How to paint a wooden floor with your own hands. How to lay tiles on a wooden floor: preparing the base in the normal state of the floor, if there are lags left, pour the screed on chipboard or plywood Preparing the base of the floor for laminate

Laminate is an inexpensive, practical and beautiful material with a number of advantages. It is also important that its installation is simple and convenient. But in order for all these positive qualities to be fully revealed, it is necessary to carefully prepare the foundation. Preparing your floor for laminate flooring is the most important step in laying laminate flooring. Consider how to conduct it correctly, because the service life of the laminate and its appearance will directly depend on this parameter.

The importance of preparing the base for laminate flooring

It's no secret that laminate is a whimsical material. And this is expressed not so much in the correct operation and maintenance, but in terms of exactingness to the base. Failure to eliminate all kinds of cracks, tubercles in a wooden field, cracks and irregularities in a concrete screed can lead to damage to the coating. This is explained by the fact that, in places where there are irregularities, stepping on the floor, we transfer the load to the interlocks of the laminate strips, which, under constant overload, swell in these areas and cracks appear on them.

Another worst enemy of the laminate is high humidity, which can get on it both from above and from under the screed. It is for this reason that cracks in the cement screed are dangerous and must be carefully repaired. Rotten boards pose the same threat.

Having understood what flaws exist in concrete and wooden bases and what a threat they pose to a new floor covering, we proceed to eliminate them.

Leveling the floor with DSP sheets

Leveling the surface of the base can be done using cement-bonded particle boards.

The use of cement particle boards - an additional option for leveling the floor under the laminate

For this:

  • lay out building boards at the level of the base. If necessary, sheets of plywood can be placed under the boards;
  • the structure is securely fixed;
  • we cut cement-bonded particle boards to size, place them on top of the structure;
  • using self-tapping screws, we fasten each of the elements, not forgetting to carefully check the flatness of the surface.

In the case of installation of heating systems, leveling and preparing the floor for laying the laminate will have its own specifics, since this is a special technology for performing work.

  1. To prevent the concrete floor from being so cold, plywood can be glued onto the screed, fixing it with dowel-nails.
  2. It is necessary to leave a gap between the plywood sheets (about 4-6 mm), so that when the humidity in the room rises, the sheets have room to expand.
  3. If pipes or wires pass through the screed, they should be marked with chalk on the floor, and then on plywood sheets so that they are not drilled during installation.
  4. When leveling the floor with a bulk mixture, it is necessary to prime the cracks in the old screed, the holes around the pipes and cover them with tile adhesive. This will prevent leakage of the liquid self-leveling floor to the neighbors.

Summary

Preparing the floor for laying laminate requires careful execution of all work, careful attention to the choice of screed, floor substrate. If laying a laminate is within the power of a person who does not have special skills, then preparing the floor for it is a time-consuming task that requires skill and skill. If you want to do it yourself, study the materials, consult with professionals, the advice of knowledgeable people will help in many ways, because competent preparation of the base will ensure the wear resistance and durability of the laminate flooring for many years.

It is inexpensive, practical and beautiful material. It has many benefits. Also important are the facts that laying laminate flooring is simple and convenient.

In order for such quality indicators to be fully disclosed, it is worth carrying out better preparatory work. Most importantly, do not forget about the preparatory work before laying the laminate. This is one of the most important works, which affects the quality of work and the final result. When the preparatory steps are done correctly, the life of the coating will depend only on the manufacturers chosen.

Foundation preparation and the importance of such work

Many people know that laminate is considered a rather whimsical material. And this expression is correct. It is important to pay attention to the plane of the base. If the gaps, bumps or cracks (in the wooden floor) are not fixed, then there will be problems.
This applies to cracks and uneven concrete screed. This can be explained by the fact that when pressing on the material under which the tubercle is located, this place gradually yields to deformation. The load is transferred to places that, with constant overloads, are capable of swelling, after a certain time, defects appear in such places.

