How to make a beautiful table with your own hands. Dining table with your own hands. Moving on to the living room
This piece of furniture is one of the most versatile in use. The table can be a dining table, household table, installed in a living room, on a veranda, territory, in a workshop, and so on. In a word, it is impossible to do without it. But purchased products do not suit many for a number of parameters - size, design features, shape, or for another reason.
Given that the tree is relatively easy to cut, grind, make a table out of it according to your own drawing, with your own hands for a good owner is not a problem. Yes, and it will be much cheaper. Plus - satisfaction from such work.
room
This is ideally an extension, a barn, an empty garage, although a small area under a canopy is also suitable. To work with a tree on a site, in the open air, means to be completely dependent on the vagaries of the weather. If there are “square meters” suitable for making furniture, then you should worry about high-quality ventilation in advance. Natural is sometimes not enough (besides, it depends on the change in wind direction and pressure), and an exhaust hood is installed.
Arguments that if you use protective equipment, then you can work in a closed space, do not stand up to scrutiny. Wood dust will immediately settle on everything, including the sample with which some actions are performed. Neither an accurate cut along the line, nor a high-quality surface treatment of wood (not to mention the impregnation and finish coating with a paint and varnish composition) can not be obtained.
It is impossible not to take into account the fact that many preparations used for wood processing contain toxic components. For example, varnishes, paints, impregnations, if they are not natural, then harmful fumes are guaranteed.
Tools
Their set depends on the extent to which it is planned to “ennoble” a simple wood structure, what shape to give it and a number of other nuances. If the master does not claim the elegance of a wooden table, does not aim to achieve its originality, then the usual carpentry set will be enough.
For more “fine” work in the process of making a table of unusual shapes, external design, special devices will be needed.
El / jigsaw. With a conventional saw, it will not work to make an inclined vertical cut, accurately maintaining the angle. The canvas will “play”, and therefore the quality of the work will be extremely low. The electric jigsaw is universal in use, besides it gives high accuracy in cutting wood or cuts in it.
Many of the listed fixtures can be rented if furniture making is not a hobby, but a necessity.
Impregnation and other compounds
Rotting protection:
- Working off engine oil is an effective, moreover, free tool. But not for dinner tables.
- Linseed oil. A natural and effective product that penetrates deep into the wood structure and protects it from mold and mildew. Minus - high cost. But if the table is intended for eating - a great option. The drug has no color, therefore, after processing the lumber, it does not leave any traces in the form of darkening, stains, streaks, unlike mining.
- The emulsion is water-polymer. It is characterized by duration of action and safety for health.
- Acrylic varnishes. They practically replaced their predecessors of the "NC" category, as they are harmless and in many respects better than compounds that are diluted with solvents.
- PVA, bone glue and a number of others. More detailed information about carpentry compositions -.
To decorate a tree:
- Colorless varnishes are used not only to protect the material from moisture. With their help, you can save the texture of the tree, shade it.
- Wood stains.
- Varnishes with a coloring effect (toning).
- Paints (but only for wood!).
- Putties.
Using a colorless varnish and pigments, you can make a coloring composition, and any shade. It is enough just to correctly determine the proportion of components. This is easy to do by experimenting with mixing and applying a sample to a rejected board. This will allow you to choose an acceptable tone. More than expedient, since it is not always possible to buy exactly what you need on the market.
Fasteners
All tips for assembling a wooden table with nails (the argument is simple, fast and cheap) are best ignored. The reasons are as follows:
- A nail easily pricks a dry tree (and this is exactly what is taken; more on that below).
- Correctly directing his leg (strictly vertically) is quite difficult. In some cases, it is even more difficult to redo your oversight.
- A tree, even the most protected from rot, eventually succumbs to it. The maintainability of a table knocked down with nails is extremely low. Practice shows that it is rarely possible to remove such fasteners without damaging adjacent structural parts. As a result, instead of the planned replacement of one element, 2 - 3 will have to be changed.
- When assembling a wooden table, if one glue is not enough, you should use only self-tapping screws.
- Sometimes its individual parts (at the joints) require reinforcement. It is not advisable to strengthen the strength with a hardware with a thicker and longer leg. The reason is the same - the probability of splitting the tree. For these purposes, metal strips, brackets, corners are used.
Features of the choice of wood
Someone focuses on the cost of lumber, another is important for the resistance of the tree to decay, for the third - its texture. What can you recommend to a novice furniture maker? Do not use for the table, unless it is intended to be installed somewhere in the back room or garage, the same type of wood. This is exactly what many novice "craftsmen" do, picking up the same type of boards and bars from what is left of the construction or repair and gathering dust in the barn.
When making a wooden table for living quarters, verandas, and so on, you need to take into account the properties of individual species. Naturally, if there is not enough experience in assembling furniture, you should pay attention to cheaper wood. The first table (chair, stool) in life is just a kind of training in manufacturing, gaining experience.
Tabletop. Here in the first place - strength and minimal absorption of moisture. It is on this part of the table that something is constantly spilled. The best choice is pine, larch, oak (although the latter is more expensive). Thickness - at least 3 cm.If the dimensions of the countertop are small, then wood-based slab products (OSV and the like) can be used. But only with lamination to prevent swelling of the material when liquid enters the surface of the table. For example, LDSP.
