How and what to feed an apple tree in July? Professional advice. How and when to feed garden plants

Otherwise, they will not have time to prepare for the dormant period and will not winter well. More emphasis should be placed on fertilizers containing potassium and phosphorus.

Highly good remedy- foliar top dressing. Pour into the sprayer a solution with a concentration reduced by 10 times nutrients and spray on the leaves. Thus, the nutrients will reach the plant faster than if you just watered it.

Don't forget the old folk recipes. Here is the most common of them: soak any weeds, such as nettles, in a barrel, and leave for two weeks until the characteristic smell comes out. The resulting mixture must be diluted several times, and then water the plants. This "elixir" is in no way inferior to ready-made store dressings.

If possible, prepare organic bird droppings. This is how she prepares. A third of a bucket of bird droppings is poured to the top with water, kept for a day or two, stirring from time to time. The resulting slurry is diluted with water before use (3 parts of water for 1 part of the litter) and is added at the rate of half a bucket per 1 sq. meter or bucket for each tree.

Wood stove ash contains a lot of potassium, and it is primarily used as a potash fertilizer. However, in addition to potassium, the ash contains lime, phosphorus, boron, manganese, and other trace elements. The introduction of ash into the soil reduces its acidity, improves its composition. There is no nitrogen in the ash. The ash of deciduous trees is healthier: it contains 12-14 percent potassium (in the ash coniferous trees 4 - 6 percent).

For normal growth and maintaining high decorativeness, lawns require a large amount of nutrients, since a significant amount of them is "carried away" during mowing. The choice of fertilizers, their quantity, terms and methods of application depend on the composition of the soil and its physical properties. Nitrogen-containing fertilizers should not be abused, as this excessively enhances the growth of the vegetative part of plants and makes it difficult to mow. In dry summer weather, in order to avoid yellowing of the herbage, it is necessary to carry out sprinkling and top dressing of plants with ammonium nitrate at the rate of 10 g per 1 sq. meter. In addition, wood ash left after burning hardwood can be successfully used.

Properties of the elements that make up fertilizers:

Nitrogen - during the growing season enhances plant growth;
- iron - takes part in the formation of chlorophyll, plays an important role in plant respiration;
- potassium - gives resistance to fungal diseases and to short-term droughts;
- calcium - found in all cells of the plant;
- magnesium - plays an important physiological role in the process of photosynthesis, affects the oxidative recovery processes in plants;
- manganese - affects the synthesis of amino acids, proteins and vitamins;
- copper - activates the synthesis of B vitamins, affects photosynthesis;
- molybdenum - takes part in the synthesis of carbohydrates;
- phosphorus - is necessary for the growth, development and fruiting of all crops, for the development of the root system, as a result of which the supply of plants with nutrients improves, gives resistance to diseases;
- zinc - affects the production of growth hormone.

Try to avoid the main mistake that inexperienced gardeners make. Do not fertilize dry soil, otherwise the plant may get the so-called "salt shock". Use a dual watering system, that is, first water the soil well and only then apply fertilizer.

Yulia MOROZOVA, Chief Specialist of the Sokolniki Park Flower Service, advises

Top dressing of flowers in July with liquid mineral fertilizers

Any plant, regardless of the time of year, needs moisture, air and a sufficient amount of nutrients. Even in the most fertile soil, nutrients are enough for 2-3 months for an adult plant.

After this period, the plant experiences a deficiency of nutrients, which can manifest itself in falling and twisting of leaves, slow growth of flowers, loss of color saturation, and the appearance of fungal diseases. To avoid this, you need to regularly feed the plants.

Feeding perennials after flowering

In July, some of the plants have already faded (roses, daylilies, peonies), and a dormant period has begun. For others, on the contrary, the second month of summer is a time of active growth and flowering. We can observe the riot of colors of some varieties of roses (Iceberg, Arctic Fire), gladioli, asters. Now for both types of plants, a sufficient amount of nutrients in the soil is important.

Perennial plants that have already faded should be fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer: double superphosphate, potassium chloride in a ratio of 2 to 1. These include lupine (lat. Lupinus), feverfew (lat. Pyrethrum), oriental poppy (lat. Papaver orientale) , chamomile (lat. Matricaria), aquilegia (lat. Aquilegia).

How to feed flowering plants

For peonies (lat. Paeonia) use potash dry fertilizers (potassium salt, potassium sulfate): place 30-40 g of fertilizer in the groove next to the plant and fill it with water.

Roses (lat. Rosa) and dahlias (lat. Dahlia) are well fed with natural fertilizers, once every 10-12 days. For example, humus from a compost pit, or infusion of cut grass (soaked in water 2: 1).

Dilute organics with water - 1 to 20 humus or 1 to 10 green infusion. A bucket is enough for 5 large or 10-15 small plants. If you have not previously subcorked with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, you can add 10-15 g of potassium sulfate and superphosphate to the solution.

For feeding gladioli (lat. Gladiolus) use:

• ash solution (100 g per bucket of water);
• urea (1 tablespoon per bucket of water);
• phosphorus-potassium fertilizers (35 g per bucket of water).

You can also spray with a solution containing boric acid, potassium permanganate, copper sulfate, soap.

Asters (lat. Aster) are fed with one of the following fertilizers:

• organic humus, 2-4 kg per square meter;
• mineral fertilizers are used: potassium chloride, double superphosphate, in a ratio of 2 to 1. Use 6-9 g of dry fertilizer per 1 square meter.
• ammonium nitrate, 20-25 g per sq.m., also has a good effect on the growth of asters.

The soil where geykhera (lat. Heuchera), meadowsweet (lat. Filipendula), pyrethrum (lat. Pyrethrum) grows is well fertilized with chicken droppings and mullein infusion. These organic fertilizers enrich the soil with nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, magnesium, sulfur and zinc.

VEGETABLE CROPS

CABBAGE

WHITE CABBAGE. The first feeding is carried out 20 days after planting seedlings: 0.5 l of mushy mullein is added to 10 l of water, 0.5 l is spent per plant.

10 days after the first feeding: in 10 liters of water add 0.5 liters of mushy mullein or 0.5 liters of infusion of chicken manure, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. For 1 plant - 1 liter of infusion.

Early July. Feed only mid- and late-ripening varieties of cabbage. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of trace elements. For 1 m 2 use 6-8 liters.

August. Feed only mid- and late-ripening varieties. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska. For 1 m 2 - 6-8 liters.

In the first 2-3 weeks after planting seedlings, excessive soil moisture in the upper layer is undesirable, since the root system must penetrate into the deeper layers, where moisture reserves are more stable.

At optimal humidity soil, the growth of the inner leaves of a cabbage plant occurs a little faster than the outer ones, so they are tightly pressed against each other from the inside, forming a dense head of cabbage. Soil moisture fluctuations lead to uneven growth of inner leaves and cracking of heads.

So that ripe heads of cabbage do not crack, they need to be bent several times in one direction - to disrupt the root system. This will stop the access of nutrients and slow down the growth of cabbage.

For prevention against aphids, snails and slugs plants and soil are dusted with wood ash (1 cup per 1 m 2).

