Why do young trees dry up. Why do fruit trees dry out? The leaves begin to wilt and dry prematurely. apple tree not fruiting

Unfortunately, often gardeners have to observe a rather gloomy picture. On the apple tree, suddenly, as if for no reason at all, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off. The fruit tree, which until recently had a lush green crown, withers literally before our eyes. It is important not to waste time, to correctly determine the cause and help the apple tree. About what factors can lead to the drying of foliage and branches, as well as how to eliminate them, will be discussed in this article.

The reasons

So, if the trouble did happen, and you observe wilting leaves, you need to start by determining the causes of this phenomenon. And there are a lot of them.

The factors due to which the apple tree dries can be divided into several groups:

neglect of agricultural technology, improper care behind a fruit tree;
attacks of harmful insects;
disease damage;
lack of trace elements, insufficient or untimely feeding.

Mistakes in care

Many novice gardeners and summer residents consider the apple tree to be a very unpretentious culture. Like, the main thing is that the seedling takes root, and then things will go by themselves. This point of view is fundamentally wrong.

Of course, there are wild varieties of this tree that grow in forests and fields without receiving any care. However, the fruits of such "free" apple trees do not differ good taste. The apples on them are very small, sour, astringent.

"Domesticated" apple trees are bred primarily to obtain a crop of a certain quality. Therefore, a tree spends a lot of energy on the formation of fruits.

And caring for a garden fruit crop requires a very competent and attentive throughout the life of a tree.

So, what mistakes in care can lead to the fact that the apple tree dries up literally before our eyes:

In regions with frosty winters, the fruit tree must be properly prepared for it. If the trunk of the plant is not wrapped and protected from frost, there is a risk of formation of so-called frost cracks in it. They arise due to the fact that the moisture constantly contained in the wood fibers freezes and expands in volume. As a result, the capillaries of the trunk and the fibers of the cortex are damaged or torn.

In severe frosts, the superficial roots of the fruit tree can also be damaged.

Often it is the freezing of the roots and trunk that is the reason that a previously strong and healthy apple tree suddenly withered after the winter.

Unsuitable soil can provoke a gradual drying of the fruit tree. In this case, individual branches begin to wither and die, and then all the leaves fall from the tree. Apple trees do not tolerate sandy and clay soils. It is also undesirable to plant a tree in soil with a high percentage of crushed stone and gravel.
The root system of the apple tree may suffer due to excessive soil moisture or the close passage of groundwater. In this case, the oxygen supply of the root system is disturbed. Constant high humidity over time, it also leads to rotting of the roots of the tree. The apple tree under such conditions is very weak, practically stops growing, and actively loses foliage.
When planting a seedling, you need to think in advance which plants and crops the growing apple tree will be adjacent to. Often cause poor development or withering of the tree is root competition.

At adult apple tree the roots are approximately twice as wide in diameter as its crown. Therefore, if other mature and powerful trees grow in the immediate vicinity, the apple tree may simply not have enough food.

Also in the root zone, thinning should be carried out regularly or complete removal weeds and grasses. Plants such as couch grass and timothy have a poisonous effect on the apple tree. You definitely need to get rid of them.
It is important to observe the timing of planting seedlings. Landing is carried out in autumn or spring, in a pre-harvested before winter landing pit. Young trees planted in summer have a very low survival rate. The branches and top of the "summer" seedling quickly turn yellow.
Excessive care and overuse of chemicals lead to chemical burns various parts tree. Very frequent and unreasonably abundant treatments with pesticides and insecticides do not benefit the tree at all. The apple tree itself begins to suffer from aggressive substances: its leaves, trunk, bark, shoots.
Incorrect pruning can cause weakening of the fruit tree. Particular attention should be paid to the processing of slices. Neglect of this procedure leads to infection of the culture with diseases, fungus and rot.
Cause of partial or complete drying apple trees can also become improperly grafted. This process requires some experience and skill. It is worthwhile to study all its nuances well before grafting a fruit crop on your own.
The leaves may dry out due to prolonged hot weather and dry air. The influence of this weather factor is especially noticeable if the apple tree is still young. Usually, only foliage reacts to dry air, and branches do not dry out.

Diseases and pests

Harmful insects and various diseases often take root in orchards and cause damage to plantings. Apple trees in this category of negative factors also have a lot of enemies. First of all, very young trees that have not had time to get stronger properly suffer. Also at risk are age-related, weakened apple trees.

