Workbench: design rules, manufacturing for all kinds of carpentry and locksmith work. Do-it-yourself carpenter's table How to glue a table top for a workbench table

Each master for working with wood or for finishing manipulations needs a comfortable workplace. In order to carry out all the work as efficiently as possible, you can quickly build a high-quality and inexpensive workbench with your own hands to suit your needs.

The device and purpose of the carpentry workbench

The workbench is a stable, massive work table designed for processing various products using hand or power tools. The larger the dimensions of such a table, the heavier and larger the parts can be processed on it.

Typical workbench layout:

Having decided to make a workbench with your own hands, it is necessary to study all possible table designs, their drawings, and only then make a choice.

Simple stationary workbench it is not difficult to make, but it will be “tied” to a specific place. It can be used to process massive wooden blanks and heavy boards.

Mobile desktop has small dimensions (approximately 80x70 cm), weight is about 30 kg and one vice. It is intended for work with medium-sized products and for minor repairs.

Composite workbench connected with bolts, so it can be easily disassembled. However, it is quite difficult to do it yourself.

We draw up a workbench project

The working carpentry table should be made in such a size that it is convenient to work on it.

Height the table directly depends on the growth of the owner, who should be comfortable while standing to perform any operations. For an average height person, a workbench can be from 70-90 cm high.

Length and width workbench depends on the area of the room in which it will be installed. A table with a width of 80-100 cm and a length of at least two meters is very convenient.

Required fixtures and table configuration should depend on which hand the master will work with and what operations he will perform on the workbench.

Set workbench best by the window, however additional lighting will be needed anyway. In addition, sockets must be provided near the workplace.

design collapsible table can be reduced due to the small thickness of the material. In such a workbench, you can make folding legs or an unscrewing tabletop.

Workbench with your own hands. Blueprints. Video instruction

A stationary workbench can be installed not only indoors, but also in the yard of your own house or cottage.

Base making

First of all, you should make a frame of their bars with your own hands and fasten it in such a way that the base is as rigid as possible.

Most often, first, according to the drawing , grooves are made, and only then the whole structure is assembled. In this case, all joints are glued and fixed with clamps. If the workbench is collapsible, then all parts of the frame can be connected using metal corners.

To fixed structure was even more reliable, several parts of the support frame can be fixed to the wall. You can increase the stability of the carpentry workbench with wedge-shaped inserts or diagonal jumpers. They are fastened with screws between top frame and legs and are made of the same material as the table base.

We make a countertop with various fixtures

Workbench cover size should be a few centimeters larger than the base of the structure, then it will be convenient to work behind it.

Boards with the help of metal corners are attached to three bars, which are placed with reverse side countertops. Grooves must first be made for these bars.
Then the boards are carefully adjusted to each other, sanded and covered with a protective solution. It is recommended to use drying oil or oil.

At the end of the tabletop, a recess is made under vise. In this case, the vertical plate should form one plane with it. In addition, you will need a plywood pad, which will need to be placed on the bottom of the workbench.

The vise is applied to their location, and the place for the holes is marked. A vise is inserted into the finished recess and fastened with bolts and nuts to the table top so that their lips are flush with the surface of the table top.

Also, on a carpentry workbench, it is necessary to build stops that can be purchased or made by hand. It is not recommended to use round dowels or bolts as stops, since dowels do not fix parts well, and the bolt head can damage the workpiece.

Easy enough to do pegs or rectangular stops. With their help, it will be possible to securely fix parts of any size. Such stops are made of solid wood. You can make them just rectangular, expand upwards or cut them out with a jigsaw and make them with a “spring”.

Under the pegs in the countertop, you can make holes or build it up with bars of the desired thickness, screw them to the edge of the table and close the bar on the other side. In order to fix any part, the nests should be located at a distance of half from the vice stroke from each other.

The stationary workbench is ready, now you can work on it. However, if there is not enough space for the installation of the desktop, then a collapsible carpentry workbench can be made.

Do-it-yourself collapsible workbench - arrangement

The procedure for making such a table is similar to that described above. Its main difference is that to connect the parts it is required use of bolted connections.

The advantage of such a workbench is not only that during its operation it is easy to replace any parts. So, for example, every table loosens over time, and it is much easier to simply tighten the mounting bolts on it than to strengthen it with new screws and nails.

Of course, building a workbench with your own hands is not an easy task at all. But, having worked hard, you can end up with an excellent and comfortable workplace with various devices for which work will bring joy.

1. Glue the front beam from several layers BUT and trim to final size (Fig. 1 and 1a). Then cut grooves in it with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm (Fig. 1a, photo A and AT).

Brief advice! Do not glue the parts of the milling template, but fasten them only with screws. The template will again be needed to slot into the rear vise block which is wider than the cover front bar.

From a couple of pieces of thick board and 12 mm thick material, assemble a simple template for milling at an angle of 2 ° grooves, which will become holes for the bench stops.

When cutting slots in the front bar with a 12mm helical cutter and a 19mm guide sleeve, remove the material little by little, gradually increasing the depth.

