Hydrangea plant death how to save. Why do hydrangea leaves dry around the edges. Nutrient deficiency

lush bush hydrangeas can decorate any country cottage area or a window sill, but all this beauty can sometimes be greatly spoiled by diseases. In a garden and indoor flower, the diseases practically do not differ, so below we will study in detail how to cure hydrangea, regardless of its type and planting site.

How to cure chlorosis

Hydrangea garden can be affected by many diseases, and one of the most ferocious is chlorosis. Due to this disease, the leaves of the plant become pale or turn yellow, while the veins on them become very dark. If you do not pay attention to these symptoms in time, over time the plant will lose its beauty, since all these signs are evidence of malnutrition, in particular, a lack of iron.

Therefore, wherever you plant a hydrangea, regularly feed it with special fertilizers containing iron elements. Water the flower should be soft water collected during the rain. Also, avoid planting garden hydrangeas in lime-enriched soil, and try to minimize the use of humus to feed them.

But if the disease has already manifested itself, it is recommended to spray hydrangea bushes with one of the following drugs:

• Iron Chelate;
• Antichlorosis;
• Ferovit;
• Ferrilene;
• Micro Fe;
• Brexil.

In addition to spraying, these preparations can also be applied under the root of the plant, but only in very small doses. Also, a solution made from 40 g of potassium nitrate and the same amount is used against hydrangea chlorosis. iron sulphate diluted in 10-15 liters of water. Such a solution can be watered with flowers both in flowerpots and in a flower bed: we feed 2-3 times with saltpeter, then with iron sulphate, until the traces of the disease disappear.

Gray rot: methods of struggle

Gray rot is no less dangerous for hydrangeas, since its affected stems and flowers become very soft, watery, which eventually leads to their death. In this case, lesions can appear on leaves and stems as dots, which dry out and spill out in hot weather, leaving behind unsightly holes. If the weather is damp, then the disease will spread rapidly, and “gray wool” will also form over the affected areas.

It is very difficult to get rid of gray rot on garden hydrangea, since this disease is inherent in almost everyone. garden plants, and hydrangea can be re-infected. Nevertheless, if you regularly remove and burn all disease-affected areas and spray the flower with the preparations "Skor", "Chistotsvet" or "Fundazol", then soon all the symptoms will surely disappear.

Did you know? Another name for hydrangea is hydrangia. It arose due to the fact that this flower is very fond of abundant watering.

Flower cancer: how to treat the disease

This disease began to occur in the flowerbeds of hydrangea fans not so long ago, since the European flower cancer arrived at our dachas along with imported varieties. Despite this, cancer is quite a danger to hydrangeas and is manifested by brown spots, under which ulcers form on the stems. The longer you ignore this disease, the more it will progress - the sores will deepen, the stems will begin to die off first in places, and then completely. The result is one - the hydrangea can completely dry out.

There can be many reasons for the defeat of bushes with cancer: infected planting material, poor feeding, due to hail-damaged areas, with too dense planting of bushes. To cope with cancer, it is necessary to apply a whole range of measures:

1. At the first sign of illness, try to remove all affected areas on the flower and burn them.
2. If the cancer also appears on the roots, the bush must be completely removed and burned.
3. Provide flowers with all the necessary mineral and organic elements, which will increase the resistance of hydrangeas to different kind diseases.

When yellow-green spots appear on hydrangea leaves, which become darker and clearer over time, you should prepare to fight such a disease as powdery mildew because all these signs are its symptoms. It is clear that such leaves will not be able to remain on the stems for a long time and will soon begin to fall off.

If fungus powdery mildew will hit the young shoots of hydrangea, they will become deformed and will not be able to develop enough to survive the next winter. At the initial stages of the development of the disease, hydrangea bushes are recommended to be sprayed with fungicides, which are represented by Alirin-B and Fitosporin-M preparations.

In the event that powdery mildew has conquered most of the plant, spraying with such preparations will help save the flower:

• Pureflower;
• Thiovit Jet;
• Speed;
• Topaz;
• Strobe;
• Cumulus.

Important! In no case do not touch the hydrangea inflorescences (for example, to remove flowers that have already withered). Such interference can severely damage the plant, as a result of which unblown inflorescences may not open.

Leaf Warping: How to Cure Ring Spot

Ring spot, which leads to deformation of the leaves of the plant, is the most common viral disease of this flower. The disease develops gradually: at first, small lesions in the form of spots with fuzzy contours of the ring appear on the leaves of the hydrangea, then they dry them out and make them deform, making them asymmetrical.

When a flower is severely affected by ring spot, it may not even bloom, or the bloom will be very weak. Unfortunately, it is impossible to get rid of this disease. The only measure that will help you prevent it is to carefully select seedlings for your flower bed.

stem nematode

Among the diseases of room hydrangea, as well as its garden relative, there is also a stem nematode. The nematode is a very small worm that develops especially intensively in a humid environment, affecting not only the stems, but also the roots of the plant, as well as their leaves. Under the influence of nematodes, the normal development of the plant stops, over time it may die.

If your hydrangea is also struck by stem nematodes, it is recommended to destroy the plant, since it is almost impossible to deal with them, but they can very quickly move to other plants, including cultivated ones. The fact is that nematodes can spread both with the soil, and through pots, and even with drops of water that drain from the plant after watering, and by using equipment during processing.

Important! The crown of garden hydrangea lends itself perfectly to formation. To do this, you just need to regularly trim the tops of its young shoots. Spherical bushes look especially attractive.

This is a fungal disease that is often found on hydrangeas. It is very difficult to cope with it, since its pathogens - sclerotia - are able to maintain their vital activity in plant residues forgotten on the ground after harvesting.

This type of rot first acts on the hydrangea root system, leading to its decay and stopping the supply. nutrients to the stems of the flower, which eventually turns brown and dries completely. At the same time, if the disease has affected young stems, they will not only begin to wither and turn brown, but rot will also begin to progress on them, on top of which a cotton-like coating will form. white color. It is impossible to allow the formation of this plaque, since sclerotia will form under it, which can completely infect your entire flower garden.

Thus, hydrangea affected by white sclerocial rot should be removed immediately from the flower bed, thereby stopping the development of the disease.

- an amazing flowering plant that can decorate a room, terrace, balcony, flower garden or garden.

Lush bushes with bright green foliage are strewn with flower caps of various delicate shades: white, pink, red, lilac, blue. I would like to always see such a plant healthy and blooming, but some problems may arise in the process of growing.

Hydrangea is quite resistant to diseases and pests. but still requires constant care and attention. The whims of nature and improper care may give rise to various diseases. In this case, it is important to identify the problem in time and know how to solve it correctly and quickly.

In the article you will see everything about hydrangeas and plant treatment, as well as photos of problems.

