Sharpening knives: theory and rules, making sharpeners with your own hands for various purposes. Do-it-yourself knife sharpening device: drawing Knife clamping device

AT household there are always cutting, sawing and planing tools. In the course of work, the sharpness is lost, and the blades have to be restored. You can give knives - planes to the workshop, but money is spent on this, and extra time is wasted. Therefore, home craftsmen prefer to sharpen the tool.

Important! Only blades with a certain degree of hardening can be sharpened. If the cutting part has a hardness higher than 55 HRC, it cannot be sharpened with improvised tools.

You can buy a tool for sharpening knives or other household utensils in the store. Save time, but spend a lot of money - good sharpening is expensive.

By the way, there are different opinions about the name of the tool for sharpening knives. Emery, touchstone, whetstone, whetstone, musat ...

Can these definitions refer to the same object, or different products? About this, and how to make such a device yourself, we will tell in the article.

Since the appearance of cutting objects (weapons, knives, axes), people have been looking for a way to restore the sharpness of the edge. In the Bronze and Copper Ages, it was easy.

How to make a do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine at home and what materials / tools will help in this matter?

Knives in everyday life should always be sharp enough to comfortably perform their functions. When cooking and cutting food, they constantly become dull, as a result of which they need to be sharpened.

To perform this work, many different machines and devices have been invented, ranging from the usual whetstone to complex electric grinders. Usage simple timber rather inconvenient and takes a long period of time. Exist manual machines to carry out this work.

Manual knife sharpeners

Grinding machines American company Lansky, slightly improved the usual sharpening with a bar. With the help of such a device, you can quite accurately adjust the angle of work with the blade, from 17 to 30 degrees.

Lansky sharpener at work

A similar do-it-yourself knife sharpening machine can be made by any craftsman due to the simplicity of its design, as demonstrated in the video below.

Machines with fixed blades

These devices allow you to sharpen the knife much faster, because they allow you to apply more effort. Moreover, the efficiency due to the presence of a hard stop in the form of a table also rises several times.

SpitJack knife sharpening machine

As can be seen in the figure, in machines of this type, the sharpening bar moves along the fixed blade at a set angle. The sharpening angle is adjusted by changing the height of the bar attachment. Among the domestic analogues of such machines, one can mention the machine manufactured by the Ermak company.

Ermak sharpener

Machine tools with fixed sharpening surfaces

In devices of this type, there is no way to adjust the angle of sharpening yourself. Most often, several devices are already installed on such a device. various angles for work. Using such machines, you just need to run the blade along the sharpening recess.

This recess consists of two planes, one or two of which is a sharpening bar. So in order to sharpen a kitchen appliance, it’s enough just to run the knife over the sharpened surface several times.

Mechanical sharpener Chief's Choice

Electrical Devices for Knife Point

You can also mention professional tools that are used by most chefs, and it takes only a few seconds for the knife to become as sharp as possible again. These devices have an electric motor that rotates the grinding blades.

Such canvases are often made with diamond abrasives, and the engine power does not exceed 100-150 kW. Although, of course, there are more powerful machines for sharpening blades that are used in production.

We make a device for sharpening with our own hands

To make a machine for sharpening knives with your own hands, you will need: a piece of laminate, wooden lath, sandpaper, and two bots with lambs. Instead of laminate, you can use chipboard or plywood.

To make a knife holder, you need to cut off a piece of laminate. So that the bar does not touch the holder when sharpening, you need to clean off its edge at an angle, using emery.

Marking and cutting upper part a vertical stand on which the bar will rest when sharpening. We choose an angle half that with which the knife will be sharpened, in our case it is 30 °. For kitchen appliances, it is better to use 10–15 °. In total, 2 such parts will be needed.
In order to correctly calculate the length of the base and the height of the racks, you need to approximately make a design and markup. It should be borne in mind that the further installation of the transverse support will affect the height. After that, we cut off all the details, and clean their edges.
Now we outline and drill holes in the base and the pressure plate at the same time for the bolts that fix the knife blade. When marking, it is important to maintain the distance of the holes from the edge of the base. This is necessary to ensure the versatility of the installation, since the knives have different width blades. We fix the pressure plate with bolts.
Vertical racks can be fixed with screws, but given that the load on them is small, it is better to use hot melt adhesive. In the same way we fix the horizontal crossbar. At this stage, the sharpener is already ready, it remains only to make a bar.
To make a bar, cut a rail of suitable length. We glue emery with the required size of abrasive on one of its edges, in our case it is P1200. To improve the result, you can make several bars, with different grain sizes. The range P600 - P2000 is considered more optimal. To protect your hands from cuts, it is advisable to screw the handle on the top side of the rail.
As a result, we get a functional and practical machine for sharpening kitchen knives. During operation, it rests with bolts on the edge of the table, which increases the comfort of use.

