Chrysanthemum yellow home. Growing chrysanthemum at home

Chrysanthemum mix care at home

The plant belongs to the so-called representatives of a short daylight hours. This means that for the onset of flowering, you need to reduce daylight hours to 8, maximum 10 hours. Such conditions in nature occur in autumn, which in parallel brings coolness.

Chrysanthemum mix feels good in a pot

From March to October, the plant requires the following care:

annual transplant for a young plant with the beginning of the growing season in a slightly larger pot with fertile neutral soil;
abundant watering as the topsoil dries up;
additional air humidification and spraying in hot weather;
top dressing every 2-3 weeks with nitrogen fertilizers in spring and potassium-phosphorus in summer;
in summer the air temperature should be at the level of 18-20 degrees, in autumn 13-16 degrees;
protection from bright sunlight. A west window is ideal.

In late spring and early summer, they begin to form a bush. To do this, pinch the tops of most shoots, but especially those that have grown intensively and spoil appearance plants. This pruning stimulates the laying of more buds, which contributes to abundant autumn flowering.

When a stable positive temperature is established, the plant can be taken outside until autumn itself or transplanted into open ground before the onset of cold weather.

How to care for chrysanthemum mix in winter

Chrysanthemum can winter both at home and in a greenhouse or even a basement. In order for the plant to rest, to gain strength for laying the kidneys, it is better to place it in the basement immediately after autumn pruning. Together with a wet clod of earth, it is placed in a pot and placed in the basement, preferably near the window, if there is one.

The ideal wintering temperature is 3 degrees. Watering is required 1-2 times a month.

During wintering on the windowsill, chrysanthemums need only light pruning after the last flowers wither. It is better to choose a window sill north, cool with moderate lighting. In this state, the plant does not completely freeze, but continues to grow slowly, therefore it requires regular watering.

Chrysanthemum as a whole does not tolerate only prolonged heat and complete drying of the soil. Otherwise, it is easy to care for her both at home and in the garden.

Temperature:
Likes a cool room around 10-15°C. At higher temperatures, chrysanthemums will bloom, but not as profusely and flowering will be short.

Lighting:
Light-loving, you need shading from direct sunlight in the hottest hours.

Watering:
Abundant - the soil should be moist all the time, but not too wet.

Air humidity:
Periodic spraying. More for hygienic reasons than for moisturizing.

Transfer:
Young plants are transplanted annually after a couple of years. Chrysanthemums are not demanding on soil and will grow well in ordinary garden soil, to which a little humus and sand are added. The only condition is that they don't like chrysanthemums acidic soils. To enhance branching, pinching and pruning are used.

Reproduction:
Cuttings, seeds and dividing the bush. Sometimes it happens that you were presented with cut chrysanthemums or you brought them from the garden, and while they stood in the water they gave roots (this applies to small-flowered varieties of chrysanthemums). In this case, after transplanting the cuttings into a pot, they should be cut at a height of up to 10-15 cm, if the plants do not grow enough, you can pinch a few branches.

Care after flowering:
Usually chrysanthemums are sold as annuals. houseplants and are discarded after flowering, but this is not at all necessary. If you want to save the plant, then after flowering, cut off all long shoots, leaving only short petioles. Place the chrysanthemum pot in a cool room with a temperature of 1-3°C. In spring, with the growth of young shoots, the plant is transferred to more warm room to a bright place, transplanted into fresh soil, and fertilizing watering begins every two weeks. It is also possible to cut cuttings from young overwintered shoots that will appear in the spring and plant them as a new plant. significant.

Compositae family. A wonderful indoor plant that can be purchased at the store blooming at any time of the year. Several chrysanthemums with different colors of flowers look especially beautiful when grouped. Chrysanthemum flowers can be simple and double, the most diverse different shades- red, pink, purple, yellowish and poisonous yellow and white. We can say that the inflorescences come in all colors except blue. When grown in pots, the plant reaches a height of 25-30 cm, for greater bushiness, the shoots are cut and pinched, and when propagated by cuttings, several cuttings are planted in one pot.

Powdery mildew - its typical signs are the formation of a grayish-white powdery coating on the leaves and peduncles. Contributes to defeat powdery mildew high humidity air.

Control measures. Spraying with a fungicide, for prevention, carry out pollination with sulfur 3-4 times during the summer.

Gray rot- Increased humidity contributes to the disease. characteristic feature- ash-gray, fluffy coating on the affected parts of the plant. Spots on leaves and stems Brown color, or the edges of the leaves turn brown. The spots increase and become covered with a fluffy coating.

Control measures. Regular airing and thinning, good lighting. Spraying with a solution of topsin-M, foundationol. Repeated treatments are carried out after 10-12 days.

Septoria is a fungal disease that chrysanthemums are susceptible to quite often. Dark brown spots with a yellowish border appear on the leaves. Gradually, they increase and cover the entire leaf, as a result of which the leaves fall off.

Control measures. Removal and burning of diseased leaves. Treatment with a systemic fungicide (foundazol). Reduce watering, airing, cancel spraying for several weeks. Excess nitrogen fertilizer contributes to the disease.

Red spider mite. Damaged chrysanthemums have pale yellow leaves. On the surface of damaged leaves form continuous whitish spots, the leaves fall prematurely. Contributes to the defeat of the red mite dry indoor air.