2. Cut out the overlay AT and glue it to the front beam, aligning the right ends of the parts. Carefully remove the squeezed out excess glue.

3. Using the template usually supplied with the front vise, mark and drill the holes for the rods. (photo C, fig. 1).

Position the mounting template so that the vise holes do not intersect with the bench rest holes in the A/B front bar. Mark the centers of the holes with an awl.

Note. This project uses a front and back viseLee Valley. They differ good quality workmanship, smooth operation and come with detailed installation instructions.

4. Now make the cover shield FROM, lower pads for the front D and rear E vice, spacer F and rear bar G. Glue the trims, back rail, spacer and front rail to the lid (Fig. 1).

5. Make the left and right tips H, I (Fig. 2). Form tongues 36 mm wide and 57 mm deep along one side of the tips and drill 12 mm holes.

Brief advice! To quickly make clean and tidy sheet piles, remove most of the material with a slotted disc and then smooth the sides and bottom with a router table.

6. Mill on the ends of the cover A-G rebate on both sides 57 mm wide and 36 mm deep (a photoD), to form combs that are inserted into the tongues of the tips H, I.

Use the tip as a guide to cut the folds on the lid. Be careful not to hit the front trim B with the cutter.

7. Place the left tip on the comb H by pushing it to the front pad AT. Right tip I align with the front edge of the shield FROM. Mark the centers of the 12mm holes (photo E). Remove the tips and use the awl to mark other centers, moving them 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the combs (a photoF). Draw parallel lines, 6 mm apart on both sides of each mark left by the awl, so that the distance between the lines is 12 mm.

Use the point of a 12 mm drill to transfer the centers of the holes in the tips H, I to the ridges of the cover.

Move the centers of the holes 1.5 mm closer to the shoulders of the comb so that when driving in the dowels, the tip with the cover is pulled tighter.

With a thin round rasp, process all holes except the first. Do not go beyond the parallel lines so that the parts fit snugly.

8. Drill 12 mm holes according to the marking. Then, starting at the second hole (counting from the front edge of the lid), increase it 2mm on both sides without going beyond the parallel lines to make an oval 16mm long. Do the same with other holes, increasing the length of each next by 1.5 mm in both directions (a photoG, rice. 2). This will allow the lid to change its width with seasonal fluctuations in humidity. In the right tip I cut 57x165mm flush with the bottom of the spacer F and the end of the bottom lining E.

9. Put on the tips H, I on the combs and secure with 12mm hardwood dowels, driving them into the holes without using glue. Saw off the protruding ends of the dowels flush with the upper and lower edges of the tips.

Brief advice! To facilitate the installation of tips, take dowels of increased length and make narrowing at their ends.

Add a vise

1. From scraps, assemble a frame that will limit the area of movement of the router when selecting a recess in the bottom plate D for front vice (photo H). Mark the recess so that it is located 70 mm from the front edge of the cover, and its middle coincides with the center big hole for the vice screw.

Use a 12mm ascending cutter to select a 57x305x406mm recess for the vise mechanism. Rearrange as necessary the trim supporting the router.

Peel off the back plate to slide the vise mechanism into place. Then install it again, and the operation can be considered completed.

2. Cut out the block J for the movable jaw of the front vice. Drill holes in the block, marking them with the template used earlier, positioning it so that the left end of the block is aligned with the left edge of the cover.

3. Mill along the ends of the movable jaw J shouldered fillets and attach the front vise to the cover following the directions in the instructions (photo I). Install the stock handlebar in place.

4. Cut out the block according to the indicated dimensions To for rear clamps. Remake the milling fixture that was used before and form grooves in the block with a width of 19 and a depth of 41 mm at an angle (Fig. 3 and 3a).

5. Cut out the overlay L for rear clamps. Drill in the block To 10mm through holes with 25mm counterbores (Fig. 3 and Per). Pressing the overlay against the block with clamps, mark the centers of the holes on it with a 10 mm drill through the holes in the block. Then drill holes with a diameter of 16 mm at the marked points. Note. Our method is slightly different from the one described in the instructions and requires the use of washers and plugs that are not included in the vise package. In doing so, we hid the bolt heads under the plugs rather than leaving them in plain sight.

6. Glue the overlay L to the block K (photoJ) and carefully remove any extruded adhesive from the bench stop holes.

Align the holes of the block K exactly with the holes of the pad L. In order not to spend a lot of time removing excess glue, apply it evenly in a thin layer.

7. Attach assembled block K/L together with the rear vice mechanism in place, following the instructions. Close the bolt heads with plugs and install the standard handle-lever.

Make bench stops

1. Saw according to the dimensions indicated in the "List of Materials" 17 stops M and 17 springs N. For the stops, we chose cherry wood, as it retains the required strength for a long time, does not leave dents on the parts, and its color contrasts well with the white oak wood from which the workbench cover is made. For springs, dense and elastic wood, such as maple, is suitable.

