Spider mite protection. Spider mite: how to fight, remedies and preparations

Spider mites attack fruit trees, bushes, indoor flowers and horticultural crops. Small insects penetrate greenhouses and greenhouses, completely destroying the crop. It is not easy to notice yellowish or brownish pests that hide in the crevices of doorways and windows. Destroy spider mite, resistant to chemicals and most folk remedies, is even more difficult, but possible if you make every effort.

Fight against garbage

Females that have entered the greenhouse bury in the ground or the remains of tops that summer residents forgot or did not want to endure. Spider mites hibernate until early spring, and then leave the mountains of garbage and pounce on young shoots of tomatoes and cucumbers. It is not in vain that experienced greenhouse owners strongly recommend taking out everything superfluous from the premises: cut branches and leaves, leftover vegetables and old earth. This reduces the likelihood that a spider mite will settle in the greenhouse.

The main symptom of infection is small dots on the leaves, around which whitish, yellow or brown spots. A plant attacked by insects loses juice and energy, photosynthesis slows down. Ordinary water will help get rid of insects and return the beds to life. The tick breeds in a dry and warm climate, so the humidity level is increased to 80-85% in the greenhouse.

Plentifully water the ground around the bushes, spray the leaves from the spray bottle. Install automatic irrigation systems around the perimeter of the greenhouse.

Ticks that have not managed to capture cucumbers and tomatoes can temporarily settle on weeds. Pests are omnivores, so they will not die of hunger. The beds are carefully examined, excess grass is pulled out and leaves covered with spots and bite marks are cut off. Garbage is taken out of the greenhouse and burned. Destroy and weak bushes on which the web appeared. This means that the plant was captured by pests, and it is almost impossible to save it.

Total disinfection

Ticks hide from moisture and chemicals in window frames ah and doorways. The greenhouse in which the insects are wound up is disinfected. Cabinets, racks, tools and pots are taken outside and soaked in a dark purple solution of potassium permanganate for 1–1.5 hours.

The frame is wiped with a soft sponge dipped in a solution of laundry or green potassium soap. The remains of the product are removed with a clean damp cloth. If the spider mite has practically destroyed the crop, and the owner of the greenhouse has nothing to lose, it is recommended to treat the body with chlorine or blue vitriol. Means destroy infections and insects, but can leave burns on the leaves.

A solution from spider mites is prepared from 400 g of bleach, which is infused in 10 liters of water. The components are mixed in a plastic bucket and left for 5 hours. Drain the top layer of the solution. The resulting preparation is diluted clean water. Wet a sponge in the product and apply it to the wooden or metal parts of the greenhouse.

The greenhouse is disinfected with copper sulphate. 150 g of a chemical preparation is dissolved in a bucket of water. Pour the agent into plastic bottle with a spray gun and spray the body with walls.

The greenhouse treated with disinfectants is closed for a day, and then thoroughly ventilated. Plants after the procedure are watered abundantly to wash off the remnants of chlorine or copper sulfate from the leaves.

Bushes that have withered after disinfection are not thrown away. The bed will come to life in 2-3 weeks. It is only necessary to regularly water the land and apply phosphorus fertilizers.

Folk methods

Warm crops on which the ovary has formed cannot be treated with chemicals, otherwise ripe fruits will have to be thrown away. Insecticides are being replaced with natural recipes designed to kill spider mites.

Dichlorvos and turpentine
Infected bushes are sprayed with medical alcohol. A bottle of the ethyl component is diluted with the same amount of distilled water. The blank is poured into a container with a spray bottle, applied to the leaves and stems of plants.

If greenhouse crops do not tolerate alcohol well, you can try turpentine. The product is poured into glasses or glass jars. Other gardeners soak old rags with turpentine and hang them on wooden sticks next to the bushes.

Containers with the substance are placed near cucumbers or tomatoes infected with spider mites, and covered with plastic bags or garbage bags. The cellophane cover is tied up so that the evaporation does not evaporate, and left for 4 hours.

The method destroys adults, but insect eggs remain. The treatment is repeated after 7-10 days. The smell of turpentine disappears quickly, in just 3-4 days.

If the ovary is just beginning to form, the spider mite is destroyed by Dichlorvos. They put garbage bags on the bushes and spray the drug inside. The bags are tied and removed after 3 hours. After treatment, the remains of Dichlorvos are washed off with plain water.

Plants from spider mites
Insects are destroyed with concentrated herbal decoctions. Natural preparations are safe, but get rid of spider mites for 1-2 weeks, so disinfection with infusions is carried out every 8-10 days.

Garden crops are sprayed with a decoction of cyclamen. In a saucepan, mix 5 liters of water and 0.5 kg of chopped roots. Cook until the plant is soft. Separate the liquid from the cake with gauze. Spray the stems and leaves, you can water the ground around the roots.

