Beds for tomatoes in open ground. How to make beds in a greenhouse for tomatoes. Growing tomatoes in protected ground

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He put together a box 70 cm wide and 3.5 m long. A layer of about 25-30 cm of soil was poured on top. Okay all watered hot water and covered with old frames. So that there were no cracks, she covered the top with a film. The earth warmed up quickly.

Well save the garden plot from flooding.

Approximately in a week, when the temperature of the soil in the garden becomes about 25 ° C, we fill it with fertile soil or a mixture of compost and soil from the site. The layer should be no less than 20-30 cm.

Benefits of managing according to the Mitlider method

I will continue such experiments, the more it allows me to experience a large number of varieties.​

By mid-May, bottles can usually be removed. Seedlings grow strong, stocky. I plant monthly seedlings in early June. Surprisingly, all the seedlings are already with buds. The bushes are not elongated, strong, healthy. Adapted to weather conditions. Because from mid-May, only at night I cover with frames. And a week and a half before landing and at night I leave it open. Naturally, I watch the nighttime temperatures. If it's too low, then I cover it.

Vegetable growing is a great science! The experience of gardeners using the Mitliderad method and experimenting with vegetable crops gives a generous harvest at a time when many gardeners do not even think about the harvest.

Tomatoes are a very capricious vegetable, their cultivation has its own characteristics. Tomatoes are poorly adapted to growth in wet weather, susceptible to late blight. When planted according to the Mitlider, tomatoes give high yields. Modern vegetable growing makes it possible to use hybrids and varieties for harvesting.

The device of a narrow bed in the garden

In narrow beds, the seeds are planted to a shallower depth: from 1 to 6 cm, depending on the type of plant. In small seeds, germination is checked before sowing. Seedlings are planted in rows, along the sides.

The ridges are made 45 cm wide. The aisles between the beds are from 90 to 105 cm. After harvesting, vegetable waste is placed in the aisles. The technology of vegetable growing on narrow beds requires their strict horizontal arrangement, you can arrange the beds parallel to each other.

If a garden is not a luxury, but a means of subsistence, narrow beds are the best way for planting vegetables. The width of the beds is 45 cm, and the distance between them is 90 cm. There are no weeds between the rows; vegetables ripen on time, are not susceptible to disease. Seedlings are fed on time and in a balanced way with all the necessary elements. Vegetables grown in narrow beds are provided with root nutrition; there is no oppression of some cultures by others.

Every year, amateur vegetable growers plant many varieties of domestic and foreign vegetables in their backyards. Farming is a fascinating, creative process. Its results are aimed at obtaining a sufficient amount of vegetables from a small area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe plot. The Mitlider method came to the aid of gardeners, spreading throughout all regions and delighting people with good harvests of vegetables.

Four 5-liter bottles of water entered the garden in width, 11 in length. I cut off the bottom of the bottles with a knife, made holes under each, into which I sowed five to eight tomato seeds.

The introduction of nutrient mixtures into the soil according to the Mitlider method

Thanks to all these advantages of warm beds, their use will help you get more early harvest.​

We install borders along the beds to keep organic matter within the warm beds and protect it from weeds.

After planting in the OG, the seedlings literally stand “sad” for only one day. Without any shelter and cover from the sun. The rest of the care is as usual.

I often get asked questions about a warm bed. Therefore, despite the fact that such an article already exists, I decided to talk about my experience of growing tomato seedlings in a warm garden.

Growing tomatoes in the garden early varieties. Growing seedlings begin in early April. Tomato seedlings are planted on the ridges in May. Produce film cover. Without shelter, seeds are sown from April 15. At mid-season varieties seeds are sown in March. Tomatoes different varieties planted at different distances from each other. It depends on the presence of stems in the bush (one, two or three) and the number of stepchildren.

How to fertilize before planting according to the Mitlider

When planting cabbage, no additional fertilizer is required in the wells.

The length of narrow ridges does not matter. Vegetable growing can be carried out on 9-meter beds, and the beds bigger size use for large farms of 10-20 acres. It is appropriate to create a set of beds of different lengths from 2 to 10 meters. Most often, the entire plot is divided into 4.5-meter beds.

I drew a diagram with the names of the planted varieties in a notebook. Seeds sown dry, then watered warm water. I covered the wells with bottles, window frames on top, and then covered everything with lutrasil.

- Hello, my beloved hostess. I subscribe to the newspaper for only six months (since July last year).​

When arranging a warm bed, you can not use paper from printed publications (newspapers and magazines), as well as tops of tomatoes, potatoes and cucumbers.

For the season - three crops of cabbage

Do you know that garden beds are warm? Beds made according to the principle of a compost heap are called warm, because when the used organic matter decomposes, heat is released, therefore the temperature in such a bed is 2-3 ° C higher than the temperature of the surrounding soil, which means that plants can be planted on it early and fruits will ripen on them earlier too. To create warm beds, you need to work hard once, and then just maintain their fertility by simply stacking any organic garbage from the yard inside the beds throughout the season.​

My bed is 1 meter wide and 3 meters long. It is five holes wide and fifteen long. Thus, 75 varieties are placed in the ridge. Each variety, four, five bushes. Minimum 300 seedling roots.​

I have been preparing the beds since autumn. But if you didn't make it, no problem. And spring will help you grow seedlings without any hassle. We have prepared high boxes, which should fit 30 cm of organic matter, 20 cm of soil. And, accordingly, a place for seedling height.

Irrigation technology for cabbage. Pest control

The harvest of tomatoes depends on the light. The less light, the less fruit. A tomato bush is formed into one, two or three stems. One stem in varieties Malyshok, Yarilo. Single stem tomatoes are pruned during the growing season. All stepchildren are removed weekly. After the formation of the fruit, remove all the leaves that cover them. The apical shoot is removed on August 1.

During the season on a narrow bed is grown: early cabbage 2 - 3 varieties, medium - 2 varieties, late - 4 varieties. Seedlings of cabbage are prepared in advance. Seeds are sown in pots, the ground is fertilized with Zeolorg or other fertilizer. You can fertilize with ash and lime - fluff. 2 days before sowing seeds, the earth is watered with a solution of potassium permanganate. The seedlings are watered once with humate: after a month, the seedlings are planted on a narrow bed, in two rows, along the sides. It is possible to plant seedlings in a checkerboard pattern. At Chinese cabbage with good lighting, the distance between plants in a row is 10 cm, with insufficient lighting - 30 cm; at early cabbage- 30 to 35 cm. Compliance with these intervals is necessary when meeting other requirements for the Mitlider method. When planting cabbage seedlings, no additional fertilizers are required in the holes. The roots should not come into contact with wet soil, otherwise they will be injured and die.

The ridges are marked out after cleaning the site, using a set of pegs and a metal rail. Work must be carried out in the autumn: if you mark the beds in advance, then in the spring the vegetables will be planted much faster.