2. To give the stops the desired shape, make copies of the template, increasing them by 2 times. Then glue the springs to the stops. Check how the assembled stops fit into the holes and adjust if necessary. They should be removed and recessed without much effort and at the same time remain at the desired height. To learn more about them, read the article "Bench stops" published in this issue of the magazine.

Let's go to the base

Note. Before you start making, measure and record the dimensions of the recess on the underside of the lid. The top of the cabinet base should fit snugly into this recess. If it fails to fit, you will need to resize it to fit the recess or widen the edges of the recess for final assembly.

1. According to the dimensions indicated in the “List of Materials”, cut out the shelves O, partitions R and edge trims Q, R. Glue lining to shelves and partitions (Fig. 4). Then glue the shelves O/Q to partitions P/R and secure with additional screws.

2. Sawing plinth boards S and kings T, glue them to the O-R divider shelf assembly.

3. From 19mm cherry veneered plywood, cut out the side and back walls U, V. First glue the side walls in place, securing with additional screws, then add the back wall, using only glue to fix it.

4. Note. Check the dimensions of the assembled body before sawing out the crossbeams, uprights and overlays and make sure that the lengths listed in the Materials List are appropriate for your project. We advise you to cut out the detailsW— GG with a slight allowance in length, and then fit them in place.

Cut out the top and bottom rails W, X, as well as racks Y (Fig. 5). Glue the top and bottom rails to the front of the base, then add the uprights.

5. Now cut out the back rails Z, AA, racks BB, mullions SS and side rails DD, EE. Glue the bottom back bar AA and mullions to the back wall V (photo K). Then glue the rear top rail and posts in place, then the side bottom rails with mullions to the side walls, and finally the top side rails and posts.

Use a couple of thick, even-edged blocks to press the SS center pieces more firmly against the back wall.

6. Mill 10 mm chamfers at the corners of the body, ending at the joints of the crossbeams with the uprights (Fig. 6).

Before connecting the plinth boards, you need to saw the bevels on the slats glued on top. After that, you can start milling fillets.

7. From the 19mm cherry boards, cut the side, front and back plinth boards FF, GG specified length with an allowance of about 3 mm in width. Then saw off a 19 x 19 mm strip from the top edge of each plinth board and mark the pieces to put them in place later. Finally, make the dovetail joints to hold the plinth boards together (Fig. 6a).Note. If instead of dovetail spikes you decide to make simple connections paus, saw out the plinth boards of the specified width (without allowance) and do not saw off the lath from above.

8. File the miter bevels on the slats for the side plinths only, without shortening them. Glue each of them to the corresponding part from which it was sawn off. Then glue the slats without bevels to the front and back plinth boards. Bevel only the top of the front and back plinth boards so that they fit snugly into the side plinth boards. The bevel edge should be close to the marking line, and the exact mating of the parts can be achieved by fitting, removing the material little by little (a photoL). Next, cut a 19mm fillet with a 3mm offset along the top edge of all plinth boards.

9. Glue the plinth boards to the base. You may have to use screws or nails to fasten them if you made bevels at their ends instead of dovetails.

Add doors

1. Cut out the crossbars HH, racks II and panels JJ specified dimensions (Fig. 7).

2. Make dowels 6 mm wide and 12 mm deep centered on the inner edges of all uprights and rungs. Then form spikes 6 mm thick and 12 mm long at the ends of the crossbars.

3. Assemble the doors by gluing the posts, rails and panels together. When the glue is dry, check how the doors fit into the base opening and adjust if necessary. Then mill 5×5 mm seams on the upper and lower edges of the doors with inside, as well as 10 × 5 mm folds on racks where there are no loops. These rebates leave enough space between the doors and the cabinet for the installation of magnetic latches.

Attach the doors to the cabinet with the hinges and put the magnetic latches in place.

Lower the lid onto the base

1. Invite three well-built buddies to use them to lift the heavy bench top and place it on the base. There is no need to fix it - thanks to its massiveness and precise fit, it is well kept in place.

2. Once you've set up your new workbench in your workshop, immediately move on to your next project so you can enjoy your time in the workshop even more!

For a zealous owner, a desktop is an indispensable attribute of a garage, barn or extension to the house. Of course, a carpentry workbench can be purchased. But if this product well-known brand, it is quite expensive. In addition, it is not known whether it will fully meet all the requests of the master. Cheap tables will not last long - definitely.

The most rational solution, if you really want to have the most convenient and versatile carpentry workbench, is to make it yourself. Having dealt with optimal dimensions, drawings, features of the selection of materials and a number of other issues, it will become clear that there is nothing difficult in this for any man.

Selecting a workbench project

You need to start with this. Any desktop is made for some specific purposes and premises. Joiner's workbench - the name is generalized. One is needed only for woodworking on personal plot(e.g. during construction or overhaul), the other is going for everyday work with small details, and from different materials. Depending on the specifics of use and the place of installation, its design features, dimensions, and drawing are determined.

Option A - portable workbench (mobile).

Option B - stationary workbench.

