Why do plants need phosphorus? Fertilizers for flowers

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Do-it-yourself fertilizers

"Preparation of fertilizers for indoor plants" />

- Is it possible and in what quantities to adopt ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium salt for feeding houseplants? How much solution is needed for one top dressing?

- Everyone is used to using ready-made fertilizers for indoor plants. Although it is likely to cook them personally.

During growth, fertilizers are applied with a predominance of nitrogen, and before flowering there should be more phosphorus and potassium.

In spring and early summer, during the period of plant growth for feeding, dilute 2.5 tsp in 10 liters of water. ammonium nitrate, half a teaspoon of potassium salt, 1 tsp. superphosphate. 50-70 ml of fertilizer solution is poured into 1 liter of base. One liter of fertilizer mixture solution feeds 10-15 plants. Before applying the fertilizer solution, the base is properly watered.

Before flowering and during the flowering period, top dressing is prepared from: 1.5 tsp. ammonium nitrate and 2.5 tsp. potassium salt and 2.5 tsp. superphosphate per 10 liters of water. It is possible to add a little micro-fertilizers (as it will be prescribed on the bag). From March to September, plants should be fed 1-2 times a month. Fast-growing ones feed more than those that grow slowly. Top dressing under the root is alternated with spraying the leaves with these fertilizer solutions. Probably foliar top dressing).

Slow-growing plants and adult palms are fed once a quarter, and large specimens - 2 times. During the period of budding and flowering, the most frequent top dressing is needed. Asparagus, gardenia, hibiscus, oleander, passionflower, coleus, roses are fed once a week. Aukuba, codiuum, poinsettia - all kinds of 10 days; and abutilon, dracaena, jasmine, clivia, coffee, pelargonium, ficus TWO - once a month; pelargonium, sansevieria - 1 time per month.

Flowers-large-sized, growing in autumn- winter period feed at the beginning of the ascent with the upcoming solution of mineral fertilizers. For I liter of water take 1.5 g of urea and ammonium nitrate, I g of potassium salt, 1.5 g of superphosphate. Do not forget about organic fertilizers - mullein infusions (1:10), bird droppings(1:40). A wonderful top dressing for succulents and cacti is slightly acidified water, in which boiled crushed eggshells have lain for a number of days.

For citrus fruits, it is likely to use a filtered 2-hour decoction of salmon bones and scales (or other solid marine fish).

Actually, it’s still important to know about top dressing, in fact, probably, the patients themselves do not fertilize the plants directly. First you need to understand the root cause of the disease. A common mistake is that the roots themselves rot from excess fertilizer, and they are fed again.

After transplantation, the plants are not fed. At first, they are obliged to take root properly and set off on the rise. Evergreen leafy plants are likely to be fertilized no earlier than 7-10 days after transplantation, and the rest - after 15 days.

For top dressing, it is likely to adopt other mineral fertilizers. Nitrogen is located in ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate, urea. Phosphorus contains elemental superphosphate, double superphosphate, potassium phosphate. Potassium informant - potassium salt. Calcium is found in calcium nitrate, calcium sulfide. Magnesium is located in magnesium sulfate. Iron contains ferrous sulfates, ferric chlorides. The source of manganese will be manganese sulfate. For the introduction of boron, boric acid is used, and copper and zinc - copper sulfate and zinc sulfate, in accordance with this. A solution of potassium permanganate of low concentration is used for watering DVUM plants once a year as an informant of microelements.

For floriferous and Beautiful flowering plants this one will do mineral supplement. Dissolve 1 g of ammonium sulfate, 1 g of potassium salt (30-40%) and 1.5 g of superphosphate in 1 liter of water. Water the plants with this solution once a week during budding and flowering.

Ornamental leafy plants will like a different fertilizer composition. For 1 liter of water, add 0.4 g of ammonium nitrate, 0.1 g of potassium nitrate and 0.5 g of simple superphosphate. Water the plants TWO times a month while the leaves are growing.

A personal mixture of microelements and fertilizers for succulents, cacti, citrus and azaleas is quite likely to be prepared in the future. In 0.5 l of water, dissolve 1 g of salts of calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boric acid, TWO g of ammonium nitrate, TWO g of potassium salt and 3 g double superphosphate. When watering, dilute 1 teaspoon of this solution in 1.0-0.5 liters of water, based on the volume of the pot and plant.

Good fertilizer they say wood ash containing potassium, phosphorus and calcium. An infusion is made - 25 g of ash is poured into a liter of water and infused for a week, the infusion is shaken daily. It is used in conjunction with organic fertilizers or separately after flowering plants. Before planting, the ash is added to the base - 1 part of the ash for MORE THAN HALF OF THEM parts of the territory.

In summer, nettles are used for top dressing. New nettle 1 kg or 200 g dry pour 10 liters of water and leave for a day. The filtered infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 and the plants are watered 1-2 times during the summer between other top dressings.

Fertilizing indoor plants

Indoor plants need to be fed systematically, since the area of nutrition in flower dishes is small, and the earth is quickly depleted. But top dressing, applied at the wrong time or in too high a concentration, can have a harmful effect. You need to know well how this or that fertilizer works in order not to be mistaken.

Top dressing of indoor plants You need to feed only healthy, well-growing indoor flowers, better with organic fertilizers - mullein (1: 10), bird droppings(1:20). But it is not always convenient to use them in apartments, and it is not so easy to get them in the city. Therefore, it is more expedient to use ready-made mineral fertilizers for indoor flowers.

It is necessary to apply mineral fertilizers according to the instructions, without increasing the dose: it is dangerous for plants. And for such delicate species as saintpaulias, columnae and others, only half the dose should be taken. It is recommended to fertilize indoor plants no more than once every 2 weeks.

Frequent top dressing can, like doping, cause a violent growth of green mass, the plant will "get fat", will not bloom.

If for some reason the plant does not grow stubbornly, fertilization can only worsen its condition, since weak, possibly rotten roots will not be able to cope with excess nutrition. Therefore, it is only occasionally watered and loosened the soil. If this does not help, the diseased plant should be transplanted into a smaller vessel with light sandy soil.

Do not rush to feed the flowers transplanted into fresh nutrient soil, they will be fully provided with food for the season. Top dressing should be applied without abusing their quantity, only in moist soil, 40-50 minutes after watering; it is best to do this after sunset.

Feed flowers in spring and summer, carefully watering the plant only around the stem, so as not to burn the roots. With the help of a small spatula, the soil is loosened - this allows air to penetrate deeper into the soil and refresh it, and water to reach the roots.

Fertilizing indoor plants The most applicable mineral fertilizers are ammonium nitrate (for plant growth), potassium nitrate (to improve flowering), ammonium sulfate, ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and others that dissolve well in water. The solution is made at a low concentration - 0.5 g per 1 liter of water.