One of worst enemies laminate flooring is indoor humidity.
Water can enter from any direction. For this reason, it is worthwhile to properly ventilate the room, as well as waterproofing. It is important to pay attention to cement screed condition so that there are no defects and deep cracks.

In a wooden floor, everything looks a little different, but in any case, it is worthwhile to correctly assess the situation and remove unpleasant places that pose a threat to the future coating.

Dismantling of the old coating

The first stage of work in preparing the base is the dismantling of old coatings. Many floors do not need such procedures, and no matter what will be laid - carpet, or. The main requirement for surfaces is that the plane difference is small. More precisely, it can be said that per 1 sq. m should be a difference of about 2-3 mm.

When dismantling works take place, they are recommended to be done clearly and with caution. In no case should the old concrete screed be damaged.

Wooden floors, in addition, must be smooth and durable. Also, they should not make any squeaks. When low-quality boards are present in the old flooring, they must be replaced.
In any case, the base must be further leveled.

Laying laminate flooring on a concrete floor: Leveling a concrete floor

If a more thorough inspection has been carried out and it was clear that the condition of the flooring is in good condition, then the surface should be primed. After that, proceed to the installation work.

When there are irregularities on the concrete screed, they are puttied. If the irregularities are large, then the surface of the old screed should be updated.

The sequence of actions during the preparatory work when laying the laminate on the concrete floor:

  • General cleaning of the surface is done, at this time it is recommended to use a broom or a vacuum cleaner.
  • Using tile adhesive, it is worth covering up cracks or chips present in the screed.
  • The base of the floor, which has already been removed, is treated with a special primer. It should be with deep penetration.
  • The mixture is prepared in accordance with the recommendations that are indicated in the instructions. If you determine the state of the solution by eye, visually, it should be creamy.
  • If everything is done correctly, then a self-leveling screed mixture is poured. At this time, the solution should be more evenly distributed over the entire surface plane.
  • After working on applying the screed, you should know that air remains in it. It is recommended to drive it out by rolling out. For this, a roller is used.
  • The leveler dries out during the day, but laying work is not recommended to be done immediately. You have to wait a while, about three or four days.

The final stage of the preparatory work, laying the laminate on the concrete floor, is the laying of high-quality substrates. They provide satisfactory thermal and noise performance, protecting the laminate from moisture damage.

Cork flooring is considered the most environmentally friendly underlay material, but foamed polyethylene films are more commonly used today.

Laying laminate on a wooden floor: preparing a wooden base

If the floor is made of wood, then it should be carefully considered so as not to miss anything. During the inspection, it is worthwhile to find out the strength indicators. If it is cracked or somehow damaged, then it is recommended to change the damaged parts.

It is important to check the surface for slopes. The difference should not exceed 1 m -3 mm. If they are larger, then you will have to level them.

Features of the leveling process when laying laminate on a wooden floor:

  • boards that are damaged should be replaced immediately;
  • if unsuitable nails or protruding elements are found, then it is recommended to remove them or drive them inward;
  • parts such as floorboards must be drawn to;
  • during the alignment of the plane, laying and fixing can be done, its thickness may vary, depending on preferences.

Wooden parts should be treated with special impregnations that will not allow the material to rot or deteriorate. It will be like a kind of shell. For this purpose, use a simple or automotive oil, which is used.

After carrying out the necessary work, the entire surface must be inspected and sanded.

How to level the floor using DSP

Sometimes for high-quality leveling of the surface today special plates are used, which are made on the basis of cement and shavings.

To carry out such work, it is necessary to do all the work correctly.

  • boards are laid out using a building level, if necessary, substrates are laid out under them - these are kind of sheets made of;
  • the structure must be securely fastened;
  • the next stage of work is the cutting of cement-bonded particle boards according to a predetermined size;
  • plates are distributed on top of the structure;
  • with the application, it is worth fixing all the elements, remembering that the flatness at the very end should be clearly checked.

If a heating system is being installed, then the preparatory work will be a little specific.