Option B - in fact, this is an intermediate (prefabricated) structure (on bolted connections).

For household purposes home master the table according to option A is best suited. It is called mobile only conditionally, only because of its relatively low weight. If a specific place is allocated for him in a barn or garage, nothing prevents the owner from fixing his legs on the floor (fill with concrete, “fasten” with large self-tapping screws, and so on). With your own hands, whatever.

Drafting a carpentry workbench

If the workbench is going to domestic use, then there are recommended linear parameters (in cm) that you can focus on. But this is not an axiom, so the master himself is free to change anything, at his own discretion.

Length - at least 180.
Width working surface– 90±10.
Workbench height - 80 ± 10 (taking into account the thickness of the tabletop). Deciding on this parameter, you need to focus on your own growth. It is unlikely that working with a tree will be effective and will bring satisfaction if you have to constantly stoop or, on the contrary, rise “on tiptoe”.

What to consider:

The number and type of compartments in the cabinet table. It can be open boxes, drawers or drawers with doors, shelves. Another thing is whether the master needs them?
To make it easier to work with samples different lengths, in the countertop it is worth drilling several “nests” for installing limiters.
To fix the workpieces, it is desirable to have a couple of clamping devices (clamps or screw vices) on the workbench. Optimal Width their “sponges” are 170 ± 5 mm.
Desktop location. Depending on the level of illumination, the number of fixtures fixed on the workbench (and above it) is determined. But at least a couple of pieces, on the edges of the tabletop, are necessary for “spot” lighting.

If the owner is left-handed, then this should be foreseen. All standard drawings posted on the Internet are designed for craftsmen whose "working" hand is right. Therefore, you will have to place additional / equipment on the table according to the “mirror” principle.

Workbench drawing example

Selection of materials

The bar is planed. Board.

The desktop is not installed in the living quarters. And in the workshop there will definitely be differences in both temperature and humidity. That's why for the manufacture of a workbench, wood is recommended - hornbeam, beech, oak. The only disadvantage of this solution is the high cost of materials. You can choose a cheaper option - maple, larch. These rocks are characterized by sufficient hardness. Although for the countertop of a home-made workbench, if it is not planned to carry out any “impact” work on it, plate samples (chipboard, OSV) are sometimes taken. In principle, any good owner can easily determine what suits him best.

Too porous wood should not be used. Even its high-quality treatment with antiseptics, oils will only increase the water-repellent properties, but will not add strength to the tree.

fasteners

Bolts. There are no particular difficulties with them. They should be of such length that a washer, grover and nut can be placed on the back side. More difficult with other types of fasteners.
Nails. How expedient it is to use them when assembling a workbench with your own hands (and such recommendations are quite common), everyone will determine for themselves. But a number of remarks are worth making.

Firstly, a nail, especially a large one, easily splits wood, especially if it is overdried.
Secondly, it is unlikely that it will be possible to drive it strictly vertically, given the length of the leg and the strength of the wood from which the workbench is made.
Thirdly, the difficulty with dismantling. For example, if it is necessary to repair the desktop with the replacement of a component. It is not always possible to pull out a tightly clogged “powerful” nail.

Self-tapping screws. For a small workbench - the best choice. The most "problem" areas can be additionally reinforced with metal strips, corners, plates. The main thing is to correctly choose the length of the leg of the fastener. There is a rule according to which it should exceed the thickness of the fastened part by 3 times, at least. Otherwise, the strength of the connection is questionable.

Assembly instructions for a carpentry workbench

In the process of making a desktop with his own hands, the master must constantly, at every stage, control the angles and levels. The slightest distortion even in one place - and everything will have to start over.

Manufacturing of workbench parts

This is easy to do according to the dimensions in the drawing.
Each sample is carefully polished.
Depending on the type of wood, an impregnating composition is selected and parts are processed to protect them from destruction by rot and wood-boring insects.
Drying. This is worth focusing on. It is impossible to initiate this process with the help of artificial heating, otherwise the workpieces will begin to deform - bend, twist. Moisture should evaporate only naturally - in a room with room temperature and good ventilation.

Base Frame Assembly (Workbench Base)

Partially about the features of fastening has already been said - self-tapping screws + reinforcement elements. But still, the main method of fixation is a tenon-groove connection with a fit on carpentry glue. But the fasteners only add strength to the entire structure of the workbench. But this is practiced only for massive tables that are not planned to be disassembled in the future (stationary options).

Here you should consider the degree of maintainability of the workbench. If he is in a room with good conditions, then it is unlikely that the wood will quickly begin to rot. In such cases, adhesive joints are fully justified. For desktops that are located in cold sheds, unheated boxes, and even more so under open sky, "landing" on the glue is undesirable. Partial renovation it will not work, and you will have to assemble the frame again.

Additional reliability of the design can be ensured by installing various jumpers - diagonal, horizontal. All this is thought out even at the stage of drawing up the drawing, although it is possible to make “refinement” during the installation process.

tabletop

This is the most loaded part of the workbench, and it is advisable to make it removable. In this case, it is easy (in case of significant damage) to replace 1 - 2 boards.