The Mitlider method allows you to plan narrow beds on any soil. The peculiarity of the vegetable garden on erosive soils is the blowing of the upper layer by the winds. On acidic soils, the addition of calcium in the form of dolomite flour or chalk. In alkaline soils, it is added in the form of gypsum. You can not place beds in shaded areas, lowlands and slopes.

Growing tomatoes in protected ground

It is based on a process that involves growing plants in narrow beds.

But during this time I fell in love with her, probably for life. Because I have never met such an interesting and versatile newspaper. Everything in it is for the people, not for the oligarchs. And you can laugh and cry, and there are many benefits in each number. And since now for me, an avid gardener, the off season, I decided to write to you. And I will be pleased if you print the letter and it is useful for readers to learn about the experience of other gardeners.

These beds are well suited for planting:

You need to start creating a warm bed in the fall. The sequence of its creation is as follows:

Cucumbers love warmth and light.

Last year I did not have enough warm ridges. I just sowed some of the seeds in a box. The soil was well filled with organic matter. There weren't enough bottles. She covered the box only with frames and lutrasil. Seedlings have grown, survived all the cold snaps. From the cold, at times it turned just purple. The buds were not on all the bushes. But even so, she pleased me with an excellent harvest.

I am making the height of a five-liter bottle. It turns out about 80 cm. Above the ground I upholster with a dense film or cloth to prevent cold air from entering the ridge. At the organic level, such gaps are not terrible. On the contrary, air access allows organics to burn more actively.

Vegetables are subjected to standard agrotechnical care: fertilizing and watering. Additionally, fertilizers are applied during budding (wood ash 50 g) and fruit formation (magnesium sulfate 25 g/m). When budding, it is necessary to treat the tomatoes with the Epin preparation (10 drops are dissolved in 1 liter of water). To relieve stress in plants with the same drug, additional treatment is carried out after a week.

After 2 weeks, the first top dressing is done (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of green manure, 1 tablespoon of urea). The technology for growing early cabbage recommends a second top dressing after 14 days (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of slurry, 1 tbsp of ash). The third top dressing is when the heads are tied (for 10 liters of water - 1 liter of green slurry, 2 tbsp. Ash).

The technology for growing vegetables provides for a good outflow of water at the site of the planned beds. In the lowland, they raise the entire area under the garden by 20 cm, use the soil and pour it in sufficient quantities. Intrasoil flooring under the ground is provided. The top layer of soil is removed, a layer of wood waste is laid, 20-30 cm thick.

ParnikiTeplicy.com

My warm garden bed

Productivity is growing from year to year, but isn’t it worth giving all your strength to your favorite business?

I didn't open the beds for almost a week. She took off lutrasil only for a day, and in the evening she wrapped the garden bed again.

I want to tell you about a warm bed. Since childhood, I remember how my mother made warm beds and planted tomatoes in them. True, I did not understand this then, thinking that she was doing a lot of unnecessary work, changing the “stuffing” of these beds every year. And her varieties were not elite (now you can buy any), but folk, which she sowed from year to year.

Any vegetables (cucumbers, tomatoes, zucchini, etc.);

We dig a trench in a sunny place: depth 40-50cm, width not less than 40cm, length - arbitrary or we make a box from any material of the same dimensions.

The smallest bushes, I left in the garden for permanent place residence, and did not regret it. The harvest was no worse than that given by the same small bushes planted in an empty place in a pepper greenhouse.

Since autumn, we fill the ridge with organic matter. As soon as the sun warms and the snow melts, I pour hot water over the organics. And I cover the ridge with frames. The organics begin to float, I add a layer of soil. I also shed the soil. And again I cover with frames.

Seedlings at the age of 28 days are planted on a narrow bed. On the early dates it is covered with foil. Landing pattern along the side, in one row.​

On the day of sowing, fertilizers are applied, which include: lime fertilizer with boron (mixture 1) and a mixture containing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (mixture 2).

Growing vegetables is impossible without a source of water for irrigation. The plot under the beds should be horizontal. This is one of the main conditions when planning it for growing vegetables.​

Vegetables are grown both in narrow beds and in boxes.

By the end of April, all the seeds had sprouted, and only then did I unscrew the caps on the bottles. With the advent of heat, I gradually began to “undress” the bed.

Many years have passed, and I also became an avid gardener.

berry bushes;

We fill the trench or box: we lay branches alternately at the bottom, then - rotten pieces of wood, on top - organic matter, always alternating or evenly mixing carbon and nitrogen layers. You can put paper, dry leaves, crushed sunflower stalks, sawdust, natural fabrics, etc. into the carbon layer, and grass, potato peelings, food waste, manure into the nitrogen layer. You can use everything that will rot and give heat, while pouring everything with lime or ash.

This method of growing seedlings was inspired by my mother. This is how she grows the earliest, unpretentious varieties. Even the later ones gave me two, three brushes of fruits. Of course, the latter have to be shot green. But in the conditions of our climate, this method of collection has to be addressed in any case. One hundred bushes of seedlings grown in the house, after planting, came under frost. Even they, on stepchildren, gave a harvest.

As soon as the soil temperature becomes above 10 degrees, I sow tomatoes. For the third year now, in our climate (middle Urals), this is April 20-21.​

Vegetable growing recommends growing cucumbers in compliance with special rules. Cucumbers do not bear fruit at a temperature of + 10 ° C, plants do not tolerate low temperatures during the night hours. Sensitive to fungal attack. Cucumbers have their own strategy for growing in narrow beds. use hybrid varieties: Parker F1, Murom 36 and others. Pollination and flowering types are taken into account. Cucumber seeds Parker F1 are processed with microelements, are not susceptible to diseases.​

tomat-pomidor.com

Warm bed - how to do it?

From cabbage fleas, plants must be sprayed with a solution of vinegar (1 tablespoon per 1 liter of water). Against aphids, solutions of horseradish and burdock are used. When the heads are tied, the cabbage is treated with a solution boric acid(1 spoon per bucket of water). Kohlrabi is planted shallow, up to the root collar. In cabbage, as it grows, the leaves close in the garden, they cannot be removed, otherwise a head will not form.

How to make a warm bed with your own hands?

Having created a ridge with the help of a cord and pegs, from 100 to 200 g of lime mixture per linear meter is applied to it; a slightly smaller amount of a mixture with nitrogen, phosphate and potassium (50 g per 1 m 2 of the ridge) is applied before sowing. It is poured evenly over the entire surface, covered with a mixture of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium on top. All soil is dug up and carefully leveled. The bed is formed by a rake, sides are created; they can be increased to a height of 8-10 cm due to the soil from the passages. In autumn, fertilizers are not applied to the soil; she only digs, clods do not break.