An excellent top dressing for houseplants is water in which pounded eggshells have been lying for several days. Even better, crush the egg shells and mix with powdered sugar.

The water in which the meat was washed can also be good fertilizer. It must be strained through cheesecloth, otherwise pieces of fat will make it difficult for air to reach the roots.

Sometimes 1 liter irrigation water you can add a teaspoon of milk or use the water left after washing milk dishes, plates with meat and fish dishes. Such an unusual top dressing will give the plants all the necessary nutrient salts.

In winter, top dressing is also needed, but more rare than when caring for indoor plants in the summer. Feed flowering plants from the appearance of buds to the end of flowering. The rest - once every 2-3 weeks.

Nutrient solutions should only be of low concentration. Strong - burn the roots, lead to the death of flowers. You can pre-prepare a strong solution by taking 1 tablespoon of complete mineral fertilizer per 0.5 liter of water. And when the time comes for feeding - stir 1 teaspoon of the finished solution in 0.5 liters of water.
How can you fertilize houseplants?

For example, eggshell coffee grounds, dormant tea... You can always find free house plant fertilizers in your own kitchen!.

Sleeping coffee and tea is a storehouse of macro- and micro-elements useful for plants; they can be laid out on the surface of the soil in a pot. To prevent small flies from settling in them, place Flight pellets next to the flower pots.

Also, dormant tea and coffee can also be used as an additive to the soil during the next plant transplant. Heat-dried coffee and tea interfere with the soil in a ratio of 1:10. Sometimes they are poured to the very bottom of the pot as drainage and top dressing at the same time.

But the best drainage is crushed spruce and pine cones. They contain resinous substances, with the help of which they will protect the roots from decay.

The most best water for watering indoor plants - thawed. It differs from tap water in that it is soft, does not contain chlorine, and is not oversaturated with calcium and magnesium salts. But collect only freshly fallen snow and you need to filter the resulting water through a double layer of gauze. Plants do not need to be watered cold water heat it up to 30 degrees.

By the way, you can not filter ordinary tap water before watering if you put it in flower pots sawdust layer of 2-3 cm. This will turn out to be the best natural filter. Sawdust can be soaked in an aqueous solution of ammonium nitrate or urea at the rate of one tablespoon per bucket. Then sawdust will not only absorb harmful salts, but also acidify ordinary tap water.

You can water indoor flowers with "blood" water, which remains after washing the meat. Such water is likely to contain useful to plants nitrogen and phosphorus, but the earth in a pot after watering smells unpleasant, flies start up there. Therefore, instead of "meat" water, it is better to use a weak solution of the Semitsvetik fertilizer.

Try to accumulate more eggshells - it contains a lot of calcium, phosphorus and various trace elements, which will be needed in the spring in the country. True, in order for fertilizer to be obtained from the shell, it must be burned. And by the way, the stove in the country is a mini-factory for the production of free fertilizers, because wood ash also has a lot of calcium, needed by plants. However, for indoor flowers, ash from straw or weed stalks is desirable.
The value of mineral and organic fertilizers
for indoor plants

As mineral fertilizers used as growth stimulants, many flower growers use ammonium nitrate, potassium salt, superphosphate, as organic fertilizers - cow dung or bird droppings. The composition of both those and other fertilizers includes such irreplaceable elements as nitrogen, ammoniac acid, phosphorus, potassium, magnesium.

Each of these elements plays a very important role in the normal development of the plant.
Phosphorus

Phosphorus is the main element that provides energy processes in plant cells. Phosphorus is also part of the so-called nucleoproteins - the main component of the cell nucleus.

With a lack of phosphorus, the leaves become dark green in color, acquire a somewhat bluish tint, brown or red-violet spots appear, which gradually capture the entire leaf. The old ones are affected first. lower leaves, then the process spreads to the whole plant. The growth of shoots and roots is greatly slowed down, new leaves are small, flowering is delayed.

With an excess of phosphorus, which is quite rare, the absorption of iron and zinc is disturbed in the plant - interveinal chlorosis appears on the leaves.

The need for phosphorus especially increases before flowering. Fertilizers, which include this element, are stabilizers for the rapid growth of the root system. Phosphate mineral fertilizers include superphosphate, phosphate rock, etc.
Potassium

Potassium is involved in nitrogen metabolism (helps the plant absorb carbon dioxide from the air) and protein hydration in cells. Potassium is especially necessary for flowers; with a lack of potassium, flowers do not form or they are very small.

With a lack of potassium, ammonia accumulates in the cells, from which tissue death begins (leaves turn yellow from the edges and begin to gradually fall off). Plant growth is drastically retarded.

A characteristic sign of potassium starvation is a light border over the entire surface of the leaf. Moreover, yellowing begins from the top of the leaf and further down between the veins to the petiole.

In addition, with a lack of potassium, plants are more easily exposed to fungal diseases. Therefore, if the plant is weakened and it lacks resistance to various diseases, as well as to adverse conditions environment, top dressings are recommended, which include potassium compounds.

With an excess of potassium, growth retardation can also be noted. The leaves at the same time acquire a darker shade, and the new leaves become smaller. Excess potassium leads to difficulty in the absorption of elements such as calcium, magnesium, zinc, boron, etc.

Potassium mineral fertilizers include potassium chloride, potassium sulphate, 40% potassium salt, etc. If it is established that the plant has a lack of potassium, then it is best to apply Potassium Humate in the form of irrigation or spraying.
Nitrogen

Nitrogen is part of the complex compounds from which protein is built - the basis of living matter. Nitrogen is also part of chlorophyll, which plays an important role in plant photosynthesis. Nitrogen is especially necessary for leaves, with a lack of nitrogen, the leaves become pale green, then turn yellow, plant growth is delayed, the leaves become smaller.

From a lack of nitrogen, the lower leaves of plants turn yellow first, then gradually yellowing covers the entire plant.

With an excess of nitrogen, the leaves become dark green, large and juicy, flowering (and fruit ripening in lemons, oranges, etc.) is delayed. In succulent plants (such as cacti, aloe, etc.), excess nitrogen causes thinning of the skin, which bursts, causing the plant to die or leave ugly scars.

To feed plants with nitrogen, nitrogen mineral fertilizers (ammonium nitrate, ammonium sulfate) and organic fertilizers (manure or slurry) are used.
Magnesium

Magnesium is part of chlorophyll and is involved in plant photosynthesis.

With a lack of magnesium, the leaves turn pale, interveinal chlorosis is possible, which manifests itself in the fact that yellowing begins on the leaf blade between the longitudinal veins. First, these are small spots that increase in size, then wide stripes, the veins themselves remain green. Then the leaf acquires an orange and reddish hue, turns brown and dies.

With a lack of magnesium, flowering is delayed, plant growth slows down, and the fruits of the plant do not ripen. First of all, a lack of magnesium manifests itself on the old lower leaves of plants.