Take a closer look at the fruit trees in the garden. In addition to the drying of foliage and branches, each disease or pest has a lot of its own specific features. BUT precise definition the reasons for the drying up of the tree will help to take the necessary measures and save the apple tree.

A very common and insidious disease is cytosporosis. The disease affects mostly mature or old trees with thick bark on the trunk and branches.

characteristic feature cytosporosis is the drying of individual sections of the bark, the rapid drying of the branches. On various parts of the tree, including the fruits, dark formations appear in the form of tubercles and dry growths.

If a young apple tree is affected, cytosporosis is difficult to notice for a long time. Unfortunately, the disease often leads to the death of the tree if the tissue damage is too deep.

Another terrible disease with a formidable name is black cancer. The disease is considered incurable, you can only prolong the life of the tree by removing the affected parts in a timely manner.

At the initial stage, the disease manifests itself by the formation of many black spots on the leaf plates. After a while, branches and large shoots begin to dry out. Multiple extensive black ulcers on the trunk and bark of branches speak of a serious and advanced degree of the disease. Rot develops on the apple tree, why the tree soon dies.

Scab often affects fruit crops. Brown and brown spots Over time, the leaves dry up and fall off.

If there is a coating of gray or white color with dark patches, this is a sure sign of powdery mildew infection.

Fungal disease affects the foliage, bark, young shoots, buds and fruits of apple trees. If the disease began to actively develop during the flowering period, then the color and ovaries for the most part will dry out and fall off.

The period of greatest activity of this fungal microorganism is the beginning of June. At this time, sap flow is still quite active in the tree, young juicy shoots are developing.

Insect pests are also frequent unwanted guests on garden plot. Their vital activity causes considerable damage to plantings and leads to loss or a significant decrease in the amount of the crop.

voracious aphid actively eats young leaves and shoots. This insect is in tandem with ants. The latter feed on the sugary liquid that aphids secrete in the process of life. Therefore, ants often carry larvae and adult insects closer to the location of the anthill. In the future, workaholic ants tirelessly climb the trunk to collect the nutrient composition from the bodies of these pests. Outwardly, aphids look like very small, oblong green rashes. It does not affect the branches and trunk, but settles on young leaves, sucking juices out of them and actively laying eggs.

With extensive damage to the crown, the tree is greatly weakened, the growth of young green branches stops, the foliage turns yellow.

caterpillars they love to feast on the leaves and fruits of apple trees. They are quite easy to spot even with the naked eye. Exists a large number of species of this insect. The main task in the fight against them is the destruction of adults and larvae located on the crown.
leaf roller, attacking apple trees and actively multiplying, gradually destroys foliage. A sign of defeat by this pest in the first place is the darkening of the leaves on one side or along the entire edge. Then the leaves begin to curl into a tube, darken completely and fall off. In a cocoon from a rolled leaf, the insect actively lays larvae and moves to healthy shoots.

The appearance of cobwebs on twigs and leaves is a signal that the tree has attacked mite. The insect itself is very difficult to see. Yellowing and falling leaves will tell about his further activities.
May beetle larvae live in the soil and feed on young plant roots. If they settled in the ground under an apple tree, it is likely that young growing roots will be actively eaten by them. Usually, when the larvae of the May beetle attack, the apple tree normally blooms in the spring. However, after the color crumbles and almost all the foliage turns yellow in July-August.

In addition to insects, some animals that dig holes and passages in the upper layers of the soil can cause harm to the apple tree. For example, moles or mice can damage young tree roots, thereby weakening the entire plant.

Their presence on the site can be judged by the presence of minks, earthen mounds, and areas with loosened soil.

nutritional deficiency

The last negative factor weakening fruit trees, is the lack of necessary nutrients. This may be due to the characteristics of the soil, insufficient or untimely top dressing. Or it is due to the introduction into the soil of substances that are not at all necessary for a fruit crop.

In particular, apple trees react sharply to a lack of sulfur, magnesium, and iron. The last element is especially important for the development of young seedlings. For top dressing several times a season use soluble complex fertilizers. The introduction of ammonia fertilizers significantly strengthens the immunity of the fruit tree. Nitrogen-containing preparations stimulate the development of the root system. It is also important to combine root and foliar top dressing.

How to save a tree?

A set of measures to save a tree depends on the specific reasons that led to yellowing, drying of foliage, drying of branches and bark.