Video: how to make a knife sharpener from a piece of laminate?

Greetings, DIYers!
Today I want to show you how you can use the materials that are (or at least should be) in almost every workshop to make an excellent tool for sharpening knives evenly.

Initially, the master wanted to buy a ready-made knife sharpener in China (namely, in the Aliexpress online store), but he thought why not try to make such a sharpener with his own hands. Moreover, the prices for this product from Chinese friends are rather big.

For self-manufacturing need the following materials and tools:
1. Ordinary board;
2. Sandpaper;
3. Screwdriver;
4. Hammer;
5. Thick electrode 1 pc;
6. Electric jigsaw;
7. A piece of laminate;
8. Bolts and nuts;
9. Wooden handle;
10. Hex key;
11. Fluoroplastic or textolite (glass fiber).

Let's get down to actually making the sharpener.
To begin with, take an ordinary board and cut a piece out of it. Then it is necessary to process the resulting wooden blank, namely, sand it with sandpaper.

It will serve as the basis of our homemade grinding tool.
In terms of size, it turns out that we have 26 cm in length, the width of the blank turned out to be 6.5 cm, and the height of the wooden base is 2 cm.

Also in this board you need to make holes. In total, this part of the future product will have 6 through holes. We drill 2 holes for the rack itself (more on that later). Nearby we drill another hole of a smaller diameter, and also on the other side of the board we drill 3 more holes, which will serve to fasten the pressure plate.

We insert nuts into the holes made.

In the future, these nuts can be put on glue so that they do not fall out, but so far everything seems to be quite tight anyway.
Then we will be engaged in the manufacture of the guide rack itself. Her master made from an ordinary thick electrode. It needs to be folded in half. Further, with the help of a hammer, the author beat off welding electrode the entire top and sanded it. By the way, you can grind with an ordinary screwdriver. To do this, simply insert the electrode into chuck screwdriver and holding sandpaper in hand, we grind the product.

At this stage, the workpiece obtained from the electrode (guide post) is inserted into these two holes.
We insert not at a right angle, but at a slight slope. The guide angle is anywhere from 65 to 70 degrees.

Everything sits down quite tightly, but also for greater reliability of our design, in the future it will be possible to put the guide post on epoxy glue, or on some other glue, or on something else.

But perhaps the master is mistaken and this is not fluoroplast. Fluoroplast is most often white and some kind of slippery. Most likely it is textolite or fiberglass. But in fact, it's not that important. The main thing is that this material is quite hard and does not wear off.
From this piece (fluoroplast or not fluoroplast), the author sawed out a kind of pressure plate. He made holes in it, as well as small holes, so that the hats went a little deeper into the plate.

Then we put this plate on the previously made wooden base. Fasten with screws.

The author took the screws with a hex key. The craftsman also made a small hole in the base of the future knife sharpener so that this key would always be in this sharpener.

The whole thing is clamped and they (the screws) are actually not visible on the plate.
But here, the master did not do the secret, since the sharpening part of the tool will not touch this screw.

Further, the author made such a plate from the same fluoroplast.

In this plate, I made 2 holes for the same hex screw.
Further, the whole thing is put here and pressed with the help of a lamb.

Then the master made just such a guide for grinding stones.

The length of the guide is 57 cm. Its author made it from an ordinary steel bar. Also cleaned it up. And on one of the ends I put just such a handle (it seems to be from an old Soviet file).

You can also strengthen this connection by planting wooden handle from the file to the glue, but she went in here quite tightly herself, nothing falls out.

Regarding the attachment of the sharpening stones themselves. The author took a small piece of the clamp, cut it off and made holes. As a result, we got these corners, two of the same.

And here I put a nut with threaded threads and a clamping screw.

The master also put a spring on the guide so that you can change the grinding stones without unscrewing the nut with the clamping screw.

The sharpening stones themselves, or rather the base for these stones, were made by the author from an ordinary piece of laminate. Just cut it into strips.

The width of the strips is 2.5 cm, and the length is about 20 cm.

There are already ready-made grooves on the pieces of laminate, in fact, where the corners of the guide part of the device will become.
The author then glued the sandpaper onto the laminate pieces using double sided tape and signed which one where. And, in fact, this is how it all happened:

The whole thing is set up quite easily. With the groove of the laminate, we get into one corner of the guide, and with the second corner, with the help of a spring, we press the grindstone.