CAULIFLOWER. To form a yield unit, it needs about 2 times more nutrients than white cabbage. The highest need for phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium are needed. With a lack of boron, the apical buds die off, voids form inside the head and in the stump, and the head rots.

With a lack of molybdenum large leaves are formed, the heads become ugly. When growing on sandy soil, additional application is required. manganese. That's why cauliflower be sure to feed with micronutrients.

First feeding give 5-7 days after planting the seedlings - with a solution of urea (2 tablespoons per 10 liters of water per 10 plants) and potassium nitrate (1 tablespoon) with the addition of 1 teaspoon of microfertilizers.

Second top dressing- at the beginning of the formation of the head, for 10 liters of water - 3 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. Useful top dressing organic fertilizers: bird droppings, diluted with water 20 times, or mullein diluted with water 10 times, or slurry diluted with water 4 times.

To get snow-white heads they are covered from the sun: 2-3 sheets are broken or tied over the head.

RADISH

Radish, like any early ripening crop, is very demanding on soil fertility and is responsive to fertilizers.

To save seedlings from cruciferous flea, they are dusted with tobacco dust mixed with lime or ash (1: 1). To some extent, the flea is repelled by sprinkling seedlings with road dust.

When sowing and caring do not use potash fertilizers and ash, otherwise the plants may shoot themselves. good fertilizer- compost and nitroammophoska.

ONION

ONION. Fresh manure is not brought under the onion, otherwise growth is delayed, the formation of leaves does not stop for a long time. The bulb is formed late and does not ripen well, is more affected by cervical rot, and is poorly stored.

Onion responds well to application mineral fertilizers. However, its root system is sensitive to increased concentration salts, so it is better to make them in small portions for 2-3 times.

Immediately after the emergence of seedlings of nigella, crops you need to feed with nitrogen fertilizers at the rate of 10-15 g / m2. When 1-2 true leaves are formed, the first thinning is carried out, leaving 1.5-2 cm between plants. At the same time, weak plants are removed. After the appearance of 3-4 true leaves, thinning is repeated already at the final distance - 5-7 cm.

After the second thinning, top dressing is necessary complete mineral fertilizer better in liquid form. A good effect is given by top dressing with slurry diluted with water 5-6 times, or with bird droppings diluted 10-15 times. Add 30-40 g of superphosphate to a bucket of water. 3-4 buckets of solution are consumed per 10 m.

One month before cleaning irrigation is stopped. Last top dressing phosphorus-potassium fertilizers are carried out during the formation of the bulb, 150 g of potassium salt and 200 g of superphosphate are added per 10 m2.

When growing onion on heavy soil, it contributes to the early formation and maturation uprooting of plants. In this case, be careful not to damage root system, the soil is raked from the bulbs.

At early spring sowing onion seeds are ready for harvest in late August or early September. In some years, due to unfavorable weather conditions he does not have time to ripen by this time. To speed up maturation, plants dig in, damaging the root system, breaking the connection with the soil.

After 2-4 days, depending on the weather, the bulbs are harvested and laid out to dry with the leaves. Due to the outflow of plastic substances, the ripening process occurs and bulbs suitable for storage are formed.

Sometimes, to accelerate the ripening of the bulbs, rolling or crushing the leaves is used. However, this technique harms the crop, as the plants are damaged and pathogens penetrate the bulbs through the gaps formed. In addition, rolling does not stop growth, and with a broken stem, plants continue to grow.

FROM SEVKA. When the feather reaches a height of 10 cm, the processing of plants begins. from diseases(phytosporin - every 2 weeks). When the feather reaches a height of 8-10 cm, spend first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 1 cup of mushy mullein, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea, per 1 m 2 - 2-3 liters of solution.

Second top dressing- 12-15 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters of solution.

Third- when the bulb reaches the size walnut. For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, per 1 m 2 - 5 l of solution.

Onion fly control measures.

1. 
   Onions are placed next to carrots. The specific smell of carrots repels onion fly, and onion phytoncides - carrot fly.


2. 
   Dissolve 1 glass in 10 liters of water table salt, ridges of onions are watered from a watering can, trying not to fall on the feather. The first time this is done, when the pen reaches 5 cm, watering is repeated after 20 days.


3. 
   When a fly appears, the soil is sprinkled with a deterrent: 100 g of wood ash, or 1 tbsp. a spoonful of tobacco dust, or 1 teaspoon of ground pepper per 1 m 2 (2 times with an interval of 10-18 days).

Measures to combat peronosporosis ( false mealy dew). The onion bed should have a direction from north to south, well lit by the sun. Crops and plantings must not be thickened. Before planting, the seedlings are warmed up. Feathers at a height of 10-12 cm are sprayed with a solution of copper oxychloride, every 2 weeks they are sprayed with phytosporin.

LEEK. First dressing- when 5-6 true leaves appear, second- a month after the first. For 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 teaspoon of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate. For 1 m 2 - 3-4 liters of solution.

Ashes are added once a week before hilling - 1 cup per 1 m 2.

GARLIC

As soon as garlic leaves emerge from the ground, plantings are fed with nitrogen fertilizer. To do this, dissolve 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of urea, 10 l - per 1 m 2.

When the garlic leaves reach a height of 10-15 cm, rake the earth from the bulb, sprinkle with ashes and return the earth to its place. This operation is repeated when arrows appear.

Removing arrows garlic, leave a few pieces. They can be easily identified optimal time harvesting. Once on the heads the wrapper cracks and the bulbs begin look outside, it's time to dig the garlic.

For the improvement of planting material it is recommended to regularly rejuvenate the cultivated variety by sowing air bulbs. In the first year of cultivation, single teeth are formed from them. They are planted in the fall and the next year they get normal multi-toothed bulbs.

BEET

Likes sprinkling, loosening. When the root reaches walnut size, do top dressing: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska and 1 glass of wood ash. 10 liters of top dressing should be enough for 1 m 2 of area.

After 10 days- second dressing: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mushy mullein and 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. For 1 m 2 - 5-6 liters.

After the second thinning: for 10 liters of water - 2 cups of ash and 1 teaspoon of table salt. For 1 m 2 - 10 liters.

To prevent heart rot carry out foliar top dressing with boric acid: 2 g per 10 l of water.

To boost sugar content 2-3 times per season, beets are watered with a solution of table salt - 1 tbsp. spoon for 10 liters of water.

1-2 times per season, beets are fed with a solution trace elements: 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.

Zucchini, PATISSON

During fruiting, 2-3 leaves are removed from the middle of the bush - for better lighting and ventilation. Remove diseased, old leaves lying on the ground regularly.

Why do the ovaries rot? Most likely not pollinated female flowers. Or there were sudden changes in temperature. Or watered the bushes cold water. Or the ovaries were struck by vertex rot.

Decide from which plants you will take fruits for summer consumption and canning, and which ones you will leave for "winter" fruits. FROM "summer" plants, the fruits are removed as often as possible, preventing them from overgrowing, the wilted corolla of the flower serves as a signal for collection. From such plants, you can collect more than 20 greens.