In the furniture industry, low-grade lumber is not used. This is not economically feasible, since pre-treatment of wood increases the duration of the production cycle. But in the manufacture of something, wood of lower grades, substandard - just right. The same pallets left after using stacks of foam blocks or bricks.
And not just because it's free or relatively cheap. Many of the disadvantages of such wood with a competent approach can be turned into pluses. For example, after coating with a colorless varnish, the countertop acquires a unique original look.
The main thing is that the boards do not have obvious defects in the form of rot, cracks, falling knots and wormholes.
If pine is chosen for the countertop (this also applies to many other conifers), then you need to pay attention to the location of the annual rings. These arcs are called humpbacks. The cuts of the boards show how they are oriented, and this is taken into account in the process of laying them in a row. Samples obtained by the tangential sawing method are arranged in alternation (pink down, the next one up); radial cutting - the same way (with arcs in the same direction). The nuance is insignificant, but it is the observance of this recommendation that eliminates the risk of warping and splitting of the boards.
For furniture, if you think about its durability, you should take only dry lumber. During the drying of the wood, it will deform; this is a natural process, and its consequences in the form of twisting, warping, bending are inevitable. Such a table will quickly begin to warp, and you will have to deal with its repair. And here you need to decide whether to purchase high-dry wood or rid it of moisture yourself. The first option is simpler, but such a tree is more expensive. The second will cost less, but there are a number of purely technical difficulties.
- Firstly, it is necessary to ensure a stable temperature regime in the place where the blanks are stored. Changes in its value will lead to uneven evaporation of moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the tree.
- Secondly, good ventilation must be organized.
- Thirdly, and, perhaps, this is the most unpleasant moment - you will have to wait, up to about six months, depending on the initial moisture content of the tree. But this is not a guarantee that the result will be expected; Even this takes practice.
This once again confirms the idea that when starting to make wood furniture for the first time, one should focus on the simplest table for household needs from cheap lumber, without pretensions to its sophistication and originality of design. For example, for a barn, garage and the like.
Variants and schemes of wooden tables
It should be noted right away that any work related to the design and self-assembly is a creative process. There are no stereotypes in this business, so you can only take the model you like as a basis, and everything else - linear parameters, shape, manufacturing specifics - depends on the purpose of the product and your own imagination. Here are just a few examples of what wooden tables can be. For example, for summer cottages, small utility rooms, it is worth choosing structures whose geometry can be easily changed - folding, hiking, hanging, garden, level, and so on.
Tables that are supposed to be used for eating, playing games, as coffee tables for installation in living rooms for a specific purpose, are made stationary, that is, of unchanging size. These assemblies are more “solid”, since all articulated parts are fixed rigidly; no articulated joints.
Features of the assembly of wooden tables
If a person undertakes to make something, then he knows how to use the tool, read the drawings and work with lumber. Such a home master does not need to be taught the basics of carpentry. But a number of nuances in the manufacture of a wooden table will be useful to note. These notes will only help in the process of work.
Let's start with the types of connections. There are quite a few of them, but for a table that is assembled with your own hands, the following are quite enough.
On dowels
In this case, the parts are fastened by landing on the adhesive composition (Fig. 1 - 3).
The nuance is that for the manufacture of "cylinders" that are inserted into pre-drilled "channels", a tree of a denser structure is taken than the elements of the table. This is what ensures the strength of the connections. Before installing them, chamfers are removed from the edges of the dowels and holes.
These round sticks are commercially available, in any furniture store, in several sizes. To grind them, even with a carpentry machine, is a waste of time. It is not recommended to purchase plastic dowels for the table; they are used for collapsible connections. For example, frame furniture (walls, multi-level racks, etc.).
Nails should not be used to fix table elements (Fig. 4). Metal and wood differ in the degree of thermal expansion. Such a connection will not last long - a “shat” will begin, especially if the table is intended for installation on the territory or in an unheated room.
On the tsargs
It is advisable to make such connections if the table has to be either periodically disassembled, or without it it cannot be moved through the doorway. Although not all kings involve the dismantling of the structure. The most practiced options are shown in the figures.
Bolted
Such connections are mainly used for garden or outbuilding furniture; for utility tables. An example is shown in the figure.
The nuance of working with fasteners
In order for the self-tapping screw to be easily screwed in and “go” in the right direction, a hole is first made at the point of its installation with a drill, with a diameter slightly smaller than the fastener leg. The main thing is to maintain the coincidence of the center lines, that is, to prevent skew. In this case, for the "landing" of the self-tapping screw, you can do without a screwdriver.
Features of wood processing
Everyone knows that a planer is used first, an abrasive with a large grain, and then a fine one. But sometimes it turns out that the last stage, grinding, has to be done repeatedly. Here much depends on the type of wood and the degree of its drying. After applying the first layer of varnish, the villi may “stand up”. Nothing wrong with that. You should wait for the workpiece to dry and repeat its processing with an abrasive. The work is painstaking and takes time. But it is by this technique that you can bring the "problem" wood to the ideal "smoothness".
To eliminate the risk of injury to a person, all edges and corners of the table should be slightly rounded.
Features of the exterior
- Minor defects in the form of cracks, chips are eliminated with a putty composition.
- After sanding, all wood dust must be removed. In this case, an ordinary household vacuum cleaner with an appropriate nozzle will help out. After such cleaning, it is recommended to wipe the entire table with a slightly damp cloth, let it dry and repeat the cleaning of the remaining dust. After that, you can safely proceed to applying stain or varnish - there will be no “pellets” on the tree.