1. Growing vegetables provides for their nutrition, containing all the necessary trace elements. In narrow beds, vegetables are provided with all the necessary nutrition and contain the whole complex of vitamins, and the level of nitrate is minimized by eliminating the use of pesticides. There are also few toxic substances in the root system.
2. Dr. Mitlider's technology is convenient and reliable. The garden area for planting is 1.5 acres. The cultivation technology provides for the availability of water for irrigation and good lighting. Grown vegetables are always of excellent quality, suitable for long-term storage, environmentally friendly. The technology of farming according to this method is simple. gardener, with minimum cost forces and means, will receive an ideal, well-groomed garden.
3. In early June, planted seedlings in open ground. By that time, almost all seedlings were with buds and flowers. But most of the seedling bushes grown at home were without even a hint of buds.
4. And last year, due to the fact that there was no space on my windowsills to accommodate all the seedlings, I decided to repeat my mother's experience.
5. fruit trees.
6. We water the last layer (organic matter) with compost biological products, such as Siyaniye or Baikal.
7. I sowed some of the tomatoes immediately in the OG, in order to continue the experiment. They were sown in the same way as in the beds. Sowed on May 8 and covered only with bottles. Germination certainly stretched. The last rose by the beginning of June. But the bulk showed shoots by May 20.
8. I make holes with the diameter of the same bottle that will be installed above the hole. Lightly compact, put 4-5 seeds in each, pour warm water with manganese. Slightly pink solution. And I sprinkle with soil on top, about 2 cm. I also compact it. In order for the bushes “with a hat” not to sprout.

What can be planted in warm beds?

Seedlings are planted on a narrow bed at the age of 28 days. In the early stages, it is covered with films. Landing pattern along the side, in one row. The distance between the seedling bushes depends on how the plant will grow: on a trellis or spread. If the plate is placed vertically, then the distance is 17.5 cm. Seeds should be planted often (5-6 cm). Cucumbers on trellises are grown much more often than in spreading. The plant is well lit, but there is a significant drawback: when it gets cold, the cucumber bush on the trellis is not protected by anything. When placed in a spread, the plant can be covered with a film.

• Cabbage is watered daily, at the rate of 5-10 liters of water per 1 linear meter. m. It is necessary to water the plants on the leaves. Since July, watering has not been done in the evening: powdery mildew may appear. Poured with cold water, you can not pour water on the paths. Watering should be plentiful and timely. Cabbage quickly evaporates the liquid, it needs a lot of water.
• Vegetable growing in narrow beds allows you to grow early vegetables: seedling bushes are prepared in advance
• Vegetables in narrow beds are able to carry out a self-cleaning process, removing toxic substances from the roots due to the activation of the photosynthesis process. When growing plants, the processing of nitrates occurs in best conditions, due to sufficient watering, proper nutrition. Vegetables in narrow beds contain an acceptable amount of nitrates and are superior in organoleptic properties to those grown in open ground.​

Advantages of warm beds

• The Mitlider method involves digging the beds and does not affect other areas. There is no loosening of the soil, weeds appear occasionally on the beds. Grown vegetables are stored in pre-prepared storage facilities.​
• ​Taken from: http://hozvo.ru/news/vegetable_garden/delaem_tepluyu_gryadku_dlya_pomidorov/​
• How surprised I was that the same variety, sown both in the house (for seedlings) and in the beds (with seeds), bore fruit much more abundantly from the "bed" seedlings. And not only was it not inferior to home seedlings in terms of growth and fruiting time, but even vice versa.

The soil warms up earlier;

womanadvice.ru

We make a warm bed for tomatoes

We lightly tamp all layers.

A box bed is a great option for those who want to get a rich harvest and at the same time not spend all their energy on caring for the plant. Let's talk about growing tomatoes in such unusual beds.

We at SeDeK often experiment with different growing methods. vegetable crops. After all, it is important not only to breed a variety, but also to see how it will "behave" in real conditions that gardeners from different regions countries.

So, in addition to the greenhouse complex for testing varieties and hybrids, we have located ordinary ridge-boxes on the test site, which are widely used in many summer cottages. After all, not everyone has the opportunity to build a high greenhouse.

And during the tests, we really liked this method, because. he annually confirmed his high efficiency. We grow almost all crops in boxes, but Special attention I would like to give tomato as one of the favorite vegetable crops in our country.

Features of growing crops in ridge-boxes

To obtain good harvest on such ridges, it is important to consider several key points.

The location of the beds

On a flat area, the location of the ridge-boxes does not really matter. But on the slope they should be placed in the form of terraces perpendicular to the direction of the slope. Remember, the surface of each such bed must be strictly horizontal.

Garden preparation

The easiest way to use for edging beds-boxes wooden planks. They are easy to make, it is easier to install shelters on them, they look neat and well fence off the beds from the aisles. The ideal size of the ridge, which has developed over several years of testing, is 120 × 600 cm. Such a ridge is easy to "serve" and it is universal for different crops. In addition, weeds simply do not take root on narrow ridges, and from the row spacing it is quite easy to remove them with an ordinary chopper or flat cutter.

Walkways between beds

They must be wide so that it is easy to walk on them with a wheelbarrow and buckets, and also to drag a watering hose. The passages between the ridges-boxes are never dug up. This is one of the main pleasant features of the method, which saves time and effort. Plus, the uncultivated area provides additional space for the development of the root system of plants.

The soil

Before installing the boxes, the site is dug up and leveled. Features of soil cultivation require a separate explanation. AT in general terms it looks like this: fertile garden soil is mixed with compost, peat and river sand, phosphate and potash fertilizers are applied. If necessary, deoxidizing materials are added, for example, dolomite flour.

Installation of arcs

Arcs are an integral part of the beds-boxes. They serve as a support for covering material (for example, lutrasil), which is necessary at all stages of growing tomatoes: in spring, when you need to let the soil warm up and retain moisture, and in summer, when you need to protect plants from adverse weather conditions.

Any material at hand can be used as arcs: flexible hazel branches, ordinary slats. We prefer iron arcs made of thick wire rod or reinforcement.

In conditions middle lane in the second half of summer, it is recommended to cover the tomatoes with non-woven material. This will help protect plants from late blight.

The non-woven fabric is fixed on two wooden planks fixed along the boxes along the tops of the arcs. Thus, lutrasil can be easily raised and lowered, depending on weather conditions. Additional slats attached at the top of the arcs along the box make it convenient to tie plants.

Care of beds-boxes

At the end of autumn, after harvesting and all plant residues, it is necessary to rake the soil from the walls of the bed to the center so that the box does not deform in frost. In the next season, you can leave the same boxes, treating them with a special preparation that prevents rotting. They will look like new! If you wish, you can paint or even paint them, if this does not contradict the design of your site.

Tomato seedlings intended for growing in ridges-boxes can be planted already in the second half of May.

Plants are planted in 2 rows at a distance of 30-60 cm from each other. The interval depends not only on the compactness of the variety, but also on your capabilities: if you cannot often appear on the site in order to pinch the plants in time, then you should leave more space between them.