Spider mite colonies will destroy the dandelion. Collect 500 g of fresh roots, wash, chop in a blender. Pour the mass with a bucket of cold water. After 4 hours, drain the finished infusion and process the beds.

Calendula is an alternative to dandelion. Finely chop 5 kg of fresh grass, combine with a bucket of plain water. Infuse the remedy for a tick for 5 days, hiding the container with the remedy in a dark place. Adults die after the first treatment, and the second and third are needed to consolidate the result.

Insects will be destroyed by dried yarrow. The plant is collected independently or bought at a pharmacy. A bucket of water is heated on the stove, 800 g of grass are added to it. The container is removed, covered and infused for 3 days. The finished product is filtered and poured into a spray bottle. Apply the infusion to the leaves, stems and roots. Water the soil around the bushes.

Horsetail destroys spider mites and protects weakened greenhouse crops from fungal diseases. The infusion is prepared from 1 kg of fresh raw materials. The leaves are finely chopped, poured with a bucket of warm water. The remedy is prepared for a day, and then damaged and healthy bushes are sprayed with infusion.

An infusion of basil or cow parsnip, as well as freshly squeezed juice from a creeping tenacious, can scare away insects. Part of the workpiece is diluted with three parts of distilled water.

One of the most effective decoctions is made from henbane. But the plant is poisonous, so raw materials cannot be taken with bare hands only with rubber gloves. There are two cooking methods:

Pour a bucket of water 1 kg of crushed henbane. After a day, strain and spray the beds abundantly.
Chop 2 kg of the plant, pour a small amount of water. Boil over low heat, separate the liquid with cheesecloth. Dilute the workpiece with 10 liters of water.

The effectiveness of the product will increase laundry soap. A bucket of solution is mixed with 20–30 g of the grated component.

Garlic and onion
Spider mites are repelled by vegetables with a pungent odor. For example, grated horseradish root. The product is washed, passed through a meat grinder and insisted in a bucket of cold water for a day.

Insects do not tolerate the aroma of garlic. A repellent solution is prepared from 7 cleaned heads. Grind spice, pour into a bucket of water and mix thoroughly. The solution can be used after 5 minutes. A brush is dipped into the water and the product is sprayed throughout the greenhouse.

Spider mites are repelled with onion peel. Soak 500 g of the product in 10 liters of boiling water and infuse for 20-24 hours. The solution is applied to the plants, watered with the soil.

Synthetic drugs

Folk remedies work at the initial stage of infection with ticks. If the pests have decorated the bushes with cobwebs, you can not do without chemicals. Greenhouse owners will have to choose between throwing away a batch of crops or letting insects destroy all the plants.

Fitoverm;
Aktofit;
Kleshchevit;
Agravertin;
Akarin;
Vertimek.

Actellik and Bi-58 are the most powerful and aggressive drugs. Means are used if other formulations were powerless.

The beds are watered abundantly before processing to protect against burns and severe stress. Then a solution is prepared from the selected preparation and 50 g of green potassium soap is added to it. It will increase the effectiveness of the tool.

A synthetic preparation is applied to the bushes and the ground around them, but they try not to get the insecticide on the root system. Concentrated solutions can cause plant death.

After the first treatment, adult insects die, but eggs remain. Disinfection is repeated after 1.5 weeks, but a different agent is used. Spider mite quickly adapts to insecticides. Insects will completely disappear after 3-4 treatments.

Greenhouse crops can be treated twice with insecticides and then applied folk remedies. Ripe fruits that have been exposed to chemicals are discarded. It is forbidden to sell or eat such vegetables and berries.

In autumn, after harvesting, the soil in the greenhouse is changed and dug up. The room is disinfected with sulfur bombs, which destroy infections, fungal spores and insects.

Destroying spider mites is difficult. They get used to synthetic and natural preparations and multiply rapidly. It is much easier to prevent the appearance of insects: remove debris and weeds, disinfect window frames and doorways, fumigate the greenhouse with sulfur bombs. If you follow all the recommendations and take care of the plants, the spider mite will not have a single chance.

Video: how to deal with spider mites

In July the main headache greenhouses are called in for gardeners: spider mites annoy cucumbers, phytophthora annoys tomatoes, rot appears on peppers. Galina Kizima tells how not to lose and even increase the yield of pepper, cucumbers and tomatoes in the greenhouse.

The main attack on cucumbers is that a spider mite settles on them. It's hard to see without a magnifying glass. It settles on the underside of the leaves, while the leaves first brighten. Many take such a brightening for a lack of nitrogen and intensively water the cucumbers with an infusion of manure or weeds. However, this usually does not help, and the leaves begin to die off anyway.