Control measures. Spraying with derris or systemic insecticide(fitoverm, fufan, actellik).

Thrips - high temperature and low humidity contribute to the appearance.
On the underside of the leaf, thrips lays numerous colonies, and light dots appear on the upper side of the leaf. As a result, the upper side of the leaf becomes grayish-brown with a silvery sheen.

Control measures. The plant should be sprayed, if necessary, repeatedly with insecticides (fitoverm, decis, actellik, inta-vir).

Aphids - they damage leaves from the underside, buds, tops of shoots. Damaged parts become discolored, the leaves curl, turn yellow and fall off. Chrysanthemum aphids can infect at any time of the year.

Control measures. Spraying with derris, fitoverm, decis, actellik, inta-vir. In case of severe damage, repeat the treatment.

For cultivation on the site, two varieties are used: ground chrysanthemum and Korean.

Chrysanthemum belongs to the Asteraceae family. The flowering period lasts from September to October. The leaves are sessile, green with a gray tint, the stems are erect.

The height of the shrub can vary from 30 to 110 cm. The larger the shrub, the more flowers form on it, with favorable conditions can grow up to 100 inflorescences with a terry or semi-double surface. The rhizomes of the plant are branched, with root shoots, penetrate the soil to a depth of 25 cm.

The inflorescence of the chrysanthemum is a basket, it contains a large number of individual flowers.

The diameter of the inflorescence ranges on average from 5 to 10 cm. The shape of the flowers can be varied: flat, pompon-shaped, anemone-shaped. The coloring has a wide palette, the petals can be lilac, orange, raspberry, pink, red, white, orange. From the flowers comes a pleasant light aroma.

Chrysanthemums are planted in group plantings, combining shrubs with flowers of different shades. Chrysanthemums complement those trees that change the color of the foliage with the change of season. You can also do group plantings with other perennial herbaceous plants or shrubs.

The most common species that are grown on the plots:

The crowned chrysanthemum has a simple stem, the height reaches 70 cm, although it may be less. Basal leaves do not stay on the plant for a long time. Inflorescences solitary or collected in groups. The leaves of this species can be used for food.
Chrysanthemum alpine undersized plant, average height 15 cm. The leaves are collected in a rosette, single baskets, 3 cm in diameter. The flowering period lasts from July to August. This variety looks great Alpine rollercoaster, also grown in pots, borders.
Chrysanthemum keeled - an annual species, grows from 20 to 70 cm. The stem is erect, fleshy, the leaves are also dense. Inflorescences can be double and semi-double, have a pronounced aroma. The flowering period lasts from June to September, flowering is plentiful.
Chrysanthemum shrub high view reaches 1 meter. Inflorescences are large, reach a diameter of 5 cm, double or semi-double, can be arranged singly or in groups of 2-10 pieces. Flowers tubular or reed.
Chrysanthemum mulberry (Chinese) - bred artificially, this is a low-growing plant whose height ranges from 30 to 130 cm. The shoots are erect, woody over time. Inflorescences can be simple, semi-double or double, reach an average diameter of 6 cm, emit a pleasant light aroma.
Korean chrysanthemums originated in a hybrid way. Flowers can reach a diameter of 15 cm, the maximum height of the shrub is 1 meter.

Hybrid varieties tolerate bad weather and temperature changes more easily. They are less likely to encounter diseases and pests, they are distinguished by a long flowering period.

Growing chrysanthemums from seeds does not require much time and special conditions. The plant is not whimsical and adapts well to the conditions environment. Not all types of chrysanthemums are grown from seeds, only some are suitable annual species, as well as Korean small-flowered representatives. Other types of chrysanthemums can only be obtained by dividing the bush or cuttings.

Sowing seeds annual chrysanthemums can be produced immediately open ground.

This is done in mid-May. Flowering occurs only in autumn, but if you want to see flowers as quickly as possible, then seedlings are planted, it quickly adapts to open ground and environmental conditions. seeds perennial chrysanthemums sown at the end of January. If the winter turned out to be cold, then you can wait another month and sow chrysanthemums in February. The development of seedlings is slow, so if you plant a flower in the spring or later, then flowering will come only the next year.

Soil for sowing seeds needs light, it can be prepared according to the following scheme:

1 part sand
1 part humus
2 pieces of leaf land

Expanded clay, gravel or other material that acts as a drainage must be laid at the bottom of the seedling tank. Seeds of annual species are planted to a depth of no more than 1 cm. If the chrysanthemum is Korean, then the seeds are laid out on the surface. Sprouts will appear in about 2 weeks, under favorable conditions, the period may be reduced.

While the seedlings are in containers, the ambient temperature should be within 18 degrees. The soil must always be moist, for this it is periodically sprayed from a spray bottle, preventing drying out. Water for spraying is used warm and separated. When several full-fledged leaves appear, the plants dive into separate containers.

Seedlings are transplanted into open ground in early June, and if weather permits, then a little earlier.

An open sunny place is selected on the site. Close to the surface should not pass ground water, chrysanthemums do not like stagnant water. The soil should be light and fertile. In autumn, chrysanthemums are dug up and stored until spring in a cool room. This is done only in the first year, while the plants are not yet strong. Further, shelters are not required for the winter, especially if the winter is mild.