On the "winter" plants are allowed to form 4-5 fruits. When they ripen, they are harvested for winter storage, cut off along with the stalk.

First dressing- before flowering (for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein, 1 tablespoon of nitroammophoska). Or for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. tablespoons ideal (1 liter per plant).

During flowering: for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of ash and 1 tbsp. spoon of the breadwinner, 1 liter of top dressing is spent on one plant.

During fruiting: for 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska and 2-3 tbsp. spoons of a giant, 2 liters per plant.

Additionally carry out 2 out root top dressing with an interval of 10-15 days (for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of urea or ideal). For one plant - 0.5 liters.

TURNIP

Turnip is best on fertile sandy loams and loams, where it turns out to be especially sweet. Do not use straw manure or feces as fertilizer. Good for growth and yield wood ash. By neutralizing the acidity of the soil, it protects plants from clubroot disease and partially provides potassium, phosphorus, calcium, and microelements. Rep is very responsive for boron fertilizers, therefore, foliar top dressing with boric acid is carried out twice per season (2 g per 10 l of water).

First thinning done with the formation of two true leaves, second- 10-15 days after the first. At the final thinning, the distance between plants should be 6-8 cm.

Demanding moisture throughout the growing season very high.

In the conditions of the Middle Volga region, turnips are sown for the first time at the end of April (for consumption in June). Next sowing date (for winter storage) are chosen in such a way that the root crops ripen before frost, - June 10-20.

CELERY

Very high demand for celery in nitrogen- the leaf rosette grows well. Phosphorus accelerates the maturation of plants and improves their quality. potash fertilizers contribute to the accumulation of sugars and starch, increase the frost resistance of the plant. In addition, calcium and magnesium must be added to the soil under celery.

On soils with low fertility, it is desirable to apply rotted manure or compost - 6-8 kg / m 2, nitrogen fertilizers - 3-5 g / m 2, phosphorus - 10 g / m 2, potash - 5 g / m 2, manganese - 2 g/m 2 . Organic and phosphorus are brought in for autumn digging, the rest - half for digging, half for top dressing.

When planting celery seedlings it is important not to bury the outlet- the apical bud should be at ground level. Compact the soil around the roots.

After 30 days after planting celery - root top dressing (for 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of giant and 1 teaspoon of urea), use 3-4 liters per 1 m 2.

In the middle of July carefully rake the ground from the root crops and wipe with a rag. After 15 minutes spud. Watered only after 2-3 days. And here's a tip for root celery.

From the middle of summer cut off the root celery lower leaves, exposing the base of the stem.

Thick, long, juicy petioles can only be obtained when the plant grows rapidly throughout the growing season. If at one time or another the development of celery is delayed, good harvest do not wait. Therefore, we must try to create suitable conditions- after each watering, loosen the soil so that air flows freely to the roots, water and feed on time and, of course, weed.

Root celery is afraid of frost and reacts to spring cold with an arrow-peduncle. The autumn cold is well tolerated. In order not to risk it, it is better to plant seedlings of root celery at the end of May. Any growth retardation provokes shooting.

CARROT

Carrots give normal marketable root crops with the number of plants per 1 m of a row from 80 to 100 pieces (depending on soil fertility, with row spacing of 30-35 cm). The sparseness of crops leads to the formation of branched root crops, many of which crack.

Another reason for this phenomenon is excess nitrogen nutrition at the stage of leaf rosette formation and root growth.

First dressing- a month after the emergence of shoots, use 1 m 2 5 liters of solution. Second top dressing- after 15-18 days, use 7-8 liters of solution per 1 m2. For 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska.

In August carrots are fed with potash fertilizer: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoon.

To obtain large carrots , they make a cone in the ground with a crowbar, fill it with humus, plant 3 seeds, then leave one of the best sprouts.

You can feed the carrots and other "dishes". First dressing: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium sulfate, 1.5 tbsp. spoons of double superphosphate and 1 teaspoon of urea. Second top dressing: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate, a glass of a solution of pigeon (chicken) manure and 1 teaspoon of complex mineral fertilizer.

Good result gives foliar top dressing with boric acid (2 g per 10 liters of water).

Will scare away carrot fly spraying crops with infusion of onion peel. To do this, pour 400 g of husks with boiling water, tightly close the lid, insist and filter for a day. The onion peel remaining after the infusion can be spread out in the grooves between the plants.

When thinning, a strong smell of carrots appears, a carrot fly flies on it. Therefore, before thinning, crops are sprayed with such a solution: for 10 liters of water - 1 tbsp. a spoonful of ground black or red pepper and 1 teaspoon liquid soap. For 1 m 2 of crops, 1 liter of solution is consumed.

PUMPKIN

Pumpkin plants when they have 3-5 real leaves, spud to form additional roots. watering important during the growth of stems, leaves and fruits, during flowering they are limited.

left on the plant 2-3 side lashes, they are pinched after the formation of 2-5 ovaries, 5-7 leaves are left above each fruit.

During flowering plants are fed 1 time in 2 weeks. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 liter of mullein, 2 tbsp. spoons of nitroammophoska. Under 1 plant pour 8 liters of top dressing. Or 200 g of bird droppings are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Pumpkin loves foliar feeding with urea (15 g per 10 l of water) or superphosphate (40 g per 10 l of water).

RADISH

radish moisture-loving, therefore, on sandy soils gives a good harvest only when irrigated.

Varieties intended for summer consumption are sown in late April-early May, for winter - June 10-20. Radish is sown on ridges in one row with a distance between rows of 60 cm or on ridges in 3 rows with a distance between rows of 35 cm.

thickening- one of the reasons for the flowering and poor quality of root crops. First thinning carried out in the phase of two true leaves, second- in the phase of four true leaves. At the first thinning between plants in a row, a distance of 8-10 cm is left, at the second - 15-20 cm.

It is better to feed the radish with mineral fertilizers. First dressing- when 3-4 true leaves appear, the second - 20 days after the first. For 10 liters of water - 20 g of urea, 60 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium chloride.

POTATO

Application semi-rotted manure or compost (40-50 kg per 10 m 2) on loamy and sandy soils almost doubles the yield of tubers.

It is forbidden apply fresh manure under the potatoes (both in autumn and in spring). This leads to plant diseases, reduces the yield and quality of tubers.

First feeding contribute in the phase of the beginning of budding, before loosening or hilling. Mineral fertilizers are scattered in the aisles at a distance of 5-6 cm from the stems, and then embedded in the ground during hilling. For each bush spend 3-6 g of superphosphate, 3-4 g of potassium chloride or sulfate, 2-3 g of urea or ammonium nitrate. If nitrophoska is used for top dressing, it is taken at the rate of 10-12 g per bush.

From organic fertilizers, humus is suitable - two handfuls for each bush. Wood ash is added at the rate of one or two handfuls mixed with the same amount of soil. Dry bird droppings - 10-15 g per bush.

Second top dressing with a weak development of the above-ground mass, it is carried out in the phase of the beginning of flowering, mainly with potash fertilizers (30 g of potassium sulfate per 10 l of water per 10 m 2). With a lack of potassium in the soil, the flesh of the tubers darkens. After feeding, the plants spud.