Processing from phytophthora on tomatoes in a greenhouse

If you have not done prophylaxis against late blight, then it will definitely start first on potatoes, and then on tomatoes. Late blight on potatoes is easier to deal with. It is necessary to spray the tops of potatoes with any preparation containing copper. It is easiest to use HOM (copper oxychloride) or oxychom, polychum, since they are easily diluted in cold water directly in the watering can according to package directions.

Spray tomatoes in open ground in the same way. Remember that fruits sprayed with copper should not be eaten for about 3 weeks.

If you grow tomatoes in a greenhouse, then copper preparations should not be used, since you constantly use everything that grows in it for food. In this case, use ordinary iodine (10 ml vial per 10 liters of water).

First, cut off the leaves affected by late blight (they have black spots on them, surrounded by a large yellow spot), and then spray all remaining leaves and fruits. Repeat spraying after 3 days.

Use the remaining solution to control powdery mildew on blackcurrants. For better adhesion, add a little soap to the solution. Spank the bushes with a broom from top to bottom. With conventional spraying, the solution rolls off the leaves. Repeat the procedure after 3 days.

In addition, against phytophthora and powdery mildew preparations "Zircon" (6 drops per 1 liter of water) and the spore mass of bacteria "Fitosporin" (sold in sachets, not in plates) are excellent help.

In order to protect the fruits of tomatoes from late blight, about a week after spraying the leaves and fruits with iodine, spray only the fruits with a solution of calcium chloride. Buy calcium chloride at the pharmacy (usually they sell a 10% solution in 200 ml bottles). It must be diluted with water 3 times, that is, add another 500–600 ml of water to it.

Spraying should begin with the stalk and the remaining sepals of the flowers. It is from them that phytophthora gets to the fetus. Please note: when tomatoes are infected with phytophthora, the sepals and stalks of the fruit are usually yellow-brown. Do not leave unset flowers. Remove them immediately as they are also a source of infection.

Take pictures regularly lower leaves under pouring brushes. By mid-July, tomatoes should only have upper leaves- above the last pouring brush.

How to speed up the ripening of tomatoes

At the very end of July, make the topping of tomatoes. Tear off all the tops of tall varieties and hybrids to stop their further growth and direct all the forces of the plant to growing already started fruits.

At undersized tomatoes toppings are not done, since they end their growth with a flower brush and do not grow higher. At this time, all buds and flowers should be cut off from all tomatoes so that the plant does not waste its strength on them in vain. The fruits of them do not have time to grow even the size of a hazelnut. It is better to let the plant grow the fruits that have already begun.

For faster fruit ripening, in addition, it is necessary to create a stressful situation for the plant: to sharply reduce the influx of nutrients. To do this, it is enough to cut off part of the roots - strongly pull each plant vertically upwards, taking it by the lower part of the stem with your hand. Dramatically reduce watering and stop any top dressing. AT stressful situation any plant tends to leave offspring as soon as possible, so it begins accelerated maturation fruits.

Diseases of pepper in the greenhouse

At the end of July, cold nights usually begin, which the pepper does not like very much and sheds ovaries and even fruits. If at the same time it is rainy weather, then rot appears on the fruits at the point of attachment of the stalk, and the fruits fall off.

At the same time in such weather often appears white coating on the stems - stem rot. If urgent measures are not taken, then the rot will ring the stem, and it will wither. As soon as you notice that a plaque has appeared, immediately wipe this place with a dry cloth, then cover it with a gruel of chalk and potassium permanganate, or wash the infected area with a cloth soaked in a solution of potassium permanganate and dust it well with ash.

When fruit rot appears on peppers, tomatoes, eggplants, water the plants with a solution of calcium nitrate (2 tablespoons per bucket). Add 1 tablespoon of chlorine-free potassium to the solution. In addition, spray the plants with "Zircon" or a solution of the spore mass of "Fitosporin".

The same measures should be taken if blossom end rot occurs on the fruit: first a spot appears on the top of the fruit, then it begins to rot. This usually occurs in dry and hot weather with insufficient watering. From the tops of ripening fruits, an outflow of moisture, potassium and calcium begins to the growth point of the plant. The fetal tissue is dehydrated and then destroyed. For this reason, further growth should also be stopped in July, for which they pinch the top not only of tomatoes, but also of peppers and eggplants.

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Discussion

Comment on the article "Phytophthora on tomatoes, spider mites on cucumbers: how to fight?"

Are you fighting late blight tomatoes? Who has what methods of dealing with phytophthora? last year I have everything How to grow tomatoes and cucumbers in one greenhouse. Transplanting tomato seedlings in a greenhouse. Tomatoes in the greenhouse: how to deal with late blight and other tomato diseases.