The width of the countertop is selected so that its surface extends somewhat beyond the perimeter of the frame. Otherwise, it will be inconvenient to work on such a workbench. Yes, and fixing the removable vise will no longer work.
The side parts of the boards are carefully polished. If you do not achieve an accurate fit of the samples, then you cannot avoid the appearance of cracks.
The blanks are stacked face down (on a flat base) and fastened with bars. They are placed perpendicular center lines boards, and the thickness of the latter allows them to be pulled with thick self-tapping screws. In extreme cases, it is easy to drill deep chamfers at individual points.

To make the tabletop removable, it is fixed on the frame using metal corners.
After its manufacture, additional grinding of the front part is performed. To extend the service life, it is advisable to treat the working surface with impregnating agents (wood oil, drying oil).

Workbench equipment

At what stage and what exactly needs to be done is decided depending on the modification of the desktop and the selected drawing. For example, the same vise. They can be purchased, which are easy to attach to the edge of the workbench. People with experience in carpentry, make clamping devices on their own.

In principle, a man who is “friends” with the simplest tool should not have any difficulties when assembling a carpentry workbench. The only recommendation is that before you start drawing up a drawing, you should carefully review all the photos of desktops available on the Internet.

Even if they do not have sizes, it is not difficult to determine them. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that there will be new, interesting ideas. After all, the workbench can also be folding, which is very convenient in a small box or barn. Yes, and having familiarized with the complete set of the table, design features various models, you can come up with something of your own, original. After all, the beauty of assembling with your own hands is in the absence of any canons. Only creativity + knowledge of the issue.

It's no secret that a well-equipped workplace is the key to successful plumbing, electromechanical or installation work. The main subject in the garage or workshop, around which everything is arranged work zone, is a workbench. This desktop must have the necessary functionality, be durable and reliable. Buying a finished product in a distribution network can result in a tidy sum, so it's better to make it yourself. This will make it possible not only to save money, but also to get a garage table in strict accordance with the requests for functionality and placement.

Workbench with your own hands. How to do?

Below we will tell you how to make a wooden or metal workbench with your own hands. The presented designs do not require the use of any scarce parts or the use of expensive equipment, and during the installation process, you can get by with minimal carpentry and locksmith skills.

Making a workbench with your own hands (from wood)

Making a carpentry workbench with your own hands has a lot of advantages, which are that you can pre-arrange the locations of the vise and other devices, consider the number and location of drawers, etc.

Necessary tools and materials

For self-manufacturing workbench you need to prepare the following tools:

electric jigsaw or hacksaw;
electric drill and a set of drills for wood and metal;
joiner's square;
roulette;
bubble level;
set of wrenches.
When stocking up on materials, be sure to pay attention that the wooden parts do not have cracks and knots. To get started, you will need:
bars for support legs 100x100 mm;
two plywood sheets with a thickness of at least 20 mm (OSB can be used). In this case, one sheet will go to the table top, and the other to the bottom shelf.
boards 50x150 mm, from which the frame will be mounted;
bolts (it is best to use furniture ones, with a square part that prevents them from rotating in wooden parts);
washers and nuts;
self-tapping screws.

To facilitate assembly and avoid mistakes when cutting material, it is better to make drawings of a workbench and indicate the dimensions of each part on it.

DIY workbench drawings

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

First of all, you need to make upper frame underframe. To do this, in accordance with the drawing, boards of the desired length are sawn off.

Using self-tapping screws, long and short parts are fixed in such a way as to get a frame rectangular shape. After that, measure the distance to its middle along the long side, where the spacer bar is installed. In its capacity, the same board 50x150 mm is used, which is attached to the frame from both ends with self-tapping screws.

Workbench made of wood with your own hands. A photo

Support legs a workbench is made from 6 identical bars. For their fastening to the upper frame, long bolts with nuts and washers are used. To mount the support, the bar is placed in the corner of the frame and two through holes are drilled through the leg and side board. Then the connections are tightened using bolts with nuts.

To achieve the necessary rigidity of the structure, the lower boards are mounted. By the way, these same details will serve as the basis bottom shelf. To do this, in full accordance with the drawings of the workbench, saw off 4 wooden parts with a section of 50x150 mm.

To fix the bottom boards, measure 30 cm from the edge of each support. At this height, one piece is attached to the three rear legs of the structure, and from the front board is attached between the middle and side supports on the side where it will be installed additional shelf.

Two short boards are mounted at the same height on the sides of the workbench.

Using an electric jigsaw or hacksaw, OSB sheets or plywood cut parts for countertops. It is fixed flush to the top of the desktop with self-tapping screws. To protect the surface of the workbench from damage, a layer of hardboard is laid on top of the plywood, which, as it wears out, can be easily replaced with new material. To install the bottom shelf, measure the distance from the middle to the extreme legs. The material is cut to this size and with a jigsaw or a hacksaw in its corners cutouts are made under support legs. The fastening of the shield to the lower base is carried out similarly to the installation of the tabletop.

