We understand how different autofocus modes work for Nikon and Canon DSLRs. Nikon focus modes

Adjusting Canon's autofocus is a simple process that consists of several steps to check focus accuracy and make adjustments if needed. In order to present the material as best as possible, I use part of the answer from Canon technical PR Chuck Westfall, who answers questions from users on TheDigitalJournalist online resource 12 times a year.

It's unfortunate, but the accuracy of the autofocus system is really a big problem for Canon. Here, technical flaws in production and cases of incompatibility are possible. In general, the incompatibility of initially compatible parts is a highly philosophical topic, but this phenomenon sometimes happens, and not only with Canon.

Perhaps, due to a pronounced problem, an autofocus adjustment system was developed, which, of course, is very, very convenient! This feature allows you to adjust almost any working lens! It's great! Previously, in order to align the kit, you had to carry the camera and lens to an authorized service center. This was a huge problem for people from small towns, where such a service center simply did not exist.

Now, autofocus correction has become affordable and convenient, and our task is to figure out how to use it.

Before getting down to business, I will say a few more words about the adjustment process. In short, in order to determine the accuracy of the lens, you need to take a series of shots, thanks to which it becomes clear whether autofocus hits or misses. Misses can be of two types: focus point overshoot and undershot, back focus and front focus, respectively.

If everything is fine, then you forget about this article and enjoy life. If you find mistakes, then you need to understand what they are and make the appropriate correction to the camera, which, by the way, does not change the factory firmware. This type of correction works as follows: the camera receives not one command (to focus), but two, the second command is to move the focus point back or forward by a certain amount.

Such autofocus adjustment can still be divided into two types according to autofocus misses. In the first case, the camera misses with all lenses equally, and in the second with each lens at a different distance.

Both types of settings are completely different. Unless it's time consuming in the presence of a large fleet of lenses, in this case the first setting option will be faster.

Let's finish the long introduction and go directly to the autofocus adjustment, which, by the way, was written by the aforementioned Chuck Westfall.

How to set up autofocus on canon?

set the camera on a good sturdy tripod;
set the correct target with which to check the autofocus. You can download it. The characteristics of the target and its location are described in detail in the article "";

sufficient homogeneous light should hit the target;
the distance to the target must be at least 50 times focal length lens. For example, for a lens with a focal length of 105 mm, the target should be located at a distance of 5.25 m (105 mm x 50 \u003d 5250 mm \u003d 5.25 m);
canon autofocus mode must be enabled on the lens;
camera focus mode - One-Shot AF;
the test requires a central focus point;
test shots are taken with the most open aperture value;
use aperture priority mode (Av) or full manual mode (M);
proper exposure is essential for a successful test;
make the most of possible meaning ISO;
if the lens has a stabilization system, then be sure to turn it off;
use a cable release or shutter release timer to prevent shaking;
an excellent result will be given by the included function of the preliminary lifting of the mirror;
you need to take three series of shots that will use autofocus adjustment with values from -5 to +5. The series will be as follows: 3 shots in a row with a value of -5; three snapshots in a row with values of 0 and the last 3 snapshots with -5;
view the photos you have taken on a calibrated monitor with a scale of 100%;
repeat a series of test shots with different autofocus adjustment values and thus achieve the sharpest photos;
enter the resulting maximum sharp adjustment values in the corresponding menu of the camera.

Before checking and adjusting autofocus, I recommend that you read the recommendations below, which will allow you to conduct tests even more accurately:

Eliminate the angles between the AF test target and the optical axis of the lens. The presence of such angles greatly reduces the stability and efficiency of autofocus. It is worth remembering that the autofocus sensor digital camera assembled from a large number linear groups of pixels. Focusing on a target line at an angle to the optical axis of the lens may result in only a few pixels from each group being able to identify the target. Ideal conditions test would be a complete match of the contrasting part of the target to the entire area of the central autofocus sensor.

To get the best possible test shots, manually reset the focus before each shutter release. To do this, set the lens to infinity. Only after completing this procedure, focus.

If you shoot the same groups of pictures, most likely the photos in them will be slightly different. This is a normal situation due to the tolerances of the camera's autofocus system.

For the record, the autofocus adjustment of lenses becomes stronger, the longer the focal length of the lens.

You should be aware that the autofocus adjustment of a zoom lens will be relevant on this lens only at the focal length value at which you conducted the test. In other words, when testing a 28-70 lens at a focal length of 50mm, the adjustments you make will only work at a focal length of 50mm. In this case, the manufacturer recommends adjusting such a lens at the maximum focal length used.

It may happen that for a particular lens-camera pair, the autofocus setting will not be effective. In this case, contact an authorized service center for adjustment on special stands.

You also need to know what this moment there is no official system for adjusting autofocus. The method described above is one in which more cases had a positive result. Therefore, if you have come up with a more effective or faster technique - use it!

autofocus. However, accurate and fast focusing is unthinkable without the ability of the photographer to work with points and focus areas. Often you have to shoot children or animals that “run away” from focus every now and then. And sometimes very precise focusing is required: for example, in front of the model's eyes when shooting a portrait.

How to make the camera focus in the right place?