External stimuli

In addition to pest infestation and pronounced diseases, there are external factors that negatively affect the beauty and health of hydrangeas. For example, yellowing of the leaves can be caused by such irritants:

• Bright scorching sun. The plant prefers to be in partial shade, so too much light can be harmful.
• Overmoistening of the soil. Although hydrangea loves moisture, excessive water accumulation can cause foliage to turn yellow.
• Lack of fertilizer. For growth and lush flowering hydrangea needs regular top dressing.
• Decreased acidity of the soil. The flower needs acidic soil (pH 3-6). Even the color of the flowers depends on the level of acidity: the more acidic the soil, the more purple and blue colors appear, the closer to neutral, white and pink shades predominate. To increase acidity, periodically during watering, add 2-4 drops of lemon juice to 1 liter of water.

Sometimes the foliage of the hydrangea begins to dry out and fall off. The reason also lies in external stimuli:

• Insufficient watering, especially in hot weather.
• Low humidity environment. This often happens in enclosed spaces, greenhouses. It is important to regularly ventilate and humidify the air.
• Lack of nutrients. Top dressing of hydrangeas is carried out 1 time in 7-10 days. This is especially important during bud formation and flowering.

Sometimes a grower may encounter blackening of hydrangea leaves. It can be dry or wet and is also caused by external factors.

Dry blackening manifests itself in the formation of brown spots on the edges of the leaves, which subsequently lead to the withering of the foliage. The reason may be:

• Hard water. Before watering, it is recommended to defend the water for at least a day;
• Sunburn. It is important to protect the plant from direct sunlight.

Wet blackening determined by the limp, darkened leaves. It may appear due to:

• Sudden temperature changes, drafts;
• excessive watering;
• Heavy soil that retains moisture and prevents breathing.

Hydrangea chlorosis

Chlorosis occurs due to a lack of iron in the soil or as a result of a metabolic disorder in the plant itself, as a result of which it cannot absorb iron.

The main sign of chlorosis is lightening and yellowing of the foliage.. At the same time, the veins on the leaves remain dark.

In addition, there may be a decrease in the size of the leaves, deformation of the buds, twisting of the leaf plates, drying of the shoots.

When a disease is detected, it is important to feed the plant with preparations containing iron in a chelate form, for example, Antichlorosis and Ferovit.

Also medicinal composition you can cook by yourself. To do this, dissolve in a liter of water 2 grams of iron sulfate and 4 grams citric acid. This solution should be sprayed with hydrangea leaves, and with an advanced form of the disease, and watered under the root.

Another way to treat hydrangea chlorosis is to use a solution of potassium nitrate and iron sulfate. To do this, 40 grams of potassium nitrate is diluted in a bucket of water. Hydrangea is watered with this solution 2-3 times. After 3 days, ferrous sulfate should be watered in the same concentration.

Fungal diseases of hydrangea

white rot begins with the defeat of the root system, since the pathogen fungus is in the soil. As a result, the plant cannot receive the necessary nutrients, turns brown and eventually dies.

A sign of illness on young hydrangeas is the darkening of the shoots and the appearance of a white coating on them, similar to cotton wool. If the flower is not treated, black blotches appear on the “cotton wool” - sclerotia.

To combat white rot, fungicides such as Fitosporin, Fundazol, Copper Chloroxide are effective.

Gray rot manifested in the softness and wateriness of hydrangea tissues. In a humid environment, a gray "fluff" appears on the plant. In dry weather, the affected parts dry up and die, leaving behind holes in the leaves and stems.

The first step in the fight against gray rot is the removal of the affected and dead parts. In the treatment of indoor types of hydrangea, Chistotsvet, Fundazol, Skor have proven themselves well. In case of garden hydrangea disease, it is recommended to treat Rovral Flo 255 SC three times with an interval of 3 weeks.

Septoria can be identified by dark brown spots on the leaves, 2-6 mm in diameter. Leaves gradually die and fall off.

Without treatment, the hydrangea can lose all foliage and die. With an advanced form of the disease, spots also appear on the shoots.

To get rid of septoria, all affected parts are removed, and the plant itself is treated with preparations containing copper, for example, copper oxychloride, copper sulphate.

powdery mildew It is determined by yellow-green spots on the leaves, which eventually become brown and acquire a clear shape.

On the back side leaves you can see a purple or gray bloom. Without treatment, the leaves fall off, and the young shoots affected by the fungus are deformed and do not survive the winter.

For the treatment of powdery mildew, fungicides are used: Fitosporin, Alirin. At advanced stages - Skor, Topaz, Thiovit Jet, Chistotsvet.

This article is often read:

Rust

A disease that is easily identified by a rusty coating on shoots, leaves and flowers.

The cause of the problem may be high density planting hydrangeas or an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

Fungicides Topaz, Falcon, Ordan are also effective. Dosage - according to the instructions.

ring spot

The most common viral disease of hydrangea is ring spot. At the beginning, it appears as blurry spots in the form of rings, about 2 cm in diameter.

Because of them, the leaves of the plant are deformed, wrinkled and eventually die. The disease affects the ability to lay buds: either the hydrangea completely loses it, or the flowers are weak and small.

Unfortunately, there is no cure for ring spot yet.

When planting, it is important to choose healthy seedlings., since this disease is transmitted through seedlings. And when propagating by cuttings, it is important to make sure that the mother plant is completely healthy.

Hydrangea pests

leaf aphid. The main harm that the hydrangea aphid causes is that it sucks the cell sap from the plant and leaves behind sugary secretions, which, in turn, serve as a food source for the dangerous soot fungus. Aphids reproduce very quickly.

As a result, the flower grows very slowly, and with a strong lesion, the leaves are deformed and turn yellow, top part hydrangeas may die off.

Aphids are very delicate, they do not attach tightly to the plant, so if there are not very many pests, you can get rid of them by watering the hydrangea with a powerful jet of water, while trying not to damage the flower. Washing with soapy water is also effective.

In advanced cases, when the aphid has formed entire colonies, it is necessary to use insecticides, for example, Fitoverma, Aktara, Sparks, Bison or Akarina. Aphids are eaten by ladybugs.

spider mite. It settles on the back side of the leaves. It can be identified by small yellow spots that merge over time into a marble pattern.

At high temperature and low humidity, it entangles the entire plant in 5-7 days.

In this case, a small cobweb and the pests themselves will be visible. As a result, the leaves dry up and fall off.

At the initial stage, you can get rid of the spider mite by treating the hydrangea with soapy water. If there are a lot of pests, it is necessary to use insecticides, such as Thiofos, Akarin, Lightning, Fitoverm.

Slug. Slugs often start up where the hydrangea plantings are too dense and thick. The harm they cause is eating the leaves of the plant.

You can get rid of this pest with the help of a granular preparation - Molluscocide. It spreads over the surface of the earth where slugs have been seen.