Planting chrysanthemums in open ground

Growing chrysanthemums outdoors is very simple, but this does not mean that it does not require special conditions:

The most important thing is to choose a sunny site.
In addition, the plant should not be affected by winds and drafts, so it is desirable that the flowers block the fence or house.
For chrysanthemums, you need to find a flat area. It is connected with spring if the flowers are planted in a lowland, then there is a big risk that during the melting of the snow, the water will drain and flood the plants. The same applies to rainy weather, a large amount of water can lead to the death of plants.
Ideal for chrysanthemums is a place near hedges, it will let in light for flowers and protect from bad weather.

The flowering period of most varieties falls in the fall, so the light regime should be as natural as possible. If changes are made, then the flower petals can change their structure, the stem becomes less durable, the decorative effect of the flower is significantly reduced.

If there is not enough sun for the flower, only flower buds will form. If daylight hours are increased, then axillary buds, leaves and stems will be laid. That is, for the normal life of a plant, it needs a normal daylight hours for all processes to go on as usual.

If it is necessary for the chrysanthemum to bloom a little earlier, then during the formation of buds the plant is covered from the sun. Then flowering can begin 2 weeks earlier.

The Korean variety is the most frost-resistant among the rest.

After winter, it begins to actively develop at a temperature of 2 degrees Celsius. If autumn began early and the first frosts fell during the flowering period, then this is not scary, the chrysanthemum is able to endure temperatures down to -10 degrees. If during the autumn frosts the plant is frozen, then after a while it can thaw and continue to bloom.

Chrysanthemum tolerates heat harder than cold. AT summer days generative organs are laid, so the plant may not develop. Chrysanthemums are planted in open ground at the very beginning of summer or the end of May. You need to focus on the temperature of the soil, it should have time to warm up to 14 degrees, you need to check the temperature at a depth of at least 20 cm.

Watering chrysanthemums:

Be sure to water the plants after planting, it is especially important to do this in July.
With a lack of moisture, especially in sunny dry weather, flower buds may not form. It is from them that inflorescences will grow in the future.
If the soil does not have time to dry out due to a large amount of precipitation, then watering the plant is not necessary.
With an excess of moisture, the plant will not feel bad, but the more juicy the shoots are, the greater the risk that they will freeze during autumn frosts.

We must not forget to moisten the soil in the first weeks after planting seedlings or not yet rooted cuttings. The soil should be fertile, preferably loamy, with an acidity level of 6.5. Loamy soil retains heat well and can protect the flower during cold weather.

To grow chrysanthemums on sandy soil, during digging, peat and humus will need to be added to it. If the plants got into the garden of their greenhouse, then for the winter it is also better to store them indoors.

Chrysanthemums are often grown in room conditions. In order for chrysanthemums not only to actively develop, but also to bloom in a pot, it is necessary to choose good soil.

You can purchase a special composition in the store, or you can cook it yourself, for this the following components are used:

garden arable land
Coarse sand
Granular peat
Bone flour

If you take a bucket of soil, then bone meal will need a small pot, about 7 cm in size. The pot is not completely filled with compost, 1/3 of the container is not filled up. A sprout is placed in the mixture. It is installed so that the roots are on the surface, after which the remaining compost is poured. It is not necessary to press the ground tightly after planting, so as not to damage the roots. Also, several plants should not be close to each other.

At the initial stage of cultivation, the earth is moistened with a spray gun, it should not have time to dry out.

Sprouts immediately need to be provided with bright sunlight. The optimum temperature at night is up to 10 degrees Celsius. Within a month root system should completely fill the pot. Thereafter young plant transplanted into a larger pot. For adult plants, a slightly different soil composition will be required, it will include the following components:

1 part sand
1 part peat
3 parts garden soil
0.5 parts of dry manure
Handful of bone meal

Watering is carried out the day before transplanting chrysanthemums into new pot and right after. Until the stems of the plant are strong, they will need support. It is no longer necessary to replant the plant, only if the roots have made their way to the surface of the earth.

Chrysanthemums are not only able to decorate any interior. They are prized for their ability to be grown for cutting. For the latter, annual species are used, in particular the keeled chrysanthemum. In order for potted chrysanthemums to develop more actively, various stimulating biological products can be used. They activate the growth of dormant buds, after which the crown becomes thicker, and more buds are formed.

The following drugs are used:

Planta Miracle Growth
Bud
Zircon

It has been experimentally proven that the use of a light solution of potassium humate leads to an acceleration of plant development, an increase in the volume of the root system, an increase in the size of buds and a general decorative effect of plants.

Reproduction, care for chrysanthemums and possible problems

Chrysanthemums can be propagated in several ways:

Division of the rhizome
cuttings

Each method has its own characteristics, advantages and disadvantages. The division of the bush is carried out immediately after winter. You need to have time to do this before young shoots appear. In the evening, the shrub is dug out of the ground, and the rhizome is divided into several parts. These parts are treated with a solution of potassium permanganate and planted on the site.