With an excess of magnesium, the roots of the plant begin to die off, the plant ceases to absorb calcium, and symptoms occur that are characteristic of calcium deficiency.

Magnesium is obtained from organic fertilizers. Magnesium deficiency occurs primarily in acidic soils.

In addition to essential nutrients, any indoor plant requires trace elements such as iron, copper, manganese, molybdenum, zinc.
How to determine if a plant needs
fertilizing?

In order not to harm the plant in the first place, you need to know for sure whether it needs to be fertilized with fertilizers at all. The main criterion for plant disease or nutrient deficiency is its appearance. It is from it that you can accurately determine the excess or deficiency of a particular substance, which will allow you to adjust the type of top dressing, mode, watering measure and further care.
Signs of a lack of minerals in the soil
may appear as follows:

The lower parts of the plant die off and fall off;
there is no plant resistance to pests and diseases;
the plant develops slowly;
the color of the leaves changes, spots appear;
flowering delayed or absent;
shoots are too fragile.

An excess of minerals can be determined
on the following grounds:

When watering the plant with soft water, the surface of the soil may appear white coating;
leaves begin to wilt;
in summer the plant grows slowly;
the tips of the leaves dry up;
stems become brittle and brittle.

When feeding plants, their biological characteristics should also be taken into account.

So flowering plants need phosphate and potash fertilizers, ornamental herbaceous plants need nitrogen.

Cacti and succulents need to be fed only until they appear. flower bud. Cacti are not recommended to be fed with organic fertilizers.
When and how to feed indoor plants with mineral fertilizers?
During the period of intensive development, the plant
watering recommended:

Ammonium nitrate dissolved in water - 2.5 teaspoons per 10 liters of water;
potassium salt - 2 teaspoons per 10 liters of water;
superphosphate - 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water.

During the appearance of buds and flowering, the plant is recommended to be watered:

Ammonium nitrate dissolved in water - 0.5 teaspoon per 10 liters of water;
potassium salt - 1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water;
superphosphate - 2.5 teaspoons per 10 liters of water.

How to apply organic fertilizers?

Organic fertilizers improve physical properties soil, increase its ability to absorb moisture, reduce soil acidity, improve its aeration.

But organic fertilizers can not be applied to all plants. As a rule, large or fast growing plants, such as citrus fruits, palms, ficus elastica, monstera, dieffenbachia, etc., are well accepted by organics. But organic fertilizers are contraindicated for cacti.

Cow dung or bird droppings are most often used as organic fertilizers. To prepare an organic mixture, manure or litter should be placed in a suitable container, poured with water in the right proportion and insisted until fermentation (about a week). The mixture must be thoroughly mixed daily.

Humus (rotted manure) is an extremely valuable nitrogen fertilizer. Mullein infusion is used as a fertilizer watering (1 part of manure to 10 parts of water). Manure top dressing contains insufficient phosphorus, so superphosphate can be added to it at the rate of 12-15 g per top dressing bucket.

There are plants, such as asparagus, which are very fond of feeding with mullein. It is best to smear the walls of the pot with cow cake when transplanting them, and then cover the ground.

Feeding with bird droppings gives more greater effect than feeding with mullein. In terms of nutritional value, bird droppings are superior to mullein and, moreover, do not have such a strong smell. Before use, bird droppings are diluted with water in the proportion: 1 part of droppings and 18-20 parts of water.

Keep in mind that a high concentration solution can kill the plant, so bird droppings must be applied very carefully.

A good fertilizer for indoor plants can be the water in which raw meat was washed, as well as the water left after boiling unpeeled potatoes.

different kind effective feeding is crushed eggshells combined with powdered sugar. To prepare such a fertilizer, the shell should be mixed with powdered sugar, poured into water and insisted for several days.

In order to improve plant growth, it is recommended to apply foliar top dressing. These include 1% solutions of urea, potassium sulfate and superphosphate. You can apply fertilizer to plants using a spray bottle.
Types of ready-made fertilizers for indoor plants

For growing plants in room conditions it is most convenient to use ready-made fertilizers, which can be purchased in specialized stores.

The most common are considered the following fertilizers:

"Cactus" - fertilizer for all types of cacti. available in liquid form.

"Hyacinth" - concentrated fertilizer for bulbous plants is available in liquid form.

"Palma" is a concentrated fertilizer for subtropical plants, available in liquid form.

"Flower" is a complex universal top dressing for indoor decorative flowering plants. available in granular form.

"Cascade" - foliar top dressing for flowering plants in aerosol packaging.

Rules for feeding indoor plants with mineral fertilizers

There are several essential rules, which must be observed by any amateur grower.

In no case should you fertilize plants that have been planted recently.

Fertilizers can only be applied to the soil of those plants, root system who are well developed and healthy.

The concentration of fertilizer watering should be weak, especially at the beginning of plant growth. When fertilizing many flowers, it is recommended to apply only half the dose of fertilizer. The best effect is more frequent watering with a weak solution.

If the plant is in the stage of intensive development or flowering, then it should be fed in spring or summer no more than once every two weeks.

When fertilizing, it is necessary to adhere to the principle of the golden mean. Overfeeding is fraught with the growth of stems and leaves, but at the same time, a delay in flowering.

After making foliar top dressing, the plant needs a small drop spraying. This must be done so that fertilizer particles do not remain on the leaves.

If, after fertilization, the plant develops very slowly or is sick, then top dressing should be stopped, replacing them with moderate watering and thorough loosening of the soil.

The temperature of the feeding solutions should be 3-5 ° C higher than room temperature.

Plants in the dormant period or at the end of the growth period before the dormant period.

A newly purchased plant (top dressing no earlier than 2 weeks later).

Sick plants, when the cause of the disease state is not established.

Plants with damaged root systems (root rot if the plant has been heavily watered, etc.).

Transplanting indoor plants

At the beginning of spring, all lovers of indoor plants begin active care for their green pets, the main component of which is their transplantation. Many beginner flower growers have a lot of questions in this regard. That is why we have structured this article in the form of questions and answers, having drawn very valuable information from all available sources.

Question 1. Why should plants be transplanted in the spring?

In spring, plants grow, they need enhanced nutrition, and the roots need a more spacious place. It is easier for new roots to get used to a new pot during this period. Therefore, in March-April (at least in May) it is necessary to start transplanting flowers.

Question 2. Is it necessary to replant the plant?