Prevention of diseases and pests

Prevention - the best treatment. If the hydrangea is healthy, it is unlikely to get sick, and if it does happen, it will endure the disease with firmness. If the plant is weakened, then viruses, fungi or pests can severely damage it.

What will become the prevention of diseases and pests and help grow a strong, healthy and beautiful flower:

• Correct location. In the scorching sun, the leaves and flowers begin to fade quickly. Therefore, it is optimal for hydrangeas to grow in partial shade;
• Sufficient watering. The plant loves moisture, so it is impossible to allow the soil to dry out. In hot summer days it is necessary to water the bush every other day;
• The right choice of soil - hydrangea will not survive on heavy alkaline soils. She needs an acidic, light soil that allows air and moisture to pass through well;
• Proper top dressing: at the end of spring, emphasis should be placed on nitrogen fertilizers, in summer - on phosphorus-potassium, and in autumn - mainly phosphorus;
• Preventive treatment of hydrangea wood. In the spring, before the start of the growing season, it is recommended to treat the hydrangea bush with copper sulfate at the rate of 100 grams per bucket of water. Another option is to use more modern drugs for preventive treatment - Topaz, Iskra, Fitosporin.

At proper care and constant care, the hydrangea will grow lush and beautiful. It will become a bright decoration of your house or garden!

Now you know everything about the diseases of the leaves and flowers of room and garden hydrangeas and their treatment, and also saw the photo.

Large-leaved hydrangea is able to decorate more open areas and interior spaces. Having provided the plant necessary care, you can count on bright inflorescences and lush greenery throughout the warm period of the year. Often, flower growers have to face problems when growing this heat-loving beauty. It is not so easy for a novice grower to identify the cause of a large-leaved hydrangea disease.

General information about hydrangea

Hydrangea or Hydrangea (lat. Hydrangea) is a genus of deciduous flowering shrubs of the Hydrangeaceae family, widely spread across the planet from southern latitudes. Flower growers appreciate the plant for its amazing decorative effect and relative unpretentiousness.

The genus Hortensia has about 100 species, most of which have adapted perfectly in Europe, delighting flower growers on open areas, in room conditions and greenhouses. For the first time in the northern latitudes, the plant came in 1820 from Japan.

The beautiful bush got its name in honor of Princess Hortense, sister of the Prince of the Holy Roman Empire, Karl-Heinrich of Nassau-Siegen. In the future, the flower began to be called Hydrangia, which in Greek means "a vessel with water." Florists have two versions of this name. The first is the similarity of its seed pods with a jug of water, the second is the high moisture-loving nature of the plant.

Most representatives grow in height from 1 to 3 meters, flowering begins from mid-spring to late autumn. Propagating hydrangea is quite simple. Cuttings taken from shoots after annual pruning to form a crown will be an excellent material for laying new plants.

Features of the content of the flower

Subtropical plants have a hard time adapting to the northern latitudes, while maintaining their inimitable decorative effect. Therefore, the owner should provide exotic pets with the most acceptable conditions of detention. In the case of hydrangea, care is not so difficult.

Lighting

Scattered intense light guarantees a bush of juicy foliage and abundant flowering. If it is not possible to place a hydrangea pot on a windowsill facing south or west side, you can artificially extend his daylight hours with additional lighting. It must be borne in mind that the scorching sun causes irreparable burns on the leaves, and prolonged absence sunlight gives the bush a lifeless look.

Watering

Hydrangea is hygrophilous. It is necessary to moisten the soil at the first sign of drying of the top layer. However, water should not linger in the pot. The death of the root system, and after it the entire aerial part, will cause flooding, in which the flower will “float” in a pot for several days. In hot, dry weather, the bush will be "grateful" for spraying from a spray bottle. At the same time, water drops should not remain on the leaf plates in order to avoid burns and the release of salts from the water.

Temperature conditions

The requirement for constant warmth is perhaps paramount to the care of hydrangeas. Moreover, it can be destroyed by a cold wind from the windows or drafts in the apartment. Optimal temperature regime to maintain life and form buds, it ranges from +25 to +300 C. winter period when the bush "falls asleep", the temperature should not fall below +160 C.

The soil

Hydrangea prefers acidic soil. If the bush is “forced” to grow in an alkaline environment, the leaves begin to turn yellow and crumble on it. Soil for planting can be purchased at specialized stores or made independently. This will require turf, leafy soil, peat chips and coarse sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 0.5.

fertilizers

As the buds form, the plant needs to be fed. These are mainly complex organic and mineral fertilizers, which must be applied in the form of aqueous solutions, stopping with the arrival of the winter dormant period.

Transfer

Hydrangeas are transplanted annually with the onset of spring, while pruning the stiff shoots. For transplantation, they buy a new, slightly larger pot and fill it with fresh soil, and the one in which the flower lived all prior year, are thrown away.

Hydrangea diseases

Unfortunately, flower growers note a high degree vulnerability of hydrangea to various diseases and pests when grown in middle latitudes. Some problems are easily eliminated by adjusting the conditions of the plant, however, despite this, an integrated approach is needed.

When the leaves of the hydrangea turn yellow, you should pay attention to many things:

1. Too much moisture. Being a moisture-loving culture, the flower does not like to be flooded. When water stagnates in a pot, the leaves turn yellow, curl and fall off.
2. Frequent drafts. Even when there is no active movement of air around the hydrangea pot, a slight draft can harm it. Yellow fading leaves will be a signal for a change of scenery.
3. Lack of minerals. If the plant is deprived of fertilizer, the leaves begin to wither and deform.
4. Abundant flowering. A large number of inflorescences depletes the plant, which invariably reflects on the leaves, causing yellowing.
5. Powdery mildew attack. One of the most common causes yellow leaves. At the beginning of the disease, a slightly noticeable grayish coating in the form of small spots appears on the leaves, which soon leads to wilting and shedding.
6. Ring spot. A disease of a bacterial nature that causes yellowing of the leaves and a noticeable deformation.
7. Ascochitous spotting. The result of the defeat is prematurely falling leaves.

Damage to hydrangeas by fungal infections does not manifest itself immediately. The leaves of the flower are the first to give out the development of the disease. Fungal infections can spread mostly from poorly maintained soil or come from the environment.

The following are considered the most dangerous:

Tracheomycotic wilt. Soil fungus persists on dead plant fragments remaining in the soil. Hits first root system, which begins to soften and turn brown, gradually turning into rot.

From the collapsing roots, the infection rises through the vascular system of the flower and fills the entire aerial part with pathogenic biological mass. Further, the influx of nutrients stops, as evidenced by fading shoots, yellowing leaves and sharply falling flowers. Cutting off a leaf of a diseased plant, you can find a characteristic plaque of mycelium.