- You can give originality to the table not only with the help of curly cutouts, an unusual shape of the tabletop or legs, a combination of textures of different species, and so on. One of the good options is art painting.
And finally. Work on the independent manufacture of something from wood (the same table) is just the initial stage in mastering the skill of the “assembly designer”. Having worked out the technologies, techniques on wood, having acquired the necessary skills, it is enough just to switch to other materials - metal, plastic, glass. So the benefits of a wooden table, made according to even the simplest drawing (except for the pleasure of work and the money saved) are obvious - not wasted time.
If you dream of having a good time on your personal plot, then you just need a large table that can accommodate a company of your friends and relatives. And you can do it yourself, spending quite a bit of time on it. In some cases, you may need an assistant, sometimes an extra pair of hands will not hurt.
This article is a detailed step-by-step instruction for making a wooden table for a summer residence.
Materials:
- A - Legs: bars 5×10 cm, 106 cm long (2 pcs.), 43 cm long (2 pcs.) and 56 cm long (2 pcs.);
- B - Frame: bars 5 × 10 cm, 87 cm long (2 pcs.);
- C - Table top: boards 5×15 cm, length 180 cm (6 pcs.);
- D - Table top base: boards 5x15 cm, length 87 cm (2 pcs.), bars 5x10 cm, length 62 cm (2 pcs.).
The first stage of the project is the manufacture of table legs. Saw off the bars of the required size. To speed up the process, you can use a circular saw. Smooth out the edges of the bars and saw-off lines with sandpaper.
Connect the bars so that you get an X-shaped structure, and fasten them with 60 mm self-tapping screws, remembering to pre-drill the pilot holes. Lubricate the joints with glue. Make sure there are no cracks or gaps left.
Fasten each pair of legs with a horizontal bar using 60 mm self-tapping screws for this purpose. Cut off the ends of the bars, as shown in the figure.
Lay the boards intended for the manufacture of countertops on a flat surface. We advise you to place pieces of 6 mm plywood between them, this will allow you to form uniform gaps. Place the assembled table sides on the table top and secure them by screwing in the self-tapping screws at an angle of 90 mm. Before fixing, make sure that the legs and the tabletop are perpendicular using a spirit level.
Place the sawn pieces of 5x15 cm board on the underside of the table top and fix them with 60 mm self-tapping screws.
Saw off the ends of the bars, which will act as reinforcing supports for the structure, at an angle of 45º. Install the supports in their place and secure with 90mm self-tapping screws at an angle.
And finally, last but not least: check if the heads of the screws protrude above the wooden surface, and fill all the cracks and holes with wood putty.
Tip: To protect wood surfaces from the damaging effects of atmospheric moisture, coat them with several coats of exterior paint or stain.
Table with benches. Instruction with drawings
Materials:
- A - Legs: bars 5x10 cm, length 95 cm (4 pieces);
- B - Crossbeams: bars 5 × 10 cm long 160 cm (2 pcs.);
- C - Tabletop fastening: bars 5×10 cm, 75 cm long (5 pcs.);
- D - Inclined supports: bars 5 × 10 cm long 84 cm (2 pcs.);
- E - Worktop: boards 5×10 cm, length 180 cm (14 pcs.).
It is worth starting work with the manufacture of legs. Since the legs of this table will be inclined, the ends of the 100 cm long bars should be cut at an angle of 30º. Connect the elements with 90 mm bolts.
Make sure the surface you are working on is fairly level. The mounted sidewalls of the table must be identical, only in this case you can hope for an excellent end result.
When the sides of the table are ready, you can start making a wooden table top. We recommend that you put it together on the ground (floor), and then fasten it to the legs with self-tapping screws.
Tip: Remember to check the verticality of the side walls of the table with a spirit level, otherwise the end result of your work is unlikely to satisfy you.
Rigidly fix the entire structure with inclined supports. Their ends must first be cut at an angle of 26º.
Now it remains only to build benches. Saw off the boards of the desired size, place them on both sides of the table and, having previously drilled several pilot holes at a distance of at least 1 cm from the edges, secure with self-tapping screws.
Tip: To keep the seat boards evenly spaced, place nails or pieces of plywood between them before fixing them. Thanks to this little trick, all the gaps will be the same.
At the end of the work, pay attention to small, but very important touches. Fill all cracks and holes with wood putty. After the putty has dried, sand the wooden surfaces with medium-grit sandpaper.
Tip: Be sure to apply several coats of paint or stain to protect wood surfaces from water and sunlight.
Round table. We do it on our own in the country
Materials:
- A - Base: bar 5x10 cm long 102.5 cm (1 pc.) and 47 cm long (2 pcs.), bars 2.5x10 cm 9 cm long (4 pcs.);
- B - Racks: bars 10 × 10 cm, 60 cm long (4 pcs.);
- C - Tabletop base: 5x10 cm bars 82.5 cm long (1 pc.) and 52.5 cm long (2 pcs.), 2.5x10 cm bars 47.5 cm long (4 pcs.) and 60 cm long (2 pcs.) ;
- D - Tabletop: boards 2.5×15 cm long 195 cm (9 pcs.).