  1. In order for the floor, which is made of, not to be so cold, they are glued on the base of the screed. It must be strengthened with special ones.
  2. A certain gap is left between the plywood sheets. It has dimensions of 3-5 mm. This gap will be needed so that when the humidity indicators increase, the sheets do not rest anywhere and do not rise.
  3. When the screed is made in such a way that pipes or other communications pass through it, then the places of their passage are marked with chalk. After that, all drawings are recommended to be applied to plywood sheets.
  4. When leveling the floor using a bulk mixture, all cracks are primed, which are in the old screed. It is important to pay attention to the places that are near the pipes. In case of cracks, they are covered with tile adhesive. This will prevent, for example, when installing self-leveling floors, the mixture will pass into the crack

Preparing the floors for the future laying of the floor from the laminate requires more careful fulfillment of many technological requirements. In any case, it is worth choosing the right materials for such work so that the result is more comforting.

Laminate is an excellent floor covering in the homes of those owners who are not afraid to pre-repair this very floor, because under such a beautiful and durable coating it is worth creating an equally high-quality foundation. The article will discuss how to prepare the floor for a laminate, so that in the future you will not know the problems with its operation.

Substrate requirements for laying laminate flooring

The main requirement for the surface on which the laminate is laid is its perfect evenness. The amplitude of the maximum and minimum base heights cannot be more than 2 millimeters for every 2 meters of subfloor, and the linear slope should not be more than 4 millimeters for the same distance.

If this condition is not observed, the coating will quickly deform due to the fact that deflections will form in places where gaps have formed between the base and the flooring. As a result, the locks between the boards are destroyed, creaks and other noises are created, and sometimes even individual elements break. Naturally, a coating with such defects will not look good in the photo and during visual inspection.

In addition to the fact that the base under the laminate must be even, various protective materials must also be laid on it. First of all, we are talking about vapor barrier and waterproofing protection, which will prevent the wood material from being destroyed by moisture.


Another requirement is the perfect cleanliness of the subfloor before laying the rest of the materials and the laminate itself. Such a requirement arose because any small blockages arising from dust, sand and various crumbs will cause noise (crunches, squeaks) and gradual wiping of the substrate.

Thus, the process of preparing the base is fundamental before laying the laminate. There is an opinion that the laminate can be laid on any base that meets two main parameters - it is hard and smooth.

This is only partly true, since such a question should not be decided solely on a visual assessment of the two above criteria. It is worth checking the base in any case, since not only the laminate, but also any other coating deforms much faster than it should, and then it will be too late to be surprised by this fact.

Now that it is clear what the risks are when using a low-quality base, we can consider ways to test different bases. The main types of bases are wooden and concrete. Consider the features of such a process as preparing a floor for a laminate with your own hands and understand what are the nuances of this procedure for different types of bases.

Concrete subfloor

When it comes to laying laminate on a concrete base, the preparation of the subfloor is carried out in the following order:

  • dismantling of existing layers;
  • making measurements;
  • preparation of the subfloor for processing;
  • leveling the floor by creating a screed or mounting a frame from a log.

Dismantling

Naturally, the laying of the main coating during repairs can be carried out only after the old one has been dismantled: removal of linoleum, parquet flooring, etc. The old concrete screed can not be hollowed out, but simply repaired if its condition allows this.

Taking measurements

Any horizontal deviations of the base surface can be detected using a long, perfectly even rail (rule) or ruler. We systematically apply the device to the floor in different directions in order to find the gaps between the tool and the base. If there are irregularities that do not correspond to the optimal values ​​​​presented above, then the floor should be leveled.

Foundation preparation

There are a number of ways in which a concrete base can be leveled. The applicability of each of them depends on the characteristics of the available coverage and the individual wishes of the owner.


The main task of the worker is to remove large protrusions and cracks. The bumps are knocked down with improvised tools and polished, and the various cavities are cleaned, then a primer for the laminate is applied to them, and the solution is poured.