White sclerocial rot. The fungus is found in the soil in plant debris. The roots, covered with sclerotia, stop the supply of nutrients to the aerial part of the plant. The crown of an infected flower acquires a brown tint, the leaves crumble, and the shoots and trunk are covered with a fluffy white bloom, in which black sclerotia of a bizarre shape are formed.

Gray rot. Hydrangea is most susceptible to this disease. The defeat is caused by soil pathogens that persist as black sclerotia. The stems of a diseased flower turn brown, covered with spots, the leaves wither and crumble. In the place of spots, ulcers open, from which dead fragments come out, leaving behind deep holes.

European cancer. The infection is often imported from planting material, affects literally all shrub cultures. Long brown stains appear on the stems and trunk, the bark dries up, cracks, opening the cracks of the ulcers. The wood is destroyed, the stems and leaves become lifeless. The infection circulates in the infected plant, being transmitted to the planting material.

Tubercular necrosis of the cortex. A common infection of shrubby plants, causing necrosis of the shoots and trunk. A progressive disease gives itself out as brown withering shoots and withering foliage. Further, it is already impossible not to notice the appearance of reddish lumps, from which sporulation begins. An infected plant is a danger to others.

Phyllostic spotting. The aerial part of the hydrangea is covered with dark red spots, turning the leaves and shoots into a necrotic mass, giving out dust emissions of spores.

Without understanding the cause of the damage to the hydrangea, it is dangerous to take any action on your own, this can lead to the inevitable death of the plant.

Hydrangea pests

There are many pests that hydrangeas are often exposed to. It is not difficult to recognize them. In addition to ticks and worms, hydrangea is “loved” by snails and slugs that inhabit the entire above-ground part of the bush.

Pests infect leaf plates, deform stems, and destroy the root system. If you leave a flower without providing the necessary assistance, it will die.

Treatment and prevention

The first question asked by novice growers who suspect a problem with their hydrangea is why the leaves turn yellow. Usually, an already progressive disease manifests itself with a similar symptom. Methods of struggle must be chosen in accordance with the root cause.

So, having completely eliminated drafts and improper watering, it is necessary to examine the soil in the pot and the condition of the root system and shoots. When pests are found, they are treated with fungicidal and insecticidal preparations, depending on the type of pest. A good effect in most cases will provide a 1% solution of Bordeaux liquid, which can be purchased at any flower shop.

Yellowing and wilting of the leaves often indicates a lack of iron in the soil. This condition is called chlorosis. Acidity can be stabilized by introducing a solution of vinegar essence into the loosened soil, which is prepared in the proportion: 1 teaspoon of essence per 10 liters of water. The desired effect will give a solution of citric or oxalic acid. In floricultural stores, an already prepared ferovit solution is available for sale.

Also, if timely mineral supplements, hydrangea quickly recovers and pleases the owner with its decorative effect. However, this only happens when the root system remains in normal condition. Rotting of the roots leads to irreversible processes and the death of the flower. It is not advisable to try to restore a plant from basal shoots or cuttings in which a pathogenic infection is already progressing.

It is productive to deal with leaf-eating and sucking pests, both with folk methods and with the help of special preparations. Large beetles and caterpillars that place their pupae in "houses" of twisted leaves should only be removed by hand. With the help of cotton swabs or sponges impregnated with an insecticidal preparation, the leaf plates and shoots are wiped.

Most pests are "afraid" of the solution laundry soap. It should be borne in mind that the use of soap containing caustic bleaches in its composition is strictly prohibited - along with insects, this will also destroy the flower.

In order to prevent the spread of various diseases of hydrangeas, at the first suspicion of their presence, it is recommended to spray with solutions of preparations:

• "Pure flower";
• "Cumulus";
• Thiovit Jet.

Having found in his hydrangea the defeat of gall nematodes, settling throughout the entire root system, the plant must be burned.

Some diseases of the large-leaved hydrangea help to overcome insects and birds by eating pests directly from the leaves and shoots. You can count on this type of “cure” if the flower is moved to open space in hot weather.

Like any other plants, hydrangeas are prone to disease and pest reproduction, although this happens extremely rarely. Sometimes flower growers notice that the leaves of the plant have turned yellow, aphids, a fungus, or a viral infection have appeared.

All the main diseases of garden hydrangea can be divided into two main groups according to the nature of their origin:

• fungal;
• viral.

Professional gardeners name several reasons for the defeat of this flowering plant of pests:

• soil contamination with pathogenic microorganisms;
• improper plant care;
• excessively high humidity and frequent temperature changes;
• lack of nutrients.

The main diseases of hydrangeas and their treatment

Chlorosis

Most often hydrangeas. With this disease, they turn yellow and fall off, dryness and brittleness of the branches appear, and a gradual grinding of the inflorescences is also noted. The disease is caused by a metabolic disorder, which usually occurs with a lack of iron. Plants planted on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis. An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis. The development of chlorosis can also be caused by watering the plant with cold and not settled water, excessive use of organic fertilizers.

Chlorosis should not be ignored, since this disease can lead to a complete loss of an attractive plant appearance. Moreover, the hydrangea may even stop blooming.

Control measures: At the first signs of the disease, the plant must be treated with a solution of potassium nitrate for 3 weeks: 40 g is diluted in 10 liters of water.

After this course of treatment for several days, the plant should be treated with a solution of iron sulfate in the same concentration. To prevent the development of chlorosis, hydrangeas should be periodically fed with fertilizers containing iron.

Gray rot

Gray rot is a fungal disease that can cause the death of hydrangeas. Rot affects the entire plant - leaves, stem, buds and even flower stalks. When tissues are affected by this fungus, their structure becomes soft and watery. A sign of the disease is the appearance of wet spots with a gray coating, which grow to quite large sizes. In dry weather, the stems of affected specimens dry out and fall off.

With the development of gray rot, rainy and damp weather is especially dangerous, because when high humidity the fungus spreads at a rapid rate, infecting new areas of the soil.

When these spots appear, you must immediately take measures to combat the disease. An important condition disease prevention is the destruction of diseased leaves.

Control measures: If the rot has not spread to the entire plant, only the affected parts of the hydrangea are removed, and healthy stems and leaves are treated with Bordeaux mixture or foundation. If the spots have spread to the stem, the plant must be dug up and destroyed.

white rot

White rot is a fungal disease that primarily affects the root system of a plant. The roots of hydrangea with the development of white rot begin to rot, as a result of which the plant does not receive the necessary nutrients. Soon the leaves and stems of the hydrangea turn brown and die off. The causative agent of white rot is a pathogenic fungus that enters the soil with plant remains.

In the case when white rot affects young specimens, it forms on leaves and shoots. white coating, resembling cotton wool in its appearance. After some time, black dots - sclerotia - can be found in this plaque. Fungicidal preparations, such as Fitosporin, are effective against white rot.

powdery mildew

There are two types of this fungal disease that affects hydrangea:

• downy mildew, or Peronosporosis;
• real.