The first stage of the project is to create the base of the table. To articulate its constituent elements, use waterproof glue and self-tapping screws. Make sure that the corners formed by the joined beams are straight. To protect the assembled table base from rotting from rainwater, place it on small stands made from 2.5x10 cm board scraps.
Now you need to attach four posts made of square bars to the base. Before fixing, make sure they are vertical with a spirit level. The height of the legs may differ from those proposed by us, in this case, you should, first of all, focus on your own needs.
The most difficult stage of the project is the manufacture of countertops. Place the boards on a flat surface and mark the center of the square. Fasten one end of a 60 cm rail at this point. Rotating the second end of the rail, mark the outlines of the circle. A jigsaw with a sharp blade will allow you to make circular cuts at a high professional level.
After sawing the boards of the future tabletop, we recommend that you fasten them together with waterproof glue and additionally fix them with a few clamps. Attach the bars that serve as the base of the tabletop, as shown in the picture (yellow elements should be made from 5x10 cm bars, green - from 2.5x10 cm bars).
Tip: Use waterproof glue and galvanized self-tapping screws to fasten the battens to the table top (30mm screws for 2.5x10cm battens and 50mm for 5x10cm battens).
After the glue has dried, you must attach the legs to the base of the tabletop with 90mm self-tapping screws, pre-drilling pilot holes. Use a spirit level to check the perpendicularity of the legs and the tabletop.
To ensure that the result of your work corresponds to a high professional level, make sure that the heads of the self-tapping screws are recessed deep enough. Cover all cracks and holes with wood putty, after it dries, sand the surface with sandpaper.
Tip: Apply several coats of outdoor paint or wood stain to protect the table from moisture damage. To ensure that the base stands are also untouched by water, place the table on a concrete surface and insulate them hermetically.
Now you know how to make your own picnic table. One has only to make a little effort, which will subsequently be rewarded with enthusiastic exclamations of friends and pleasant summer evenings spent with the family at a large table.
An indispensable thing in any interior is a kitchen table. This attribute of furniture can perform many functions. Tables can be not only dining. For example, using a table like a bar counter, you can successfully divide the space of the room. At the same time, it will also fulfill its intended purpose. You can get acquainted with many similar ideas from the photo of the kitchen table in any catalog.
The type and purpose of the table depends solely on the wishes and needs of the owner. To date, a huge range of furniture is on sale, from which you can choose the appropriate option.
But if you want to save money or strive to be original, you can make furniture yourself. Therefore, we will consider what and how you can make a kitchen table with your own hands.
Varieties of kitchen tables
If you decide to make a table yourself, you must first carry out preparatory work. The preparatory stage involves the choice of style, shape, size of the future product. It is also necessary to calculate and prepare the place of its installation. If the table is built-in, consider mounting options.
There are many types of tables, for example, the following:
- classic;
- corner;
- transformers;
- retractable;
- folding.
In the tables you can make cabinets or drawers. When choosing the type and size of the table, you should focus primarily on the size of the kitchen, the purpose of the future product, as well as the style in which the room is equipped.
In a kitchen of small area, it would be appropriate to use a folding, corner, bar table. Any ideas how to make a kitchen table are welcome. Thanks to this solution, a significant amount of space is saved.
To save space and ensure the functionality of furniture, it is recommended to use transforming tables. A small table that folds out into a large dining table does two things at once.
A great idea to save space in the kitchen are tables that extend from the kitchen unit. And the option of a bar counter is suitable as a division of space in a large kitchen or studio apartment.
Material selection
For the manufacture of a classic version of the dining table, natural wood (oak, walnut) is ideal. Inexperienced craftsmen are advised to choose pine boards, as they are easier to process. Such furniture will give the interior luxury and elegance. But it is worth remembering that wooden products require special care.
The most popular material for making furniture is chipboard. Its main advantage is an affordable price. But when purchasing it from an unverified manufacturer, one cannot be sure of the safety of the material.
MDF can be considered a more reliable and safe material from this category. You can also purchase special furniture boards.
For the kitchen table, metal is allowed, it is better to choose stainless steel. Metal furniture is durable. But such a product will cost a lot, you will also need to use tablecloths.
Making a wooden table
Before you get started, prepare a drawing of the kitchen table and the necessary tools. Legs are better to buy ready-made. To make a countertop, the width of which will be 80 cm, dry boards 1 meter 20 centimeters long are needed.
Each board is sanded so that the edges are perfectly even, and there are no voids at the junction. Connect the prepared boards with dowels. Lay them towards the drawings to avoid deformation.
According to the instructions on how to make a kitchen table, holes must be made at the end of each board, the distance between which should be no more than 15 centimeters.
Attach the table legs to the base with screws. Make holes for mounting the tabletop in each longitudinal board. The tabletop can be fixed to the base after twelve hours, when the glue dries. The finished table needs to be painted or varnished on its surface.
Note!
DIY kitchen tables photo
Note!
Note!
Regardless of the size of the kitchen, whether it is a spacious kitchen in a new building, a country house or a small one in a small family, the most important piece of furniture is the kitchen table. Various building materials are used today for the production of tables, for example, glass, metal, stone, plastic, wood. But of all these materials, wood is still used more often. If you want to save money, then the kitchen table can be made independently. In this scenario, you can save up to 70% of the cost of the table. But first you should work hard and take into account a large number of factors that we will consider together with you in this article.