Between the rows in the ridge-boxes, at least 80 cm recede. Such wide aisles are needed for effective loosening and hilling of plants. And the boundary between the rows will greatly facilitate watering.

Varieties of tomatoes for growing in ridge-boxes

Not all varieties and hybrids of tomatoes are suitable for this method of growing. First of all, they must be early ripe and resistant to temperature changes. In addition, tomatoes should be determinate (i.e. with limited growth) so that the bushes can be easily tied to stakes, they do not block sunlight from each other and the space between them is well ventilated. Among the standard varieties stand out Flash, Betalux, SeDeK Summer Resident, Pink Leader .

Ultra-early variety Flash gives a harvest in 95 days after shoots. Due to the shortened internodes, a low bush is literally strewn with delicious fruits weighing 80-120 g. The plant is quite compact, which makes it possible to thicken the plantings and increase the yield from square meter. On such a bed there will be no place not only for diseases, but also for weeds.

The early ripe variety Dachnik SeDeK is distinguished by a thick powerful stem that reliably holds the weight of the fruit. Due to its high resistance to various stresses, adverse weather conditions, as well as good fruit set in cool weather, this variety is very popular in all regions of Russia.

In bush varieties such as Amur dawn, Gardener's dream, Irina SeDeK, Golden, unlike standard bushes, bushes are more powerful. Variety Amur dawn the fruits are pink (they are considered especially tasty and sweet) and quite large. And this is with a plant height of only 60-65 cm! These tomatoes are ideal for early, most fragrant country salads. "Trump" tomato variety Gold - Lemon yellow skin and flesh rich in beta-carotene.

Non-stepping tomatoes

Very interesting varieties of the new series " NEPAS", which means non-stepchildren. But you should not take this characteristic literally. Of course, these plants give stepchildren, but do not grow too much, like bush varieties. You can pinch the plants if you want to get larger fruits.

Without stepsoning, the ripening time of the fruits will increase, but their number on the bush will increase.

There are 14 varieties in the NEPAS series, each of which has its own distinguishing feature. For cooking salads and fresh use choose varieties:

• Nepas,
• Nepas 2(Crimson),
• Nepas 3(Pink),
• Nepas 7(Giant) with fruits weighing 150-200 g,
• Nepas 12 ( Large) with fruits weighing 100-150 g,
• Nepas 14(Sugar) with very tasty "sugar" fruits.

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Boris Andreev 10/17/2014 | 28304

Each culture has its own conditions for good growth and fruiting. Learn how to prepare your tomato beds to grow a good crop.

The first rule is to start preparing the garden in advance, in the fall. To begin with, we choose a sunny place (tomatoes love heat), these are the southern slopes and sides of the site. You should also provide protection from cold northern winds.

The best tomato planting scheme is a two-row tape. This means the distance between plants in a row is 30-60 cm (depending on the variety) and between rows is 80 cm. That is, the width of the beds should be 150-160 cm, the length is up to you.

Good precursors for tomato are about cucumbers, cabbage, onions, pumpkin, potatoes, carrots, zucchini. Crops after which you can not plant a tomato are all nightshade: tomatoes, eggplant, peppers, physalis.

Tomatoes are especially unpretentious in relation to soils. It is especially well possible to grow a rich crop on loamy and sandy loamy soils. But it is important to take into account the acidity of the soil, it should be pH 6-6.7. This means that tomatoes need soil with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. Determine soil acidity can be on weeds on it. If rosemary, creeping buttercup, sorrel grow abundantly on your site, then on the site acidic soils. Indicator papers are also on sale, with their help you can determine the acid content in the soil.

acidic soils needs to be processed ash every 2 years or lime every 4 years. For ash processing, it is necessary to distribute about 2 cups of ash per 1 sq.m of soil and close it with a rake before autumn. When processing with limestone, 200 g of limestone is needed per 1 sq.m.

To prepare the beds for tomatoes in the fall, up to 1-5 kg ​​of humus, 2 tbsp. phosphoric and 1-2 tbsp. potash fertilizers, a nitrogen fertilizers(1 tablespoon) in the spring.

Tomatoes are very susceptible fungal diseases, especially when waterlogged. Therefore, it is desirable to process a bed for tomatoes antifungal drugs. It is not recommended to apply fresh manure to the soil, as this can lead to an increase in disease powdery mildew and fattening of the plant.

The mechanical preparation of the beds for tomatoes consists in a deep (up to 25 cm) autumn digging the soil held in October. At the same time, they do not break the earth, but leave large clods before winter. This will help the retention of snow, and as a result - a good moisture charge and the rapid "ripening" of the soil in the spring.

In the spring, it is enough to dig a little, break up the clods with a rake, level the surface for easy marking and planting. Then we mark the surface according to the scheme described above. We prepare the holes and you can plant seedlings.

You also need to make sure that your plants do not get burned in the scorching spring or summer sun. To do this, you need to build an "umbrella" over the entire garden. It is best to use wooden posts, they need to be hammered into the ground at the corners of the beds and along its long sides after 1 m. You choose the height yourself. A wire should be run along the top of the posts, and a non-woven material should be attached to it with clothespins. This design is made quickly and easy to operate (if necessary, remove the material). The bed is ready.

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Every gardener, sowing vegetable seeds for seedlings, dreams of a good harvest of his favorite tomatoes. But in order to get it, you need to try hard: take care of young plants, water them, feed them, and also pay due attention to the choice of soil. It is the soil for tomato seedlings that plays a leading role in the qualitative development of young seedlings. And only then the turn will come to worry about other nuances: the intensity of watering, the rules for caring for the bushes, as well as top dressing or tying.

What kind of soil is unsuitable

It is on what soil is chosen for tomato seedlings that not only the quantity, but also the quality of the future harvest will depend. The soil for tomatoes should be loose, light, well pass air and moisture.

Speaking about which soil is absolutely unsuitable for growing tomatoes, there are several main limitations:

• the land in the tomato garden should not be oversaturated with various fertilizers;
• high acidity of the soil is not allowed;
• the soil under your tomatoes should not be overdried or, conversely, overly flooded with water;
• tomatoes do not like cold soil, as well as those soil mixtures that do not warm up well and do not let air through.

When planning to grow tomatoes, do not forget that soil preparation - milestone not only for young seedlings, but also for adult plants.

Video “Soil preparation”

From the video you will learn how to properly prepare the soil for planting tomatoes.

Soil for seedlings

The best soil for growing tomato seedlings is land on which there are several recent years nothing was grown or ordinary nettles grew. If it is not possible to get such soil, you can use the soil from the beds on which zucchini, pumpkins, carrots or cabbage grew. It is important that the plants do not suffer from late blight. In extreme cases, ordinary forest land is suitable.