Immediately after the second feeding plants are dusted with ash. For them, this is additional feeding, and for the beetle - a clear discomfort.

To accelerate the outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the tubers and thereby increase the yield, in the budding and flowering phase, as well as three weeks before harvesting, apply foliar top dressing . Even a single spraying of plants at the final stage increases the yield of tubers by 7-11%, and starch content by 0.8-1.0%. To do this, 20 g of superphosphate is infused in 10 liters of water for 1-2 days (periodically mixing well). It will take 1 liter of solution to process 10 m 2 of a potato plantation.

With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, foliar top dressing is carried out during the period of budding and flowering of potatoes (20 g of urea per 10 l of water). At the same time, tops are sprayed with solutions of trace elements.

In dry and hot weather it is impossible to deeply loosen the soil and hill the plants - this causes loss of moisture, overheating of the soil. Under such conditions, when loosening, a little soil is raked up to each plant from the row spacing.

Above ground mowing 7-10 days before harvesting (not later and not earlier) helps to increase the resistance of tubers to skin damage, prevents the spread of diseases, especially late blight.

Preventive spraying plants against late blight begin at the beginning of budding, repeating after 7-10 days. Plants are sprayed with a solution of copper sulfate (2-10 g per 10 liters of water). You can use copper-containing preparations.

PEPPER, AUPLANT

In cold weather pepper and eggplant watering is not allowed, as the soil cools and the work of the root system and leaf apparatus deteriorates.

During flowering and setting fruits between waterings carry out refreshing waterings (5-10 liters of water per 1 m 2) to create an increased relative humidity, since the flowers fall off at low humidity.

It is better to loosen the aisles after watering or rain. Starting from the second loosening, the plants spud.

If pepper is grown in a greenhouse, then when the plant reaches a height of 20-25 cm, remove the top main stem. Pinched plants quickly begin to branch and form a crop. AT open field don't pinch the pepper, this technique delays the growing season.

Insufficiently complete pollination of flowers can cause the appearance of non-standard (crooked) fruits. To prevent this, it is necessary to shake the plants in hot, sunny, calm weather.

Lack of moisture in the soil, high air temperature cause woody stems, falling buds and leaves of both pepper and eggplant.

In open areas, it is necessary to protect plantings of pepper and eggplant from the wind with the help of backstage - plantings from tall crops that are planted in advance around the garden (beets, beans, chard, leeks).

Since the root system of pepper is located in the upper soil layer, loosening should be shallow (3-5 cm) and be accompanied by mandatory hilling.

Fresh manure is not applied under pepper and eggplant; this can cause the development of a vegetative mass to the detriment of flowering.

Young seedlings of pepper and eggplant, planted in open ground, do not withstand low positive temperatures (2-3 "C), however, in autumn, fruit-bearing plants withstand frosts down to -5" C.

top dressing. During flowering: for 100 liters of water - 5-6 kg of finely chopped nettle, 1 bucket of mullein, 10 tbsp. spoons (with a slide) of ash. For 1 plant - 1 liter. Top dressing "ferments" in a barrel for a week.

During fruiting plants are given two top dressings. First: for 100 liters of water - 0.5 buckets of chicken manure, 2 cups of nitroammofoska. For 1 plant - 1 liter. Or for 100 liters of water - 10 tbsp. spoons of Signor Tomato, for 1 plant - 1 liter.

Second top dressing- 12 days after the first: for 100 liters of water - 1 bucket of mullein, 1/4 bucket of bird droppings, 1 glass of urea. For 1 m 2 - 5-6 liters of solution. Or for 100 liters of water - 0.5 liters of Ideal, for 1 m 2 - 5 liters.

From time to time it is necessary to sprinkle the soil with ash: 1-2 cups per 1 m 2.

Another option for feeding eggplant. First feeding carried out 10-15 days after planting seedlings: for 10 liters of water - 40-

50 g of superphosphate, 10 g of ammonium nitrate or 30 g of urea, 15-20 g of potassium salt.

Second top dressing carried out 20 days after the first, while the dose of phosphorus and potash fertilizers is increased by 1.5-2 times.

Third top dressing- at the beginning of fruiting: for 10 liters of water - 60-80 g of urea, superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride. One watering can (10 l) is spent on 5 m 2. Plants must be watered after each feeding. clean water to avoid fertilizer burns.

CUCUMBER

Root secretions of oats have a detrimental effect on a number of soil pathogens. In early spring, 100-150 g of oats are sown per 1 m 2 and, when the seedlings reach a height of 15-20 cm, the bed intended for cucumbers is dug up, planting oat plants in the soil. You can sow oats in the fall, after harvesting cucumber lashes.

Dill helps to increase the yield of cucumber.

Onions and radishes planted near cucumber and tomato plantations repel spider mites.

Onions and garlic will save the cucumber from bacteriosis. As the arrows grow, they must be cut so that phytoncides stand out more strongly.

Never plant cucumbers next to roses - ants will drag aphids from roses to cucumbers.

When growing cucumbers in the wings, very good conditions for growth and development. Plants start fruiting 3-5 days earlier. In addition, you can additionally get a coulisse crop, the best of which are corn, dill and sunflower.

Shoots of cucumber appear on the 5-7th day. But at low temperatures or too early sowing, they can appear only for 15-20 days.

The bitterness of the fruit depends on the variety and growing conditions. More bitter substance cucurbitacin accumulates in varieties with a dark green color, closer to the base. Cucumbers are bitter when grown during short-term droughts, on sunny, hot days, with a lack of nutrients in the soil. In these cases, fruit growth slows down, the ripening period lengthens and, as a result, more cucurbitacin accumulates.

Cucumber at the beginning of the growing season absorbs nitrogen more intensively than other elements, then potassium consumption increases (whips grow rapidly at this time), then more nitrogen is consumed again, which is associated with a new growth of shoots and the onset of fruiting. The optimal ratio of nutrients nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in cucumber plants is 2:1:3.

As the plants grow, the roots of the cucumber are exposed, they need to be covered with fresh, moistened soil. The lower node of the stem is also bored. Adding moist soil promotes the formation of additional roots.

With a lack of nitrogen in the soil, the cucumber leaves become pale green, then turn yellow and fall off. With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves become dark green with a purple tint, and turn black when they die. The lack of potassium in the soil is indicated by a border along the edges of the leaves, first pale green, then brown or brown and brown spots in the middle of the sheet. Slow, weakened growth, drooping and death of growth points indicate a lack of calcium. The disappearance of the green color of the leaves, the appearance of yellow spots between the veins of the leaf, then browning and dying off are signs of a lack of magnesium in the soil.

With a lack of iron, the tops of the shoots are affected, the leaves become pale green, then turn yellow, but do not die. Yellowing of the leaves is noted with a lack of magnesium, and darkening of the tips of the leaves is a sign of a lack of copper. With a boron deficiency, the apical buds die, the leaves fall off, and flowering is inhibited.

It is impossible that depressions remain near the root neck of plants - they linger irrigation water, and this leads to cracking of the root neck, which causes root rot and the plants die.