If we are talking about gross errors in the growing process, proper care should be immediately provided to the culture.

Much attention must be paid to preparing trees for wintering. At the end of autumn, to protect the apple tree from freezing, abundant mulching of the root zone is carried out. The trunk is wrapped with spruce branches or covering material. After snow falls, a snowdrift is thrown around the trunk. All these measures will help to avoid the very detrimental effects of severe frosts.

Sanitary pruning branches should be carried out regularly. An important point in this process is timely and correct handling all cuts.

With excessive soil moisture, you will have to resort to transplanting a seedling or draining the soil. If long time the weather is hot, dry, it is important to provide the fruit tree with regular sufficient watering. Do not allow the growth of grasses and weeds in the near-stem zone. Regular weeding and loosening the soil will significantly strengthen the tree and contribute to more active growth and development.

If the root system is attacked by rodents, special poisons are used.

Preventive measures

Few will argue with the fact that it is better to prevent any troubles than to disentangle their consequences. This approach is quite fair with respect to caring for fruit crops. Feasible and timely preventive measures taken will increase the chances that the apple trees in the garden will remain unharmed, strong and give good harvest. And this, you see, is the most optimal and desirable option.

Do not leave fallen leaves, branches, fruits under the apple tree. The near-trunk area should be cleared of plant debris. In the process of treating diseases, all affected areas of the tree must be removed. With black cancer, this is the only way to deal with the disease.

Cut and sawn branches, foliage and affected fruits should be removed from the site as soon as possible or burned.

The tool that was used to remove the infected parts of the tree should preferably be disinfected. You can treat it with chlorhexidine or ignite it on fire.

Birds can be of great help in the fight against insect pests. It would be useful to place a couple of birdhouses on the garden plot. In winter, bird feeders can be equipped. Dead bark should be removed from the tree trunk in a timely manner. Insects often settle in the gaps and cracks between the dried areas, rot or fungus forms.

An important preventive measure is the treatment of the crown with copper preparations, Bordeaux mixture and complex broad-spectrum insecticides. Do not forget about the regular and timely feeding of fruit trees.

At the first stages of mastering the process of growing your garden, it is very difficult to delve into all the nuances and tricks. The following are some tips for those who have taken up gardening not so long ago and do not yet have sufficient experience in this matter.

If there is clear signs the fact that the apple tree froze during the winter cold, you can help it "thaw". To do this, gardeners water the tree warm water with dissolved micronutrients. Set aside pruning until the buds open. Often those branches that seemed to be dead, nevertheless awaken. If the buds have not formed, the branches will have to be removed.
If there is a high occurrence of groundwater in the area with plantations and there is no way to transplant a tree, you can maintain its dwarf size. So it will be possible to save the apple tree and at the same time unload the weakened root system.

After a winter with severe frosts, the apple tree can be sprayed with a solution of heteroauxin. This composition stimulates the growth of young shoots, promotes wound healing after pruning.
During the fight against aphids, do not forget about her fellow ants. It will require the extermination of anthills throughout the site. Otherwise, the aphid will almost certainly return to the garden again.
Oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen has a negative effect. The introduction of this substance should be carried out according to the instructions and recommendations on the package. Excessive and frequent application of ammonia makes the plant very attractive to aphids and other pests.
It is worth remembering that chemicals cannot be used if apples ripen on the tree. If there is an extreme and urgent need for this, you will have to abandon the use of fruits and subsequently destroy the crop.

Careful high whitewashing of the tree saves from fungus and mold on the trunk. It is also a barrier to many non-flying insects.
Very old fruit trees can dry out on their own due to age. You can support a perennial apple tree by fertilizing, timely removal of dead branches, cleaning the trunk from dried bark.
If the foliage dries up mainly on the top of a young apple tree or seedling, then the reason for this is the defeat of the root system. Weakened roots cannot deliver nutrition to the upper parts of the plant. In this case, you should carefully examine the near-trunk zone for the presence of holes and underground passages of rodents and moles.

Other factors leading to root damage may be ground water or freezing of the soil in severe frosts in winter.

Often, the larvae of the Maybug cannot be dealt with quickly. The fact is that they can live at a depth of up to one meter. Insecticide solutions simply do not reach all individuals deep in the soil. But it is known that the larvae of this insect really do not like ammonia. If you cultivate the soil in the near-trunk zone of the apple tree, the insects will hastily leave the unfavorable place. Pharmaceutical solution ammonia prepared in the proportion of 50 g of the drug per 8-10 liters of water.