The site is chosen sunny, a distance of 50 cm is kept between the bushes. Watering is carried out in a thin stream right under the root. In autumn, part of the shrub bends over and digs into the ground. Staples are used to keep the branch well. In the spring, a new shoot with its root system will begin to grow from this place. In May, the earth is removed, and a new shoot is cut off. It can be left in the same place or transplanted to a new one.

The easiest way to propagate chrysanthemum cuttings. In addition, it is guaranteed to get the same beautiful bush as an adult. The procedure is carried out in the spring and summer.

Cuttings of chrysanthemums:

After the threat of frost has passed and the ground has thawed at a depth of 30 cm, suitable mother bushes are selected, the life of which is more than 1 year.
Before breeding, flowers can be fed.
When the ambient temperature is set to +18 degrees, you will notice that new shoots with matte leaves appear on the shrub. These shoots will be used for propagation, they are pruned when they reach a length of no more than 25 cm.
In order for rooting to be successful, a plot of land with rich loosened soil is prepared, shading is done.
There should be a distance of 20 cm between the cuttings.

The first month you need to carefully monitor the soil moisture, otherwise the roots will not form. At first it may seem that the cuttings wither, but when the root system is formed, they will come to life and begin to actively grow.

Young chrysanthemums need to be fed every 2 weeks, if the weather is unfavorable or the soil is poor, then fertilizer can be applied every week.

If a large number of buds or peduncles have formed, then it is advisable to remove the smallest and weakest ones. Then the rest will be larger and brighter.

The most common diseases and pests of chrysanthemums:

Gray rot
powdery mildew
leaf rust
Root bacterial cancer
leaf spot
meadow bug
Chrysanthemum nematode

Most of the problems arise from improper care for chrysanthemum, in particular insufficient or excessive watering. High humidity can lead to diseases.

Chrysanthemum is unpretentious plant, however, to obtain a lush shrub, you must follow certain conditions. Nutritious soil and bright light are the main factors for large bright inflorescences.

Chrysanthemum in a pot: rules for caring for chrysanthemum at home

As soon as autumn comes flower shops put on public display pots with bright balls of chrysanthemums. Sometimes they are bought as a disposable bouquet and thrown away after flowering. But this is not the only option.

A potted chrysanthemum can be successfully grown on a windowsill for many years. Or, with the onset of spring, transplant it into the OG (open ground).

What chrysanthemums are grown in pots?

Suitable for growing indoors and on balconies undersized varieties Chinese or mulberry chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium). It's plentiful flowering bushes reaching a height of 15-70 cm.

They can be large-flowered (flower diameter 2.5-5 cm) or small-flowered (flower diameter up to 2.5 cm). Flowering forms of Chinese chrysanthemums can also be different. In home culture, varieties of the “Charm” form (“Red Charm”, “Yellow Charm”, etc.) are popular, blooming with a huge hat of inflorescence baskets of different colors.

Good and low "Minimum" - dwarf spray chrysanthemums, barely growing to 15-20 cm in height. But of particular interest to collectors are the so-called ampelous forms "Cascade" ("White Cascade", "Pink Cascade", etc.). In addition to the mulberry chrysanthemum in closed ground undersized varieties of Korean chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x koreanum) are cultivated.

The spherical shape of the bush is distinguished by Korean chrysanthemums of the Multiflora series, which turn into bright flowering pillows in autumn. Popular varieties "Orange Jam", "Navare", "Stella", etc.

For their resemblance to flowering balls, specimens from the multiflora series are called spherical chrysanthemums. Korean chrysanthemums bloom profusely in pots and in open ground. Indian chrysanthemums (Chrysanthemum x indicum L.) are on sale in pots. These plants in our latitudes were originally intended for growing indoors.

Their habitats: room window sills, glazed balconies, greenhouses, winter gardens. Varieties: "Altgold", "Snow Elf", "Aurora", "Helen" and others. Indian chrysanthemums are sissies, they can only grow indoors: in pots on the windowsill, in winter gardens, greenhouses However, when you buy a spray chrysanthemum in a pot, you do not need to know its type and variety. For any potted chrysanthemum, care at home is the same.

How to care for chrysanthemums at home?

Lighting, temperature

Home chrysanthemums, ideally, should be kept on western or eastern windows. The southern windows are too hot for them, direct sunlight provokes rapid fading. On the northern windows, the buds may not open at all.

As an option, a chrysanthemum at home can be put on a cool, ventilated balcony with good lighting. The best place for a home chrysanthemum is an open balcony with a western or eastern orientation. Chrysanthemum is a short daylight plant. Flowering begins when daylight hours are reduced to 8-10 hours.

And this happens in the fall. Then the coolness necessary for opening the flowers of chrysanthemums appears. Similar conditions may arise in early spring, in March-April.

If at this time you put your home chrysanthemum on a cool balcony, then repeated spring flowering is possible. Some amateur flower growers provoke the flowering of their chrysanthemums by artificially reducing daylight hours. To do this, after 8-10 required hours, the plant is covered with an impenetrable cap, for example, made of cardboard. Optimum temperatures for growing chrysanthemums: in summer - 20-23 ° C, in autumn - 15-18 ° C, in winter - 3-8 ° C .

These temperatures are ideal. With their observance, the chrysanthemum gains a large number of buds and blooms for a long time. However, nothing bad will happen if you deviate from the recommended parameters.