How to work with focus points in different shooting situations? How to make the camera take into sharpness what you need? Let's figure it out.

It is important for the photographer to remember that the camera is a mechanism, although very perfect, but not endowed with reason. The automation of the device can recognize the type of scene being shot thanks to the metering sensor and work with focus accordingly. However, the camera cannot be aware of all the creative ideas of the photographer - he does not know exactly what exactly in the frame you want to focus on.

How to make the device focus in the right place? The camera needs to point to the point that should be in focus. This can be done by selecting zones and focus points. Focus point selection is available with both single-shot AF-S and continuous AF-C.

How to select the desired AF area mode?

On cameras entry level(Nikon D3300, Nikon D5500) AF area modes are selected via the menu called up with the i button. In the corresponding paragraph, you just need to choose the best option.

Consider options for working with focus points. Each of them is beneficial in certain shooting situations.

Single point autofocus

Focusing occurs on a single focus point, which is selected by the photographer himself using the multi selector. Single-point AF (auto focus) mode gives it full control over focusing. This mode is especially useful for static scenes. These include landscapes, still lifes and portraits, if a person stands still, poses for us.

Single-point focus mode is usually used by default by advanced and professional photographers. It gives excellent results when working with fast portrait optics: when we shoot with it at wide apertures, the depth of field will be extremely small. Consequently, the slightest error with focus threatens that the frames will simply be blurry.

If you need precise focusing with fast optics, then it is easiest to achieve it when working in single-point AF mode.

But this mode also has its downsides. If there is fast movement in the frame (playing children, animals, athletes), we may not have time to select the desired focus point, and the subject will simply “run away” from focus. This is true even when shooting with AF-C continuous autofocus, because when tracking the subject, it can easily go beyond the selected focus point, and sharpness will be lost. In such cases, the following AF area modes are useful.

Dynamic AF

This mode is available only with focus tracking (AF-C). In it, we select the main focus point in the same way as with single-point AF. But when focusing, the camera also takes into account information from other, neighboring focus points. Thus, if the subject has moved away from your main focus point, the camera will still follow it, based on data from other sensors.

All modern Nikon SLRs, except for the simplest Nikon D3300, allow you to choose how many focus points will be used to track the object - sensors on the entire frame area or located next to the point chosen by the photographer. The fewer points involved, the more accurate the focus will be, but the easier it is to lose the subject from sharpness. And vice versa: the more sensors are involved, the more difficult it will be to lose the object from sharpness, but the greater the errors can occur when focusing.

Dynamic AF is great for shooting fast-moving subjects. For example, birds in flight.

When working with dynamic AF, do not forget that the main focus point will still be the one you have chosen. So for the most accurate focusing, you need to try to keep it on the subject being shot, not letting it go far from it.

3D tracking

This method, unlike the previous one, allows you to move the active focus point right after our hero automatically.

With AF-C tracking, the photographer selects the desired AF point. After that, if the subject moves, the camera uses the 3D tracking method, moving the focus point after it. Thus, you will not lose sharpness even on a very fast moving object. The most important thing is that the object does not leave the frame. Otherwise, it will have to focus again.

With 3D tracking, the camera registers the colors at the original focus point and then follows them as they move through the frame. Therefore, 3D tracking is most effective when the object being filmed differs in color from the background. Otherwise, 3D tracking may not give the desired results, and the focus will "jump" to objects that are similar in color. Then you should use the dynamic or group AF mode.

Group AF

In advanced models of Nikon cameras (starting with the Nikon D750), it is possible to select not one point for focusing, but a group of simultaneously active points at once. Single-point AF allows you to accurately focus on sharpness, but sometimes speed is more important than accuracy. Focusing on a group of points is well suited for reportage shooting, filming motion. It will also come in handy where the 3D tracking method fails (when the object and background are approximately the same color, when working in a dimly lit room).

Shooting action scenes in conditions low light- a real test for the photographer. Group AF is well suited for such conditions.

Auto-area AF

By turning on this mode, you will let the camera's automation decide on its own where in the frame you need to focus. But keep in mind: automation does not know what exactly you want to focus on. Her opinion may not be the same as yours. Usually, the automaton prefers to focus on the objects closest to the camera. Not the fact that those will be your heroes. For the correct operation of the automatic AF area, it is important that the subject being shot stand out in contrast, brightness relative to the background. It is desirable to place the object closer to the center of the frame. Also, do not block the subject with some kind of foreground (for example, take a portrait through the branches flowering tree) - in this case, the focus will now and then “run away” to the fore.

Focus Area Modes Available in Live View

We know that a completely different type of focus works in Live View - contrast. Therefore, in this mode, you will not find the usual modes of operation with focus points. There are a number of interesting modes of their own, sometimes opening up new opportunities for the photographer.

One of the advantages of contrast focusing in Live View is that we can focus on any area of the frame, even on the very edge. To do this, just move the focus area to the right place in the frame using the multi selector, and in cameras with a touch screen (for example, Nikon D5500) - with a simple touch. In Nikon cameras, we can set a certain size of the focus area.

Normal area AF It is a small rectangle on which focusing occurs. Since the area of the rectangle is small, the focus will be very precise. This mode, like the single-point AF mode when working through the viewfinder, is great for shooting static scenes.