Less commonly, hydrangea suffers from downy mildew. It affects the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later turning yellow spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears below the leaves, the same coating can be on young stems. The development of the disease is facilitated by high humidity and a temperature of 18-20 ° C.

Control measures: In the early stages of the development of the fungus, you can get rid of it by treating the affected plants with a copper-soap liquid (150 g of green soap, 15 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water). This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease. If it was not possible to get rid of the fungus, then fungicidal preparations should be used.

True powdery mildew from the downy form of this fungal disease can be distinguished by signs such as the formation of yellow-green spots on the leaves of the plant.

Pay attention to this photo: here are signs of such a hydrangea disease as downy and powdery mildew.

Septoria

This disease is manifested by the formation on the leaves of hydrangea brown spots 5 mm in diameter. If septoria is not treated, the leaves will soon completely darken and fall off the stems. This disease can deprive the plant of all leaves.

Signs of this hydrangea disease can be seen in the photo below:

Fighting methods:

1. Remove fallen leaves affected by septoria in a timely manner so that the fungus does not infect other parts of the soil.
2. Cut off the affected stems and leaves, lightly capturing healthy areas.
3. In spring, spray hydrangeas with Bordeaux mixture and Profit.

The features of processing hydrangea leaves in the treatment of this disease can be found in the photo below:

Rust

Another common fungal disease of hydrangeas that many gardeners face is rust. The disease manifests itself in a rusty color on the leaves, the disease can occur as a result of an excess of nitrogen in the soil.

Treatment of plants with copper chloride by spraying affected and healthy leaves will help eliminate signs of rust. To prepare the solution, 20 grams of copper should be dissolved in 5 liters of water. Also effective against rust are drugs such as Topaz and Falcon.

The external manifestations of this hydrangea disease and its treatment are presented in this photo:

Too high humidity and tightness can cause an invasion of snails and slugs, which can be severe. In the presence of too many harmful organisms, plants are treated with drugs such as Karbofos, Fitoverm, Aktellik. Meta is recommended against slugs.

Hydrangea is an amazingly beautiful plant that has lush green foliage and multi-colored inflorescences-hats. It can be grown both in the garden and in the apartment. With proper care and favorable conditions, the bush will be healthy and beautiful.

However, sometimes flower growers are faced with the fact that hydrangeas begin to turn yellow, dry or blacken the leaves. Why is this happening? And what should you do if you find such a problem in your plant?

The reasons

Basically, the reasons why hydrangea leaves turn yellow are care errors or changes in the environment. But sometimes the plant is damaged by pests. Consider the possible reasons in more detail.

Lack or excess of light and moisture

If the bush grows in the shade or in the open sunny area, its leaves may begin to turn yellow, brown and dry. The light regime is very important for the plant - it prefers bright, but at the same time diffused lighting.

He will also be comfortable in partial shade from trees or near shrubs. The scorching sun causes burns on the leaves, and the lack of light affects both foliage and flowering.

Attention!

If yellowing is due to improper lighting, hydrangeas should either be created suitable conditions, or transplant it to another place.

Although the hydrangea moisture-loving plant, strong waterlogging, first of all, affects the leaves. They begin to turn yellow and then fall off. If this happens, it is important to reduce the regularity and volume of watering and not flood the plant in the future.

drafts

Hydrangea is a heat-loving flower, so sudden changes in temperature and constant drafts at the place of its landing will lead to yellowing of the leaves and withering of the entire bush.

If this is the reason for yellowing, the flower should be transplanted to a windless sunny place. It is important that the soil in the new place is suitable.

It is very important when planting a plant to choose the right place, think about it in advance.

Low acidity of the soil

Hydrangea prefers acidic soil, pH 3-6. If it grows in alkaline soil, yellow leaves may begin to appear.

If this is the case, then periodically lemon juice should be added to the water for irrigation in the proportion of 2-3 drops of juice per 1 liter of water.

Also, lemon juice can be replaced with vinegar essence. In this case, the ratio will be: 1 teaspoon of essence per 10 liters of water. Over time, the soil loses its nutrients, the plant also needs to be fertilized.

Nutrient deficiency

One of the reasons for the appearance of yellow foliage in a plant may be a lack of fertilizer. From early spring to mid-summer, she needs regular top dressing: 2 times a month with mineral fertilizers and 1 time with organic fertilizers.

If your hydrangea has begun to turn yellow due to a lack of micro and macro elements, feed it with fertilizer in the spring high content nitrogen for active growth foliage, in the summer with "Kemira flower" for abundant flowering, in the fall - with potassium-phosphorus fertilizers to prepare for the dormant period and lay young shoots and peduncles.

powdery mildew

Leaf yellowing may be caused by this disease. It can be identified by a grayish coating on the back of the leaves. Yellow-green spots appear on the front side, which turn brown over time and acquire clear boundaries.

Fungicides, such as Alirin or Fitosporin, will help to cope with the disease. At advanced stages, Thiovit, Skor, Topaz, Jet are used.

Now you know why the leaves of the garden hydrangea turn yellow and what to do with the plant in case of care errors.

Dryness

Possible reasons why hydrangea leaves dry and what to do with the plant:

• Lack of moisture. The plant needs regular abundant watering, as it loves moisture very much. Due to overdrying of the roots, the leaves begin to dry, especially if the bush grows in a sunny place. The solution to the problem will be timely watering in sufficient quantities and shading the plant;
• Wrong transfer. If the roots that absorb water and nutrients were damaged during transplantation, the hydrangea does not grow well, and the tips of the leaves begin to dry out. In this case, the flower needs regular abundant (but not excessive) watering. Once every 10 days, when the soil is moistened, Zircon is added to the water (diluted according to the instructions). It stimulates root formation. Top dressing is carried out only after the bush begins to grow;
• Low humidity environment. This often happens in enclosed spaces, such as greenhouses. It is important to regularly ventilate and humidify the air around the bush;
• Nutrient deficiencies. It is especially felt during the formation of buds and flowering. During this period, top dressing should be carried out 1 time in 7-10 days.

blackening

The blackening of the leaves may be dry and wet, or sluggish. In the first case, brown spots form along the edges of the leaves, which subsequently cause the foliage to dry and wilt. The reason why hydrangea leaves turn black and dry may be:

• Sunburn. It is important to protect the plant from the scorching rays of the sun;
• Hard water for irrigation. Ordinary tap water may contain lime and other impurities. Therefore, before watering it is important to defend it, at least a day. It is better to do this in the sun so that the water also warms up.

Wet blackening is easily identified by sluggish dark leaves. Its reasons may be:

• Drafts or sudden changes in temperature;
• Excessive abundant watering;
• Heavy soil that retains moisture and is poorly breathable. Hydrangea prefers light, loose, nutritious soil.