Soil preparation for seedlings

Preparing the soil in a greenhouse for tomatoes in the spring involves a whole range of activities, which as a result should lead to the following set of characteristics:

By the way, today in agricultural stores specially prepared soil mixtures are sold, ideal for growing tomatoes. And if it is hardly possible to acquire a sufficient amount of such land for adult plants, then you are quite capable of providing seedlings of tomatoes with it.

But if you do not want to spend extra money on purchasing soil, you can prepare the right mixture yourself. To do this, you will need: peat and turf, taken in a ratio of 3 to 1, sawdust, mullein and peat (1: 3), sand mixed in equal proportions with peat, as well as soil, manure and ash (3: 3) are added to these components. one).
Such a composition is perfect for your tomatoes, they will be able to receive all the necessary nutritional components, fully develop, in order, in the end, to please you with a generous harvest.

Soil preparation for seedlings

In order for the seedlings to feel good and develop quickly, it is not enough to prepare a suitable soil mixture, it must also be properly prepared. To do this, you have to go through several stages:

As soon as the earth finally warms up, compost, urea or manure must be added to it.

You can add a small handful to the mixture wood ash and a little superphosphate, according to the recommendations on the product package.

The next step is treatment with a weak solution of potassium permanganate, at the rate of 3 grams of crystalline powder per 10 liters of water. Or you can refuse this procedure and just steam the earth - for this, a dense fabric is pulled over a large saucepan, the earth is poured into it and held over boiling water for half an hour.

You can add lime - 15 grams will be enough for every kilogram of soil.

Regardless of which soil you use - bought from a specialized store or prepared on your own, it is better to complete all the preparatory stages in the fall so that winter months the ground could freeze completely.

Be extremely careful when adding nutrients or organic and mineral fertilizers: if you do not have enough experience, it is better to read the instructions. Excess fertilizer will not only not help the tomatoes, but can seriously harm young plants, in particular, plants can begin to actively grow green mass without wasting energy on fruit set.

Growing tomatoes is far from the most difficult task for domestic gardeners, this crop is well known to our farmers for a long time and consistently gives us rich harvests. The main thing is to adhere to the basic rules of agricultural technology and take care of your beds with love. Success will surely overtake you!

Video “Soil for seedlings”

From the video you will learn how to prepare the soil for seedlings.

How to grow tomatoes in warm beds.

At the beginning of the year, I planned:

1. Make three warm, high beds 80 cm wide and, accordingly, increase the width of the paths, because in the spring it is not very convenient to walk in big shoes, I stumble all the time.
2. Grow two tomato trees outdoors.
3. Find seeds and grow medicinal tomatoes in black, purple, brown and blue.

Thoughts about this made my head spin so much that warm beds, tomato trees and blue tomatoes dreamed of me at night. I constantly thought: how to do it all better and more correctly.

Warm beds

Started setting them up. in early spring. But life made its own adjustments to my plans: there was a catastrophic lack of fertile land for the upper layer. So there were only two.

To do this, I reduced the already existing beds 7 m long to 80 cm and, without digging, covered them with newspapers, sawdust, fallen leaves, and dry grass. The height of the beds was 40 cm. Next, it was necessary to pour a layer of compost, but I didn’t have compost, so I covered the beds with a layer of earth 15-20 cm. I took the earth from the greenhouse and from the paths. The walkways are spacious and very comfortable. I covered them with fresh sawdust so that they slowly overheated and “aged”. By the time of planting, the earth in the beds had settled to a level of 30 cm.

A lot has been written about the benefits of warm beds, I will not repeat myself. In short: a complete delight! I would grow up there! Tomatoes in these beds all summer looked like some kind of important gentlemen, happy with life. No bad weather, heat and rains affected their proud appearance, strong stature, emerald foliage lace and a rich harvest. Large-fruited varieties, for example, the Canadian giant and the Black giant, gave such large fruits that they surprised me and shocked the neighbors. And everyone unanimously said that tomatoes grow better in open ground than in a greenhouse.

Three times during the summer she sprayed them from phytophthora for prevention, so the disease bypassed them. This was facilitated by the mulching of the beds.

I don’t even discuss it: I mulch automatically.

On the second bed I planted cabbage with celery. The result is excellent.

Summing up, I want to say that high warm beds are the future of my garden. I will continue in the same direction.

Healing tomatoes

In winter, without wasting time, I began to look for the seeds of the tomatoes I needed: I bought some in garden shop, some of the seeds were sent by amateur gardeners from different parts of Russia (our magazine helped), three varieties were ordered from China. I really love to grow and eat tomatoes, but it turns out that they can also be treated and prevented. Do you know the secret? The fact is that dark-colored tomatoes contain a large amount of anthocyanin pigment, which is a powerful antioxidant. The use of tomatoes of this color reduces the likelihood of developing cancer, cardiovascular diseases, improves intracellular metabolism in the human body. In total, I got 18 new interesting varieties. Briefly about them.

Large-fruited: Cherokee chocolate - dark brown, Time black reefets (USA) - maroon, Sugar brown, Chocolate miracle and Black giant - red-brown.

Medium fruits: Black Star, Black Prince, Viagra - red-brown, Kumato (Spain) - brown, Purple pumpkin - dark purple-red.

Small-fruited: Blue Blue (USA) - dark blue, dark red when ripe, Black Bunch (Japan), Indigo Rose (USA), Blueberries - blue-black, De Barao Black, Black Cream - brown.

And the smallest ones: Purple smog and the Dancing Smurfs are brown-blue.

My relatives and neighbors came to marvel at the unusual color tomatoes, but, of course, no matter how exotic and healthy they were, the traditional red and pink tomatoes did not go unnoticed. In general, tomatoes were successfully grown and tested by everyone. Idea #2 has been brought to life.

Tomato trees and their cultivation

Surprisingly, the seeds tomato tree Octopus F1 and Octopus F1 Cream I quickly found it in a garden store. Why these particular varieties? Because it is written on the bags that these hybrids have a huge growth energy, high shoot-forming ability, branched root system and disease resistance. Octopus F1 is one of the best indeterminate varieties. Inflorescences are carpal, brushes - too, with 5-6 even, round, very dense red fruits in each. Fruit weight up to 160 g. The size of each tomato is the size of a fist. A Octopus F1 Cream - small-fruited, elongated, sweet, carpal, cherry-colored and very productive.

How it was

I started preparing for growing tomato trees by sewing from dense black polyethylene film two bags: height 80 cm, width 30 cm. At the bottom in the bags I made several holes with a fork to drain excess moisture, opened them and rolled the film from top to bottom, leaving a height of 10 cm. I filled the bags with ready-made universal soil for seedlings and put them on large round plates. In early February, I watered the ground in bags and planted two tomato seeds in each bag to a depth of 0.5 cm. Watered the earth again. I put a transparent bag on top and put it in a warm place. After 4 days, seedlings appeared. Then I took off the transparent bags and put the seedlings on the windowsill.