See the next video for tips on caring for an apple tree.

The main reason is verticillium wilt.

AT last years cases of sweet cherry diseases with verticillium have become more frequent, which leads to early drying out of both individual branches and the tree as a whole.

On young trees (3-7 years old), the disease begins in the spring, the apical buds of bouquet twigs turn black and do not bloom one or two weeks before flowering, withering of the inflorescences is often observed. When carefully examined on the tree trunk, in the forks and on the skeletal branches, you can find subtle depressed stripes and spots of a rusty-brown color. different size. Such spots can from time to time be separated from the living tissue by cracks from which the gum flows. The disease is active. If not accepted preventive measures, the tree may die in the current growing season.

In trees older than 7 years, the disease turns into an acquired form: necrotic lesions form on the bark of the trunk and scedate branches. The bark around it cracks and exfoliates from the tree species in the form of continuous longitudinal strips, forming depressions from which gum flows abundantly. Uniformly growing wounds completely cover the affected part of the plants, mushrooms settle on them. Trees slowly dry out over 10-15 years.

Problem Solving

To prevent early drying of the cherry, you need to make the following requirements. On the site where it grows, you can not grow nightshade, vegetable, gourds, strawberries, sunflowers, in other words, plants that are very affected by verticillium wilt - they can be a source of infection.
The soil for cherries should be breathable. Cherry does not tolerate languid clay soils, solonchak and solonetsous lands are also undesirable, with a close level of groundwater, which worsens the aeration of the root system. Based on own experience, I plant trees in the fall, with all this I place the root neck at a depth of 4-5 cm from the surface of the earth. I perform formative pruning of trees in the summer (end of May-August), when the development of microbes is inhibited highest temperature air. Cutting tool disinfect with 10% substance blue vitriol, formalin or carbolic acid. I certainly cover the sections with garden pitch or alkyd paint.
In order to protect trees from sunburn and frost cracks, which contribute to the development of verticillium wilt, in autumn and in winter-spring time I spend whitewashing the trunks and bases of skeletal branches with a 20% lime substance with the addition of a 2% solution of copper sulphate. I clean the gum ulcers and cover them with clay and mullein putty (1: 1), also adding a 2% solution of copper sulphate to it. After heavy rains in August-September and first leaf fall, I spray with 1% Bordeaux liquid or cuproxate. In October - two more treatments with the same products with an interval of 15 days.
In the spring, to disinfect the apical buds, on which the pathogen overwinters, I spray the trees with 3% Bordeaux liquid or cuproxate. Immediately after the end of flowering, during the period of intense infection with leaf diseases, I spray with polychoma (40 g), cuproxate (35 ml), radomil (40 g) or polycarbacin (40 g). In late July - early August, I repeat spraying with the same products. Reduced complex protective measures it is also effective in the early drying of apricots and other fruit trees.

Cherry is the name of a fruit and tree from the Rosaceae family, belongs to the genus Plum. the oldest

Drying of leaves and branches of an apple tree is a very common problem among owners of a summer cottage.

And before looking for a solution to this problem, you should know all the nuances and features of your climate zone.

Based on this, a plant variety should already be selected.

Planting an apple tree will also vary according to the type of climate.

Although the apple tree is a fairly unpretentious and resistant plant, in especially cold areas, it is recommended to plant semi-cultivated varieties.

For cold climates ideal option, there will be a variety - "Ranetka".

Planting time for apple trees is spring and autumn. Some gardeners plant an apple tree in the summer, but this is rather an exception to the rule. Summer planting has many disadvantages before autumn and especially spring planting.

When to plant an apple tree? spring planting, apple trees tend to tolerate better. Planting in the spring gives more chances for a large garden. In addition, closer to winter, your trees will be already formed and strong, which will allow them to safely survive the winter cold. But autumn planting, is useful in that the tree, if it takes root, will be stronger and more stable.

There are several ways to plant apple trees. Consider the most popular.

1. Pit for planting, prepared at least a week in advance. Depth, the pit should be at least - 60 cm, diameter, about the same. The earth from the upper layer should be placed separately from the lower one and not mixed.

2. A peg is driven into the bottom of the pit to support the seedling. Consider its length, the peg should rise 35 cm above the ground.

4. After a week, you can plant an apple tree. Don't forget to tie it to the peg.

The apple tree has dried up: why?