No, you need to transplant only if the need arises. Otherwise, it is better not to touch the plant. The first reason for the transplant: he became cramped in the old pot. The signal for a transplant is too fast drying substrate (earthen mixture) after watering, which means that the roots have mastered its entire volume, and the pot has become cramped. First lift the pot and look at drainage hole. If roots are visible through it, then if you do not transplant it, there is a chance that the tips of the roots will dry out. Carefully remove the plant from the pot. Now carefully inspect - if only some roots have penetrated to the edge of the coma, then you can wait a little with the transplant, then carefully insert the plant back into the pot. If the roots are braided with a lump or form a dense mass resembling felt, a transplant is needed. But first you need to cut out the rotten roots. Another most common cause is poor earth mix). This happens not only with inept watering. Often earth mixtures are written incorrectly, or they do not meet the needs this plant. It happens that the pot breaks, or you want to change it to another one that is more suitable for the interior. Soil pests are a rare, but unpleasant and solid reason to start transplanting.

Question 3. How safe is it for the plant to take it out of the pot?

To remove a clod of earth with roots intact from a pot, the easiest way is to knock it out. To do this, you need to take right hand pot, and cover the ground with the left, passing the stem between the index and middle fingers, then turn it over and lightly hit the edge of the pot on the table, then the earthen ball will fall behind the walls. It will not fall apart if the ground is slightly damp, so water the plant not immediately before transplanting, but the day before.

Question 4. When is the best time to start transplanting?

Usually the plant is transplanted the next day after watering, since at this moment the earth in the pot should not be damp, but moist.

Question 5. How to start transplanting plants?

First, check the inventory - scoops, hoes, secateurs; buy fresh land; look at what you have there with the pots, whether sand and expanded clay have remained from last year, whether there are shards and spare pallets.

Question 6. Which pot is better to choose?

What you plant your plants in is a matter of taste. Suitable pots and ceramic, and plastic, and wooden tubs. Much size is more important and form. Small pots up to 10 cm in diameter will be needed for planting rooted cuttings. In the future, when transplanting, change the pot to a larger one only if the roots of the plant have braided the entire earthen ball and come out through the drainage hole. The next largest pot should fit into the previous one without too much clearance. In most cases new pot should be only 1-2.5 cm larger in diameter than the previous one. A "correct" planting container, be it a pot or tub, should have one or more drainage holes in the bottom. In ceramic bowls without a drainage hole, you can plant succulent compositions, provided that you are careful with watering. Try to avoid pots that taper upward (in the form of a ball or vase) or have a noticeable protrusion along the edge. Otherwise, when transplanting, you will have to sacrifice something: either a pot or a plant, since it will be impossible to remove an earthen ball with roots without cutting them off. Do not buy too narrow tall pots or wide small bowls just because of the "beauty". The first ones are only suitable for anthuriums, whose stem, as it grows, must either be buried or wrapped in wet moss. Small bowls are good only for compositions of succulents, for which the rapid drying of the substrate is even useful.

Question 7. Is it possible to plant a plant in an old pot?

If the plant's roots are not strongly developed (their tips are only slightly visible on the surface of the earthy coma), you can plant it in the same pot. It just needs to be washed away from the old earth hot water and dry a little.

Question 8. Can the pot be used without a drip tray?

A common drawback of those pallets that are sold complete with pots is that they "fit" too tightly to the pots, and there is simply no room for water flowing out when watering. If you buy ceramic trays, then you need to choose dense ones, glazed as with inside, as well as outside. Others often leak water. plastic pallets free from this shortcoming. In addition, they are lightweight and do not break.

Question 9. What tools are needed for transplantation?

Very few tools are required for houseplants. Some do without them, but having an iron or plastic scoop, a hoe, a pointed stick and a pruner will make your work much easier. In addition to the regular garden trowel, it's a good idea to have a smaller version if you have plants in small pots (5-10 cm in diameter). A children's scoop or a tablespoon is quite suitable here. The same with the hoe - an old "stainless steel" fork with a strong handle will complement the kit.

In order to compact the ground in a pot when planting, pointed sticks are used (they are also called "planters"), of different thickness and length, depending on the containers in which the plants will be planted. For large-sized specimens in tubs, prepare a planter from a piece of wooden handle for a rake (it is thinner than a shovel), 60-70 cm long. At one end, make a long oblique cut or cut. With this end, they compact the earth poured a little into the tub. The smaller the capacity, the thinner and shorter the planter will need. A very small one can be replaced by an unnecessary sharpened pencil.

You don't have to buy an expensive pruner. You can choose from inexpensive domestic ones, in which both blades in the direction of travel are most tightly closed. It is even better if you have the opportunity to try it in a store on a fresh tree branch. The secateurs should not "chew" the wood, but cut it cleanly and evenly.

Question 10. How to prepare the soil?

There are indoor crops that need earthen mixtures prepared according to a certain recipe for normal development and flowering, including orchids, bromeliads, azaleas, saintpaulias, cacti. For most others, "average", or, as experts call them, "general" substrates are quite suitable. You can make them yourself by mixing those taken in equal parts turf and leaf soil, humus, peat and sand. But components such as turf and leaf land are not for sale, and you cannot cook them at home. Yes, there is no particular need for this. Now, not only in flower shops, but also in many hardware stores, substrates are sold, prepared on the basis of lowland (black) peat, enriched with essential nutrients. They can be called differently, but should be designed specifically for indoor plants. Of course, they will not be absolutely identical, since the same components can be harvested in different places, but this is not significant. Choose those that are more or less uniform in texture, without large peat clods and not too wet.

Question 11. Can last year's land be used?

If you have preserved land from last year, then most likely it is already completely dry, and in this form it is also not suitable for planting. It can be adjusted immediately before work. To do this, pour the earth into a basin and pour in a little warm water, mix everything properly so that there are no sticky clods left. If necessary, add some more water and mix again. The finished substrate should be slightly damp, not dusty, but not stick together into a lump when compressed. Remove pebbles from it, knead large lumps of soil with your hands.

Question 12. How to prepare a place for work?

The best place in the house for this dinner table in the kitchen, and the bigger it is, the better. Cover its surface with a film, and on top with newspapers in 2-3 layers. In the process, you will have to knock plants out of pots, so put a wooden (you can cut) board closer to the edge. On the table before starting work, place pots, tools, sand, expanded clay, shards and a plastic basin for the earth. Place a trash can next to the table. To litter less on the floor, it is better to lift the bucket onto a chair. If the plants are small, it is more convenient to work while sitting.

Heavy plants in tubs or large pots will need to be transplanted on the floor. If the plant is tall, spreading and heavy, I advise you to do it in the same place where it usually stands. The floor can be protected from bumps and scratches by first laying an old blanket, then oilcloth or thick film, and on top of it - thick paper or newspapers in several layers.

Question 13. What is drainage?

It's a loose layer at the bottom flower pot necessary to remove excess moisture from the soil. Without a drainage layer, wet earth, in contact with the bottom of the pot, will turn sour. The plant may die.

Question 14. How to prepare the drainage?