Nikon D810 / Nikon AF-S 50mm f/1.4G Nikkor
When photographing with a shallow depth of field, focus accuracy must be perfect. The Normal Area AF mode will be an excellent choice for such shooting.

Wide area AF suitable for faster, but coarser focusing: focusing occurs on the area that is larger. The wide area AF mode can be used where focusing speed is a priority - when shooting a reportage, recording a video.

Wide AF mode is appropriate when shooting frames with a large depth of field, when working on closed values diaphragm. In such situations, perfect focusing accuracy is not required - a large depth of field eliminates focusing flaws.

Frame with a large depth of field. In this case, focusing on a wide AF area is quite possible.

Face priority AF- A function available only with contrast focusing. It will be ideal for photographing people. Automation itself recognizes the face in the frame and will continue to follow him, even if the hero moves. This function is well suited for shooting a reportage, for working with universal zoom lenses. But if you are shooting with a fast portrait lens, for perfectly accurate focusing, I advise you to use the normal AF area mode. Combined with continuous focus mode AF-F, face-priority AF is also suitable for dynamic scenes with people (for example, sports), because the camera itself will keep the person's face in sharpness.

If there are multiple faces in the frame, the unit will focus on the closest face by default. Use the multi selector to select another face to focus on.

Difficulties can begin if a person periodically turns away from the camera or you generally shoot him from the back. This often happens when shooting reportage, shooting sports events. If the camera does not find faces in the frame, focusing will occur in the same way as in the wide area AF mode - along a large rectangle.

Object maintenance is another interesting feature available in Live View mode. In many ways, it resembles the 3D tracking mode. In subject tracking mode, you first need to align the focus area with the subject and press the center of the multi selector. Now the camera will follow the movement of the object in the frame.

It is interesting that object tracking can be carried out both in the mode single-frame autofocus AF-S, and in AF-F continuous focus mode. In AF-S mode, the device will keep the selected object in the focus frame, but it will only focus on your command - by half-pressing the shutter button. In AF-F mode, focus will be constantly maintained. It is perfect for shooting action scenes! It is important to remember only that focusing in Live View mode is more demanding on light than normal. In low light conditions, it is better to use normal focusing through the viewfinder.

Konstantin Voronov

I have been a professional photographer for over 8 years. Field of activity - wedding, portrait, landscape photography. Journalist by education. Developed several courses for the online photography training service Fotoshkola.net. Teacher, master class leader.

How to tame autofocus

The focusing system of the camera is designed to help you get sharp, and therefore high-quality, pictures. You can adjust the sharpness manually or leave it to the automatic camera. Your choice will most likely depend on the shooting situation and creative intentions.

In fact, the autofocus of modern cameras copes with most scenes "perfectly well." However, do not think that the camera will do everything itself. There are a number of nuances, only after mastering which you can “tame” autofocus and get the shots that you would like for you.

Auto Focus Modes

To get started with autofocus, first turn it on. In a number of cameras, there is a special switch for this, designated as "AF / M". With it, you choose manual ("M") or automatic ("AF") focusing. If there is no such switch on the camera or lens, then the autofocus mode is activated using the menu.

Modern SLR cameras have several autofocus modes. By choosing a mode, you determine exactly how your lens will focus. The accuracy of the automation and, as a result, the quality of your picture will depend on the correct choice.

The main autofocus modes that every SLR camera has are frame-by-frame focusing (also called spot, single, final or one-time) and tracking focusing (continuous). You need to select the mode you need in the camera settings.

You should also be aware that by default, single focus mode works in focus priority (i.e. the shutter will only work after focusing), and focus tracking mode works in shutter priority (i.e. the camera will take a picture immediately after pressing the shutter button, regardless of focus). You can change these settings as you wish.

Single-frame autofocus in cameras from different manufacturers can be denoted as

Single focus is used for static scenes (such as landscapes, portraits, or product shots). Before you take a picture, you must make sure that the camera is fully focused. Automation will inform you about this with a sound signal and a change in the backlight in the focus area. If the subject is moving, the camera may make a mistake - the subject will move out of focus. Therefore, when changing the position of the object, it is necessary to focus again.

Tracking autofocus just designed for shooting dynamic scenes (for example, sport games, children or running animals). While the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera continuously focuses on the subject and tracks the distance to it as the distance changes. Automation determines the estimated speed of the object according to previous focusing data and focuses on the calculated distance. The focusing process does not stop until the picture is taken.

If the subject constantly changes the speed of movement, then autofocus errors are possible, but they are minimal. Also, the quality of tracking autofocus depends on the illumination of the scene being shot, the capabilities of your optics, and the number of autotracking sensors that the camera uses. In the camera menu, AF tracking mode is displayed as

AIServo - for Canon cameras;

AF (C) - Continuous Servo - Nikon DSLRs.

You should keep in mind that constantly keeping a moving subject in focus of the camera will significantly speed up battery consumption. Therefore, when shooting for a long time, take an extra battery with you to the shooting location.