Yellowing

Hydrangea paniculata, with its beautiful pyramidal inflorescences and flowering until the very cold, may also begin to turn yellow leaves. The reason, as a rule, lies in the excess or lack of something., for example:

• Excess or lack of light;
• Waterlogging;
• Lack of nutrients;
• Low acidity of the soil;
• Drafts and sudden changes in temperature;
• Diseases such as powdery mildew and ring spot.

To solve the problem of yellowing, it is necessary to adjust the care and create the most favorable conditions for hydrangea.

At home

Indoor hydrangea is adapted to life in an apartment, so it is especially necessary for it to create comfortable conditions for growth and flowering. Sometimes, if the rules of care are not followed, the leaves may begin to turn yellow and dry.. What could be the reason?

• Damage to the root system during transplantation. In this case, the plant is likely to recover, but it will take time - up to 2 months. You can help him with this by adding Zircon to the water for irrigation every 10 days. It stimulates root formation;
• Underwatering or overwatering. It is optimal to carry out the next moistening after the top layer of soil in the pot has dried up a little;
• Low air humidity. Hydrangea should be sprayed regularly, especially on hot summer days. It is also important to ensure that the humidity in the room where it is located is above average;
• Nutrient deficiencies. During the period of active growth and flowering, potted hydrangea needs regular feeding: 1 time in 7-10 days;
• Too much light. On the south window without shading, the hydrangea can get a leaf burn. Optimal location for her - east and west windows.

Knowing about the causes of yellowing, blackening and drying of hydrangea leaves, you can avoid unnecessary problems. Well, if trouble did happen, advice about quick help help in short time restore the splendor of green foliage!

A simple solution

If a magnificent and flowering beauty turns yellow in the garden, she must be saved. True, this will require knowledge of how much light and moisture is enough, how drafts and soil composition affect, and also what other reasons for such a shrub reaction may be. After all, he is amazingly handsome.

And why the lush green hydrangea foliage begins to change colors, you need to not just figure it out, but know how to deal with these negative phenomena.

Factors

Why the leaves dry and turn yellow in a garden beauty that can stand in pyramidal inflorescences and green foliage until the very cold, experienced gardeners know. But additional information will not interfere with either them or people who are fond of breeding flowers.

The main reasons are hidden in the following factors:

• hydration (more precisely, an excess of moisture that poured under the plant);
• lighting (it a large number of or the deficiency is reflected in the change in the color of the foliage to yellow);
• lack of nutrients (the size of the bush and a long growing season require a sufficient amount of substances and trace elements, due to which the health of the plant will be maintained);
• incorrect soil pH (too low acidity can significantly worsen appearance hydrangeas and yellowing foliage are just the beginning of these changes);
• temperature conditions that do not meet the standards for the plant (if there are drafts that the bush cannot tolerate or sudden changes in temperature, it is then that the leaves of the hydrangea dry);
• diseases (powdery mildew and ring spot are the most common types that can lead to yellowing and subsequent drying of the leaves).

How to deal with the problem and prevent each of them is indicated in the article below. After all, this long-flowering shrub with pink, blue and even whitish flowers can lose its external beauty if some factors go against the rules of care and its cultivation.

light and moisture

The leaves of the hydrangea wither and even fall off if the place for planting is not chosen correctly. It is impossible for this shrub to grow in the shade or in too open space with full access to sunlight. The appearance of yellowness, brown shades on the foliage and even its death is a natural result. The scorching sun can burn the leaves.

The lack of light will certainly be visible not only by changes in the foliage, but also by a worsened or lack of color on the garden hydrangea.

Only diffused lighting can save the plant from death. If it is not possible to equip some kind of canopy or pull the mesh from above, then the only way out is to transplant. Partial shade from trees and shrubs, higher than hydrangea, is quite suitable.

This plant is quite moisture-loving, but the lack of norms in watering will cause it to weaken. What to do if the foliage begins to change color and even fall off - the answer is obvious here. Reducing the regularity, as well as the volume of irrigation will best solution until the root system begins to rot.

Nutrients

Some actions should be taken despite the fact that the soil has been depleted, it no longer contains nutrients and needed by the plant substances and minerals. Saves the regularity of top dressing.

Mineral fertilizers are applied at least 1 time in 15 days, and organic fertilizers - 1 time in 30 days.
Hydrangea can be lethargic if there is a lack of micro and macro elements. In this case, the rules for caring for the plant will help.

In spring, the flower should be fed with nitrogen-containing fertilizers.

In summer, those solutions are selected, the action of which is aimed at abundant flowering. One of the most favorite top dressings among gardeners is Flower Kemira. Autumn is the time when young shoots and flower stalks are laid. In order for the plant to be well prepared for the dormant period, potassium-phosphorus fertilizers should be used. The color of each leaf on a shrub can indicate a problem.

If the gardener has a store far away, then you can prepare fertilizer yourself at home. One of the main ingredients will be red peat. The second is humus from the leaves.

It is thanks to him that acidification and saturation with minerals of the earth will occur, where this fertilizer will be applied. Then pine needles and sulfur are mixed in. It's easy to do. Sulfur should only be lightly sprinkled over the dug up earth. Make only 3 dressings.

One in the spring when new foliage appears. The other two - in the summer, while the plant blooms and smells in the literal and figurative sense.

To the question why the leaves of the garden hydrangea turn yellow, there is another answer. This is an iron deficiency. Wilting and yellowing associated with this problem are neutralized by acidification. Acid solutions, which are almost always on hand, are quite suitable.

Use diluted vinegar, as well as citric or oxalic acid. A teaspoon of any of the above substances per 10 liters of clean water will save the day.

Burying nails and canning lids, cans and the introduction of a solution of ferovit into the soil will make up for the lack of iron.

The soil

Garden hydrangea needs acidified soil. As soon as alkalis prevail in the soil, this affects the color of the foliage. The fight against this problem is quite simple.

Lemon juice should be added to water for irrigation. For 1 liter pure species enough just up to 3 drops. You can take a solution of vinegar essence for the same purpose. But here is a different relationship.

You will need one teaspoon of liquid per 10 liters of water.

Violation of the temperature regime

Drafts and sudden changes in temperature will definitely negatively affect the flower. This can affect not only the foliage, but also the wilting of the entire shrub.

If it is not possible to create protection for the plant in this place in the form decorative hedge, shields or wattle, which means it needs to be transplanted. Security, necessary care and the absence of drafts will help the flower regain strength.
The leaves of the shrub dry up if the air temperature is above 30 degrees Celsius.

After sunset, the hydrangea can recover again. But if excessive heat is observed for many days and weeks, the bush cannot be saved - it will begin to dry completely. This does not mean that the flower will die.