Discussion

There were 4 beds on the street different varieties. They fought, sprayed everything, copper sticks inserted everything to no purpose. August 1 3 beds in the trash. And the rest survived and are still growing untreated. As it turned out, the seedlings of the mother-in-law, and when she raised her at home, she spilled a solution from phytophthora. How sclerosis is not recognized. The conclusion must be processed seedlings and then you can forget.

We are fighting. Every year I treat my greenhouse (if we are talking about it), with phytosporin and in May I plant seedlings with watering them in the holes. Watering drip, morning, cold water. Mandatory ventilation.

Tomatoes in the greenhouse: tomato diseases, top dressing of tomatoes. How to deal with late blight on potatoes and tomatoes. If shoots of peppers, tomatoes and eggplants have already appeared, then do not forget that they must be fed as soon as they turn around ...

Discussion

Every year I plant tomatoes without shelter in open ground and ripen perfectly, you just need to choose the right varieties and planting site

So what did you like? Landing only? Here's to seeing the end result!
Have you seen the pepilats?

Tomatoes in the greenhouse: tomato diseases, top dressing of tomatoes. How to deal with late blight on potatoes and tomatoes. How to treat powdery mildew and phytophthora. If shoots of peppers, tomatoes and eggplants have already appeared, then do not forget that their top dressing ...

Discussion

I have outdoor tomatoes. I do it on the advice of Ganichkina: until July 15, you need to spray three times for illnesses (the drugs are different, I take Hom or Oksikh)
for example, June 12, 26 and July 10 (with a break of 2 weeks)

There is a drug ORdan (from phytophthora). I bought it for myself, and in turn I read on the forum when using it, they shot tomatoes in the open field as early as October last year.
Instead of fertilizers, you can use an infusion of herbs: goutweed, dandelions, nettles. Insist 2 weeks.
The smell is special :)

Tomatoes in the greenhouse: how to deal with late blight and other tomato diseases. Phytophthora on tomatoes, spider mites on cucumbers: how to fight? Mushrooms in the lawn. Weed control.

Discussion

I remove everything unnecessary with a 1: 1 solution (vinegar 70% + water) and spray it with a spray. So I managed to get rid of the overgrowth of plums, grass with white flowers ....

We have a stationary greenhouse, my husband made a film out of window frames and the roof was film, it was more than 15 years old. I plant in it: cucumbers, tomatoes, peppers, bakl-azhans, watermelons and melons. one half, we will change.

Tomatoes in the greenhouse: how to deal with late blight and other tomato diseases. How to plant tomatoes in the same greenhouse with cucumbers. How to mulch the ground in a greenhouse under tomatoes. If you can’t pull two greenhouses in any way, then you can plant cucumbers under Our first ...

Discussion

1) Better not. They need _really_ different conditions. Cucumbers love moist air and "breathing soil, they need frequent and mild watering, better by sprinkling - and tomatoes love dry air and a lot of water to the roots, they need rare and plentiful watering, it is better right under the root. If it is not possible to put a second greenhouse, it is better to plant cucumbers under arcs or even in open ground.
2) If this is not a "real" greenhouse with heating, but a film greenhouse, then you can not change it at all.
3) I do not process. Well, it won't hurt to spill potassium permanganate ... or smoke a sulfur bomb ...
4) This, probably, is about cucumbers. I don’t put a barrel, but a bucket :)
On the one hand, the air humidity rises (see point 1), on the other hand, the water is warmed up and subsequently used for irrigation. Cucumbers love to be watered warm water. Tomatoes do not need such a barrel at all.

1. Is it possible to plant cucumbers, tomatoes and greens in one greenhouse?
It is forbidden. But everyone is planted. And me too :)) In fact, they just need different mode. Dryness and ventilation for tomatoes, and moisture and warmth for cucumbers. I plant from different sides (greenhouse 8 meters) and try to create my own microclimate on each side. And greens in general do not care where to plant - it is better in the garden.
2. How often do you need to change the soil in the greenhouse?
Every year. She is exhausted. But I just add a layer of purchased land and fertilizer.
3. Is it necessary to cultivate the land with something specific?
Necessarily. fertilize all summer period every 10 days. And periodically do prevention from pests and diseases. And in the spring, before planting seedlings, I set fire to sulfur bombs in the greenhouse to kill everyone who wintered there.
4. I also heard about a barrel of water, they say it is necessary to put it inside, why???
I do, but it's not required. Firstly, everything in the greenhouse must be watered with warm water (I have 7 degrees from the tap, I can’t water it, I have to warm it up in a barrel). Secondly, this barrel heats up during the day, and at night it gives off heat and there is not such a big difference between day and night temperatures. These fluctuations are very harmful. Thirdly, it creates humidity, which is often lacking in a greenhouse.