Auto or intelligent autofocus. The camera electronics itself selects the focusing mode by determining whether the object in the frame is static or dynamic. This is useful when you need to constantly keep a lot of objects in your field of view and it is difficult for you to predict which focus mode you will need in the next moment. Also, intelligent autofocus often "saves" beginners. However, you will agree that sometimes it is difficult for the camera system to guess your creative intent. Therefore, in the end, you can get far from the picture you would like. In the menu, Intelligent AF mode is indicated as

· AI Focus AF - in Canon cameras;

· AF-A - from Nikon.

Focus points

Having decided on the autofocus mode, set the desired focus point in the camera menu. In this way, you will “let know” to your camera exactly where in the frame area you need to focus.

The focus point is a certain point in space that corresponds to the subject or part of it. As a result of the autofocus, it is the sharpest in the frame. Focus points are also called special marks in the camera's viewfinder, with which the photographer correlates the subject for subsequent focusing on it.

The SLR camera allows you to focus on all possible or one given point. The accuracy and stability of autofocus largely depends on the number and location of focus points. And the number of points itself depends on the model of a particular camera. In some modern modifications of professional cameras, there can be up to fifty of them. However, for successful work nine or eleven focus points, which most modern cameras have, will be quite enough for you.

The location of the focus points in the viewfinder approximates the location of the camera's autofocus sensors. Autofocus sensors can work individually or in addition to each other for more precise focusing. The central sensor is often the most accurate.

Focusing on all points(or automatic focus point selection). Works in both tracking and single-frame autofocus. In the camera menus, automatic focus point selection is graphically represented as a white rectangle.

By default, the camera uses all autofocus points. When you do not have the opportunity to carefully tune in, then this can be convenient. The main thing to remember is that the camera, having received information from the sensors, focuses on the object that is located closest to it, or on the one that has the most contrast. Whether this is enough for your work or not - judge for yourself.

When you use One-Shot AF, the viewfinder will highlight the points where the camera is in focus. If you are not satisfied with the result of focusing, you will need to re-focus. And in the tracking autofocus mode, highlighting will not happen.

Automatic selection of focus points is appropriate to use if:

· The subject being filmed is dynamic (for example, shooting from a bus window) or the movement of the subject is difficult to predict (for example, filming a football match). In this case, it is simply not possible to select the focus point each time after the next move. Focusing on all points works very well simultaneously with tracking autofocus mode;

the scene being shot is far from the lens, and you want to get sharp all the elements of the frame (for example, a view from a hill to a city);

If the subject is on a solid background, then the camera will not make a mistake in focusing (for example, a white object on a white background).

In other cases, to ensure that the sharpness in the picture is exactly what you intended, choose the focus point yourself.

Focusing on the center point. Many photographers use single-point focusing for constant work in single-frame autofocus mode: this is convenient in most situations.

determine the center focus point in the viewfinder;

point it at the main object of the future frame;

Press the shutter button halfway to bring the lens into focus and lock the focus;

Recompose the frame according to your plan, moving the camera in one plane;

· Take a picture.

This method is suitable for static scenes (for example, portraits, product landscapes) and, of course, for shots where the subject is located in the center.

The central sensor of the camera is the most sensitive and accurate, so focusing on it can be used in low light conditions or vice versa when you work in backlight and focusing is difficult.

Focusing on a set point(or dynamic autofocus). The mode allows you to manually set any off-center point, which should be the sharpest in the frame. Switching points is done using the wheel or joystick button.

For example, if you need to focus the viewer's attention on the background of the picture, then it is best to focus on the top points, then the foreground objects will be a little blurry. And when working on a portrait, try to correlate the focus point with the eyes of the model.

3 Dtracking.Used simultaneously with tracking autofocus mode. The photographer selects a point, the camera sensor focuses on it and continues to focus when the subject moves or when the camera itself changes position. Thus, the focus point moves automatically. At the same time, the sensors take into account not only the distance to the object, but also its color, which makes focusing more reliable.

Autofocus lock for recomposing shots

Why you need to activate autofocus, you already understand, but its blocking requires special attention.

Autofocus lock (i.e. keeping the camera's attention on the subject that the photographer wants) is most often used to recompose the frame. That is, you sharpened, and then moved the camera so that the composition of the picture turned out to be the most successful. How to "convince" the camera to keep focus? There are two ways to do this.

After sharpening in single focus mode, the camera locks the focus and maintains focus until the shutter button is pressed (until the picture is taken).

In order for the focus to “not go away” during the recomposition of the frame, it should be understood that the automation does not actually focus on a specific cat, for example, which you are shooting, but at a certain distance to this very cat. Therefore, if you change the distance during recomposition (get closer to the subject or move further away from it), then the focus will be lost, and your cat will be out of focus in the picture.

But all objects that are in the same plane with the cat (ie at the same distance from the camera) will be sharp. That is why, when recomposing a frame, the camera can only be moved within the same plane (ie left and right, up and down).

Even moving the camera in the plane of focus may not be successful: it depends on how far you move the camera, what depth of field you have and the lens. Sometimes more suitable way achieve sharpness in the desired part of the frame - use the side focus point without subsequent recomposition.

Accordingly, if you shoot dynamic objects in tracking autofocus mode, then the first locking method is not suitable for you: when you move the camera, the focus will also move after the focus point. In such a case, you can use "autofocus trap"- back button focusing. The AF-ON (or AF-stop) button on professional cameras is the tool that allows you to “catch” the desired object in the focus area.