To obtain the stability of the frame structure, when attaching the supports and assembling the frame locksmith workbench definitely use joiner's square. After installing the workbench, check the horizontal position of its location with a bubble level. If necessary, the level can be changed by placing small pieces of thin plywood under the legs.

Workbench with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction

After the assembly is completed, the workbench is impregnated with a special protective composition, varnished or painted.

Small workbench for home DIY

The design of the locksmith's workbench proposed below will greatly facilitate the locksmith's and installation work not only in a small garage, but also on a balcony, in the corner of a utility room, etc. With all the functionality and convenience of a full-size desktop, it won't take up a lot of space and can fit a variety of tools and accessories in its drawers.

tabletop small workbench It is made of two sheets of plywood glued together with a thickness of at least 18 mm and has dimensions of 1500x600 mm. To strengthen the table top, it has an additional thickening at the edges with two layers of plywood sheet, which gives a thickness of 72 mm.

Considering that 18 mm plywood is not the cheapest material (the cost of one sheet is about 1000 rubles), you can save a little if you buy a full-size sheet with dimensions of 2440x1220 mm. Unfortunately, this material is not enough to make a reinforcing strip, which is located around the perimeter of the lid, so you will have to additionally look for a small piece of plywood sheet. Otherwise, the design of the countertop will have to be changed.

Starting to build a small carpentry workbench with your own hands, prepare the following tools and materials:

a rule with a length of at least 2 m;
Circular Saw;
joiner's square;
notched trowel with a tooth size of 2x2 or 3x3 mm. You can buy a ready-made tool or make it yourself using a grinder;
screwdriver or a set of screwdrivers;
spanners;
good wood glue, for example, "Moment Joiner"
plywood 18mm thick;
wooden beam 40x60 mm;
self-tapping screws;
bolts, nuts, washers.

In addition, for the independent manufacture of a workbench, you need to acquire good carpentry clamps, without which it will be problematic to glue plywood sheets. If a quality tool it is not possible to purchase, you can use inexpensive Chinese clamps, which will need twice the amount.

The process of making a workbench with your own hands begins with lids, on which a strip 1520 mm long is cut from a sheet of plywood 2440 mm long. Sawing this part, they get elements measuring 1520x610 mm to reinforce the sides of the lid. Then, as a rule, the plane of the plywood sheets is checked in order to orient them with a convex surface inward when gluing.

The next step will require maximum concentration and accuracy - within a couple of minutes you need to evenly distribute wood glue on the surface of one sheet of plywood. If you feel that your lack of experience will prevent you from being able to do this job for such short term, then use PVA furniture glue to connect wooden parts. It has no time limits and can be applied with a simple paint brush. Having prepared clamps and boards in advance to distribute the load over the entire plane, lay them on three boards bottom sheet, and after applying the adhesive, cover it with the top plywood shield.

Having installed the pressure boards on top, tighten the structure with clamps, constantly controlling the flatness with the help of the rule. The place in the center of the tabletop cannot be pressed with a clamp, so it is left unloaded.

When gluing a shield from several sheets of plywood, you can do without clamps if you put the structure on a flat surface and press it evenly over the entire plane with some kind of load. After the glue dries, the clamps or the load are removed and proceed to the next step in the manufacture of the workbench with their own hands.

So that the tabletop has a strict geometric shape, when it is cut parquet you have to be very careful. A rule can be used as a guide rail for a saw. When cutting the tabletop to dimensions of 1500x600 mm, maintain 90 ° angles using a carpenter's square or using the factory corners left when cutting plywood as a template. Dissolve the remaining scraps of the plywood shield into strips 150 mm wide. You will need them to reinforce the tabletop around the perimeter, so glue them around the entire edge of the tabletop in two layers. In this case, the upper strips should overlap the joints of the lower pieces of plywood.

For the manufacture of underframe use a bar with a section of 40x60 mm. At the same time, the tsargs and prolegs are made of solid lumber, and the supports are glued from two segments and one whole beam. The height of the workbench is chosen taking into account your height, since when using it there should be no inconvenience and discomfort. In our case, the height of the workbench from the floor to the top surface of the tabletop is 900 mm.

Next, glue the legs and assemble two frames. In this case, it is important to observe the perpendicularity of the connections, since when deviating from right angle the geometry of the structure will be broken. It will be easier to achieve this condition if, even at the trimming stage, the angles of all parts are strictly at 90 °. In our workbench, the frame width is 900 mm and the height of the support legs is 830 mm. The gap from the floor to the bottom prong should be 150 mm.

After the glue has dried, the frames are mounted on the countertop and fastened with clamps. Then the legs are set strictly at an angle of 90 degrees to the bottom surface of the plywood shield and another set of prolegs and tsargs are cut out. For fixing the structure to the tabletop, self-tapping screws 8x120 mm are used.