Spider mite on tomato seedlings can quickly lead plants to death.

Spider mite on tomato seedlings

signs

The tick on tomatoes is noticeable, it is easy to detect. The main sign of pest infestation is a noticeable drying of the leaves, up to the death. The following signs can be distinguished that a tick lives on tomato seedlings:

The presence of small white dots on reverse side leaves, on stem;
The leaves of the plant dry, despite the regularity of watering;
There may be a soft white cobweb on seedlings;
The absence of flowers;
Measures to combat drought are not producing results.

Signs of a tick on tomatoes

The reasons

The appearance of mites, as a rule, contributes to the infection of the soil. The main condition for their development is low humidity.

A seedling affected by a pest looks as if it has deteriorated from drought or exposure to sun rays. Cause appearance plants really lies in aridity. The fact is that the spider mite is especially common in those regions where there is low humidity. These pests are afraid of water and feel great in a dry and warm place, whether it is open ground or a greenhouse.

What to do if a web appears on tomatoes

How to deal with spider mites

You can fight a tick on tomatoes not only with proven folk methods, but also with the help of proven chemicals. Acaricides against pests vary in composition and cost. In general, some popular ones can be distinguished:

Despite the potential threat to seedlings from spider mites, getting rid of this pest is not difficult. However, it is necessary to follow the instructions, follow all recommendations for the maintenance of seedlings, as well as preventive measures.

Tomato pests can destroy all plantings, both in the greenhouse and in the open field. All tomatoes grown by farmers and amateur gardeners are breeding hybrids. Solanaceous crops, once brought to the new environment from South America, lack natural defense mechanisms against fungi and insects. Therefore, planting tomatoes require constant care. The most common tomato pests that need to be fought constantly are the whitefly, bugs (rust and spider), Colorado potato beetle, bear, nematode, wireworm, nibbling scoop and aphids.

whitefly

Some tomato pests destroy plantings in two to three weeks. The whitefly belongs to this group. It is a small white butterfly that looks like a moth. The size of an adult flying individual is 1.5-3 mm. Whiteflies reproduce rapidly by laying their eggs on the underside of the leaf. A white translucent caterpillar appears from the masonry in a few days, in covered tomatoes, in a greenhouse, reproduction is especially fast.

Caterpillars on tomatoes feed on the juice of the plant and the bush dies. The whitefly secretes a viscous molasses that clogs the stomata of the leaf and it stops breathing. In greenery, the processes of photosynthesis are disrupted. Sooty fungus settles on sticky molasses (honeydew). Tomatoes cease to grow and bloom, their leaves, ovary, flowers fall.

AT middle lane The whitefly lives in greenhouses and greenhouses. It can be brought with seedlings grown in the nursery. In the southern regions of Russia, this pest feels great in gardens and fields.

To kill the whitefly, the undersides of the leaves are sprayed with Aktara or Fitoverm preparations from a spray bottle. The chemicals act on adults and caterpillars, but insect eggs do not die during processing. Therefore, spraying is done several times, with an interval of one week. The soot fungus is destroyed by Fitosporin for tomato or its “universal” analogue.

The whitefly is devoured by some types of ticks, which are specially grown in agrotechnical laboratories, larvae ladybug and gold-headed.

Bedbugs and ticks

Tomatoes are damaged by stink bugs, cucumber beetle and horsefly bug. These insects eat almost all garden crops. Tomatoes are also threatened by rust and spider mites.

Bed bugs

Shield insects damage tomato fruits. Yellow and whitish spots appear on the skin of the tomato. When they are opened, white porous cells are found. Tomato bushes growing close to weeds most often suffer. The shield is destroyed with drugs Aktara, Karbafos, Phosphamide, Chlorophos.

rust mite

The rust mite is very small, length adult- 0.16-0.25 mm. This pest lives in dry and hot regions of Europe and gradually spreads to the west. The mite lives on and inside the leaves, as well as in the fruits. The foliage and stems of plants become spotty, brown, gray-violet. Leaves curl up and die. Dense cork-like growths appear on the fruits, which makes the tomatoes inedible.

From a rust mite, only timely treatment with chemicals helps. The most effective are Vertimik and Atellik. Fufanon, Karbofos, Fitoverm, Kemifos also help.

spider mite

The spider mite feeds on the juices of the ground part of the tomato. It is not difficult to notice this pest - white and yellowish dots appear on the back of the leaves. These are puncture sites. Later, the plants are entwined with a thick white cobweb. The tick itself is very small and difficult to see.

This tomato pest loves high humidity and warm air, therefore, it reproduces more actively in greenhouses than on open beds. Used to fight ticks different methods. Small plantings can be sprayed with alcohol, an aqueous tincture of henbane with soapy water, a tincture of dandelion, horseradish roots, tobacco and garlic. Of the chemicals, Carbophosphor and Agrovertin, Antiklesch are effective.