On amateur-level SLR cameras, the AF-ON button is most often missing. However, you can assign the AF-ON function to a programmable button (if available) using the menu.

Be careful when you switch the camera to AF-ON mode, when you press the shutter release, it will not automatically focus. For the camera to focus, you will need to press AF-ON, and when you release the button, the focus will lock. Refocusing will not occur until you press the AF-ON button again.

In what situations is manual focus preferable?

Many novice photographers needlessly neglect manual focusing in favor of automatic focusing. In practice, there are situations when manual focusing helps to quickly achieve the desired creative result.

To start in manual focus mode, set the switch on your lens to the "MF" position, and then turn the focus ring until the desired sharpness is obtained.

Consider situations in which it is more convenient to use manual focus:

Shooting out of focus

Once you have learned and practiced all the correct focusing techniques, you can try to break them for artistic out-of-focus shots. Of course, so that such works do not seem like just "spoiled shots", you need to think carefully about their concept and develop an idea that you want to convey to your viewer. To do this, you need to pay attention to objects that are interesting in their outlines and can give the pictures a certain mystical or surreal meaning.

Do not forget that the right picture may not work the first time, but over time, when you switch to “you” with your camera, the technique will become your reliable assistant in the implementation of creative ideas.

Photos to illustrate the article are taken from the official website of the manufacturerTamron

When photographing, along with the settings, ISO and image quality, one of the most important parameters for a SLR camera is correct setting focus mode and method.

Nikon has a variety of options for how focus works with different combinations of focus modes and focus areas. Typically, focusing on modern Nikon digital SLR cameras occurs when pressing the shutter button halfway, or by pressing the dedicated AF-ON button.

Focus modes:

'AF-S' or ‘S’ (Auto Focus Single)- focus mode cameras, at which the camera focuses when the shutter button is pressed halfway, and when successful focusing is achieved, it stops focusing. Once pressed - once focused. In camera manuals, the mode is often translated as ‘ Single-servo AF‘. To change the aiming accuracy, you need to release the button and press again. The mode is suitable for static scenes.

Focus mode switch to . The same is available on cameras, D1, D2, etc.

'AF-C' or ‘C’ (Auto Focus Continuous)- tracking continuous (continuous) auto focus mode of the camera (in the instructions often translated as ' Continuous Servo AF‘). When the shutter button is pressed halfway, the camera constantly tries to focus correctly. Press the button - and the camera constantly monitors the focus. A very useful mode when subjects are moving or the composition is changing.

This is how the focus mode on cameras is selected by type, D4

AF-A (Auto Focus Automatic)- automatic focus mode selection cameras. In this mode, the camera can choose to work in AF-S or AF-C mode. Basically, all amateurs shoot in AF-A mode and often do not even know about the presence of other modes. I noticed that the mode AF-A often behaves like AF-S mode.

AF (auto focus)- general auto focus mode. The mode is turned on on the camera itself, not to be confused with the 'A' mode on the lens itself.

AF focus mode switch (lever) on the camera

MF(manual focusing)- manual focus cameras. The mode is activated using the camera menu. Usually, only focusing has such a mode. In this mode, you need to manually turn the focus ring on the lens to achieve the correct focus. On the one hand: manual focus can be difficult for beginners, on the other hand: it A vital focusing method for advanced photographers and professionals. Manual focusing on the CZK is one of the major advantages over conventional digital cameras (soap dishes). Very often, the automation of the camera and the lens cannot determine how to focus correctly, and to achieve optimal focus, it is enough to switch to manual mode and tell the camera to focus manually.

Focus mode switch using Nikon D5100 camera menu

M (M - manual focusing) - manual focus on the lens or on the camera. Same as MF. Attention: Not all lenses have a focus mode switch, for example, the lens does not have any focus switches at all. Important: In order to switch to MF manual focus mode with a lens that does not have a focus mode switch, you need to switch the focus lever on the focus camera to ; on the focus camera, only MF mode with such a lens will always be available. About different types of lenses and cameras are described in detail in the section.

A (Auto)- auto focus mode lens. In this position of the focus switch on the lens, only automatic focusing with the lens is available. Attention: not all lenses have such a focus operation switch, for example, the switch on the lens is shown below.

M/A (autofocus with manual override)- auto focus lens with manual override. Attention: Not all lenses have this focus mode, the example below shows the switch on the lens. This mode involves automatic focusing. with instant manual focus adjustment, while the lens does not need to be switched to focus mode 'M'. You can read more about this mode.

AF-F ( Full Time Servo Auto Focus) - continuous focus mode for shooting video. Attention: This focus mode is only available on modern cameras with video recording capabilities. This mode does not work when taking pictures. Normally you can't find the mode in the menu AF-F, it is only available in Live View when entering the info menu. This is a very useful mode, it allows you to record video with full-time auto focus. This mode is only available in cameras starting from .

Important: due to the fact that all Nikon CZKs have different controls and different menus, each camera switches focus modes in its own way. In the general case, the choice of focus mode M, AF, S, C is responsible switch near lens mount to focus and adjust in the menu of the camera itself. For non-motorized cameras, the focus mode is selected only through the camera menu. Various combinations of settings for different camera types are shown in the diagrams above.