The ovaries turn yellow and fall off due to the fact that they remain unfertilized. This is associated with prolonged, cold and damp weather, when insects do not fly.

top dressing. At the beginning of flowering: for 10 liters of water - 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, urea, superphosphate and 1 cup of mushy mullein (or 1 tablespoon of sodium humate).

During fruiting 3 feedings are required. First: for 10 liters of water - 1 cup of mushy chicken manure and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska, per 1 m 2 - 5 liters.

Second- 10-12 days after the first feeding: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein and 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate (or for 10 liters of water - 1 tablespoon of Fertility). For 1 m 2 - 5-6 liters.

Third- 12 days after the second: for 10 liters of water - 0.5 liters of mullein or 1 cup of mushy chicken manure, 1 tbsp. spoon of nitroammophoska (or 1 tbsp. Bogatyr spoon). For 1 m 2 - 5-10 liters. Mullein and chicken manure can be replaced with sodium humate, Ideal, Breadwinner, Fertility, Giant - 1 tbsp each. spoon.

For root rot: 2 tbsp. tablespoons of copper sulfate - for 10 liters of water, 1 glass per plant. If cucumber leaves become prickly and rough after fruiting: 1 tbsp. dilute a spoonful of urea in 10 liters of water, spray on the leaves.

TOMATO

During flowering, it is desirable to shake the flower brushes so that the ripened pollen spills out of the anthers and falls on the stigma of the pistil. It is better to do this daily, in the middle of the day.

If by chance the top breaks off when transplanting tomatoes, the plant will still take root, and the lateral shoot will take over the role of the top.

When planting overgrown seedlings, plants should be planted at an inclination of 30-45 ° to the ground to the north. Then Sun rays"raise" it to a vertical position.

Loosen the soil after each watering and rain. In hot, dry weather, loosening helps to reduce the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and in rainy and cold weather it provides better gas exchange between air and soil, and reduces the possibility of plant diseases from fungal diseases.

Irregular watering of plants in hot summers often leads to fruit disease with blossom end rot.

Tall (indeterminate) varieties are grown in one stem, in favorable weather - in two. In this case, the stepson serves as the second stem - an escape under the first flower brush. All other shoots - stepchildren are removed.

Undersized early ripe varieties can be grown without formation, but in rainy years they must be stepchild and tied to stakes.

The lower aging leaves are cut off in a timely manner.

An accidentally thrown cigarette butt near tomato plantings can infect plants with tobacco mosaic.

When planting seedlings in the ground, before flowering, when ovaries appear and at the beginning of fruit ripening, it is useful to add potassium permanganate to the water (2 g per 10 liters of water). This will have a good effect on growth, and then on the ripening of fruits, the tomatoes will turn out to be more sugary and resistant to late blight.

Tall varieties and hybrids are planted according to the scheme 70x70 cm, medium-sized - 60x60 cm and 50x50 cm, undersized - 50x40 cm and 50x30 cm.

Stepchildren are broken out, but in no case are they pulled out, since wounds form on the plant, where a fungal infection easily gets. If the side shoots are large, it is better to remove them with a sharp knife or scissors, leaving 1 cm long stumps, which will not allow a new shoot to form.

The shorter the growing season of a variety or hybrid, the less stepchildren are left and the thicker the plants can be planted.

Tall varieties are not very sensitive to lack of moisture, stunted ones tolerate dryness poorly.

Tomato water requirements are highest in the phase of flowering, ovary formation and intensive weight gain of fruits. No less harmful is excess water, which often leads to yellowing of the leaves and root rot.

Tomato is sensitive to chlorides, so do not fertilize the soil with potassium chloride. It is better to use potassium sulfate or wood ash.

Weak fruit set or lack of it - the reaction of the plant to too low or too high temperatures. The reason for the fall of ovaries and flowers may be an excess of nitrogen in the absence of phosphorus and potassium or boron and manganese. This often happens in low light.

Deformation of fruits and their cracking are associated with fluctuations in temperature and soil moisture.

When alternating plantings of tomatoes and white cabbage on the latter, there will be several times fewer leaf-eating pests.

top dressing. 7-10 days after planting in the ground feed the plants with a solution of nitroammophoska (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

3 weeks after landing in the ground dilute in 10 liters of water 0.5 kg of mullein and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska, for each plant - 0.5 liters of solution.

At the beginning of the blooming of the second brush: in 10 liters of water, dilute 0.2 liters of liquid chicken manure, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of double superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate. Under the root - 1 l.

Next top dressing- during the blooming of the third flower brush: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of working solution of sodium humate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska. For 1 m 2 - 5 liters.

After 12 days: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate. Feeding bucket - per 1 m 2.

Last top dressing- at the end of July. In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitroammophoska, superphosphate and potassium sulfate. For 1 plant - 0.5 l. Feed when pouring fruit.

To make fruits sweet: in 10 liters of water dissolve 1 tbsp. a spoonful of salt and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate. For 1 plant - 0.5 l. Feed when pouring fruit.

When shedding flowers: dissolve in 10 liters of water 1 teaspoon boric acid, when spraying, 10 liters of solution per 10 m 2 are consumed.

When twisting the leaves: dissolve 2 g of boric acid in 10 liters of water, pour 1 liter of solution under each plant.

Exclude superphosphate from dressings, and increase the dose of potash and nitrogen fertilizers to 30 g per 10 liters of water.

from viral diseases: dissolve in 10 liters of water 5 g of potassium permanganate, 10-15 g of boric acid. Under each plant - 1 liter.

If plants are affected by viral diseases, you can try the following remedy: clean the copper wire, pointed on one side, with an emery cloth, insert it into the stem of the plant (wire length is 3-4 cm, 2-3 things are inserted into the stem).

It is necessary to monitor the condition of the plants and timely introduce the necessary nutrients into the soil.

If the plants are stunted and have a pale color, tomato plants must be fed with a 1:10 solution of mullein.

If the plants "fatten", intensively increase the green mass to the detriment of fruit formation, nitrogen fertilizers are excluded from top dressing.

If the leaves on the underside become purple hue, plants lack phosphorus. Excess phosphorus causes yellowing of the leaves.

Plants dry up, and the fruits acquire a variegated color with a lack of potassium. With its excess, matte spots appear on the leaves.

fruit crops

APPLE TREE

Pollination of flowers occurs with the help of insects, among which the honey bee occupies the first place. It pollinates up to 95% of flowers.

Inactive forms of lime(lime and dolomite flour, lime tuff, chalk) can be applied to the soil along with manure, peat and compost, and mixed or composted with organic fertilizers. Nitrogen from manure is not lost. burnt or slaked lime, burnt dolomite, cement dust, shale ash applied separately from organic fertilizers. Do not mix lime with phosphate rock, otherwise the solubility of phosphate rock decreases and, consequently, its effectiveness. The apple tree grows well on deeply cultivated soils. Even when loosening a soil layer of 45 cm with fertilization, young trees develop a deeper root system in the first years. When applying mineral fertilizers to landing pits their direct contact with the roots should be avoided, since potassium kills the roots of rooted plants. Contact roots with nitrogen fertilizers is also dangerous. As organic fertilizers, high-quality compost, semi-rotted manure or humus is used. Fresh manure is detrimental to the seedling, as it forms a large amount of gaseous ammonia.