All. Nothing falls out. Everything is flat and pretty tight.
Let's continue to collect further our device. We insert the guide with the grinding stone fixed on it into the hole prepared in advance for it, and you can safely begin the process of sharpening the knife.

The move is quite large due to the fact that here the author removed a small chamfer on both sides.

Due to this, the move increased. We put the knife here.

Every housewife sooner or later begins to dull the knives with which she cuts bread, vegetables or butchers meat. Using a dull knife is not only inconvenient, but also unsafe. At any time, it can break off the cut product and cause injury. Therefore, periodically the tool should be sharpened, using a special device for sharpening knives.

Such sharpeners in a wide range are available in stores. But for one reason or another, they do not always suit the consumer. In this case, you can make a device for sharpening knives with your own hands, having previously studied the types of stones for sharpening, the features of the tool and the proposed drawings.

Sharpening knives - prerequisites

For efficient and long-lasting knife operation the most important factor when sharpening it is blade angle. In the process of sharpening, it is necessary to restore the previously set angle, which will fully comply with technological standards and quickly, freely and efficiently cut the material.

For each blade, its optimal angle is selected:

for a razor and a scalpel, the sharpening angle should be 10-15 degrees;
knives for cutting bread, fruits and vegetables are sharpened at an angle of 15-20 degrees;
multifunctional knives for various products are processed at an angle of 20–25 degrees;
hunting and hiking knives - at an angle of 25-30 degrees;
cutting knives hard materials- 30-40 degrees.

Without a special device, it is difficult to sharpen the blade at the right angle. Holding the knife with your hands, it is quite difficult to provide required angle of inclination cutting tool. To facilitate this process, there are special devices that you can make with your own hands. Their designs are quite simple, and the production itself will take not so much time.

There are many types of sharpeners for knives, among which you can choose the one that best suits your needs.

All devices consist of two parts:

a bar of abrasive material;
stop for attaching a knife.

As a bar, you can use ready-made special stones or make it yourself.

Sharpening stones - types and manufacture

On sale you can find several types of stones:

Aquatic tools. When working with them, water is used, which saves the surface of the stone.

Oil the stone resembles water in structure and shape, but its surface is the most oily.

Natural instruments are made from natural stones undergoing industrial processing.

artificial stones are made from non-natural components.

Rubber tools can also be found on sale, but working on them is not very convenient.

For self-production of an abrasive bar, you can use small plates of glass rectangular shape and thickness of 4-5 mm. on the surface of the plates with double sided tape you need to stick different grit sandpaper. The cost of such bars will turn out to be quite small, and sandpaper can be replaced at any time.

However, when using a glass bar, you should be very carefully tighten the nuts otherwise the glass may crack. In addition, its application does not use water, so the abrasive wears out quickly. For the same reason, when sharpening knives, fast movements should be avoided, which can lead to overheating of the material, and, therefore, to loss of blade properties.

Tool for sharpening wood blocks

It is enough just to make a sharpening tool from two wooden and two abrasive bars, which should be the same size.

For greater stability of the sharpener to its lower surface, it is recommended attach a piece of rubber.

Do-it-yourself sharpener from mounting brackets

The Lansky sharpener is taken as the basis for such a device, the drawings of which can be easily found on the Internet.

Required materials and tools:

metal plates measuring 4X11 centimeters;
standard aluminum corners;
metal rods about 15 centimeters long;
a set of nuts and bolts;
grinder with a vise or file;
file.

Instead of grinder you can use a file, since this tool is only needed for grinding sharp corners from the corners and cleaning the places where the metal is cut.

Steps for making a sharpener:

According to the drawing, markings are made for future holes in the plates.
Holes are drilled and threaded into them.
With the help of a file, all sharp corners and edges are rounded. This will allow you to comfortably use the made knife.
Holes are made in the corner in accordance with the drawing.
The hole for the spoke support is expanded with a needle file.
The holes for the studs are threaded.
The rods are inserted into the extreme holes and fixed with nuts of the appropriate diameter (M6).
An M8 bolt is screwed into a wider hole, the length of which should be about 14 centimeters. A wing nut must first be screwed onto it, on top of which two ordinary nuts are screwed. The bolt in the structure will be used as a support post.
Bolts are attached to the remaining holes, with which the knife will be clamped.
Nuts are screwed onto the ends of the rods, a corner is strung, which is fixed with nuts. By lowering or raising the rods, it will be possible to adjust the sharpening angle.
From a thin metal rod in the form of the letter G, a rod with an M6 thread, two holders and a lamb nut, a device is assembled that will hold the stone for sharpening. The end holder should be with a through hole for the knitting needle.