You can increase the stability of the workbench if the prolegs and drawers are additionally fastened with the same self-tapping screws. Choosing a recess for the head of the hardware pen drill, ensure the aesthetics of the joints.

The workbench is almost ready. If desired, a box for storing tools can be made in its underframe.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench for the garage

The workbench made of steel has the necessary strength and reliability, which are required when working with metal products. Such a desktop can add functionality to any garage or workshop.

Materials and tools

To start making a workbench in the garage with your own hands, you should acquire the following locksmith tools:

angle grinder with cutting and grinding discs;
welding machine;
building level;
electric jigsaw;
drill with a set of drills;
screwdriver;
measuring tool.

Do-it-yourself metal workbench drawings

Some of the materials that are needed for the workbench can be found in the garage, and the missing parts can be purchased at construction market. You will need:

steel corners 50x50x4 and 40x40x2;
profile pipe 60x40x2;
steel strip 40x4 mm;
steel sheets 2200x750x2 mm;
boards 50 mm thick;
15mm plywood and drawer rails;
metal screws and bolts.

Also, prepare the paint and rust converter to make the product look aesthetically pleasing and the metal to be protected from moisture.

Step-by-step instructions for making a metal workbench

cutting material. A profile pipe is cut into the frame. The steel corner is used to strengthen the structure and edging the table top. The metal strip is needed as guides for the side panels and for the manufacture of drawer brackets.

Frame welding. From pipes 2200 and 750 mm long, connected in pairs, a rectangular tabletop frame is mounted. At the same time, it is taken into account that on top of the frame it will be necessary to weld the corners into which the boards of the working surface are laid. To strengthen the frame, segments are welded every 400 mm steel pipes as stiffeners.

How to make a workbench with your own hands from metal. A photo

Support legs 900 mm long are mounted along the edges of the table by welding, which are reinforced at the bottom with jumpers from a corner or profile pipe.

On both sides, the frames of the drawers of the workbench are welded to the legs.

Corners for edging are installed on the frame of the tabletop, after which they are fixed with a welding joint.

From a corner with a length of 2200 mm and 4 corners with a length of 950 m, a crate of a power vertical panel for a tool is equipped.

The finished frame is strengthened steel bar brackets, which are welded to its sidewalls. For strengthening, 24 elements are required. Additionally, it is required to drill holes in each strip for mounting the side and rear plywood walls.

Plywood is cut into pieces for the manufacture of boxes, after which they are assembled using self-tapping screws. The number of boxes and their location depends on the specific needs and personal preferences of the owner.

After assembling the drawers, metal strips with holes for attaching the slide are welded to the sidewalls of the frame.

All welds and sharp corners go through a grinder with a roughing wheel installed, and the rusty sections of rolled metal are cleaned with a metal brush nozzle.

The metal frame is treated with an anti-corrosion compound and painted with weather-resistant paint.

The boards are cut along the length of the countertop and placed in a frame from a corner. To prevent rotting and damage to wood by insects, the boards are treated antiseptic composition.

The lumber is placed in a prepared bed, leaving gaps of 2-3 mm between the wood and the metal to allow the wood to expand when it swells. After that, the boards are screwed with self-tapping screws.

Upper steel sheet treated on both sides with a rust converter, and after drying, they are attached to wooden tabletop self-tapping screws.

They paint the drawers of the table and install them on the rails, and also attach the side and back plywood sheathing.

After the workbench is made, install a vice and more necessary equipment, attach hooks to accommodate the tool.

What is a workbench

The workbench is a table designed for work related to the manufacture and installation of products made of wood, metal and other materials. Often, workbenches are additionally equipped with equipment for fastening workpieces, drawers and shelves for storing tools and accessories. Depending on the intended purpose, carpentry and locksmith workbenches for working with wood and metal are distinguished, respectively. Work tables for workshops and garages can be single or multiple. Workbenches designed for one workplace have a width of up to 0.8 m and a length of up to 1.5 m. The dimensions of multi-seat locksmith tables increase according to the number of people working behind them. The distance of the working surface from the floor is usually 0.8 - 0.9 m, however, there are also designs with adjustable height. Workbenches are most often made of metal or wood, and their countertops are covered with sheets of plywood, hardboard, galvanized sheet, boards and other materials.

Any economic man needs his own equipped workplace for storing tools and performing carpentry and plumbing work. In this case, a workbench will become a necessary element of the workplace, and now we will tell you how to make a workbench on your own.

Indeed, in order to buy it, you will need to shell out a significant amount and, in addition, choosing the right size for your room seems quite challenging task. But if you do it yourself, you can choose the required size of the workbench with an accuracy of up to a centimeter.

What workbenches are

A workbench is a desktop on which the master performs manual work on the processing of wood, metal and other parts. Self-made workbenches are installed in the garage, in the country and even in the apartment. The workbench is equipped with various additional devices that may be needed during work, such as stops and vices. In addition, storage containers are installed in workbenches. various tools and even documentation. By type of work, joinery, carpentry and locksmith workbenches are distinguished.