When the base is level, it should be carefully removed, even with a damp cloth (read also: ""). As soon as the base is clean, a waterproofing layer of material is applied to it with a significant spacing on the walls to form a kind of “trough” that will retain moisture, preventing it from penetrating into the floor structure.

Self-leveling floors

Once the preparation has been completed, you can proceed to the alignment procedure. If the amplitude of irregularities described above does not exceed 3 centimeters, then work can be done using a leveling solution. Its use does not require certain building skills and the procedure itself will not take much time.


Work is carried out as follows:

  1. Procurement of mortar and soil mixture.
  2. A primer for the floor under the laminate is applied to the prepared surface in order to increase the adhesion between the concrete base and the mortar to be poured.
  3. The joints between the walls and the floor along the entire perimeter of the room are glued with a damper tape to ensure their reliable protection against the penetration of moisture, which is present in the solution and can leak before it dries.
  4. The solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package. The only remark is that it is not worth doing the kneading by hand, because. a construction mixer or a drill with a special nozzle will cope with this task much faster. It is important to perform all actions very clearly, since one bucket is hardly enough to cover the entire area of ​​\u200b\u200ba spacious room. Mixing between two fillings must be done very quickly so that the first layer does not begin to harden.
  5. The solution is applied from the far corner of the room, which is located diagonally from the front door. Thus, the fastest and most effective application is ensured. Leveling the layer is done with a spatula. Swollen air bubbles must be pierced with a roller with needles. Next, the next layer is poured, and the joint between the two filled areas is made uniform with a roller. Spillage of liquid around the room occurs independently due to its increased fluidity.
  6. Laminate is laid on the self-leveling floor after the period indicated on the package, as the time required for full solidification and gaining basic characteristics.


However, height differences are not always less than 3 centimeters. If this value is exceeded, you will have to use a cement-sand mortar, a dry screed, or build up with a log.

Cement-sand screed

Such a screed is created quite simply, but, as in any business, efforts and efforts must be made so that the result meets all expectations and the floors last as long as possible.


The floor is prepared for laying the laminate using a cement-sand mortar as follows:

  1. The rough floor is cleaned, covered with waterproofing material and glued around the perimeter with a damper tape.
  2. Next, you need to determine the height of the future screed, which is also called the zero level. To do this, when measuring the base, its highest point is determined and 3 centimeters are added to it (read also: ""). The walls are marked according to the selected height.
  3. On the zero level drawn along the walls, beacons are installed in the form of metal profiles fixed on the same solution that is used for pouring. It is important to achieve a perfect match of the heights of the lighthouses. The interval between adjacent profiles must be less than the length of the rule used in the work.
  4. The solution is kneaded according to the technology described on the package (usually 1 part of cement to 3 parts of sand).
  5. The resulting composition is laid in strips between the beacons, which are removed after laying one strip. In this case, it is best to prepare the solution in an amount that is enough to create 1-2 bands. It is necessary to use one portion in about 40-50 minutes, because. then it will start to freeze. The applied layer is leveled using the rule.
  6. The screed is dried to an ideal state within a month, but after 3 days it will be possible to safely walk on it for processing, and during the first week it should be covered with polyethylene and wetting should be done regularly so that cracks do not form on the surface.

Dry screed

The question remains how to prepare the floor for laying laminate if its unevenness exceeds 10 centimeters. It will be most effective to create a dry prefabricated screed, which allows you to reduce the load on the floor, even with a thickness of more than 10 centimeters.


Such a structure is created as follows:

  1. The floor is prepared by analogy with the previous methods.
  2. Beacons are also set, and the zero level is found. With one difference: beacons can be fixed on any substrate.
  3. Filler is poured between the beacons: expanded clay, perlite, foam plastic, etc. is laid.
  4. This layer is compacted to the level of the lighthouses and covered on top with sheet rough material of the GVL type. Lighthouses are removed from under such a flooring, and the sheets are overlapped to obtain a uniform surface for further work on laying the laminate.