For drainage, you will need shards, as well as sand or expanded clay, or better, both. For shards, donate an old clay pot. The size of the fragments depends on the size of the drainage holes, usually 2-5 cm across. They should not be too convex, otherwise under their edges, loosely adjacent to the bottom, the earth will "leak" when watering. Harvesting problems river sand and expanded clay, most likely, you will not meet. It is desirable that the sand be coarse-grained, as for expanded clay, then, for large tub plants, it is better to use its coarse fraction.

Question 15. What are the methods of plant transplantation?

There are three ways to transplant plants.

Method 1: the actual transplantation of plants, when the root system is cleared of the old substrate as much as possible.

Method 2: transshipment, in which a clod of earth with roots is preserved. It is carefully pulled out of the pot and then planted in a new prepared pot without breaking.

3 way: replacement of the top layer of the earth. This method is suitable for those plants that you cannot transplant (due to size, for example). Then you loosen (if required) the top layer of the earth, remove it and replace it with a new one.

Question 16. In what cases is it necessary to completely remove the old soil from the roots of the plant?

A real transplant is extremely rare, as the roots are severely injured. To save the plant, its aerial part has to be cut off significantly, thus reducing the evaporation of moisture from the leaves. A plant is subjected to such an operation only in exceptional cases, for example, if the substrate is completely damaged, or when the root system is badly damaged due to improper watering. In the latter case, we are talking more about resuscitation - the roots are not only cleaned of the ground, but also washed in water, and then cut to a healthy tissue. At the same time, the aerial part is also heavily cut off, the plant is planted in a very light substrate and placed in a greenhouse.

Question 17. How to transplant a healthy plant?

Proceed according to the following scheme:

1. Take a new pot and cover the drainage hole (one or more) with a crock (convex side up), a piece of thin Styrofoam, or mosquito net in several layers.

2. Pour drainage to the bottom (fine expanded clay, coarse sand or foam plastic crumbs with a layer of 1-2 cm)

3. Sprinkle a layer of earth (1.5-2.5 cm). It will take such an amount that the root ball installed in the pot is eventually completely covered with earth and there is still 1-2 cm left to the edge of the pot (thus we leave room for watering). But it is also dangerous to bury plants, especially such as palm trees. The ground level should be at the border of the base of the stem, that is, below the root collar (the place where the stem passes into the root). root collar must not be covered with earth!

4. Remove the plant from the old pot and carefully remove some of the earth with your hand, being careful not to damage the roots. You can also lightly scrape off the ground with a fork or hoe. If the roots are heavily entangled with an earthen ball, dry small roots (“felt”) must be cut with a sharp knife. If the roots are poorly developed and barely visible on the surface of the earthy coma, the earth can be cleaned off more thoroughly, trying not to damage the roots. Thick and slightly branched roots do not need to be touched, but only in case of decay, cut to a healthy place, sprinkle cuts with crushed coal.

5. Place the plant exactly in the center of the pot. Spread the roots evenly in the pot.

6. Holding the plant with one hand, with the other hand (possible with a scoop or spoon), gradually add the earth and compact it, push it down with a stick with a sharp end.

Attention! Large specimens are planted tightly, kneading the ground with your fingers. Begonias, saintpaulias, epiphyllums, zygocactus and other species with thin and delicate roots grow better in looser soil. In flowering plants, dense planting causes earlier flowering, and loose planting - active growth.

7. Having filled the required space, already squeeze the ground around the perimeter of the pot with your fingers.

8. Place the plant on the pallet.

9. Water generously until water runs out into the pan.

Attention! Cacti, with the exception of epiphyllums and zygocactus, are not watered for three days after transplantation. Other indoor flowers - on the same day.

10. Put a layer of drainage on top to create a microclimate.

11. After about half an hour, drain the excess water and return the plant to its place.

Question 18. How should I take care of a newly transplanted plant?

In the first 1-2 days, especially in hot weather, transplanted plants should be slightly shaded on a sunny window. It is very useful at this time to spray them with water more often. But next time you need to water only when the surface of the earth in the pot dries.

Plants that have begun to grow can be fed once every 3-4 weeks with a solution of mineral fertilizer (15 g of ammonium nitrate, 15 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium salt per 10 liters of water). Overgrown tubers of begonias are transplanted into pots.

USEFUL TIPS

Indoor plants are fed only during the growth period (March-August).
Water after washing the meat is an excellent fertilizer for indoor flowers.
Thoroughly crushed eggshell and mixed with powdered sugar, you will get an excellent fertilizer for indoor plants.

Phosphorus provides energy processes in plant cells. It is necessary for the rapid maturation of the plant and the transition to flowering, for the maturation of seeds and for the ripening of stems and leaves before a dormant period. Phosphorus helps to increase crop yields, plant resistance to various diseases, increases the sugar content in root crops and starch in tubers, and provides an increased protein content in seeds.

Leaves give out a lack of phosphorus. Older lower leaves are affected first. They become dark green in color, acquire a somewhat bluish tint, brown or red-violet spots appear, which gradually capture the entire leaf completely. Then the growth of shoots and roots is greatly slowed down, new leaves are small, flowering is delayed or the buds do not open. With a lack of phosphorus, the plant does not bloom or blooms weakly, seed boxes do not ripen.

With an excess of phosphorus, interveinal chlorosis appears on the leaves, due to the fact that the absorption of iron and zinc is disturbed in the plant.

06/07/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

According to the degree of solubility phosphate fertilizers divided into water-soluble, semi-soluble and sparingly soluble in water. Water-soluble - this is a simple superphosphate, digestible phosphates are at least 21%; double superphosphate, digestible phosphates 46-43%; and ammophos, contains 52% phosphorus and 12% nitrogen.

Semi-soluble - do not dissolve in water, but dissolve in weak acids - it is a precipitate, contains 27-35% of assimilable phosphates.

Sparingly soluble in water, but soluble in weak acids: phosphate rock contains 22% of digestible phosphates. Water-soluble phosphate fertilizers are used on any soil. Semi-soluble and sparingly soluble are used mainly on acidic soils. They are introduced in advance, thoroughly mixing with the soil, since they are absorbed by plants only after exposure to soil acidity. These fertilizers are not washed out of the soil for a long time, so they are applied 1 time in 5-7 years. It is used for filling the earth in the preparation of soil mixtures (half a teaspoon per 10 liters) for indoor plants.

26.12.09 Nadezhda Galynskaya

Nitrogen- with its lack, growth slows down, the color of the leaves turns pale.

Phosphorus plays an important role in the processes of respiration and photosynthesis. Especially needed in early periods life for root development, flowering and growth.

Potassium increases the resistance of plants against diseases and temperature drops. With a deficiency, brownish-yellow spots appear on the leaves, the edge of the leaf blade dies off, resembling a burn.

Calcium promotes the development of a strong root system. Deficiency causes cessation of root growth, leads to their softening and decay, withering of the aerial parts of the plant, discoloration of young leaves and twisting the edges of the leaves down.