As soon as the seedlings grew by 10 cm, I left one strong plant in each bag and cut off the two lower leaves on each plant with scissors, leaving 2 cm stumps. After 2 hours, the surface of the cuts dried up, and I poured soil to the first lower leaf , filling up the stem and hemp. Polila. I repeated this operation many times. The package slowly unfolded and lifted higher and higher, filling it with earth. The plants grew very quickly - in fact, the growth energy of these hybrids is amazing.

The stem grew fat before our eyes, the leaves became wide, dark green, large. In April, stepchildren and flower brushes began to appear on the plant. I regularly removed them, since my main task is to create a strong root system.

Since I used nutrient soil for seedlings, no fertilizing was needed. Then, because of their instability, the packages with plants had to be placed in large buckets. And so, two buckets stood in my loggia, and on May 1, we transported our trees 1 m high to the garden and put them in a greenhouse.

I watered the plants once every three days. It's time to make two boxes for future trees. My son and I knocked down 4 shields from old boards and connected them - we got two boxes. One was placed near a pear, the second near an apple tree: I hoped that the tomato tree would cover the mountain of boards, since we were changing the entire fence and building a garage.

And on one of the fine days we carried the trees in boxes into the open air.

Putting the seedling on the ground, she cut it with a knife and carefully removed the black bag in which it grew, and covered the free space between the seedling and the “layer cake” box: a layer of weeds, leaves, a layer of earth. But again the problem with the land: not enough! Topped with mowed grass and foliage. The height of the above-ground part of the tree at that moment was already 100 cm, and the underground part was 80 cm. From that moment on, I no longer cut the leaves, and never stepped on, did not remove the flower brushes.

Forest of tomato trees

When landing in place of the Sprut F1 hybrid, it seemed to me that it was standing unevenly, I tried to straighten it, and suddenly the top of the stem with leaves and inflorescences broke. It turns out that despite all the apparent power of the plant, its stem is very fragile. It was horror ... But there is nothing to do. I continued to take care of the plant, watered it and fed it with herbal infusions. The octopus threw out several stepchildren and tied many fruits. The branches have reached the pear, and it has already begun to interfere with the tomato tree. The second hybrid Octopus F1 Slivka was transplanted successfully, without incident.

At the end of July, my tomato trees already surprised everyone who came into my garden: “What kind of trees are these?! Are they perennial? Did they grow from an ordinary small tomato seed?” the neighbors wondered.

And not in vain.

Firstly, Octopus F1 Slivki grew in height by 3.5 m, became taller than the apple tree and continued to grow upwards. Secondly, on many stepchildren there were brushes with cherry, ovoid, dense tomatoes up to 12 pcs. in each. Yes, the species of these plants is very unusual. I really liked this idea, so I will repeat it on next year. I will definitely plant the Octopus and the fruitful, ribbed variety Etuol. But I will choose another place for planting, taking into account the scope of their branches, free from other plants and buildings - tomato trees need space.

sweet tomatoes

What surprised me the most was that there was not a single yellow leaf on the tomato trees! And in the greenhouse and on individual tomatoes in the open field, I already struggled with late blight.

The most important thing to remember when growing tomato trees is that they need a different approach!

Do not pinch them, often water them: in the heat, a bucket of water for each bush, and when the fruits are tied, feed them with infusions of herbs, nutritious compote and be sure to tie them up.

I even had to cut off some of the leaves, as they are very large and covered the fruits. I want to note that in my greenhouse, tall tomatoes grow up to 3 meters or more, but I grow them in 1-2 stems and constantly stepchild. because of limited area and regular pinching, indeterminate varieties in a greenhouse cannot reveal and show their full potential, all their beauty, all that they are capable of. And there is something to show. On August 30, we collected two large buckets of tomatoes from each tomato tree. Despite the cool (only 10° at night) weather, they continued to grow and set fruit.

In general, 2014 is a fruitful year for tomatoes, and I am not at all embarrassed by this abundance, because I have a wonderful and very simple recipe for pickled tomatoes, which is called “Sweet Tomatoes”. They turn out very tasty, both adults and children love them. Of all stocks, Sweet Tomatoes run out first.

Here is the recipe, at the bottom of a sterilized 3-liter jar put a leaf of celery, tomatoes, 10 black peppercorns, 10 pcs. cloves, pour boiling water and leave for 10 minutes, covering the jar with a lid. Then pour the water into a saucepan, add a glass of granulated sugar, 2 tbsp. l. (with a slide) salt, boil, pour 4 tbsp. l. vinegar (9%) and pour boiling marinade into a jar. Cover with lid and roll up. Turn the jar upside down and leave to cool completely.

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How to make warm beds in spring: instructions

Recently, many summer residents have been arranging so-called “warm beds” in their plots - high structures rectangular shape filled with compost, branches, leaves and fertile soil. In the spring, rod arcs are installed above their sides, and the film is stretched. This design allows you to plant seedlings 2-4 weeks earlier than usual. Make warm beds usually in the fall. However, if desired, you can arrange them in the spring. The main thing is not to use fresh manure as a lining layer. So, let's see how to make warm beds in the spring.

Material selection

The sides of such ridges are most often made of edged, fairly thick (20 mm) boards. This material does not conduct heat well and is very easy to process. Sometimes flat slate is also used for the sides. This material is more durable than wood, but it retains heat worse. In addition, when using it, it is imperative to make a rigid frame of thin profile pipe. Otherwise, when weeding or planting seedlings, you can simply cut yourself on the sharp edges of the sides. Both wood and slate have, therefore, both their advantages and disadvantages. What kind of material to make the bumpers is up to the owners of the site to decide. Sometimes a warm bed is also made using more solid elements. For example, brick or stone. It is the most durable and reliable option. However, stone or brick beds will cost, of course, very expensive.

In the case of using slate or wood to support the sides, it will also be necessary to prepare a profile pipe. Arcs can be made from a metal rod with a diameter of 8 mm or from PVC pipes. The film for warm beds is used standard technical polyethylene or designed for greenhouses.

Production of wooden boards

The question of how to make warm beds in the spring comes down, among other things, to right choice their size. The height of the sides of this design is usually 40 cm. In this case, the roots of the plants will receive enough heat. Yes, and it will be more convenient to process the bed. Width experienced gardeners it is not advised to do more than 80 cm. The optimal parameter is 60 cm. The length of the frame can be any.

It is better to collect beds in the spring, when the garden is still too damp, not on the spot, but in a workshop or somewhere in the yard, in a dry place. Wooden sides are made as follows:

• The ends of the beds are assembled. They are made from pieces of a 60 cm board. Two corner pieces from a profile pipe are nailed to each from both edges. In this way, the ends of the boards are made for all the beds.
• Next, sections of the profile pipe with a step of about 2 meters are screwed to the future long sides.
• Then the latter are attached to the corner profile pipes on the end elements.
• The resulting structures are transferred to the garden, installed in the right place and leveled. It is not necessary to dig the ground under the frame or even remove the sod.