The natural enemies of the spider mite are the lacewing, insects phytoseiulus and metaseiulus. They quickly destroy the entire tick population. Insects can be bought in nurseries.

Colorado beetle

The Colorado potato beetle is clearly visible on tomato bushes. Adults are conspicuous because of the bright shell with yellow and black stripes. The Colorado potato beetle lays brownish small eggs on the underside of the leaf. Red beetle larvae appear on the 10th day. They reach 10 mm in length and devour the entire bush for 3-4 days. If the summer is hot and long, 4 generations of this pest may appear and grow. The beetle hibernates in the soil, at a depth of up to 50 cm.

The Colorado potato beetle is especially dangerous in the spring, when potato tops have not yet grown, and tomato seedlings have already been planted in open ground. The beetle moves to tomatoes in August, when the sun dries the potato tops.

How to kill the Colorado potato beetle? Processing of tomatoes is carried out several times during the summer, as these pests appear. Leaves and stems of plants are sprayed with Prestige, Iskra, Aktara, Mospilan, and other means. The liquid is evenly applied to the entire bush.

The Prestige chemical agent is also used when planting seedlings. The contents of the sachet are diluted in 10 liters of water and the solution is poured into the wells. The drug protects young plants up to 50 days.

An aqueous infusion of ash with the addition of laundry soap helps to destroy the larvae. Garlic, nasturtium, calendula, legumes are planted next to the tomato ridges. Larvae and beetles are also harvested by hand.

Medvedka

it large insect has an oblong body up to 5 cm long. The distribution area of the bear is all of Europe, North Africa and Asia. Adults fly, move on the ground and underground. The larvae live in the soil, where they dig passages. Medvedka prefers loose, warm soils. Insects can be found in greenhouses and greenhouses, on fertilized beds and flower beds.

Moving underground, the bear damages the roots of seedlings and they die. This insect can disrupt the root system of seedlings and young tomato, adult tomatoes also suffer from it.

There are about 20 ways to deal with a bear. These pests of tomatoes and other plants are destroyed by a variety of methods.
Tomato seedlings are planted in fine-mesh nets, the sprout is protected near the soil surface with a rubber ring.
Pine needles are placed in the hole, eggshell drip a few drops of iodine.
Pieces of fish, cloves of garlic, onion peel are buried in the beds, and marigolds are planted.
Freshly cut aspen stakes are stuck into the ground.
Medvedka is destroyed with drugs Grizzly, Medvetoks, Thunder. Granules are poured into the grooves between the beds. The insect eats the pellets and dies.

Gardeners build beer traps, fill mink with oil and water. In autumn, traps are made in the pits from old foliage and manure. After frosts, manure and compost are scattered around the garden and the bears freeze.

Nematode

Gall nematode infects the root system garden plants. Small worms on the roots of tomatoes appear in June. They penetrate into the root tissue and eat it from the inside. An adult nematode secretes a toxin and growths (galls) form on the roots. In them, each female lays hundreds of eggs.

damaged root system stops transporting water nutrients from the soil. The worm that appeared on the roots of a tomato slows down the development of the bush. The tomato does not bloom well, the tied tomatoes almost do not grow.

A tomato affected by this pest cannot be cured. Bushes are dug together with the root system and big block soil and removed from the site. The pit is treated with Carbation, Vidat, Thiazon, Ipam, Dazomet or Onetion so that all gall nematodes and their eggs are destroyed. The dug up soil is watered with the same preparations before planting seedlings, if a nematode was seen in the garden in the previous season.

wireworm

The wireworm (larva of the click beetle) is a small bright yellow and orange-yellow worm up to 1-3 cm long, living in fields and gardens. The larva has a long development cycle (from 4 to 5 years), after which it pupates and turns into a flying individual.

The wireworm eats the roots and stems of tomatoes. The body of a small larva is soft, as it grows, it becomes hard to the touch. The wireworm lives at a depth of 5-10 cm; when the soil dries out, it climbs deeper. At heavy rains worms crawl to the very surface of the soil.

You can get rid of the wireworm with the help of environmental products and chemicals. In the holes they put old pine needles, onion peel, mustard powder. Decaying, they slow down the development of the pest.

The wireworm does not like the neighborhood with green manure - white mustard, phacelia and legumes (peas, beans).

by the most effective method the fight is to reduce soil acidity. To achieve this, the soil is added slaked lime, crushed egg husks.

Before planting, the hole is recommended to be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate. Saltpeter applied to the soil will enhance the growth of the tomato and make it more resistant to wireworm. Before planting, the dug up soil is treated with Baduzin, Provotox, Diazonin (solution or granules), Aktara solution.