There can be many reasons for drying up. But first, exclude the most simple options. Make sure that the planting of the apple tree has been done - right. Also, the reason that the apple tree withered may be other large plants that grow too close to the root system of the apple tree. These plants can take a large amount of moisture and spoil the roots of the apple tree, which leads to its drying and disease. Therefore, the solution to the problem may be getting rid of closely growing plants or transplanting an apple tree to a new place.

Also, the cause of a shrunken tree may be high-standing groundwater. Oddly enough at first glance, but precisely because of the abundance of water in the soil, the apple tree begins to dry out. This happens because excess water begins to displace air from the soil, which is so necessary for the root system. Therefore, the apple tree begins to “suffocate” and may soon die. The solution is to transplant an apple tree, loosen the soil or replace the soil for the root system. In addition, for greater efficiency, you can dig special drainage ditches, which will take away excess groundwater from the roots.

But most importantly, the soil must “breathe”. Therefore, it is not allowed to find layers of sand, heavy clay, crushed stone and gravel in the planting area. Young apple trees can probably survive this because their roots are high and not yet deep enough, and there is always a lot of air in the upper layers of the soil. But for mature trees, this is extremely harmful, because they root system, goes to the very depths. And the older the tree, the more likely it is that the apple tree will dry out.

Even on loose and even soil, there may be “surprises” in the form of clay layers.

Place for landing, may be unfavorable, due to the recesses in which it will drain rainwater and moisture accumulates, thereby again displacing oxygen from the soil. So, apple trees standing on the same soil may differ due to deep landscapes. Therefore, it is important, before planting, to study the place and make sure it is safe for the tree, this will save you time and effort.

The leaves of a young apple tree have dried up: what to do - weather reasons

If everything is in order with the place and method of planting, then the reason why the leaves of the apple tree have dried up may be weather and climatic conditions. This is especially noticeable in the southern hot regions, where the temperature can easily reach +40 degrees. The scorching rays of the sun will dry the leaves, evaporating moisture from them. On the branches of an apple tree Sun rays, practically do not affect in this way.

Too dry air, even in not too hot weather, can also contribute to this phenomenon. Although apple trees are unpretentious and highly resistant to dryness, nevertheless, a minimum level of humidity must be maintained both in the air, so that the leaves of the apple tree do not dry out, and in the soil itself, for the root system. Exit: regular spraying and sprinkling.

The branches of the old apple tree withered: what to do?

Drying of branches is a more serious problem than just dried leaves. Here, most likely, the matter is in the disease. One of the most common options is cytosporosis. At the same time, the bark of the tree dries up in some areas, the branches dry near the apple tree, in some places dark tubercles and dry growths appear. Cytosporosis is quite difficult to detect on young plants, on the bark and branches that have not yet formed.

You can solve the problem only by removing the affected areas of the tree. So you can protect the tree from further infection. If the infection penetrates too far, into the tree, then it can no longer be saved.

The apple tree dries up: pests and diseases

Most often, drying out of a tree is caused by pathogenic infections and various small pests. We will analyze the most common diseases and how to treat them.

1. Black cancer. A very serious disease that requires immediate intervention. You can recognize him by such signs as: black spots on the foliage, branches dry near the apple tree, black ulcers and rot appear on the bark. There is only one way out - so that the apple tree does not dry out completely, you need to cut off the infected branches and remove the ulcerative areas, this is the only way to save the tree.

2. Scab. This infection causes damage to the leaves, slows down the growth of fruits and spoils them. It is easy to recognize it brown spots on the foliage, which subsequently dry the leaf.

The solution is the processing of foliage with Topaz or Hom.

3. Powdery mildew. A fairly common disease that infects tree buds, bark, shoots and foliage. Signs powdery mildew: White, gray and brown coating on leaves and buds, sometimes dark dots appear, there are no fruits, the tree dries up. After establishing this diagnosis, treatment consists in treatment with special solutions. For these purposes, "Skor" or "Topaz" is perfect.

With pests, everything is also not easy.

1. Aphids and ants. If ants have settled in your garden, then there will be aphids. Therefore, it is necessary to destroy the first. For this, there are special poisons and traps for ants. Aphids are destroyed by special solutions.

2. Caterpillars. Exists great amount types. It is easy to fight - the cobweb on the branches is destroyed, preferably by fire, and then the apple tree is treated with a solution of karbofos.