Damn important: if you are using a focusing camera, and it has a lens with auto focusing but focusing and without a focus mode switch on the lens itself, for example, a bundle (camera) and a lens (without a focus motor and without a focus mode switch) - for manual focusing, you must definitely switch lever near the camera mount to the 'M' position, otherwise when manual focus can damage the camera.

A number of cameras from Nikon have a built-in rangefinder (focus indicator in the viewfinder). The rangefinder in the viewfinder can tell you in which direction you need to turn the focusing ring on the lens in order to achieve the correct focus. The rangefinder works with both automatic and manual focusing. There is a rangefinder in cameras, etc. In general, on old lenses that could not focus automatically, there is a special focusing scale on which the distances to the focusing object are indicated. It's a pity that when using old optics on younger Nikon cameras, the rangefinder refuses to work. With manual optics, the rangefinder only works on older Nikon cameras.

On any Nikon CZK camera, a green circle in the viewfinder in the lower left corner of the viewfinder is responsible for the accuracy of focusing on the selected focus point. When it is lit, it means that the sharpness of the selected point is normal. The green dot (focus confirmation dot) is indispensable assistant when working with old class lenses and the like, for example, such as

Advanced cameras have fine-tuning how focus works: release priority and focus priority in AF-C and AF-S mode.

Usually in AF-C mode, the choice is:

FPS frequency - shutter release is more important for the camera than focus accuracy, this is called release priority
FPS + AF frequency - shutter is more important for the camera, but it also takes into account focusing accuracy (not available on all cameras)
Focus - focus is the most important thing for a camera, not shooting speed.

Using the priority setting, you can set what is more important when shooting - focusing and then releasing the shutter, or releasing the shutter and ignoring focus. I set AF-S priority to focus priority mode, AF-C to shutter priority mode.

Important note:

Live View (live view)

live view allows you to turn a complex SLR camera into an ordinary soap box, that is, you can focus (take pictures) using the large display of the camera itself, and not through the optical viewfinder (peephole). In Live View mode, focusing is by contrast. This method is much slower than normal focusing through the optical viewfinder. Moreover, the difference in focusing speed in Live View mode and through the optical viewfinder can be dozens of times. Some cameras have two focus modes in Live View. The first is “tripod” focusing, it is done as on conventional digital cameras (dichotomously, in contrast). The second is that you can frame the frame through Live View, but when you press the shutter button to focus, the camera turns off Live View mode, focuses through the normal focusing system, and then turns on Live View mode again or takes a picture. A simple description of how Live View works can be found on Dmitry Evtifeev's blog.

Settings are responsible for working with focus points AF-area mode (focus area mode).

Automatic (auto-area AF), indicated as a white rectangle. Focuses on the nearest subject using all available points.
Dynamic (dynamic-area AF), focusing works only on one point, but takes into account information from nearby points
Single point AF, focusing is performed on only one point.
Additional: 3D-tracking, or a choice of several zones. These settings are not available on all cameras and are often sub-functions of dynamic focus area selection.

Important:

It is very convenient to set up the selection of the focus area method for amateur and advanced amateur cameras using a soft key (as I did on). This will allow you to quickly switch between single point focusing, auto area selection, dynamic mode, 3D tracking, etc. Nikon professional and flagship cameras have a special zone switch, which simplifies the work with professional equipment.

Attention:

in manual focus mode (M, MF), only one focus point can be focused.

Important:

A number of cameras can show on the picture which point or group of points was in focus. When viewing a picture, you can activate a mode in which the focus points will be indicated by squares. This mode is supported only by professional cameras of the type, and all full-frame. This is convenient because when setting up a quick preview of the image at a scale of 1 to 1, zooming is done exactly at the focus point that was taken. This allows you to quickly check and select good sharp shots. On advanced amateur and amateur cameras, to view the correct focusing, hold down the image zoom button, and then use the selector to find the area in the image that was focused on. If your camera does not have a function that shows which point was in focus, you can use the ViewNX software that came with your camera. The focus points can be displayed on the computer display. Sometimes this is very helpful. In the photo examples, I just copied the work of the ViewNX 2 program.

Important:

ViewNX only shows focus points on the computer when the picture was taken in AF-A, AF-S, AF-C with focus priority. If AF-S, AF-C with shutter priority is selected, the program will show focus points only if the camera was sure that focus was achieved correctly.

Important:

Not all Nikon cameras allow you to change the focus area and type when using automatic modes (green mode). In P,A,S,M modes, everything can be adjusted to your taste.

Function "circle focus points"

This function simply allows you to move the focus point in a circle, thus looping it. When the far right point is selected, pressing the selector right will move the focus point to the far left. This function simply allows you to speed up the work when focusing on a single point.

Wide and standard focus area

In some cameras, you can select a wide focus area, as opposed to a normal one. A wide focus area reduces the number of focus points (zones). For example, with 11 focus points, 7 wide zones are created. Optically in the viewfinders, the zones will be larger in size than the dots. This sometimes makes it easier to work with the camera.