A chrysanthemum in a pot will survive the hot summer just fine if you put it in a ventilated, shaded place from the midday rays. It will also tolerate short-term frosts down to -3 ° C.

Watering and spraying

Chrysanthemums need good watering but without excessive moisture. In other words, making a swamp in a pot is not worth it. It is also impossible to install the pot in the pan and constantly add water there.

Water the chrysanthemum only after the top layer of the substrate has dried. Remember that any chrysanthemum, even in a pot, initially - garden plant. And it needs a lot of humidity.

Therefore, when growing chrysanthemum, care for it should include regular spraying with water. As an alternative - the installation next to the potted chrysanthemum cans of water, pallets with wet expanded clay, an air humidifier. When growing chrysanthemums in autumn open balcony where humidity is already high, additional spraying should be avoided.

How to save chrysanthemums in winter?

In winter, the chrysanthemum should rest and gain strength before the new vegetation. You can spend the wintering of the plant: 1.

In a bright, cool room (on the veranda, insulated balcony, at the entrance) After flowering, the potted chrysanthemum is cut to 10-15 cm and put in a cool, bright room for the winter. Optimum temperature 3-8°C.

The plant is rarely watered, only after the clod of earth has dried on 2 phalanges of the finger. Usually watering is required once a month. 2. At home If there is no cool room, the chrysanthemum can remain on the windowsill in the house in winter.

In this case, the plant is pruned minimally, with the obligatory removal of faded buds, dry branches and leaves. Watering is carried out in the same way as during the growing season. For wintering chrysanthemums in a pot, you should choose the lightest and most cold windowsill in the house 3.

In the basement Chrysanthemums for the winter can be placed in the basement. This method is very popular among owners of heat-loving garden chrysanthemums, therefore it is quite suitable for their potted counterparts.

To prepare the plant for wintering, all dried twigs, flowers, rotten parts are cut off. The bush is cut to a height of 10-15 cm. A couple of days before the start of wintering, the earth in a pot should be watered.

By the time the chrysanthemum is placed in the basement, the ground should be slightly damp, but not damp. 4. Outdoors Some varieties of potted chrysanthemums are able to winter in the ground with shelter. Another thing is that it is very difficult to guess whether a particular specimen will overwinter.

If you decide to take a chance, with the onset of the first frost, cut the stems of chrysanthemums to a height of 10 cm and cover them with dry earth, peat or dry leaves. From above - cover with a film or other covering material.

Home chrysanthemums: care during the growing season (spring and summer)

Already in March, the growing season should begin at home chrysanthemums. Therefore, do the following: 1. Transplant the chrysanthemum into a new soil.

The soil for chrysanthemum should be neutral, water and moisture permeable, nutritious. Highly nice results gives planting chrysanthemums in a substrate composed according to the following scheme: turf land + garden soil + sand + humus (rotted manure, chicken droppings) in a ratio of 4: 4: 1: 1. Young chrysanthemums will need to be transplanted into a new, larger pot every year .

Adult plants need an increase in "living space" every 2 years. 2. Expose the pot with the plant on a sunny windowsill, balcony, garden (at stable positive temperatures). In the spring, homemade chrysanthemum can also be planted in open ground.

During the summer it will grow, in the fall it will bloom profusely. In winter, it will have to be dug up, put back in a pot and sent for wintering in a frost-free room. Home chrysanthemum feels good outdoors 3.

start regular watering, fertilization. After transplantation, the first fertilization will be needed no earlier than 2 weeks later.

If humus was added to the substrate, you can forget about top dressing for a month. In spring and summer, the chrysanthemum will form a bush, so fertilizers with a predominance of nitrogen (N) should be selected for top dressing. Only at the end of summer, for the formation of buds, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers will be required (suitable mineral fertilizers"for blooming"). 4.

Start shaping. When purchased, a homemade chrysanthemum usually looks like a flowering cloud of a spherical shape. In order for it to be just as decorative in the future, it will have to be shaped. New growing shoots are pinched several times.

In most cases, 2-3 pinches are enough during the spring-summer period. Pinching, firstly, prevents the branches from growing beyond the formed “ball”, and, secondly, it stimulates the growth of new shoots on which flower buds will be laid. Pinching for chrysanthemums is a useful thing.

But don't get carried away with it! Remember that after the last pinching, the chrysanthemum will bloom in at least 2 weeks. If the flowering period of your chrysanthemum begins in early September, the last pinching should be carried out no later than mid-August. The formed chrysanthemum bush looks like a blooming ball

Why doesn't the chrysanthemum bloom?

Any chrysanthemum should bloom in autumn. This law can be violated only if there are errors in caring for the plant. The most common of them are:

Poor lighting ( low intensity light rays, too long (more than 10 hours) or, conversely, short (less than 7 hours) daylight hours). Late pruning (pinching). Poor soil and lack of top dressing (containing phosphorus and potassium).

Eliminate the errors found and your potted chrysanthemum will surely thank you with lush and long flowering.

Buying and maintaining a potted chrysanthemum

When buying a potted chrysanthemum, carefully inspect the plant for diseases and pests. The plant must be absolutely healthy, otherwise an infected chrysanthemum will give you a lot of trouble and may even die.