However, it will definitely not be able to please with juicy foliage or flowering this year. From the scorching sun with excessive heat, the hydrangea should be protected as well as from drafts.

In this case, it is better to create humidity during hours when the sun is not so aggressive by spraying.

Diseases and the fight against them

Hydrangeas turn black, and not just turn yellow due to powdery mildew. Such a disease is determined in the early stages by a grayish coating at the bottom of the leaves.

The front side is covered with spots that turn from yellow-green to brown and even black. Fungicides will help save such a deplorable situation.

Gardeners use Thiovit, Topaz, Skor, Jet (in advanced cases), Fitosporin and Alirin (in the early stages).

The leaves turn black or turn brown, turn yellow and deform also if the plant is affected by diseases such as gray rot, as well as spotting:

• phylloscytic;
• annular;
• septoria;
• ascochytic.

As a result, the foliage not only changes color, but also dries. They fight these microorganisms with the help of Bordeaux liquid, copper sulfate, as well as special pre-purchased preparations that need to be treated with shrubs.

Yellowness and drying on the foliage is a natural reaction if the hydrangea is attacked spider mite. With strong colonization, there are cases when the plant died completely. Insects are afraid of acaricides and insecto-acaricides. Such drugs are available in almost every store.

If the leaves on the bush turn black, experienced gardeners immediately look for aphids. It is she who drinks the juice from the plant. And its sticky liquid - afterbirth becomes favorable soil for the growth of soot fungus. Tobacco tincture or insecticides will help save the hydrangea.

True, if an incident happened, this information will tell gardeners a list of actions with which a successful struggle is possible.

french princess

Hydrangea, or hydrangea (Hydrangea) perennial shrub of the Hydrangeaceae family, or hydrangeas (Hydrangeaceae), common in East Asia, North and South America.

The genus Hortensia got its first name in honor of the French princess Hortensia.

And much later, scientists renamed the plant Hydrangia, which comes from the Greek words "hydor" - water and "angeion" - a vessel, which indicates that the plant belongs to the moisture-loving. But gardeners all over the world got accustomed to the first name - Hydrangea.

Hydrangeas are perennial, deciduous, large-leaved, ornamental shrubs (sometimes liana-shaped). From uric roots grows up to 5 stems. The leaves are dark green, opposite, elongated-oval, pointed, serrated at the edges, with clearly protruding veins.

The flowers are collected in large spherical inflorescences. More often, flowers of two types - small fruit-bearing, located in the middle of the inflorescence and marginal - large, barren, from 4-5 petal-shaped sepals, mostly snow-white, blue or pinkish.

The fruit is a 2-5-separate box with numerous small seeds.

Large-leaved hydrangea (Hydrangea macrophylla) - ornamental shrub, in open ground the plant can reach 1-2 m in height. Shoots are upright. Leaves numerous, ovate, green.

The flowers are collected in large (up to 20 cm in diameter), dense, spherical inflorescences, formed at the ends of the shoots. A potted plant produces 3-6 flower heads. On the acidic soil flowers are blue, on alkaline - pink in various shades, even white.

There are several varieties of large-leaved hydrangea:

- Japanese variety (Hydrangea macrophylla var. Japonica) - with flat inflorescences, along the edges of which there are large sterile flowers, and the middle is occupied by fertile ones.

- changeable variety (Hydrangea macrophylla var. Mutabilis) - spherical inflorescences, consisting of large sterile flowers. Numerous varieties of this variety are widely used in industrial floriculture.

Hydrangea paniculata (Hydrangea paniculata)- shrub or small tree, with large serrated leaves.

The flowers are collected in corymbose or paniculate inflorescences and can be white, pink, red, blue and blue.

This species is frost-resistant and tolerates temperatures of -15°C; even if the above-ground part of the plant is destroyed by frost, it will grow back as soon as it gets warmer. Requires annual pruning.

Hydrangea tree (Hydrangea arborescens)- upright shrub, reaching a height of two meters. Flowering begins in July and continues until frost.

Inflorescences are large (up to 25-30 cm), densely covering the bushes. Before the start of growth, a short pruning of the bushes is necessary.

Frost-resistant plant, tolerates temperatures down to -20°C, quickly recovers in spring.

Hydrangea petiolate, or creeping (Hydrangea scandens, petiolaris)- hardy liana, reaching a height of about 20 m, clinging to the support with numerous aerial roots. The flowers are white, collected in umbellate inflorescences.

Lighting
During the active growing season, Hydrangea does not tolerate direct Sun rays, so it is better to have it in partial shade. But in winter (from the beginning of January until the formation of buds), on the contrary, it is recommended to place plants in the most lit, sunny places.

Temperature
In summer, hydrangea is recommended to be taken out on Fresh air, in a cool place. For the winter, the hydrangea sheds its leaves, so it can winter in a dark place at a temperature of 4-8 ° C; at the beginning of spring, it should be moved again to a bright and warm place where the temperature should not exceed 20 ° C. At temperatures above 20°C, the plant sheds its leaves.

Most garden hydrangeas are hardy. They are cut or bent to the ground for the winter, and covered spruce branches. Under such shelter, the plant winters well. If the ground part of the hydrangea freezes, then it can be cut off, and then the plant will bloom next year.

Air humidity
Hydrangeas prefer high humidity. To do this, it is recommended to regularly spray the leaves, you can place the pot in a tray with wet expanded clay or moss, but the bottom of the pot should not touch the water.

Watering
In the spring and summer, hydrangea prefers abundant watering, as the topsoil dries out. Since autumn, watering is gradually reduced. In winter, the hydrangea is watered occasionally, but the soil is not allowed to dry out completely. When leaves appear, watering is gradually increased.

Fertilizer
With the advent of buds, hydrangeas begin to be fed complex fertilizer for flowering plants 2 times a month.

rest period
In winter, hydrangeas have a dormant period. At this time, she sheds her leaves. Store pots at this time should be in dry, cool rooms, you can in the dark. The rest period lasts 2-2.5 months.

pruning
After a dormant period, it is necessary to prune weak and elongated shoots, leaving 2-6 eyes on the branch. This contributes to a good growth of new, stronger shoots, increased flowering.

Transfer
Hydrangea is transplanted annually. At the same time, one must be careful with the choice of soil, because white, pink and red varieties require soil with low acidity, and for blue varieties - with high.

reproduction
Hydrangeas are propagated mainly by cuttings, less often by seeds, dividing bushes, offspring and layering, and grafting. For cuttings in March, take young lower shoots with leaves 7-8 cm long with 2-3 internodes. Leaf blades are shortened by a third or half.

Attention!

The two lower leaves must be removed, the cut must be straight, 3-4 mm below the knot. They are planted at a distance of 4-5 cm from each other in deep bowls, deepening 1.5-2 cm into the sand. It is not recommended to cover the cuttings with glass, as they can rot. In the first week they are sprayed 3-4 times a day, then 1-2 times.