Gnawing shovel

Caterpillars of the nibbling scoop (winter, actually nibbling, wild, caradrine, swamp) live mainly in the ground, but also eat leaves and stems of tomato bushes close to the ground. This is a thick caterpillar up to 32-35mm long with spotted skin and powerful jaws. The gnawing scoop is found in greenhouses and open ground.

The adult scoop is a nondescript motley or gray butterfly. The butterfly lays its eggs on the underside of the leaf. Young individuals of 1-2 instars eat leaves from the underside, leaving only the skeleton; grown-up caterpillars feed on foliage and tomato fruits.

Plants are sprayed with chemicals to kill caterpillars. You can use Decis, Arrivo, Sherpa, biological products Bitoxibacillin, Lepidocide.

How to deal with caterpillars on tomatoes without the use of chemicals? Before getting rid of the scoop using folk remedies, it is advisable to collect the caterpillars by hand. You can spray the plants with an infusion of bitter wormwood, garlic, a double-ash solution.

Aphid

Aphids on tomatoes appear in June-July. Turning the leaf over, one can see small black or yellowish insects and clutches of eggs held by sticky molasses.

Insects drink plant juices why the leaves become lethargic and withered. Aphids on young tomatoes can destroy a seedling in a matter of days. If there are a lot of pests, the tomato will dry out completely.

Aphids are destroyed with solutions of Karbofos, bleach and Trichlometafos. The preparations are diluted according to the instructions and applied from the spray gun to the underside of the leaves.

Insects are washed off with a jet of water, but this method is not very effective against ovipositions. Folk remedies - a soap-ash solution, infusions of wormwood, garlic, celandine, hot pepper and yarrow, tobacco are quite effective for pest control. Aphids do not like the smell of nasturtium, thyme, garlic and onions; these plants are planted next to tomatoes to repel insects.

May beetle larva (Khrushcha)

The beetle larva moves underground and eats the roots of plants, including tomatoes. The adult beetle eats mainly the leaves of trees and bushes.

May beetle larvae are destroyed without the use of chemicals. When digging up a garden and plowing a plot, they are collected in a bucket and then destroyed.

Nitrogen is added to the soil mineral fertilizers. The larva does not appear on soils fertilized with nitrogen. To destroy the Khrushchev, it is recommended to water the soil with infusion onion peel. Khrushchev does not like the smell of cruciferous plants (turnips, turnips, radishes), lupines and elderberries.

Prevention and control of pests

Preventive measures can reduce insect populations or completely get rid of them. To this end, the following work is carried out:

Autumn deep plowing, which allows the cold to destroy insects and larvae in the ground.
Applying insecticides to the soil before ploughing.
Planting flowers, shrubs and vegetables next to tomatoes that repel pests.
Disinfection of seeds with a solution of potassium permanganate.
Irrigation of soil for seedlings.
Washing tomato greens with a hose.
Steaming the soil in the greenhouse, processing it with Bordeaux mixture.
Attract birds and beneficial insects to gardens.
Removal and burning of last year's tops and roots of tomatoes.
The location of the tomato ridges away from other nightshade crops.

Methods of pest control depend on the type and number of insects and mites. All methods can be divided into chemical, biochemical and folk.

Chemicals destroy pests immediately after spraying the bushes. After processing, vegetables can not be eaten long time- from 10 to 21 days.

Biological products act more slowly, the death of insects and larvae occurs 3-5 days after spraying. But vegetables can be eaten after 5-7 days.

Folk remedies, including mainly herbal infusions and decoctions, are harmless to people. After using them, tomatoes can be washed and eaten immediately. Flaw folk remedies is the need for frequent use.

If the leaves are absolutely healthy cucumbers began to turn yellow, then a spider mite actively breeds in your greenhouse. What measures to combat it will help most effectively? In this article, we will talk about the treatment of infected plants. We will discuss agrotechnical, chemical methods of struggle, as well as folk remedies. From visual photos and videos, you will learn what a spider mite looks like and how to get rid of it.

Find and destroy

In the film, whose title sounds the same as the title of this section, the protagonist fought the enemy for a long time. For the final victory, he needed a clear military strategy. The gardener needs to do the same. Without a strategy, the harvest will go to the winner, the spider mite. If these arachnids spread freely, the plants die completely.

First you need to find the enemy. And the sooner this is done, the faster the victory will be.

The first sign of a mite infestation is the appearance of yellow dots along the central vein of the leaf. Pests can settle on 190 types of cultivated and wild plants, for example, on cucumbers, peppers, eggplant, pumpkin and melon, but they practically do not appear on tomatoes. Moreover, greenhouses attack more often than open ground.