Making important measurements and calculations
Before starting work on the manufacture of the kitchen table, it is important to make some calculations. Usually such tables are calculated for a specific number of people. As a rule, this number ranges from three to nine. But it is best to take into account a couple of extra places in the calculations, in case guests arrive. If you are hospitable hosts, then most likely you will need a large table that can accommodate up to fifteen people.
Important calculations:
- The working length for one person should be 60 cm. This figure is multiplied by the number of people. The resulting figure will be the perimeter of the future table.
- How exactly the table will be installed: in the middle of the kitchen, near the wall. In the first version, the table will be able to accommodate more guests.
- Will the table have drawers or other accessories.
Decide on the size and location. The optimal table width is 80-110 cm. If a narrower table is planned, then you will have difficulty serving. In the case of choosing an oval table shape, it is necessary to calculate the circumference. To do this, multiply the square of the radius by the number Pi (3.14).
Round or oval kitchen tables are necessarily located only in the center of the kitchen.
- Do not place the table near the stove.
- You can not put a table under the air conditioner.
It is equally important to decide on the shape of the table. Surface geometry can drastically change the look of an entire space. It directly depends on the shape whether it will be convenient to eat or not. Most of all, a rectangular shape with right angles is in demand. These countertops are great for square or rectangular kitchens. At the same time, it can be placed near the wall or in the center of the room.
Oval-shaped tables are also very popular. There are several valid reasons:
- The oval table has an attractive appearance.
- There is no need to go around corners. This is especially convenient when there are small children in the house.
- An oval table is best suited for a formal meal.
There are a lot of advantages in favor of an oval shaped kitchen table. But in the presence of a large family, it is inferior to a rectangular shape. There are also round shapes, but with this option it will be inconvenient to take certain dishes. As for the oval table top, the ideal diameter is 140 cm.
So, when choosing the shape of the table, start mainly from your own taste. Moreover, remember that for a kitchen of 8 m 2 or less, an oval table will be impractical, as it will require a lot of free space.
We prepare drawings and tools
If you have decided on the size and shape of the kitchen table, then you can proceed to the next step - drawing up a drawing. It should display the required dimensions of the surface, legs and other elements. You should consider the method of fastening certain nodes. Consider, for example, a kitchen table that will have the following dimensions: 120x60x75.
Although such a table will be small, you can easily understand the principle of making such furniture using its example. In your drawing, you can resize the table according to your needs.
You will need:
- Tabletop 1.2 × 0.6 m - 1 piece.
- Cross jumpers 40 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
- Longitudinal jumpers 100 × 2.5 cm - 2 pieces.
- Table legs 70 cm high - 4 pieces.
To build a countertop, you need to prepare boards of the appropriate size. Before starting work, you will need to consider the method of attaching important nodes.
First of all, you will need to collect all the necessary tools and materials:
- plane,
- hacksaw,
- electric jigsaw,
- screwdriver,
- sandpaper,
- ruler or tape measure
- square,
- pencil,
- circular saw,
- milling machine,
- file,
- clamps,
- paint brush,
- wood glue,
- polyurethane varnish: matt or glossy,
- solvent.
When everything is ready, you can get to work.
Assembly Guide: Countertop Requirements
As for the countertop, it is important to decide whether it will be sliding or not. For example, when assembled, the table can be used for cooking, and in a sliding state as a means for eating.
The countertop should not absorb odors and grease. Also consider practicality.
A good countertop should not absorb moisture, withstand strong impacts. The surface of the table should not be afraid of steam, condensate and high temperature. All these requirements are met by a countertop made of natural and artificial stone or covered with ceramic tiles. But it should be noted that such a table will look only in the interior of modern style.
One of the most common types of countertops is chipboard, laminated with film or covered with plastic. At the price of chipboard plates are available to many. Moreover, such material is the easiest to work with. Some may deny that chipboard countertops are practical. This is partly true, but with proper processing, it will last more than one year. Here are some recommendations and tips for working with chipboard countertops:
- The film or plastic should be rounded at the ends of the chipboard.
- Each 90° rounded end is treated with silicone.
- However, in this position, the end is vulnerable to moisture ingress, so it is better to wrap the end 180 °.
You should be objective and mention the disadvantages of such a countertop. If the chipboard swells, then there is no way to fix this problem. As a result, you will have to make a new table or at least a countertop. But, on the other hand, such a surface is resistant to aggressive detergents and mechanical stress.
Of course, if we talk about the most ideal and environmentally friendly option, then here the tree rightfully comes first. But in the care of such a surface is more capricious. Do not allow moisture to penetrate into the wood, allow scratches and other damage. Microbes can settle and multiply inside them, which adversely affect the mechanical strength of wood. Therefore, from time to time, wood countertops must be varnished, cleaned, and opened with a layer of wax.
leg requirements
The number of legs will vary depending on the shape and size of the table. For example, if you are making a table from chipboard, then 4 legs will be enough, which are attached to the corners of the tabletop. If you make strong wooden legs, then this design will be durable and strong.
Legs can be made by hand. To do this, you can purchase a ready-made sketch. The complexity of this work will depend entirely on the shape of the legs. If you think that this is beyond your power, then purchase ready-made metal legs or choose carved wooden ones. Everything will depend on your financial capabilities.