Bor helps to speed up the absorption of calcium and the abundant formation of buds. With a deficiency, the top of the leaves dies, the buds and ovaries fall off.

Magnesium participates in the processes of respiration and photosynthesis. With a deficiency, "marbling" appears on the leaves - they turn pale and become variegated.

iron and manganese participate in redox processes, as a result of which chlorophyll is formed. With a lack of iron, interveinal chlorosis appears. Excess iron has a poisonous effect on the plant.

From lack manganese the tips of young leaves turn red and dry out. With an excess of manganese, the leaves become light yellow. The ratio of these elements should be in proportions: iron is 3-4 times more than manganese.

17.03.09 Nadezhda Galynskaya

In indoor plants, the supply of nutrients in the soil substrate is limited by the volume of the pot. Therefore, it is small and should be systematically replenished. For normal growth and development, plants need nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and trace elements. If you are well acquainted with the agricultural technology of the grown flower and know which fertilizer it suits him better, then you can make a nutrient mixture and a feeding schedule yourself. Beneficial to use garden fertilizers, they are usually cheaper and more economical. When in doubt, it is best to purchase a ready-made, specially formulated fertilizer mix for a particular plant. The only element that needs to be dosed with extreme caution is nitrogen. It is weakly retained in the soil. Nitrogen supplies need to be replenished regularly. The need for it is greatest at the beginning of plant growth. But it is not correct to think that with the beginning of growth, all home flowers should be fed equally.

In many crops (woody, rhizomatous, bulbous), before the growth of the ground part, new roots appear that can supply plants with nutrients. Such plants can use nitrogen immediately at the first sign of ground growth. In tuberous and root-tuber cultures, the stem and leaves first develop due to the nutrients stored in the root-tuber. These plants are usually kept in dry soil during dormancy. During dormancy, the roots die off. At the first sign of awakening, the plants begin to water. In moist soil, tender young roots grow, still unable to absorb anything but water. Ordinary solutions of mineral fertilizers can cause burns and death. True roots develop somewhat later. Therefore, in this case, it is advisable to carry out soil fertilizing with nitrogen after the full development of 2–3 leaves in plants. Foliar mineral dressings at the beginning of the growth of shoots and leaves for tuber crops are also not desirable, since even weak fertilizer solutions can cause burns.

Nitrogen fertilizers stimulate growth, the formation of young shoots and leaves, and prevent the transition to a dormant state. In autumn, with the onset of short daylight hours, young shoots and leaves become elongated and chlorotic due to lack of light and heat. Flowers on them, if they are formed, are weak, frail. In the autumn-winter period, the growth of indoor evergreens must be stopped. When preparing flowers for rest in the winter, nitrogen is excluded from feeding mixtures. Lack of nitrogen causes a decrease in growth and loss of decorative qualities. When plants are overfed with nitrogen, intensive development of the vegetative mass occurs at the expense of flowering. Other side effects may also occur. Excess nitrogen fertilizer is very harmful to cacti. The stems burst due to the fact that the skin grows more slowly than the internal tissues.

It is not recommended to feed weakly or poorly rooted cuttings with nitrogen. The cuttings begin to grow rapidly. And underdeveloped roots do not have time to provide water and other nutrients to fast-growing shoots. Nutrients for young tissues begin to come from older tissues of the cutting, which will lead to their depletion and drying out.

Phosphorus provides the growth of the root system, active flowering and fruiting. Phosphorus fertilizers are almost all poorly soluble in water and remain in the soil in an undissolved form for a long time. This allows you to create a long-term supply of phosphorus in the substrate. Simple and double superphosphate are added to the soil before planting. And often this is enough until the next transplant. In some cases (for shrub and actively flowering crops), additional fertilizing with phosphorus is required. The need for it increases during the formation of inflorescences, flowering and seed formation. For liquid dressings, it is better to use potassium phosphates and ammophos, since they dissolve better than others in water. Superphosphate is also suitable for this, if it is first poured with boiling water and insisted for 3-4 days. Phosphorus does not interfere with the transition of plants from a dormant state. Therefore, it can be applied in the second half of summer and autumn. Phosphate fertilizers increase the resistance of plants to adverse conditions, diseases and pests. Water soil and foliar top dressing with a 1% solution of phosphate fertilizers is often used to protect flower crops from leaf spot, rot, powdery mildew, aphids and scale insects. The lack of phosphorus is accompanied by a sharp retardation of the growth of both ground and underground organs. The leaves turn yellow from the edges and gradually fall off. Flowering and fruit ripening are delayed, flowering time is reduced. Reduced productivity and decorative effect. Excess phosphorus causes premature maturation and aging of plants. With an excess of phosphorus, others do not enter the plant nutrients such as iron, zinc, manganese and other trace elements. And this causes chlorosis along the edge of the leaves. Potassium is also very important for plants. They are fed in the phase of active growth, during the formation of fruits, tubers, bulbs and during the preparation of the plant for dormancy.

Potassium is part of many fertilizers: potassium chloride, potassium salt, potassium sulfate, potassium magnesia, potassium nitrate. The first two contain a lot of chlorine and often should not be used for indoor plants. Potassium nitrate containing nitrogen should be used for top dressing only during active growth. The lack of potassium stops growth, shortens the internodes, changes the shape of the leaves, reduces productivity and resistance to fungal diseases. The leaves develop necrotic brown spots and streaks that gradually merge and cause browning, dying off and premature leaf fall.

trace elements contained in all types of organic fertilizers in the ashes, in various composts. When they are introduced into the soil, plants do not need additional fertilizing with microelements. Plants need trace elements in very small amounts. It is better not to use them than to overestimate the dose. Overdosing does more harm than good. Plants may die or slowly dry out. Micronutrients are usually used in the form foliar dressings. Plants are sprayed with a solution containing 2 g of boric acid, 2 g of ammonium molybdate, 2.5 g of copper sulfate, 2.5 g of manganese sulfate, 2.5 g of zinc sulfate, 2 g of cobalt sulfate in 10 liters of water. You can buy ready-made powder or tablets of trace elements and use them strictly according to the instructions.

Fertilizers for flowers in the garden are necessary for flowering plants, increasing the resistance of flowers to various diseases. To improve the life of the plant, fertilizers and growth stimulants are needed.

Before applying it to the soil, the acidity level should be measured using litmus paper.

This is done every five years. For open ground, the average consumption rates for dolomite flour are as follows:

For acidic soils - this is 500-550 g / sq.m at a pH less than 4.5, no more.
For moderately acidic - this is 450-500 g / sq.m at a pH of 4.5-5.2 no more.
For slightly acidic - this is 350-450 g / sq.m at a pH of 5.2-5.6.

However, it should be noted that in the presence of neutral soils, use dolomite flour not worth it.