Floor extension with lags

This method is also called "dry", since the required level of the base is achieved by installing wooden beams (lag), which have a significantly lower mass than a cement-sand or self-leveling screed. It is important to take into account the loss in height of the room that will occur if the preparation of the base for the laminate is done in this way.


The procedure is as follows:

  1. It all starts again with the preparation of the subfloor.
  2. Next, measurements are taken to find the zero level. This mark is determined by adding to the maximum elevation of the subfloor the value of the height of the timber used, as well as the thickness of the draft material laid on top of the log.
  3. Next, the lag is installed. There are self-adjusting systems on the market, but you can assemble the frame from pre-purchased bars measuring 4x10 centimeters. This design is a kind of crate with a predetermined height (zero level), on which the laminate will be laid.
  4. On the draft floor, the logs are fixed with anchors.
  5. Draft material is laid directly on top of the log: sheets of plywood or drywall, fixed firmly with self-tapping screws. It is very important to sink the screws below the level of this flooring so as not to damage the laminate when laying on top.

Wooden floor


First you need to assess the quality of the existing foundation. If necessary, it is partially repaired: any defective boards are replaced, protruding nails are driven in, self-tapping screws are screwed in. In the end, it all comes down to working with the rule, by which the various irregularities of such a base are determined. There are several basic ways to prepare a wooden floor for a laminate with surface leveling. Let's consider them in more detail.

Cycling

This method is popular in cases where the coating needs to be leveled for its subsequent varnishing. The results of the work performed will be a high-quality surface for the subsequent laying of the laminate. It is very important that all the fasteners of the wooden base are recessed into it by at least half a centimeter, otherwise the scraper knives will be damaged during operation.

Self-levelling compounds

By analogy with a concrete base, a layer of self-leveling mixture can also be poured onto wooden floors, but in this case its thickness will not exceed 2 centimeters. You can pour several layers according to the scheme: 1 - drying - 1 - drying - .... Naturally, their number will be limited by the maximum allowable weight that the overlap can withstand.


The filling of such a mixture is carried out as follows:

  1. Again, we start with the preparation of the base: we remove any remnants of paintwork materials, eliminate cracks and holes. You can use a thick consistency self-leveling compound.
  2. The surface is primed with a composition with water-repellent properties.
  3. The zero level is determined.
  4. All gaps between the floor and walls are sealed with polystyrene foam.
  5. A waterproofing material is laid with a 10-15 cm spade on the walls.
  6. The composition for filling is mixed.
  7. The mixture is poured on the floor, leveled with a spatula and air bubbles are removed with a roller with needles.
  8. The next layer can only be applied after the first has completely dried.

The ways of preparing wooden floors for the subsequent laying of laminate do not end there. For example, you can use a mixture of sawdust and PVA glue for puttying. It can be made independently or bought at a hardware store, which is advisable given the low cost of the main components.

Actions after leveling the base

Once the floor is leveled, you can start laying the substrate under the laminate. This layer is necessary to increase heat and sound insulation. Also, the material acts as a shock absorber, hiding the minimal irregularities left after the creation of the screed. You can use: polyethylene foam (additional waterproofing), bitumen-cork substrate, simple cork, as an environmentally friendly material, etc.

Outcome

If you perform all the above actions correctly in compliance with the technology, then the laid laminate will look aesthetically pleasing in the photo and during visual inspection. Each of the above methods of preparing the base has certain advantages and disadvantages, but they are united by ease of implementation.


With minimal skills, “straight” hands and sufficient desire, laminate flooring can be laid without the help of specialists. If they had to turn to those, then they will take responsibility not only for the work, but also for the selection of all the necessary components, of course, taking into account the wishes of the customer.

Laying laminate floors is not an easy task, but even an amateur can save himself from unnecessary worries and guarantee a long service life. All you need to take care of is the proper preparation of the floor for the laminate.

Checking the evenness of the floor under the laminate

This is the first and probably the most important step. For the castle flooring, the base must be even. According to most experts, bumps and depressions should not be more than 2-3 mm per 1 m².