The table can be on one leg. As mentioned above, this will depend directly on the weight, shape and configuration of the countertop and the table as a whole.
The table, which has one massive leg, looks impressive and beautiful from the side. For its installation, a high-quality cruciform strapping is performed.
Two massive legs are located at a certain distance from each other. In most cases, a table with two legs is rectangular or oval. The advantage of such structures is that the legs will not interfere with any of the sitting people. As for the design of such legs, they expand at the bottom to increase the area of \u200b\u200bsupport. Between themselves, they are connected by a jumper board.
But ordinary tables with four legs are simple in design and do not need precise and complex calculations. This table is stable and durable. The most important thing here is to choose the right size of the legs and mount them at the right distance. At the same time, tables on four legs can be very different in shape: oval, round, square, rectangular.
So, regardless of the number of legs chosen in your design, their aesthetics always remain the most important. The aesthetic appeal of the table legs is even more important than the beauty of the countertop. After all, the tabletop is always covered with a tablecloth or oilcloth, and the legs are always visible.
We build a folding table
One of the simple shapes of the kitchen table is rectangular. This design consists of four legs and six sidewalls of the box. The table top and sidewalls can be made from 18 mm chipboard, and the legs from a 40 × 40 mm bar. First you need to make plywood drawers, 2 cm thick (table legs will be attached to them), as well as two horizontal strips. It is on them that the removable part of the table will be placed. In our case, for the manufacture you will need to purchase the following material:
- Self-tapping screws 4×16.
- Self-tapping screws 4×50.
- Furniture corners 30×30.
- Laminated edges in the color of chipboard.
- Wooden dowels 8×40.
To make the table move apart, you can use standard guides. They provide smooth movement of the countertop. So, all the necessary parts of the following sizes are pre-made:
- Leg 710 mm.
- Two fixed parts 450×700 mm.
- Removable part 400×700 mm.
- For the box of the fixed part, there are four sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
- For the box for fixed parts, two end 600 × 120 mm.
- From plywood, two side drawers 830 × 120 mm.
- From plywood, two end sides 498 × 120 mm.
- To accommodate a removable tabletop, two strips 498 × 120 mm.
With such blanks, you get a sliding table in size:
- Extended 1300×700 mm.
- Assembled 900×700 mm.
It is best to cut all the blanks on special equipment. This is important in order to accurately withstand all dimensions. All blanks made of plywood and wood should be carefully cleaned and varnished in two layers.
So, step by step instructions:
- First of all, the side and longitudinal drawers are fixed on the outside of the legs flush with the ends. After that, with the help of self-tapping screws 4 × 50 mm, corners are attached from the outside and from the inside 4 × 16 mm. The corners are attached to the longitudinal tsargs through horizontal slats.
- Further, a wide guide is fixed on the inside of the side tsarga.
- Under the dowels, you will need to drill two holes on the inner ends of the countertop. They are attached for a collapsible connection, that is, one half will be free, and the second will be attached to the glue. From the dowel to the edge of the countertop, the distance should be equal, but not exceed 10 cm.
- Two dowels are mounted on a removable table top. To do this, two holes are drilled on the reverse side.
- At the next stage, it's time to assemble the U-shaped parts of the box from chipboard. In this case, the end elements 600 × 120 should be located between the sidewalls 420 × 120 mm.
- Now screw on the narrow guides. This is necessary so that the chipboard box moves on average 2 mm higher than the plywood collet.
- After that, the guides snap into place and are checked for movement along the drawer.
- Attach the non-removable part of the tabletop using corners and 4x16mm self-tapping screws. Both parts must match perfectly. Therefore, just before attaching them, slide both parts and check their alignment. Then carefully push the drawers apart and secure the countertops.
- On the shelf inside the table, place the removable part of the tabletop.
Folding table - an original solution for a small kitchen!
If your kitchen has a miniature size, then choosing the right shape for the kitchen table can be difficult. However, there is always a way out. For example, you can build a homemade folding table. When folded, it will serve as a decorative frame, and when unfolded, it will serve as a full-fledged dining table. Although in each case the size of such a table will be different, we will take our sizes as a basis. This will allow you to visualize what exactly your drawing will look like.
For work you need:
- MDF board 180 mm thick - 5 pieces,
- 150×90 cm,
- 130 × 10 cm - 2 pieces,
- 90×20 cm,
- 70×20 cm,
- holdfast,
- wood glue,
- acrylic putty,
- electric drill,
- drill for wood 3 mm and for metal 8-10 mm,
- sandpaper,
- acrylic paint for wood
- roller,
- masking tape,
- screws 3.5×30 and 3.5×16 mm,
- loops,
- screwdriver,
- two furniture bolts.
The whole process of work will not take you much time if you strictly follow the step-by-step instructions below.
- Based on the set of material, the table will be made of MDF. Make drawings first.
- The frame is built first. To do this, four smaller elements are attached to the largest board from below, using a carpentry vise. Every 250 mm, holes are drilled in the frame with a Ø3 mm drill, up to 3 cm deep.
- After that, a hole is drilled with a metal drill Ø8-10 mm to a depth of 3 mm. In this way, it will be possible to deepen the heads of the twisted screws.
- Further, carpentry glue is applied to the lower surface of the four frame elements, and after that, each element is applied in its place. Each of them must be well pressed with a carpenter's vice.
- Mounting the frame on glue is not enough, so you should additionally fix it on screws.