Such a device for sharpening knives has a fairly wide range of degrees of pressure angle and is most convenient to use.

The simplest variation of sharpening is a home-made device made of wooden and abrasive bars. To make it, you will need two bars of each type - they must be strictly the same size. Wooden products must be pre-treated sandpaper to remove all burrs from their surface.

The actual manufacturing procedure will not cause difficulties. First, mark the wooden blocks: taking into account the required angle of sharpening the knives, draw lines for future fastenings of abrasive blanks. Then attach whetstones to the resulting lines and mark their width on the wood. The next step is cuts: according to the markup, make on both wooden products cuts of the required slope and depth of 1-1.5 cm. Insert abrasive bars into the recesses and secure them with bolts.

Advice. So that the resulting device does not slip on the surface during the maintenance of the knives, attach a rubber gasket to it from below - it will give the device the necessary stability.

Massive sharpener on a stand

A more complex variation of the knife sharpener is a stand with a separate support and a sharpening rod attachment. For its manufacture you will need:

chipboard sheet;
wood block 8 cm long and 2x4 cm in section;
steel rod M6 or M8;
plexiglass 6x12 cm;
magnet with holes for fasteners;
self-tapping screws, bolts, wing nuts;
wooden clamps;
rubber feet;
saw and drill.

Sharpener construction scheme:

Cut three blanks from a chipboard sheet: 7x8 cm, 8x30 cm and 12x37 cm.
On the oblong side of the workpiece 8x30 cm, stepping back 6 cm from the edge, make a hole.
In the corners of the workpiece 12x37 cm, drill holes for the legs.
Drill two through perpendicular holes in wooden bar: the first - 3 cm from the edge, the second - 3 cm from the first. From the edge of the product to the first hole, cut out a recess 1 cm thick.
Make a cut in the center of the plexiglass strip.
On a workpiece 12x37 cm, stepping back 4 cm from the edge, fix the workpiece 7x8 cm perpendicularly with two screws. Fix the workpiece 8x30 cm from above with self-tapping screws.
AT highest point of the installed workpiece 8x30 cm, drill a small recess and fix the magnet in it with self-tapping screws. Put plexiglass on the same workpiece - fasten the products with a bolt through the previously made hole and slot.
On any edge of the 12x37 cm workpiece, drill a hole for a steel sharpening rod and fix it there with a wing nut.
Put a bar on the rod, securing it with a bolt and nut.
From the rod, nuts and two clips, assemble a knife holder.
Screw the legs to the finished stand.

How to sharpen a knife?

For quality, it is not enough to build one of the above devices - you also need to master the rules manual sharpening, and understand the order of work.

First, the required sharpening angle of the tool is calculated - it must be maintained throughout the entire sharpening process. Then, with smooth movements, alternately “away from you” and “towards you”, begin to drive the blade along the grinding element - an abrasive or a rod. In one movement, it should go along the sharpener from edge to edge. In this case, the movements are performed perpendicular to the edge of the blade.

Important! At the end of each pass, the blade should remain on the sharpener, and not fall off it, otherwise you can not only dull the knife even more, but also deform its side surface.

Drive the blade along the sharpener with one side until it reverse side a burr does not appear - then turn the knife over and start sharpening the second side of the blade in the same way. Continue sharpening with alternating sides until the burrs are completely gone. Gradually reduce the pressure of the knife.

How to determine the angle of sharpening?

The most important parameter for sharpening a knife is the required angle of inclination of the blades. It depends on the scope of a particular tool and the range of tasks that are assigned to it:

Razor of any type - an angle of 10-15 degrees.
Fillet knife - 15 degrees.
Knife for fruits, bread and vegetables - 15-20 degrees.
Multifunctional tools for cutting food - 20-25 degrees.
Hunting knives - 25 degrees. Such blades are designed for cutting not only soft products, but also wood, bones, and tissues.

Household knives general purpose- 25-30 degrees.
Tourist and camping knives - 30-35 degrees.
Knives for cutting hard materials - 30-50 degrees. The larger the sharpening angle, the worse such a knife cuts food, but the better it copes with wood, trunks, and plastic.

Please note that there are also combined knives: they are divided into several zones with different sharpening angles. The advantage of such tools is versatility, the disadvantage is the complexity of maintenance.

So, assembling a knife sharpener with your own hands is an excellent way out of a situation where there is no desire to buy a professional device or regularly contact the craftsmen for tool maintenance. Here are two options for making sharpeners of different levels of complexity - choose which one is within your power and use it strictly according to the indicated rules, so that sharpening is not only of high quality, but also safe.