Fertilizers and application rates in the hole under the apple tree: organic - or 20-25 kg of compost, or 20-25 kg of humus, or 20-25 kg of rotted manure; phosphoric - or 150-200 g of superphosphate, or 75-100 g of double superphosphate, or 450-600 g of phosphate rock; potash - or 60-80 g of potassium chloride, or 80-110 g of potassium sulfate, or 500 g of wood ash.

Adult apple tree per day spends 200-250 liters of water. In winter, a tree every day loses 250-400 g of water.

On the loam organic fertilizers are applied 1 time in 3-5 years, on the lungs(sandy) - annually or every 1-2 years (on sandy loam). Peatlands fertilize in the same way as light soils, but at half the rate.

Organic, phosphate and potash fertilizers applied both in winter and autumn. But it is better to fill the soil with phosphorus and potash fertilizers from autumn (in September). During the autumn-winter period, they manage to penetrate deeper than during the spring application (chlorine is washed out of potassium chloride during the winter).

Nitrogen or complete mineral fertilizers(if phosphorus and potash were not introduced in the fall) they are applied in the spring.

When trees are weakened, their poor growth resort to fertilizing with slurry in the first half of the growing season ( June). Top dressing at a later date can interfere with the maturation of the wood.

Increase the calcium content in the soil possible by lime. The most effective use of cement dust, shale ash, phosphogypsum.

The fight against codling moth: cook compote from dried apples (you can dry the carrion in advance), hang containers with compote in the crown of a tree during the summer of the codling moth.

Aphid control:

1. 
   2 tbsp. tablespoons of ammonia dissolve in 10 liters of water, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of shampoo or liquid soap. Spray trees when aphids appear.


2. 
   Pass 300 g of fresh citrus peels (or 30 g of dry ones) through a meat grinder, pour 1 liter of water. Infuse for 5-6 days, dilute with water 1:10 before use.


3. 
   Grind the garlic and add water (1:1), keep for 10 days in a dark place. When spraying on 10 liters of water, it is enough to take 20 g of infusion.


4. 
   Green (1.5 kg) or dry (700 g) potato tops pour 10 liters of water, leave for 4 hours or boil over low heat for 15 minutes. Infusion or decoction is used only freshly prepared.


5. 
   200 g of onion peel pour 10 liters of warm water, leave for 5 days, strain, spray the affected plants 3 times with an interval of 5 days.

CURRANT, GOOSEBERRY

lack of moisture delays the growth of bushes, and during the period of formation and filling of berries leads to their grinding and shedding. It is especially important to water blackcurrant bushes during intensive growth and formation of ovaries (early June) and during the period of berry filling (third decade of June-first decade of July). The soil is moistened to the depth of the root layer, approximately 30-40 cm. The estimated water consumption is 20-30 liters per 1 m 2.

June. Berry bushes, especially on light sandy soils, are fed with slurry (1 liter per 1 bucket of water) or bird droppings infusion (0.5 liters per 1 bucket of water). 1 bucket is spent on 2-3 bushes. Or, under each fruit-bearing bush, 10-15 g of urea, 20 g of superphosphate, 10-15 g of potassium sulfate are added. Top dressing is best combined with watering.

Additionally foliar top dressing is carried out, spraying the plants with micronutrient fertilizers. In 10 liters of water dissolve 1-2 g of copper sulfate, 2-2.5 g of boric acid, 5-10 g of manganese sulfate, 2-3 g of zinc sulfate, 2-3 g of ammonium molybdate. Or treat the plants with a special set of trace elements, which are now sold in all specialized stores.

Late September-early October organic fertilizers (10-15 kg per bush) and mineral fertilizers are applied: phosphorus (80-120 g of superphosphate), potash (30-50 g of potassium chloride).

You can also use this option for top dressing.

After flowering. 3 matchbox urea (without slides) dissolve in 10 liters of water. Pour 1 bucket of top dressing into the center of the bush.

2-3 weeks after flowering. 1 st. dilute a spoonful of nitroammophoska in 10 liters of water. 1 bucket of solution is poured into the center of the bush.

When pouring berries. Dissolve 2 matchboxes (without a slide) of potash fertilizer in 10 liters of water. Pour 1 bucket of solution into the center of the gooseberry bush. For currants, dissolve 1 matchbox of urea in 10 liters of water. Currant is sensitive to chlorine, so potassium chloride is applied under it only in autumn. A good potash fertilizer for currants is wood ash and potassium sulfate.

Red gall aphid . For 10 liters of water - 2 tbsp. spoons of tobacco dust, 50 g of laundry soap. Infuse for 2 days, strain, add 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea. Sprinkle red currants 2-3 times during the season.

RASPBERRY

Raspberry flowers do not require cross pollination, but placing several varieties on the site contributes to more stable, abundant harvests.

In April, when the soil is still saturated with moisture, 1 fertilizing bushes with nitrogen fertilizers(10-15 g of ammonium nitrate or 10 g of urea per 1 m 2). At the same time they spend first spring loosening of the soil- by 8-10 cm. Subsequent loosening is carried out to a depth of no more than 5-6 cm (the raspberry root system is located close to the surface and can be damaged with deeper loosening). Final loosening- after harvesting. One of the most important activities for the care of raspberries - soil mulching. Use dry peat (10-15 cm or 7-8 cm thick) or straw (10-15 cm). In autumn, the mulching material is embedded in the soil.

During the formation of ovaries bushes are fertilized with mineral fertilizers (15-20 g of ammonium nitrate, 30-40 g of superphosphate, 20-25 g of potassium salt per 1 m of a row). As a top dressing, you can use slurry diluted with water 1: 5, for 1 bush - 0.5 l of top dressing solution.

Raspberries need watering, without sufficient moisture, it reduces the yield several times.

After harvest the fruiting shoots are removed, leaving 5-7 of the best ones, tied to a wire and shortened at a height of 150 cm.

To increase fruiting in the first years after planting, spend June pinch. In shoots reaching a height of 60-90 cm, a five-centimeter top is cut off. The underlying buds wake up, and the shoot branches, due to which the number of buds on the shoot as a whole increases. The following year, the plants bear fruit very abundantly.

autumn humus (4-5 kg), phosphate and potash fertilizers (6-8 g per 1 m 2) are introduced under deep loosening

CHERRY

In early spring when loosening, nitrogen fertilizers are applied - 50-70 g of urea per 1 m 2. Nice results give top dressing with liquid organic or mineral fertilizers before flowering and at the beginning of active shoot growth. To do this, manure is diluted in water in a ratio of 1: 9 and applied at the rate of 1 bucket per 1 m 2 of the trunk circle. Liquid mineral fertilizers are prepared as follows: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of saltpeter (calcium or potassium) is dissolved in 10 liters of water and applied to 1 m 2 of the soil surface under the crown of a tree. Immediately sprinkle the soil with peat to reduce the loss of moisture during evaporation.