Put the purchased plant separately from other plants for a 2-4-week "quarantine". Treat the chrysanthemum with a suitable fungicide if disease occurs.

If pests appear on the chrysanthemum (soil flies, aphids, thrips, etc.), then the soil layer and all the leaves of the plant must be treated with an insecticide (for example, actellik, karbofos, topaz, decis, etc.). In an insecticide diluted with water according to the instructions, I add a little washing powder(as a result, a slightly sticky solution is obtained - judging by the sensations of wet fingers).

I spray it all over the plant with a spray bottle. When the solution dries on the plant, the applied agent continues to act for a long time without harming it. Chrysanthemums are less active than indoor roses, are affected spider mite(anyway, my potted chrysanthemums growing next to home rose, did not become infected with this type of living creature from it). An attack of pests on chrysanthemums and other indoor plants is likely if you bring bouquets of flowers home or keep an unprotected window open in the warm season (without a fine mesh from insects). After the end of quarantine, a healthy chrysanthemum can be transplanted and place with other plants.

To prolong the flowering of chrysanthemums and preserve decorative look trim wilted flowers in a timely manner and pluck out yellowing leaves. My experience of growing potted chrysanthemums shows that when proper care this wonderful plant grows well and blooms for a long time at home, including pleases us with flowers in late autumn and winter.

indoor chrysanthemum

There is hardly a person who has not heard of the chrysanthemum. She is very popular. Like some representatives garden flowers, such as, for example, a rose, a chrysanthemum can be grown both in the garden and at home, as a houseplant.

In the form of a potted flower, it has many varieties. Chrysanthemum is fully adapted to life at home. That is what I would like to talk about. Indoor chrysanthemum. Cultivation and care Home chrysanthemum is not very large in size.

This is due to the fact that it is grown artificially in greenhouses, where, with the help of special preparations, its growth is stopped to give it a decorative look. overall dimensions, comparable with the garden. This is precisely due to ignorance of the method of growing such an ornamental plant.

Let's figure out how to choose a chrysanthemum when buying. First of all, you need to carefully examine it, make sure that the plant is strong, dense, the leaves are well developed, insects do not crawl along the trunk. Like any plant, a chrysanthemum, bringing it home, should be quarantined for a couple of days.

This will help her adapt to your home environment. Do not get infected from other plants and do not affect the development of your already established flowers. How to care for chrysanthemum? Chrysanthemum prefers cool temperatures and short sunny days.

The ideal temperature for greater preservation of the inflorescence is 15 degrees. Acceptable, but the maximum is 18 degrees. If the temperature is higher, then often the manifestation of yellowing of the leaves, drying of the bud, the rapid end of the flowering period.

more prone to such negative consequences increase in temperature of recently purchased and not yet established plants. Despite the fact that the chrysanthemum needs a short daylight hours, about 8 hours, it is light-loving plant. Therefore, you should not hide it in the shade.

But also protect from direct sunlight. Chrysanthemum loves moisture, so do not allow the soil and, therefore, the root system to dry out. Maintain constant moisture. Spray it on top occasionally.

During flowering, it should be fertilized with special food for flowering plants. Like any other plant, chrysanthemum should be transplanted according to the traditional scheme. If the flower is still young, then once a year, if an adult, then in a year.

In principle, there are no special preferences for the earth, the main thing is that it be acidic. You can use ordinary garden soil, and to make it softer and looser, add peat and humus to it. Reproduction of chrysanthemums occurs in various ways.

It can be cuttings, dividing the bush, seeds. The most simple and unpretentious are the first two. When planting, it is better to place from three to five cuttings in one pot. After flowering, the chrysanthemum should be cut off and wintered at a low temperature of +2 to -3 degrees. Where to find such a place? Everything is simple.

An ordinary cellar may come up. With the advent of spring, when the chrysanthemum begins to sprout, it must be transplanted into fresh soil. If the flower is no longer young, then this is not a mandatory requirement, but a desirable one.

When the plant is well developed, you can collect cuttings from it for subsequent propagation. Some care tips In order for your chrysanthemum to be lush, it must be cut and pinched. This is done during the entire period of active growth.

If you neglect this, and cut it only in the spring, then you will get a flower on an elongated stem, lack of splendor and an unattractive appearance. If you want the plant to bloom longer, you need to remove the yellowed leaves and cut off the inflorescences that have already become obsolete. When it becomes quite warm outside, it is recommended to take the chrysanthemum to fresh air. In addition, you can plant a flower in garden soil and leave to grow there until the onset of cold weather, then transplant back into a pot with a clod of the soil in which it grew.

This is what flower growers do with geraniums. The same procedure has a beneficial effect on the chrysanthemum. If you wish, you can transplant the garden chrysanthemum into a pot for the winter so that it will delight you with its flowering at home during the cold weather. Chrysanthemums decorate our gardens with bright colors from July to late autumn when most other plants have long since finished flowering. Despite rain, wind and cold, a mass of bright flowers with a cold, bitter aroma keeps on chrysanthemum bushes until late autumn. Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Joe Lewis The Latin name for chrysanthemum is hrysanthemum, derived from the Greek. ? - "golden-colored"; due to the yellow color of the inflorescences. Chrysanthemum is a genus of annual and perennial herbaceous plants families Astrovye, or Compositae, close to the genera Yarrow and Tansy, where many types of chrysanthemums often move.