! In order to check the indicators, you can use a meter ruler and attach it to the surface so that it lies between the light source and you, on the edge. Under the ruler you will see a strip of light. If in some places it is more than 3 mm, proceed with leveling work.

We strongly recommend that you check several places at once, including the area under the batteries and the middle of the room. Minor irregularities can be compensated with . The higher the differences, the higher the quality of such an intermediate layer should be.

Local irregularities? Then it will not be difficult to remove them. We offer you several basic options for preparing the floor for laying laminate. Consider each alternative solution and choose the one that works for you.

Preparing a concrete floor for laminate


The concrete surface is quite cold and does not differ in comfort, therefore, lamellas are often mounted on it as a topcoat. This is an inexpensive but good solution.

! When buying boards, pay attention to their thickness. A thickness of 7-8 mm is suitable here, and the installation process should be carried out in a floating way.

How to get rid of irregularities? You can resort to one of the two most popular options:

  • Use of insulating foam: it is laid in a double layer to even out small irregularities. We advise you to use 5mm thick polystyrene foam. It is mounted directly on the base, increasing the thermal insulation of the flooring. Attention : the foam is laid with the corrugated side down, and the gaps that always form between the sheets are glued with special adhesive tape;

! If you do not plan to use foam at all, then keep in mind that you will have to properly level the rough base.


  • the use of self-leveling compounds: in most cases, the application of such mixtures is the basis of the process of preparing a concrete floor for a laminate. Such a composition should not be considered an ideal option: in order for it to cope with the task, it is necessary to repair all pits, bumps, and cracks before applying it. This, in turn, will reduce the consumption of expensive self-leveling mass by several times.

Whatever method you use, take care of priming the floor using two coats of primer. After the repair work is completed, the base must dry. In the case of self-levelling compounds, the process will take you about 7-8 days.

After this stage, you can safely. Do not forget about the use of a substrate and the organization of expansion joints.

Preparing a wooden floor for laminate


There are two main requirements for wooden boards:

  1. The differences are not more than 2 mm per 2 m long;
  2. a uniform slope of not more than 4 mm per 2 m of the width / length of the room.

! Small irregularities can be looped, and in the case of large differences, laying chipboard or OSB will be appropriate: attach it with self-tapping screws, while drowning the screw head by a few millimeters.

Such an intermediate layer protects against various extraneous noise, and also guarantees cushioning and smoothing of various irregularities.

Today the market is pleased to offer a variety of options for substrates from various materials:

  • Cork;
  • polyethylene foam;
  • bitumen plug;
  • rubber;
  • composite materials.

! Substrate NOT USED in the event that you intend to use laminate boards with a lining that already performs a soundproofing function.

The choice, as always, is yours. But, we advise you to buy if funds allow you. This is the most reliable option: rigid, heat-resistant, versatile, easy to install and optimal for this type of finish. Using cork allows you to forgo plywood sheets, because this intermediate layer will hide all the bumps (within reason, of course).

The price of such a material is high, but since this layer allows you to refuse to buy a number of other compositions, the cost can be considered acceptable. The difference in the money spent is small, but the time and quality of service differ. Cork is an environmentally friendly flooring with a number of advantages that allow you to get rid of many problems in the preparation process.

A video about preparing the floor for laminate flooring will help you dot the i’s and get to work on your own, without too much help and fuss. Enjoy your viewing and good luck in all your repair endeavors.

Video - preparing the floor for laminate.


Finally, the agony of choosing a floor covering is left behind - you have purchased a (sincerely hope that high-quality) laminate. But, before you start laying, pay attention to the quality of the rough surface - after all, the service life and appearance of the coating will directly depend on this parameter. Laminate is a whimsical material and it's not a secret. Moreover, his "whimsicalness", contrary to popular belief, is not so much in the quality of exploitation and capriciousness in terms of care, but in exactingness to the foundation. All kinds of bumps, cracks in the wooden field, cracks in the screed, if they are not eliminated in a timely manner, will soon lead to damage to the coating and, as a result, to new time and material costs. That is why the preparation of the floor for the laminate should become an integral, carefully carried out stage in the arrangement of the floor structure.