Focus adjustment (adjustment)

Sometimes the lens may malfunction and focus behind the subject (back) or in front of the subject (front) of focus. Popularly, such a lack of lenses is called back focus, front focus (back and front focus). Some cameras may adjust to the "wrong" lens. To do this, you need to find a focus adjustment in the camera and correct the focus. Only , D500 , D7500 , D800e , D800E , D810 , D810a , , D3x , , D4s , , , have tuning.

Focusing with "dark" lenses

Almost all Nikon cameras can focus automatically without problems only when using lenses with apertures up to F / 5.6. This is stated in the camera manual. When using lenses with a smaller aperture, such as the Tamron 28-300mm F/3.5-6.3 XR Di VC LD Asph (IF) Macro, focusing problems at F/6.3 may occur. Also, when using , which lower the effective "converter lens" values, focusing problems may also occur. Only a few cameras can focus without problems with lenses with an aperture of F / 8.0 - these are Nikon D4, D4s,,

Single point focusing with Nikon D2Xs camera

Cross-shaped focus points (sensors) vs regular focus points

No matter how much I used focusing on one point, I did not find a difference in the quality of focusing on a cross-shaped point and on a regular focus point. Basically, they say that cross-shaped focus points (sensors) are much better at focusing than ordinary points. It is generally accepted that cross-shaped focus points do a better job with scenes like 'wire against the sky'.

Focus illumination

Nikon cameras have a special light bulb that helps to focus in dark conditions. The light bulb simply illuminates the subject of focus and autofocus is easier to deal with focusing. In AF-C mode, the backlight may not turn on. The focus light is often referred to as a "spotlight" and is recommended to be turned off. Personally, I have the backlight turned off, but in poor lighting conditions I use a flash that has its own "red spotlight" with a long range. More details about flash spotlight in.

Everything is complicated and little is clear?

Then just turn on AF-A and the icon with a rectangular focus area. Automation does a good job with basic tasks. I recommend fully automatic focusing for "home" use. Sometimes fine tuning focus point modes does not justify itself.

Which Nikon camera has the best focus?

Conclusions:

Learning how to manage focus modes will help you achieve the desired result more accurately and quickly. I strongly recommend experimenting with the modes and focus areas on your camera.

What should you do if you get fuzzy footage on a regular basis? Is the technique to blame or is it your actions? This article will help you figure it out. In it, you will learn how to check the focusing system of the device for accuracy and adjust it to get sharp shots.

Nikon D810 / Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor

I would like to say right away that in most cases it is not the camera that makes the mistake, but the person working with it. So, for starters, it’s worth looking for the cause of errors with focusing in your own actions with the device. In recent tutorials, we talked about how to work with different autofocus modes and focus points. This knowledge will help you in practice. It will also be useful to read an article on how a novice photographer can evaluate and improve the quality of their own work.

Autofocus can fail when working in low light, and when shooting complex, diverse shots (the camera will not know what to focus on). Such focusing shortcomings can be avoided by simply setting the device according to the shooting conditions. For example, choosing the AF-C constant focus mode and 3D subject tracking when shooting sports will allow you to get much more sharp shots than working with single focus. But there are focus errors that occur systematically, regardless of the shooting conditions.

Back and front focus

In SLR cameras, the phase type of autofocus is the main one. It is with him that you are dealing, working through the viewfinder of the camera. Phase focusing occurs using a separate sensor installed in the camera. As you can see, this a complex system, and sometimes it can work inconsistently.

The consequence of this will be systematic autofocus errors, called back- and front-focus. In the case of back focus, the camera constantly focuses not on the subject being shot, but behind it. In the case of front focus, on the contrary, the camera constantly focuses in front of the subject. Please note that the presence of back- and front-focus can only be said when the camera makes a mistake with focusing every time in the same direction. If one frame is sharp and the other is not, then the problem should be looked for elsewhere.

Back focus: the focus was made on the face of the girl, and the sharpness ended up behind her, on the fence.

The problem of back- and front-focus is especially terrible when working with high-aperture portrait optics. There, the depth of field will be very small, therefore, any, even minor focusing errors will be very noticeable in the photo. For example, the sharpness in the frame will not be in front of the model, but on the ears.

On the other hand, if you are a happy owner of a whale lens or universal zooms that do not shine with high aperture, you can sleep peacefully. After all, even if your camera has back or front focus, you most likely will not notice it, because focusing errors will be compensated by a large depth of field.

Contrast autofocus

In a SLR camera, in addition to phase focusing, there is another type of autofocus - contrast. You activate it by turning on the Live View mode and sighting the picture through the screen of the device. With contrast autofocus, there can be no back and front focus, since it does not require separate sensors for its operation, focusing passes directly on the matrix. Thus, if phase focusing regularly "smears", try switching to Live View mode and working with contrast autofocus. It works a little slower, but gives more accurate results.

Checking Focus Accuracy

How to check the camera for back and front focus? An accurate conclusion about the presence or absence of these shortcomings can only be given by an authorized service center of the manufacturer of photographic equipment. However, the photographer can make a preliminary assessment of the focus accuracy for himself.

We propose a simple algorithm for such verification.

First, let's prepare the camera.