The shoots are naked or pubescent. The leaves are arranged in the next order, simple, entire, serrated, notched or dissected, different in size and shape, pubescent and not, mostly light green. The flowers are small, collected in a basket, in some species large, consisting, as a rule, from median tubular yellow flowers and reed marginal, variously colored and usually arranged in a single row; many hybrid varieties they are arranged in many rows and form the so-called "terry" inflorescence. The fruit is an achene.

Chrysanthemum garden, or Chrysanthemum Chinese. © jfh686 garden chrysanthemums differ in height and shape of the bush, flowering time, color, doubleness, size and type of inflorescences. Some garden chrysanthemums grow up to 1.5 m, while others reach only 35-40 cm.

The color range of garden chrysanthemums is very extensive: white, greenish, pink, raspberry, burgundy, yellow, red and copper colors are presented in chrysanthemums in the widest range. Chrysanthemums come from Far East and known to man since ancient times. The Chinese were the first to cultivate these amazing plants in pots almost 3,000 years ago.

It is believed that the spider-like varieties of chrysanthemums were the first to be domesticated, which were used in cooking and medicine, and later began to be grown for beauty. And to this day, chrysanthemums for the Chinese are not only magical plant of ancient beliefs, but also a popular spice and a favorite decoration of premises. Together with Buddhism, the tradition of growing large-flowered chrysanthemums in pots, the Japanese call them kotengiku, or ancient chrysanthemums.

However, like many other things, the cultivation of chrysanthemums in Japan has acquired its own unique culture and sophisticated methods. The Japanese attach special importance to chrysanthemums. different colors and the rituals of their presentation. Ancient types of chrysanthemums are preserved in their original form; such plants are still grown in gardens at temples. Chrysanthemum is a favorite flower of the Japanese, a symbol of longevity, as well as an important part of their national culture and the emblem of the country. Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Dave Crosby

Peculiarities

Lighting: The plant is photophilous, you need shading from direct sunlight in the hottest hours. Watering: Abundant - the soil should be moist all the time, but not too wet. reproduction: usually by cuttings, seeds and dividing the bush.

Air humidity: Prefers occasional spraying. (More for hygiene reasons than for hydration.) Transfer: Young plants are transplanted annually, old ones - after a couple of years. Mostly the plant is transplanted in the spring.

Chrysanthemums are not demanding on soil and will grow well in ordinary garden soil, to which a little humus and sand are added. The only condition is that chrysanthemums do not like acidic soils. To enhance branching, pinching and pruning are used. top dressing: spring-summer - 1 time in 2 weeks with mineral and organic fertilizers, winter-autumn - without top dressing. Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Waqas Aleem

Planting and reproduction

Chrysanthemums are thermophilic, so it is important not to make a mistake with the landing site in the garden. To grow chrysanthemums, you need an elevated sunny place and well-permeable, slightly acidic or neutral drained soil. good growth and beautiful flowering need enough nutrients, therefore, on rich soils, chrysanthemums grow very well.

If the soil in your garden is infertile and dense, then before planting the cuttings, it is advisable to add rotted manure, compost, peat. Before planting chrysanthemums, apply complex fertilizer or rotted manure to the soil. It is better to plant plants not in holes, but in a trench.

The distance between the planted cuttings is from 30 to 50 cm, it depends on the characteristics of the variety. After planting the cuttings of chrysanthemums, we spill the earth in the trench with a Kornevin solution (1 g per liter of water). This drug promotes the formation of a powerful root system in the cuttings.

This means that the feeding area of a young chrysanthemum will increase, and as a result, a strong plant will develop. Having planted chrysanthemum cuttings in the garden, it is necessary to cover the seedlings with covering material. It creates a favorable microclimate: it protects young chrysanthemums from hot rays, and warms them during a cold snap. Chrysanthemums easily propagate by dividing the bush.

In the spring when return frosts end, dig up a bush and divide the young shoots. We immediately plant shoots with roots in the garden and water them. Chrysanthemums can also be propagated by cuttings.

In the spring, cut green shoots 10-15 cm long, treat the lower part with Kornevin, plant and cover with newspapers (newspapers retain moisture well). Then you need to water the cuttings of chrysanthemums as the soil dries. Soon the cuttings take root. Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Costel Slincu

Watering and feeding chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemum is very moisture-loving, so the plant must be watered abundantly before flowering. It is better to water chrysanthemums with soft water - rain or settled (you can add 2-3 drops of ammonia to the water).

With a lack of water, the stems of chrysanthemums coarsen, and the leaves and flowers look less attractive. The chrysanthemum loves to “eat” organic matter and is responsive to mineral nutrition. To feed chrysanthemums, you can purchase various ready-made mineral fertilizers.

At the beginning of growing young chrysanthemums, it is better to use nitrogen fertilizers to build green mass, and then phosphorus-potassium for better flowering. Water chrysanthemums with top dressing only at the root, remember: mineral fertilizers that have fallen on the leaves will cause a burn. Nitrogen affects the height of plants, the number of shoots, the color intensity of leaves and inflorescences, and the size of the flower. A lack of nitrogen causes chlorosis (yellowing) of the leaves, while small, nondescript inflorescences form in the chrysanthemum.