Organic fertilizers - their diversity and specificity

The main benefit of organic fertilizers is that the soil improves its structure when applied. They activate the activity of microorganisms that turn any mineral compounds available to plants and vegetables.

The most popular organic fertilizer among flower growers is mullein. To prepare it, you need liquid cow dung, warm water. This mixture is kept in a warm place for about four days, and then used for its intended purpose. Bird droppings fertilizer and compost are also prepared.

An important advantage of organic matter is its ability to accumulate humus in the soil.

Trace elements - their diversity and specificity

Fertilizers for flowers in the garden are rich in various trace elements.

The need for flowers in them is very small, but their lack essentially affects the plant. Flowers speak their own language to the grower. The main thing is to correctly catch their signals.

Signs of microorganism deficiency:

Nitrogen starvation leads to the slow death of flowers. First the leaves turn yellow and then dry.
Phosphorus starvation is detected by the reddish-purple hue of the leaves.
Potassium starvation leads to the appearance of brown spots on the leaves, which subsequently curl.
The lack of calcium, due to which the leaves turn pale, losing color and saturation, leads to the fact that the bud does not open, but gradually dies off.
Lack of copper - faded testify to it, pale leaves, twisted tops, slow shoot growth.
Lack of magnesium leaves turn pale, the veins of the plant become lighter.

In addition to the listed elements, flowers also need the following:

Zinc is required for the formation of growth substances and chlorophyll.
Manganese contributes to the formation of chlorophyll.
Calcium, which contributes to the normal development of a strong root system, increasing resistance to various diseases.
Boron is responsible for supplying the roots with oxygen, as well as for regulating the intake of calcium into plants.
Magnesium is involved in the process of photosynthesis. Iron is required for plant respiration.
Copper is involved in the normalization of protein and carbohydrate metabolism. The disadvantage is that an excess of fertilizer can adversely affect the plant.

An important factor is the time of introduction into the soil for each particular plant.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied in spring. Overfeeding the plant with nitrogen means much harm to them. The introduction of nitrogen before winter will not allow perennials to prepare for the cold.

Phosphorus and potassium are added in autumn. Long flowering annuals need phosphate and potash fertilizers.

If you are in doubt about the timing of fertilizing for flowers in the country and the amount to be applied, follow the instructions on the packages of ready-made fertilizer mixtures.

Use complex fertilizers buy what you need this moment your flowers.

For convenient delivery of fertilizers around the site to flower beds and flower beds, it is best to use a convenient garden wheelbarrow.

Flower seedling, action scheme.

Good luck gardeners!

Nitrogen fertilizers are available in three types: ammonia, amide and nitrate.

Ammonia is: ammonium sulfate, which contains 21% nitrogen and 24% sulfur; sodium nitrate, nitrogen 16%.
Nitrate: ammonium nitrate, it contains nitrogen - at least 34.4%; calcium nitrate and potassium nitrate contain 40-43% nitrogen each.

Amide: carbamide or urea, contains 46.2% nitrogen.

The timing and methods of applying fertilizers depend on the form of nitrogen. Ammonia nitrogen is much easier absorbed by the roots with weak soil acidity, and is fixed in the soil for some time. Therefore, ammonia fertilizers on plots in open field can be applied both in spring and late autumn when preparing the soil for planting. For indoor plants, ammonia fertilizers are used for top dressing in the spring, and for adding to the soil mixture (half or two-thirds of a teaspoon per 10 liters) in preparing the soil for planting and transplanting.

Nitrate nitrogen is not fixed by the soil. It is in the form of a solution. Nitrate fertilizers are easily absorbed by plants and are well suited for spring and summer dressings. They can be applied from early spring to mid-summer.

Nitrogen in amide fertilizers quickly turns into ammonia form - especially when it's hot, at elevated temperatures. In this form, nitrogen is quickly absorbed. Used for dressings. Slightly acidifies the soil.

06/07/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

With an excess of phosphorus, interveinal chlorosis appears on the leaves, due to the fact that the absorption of iron and zinc is disturbed in the plant.

06/07/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

According to the degree of solubility, phosphate fertilizers are divided into water-soluble, semi-soluble and sparingly soluble in water. Water-soluble - this is a simple superphosphate, digestible phosphates are at least 21%; double superphosphate, digestible phosphates 46-43%; and ammophos, contains 52% phosphorus and 12% nitrogen.

Semi-soluble - do not dissolve in water, but dissolve in weak acids - it is a precipitate, contains 27-35% of assimilable phosphates.

06/06/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

Potassium is very important for plants. It is found in young growing organs, in the cell sap of plants and contributes to the rapid accumulation of carbohydrates. Potassium allows plants to use water more economically and productively, enhances the movement of substances in the plant, and promotes the development of the root system. It enhances the synthesis of vitamin C, the fruits acquire a brighter color and aroma, and are stored longer. It is necessary in the phase of active growth, during the formation of fruits, tubers, bulbs and during the preparation of the plant for dormancy. Potassium has a positive effect on plant resistance to drought, low temperatures, pests and fungal diseases.

Potassium deficiency stops growth, shortens internodes on young shoots, changes the shape of the leaves, reduces productivity and resistance to fungal diseases. Leaves wither, discolor and dry out starting at the tip or along the edge. A brown streak often forms between the healthy and shrunken area. With an acute lack of potassium, brown spots appear in the center of the leaves. In cruciferous crops, the leaves become dark green, bronze along the edges and between the veins. And in citrus and nightshade plants, short internodes grow, young leaves become blue-green, wrinkled and twisted up. Old leaves become yellowish, brown or bronze. Necrotic, brown spots and streaks form, which gradually merge and cause browning, death and premature leaf fall. The fruits ripen unevenly. Roots are brown, underdeveloped.

With excess potassium, which is extremely rare, makes it difficult to enter nitrogen fertilizers and micronutrients. Leaves turn pale or discolor.

06/06/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

Fertilizers containing potassium are highly soluble in water and are easily absorbed by plants. Potassium is a part of many fertilizers: potassium chloride, potassium salt, potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium magnesia. Potassium chloride and potassium salt contain 50-60% potassium. But these fertilizers contain a lot of chlorine and should not be used often and in large doses for indoor plants. It is better to feed the plants with these fertilizers in the spring, at the beginning of growth.

Potassium nitrate, (or potassium nitrate, or potassium nitrate, or potassium nitrate) is nitrogen-potassium fertilizer contains potassium 14-16.7% and nitrogen 4.0-5.1%. It is produced specifically for indoor plants and plants in closed ground, negatively reacting to chlorine. It is recommended to use for top dressing only during active growth.

potassium sulfate(or potassium sulfate) - chlorine-free fertilizer, contains 45-53% potassium. Suitable for feeding all potted plants in spring and summer period and especially those that need slightly acidic and acidic soil.