- At the same time, disguise the screw heads so that they do not spoil the overall look. To do this, you will need acrylic putty.
- When the putty has dried, you can sand the surface of the decorative frame with sandpaper.
- The ends of the countertops should be glued with masking tape.
- Paint the surface of the frame with acrylic paint using a roller, and paint over the corners and edges with a brush.
- Then screw the hinges along the short edge of the table top. From the edge must be at least 150 mm. Mark holes on the wall and drill for the dowel. Thus, the hinges will be screwed to the wall.
- When the table is in an upright position, it will be held on top with latches. They should be fixed in such a way that they are not conspicuous, for example, at the edges of wall shelves.
Table from postforming table top in 5 stages
Such a table can be completed in the shortest possible time. To do this, you will need to first collect all the necessary material and tools. You will need:
- pencil,
- postforming tabletop,
- jigsaw,
- jigsaw file,
- Sander,
- edging,
- cutter,
- silicone sealant,
- rubber mallet,
- sharp knife,
- clamps,
- metal legs with holder
- hex key.
All work can be done in 5 successive stages.
Stage 1
Mark the front side of the table top with a pencil. The markup will match your drawing. Each rounding is performed with a radius of at least 60 mm. This will prevent the edge from discoloring at sharp bends.
Stage 2
Now you need to give the appropriate shape to the countertop. To do this, use a jigsaw. When cutting, it is recommended to leave a small backlog of 2-3 mm. Pay attention to the direction of the jigsaw blade. It must have a reverse direction of the teeth. This will avoid chips on the plastic coating. Although partially they can be hidden by piping. To accurately bring the dimensions and shape of the countertop, it is necessary to work on the ends with a belt-type grinder.
Stage 3
In the third step, it's time to mill the groove. Milling is always performed strictly in the center of the end face. And this is even regardless of whether the edging will exactly match the thickness of the table top or will be large. If you do not have a cutter with the exact dimensions of the edge groove, then you can go several times with a cutter that has a lower tooth height.
Stage 4
When the groove is ready, you can start stuffing the edging. To do this, the end face is pre-coated with silicone sealant. This will prevent water intrusion. Sealant is applied to the top edge of the edge. The edge itself is stuffed with a rubber mallet. The joint should be formed in the most inconspicuous place. When the stuffing is completed, it is important to make an exact docking of the piping. There is no way to do without a sharp knife. After that, you will need to remove the excess sealant around the entire perimeter of the countertop, which was formed when the edging was driven in.
When fixing countertops using clamps, it is important to use special gaskets. They are installed on the protruding edges of the edge and prevent their damage.
Stage 5
At the final stage, the legs are fixed. To do this, you should attach the molded holders to the underside of the tabletop. So that they are at the same distance, mark up with a pencil. From the edge of the leg should be at a distance of up to 10 cm. This holder is fixed with self-tapping screws 2.5 cm long with a countersunk head. Now it remains to make the final touch: fix the legs in the holder with a hex wrench. The dining table for the kitchen is ready!
As you can see, the table from the postforming tabletop is very simple and, most importantly, available for home-made manufacturing at home. To do this, you need to have basic carpentry tools. But there are also dangers to be aware of here. If handled carelessly, there is a risk of breaking the holder, which is made of fragile material. But if you carefully operate such a table, it will last for many years.
The choice is yours
We have considered with you several options for how to make a kitchen table. There are other technologies for its manufacture. In most cases, everything will depend only on your financial capabilities and ingenuity.
Video
This video shows an example of making a rectangular kitchen table with rounded corners. Balusters are skillfully used as legs:
A great way to complement the interior of a house or cottage is to make an original and stylish piece of furniture. We talk about how to make a table with your own hands in this article. Such a piece of furniture will become a real decoration of the living room, kitchen or office. It can be assembled at home from specially ordered boards and beams or from leftover materials. To do this, the master will need drawings, tools and a little imagination. But the experience of making homemade furniture may be missing. We offer you a very simple project to assemble a strong and stable table. Even a beginner can make furniture according to this scheme.
Everything starts with an idea
How to make a table? You need to start work with the selection of a finished furniture project for the living room or with drawing up your own scheme for the future product. You can not limit your imagination, but you should remember that the drawings in terms of complexity must correspond to your level of skill. In the absence of sufficient experience, it is better not to try to assemble a very complex structure yourself.
The project of a table for the house can be drawn with a pencil on paper. First you need to draw a design of the desired shape, and only then indicate its dimensions. Most often, a do-it-yourself table for the living room is made square or round, but for a kitchen or study (and any small room), a compact corner or adjustable table is suitable.
The dimensions of the table with your own hands can be absolutely any, when choosing the dimensions of the product, it is recommended to take into account, first of all, the dimensions of the room in which it will stand. Then, using the drawings, you can calculate the amount of material that will need to be bought. It is recommended to purchase materials with a small margin (just in case).
If you are a beginner who is assembling furniture at home for the first time, then it is better for you to give preference to soft wood (for example, pine).
Such materials are very malleable and do not split during assembly. If you are making furniture for the living room and aesthetics are important to you, then choose poplar. If the homemade table will be used outside the home, it is recommended to choose treated wood or mahogany.
A wrought-iron table with a wooden top will also differ in durability. A piece of wood, decorated with forged elements, will add charm to your yard.