3. Tick, leafworm, codling moth. The presence of ticks can be told by the web on the leaves and branches, the other two “comrades” are more difficult to recognize if you do not see small caterpillars. To destroy these pests, spraying with a solution of nitrofen, chlorophos or karbofos is suitable. Larvae and eggs, if found, are destroyed by fire.

The apple tree has dried up: what to do - if the reasons are not established

If you cannot establish the reason why the leaves of the apple tree have dried up or the branches of the apple tree are drying, then we advise you to contact experienced gardeners and ask questions on gardening forums by posting pictures of your problem.

Do not sit back when the apple tree dries up, be sure to find the reason!

Twice a year you can eat raspberries. Ripening begins at the beginning of summer, the second stage of fruiting - in September, when you can treat yourself to raspberries until the first frost. raspberry bush unpretentious plant, but it is also subject to various diseases . One of the most common is the drying of leaves, berries and shoots. In this article we will try to figure out why the berries, leaves dry and what to do in such cases, what are the methods of treatment.

Causes of drying branches and berries

The drying process is called withering away syndrome. Most young plants are susceptible to it, because with the growth of a shrub, young shoots crack. This contributes to the rapid penetration of insect larvae and phytopathogenic fungi, the main culprits of drying, into the interior of the stem.

Disease caused by the reproduction of phytopathogenic fungi, manifested in the death of the stems in early spring. After winter, infected branches slowly grow back and dry out. If the plant does not have enough moisture, then the process is faster. If you do not take action, you can lose more than half of the stems and ovaries of raspberries.

Stems will crack more if they don't get enough water. Excessive fertilization of the soil with growth accelerators will also affect the integrity of the branches, because they do not have time to turf.

The culprit of infection of raspberry bushes is gall midge. Getting through natural cracks or mechanical damage inside the stem, it lays larvae that feed on the bark of the plant and destroy it. protective layer- periderm. This is the main barrier that prevents the penetration of phytopathogenic fungi into the interior of the plant.

Shoots become a feeding trough for larvae. In place of their greater accumulation, ulcers appear that prevent the spread of nutrients throughout the plant. This leads to the death of the upper part of the stem. The disease manifests itself in the form of purple or dark brown spots on the shoots..

Why do berries dry up?

The drying of raspberries is facilitated by various viral diseases that are spread by cicadas and aphids. These sucking insects carry the infection from diseased plants. The diseases are different, but the result is the same for everyone - the drying of the berries.

With viral chlorosis of the berry develop poorly, do not have time to gain juice and color, and eventually dry out.
With a yellow mosaic if the berry does not completely dry out, then it develops unilaterally and has a dryish, insipid taste.

Curly characterized by underdevelopment of berries and their drying. Bushes infected with this virus die within a few years.

First of all, diseases affect the crop. The one-sided development of berries, their shedding and drying should be a signal for the start of emergency action.

Why do leaves dry and curl during fruiting?

Viral and bacterial diseases of raspberries, spread by flying insects, provoke the drying of the leaves, even during fruiting. Diseases that affect berries primarily affect the condition of the leaves and their development. The same viruses bad influence per plant and yield:

Viral chlorosis. Infected leaves begin to turn yellow, dry and curl in the midst of growth and flowering along with berries, shoots become small compared to healthy ones.
yellow mosaic. This disease is characterized by yellowing leaves with twisted dry edges. It is an insect-borne virus that appears in late spring and mid-August.
Curly. You can distinguish healthy shoots from diseased ones by several signs:

slowdown growth;
thickening in diameter;
leaf color change to brown;
reduction in leaf size and their drying.

What is chlorosis and how to treat it

A disease that is often infected with a raspberry bush is chlorosis. His by nature of origin are divided into:

What does a bush affected by this virus look like:

turning yellow first in the center, then the whole leaves;
shoots are thinning and pulled out
berries or not formed at all, or half matures, and the other half dries.

Chlorosis should be dealt with immediately after planting. For this, there is a whole a range of products for spraying the plant and protecting it from sucking insects. If you want to harvest this year, then you should process in 2 stages:

In early spring, before bud break, use a 3% solution of Nitrafen or a 0.2% solution of Nicotine sulfate.
Before flowering emulsion of 30% Methylmercaptophos.

Before raspberries begin to ripen after spraying, at least 45 days must pass.