For setting a large number of fruits and better laying fruit buds(next year's harvest) it is useful to repeat liquid root dressings with organic or mineral fertilizers. Gives good results foliar top dressing- spraying the crown with a solution of urea (50 g per 10 liters of water). Should be planted in the garden several varieties of cherries. For good mutual pollination, especially when choosing self-fertile varieties, it is important that pollinated varieties and pollinators be close in terms of flowering, fruiting time, fruit ripening and plant longevity. Cherry is pollinated by insects, pollination proceeds normally if the pollinated variety is located at a distance of no more than 50 m from the pollinator variety. foliar nitrogen fertilization: the first time 10 days after flowering, the second - 2 weeks after the first. The consumption of urea in this case is 40-50 g per 10 liters of water.

STRAWBERRY

Planting strawberries several times a season loosen. This provides good air access to the roots of plants, enhances microbiological processes in the soil, and retains moisture in it. In the middle of the row spacing, the loosening depth should be 8-10 cm, closer to the rows - 4-5 cm. Starting from 2 years after planting, strawberries can be fed in early spring and after harvest: 1 part of mullein to 5 parts of water with the addition of 60 g of superphosphate and 100-150 g of wood ash to 1 bucket of a solution. They are fed as follows: on both sides of the strawberry rows, grooves are made 4-5 cm deep and a fertilizer solution is applied - 1 bucket per 3-4 m. After fertilizing, the grooves are covered with earth and watered. You can feed strawberries according to the following scheme.

Beginning of the growing season. Dissolve a pinch of boric acid in 10 liters of water, iron sulphate, copper sulfate, potassium permanganate, 40 drops of iodine. Pour from a watering can directly over the leaves. Or dissolve in 10 liters of water 3 g of potassium permanganate, 1/2 teaspoon of iodine, 2 g of boric acid, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of urea, 1/2 cup of ash. Under each bush add 1 liter of solution. Or dissolve 1 teaspoon of trace elements in 10 liters of water, for each bush - 0.5 liters of solution.

Beginning of flowering and ovary growth. Spray the plants with a solution of zinc sulfate - 1-2 g per 10 liters of water.

Bookmark flower buds(August). Spray the plants with a solution of urea - 1 matchbox per 10 liters of water.

Weevil fightm. Dilute 0.5 liters of vinegar in 5 liters of water, sprinkle the plants, repeat several times.

Summer is the hottest time for gardeners and gardeners, and not only because the sun is hot outside. At this time it is necessary to great amount work, otherwise you will not get a good harvest. Fertilizing the soil in the summer is one of the main and mandatory things. This procedure can be either single or multiple, it all depends on the quality of the soil and the types of plants growing on it. In the summer, two types of top dressing are used, which can be classified as urgent and planned.

Urgent top dressing

This type of application of enhanced nutrition for a plant is used when it needs to be saved, and this is visible to the naked eye. You have to act immediately, so you need to use exactly those fertilizers for the garden or garden that quickly move from the soil complex to the roots, otherwise there will be no sense in such top dressing.

garden and horticultural crops begin to die quickly with an insufficient amount of one of the three main elements of the NPK complex - nitrogen, phosphorus and calcium. The plant wilts before our eyes, and the whole process can take literally a few days. What element is missing for feeding in the summer can be determined by external signs, which will be discussed below.

Nitrogen

This element is the most important at the initial stage of growth. If you notice that plantings are growing slowly, most likely they are not enough. Also, many other signs indicate the lack of this element. For example, pale or chlorotic leaf color, weak sprouts and shoots, yellowing of leaves. You can improve the situation with the help of both and fertilizers.

Diluted will help to quickly and efficiently feed greens and root crops with nitrogen at the initial stage of their growth, provided that it is at hand.

Both humus and fresh fraction are used, but they are bred in different proportions. . Fresh -1:15, and never pour the resulting solution under plant root, because it can be burned. It is better to draw grooves between the rows of plants, and shed the resulting solution.

traditional and popular nitrogen fertilizer– based on manure and/or any organic residues

But dry mullein in liquid form can be used with less caution. His bred somewhat thicker - 1:10, and poured even into the near-stem holes of plants, but, nevertheless, in such a way that the resulting suspension does not penetrate directly to the stem of the plant. Therefore, when applying this fertilizer for the garden exactly into the holes, it is necessary to immediately mix the upper soil layer, localizing the mullein near the surface, and protecting the roots and stem from direct contact with it.

Also, in emergency cases, for a quick supply of nitrogen, mineral fertilizers are used, such as. This fat contains a large amount of nitrogen, up to 46%, and it is in an easily digestible form.

Phosphorus

If the leaves of tomatoes have acquired a rich purple hue, they need to be fed. The lack of this element at the start of growth inhibits the development of plants, and during the ripening of fruits, its absence negatively affects their taste. Most often, phosphorus starvation occurs not even in fast-growing plants, whose growing season is no more than a season, but in garden centenarians - fruit trees and berry bushes. This is due to elementary forgetfulness. After all, the garden is so stable, and usually they don’t expect surprises from it, annually introducing standard nitrogen supplements, and completely forgetting about fertilizing the garden with phosphorites. For several years, the trees live on old stocks, but at one far from perfect moment they run out, and the tree starts to hurt sharply.

A change in the color of the foliage, abundant shedding of flowers, crushing of fruits and a deterioration in their taste - all this indicates a severe lack of phosphorus in the soil. In this case, urgent fertilization of the land under, pears, plums and other fruit trees is required. But phosphorus is not the fastest acting element. Simple will take too long to digest, so with urgent top dressing, which is brought in in the summer outside the plan, recommend the use of azofoska or diammofoska. Phosphorites are in the composition of these fats in a more accessible form, and in a diluted state, they begin to act in a couple of days.

Potassium

Most often, the urgent application of fertilizers rich in this element, required either at the beginning of growth (after transplanting seedlings into the ground), or before the start of fruit formation. How to identify that the plant is dying precisely because of the lack of this element? The first "bell" will be the yellowing and drying of the tips of the leaves of melons and nightshade crops. Similar manifestations of the imbalance of essential substances are more common in plants in the greenhouse, since in the open field the balance of potassium, at least partially, is renewed naturally. But in closed ground usually there are only those substances that are introduced during the renewal of the soil and top dressing of crops in the summer. Almost all of the obtained substances are usually consumed by plants during the growing season almost completely. The manure or compost introduced by most gardeners does not compensate for these losses, since these fertilizers mainly contain nitrogen and trace elements.

signs of potassium deficiency in plants

That's why it is advisable to make it not even in the summer, but during the digging of the greenhouse. But if this has not been done, then urgent feeding is required when the first signs of its shortage appear, otherwise the harvest may not be expected. The fastest way to bring this substance to the plant's metabolic system is to spray it with a solution of potassium humate. This is one of the most effective ways support a mature plant.