The device of a warm bed is continued in the spring by pulling together the opposite profiles of the sides with a rod (in pairs). This will give the structure rigidity. If this is not done, the bed will simply open. In particular, carrots and other root crops are strongly "bred" on the sides.

How to bend a rod correctly

How to make a warm bed in spring is not a question for you now. In order for the seedlings to feel even better in it, the structure in April-May, before the establishment of stable warm weather, will need to be covered with a film. It is stretched on arcs, which can also be made independently. To make such supports neat, you should first make a simple template. To do this, an arc of the required radius and length is drawn on a piece of plywood. Further, along the resulting contour, nails are stuffed (up to half). At the ends of the arc, they should be hammered in two at the same level. Then each rod is simply bent over the nails.

How to make slate sides

In this case, the frame is pre-assembled from a profile pipe. Fastening is usually done with bolts. If the farm has the appropriate equipment, the frame can be welded. The pipe should be painted before fixing the slate.

Since the beds made of this material are very heavy, it is better to transfer the welded frames and install them in the chosen place in the garden. Further, the slate itself is attached to the structural elements (from inside the frame). Fixation in this case is also made with bolts.

How to fill a garden

So, we have figured out how to make warm beds in the spring. Now let's see what you need to fill them with to get the best effect of heating the roots of plants. First of all, the beds should be properly positioned. Usually finished frames are placed in the direction from north to south. So the plants will be illuminated longer: in the morning from the east side, in the afternoon - from above and in the evening - from the west. Warm beds are not installed in the shade. Otherwise, a lot of nitrates are formed in the soil in the first year.

Warm beds are filled (according to the rules of composting) in layers in the following order:

• Drainage is arranged from branches, rotten boards, logs, etc. First, large fractions are laid, then smaller ones.
• Organic matter is laid on the drainage. When laying, carbonaceous (dry foliage, paper, old rags, chopped sunflower stalks) and nitrogenous layers (tops, grass, food waste, rotted manure, etc.) should be alternated. To speed up the decomposition process, it is worth pouring organics with special biological preparations. At the last stage, it should be tamped.

A week later, after the bed warms up well, garden soil is poured into it. In order for the roots of the plants not to burn out, its layer should be at least 25-30 cm. On this, the device of a warm bed in the spring can be considered finished. All other actions can only be aimed at improving its performance.

How to make a greenhouse

Part of one of the warm beds can be covered with a small mini-greenhouse. As a frame for such a design, it is allowed to use a painted metal rod, timber or PVC pipes. The walls, door, window and roof are usually made of polycarbonate. Knocking down the frame of the desired shape will not be difficult. When attaching polycarbonate, certain rules must be observed. This material is able to expand with an increase / decrease in air temperature. Therefore, it should be fixed to the frame using special self-tapping screws with thermal washers. Holes for them are drilled a little larger than the rods of diameter. The device of a warm bed with a greenhouse will allow you to plant seedlings even earlier. It will take a little time to make it.

Structures in the greenhouse

Usually warm beds are arranged right in the open air. However, you can also make them in a greenhouse already installed in the garden. Such structures are assembled from the same materials. The question of how to make warm beds in the spring in a greenhouse is not technologically complicated at all. The method of their manufacture entirely and completely repeats the one discussed above. The only thing is that the beds in this case should not be made too high (20 cm).

The device of a warm bed in the greenhouse will help to get an even earlier harvest. However, since the air temperature inside this room will be higher than outside, it is important to ensure that the roots do not overheat. At a soil temperature of 30-45 degrees, plant growth slows down. It is also worth arranging drip irrigation in the beds.

What plants and how to plant

Since a lot of nitrogen accumulates in the soil of such beds in the first two years, it is not recommended to plant nitrate-accumulating crops during this period. These include greens (dill, onion, lettuce, spinach, etc.), beets and radishes. In the first year, it is best to plant pumpkin, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers or eggplants on a warm bed, that is, plants that require a high content of nutrients in the soil. In the second year, cabbage, celery or lettuce are usually planted in their place.

Many summer residents advise, after harvesting early crops, to sow warm beds with green manure. This will replenish the supply of nutrients. In addition, the soil prepared in this way does not require digging in the spring. All that needs to be done is to deepen the remains of dead green manure by loosening. How to make warm beds in the spring (photos of such structures can be seen on the page), as well as how to plant seedlings on them, you now know. What else needs to be done to facilitate the care of crops and accelerate the ripening of the crop? Read about it below.

Mulching

Most often, sawdust or straw is used for this purpose. It would be very good to close the soil under the plants also with mowed dried grass. First, it should be chopped with a hatchet. Soil microorganisms begin to process the grass from the place of the cut. Therefore, such a litter will decompose faster, while releasing the necessary for horticultural crops carbon dioxide. Mulching in warm beds, among other things, allows the soil to retain moisture longer. Also, a layer of organic matter or a film will prevent the growth of weeds all summer. And this, in turn, will facilitate the care of plants.

flowerbeds

How to make warm beds in the spring, you now know. However, what if there is no material or time for their manufacture, but you want to plant tomatoes early? In this case, you can try to build warm flower beds. Their difference from the beds is primarily a smaller size. As bumpers, you can use, for example, old car tires, set in three rows. Filling in this case is done in the same way. In the middle is to stick a stake or rod. They will support the film in the spring.

Of course, many crops on such flower beds will not fit. But it is quite possible to grow several tomato bushes, cucumbers, onions, pumpkins or zucchini on them.

As you can see, the question of how to make a warm garden bed in spring with your own hands is not particularly difficult. In the presence of quality material and skillful hands prefabricated structures comfortable, reliable and long lasting. Have a good harvest!

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Warm beds - a way to get an early harvest

The special pride of every summer resident is the early harvest grown by him with his own hands. Of course, in order to get an early harvest of vegetables and berries, you can use a greenhouse or greenhouse. But there is an easier and more economical way - to make warm beds with your own hands.

It is better to lay warm beds in September or October - then in the spring there will be more free time for planting. But if for some reason you could not make a warm bed in the fall, you can arrange it in the spring.

How to make warm beds

Start by choosing a place for a warm bed. An open sunny space is best.

The sizes of the beds are different:

• length is arbitrary;
• width 40-60 cm; 60-80 cm and even 100-120 cm;
• height 60-100 cm.

Further, to create a warm bed with your own hands, you can dig a trench at least 40 cm deep. Instead of a trench, you can make a wooden box according to the size of the bed with a height of 60 to 100 cm. There is another option - to make a warm bed combined: it will be partially in the ground, and partly in a box. It should be noted that the heating of warm beds in the box occurs faster than those in the trench.