Kalimagnesia contains 35% potassium and 8% magnesium, gives an alkaline reaction. It is used for fertilizing cultures sensitive to chlorine and responding positively to magnesium, growing on all types of soils, especially on peaty and light ones. Potassium magnesia is best suited for large plants. It is also used for application to the soil when preparing a soil substrate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of soil). In open ground, chloride fertilizers are best applied in autumn at higher doses. Autumn rains and spring waters, which are part of them, are washed into the deep layers of the soil and do not harm plants. In small doses, these fertilizers can be applied in the spring. On clayey and loamy soils, potash fertilizers should be applied to those soil layers where the bulk of small roots develop in order to ensure a rapid supply of potassium to them. On the sandy soils potassium is less than on clay, so the need for potash fertilizers is higher here. On light and peaty soils, application potash fertilizers since autumn it is undesirable due to the leaching of potassium.

06/06/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

feeding
homemade ornamental plants or seedlings
we use small doses, but not always
scales are available. Help with this
common household items - spoons, glasses
and matchboxes or measuring beakers.
Weight of the most common mineral
fertilizers contained in the volume of a spoon
or glass is given in the table. Accuracy
table is approximately 0.5 g. Pour
fertilizer in any container to the level with
edges, without a slide.

Table - Weight
mineral and lime fertilizers
in grams

fertilizers	Glass, volume 200 ml	Matchbox volume 20 ml	Tablespoon, volume 15 ml	Tea spoon, volume 5 ml
Ammonia saltpeter	163	17	12	4
Slaked lime	120	12	9	3
Dolomitic flour	300	30	23	8
lime flour	340	34	26	9
potash salt	220	22	17	5-6
Urea (urea)	130	13	10	3
Ammonium sulfate	186	19	14	5
potassium sulfate	260	26	20	6-7
Superphosphate granulated	220	22	17	5-6
Superphosphate double	200	20	15	5
Superphosphate simple	240	24	18	6
Phosphoric flour	350	35	28	6
Chloride potassium	190	19	14	5
Effect-2	204	20	15	5

If use
measuring beakers or cups, then
use a scale for water or
liquids. Attention! Measuring spoons
for various dietary supplements and cocktails
not suitable for fertilizers!

05/25/10 Nadezhda Galynskaya

- Is it possible and in what quantities to use ammonium nitrate, superphosphate, potassium salt for feeding houseplants? How much solution is needed for one top dressing?

- Everyone is used to using ready-made fertilizers for indoor plants. But you can cook them yourself.

During growth, fertilizers are applied with a predominance of nitrogen, and before flowering there should be more phosphorus and potassium.

Spring and early summer, during the growth of plants for feeding in 10 liters of water, dilute 2.5 tsp. ammonium nitrate, half a teaspoon of potassium salt, 1 tsp. superphosphate. 50?-70 ml of fertilizer solution is poured into 1 liter of soil. One liter of fertilizer mixture solution feeds 10-15 plants. Before applying the fertilizer solution, the soil is well watered.

Before flowering and during flowering top dressing is prepared from: 1.5 tsp. ammonium nitrate and 2.5 tsp. potassium salt and 2.5 tsp. superphosphate per 10 liters of water. You can add a little micro-fertilizers (as indicated on the bag). From March to September, plants should be fed 1-2 times a month. Fast growing ones are fed more often than slow growing ones. Top dressing at the root is alternated with spraying the leaves with these fertilizer solutions (this is foliar top dressing).

Slow growing plants and mature palms feed once a quarter, and large specimens - twice. During the period of budding and flowering, more frequent top dressing is needed. Asparagus, gardenia, hibiscus, oleander, passionflower, coleus, roses are fed once a week. Aukuba, codia, poinsettia - every 10 days; and abutilon, dracaena, jasmine, clivia, coffee, pelargonium, ficus 2 - once a month; pelargonium, sansevieria - once a month.

Large flowers growing in the autumn-winter period are fed at the beginning of growth with the following solution of mineral fertilizers. For I liter of water take 1.5 g of urea and ammonium nitrate, I g of potassium salt, 1.5 g of superphosphate. Do not forget about organic fertilizers - infusions of mullein (1:10), bird droppings (1:40). Excellent top dressing for succulents and cacti - slightly acidified water, in which boiled crushed eggshells have lain for several days.

For citrus x you can use a strained 2-hour decoction of bones and scales of salmon (or other large marine fish).

Another important thing to know about top dressing is that diseased plants do not fertilize. First you need to understand the cause of the disease. A common mistake is that the roots rot from excess fertilizer, and they are fed again.

After transplantation, the plants are not fed. They must first properly take root and start growing. Evergreen leafy plants can be fed with fertilizers no earlier than 7-10 days after transplantation, and the rest - after 15 days.

Other mineral fertilizers can also be used for top dressing. Nitrogen is found in ammonium nitrate, potassium nitrate, calcium nitrate, urea. Phosphorus contains simple superphosphate, double superphosphate, potassium phosphate. The source of potassium is potassium salt. Calcium is found in calcium nitrate, calcium sulfide. Magnesium is found in magnesium sulfate. Iron contains ferrous sulfates, ferric chlorides. The source of manganese will be manganese sulfate. Boron is added with boric acid, while copper and zinc are added with copper sulfate and zinc sulfate, respectively. A solution of potassium permanganate of low concentration is used for watering plants 2 times a year as a source of trace elements.

For abundantly flowering and flowering plants, such a mineral dressing is suitable. Dissolve 1 g of ammonium sulfate, 1 g of potassium salt (30-40%) and 1.5 g of superphosphate in 1 liter of water. Water the plants with this solution once a week during budding and flowering.

Decorative leafy plants like a different composition of fertilizers. For 1 liter of water, add 0.4 g of ammonium nitrate, 0.1 g of potassium nitrate and 0.5 g of simple superphosphate. Water the plants 2 times a month while the leaves are growing.

own mixture of trace elements and fertilizers for succulents, cacti, citrus and azaleas can be prepared as follows. In 0.5 l of water, dissolve 1 g of salts of calcium, magnesium, iron, manganese, copper, zinc and boric acid, 2 g of ammonium nitrate, 2 g of potassium salt and 3 g of double superphosphate. When watering, dilute 1 teaspoon of this solution in 1.0-0.5 liters of water, depending on the size of the pot and plant.

A good fertilizer is wood ash containing potassium, phosphorus and calcium. An infusion is made - 25 g of ash is poured into a liter of water and infused for a week, the infusion is shaken daily. It is used together with organic fertilizers or separately after flowering plants. Before planting, ash is added to the soil - 1 part of ash per 50 parts of land.

Summer for top dressing use nettle. Fresh nettle 1 kg or 200 g dry pour 10 liters of water and leave for a day. The strained infusion is diluted in a ratio of 1:10 and the plants are watered 1-2 times during the summer between other top dressings.