After 5-6 weeks, well-rooted cuttings with a clod of earth are planted in 7-9 cm pots. In May, the cuttings are pinched for bushiness.

Cuttings in March, hydrangeas will bloom in May - June next year. Annual plants form 1-3 inflorescences.

Diseases and pests
Spider mite. It affects the leaves from the underside, causing them to turn yellow and marble, then dry and fall off. The tick covers the underside of the leaf with a brown cobweb.
Preparations for the fight: actara, actellik, fitoverm, thiophos.

Downy mildew. It affects the leaves and stems of hydrangeas. Its first signs are the appearance on the leaves of oily, later turning yellow spots, gradually darkening and increasing in size. A yellowish coating appears below the leaves, the same coating can be on young stems.

The development of the disease is facilitated by a temperature of 18-20 ° C and high humidity.
Control measures: treatment of affected plants with copper soap liquid (150 g of green soap, 15 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water).

This liquid is harmless to plants, and its use in the early stages of development helps to completely get rid of the disease.

Chlorosis. A sign of chlorosis is the lightening of the leaves, only the veins on them remain dark. Plants growing on soils with a significant amount of lime are more susceptible to chlorosis.

An excess of humus in the soil also leads to chlorosis.

Control measures: pour 2-3 times with a solution of potassium nitrate at the rate of 40 g per 10 liters of water and three days later - with a solution of ferrous sulfate, also 40 g per 10 liters of water.

In conditions closed ground when forcing plants, hydrangea can be affected by green leaf aphids.
Control measures: a good way to destroy it is to spray the plants twice with a solution of anabazine sulfate. To do this, 15-20 g of anabazine sulfate is dissolved in 10 liters of water.

With an excess of light, light spots appear on the leaves.
With insufficient watering and dry air, the tips of the leaves dry.
With a lack of nutrition, plants develop poorly and do not bloom.

Useful information

Hydrangea is a wonderful plant that flower growers often grow, both in the garden and at home. The plant blooms very beautifully and fits perfectly into the home interior.

Caring for hydrangea is quite simple, as it is not whimsical to the conditions of detention. But sometimes hydrangea leaves turn yellow and dry.

Why this happens, and what to do in such a situation, we will try to tell you in this article.

The reasons

Why hydrangea leaves began to turn yellow, what to do? There may be several reasons for yellowing, but usually this happens due to inappropriate care of the flower. In this case, it is necessary to reconsider the correct care of the flower.

Hydrangea leaves may turn yellow due to errors such as:

1. Excessive humidity. Home hydrangea loves moisture very much, but if you water it heavily, then the flower can only be poured, and this is quite detrimental to the leaves, which as a result turn yellow and fall off.
2. Lack of heat. Hydrangea does not tolerate drafts and low temperatures very well. Under such conditions, the leaves of the plant turn yellow and dry.
3. Insufficient amount of nutrients. Home hydrangea for good flowering should receive the necessary micro and macro elements.
4. Lack of lighting. In order for a flower to grow and develop normally, it needs good lighting. Hydrangea prefers bright and diffused light. But only direct sunlight should not fall on the plant, otherwise the leaves may get a sunburn.
5. Lack of fertilizer during the period of active flower growth. If you do not apply top dressing, then the leaves turn yellow and dry.

Why home hydrangea leaves dry and what to do? home flower needs nutrients, and in particular during the flowering period. When there is a shortage useful elements, there will be an inferior formation of inflorescences, and also the tips of the leaves will turn yellow. Very often this happens when the earth is deficient in nitrogen and iron.

Diseases

Why do hydrangea leaves turn black? Sometimes it happens that the care of the plant is carried out correctly, and the leaves turn yellow anyway, which means that the reason is something else. In some cases, hydrangea leaves turn yellow and dry due to diseases. Although the plant is quite resistant to various infections, in certain cases it can be affected by diseases.

The most common hydrangea disease is ring spot. When a disease affects a flower, its leaves not only turn yellow, but also deform.

In addition to the ring spot, indoor flower Other diseases can also attack:

• powdery mildew;
• chlorosis;
• white rot.

powdery mildew

The disease manifests itself in the form of oily spots, which turn black after a while. The disease occurs due to high humidity. To get rid of powdery mildew, you need to treat the flower with soapy water, to which they add blue vitriol. Such treatment must be performed in the early stages of the disease.

Chlorosis

Why does chlorosis affect hydrangea? The disease most often occurs due to improper watering.

Chlorosis appears when the plant is watered cold water from the tap, where present a large share lime content. With this disease, the leaf turns yellow and dries.

In some cases, chlorosis leads to the death of the plant. Flower treatment for chlorosis includes spraying the plant special preparations: Ferovit, Agricol, Ferrilen.

white rot

This disease is manifested by root rot. With such a disease, the flower does not receive useful substances, then it begins to darken and dies. To eliminate the disease, the plant must be treated chemical agent such as Fitosporin or use other fungicides. If you do not want your hydrangea to be affected by various diseases, then plant care must be correct.

Treatment of diseased leaves

When the edges of the leaves dry, you need to urgently react, otherwise the plant may die. First you need to determine the cause, and only then choose a method of treatment.

The main methods of treatment:

• with an excess of moisture - it is necessary to suspend watering for a while or water, but not so often;
• with a lack of heat - the hydrangea should be removed from drafts, and placed in a warmer room;
• if there are not enough nutrients, you need to start feeding the flower. Experienced flower growers it is recommended to fertilize the pot when watering along with water, you still need to use soft and settled water for irrigation.

With an insufficient amount of iron in the earth, the acidity of the earth should be renewed. In this case, vinegar essence must be added to the soil. Prepare the solution as follows: take 1 teaspoon of essence and pour into 10 liters of water. By the way, vinegar can be replaced with oxalic acid. In addition, to restore the acidity of the earth, a solution of ferovit should be used.

In case of viral diseases, diseased leaves must be removed, and the flower should be treated with fungicides. Quite often, professionals use Bordeaux mixture against diseases (1%). If you properly care for hydrangea, then the edges of the leaves will not turn yellow and dry.

Prevention

In order to prevent the occurrence of yellowing of the leaves, it is recommended to follow some tips:

1. It is required to properly organize the irrigation regime. You do not need to fill the flower too much, but also dry it too.
2. Use settled and soft water for irrigation.
3. The plant is best placed in a warm room.
4. Keep the plant pot out of direct sunlight as the edges of the leaves may dry out.
5. From time to time you need to feed the hydrangea (mainly during the flowering period).

In addition, you can sometimes spray the flower with various preparations from microbes. If you follow these recommendations, then you will be able to avoid the appearance of yellow leaves on your home hydrangea, and maintain its excellent appearance for a long time.