Why is a flat surface important?

Differences in the rough surface are serious "provocateurs" of the breakdown of laminate locks - the most sore point of this floor product. Due to the bumps and pits present under the coating, the forces from your movements will be transferred to the junctions of the plates, thereby significantly “overloading” them. The result is the occurrence of cracks and swelling in problem areas. Rotten boards and cracked screeds "threaten" the laminate with constant contact with moisture coming from below. What this is fraught with, it is not difficult to guess.

The strength of a floor made on the basis of a self-leveling mixture significantly exceeds the strength of even a concrete screed. How to choose the composition of the mixture and carry out the work is described in the material:.

Leveling a concrete floor under a laminate

Are you dealing with a "humped" concrete base? You can't do without pouring a self-leveling mixture. The sequence of actions in this case should be as follows:

  • general surface cleaning: concrete should ideally be vacuumed;
  • covering cracks in the screed (best with tile glue), knocking down bumps and sagging;
  • floor treatment with a deep penetrating primer;
  • prepare the mixture according to the manufacturer's instructions. If you evaluate the density of the solution by eye, then its consistency should resemble sour cream. The mixture should be brought to absolute homogeneity - no lumps should remain;
  • pouring self-leveling screed. Filling should begin from the highest point of the floor - the mass will “spread” over the surface by gravity.
  • uniform distribution of the solution with a spatula;
  • rolling out the mixture with a roller - in this way, the air that has fallen under the mixture is expelled, which can provoke many small holes on the new surface;
  • the leveling mass dries up in about a day - but it should be postponed for a few more days.

Working with a wooden base

If everything is more or less clear with a concrete floor, then the nature of the preparation of a wooden floor raises many questions. One of them - where to start?

We answer - of course, from the revision of the coverage. The wooden floor should be carefully inspected to ensure its strength, to identify rotten or cracked elements. Then it is necessary to evaluate whether it is possible to isolate the problem areas (if any) without completely dismantling the base. At the same stage, the evenness of the surface is checked. Height differences of two or three millimeters are quite acceptable.

Significant differences will have to be leveled. How?

  • replace damaged boards or their sections;
  • drive flush / remove protruding nails;
  • carefully pull all the floorboards to the joists;
  • lay and fix plywood (thickness about ten millimeters).

Preparing wooden floors for laminate flooring involves a thorough protective treatment of the wood. For these purposes, an ordinary (but high-quality) drying oil is suitable. Also, the floor can be sanded, and all the cracks can be covered with a special tool.

We will tell you in detail about leveling a wooden floor for a laminate in the article:. Comparison of three methods: dry floor screed; plywood, fiberboard, chipboard and OSB; adjustable legs.

This video demonstrates another way to level wooden floors (having minor differences) - surface treatment with acrylic sealant.

The use of cement particle boards

You can also level the floor under the laminate with the help of DSP sheets. To do this, you need to lay out the level of the base - building boards. Under the boards, if necessary, enclose sheets of plywood; the structure is well fixed. Cement particle boards are cut to size and placed on top of it. Then carefully check the flatness of the surface and fasten each of the elements with self-tapping screws.

Read about the installation of electric, water and film underfloor heating with your own hands in the article:. An overview of the nuances of installing various types of heating.

How about underfloor heating?

This is a popular addition in recent times when arranging laminate floors. Installation requires compliance with a special technology for performing work and accurate weighted calculations - leveling and preparing the base in this case will be more specific. See them in our section about underfloor heating.

In the process of work, try to avoid typical mistakes of inexperienced homeowners. For example, attempts to even out impressive differences with the help of a substrate laid in two layers. Competent preparation of the base for a laminated floor is a guarantee that the coating will delight you with its aesthetics and durability for many years.

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