DIY workbench video:

Carpentry workbench

A standard carpentry workbench has this design. The main parts are the benchtop and the benchtop. Podverstache looks like a rack (usually two) that are interconnected wooden blocks. The material of this table element is usually pine or other soft wood.

The workbench or lid is made from hard rock wood, for example, oak, and has a thickness of up to 8 cm. The surface of the board is covered with drying oil. If you are going to assemble a workbench with your own hands, then you should know what additional devices you need to install on the countertop.

Note!

First of all, it should be a vice located in the front and used to fix parts.

In the back, you need to make a recess for storing tools in it. small size. On the edge of the workbench there are holes into which wooden chocks and metal combs are inserted. The standard workbench is suitable mainly for self made, and if you also want to use power tools, then for this you need to choose a workbench with large quantity holes for stops.

locksmith workbench

The locksmith's workbench is a more powerful structure. It has metal carcass, on which a wooden cover up to 6 cm thick and covered with an iron sheet is laid. The lid is edged with a three-sided bead and, in most cases, a bench vise is installed on it. The tabletop on such workbenches is made powerful so that it can withstand high shock loads, including sledgehammers.

The material is chosen at will, but the most popular MDF is galvanized, which allows you to protect the countertop from the influence of aggressive environments such as gasoline, oils or solvents. In addition, this countertop is easy to clean from dirt. The locksmith's workbench is equipped with several retractable drawers for folding tools.

carpentry workbench

Another type of such structures is the carpenter's workbench. This workplace is designed for processing boards and has dimensions that are significantly larger than the previous two options. Its dimensions are up to 6 m long and 1 m wide. A stop for processing the board must be installed on the carpenter's workbench. It has a cutout in the form of a triangle, for fixing the board with wedges, and is used during the processing of its edges.

Making a construction workbench

Let's figure out how to make a carpentry workbench with your own hands. First you need to make a frame of bars, and between the legs, for strength, install a jumper and a drawer (a connecting element that holds the structure together). It is desirable that they be located at a distance of about 45 cm from the floor. The installation of the workbench frame occurs in this order. First you need to prepare the grooves, then assemble the structure and coat the connection points with glue. We carry out the final fastening with the help of clamps.

Worktop for workbench

It is worth recalling that the manufacture of any design occurs more quickly and efficiently if you have at hand at least the simplest drawing of a carpentry workbench or part of it. Below we give a drawing of the table top, top view.

If the countertop is made of several boards, then it is necessary to ensure that there are no gaps between them, in order to avoid, during subsequent work, dust clogging there. The dimensions of the tabletop should be 3-5 cm larger than the workbench itself, for greater ease of cleaning the tool. The tabletop must be processed with a grinder and varnished. This will serve as protection against getting splinters in your hands.

Installing a vice and creating stops

After we have installed the countertop, we need to mount a vise on them. To do this, a recess must be cut out on the work surface so that a vertical plate can be placed in the same plane with the tabletop. We put the vise in the place where they will stand in the future, it is desirable that this is not a corner, and we make a basting for drilling. Then fasten with nuts.

Note!

Stops can be purchased at the store, or you can make it yourself.

Then we advise you to make them rectangular in shape with the ability to adjust in height. It is desirable to make holes for stops for a length of 50% of the vise stroke. In this situation, you can fix different workpieces well. A video instruction for making a workbench can be viewed in our article.

wooden workbench

Making a locksmith's workbench

Let's look at how you can make a locksmith workbench with your own hands.

Determine the height of the future table. For each person, it can be different, for example, if a man is 180 cm tall, then the height of the workbench is 90 cm. But still, for the final decision, you need to focus only on yourself.
Do not forget that the drawings of the locksmith's workbench, drawn by you, will be useful for faster and better assembly.
For a locksmith's workbench, the frame is best welded from a profile pipe and corners, but in extreme cases it can be made in the same way as a carpentry structure, from beams.
To make the structure as strong as possible, you need to put spacers between the legs. Sometimes, instead of spacers, a shelf is installed, in which you can later put the tool, paint and varnish liquids or other necessary items.
For stability of the structure, you can attach the legs to the floor. This will prevent the workbench from shaking while working.
Build a countertop from MDF and galvanize if possible. This will greatly increase its strength.
If you would like your workbench to be equipped with drawers, then place skids under the upper bars, similar to those installed for drawers in. Then you will have storage space for small parts, screws and nails.

Folding workbench

There is another type of workbenches that are used for both carpentry and metalwork. This is a folding workbench. It is very convenient in the absence of extra space in the room. After working on it, you can always fold it and put it in a corner to wait. next work. In addition, it can be transferred to the country when folded. Such a workbench consists of two parts: a removable workbench and a folding table. It is usually made in smaller sizes than stationary table.

DIY workbench video:

In contact with

See inaccuracies, incomplete or incorrect information? Do you know how to make an article better?

Would you like to suggest photos for publication on a topic?

Please help us make the site better! Leave a message and your contacts in the comments - we will contact you and together we will make the publication better!