1. Insert the battery and memory card into the camera. Turn on the camera.

2. Check if autofocus is enabled.

On entry-level models (such as the Nikon D3300 and Nikon D5500), autofocus is enabled by a switch on the lens. It should be in position A.

On advanced cameras, there is a switch on both the lens and the camera. The letter M stands for manual (Manual) focusing. The abbreviation A (Auto) or AF (Auto Focus) stands for auto focus. Both switches must be in the appropriate position to enable auto focus.

3. Press the Menu button, in the "Image quality" item, select "JPEG high quality". If you know how to work with RAW, you can use this format.

4. Turn on A (Aperture Priority) mode. If you know how to work with manual mode M, you can use it. Open the camera aperture to the maximum value. Everything is simple here: what less number, indicating the diaphragm, the more it is open. In case of whale lens you will most likely have to deal with an aperture value around F5.6.

5. Set the minimum ISO value. This is usually ISO 100 or 200. This will ensure that test shots are clean and free of digital noise.

6. Now - the most important thing! Let's select the focus mode on one point. It may be called "Single-point AF" in the camera menu.

On entry-level cameras (Nikon D3300, Nikon D5500), autofocus area modes are selected through the menu called by the i button. In the corresponding paragraph, you just need to choose the best option.

On advanced Nikon cameras (starting with the Nikon D7200), autofocus area modes are selected as follows: hold down the button combined with the AF / M switch and turn the front control wheel. In the information display, you will see how the focus area modes change.

7. The point is small - download and print a special target on any printer to check the accuracy of focusing.

There are different types of targets, but the proposed option is perhaps the most popular. In principle, you can check the focus, say, using a regular ruler (how it will become clear later), but it is much more convenient to do this on a target.

Checking autofocus

So, the camera is set up, the test target is printed. It's time to act!

The camera is best mounted on a tripod.. Without a tripod, such a check will be extremely inaccurate and indicative.
Provide adequate lighting for shooting. It is best to shoot by the window during the day. You can use a flash (both built-in and external).
Place the target on a flat surface, and position the camera at an angle of 45 degrees to it at such a distance that the target occupies a significant area of the frame.
Choose the center AF point. Focus exactly on the target - on the inscription Focus Here (Focus here). A thick black line with this inscription should be located in your frame strictly perpendicular to the optical axis of the lens.

Take a few shots. Do not use continuous shooting, focus again after each frame. Remember that after focusing, in no case should you move the camera, change the shooting distance. If you are using a zoom lens, test it at different focal lengths. I note that it is most convenient to conduct testing from a focal length of around 50 mm, and you can start with it.
View received footage. To see them better, do it not on the camera screen, but on the computer monitor. If you see a systematic focus error on all frames, then most likely you have detected back or front focus. It's not worth worrying about this. This is easily fixed in the service center. And owners of advanced cameras (starting with the Nikon D7200) can adjust the focus directly from the camera menu

Precise autofocus performance. Back- and front-focus are absent.

Front Focus: Sharpness was closer than expected.

Fine tuning autofocus

Advanced cameras (starting with the Nikon D7200) have an autofocus fine-tuning feature that will help you get rid of problems with back and front focus, fine-tune the focus system. The convenience of the function is also in the fact that the device remembers the settings separately for each specific lens. Let's say a bug shows up with one of your lenses. You can make adjustments specifically for him, and they will not affect the work with other lenses. When you attach a lens to the camera, it will automatically apply the appropriate corrections for it. Please note that autofocus fine-tuning will only work when focusing through the camera's viewfinder (with phase focusing). When working through the Live View screen, it is not activated, and there will be no need for it, because in this case a contrast type of autofocus is used, which eliminates problems with back and front focus.

Let's see how the autofocus fine-tuning feature works.

Let's find the item "Fine tuning AF" in the camera menu.

Autofocus Fine Tuning Menu in Nikon D810

The first item on this menu, as the name suggests, allows you to enable or disable this feature.

The default menu item allows you to enter the AF fine adjustment value to be applied when no separate adjustment has been created for the lens attached to the camera. It makes sense to make such a setting if the device systematically makes the same mistake with focusing with all lenses.

The last item - "Display saved values" - allows you to see all the corrections stored on the camera for various lenses. You can make an autofocus setting for each lens you have, and it will be saved on the camera. Through this menu you can see all the adjustments you have made. In the same paragraph, you can delete unnecessary settings. It is possible to enter your own ID (from 00 to 99) for each lens. This is useful if, for example, you are using two identical lenses and you have made an autofocus setting for each of them. Such an identifier will help you distinguish them from each other in this menu.

The most important menu item is "Saved value". It shows which fine tuning value is currently applied and gives you the option to change it. Once in this menu item, you can fine-tune the operation of AF with a specific lens (installed on the device at the moment).

Fine tuning autofocus

To make the necessary adjustments, you first need to take and examine test shots (as described above). If on the test frames the focus is behind the object, you need to make a negative correction, and if in front of the object - a positive one.

The difficulty lies in determining the desired amount of adjustment. Find optimal value can be done with test frames. After making the approximate settings, just take a series of test shots and check if the lens is now exactly in focus. If not, make appropriate corrections.