If chlorosis was provoked by unfavorable weather conditions, watering cold water or lack of organic compounds, you need to try improve the quality of plant care:

normalize watering with warm water, it is better if it is river or lake, heated in the sun;
make the soil more fertile through the application of mineral fertilizers;

soften the ground forest floor or peat.

Remember that it is easier to protect against the disease than to cure later.

How to protect raspberries from pests and diseases

Mulching is one way to protect. By protecting the roots of the plant, such a surface layer will allow the plant to get stronger and push back the process of cracking the stems when they become resistant to the disease. The mulch layer must be removed when the first buds appear. The soil under it is always saturated with moisture, this can cause rotting, death of the kidneys and eventually drying out.

Mulching is one of essential conditions preparing the plant for winter. It prevents freezing of roots and shoots, prevents the evaporation of moisture and protects against constant winds in some regions.

If you cut off the damaged stems in time, you can save part of the shrub. You need to cut off all areas covered with dark spots and small growths.. It will be better to remove the entire "sick" shoot completely.

Let the bush grow stronger and grow, spraying will help, which must be carried out during the period rapid growth , at the beginning and in the middle of summer. The lower part of the plant is processed, from the ground level by 25 - 30 cm upwards. Mixtures "Aktellik" - 0.2%, "Fufanon" - 0.3% and "Topaz" - 0.1% are suitable for this. Fruiting raspberries should be sprayed with the same preparations before flowering and after harvesting. To preserve the integrity of the berries, after flowering, 3 treatments with the Fitoverm biological product - 0.3% with an interval of 1 week should be carried out.

Proper planting of young plants

How new bushes are planted will depend on their resistance to gall midge larvae and viral diseases.

Young plants should be planted away from old bushes, which can be infected with larvae and fungi.

It is necessary to wash the roots under the pressure of water and wash all the soil from them. It is recommended to dig a small hole nearby, where water and soil residues will drain. The roots may contain unhatched gall midge eggs that need to be neutralized, i.e. bury.

Roots should be placed on a hard surface or placed in metal mesh so as not to damage.

After landing completely cut raspberry stalks even if you plant in the spring.

If possible, raspberries should be covered with non-woven material to prevent infection with viral infections that are spread by flying insects.

Spray once every 2 weeks Bordeaux mixture or other raspberry-approved chemicals. During this period, it is not a high yield that is important, but the strengthening of the stems and protection from pests and diseases.

Record Why raspberries dry and what to do? first appeared Pro Farm.

Tagged

As such, it was not, the lion's share of the site was planting, and the beds and fruit trees could only divide the space around the house. In the front garden, as a hedge, penetrating the old picket fence with elastic branches, they grew by themselves, and behind them, closer to the house, several cherry trees.

These few trees gave us a modest but steady harvest of fragrant sour northern cherries. This happened from year to year, and seemed unshakable and familiar. At the same time, I do not remember that my grandmother somehow looked after cherry trees. They, like currants, lived next to us with their independent lives.

Subsequently, planting apple and cherry seedlings on my site, I expected the same result. Alas, this did not work out. Very often in the spring I have to observe a sad picture - some young fruit tree does not wake up after a winter sleep, or, waking up and starting to bloom small leaves, suddenly dries up on the vine. This is what happened this spring. Another cherry did not wake up, and out of the four varietal cherries planted, now I have only one tree left.

cherry with live buds

The issue became acute, and it was no longer possible to postpone the search for a way out of the current situation. An attentive reader of the Green Blog could not fail to notice that the main idea of my articles is the idea of the inadmissibility of using any artificially created chemicals. But, all the sources that I got acquainted with, trying to understand how to prevent, spoke about one thing: it would not be possible to do without chemistry.

And this tree died, the buds are dry, inanimate

I realized that in my case it was most likely a monilial burn. I confess, I made a decision and settled on Horus, which has not only a therapeutic effect, but also a preventive one. The manufacturer claims that it does not harm bees, but is dangerous for fish if it enters water bodies. In addition to monial burn, this preparation helps protect fruit trees from fruit rot, clusterosporiosis, coccomycosis, alternariosis, scab and powdery mildew. Horus can be used in wet, humid weather (but not in the rain) and low air temperature, in addition, two hours after treatment, the drug is not washed off by rain.

So I sprayed cherries, plums, young apple trees, cherry plums and sea buckthorn. After 10 days, the treatment will need to be repeated. I will be able to tell about the results of the work done only in a year. I really hope that the losses in my garden will stop.