To build up the green mass of chrysanthemums, you can use ammonia nitrogen, and nitrates at the stage of bud formation. When the chrysanthemum forms a strong bush and reaches the budding phase, we switch to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Phosphorus contributes to the abundant and prolonged flowering of chrysanthemums, increases their immunity.

You can add phosphorus to the soil at the rate of 50 g per 1 m2 of area, as well as bone meal. Potassium also has a positive effect on the health of chrysanthemums and the beauty of their inflorescences. the best potash fertilizer potassium sulphate is considered to be used for growing profusely flowering chrysanthemums. When developing young chrysanthemums, it is especially important to provide them with good nutrition in the first 6-8 weeks, when the vegetative mass is actively growing.

At this time, feed chrysanthemums with fertilizers with the formula N: P: K - 2: 1: 1, using ready-made complex fertilizers with microelements. It is very good to use mullein, only burned out, for feeding chrysanthemums, you can also use chicken droppings. But remember the rule: better plant do not feed it than burn it. In a large barrel, put 2 buckets of mullein or 1 bucket of chicken manure, fill everything with water, stir and leave for three days - a valuable concentrated fertilizer is ready.

To feed plants, you can make a solution: take one liter of the resulting concentrated infusion and add ten liters of water to it. Fertilize the chrysanthemums in the garden with this diluted infusion, adding one liter of solution under each plant. Do fertilizing watering of chrysanthemums only at the root and, which is also important, already on moist soil. Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Guilhem Vellut

Forcing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums lend themselves perfectly to forcing (forcing is a technique by which a plant leaves a state of dormancy, begins to grow and blooms at an unusual time). Chrysanthemum is a short-day culture, that is, the formation of flowers in this plant depends on the duration of the light period. Experts have established that bookmark flower buds in the inflorescence of chrysanthemum occurs in two stages. First, with a day length of not more than 14.5 hours, a receptacle is formed.

The longer this period, the larger it becomes, and the larger the diameter of the basket inflorescence. Then the chrysanthemum flowers begin to form. This process proceeds most intensively when the day length is less than 13.5 hours. Sufficiently high-quality cutting of chrysanthemums can be obtained if you immediately set the day length for plants to 10 hours. Different varieties chrysanthemums have a different reaction to the duration of illumination, and therefore they bloom in different ways: after 6-15 weeks from the beginning of a short day. Particularly suitable for forcing chrysanthemum varieties from the Branchy group. day (more than 14.5 hours) for the development required amount leaves and internodes. Then, for 6-12 weeks, the growth of chrysanthemums takes place with a short day (less than 13 hours). New Year, by March 8, by September 1! Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Rosewoman

reproduction

For planting, chrysanthemum seedlings, chrysanthemum seeds and cuttings are used - depending on the variety. Sowing of chrysanthemums, which are propagated by seeds, is carried out in May directly into the ground in holes of 3-4 pieces at a distance of 25 cm. In this case, flowering will be in early August.

For earlier flowering, the seeds should be sown in March in a heated room, when the seedlings grow up, they dive into pots and planted in the ground at the end of May. In this case, flowering occurs at the end of June. To obtain cuttings in the fall after the flowering of chrysanthemums, the best specimens can be left for the winter as mother plants.

Faded shoots are cut off near the ground in a pot, as they die off after flowering. Mother plants are used for cuttings. Cut chrysanthemums can be left in pots in cool rooms. It is necessary to water a little, so that the plants do not fade.

Cuttings for planting are taken in March only from the apical offspring emerging from the ground from the roots. You should not take cuttings from shoots on old stems. Cuttings are made in bowls or in boxes. Humus with peat is poured from below, and a layer of sand of 2-3 cm is poured on top.

The cuttings are cut with a sharp knife to make a smooth cut, which is best done under the leaf node. In this case, rooting is better. Chrysanthemums are planted shallowly in the sand, the cuttings are sprayed and covered with a glass cap.

The best temperature for rooting is 13-15 degrees. After rooting (after 18-20 days), the glass is removed, young plants are planted in small pots and placed in a cool, well-ventilated room. all year round. When buying seedlings, you need to pay attention not only to the fact that the plant is healthy, but also to the number of buds in which the tips of unopened flowers of the baskets should be visible. If the plant is bought with green buds, the flowers from these buds may not open. Garden chrysanthemum, or Chinese chrysanthemum. © Ching

Diseases and pests

Diseases of chrysanthemums are mainly associated with care errors: insufficient watering or too high air temperature in which the plant is contained. Of the pests, chrysanthemums are affected by aphids and spider mites. To kill aphids, the plant is washed with soapy water.

The treatment should be repeated every 7-10 days. Treatment of plants with pyrethrum gives good results. The solution is prepared as follows: 200 gr. pyrethrum powder insist in 10 liters of water for 12 hours, then take 50 ml. infusion, diluted in 10 liters of water and add 50 gr. soap. Water extract of garlic is very effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites and other pests.

Take 50 gr. crush the garlic in a mortar and pour a glass cold water. After 15-20 minutes, strain the mass and dilute with water, bringing the volume to 1 liter. This solution should be taken 1.5 cups per bucket of water and in the evening or in cloudy weather wash plants.