But if signs of potassium deficiency appeared in seedlings, then they act as follows. Take 0.5 cups, dissolve it, stirring, in a liter of boiling water, allow to cool. Then the resulting solution is once again diluted in a ratio of 1:5, and seedlings of peppers, eggplants and tomatoes are watered with this mixture. It is also possible to use solutions of mineral fertilizers, in accordance with the instructions.

Planned top dressing

Fertilizing in the summer is recommended, focusing on a specific schedule. The fact is that garden and garden plants have peaks in the consumption of macro-and, and knowing the time of their onset, you can more effectively use mineral and organic top dressing. So, let's break the schedule for the introduction of fats and organics by months.

June

This month, seedlings must be fed. They have already passed the adaptation period and have taken root both in the open field and in the greenhouse. Accordingly, they have used up a large amount of useful substances from the earth, and again they are needed in order to enhance their growth and development. Fertilizers applied in summer are used in June for the following crops:

July

This month is actively laying the foundation for the future harvest. Root crops are poured in the garden, fruits and berries are formed, heads of medium and late ripe cabbage are tied. She needs to be fed first.

• Cabbage of medium and late dates ripening in July, it will gratefully respond to top dressing from phosphorus and nitrogen. For example, it can be spilled with diluted azophos or diammophos. The following composition is also suitable - 3 tablespoons are taken for 10 liters of water. simple superphosphate and 1 tsp. ready mix of trace elements. A well-diluted composition is used to feed late varieties of cabbage in summer, spending about 0.5-0.7 liters per well.

• Cauliflower fed at the beginning of the month. Depending on the timing of the planting of her seedlings, at this time her head begins to form, or her head is already actively forming. To get a good harvest even in the country, you need to feed the plant during this period. The best fertilizer would be nitroammophoska earth, diluted in water, in the ratio of 2 matchboxes of nitroammophoska per 10 liters of water.
• At the end of July, the last feeding of onions is carried out, grown for turnips. To do this, potassium salt (150 g) is mixed with superphosphate (200 g), and applied to a garden area equal to 10 sq.m. You can mix fertilizer with water, or sprinkle it into the grooves drawn with a twig along the rows.
• top dressing in July, the procedure is mandatory. It is treated twice - the first time it is shed with a solution of boric acid (2 g per 10 l of water to prevent rotting of the core), and the second time it is fed with potassium (2 tablespoons of ash per 10 l of water).

August

This month, soil nutrition is produced under perennials, for example, produce garden fertilizer. They do this only for early ripe fruit trees, and fruiting shrubs. Also during this period, plants are fed, the harvest from which will be carried out only in September.

Fertilizers applied in summer have the most positive effect on crop growth. They help to form high-quality products with good taste data. You can use both organic and mineral fertilizers, or a combination of these two types, it all depends on individual preferences. Can stick various schemes and application schedules, depending on the type of soil in the country house or on an individual plot of land.

But always rigorously one rule must be followed:

The last application of fertilizers or organics must be made no later than two weeks before harvest.

Only in this case, soil fertilization in summer will bring only positive results, and the finished fruit and vegetable products will not contain nitrates and other harmful substances.

Video: summer plant fertilizer - expert opinion

timely and proper feeding apple orchard summer is guarantee of a good harvest. At this time, the trees actively use a large amount of minerals that they need for a full-fledged pouring of fruits.

Also during this period, the growth of young shoots stops and the laying of flower buds begins, which consumes a fairly large amount of phosphorus and potassium. In this article, we will tell you what and how to fertilize your trees in the summer.

Basic fertilizers for an apple tree in the summer is:

• Urea. Belongs to the nitrogen group. Helps trees to grow the necessary leaf mass and young shoots;
• Nitrophoska. It consists of the three most important elements involved in the nutrition of the apple tree: nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Promotes the filling of fruits and the laying of flower buds;
• Mullein. organic fertilizer. Serves as a source of nitrogen, humic acids and trace elements;
• chicken manure. Also belongs to the group of organic fertilizers. Contains in its composition a large amount of nitrogen and trace elements.

The use of urea as a fertilizer.

Terms of application

Now let's figure it out when to feed an apple tree in summer. Top dressing is carried out according to the following scheme:

1. June. At this time, the trees are actively growing young shoots. At this time, young, but not yet fruitful trees, as well as those apple trees that have been badly damaged by pests or during winter, need to be fed at this time. They need to be given urea and mullein solution;
2. July. Right now, the main burden falls on the apple tree. It is necessary to feed them during this period with nitrophoska, mullein or chicken droppings. You can learn more about feeding apple trees in July from;
3. August. Autumn varieties they are just beginning to pour the fruits, so they are fed with nitrophoska, mullein or chicken droppings. More complete information about feeding apple trees in August.

Basic application methods

Exists classical scheme how to feed apple trees in summer with fertilizers of any type. According to her summer top dressing apple trees are carried out in the evening, which, in the summer heat, avoids unnecessary evaporation of moisture, at a distance of 50 cm from the trunk. Procedure while the following:

1. Before making the soil around the apple tree must be watered;
2. Then, as evenly as possible, spill the moistened soil with the fertilizer solution;
3. Water again.

Be sure to water the soil before and after fertilizing!

foliar top dressing

In some cases, top dressing for an apple tree in summer includes foliar method making. It allows as quickly as possible satisfy the tree's need for nutrients. The principle of its action is based on the ability of leaves and bark to absorb elements from the fertilizer solution with their surface.

Foliar top dressing of apple trees in summer - this is an emergency measure and it is used most often with abundant fruiting.

It is carried out with an interval of 10-15 days. For this, fertilizers are usually used with high content micronutrients such as copper, boron, iron and so on.

Attention! It is impossible to spray apple trees with a fertilizer solution if less than 3 weeks remain before harvest.

How to fertilize an apple tree in summer for those who does not want to use chemo for foliar application? You can recommend the following method:

1. Pour a liter jar of wood ash into a 10 liter bucket of warm water;
2. Then mix the resulting solution and strain;
3. Now it can be used for spraying.

wood ash- natural fertilizer.

Top dressing of apple trees in the summer in the Moscow region.

The apple tree is one of the most common in the Moscow region fruit crops. To get a good harvest in this region, you will need to carry out timely top dressing with mineral and organic fertilizers. How to feed an apple tree in June, July (no feeding is carried out in August)?

1. The first top dressing can be made already early or mid June. Usually at this time, the trees experience a lack of nitrogen. To eliminate the lack of this element, they need to be sprinkled urea solution;
2. In July you can start the second feeding. At this time in the Moscow region very often there is a shortage of rain. If the weather is dry and dry, then it would be better to choose foliar method making. If everything is in order with precipitation, then classic scheme, described above.

For July top dressing is mainly used phosphorus-potassium group, but this does not mean at all that you need to abandon nitrogen.

The greatest effect will complex mineral fertilizer, for example, nitrophoska.

Attention! Columnar apple trees need periodic feeding more than others, because they have quite a lot of fruits on a small number of branches that require intensive nutrition.

You can learn more about top dressing in the summer from the video below:

Watering and feeding in the summer it is quite simple to carry out and does not require any special skills. But they are the ones with proper and timely use. able to provide a significant increase in yield.

Timely watering and top dressing is the key to an excellent harvest.