To assemble a simple table at home, you will need:
- edged or tongue-and-groove boards, bars with a square section (for legs) and with a rectangular section (for the frame);
- white or yellow wood glue;
- screws (preferably 4x60 self-tapping screws);
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- clamp set;
- sandpaper or grinder.
Making the tabletop right
We begin the work with a description of the process of manufacturing countertops. There are several ways in which you can solve this problem. What determines the choice of one method or another? First of all, from the skill of the furniture maker and the intended appearance of the table for the living room or country house. So, here are the main ways to make a homemade countertop:
- Board production. This material is characterized by relatively low cost, excellent appearance and environmental friendliness. If you are a novice master, then you can make a table with your own hands from grooved boards (that is, blanks with ridges and grooves.
An experienced craftsman can assemble living room furniture from edged boards. To do this, he will need dowels or a soil carrier of small length. These will be used to connect the boards to each other.
- Made from a single piece of wood. In this case, you generally don’t have to puzzle over how to make a table with your own hands with a fairly strong and beautiful tabletop. The best option is to purchase hardwood plywood. However, such a product will be quite expensive.
- Assembling a product from leftover materials. This is a very cheap way to make furniture for the home, but quite difficult to perform. It will be necessary to select fragments of wood that will be in harmony with each other and will not create problems during installation and further use of the product. Putting the leftovers together is also not easy. In this case, you will have to use screws and a large amount of glue or create an underframe (stiffening ribs).
In the first case, the boards are layered on top of each other, connected with screws and glue. Since all the boards are different sizes, the finished product will need to cut off the protruding elements and carry out a thorough grinding. The result is an original and comfortable table.
The second method involves fastening the remnants of materials in any convenient way (using glue, screws), followed by strengthening the structure by installing an underframe or stiffeners. Such a table with your own hands will be distinguished by stability and durability.
If the table will be located in the courtyard near the house or in a stylized living room, then you can order a forged frame with legs for it. This will add a special color and originality to the product.
When the countertop is ready, it can be left overnight so that it dries properly. The manufacturing technology of this part of the table is approximately the same, regardless of the chosen shape of the product. The main differences between the projects in this case lie in the shape that must be given to the edges of the boards or a solid sheet of wood.
If you are making an original corner table, then the edges of the boards will have to be made at an angle. It is very important to correctly calculate the degree of each cut so that the edges of the product are even.
However, if as a result, bumps nevertheless formed, then the edges of the table will need to be properly sanded. You can also first fasten the boards, and then draw a triangle on the workpiece and cut out the finished product.
If you are making a round table in the living room or a product with rounded edges, then it is recommended to fasten the boards of the future product, and then draw lines for future cuts on the workpiece with a pencil or chalk.
The finished tabletop for such a project will look like this:
The frame as the basis for a reliable table
The next step is to make a table frame for the living room. The frame is a wooden square (for a square or rectangular table) or a polygon (for a round product), which is fastened to the table top and secures the legs.
Making a frame for a regular table is not difficult even for a beginner. To do this, turn the countertop upside down, measure the canvas, count a few centimeters deep and make marks. Then you can draw a rectangle or square from the marks.
After that, you need to cut four pieces of wood of such dimensions that correspond to the drawings on the table top. For the manufacture of the frame, it is recommended to take a rectangular beam. The frame of the boards may not be strong enough. Then the frame must be attached to the countertop with glue or self-tapping screws. The second option provides a higher reliability of the structure, however, in this case, the heads of the self-tapping screws will be visible on the surface of the countertop.
We make strong and reliable legs
At the next stage of the implementation of an unusual project, you need to make table legs. First, you can cut off one leg of the desired height (it is recommended to use a square bar for the production of legs), and then, using it as a sample, cut off the remaining 3. If you are making a corner table, then there will be not 4 legs, but 3. After the cutting process is completed, you should clamp all the legs together and cut them so that they are the same length.
At the next stage of work, the legs must be sanded with a grinder or sandpaper. But the top and bottom of the products should not be sanded, as you can spoil the correct cut angle. Then you need to attach the legs. To do this, the table can be turned upside down.
The first leg should be placed in one of the corners of the frame so that the top cut touches the countertop, and the two sides of the leg adjoin the frame. Then the contact lines of the parts must be liberally lubricated with glue and connected using fixing screws that are screwed through the table frame. It is advisable to make holes for the screws in advance so that the screws do not split the tree during the screwing process.
It is best to avoid using nails and a hammer when making a standard or corner table, as nails can split wood, and using a hammer requires special skill from the manufacturer. In addition, screws hold wood better than nails and can be removed from the product if necessary.
Be sure to make sure that the legs are attached to the table at the right angle. One advantage of screws is that they are easily adjustable. If necessary, their position can be easily changed. Then the same operations should be carried out with the rest of the legs. It is also possible to screw the legs through the tabletop, however in this case there is a risk of splitting the top of the legs. Yes, and the aesthetics of the table for the living room will suffer from this.
When the glue is completely dry, it is necessary to check the product for stability by strongly loosening it. However, if you made a corner table, then you can skip this step. It will be in contact with two walls of the living room or study, and this will give it extra strength. Then it remains only to sand the surface of the finished product and cover it with wood varnish or special paint. This is the end of the job. Now you can complement the interior of your apartment or garden with a wonderful product.