The appearance of yellow dots on the leaves is a sign of a spider mite

After some time, yellow spots on the leaves increase because the pest pierces the leaf cell and feeds on its juice. On the back side a web appears on the leaf, along which uninvited guests move. Then the leaves finally turn yellow and dry. First, ticks destroy all the leaves, and then move to upper part plants and eat fruits and young leaves.

Plant infested with spider mites

What does a spider mite look like

This is a tiny insect 1-2 mm in size. with piercing-sucking mouthparts. It happens milky-transparent, yellow-green, orange or red. Female ticks can lay up to 400 eggs. In greenhouses, they give about 20 generations, ticks live 30 - 50 days. Arachnids begin to actively develop at a temperature of 12 degrees, they feel great in conditions of 25 - 30 degrees of heat, and humidity from 35 to 60 percent.

Attention! Tick eggs can be viable for up to 5 years!

A tick can get into a greenhouse in any way, even a summer resident can bring it on his clothes or tools. If infection has occurred, it is necessary to meet the tick fully armed.

Agrotechnical methods of dealing with spider mites

The main thing in the fight against spider mites is not to wait for its appearance, but to prevent it.

Attention! Ticks can lay thousands of eggs while summer residents are about to start hostilities. Pest control should be carried out quickly and regularly. And do not stop until 100% of the population is destroyed. If only 10% remains, then the insects will breed again.

Ticks web leaves of plants

Female ticks winter in the remains of plants and weeds, under clods of earth, in cracks and crevices. This means that the best prevention will be cleanliness in the greenhouse, the absence of weeds and old leaves. As well as spring disinfection of the greenhouse with sulfur checkers and bleach.
Practitioners advise planting in the greenhouse either cucumbers (the favorite food of pests), or tomatoes and cabbage, on which ticks are reluctant to settle.
If in the autumn the greenhouse was already infected with a pest, then in the spring it is better to leave a considerable distance between the rows of plants. Then there will be a chance to have time to destroy tick families before they move to neighboring bushes.
Pests like medium humidity, so it is best to provide a humid climate of 80-85%, which is quite suitable for vegetables.
Every 3-4 days it is necessary to carefully examine the back of the leaves. If you find yellowness - immediately destroy the diseased parts of the plants.
You need to loosen the soil and water it regularly; ticks feel better in a neglected greenhouse.
You can try to survive spider mites with the help of the predatory mite Phytoseiulus, the natural enemy of the spider mite.
Cereal crops planted between greenhouses will become a barrier to the movement of the tick from one greenhouse to another.

Folk methods of dealing with spider mites

Attention! Spider mites are able to adapt to any substances. The use of one drug several times and its weak effect signal that arachnids have developed immunity. So you need to quickly change the tool.

In the fight against spider mites, the well-known weed - hogweed will help everyone

If a mass infection of vegetables occurred during the period of fruit setting and formation, then it is undesirable to use chemical means of control, this will be an extreme case. You can resort to folk ways, which were used by our great-grandfathers.

Attention! The web of ticks protects its inhabitants, retains any liquid and solutions. Therefore, it is necessary to spray there most carefully and plentifully.

Chemical methods of dealing with spider mites

If you have used the above tools, but are not satisfied with the result, then it is time to use heavy artillery. Eliminate an extensive lesion without chemical methods almost impossible. Industry has developed special preparations against ticks, they are called acaricides.

There are many chemical agents against spider mites, but they cannot be used during the period of fruit formation.

Attention! After chemical processing fruit-bearing crops, vegetables can be eaten only after 3 to 5 days, depending on the remedy.

For spraying vegetables, you can use colloidal sulfur (80 g per 10 liters of water) or ground sulfur 4 g / m3.
Fitoverm is also suitable (10 ml per 10 liters of water).
If you use bitoxibacillin, then you need to dilute 100 gr. for 10 l. water.
BI-58 can help in the fight (10-15 ml per 10 liters of water). Even if it was not possible to completely spray the infected leaves, the mites still die, as the drug moves along with the plant sap.
Vermitek, Actofit, Appolo, Flumite, Fitoferm, Aktellik and other mixtures. But if you see that after 3-4 times the drug does not work properly, then the arachnids have adapted.
The Plant-Plin preparation is suitable for dealing with uninvited guests. It is available in the form of sticks that need to be dripped into the root zone. When watering, the substance gradually dissolves and acts on pests in 2-3 days.
Etisso is used in the same way.
Actelik is one of the most serious remedies. One ampoule of the product (5 ml) is diluted with a liter of water. Processing plants is best done with a spray gun.

All of the above funds can be used every 10-15 days. With extensive infection - after 5-10 days.

Your strategy will be victorious if you do not give up, and are not afraid to apply the means in a complex way. And if necessary, then in high concentration.