Next we make the base. If you have peat soils and water quickly leave, then you can lay a layer of sawdust scalded with boiling water on the bottom of the future bed or cover the base with pieces of old unbleached linen or cotton fabrics. Such bedding should be impregnated with a solution of potassium permanganate at the rate of 2 g per 10 liters of water, spending 2 liters of solution per 1 sq.m.

The “bottom” made in this way will help to ensure that water and nutrients will remain longer in the root zone of planted plants.

If, on the contrary, you have dense loamy soils, then you need to make drainage. To do this, branches are laid at the bottom of the trench, then the trench is filled with organic residues. It can be tops, foliage, oat screenings, hay, chaff, straw, manure, paper, or any other organic matter.

Sprinkle all this on top with chalk or wood ash (1.5-2 cups per 1 sq. M).

Organics in a warm bed are laid in layers of 20-25 cm and treated with the biological product "Radiance" or another. As a result of irrigation with preparations, organic matter quickly turns into humus and the plants receive the necessary nutrition and develop properly.

Note that organics are laid in a warm bed for planting cucumbers in the fall, but it is necessary to treat it with the Shining biological product only in the spring.

The next layer of a warm bed is a specially prepared soil (mixture). Recipe for the mixture:

1. 6 buckets of peat, humus or garden soil.
2. 1 bucket of sand.
3. 1 bucket sawdust (optional)

All components are mixed. Then add fertilizer: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of superphosphate, 3 tbsp. tablespoons of wood ash, 1 teaspoon of urea, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate, 1 teaspoon of zinc sulfate, 1.5 teaspoons of boric acid. This recipe is recognized as a classic for fertilizing the soil for warm beds. If you strictly follow the principles of organic farming and do not use chemical fertilizers, then you can limit yourself to applying only ash and other organic fertilizers to the soil.

It turned out a multi-layered and rather high cake for a warm bed, which now needs to be poured with warm water at the rate of 5-10 buckets per 1 sq. m.

A bed prepared in the spring will take time to warm up. It is necessary to cover it with a film for 1.5 - 2 weeks. The cover is then removed; if necessary, the bed is again watered with warm water. After the bed settles, it will be possible to start planting. Your warm bed is ready to receive crops or seedlings.

1. Along the entire ridge in the center, make a small roller of the earth, dividing the bed into two parts. This is necessary so that the irrigation water flows directly into the wells.
2. On both sides of the roller, make sufficiently large holes at a distance of 60 cm from each other, 30 cm deep and with a diameter of three-liter jar, with the help of a jar, you can also form holes by lightly tamping the ground.
3. Put dry seeds into each hole (at the bottom) with your hand: cucumbers 4 seeds each, zucchini - 2 seeds each, pumpkin - 1 each. From above, you fall asleep with a layer of earth according to the agricultural technique of cultivating the crop (from 2 to 5 cm).
4. After sowing the hole, it is necessary to lightly water and cover the finished bed with a translucent film, pressing it tightly on all sides to the soil. Use a dense (reinforced) film. Such a shelter will last more than one year.
5. By the time the plants have more than one true leaf, make a cross cut in the film over the hole and tuck the corners inward, and straighten the sprouts from under the film. Now they will not burn out and will harden in time.

It may turn out that the weather and temperature are not yet suitable for planting and the threat of return frosts remains. In this case, the bed should be covered with lutrasil (covering material), you can put several arcs for a while and cover the bed again along them. Such measures will be enough to protect the landings from the cold and from burning under the film. After the threat of frost return has passed, remove all shelters above the bed, leave only the film on the ground. It will not allow weeds to grow, and the vegetables on it will be clean.

The positive effect of warm beds

1. No weeding needed. All weeds, not being able to go outside, burn and rot under the film, turning into natural fertilizer.
2. Used to water plants minimal amount water, since it can be carried out directly into the holes, so even on hot days it is enough to water the plantings 1-2 times a week.
3. There is no need to ask the neighbors to open or close, water the plantings in your absence. Plants in such a bed in a "film shirt" are warm at night and not hot during the day.
4. Vegetables in such a garden will always be clean.
5. If you make warm beds in the garden every year, then there is no need to make a compost heap. The organic matter that has decayed over the season in a warm bed is compost.

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warm bed

How does it work

Thanks to its device, a warm bed creates favorable conditions for growing plants. Organics (manure, rotten straw, food waste, fallen leaves, mowed grass) with which you filled the bed rot, forming a large amount of nutrients and releasing carbon dioxide. Plants respond to such a gift with increased growth and health.

Another plus of a warm bed is that during decomposition organic waste, a large amount of heat is also released in the roots of plants. In such a heated bed, seedlings can be planted 3 weeks earlier than usual, which means that the period of plant development increases. Thanks to this heating, the plants can easily withstand a temperature drop of up to 5 degrees. All this has a positive effect on the crop.

Why do you need a warm bed

Seedlings planted in a warm bed develop faster, are not affected by diseases, plants become stronger and healthier than usual. Weeds do not grow here, the applied fertilizers remain in place, and after using the beds you will also get humus - the most valuable fertilizer. As a result, the yield increases almost three times! At the same time, caring for landings is quite convenient.

To use the land rationally and find a place for all the vegetables and berries that you love, carefully plan your site. When planning, pay attention to well-lit areas, because that is where the beds are best placed. Best Option it will be, if you can organize 4 beds for alternating vegetable crops, this will provide a crop rotation. Accordingly, the plants will be strong, healthy and actively growing.

Types of warm beds

A warm bed can be high, or it can look like a trench. The filling principle is the same for them, the difference is that for high beds you will need to make a box, and for a trench - go deep into the ground by 0.4-0.5m. For a deep bed, we dig a trench measuring 1x6m (this optimal size, but you choose the one that suits you).

A high bed has one advantage: in early spring it will begin to warm up earlier, since its walls will be under the first rays of the sun.

You can also build a combined warm bed, the lower part of which will be in the ground, and the upper part in the box. You choose.

How to DIY

You can prepare a warm bed both in early spring and autumn. You will have to try a little and spend a little more time, but the effort expended will return to you with a good harvest.

So let's get started:

• we dig a trench 1m wide, 0.4-0.5m deep. Length is arbitrary
• at the bottom of the trench we lay any wood waste (cut branches, boards, tree roots, sawdust)
• we fill the trench with food and garden waste, paper, mowed grass, dry leaves, tops
• we fall asleep rotted manure. Preferred - horse, bird and rabbit. Cow and pig dung burn a little worse, but are also suitable for bookmarking
• add ash (if any)
• we fill the garden bed with humus with a layer of 10-15 cm (this is all that is rotted in your compost heap in a year). If you don’t have such a mixture, then we fill the bed with soil that remains after digging the trench

For a high warm bed, you do not need to dig a deep trench, but you will need to build a box of the appropriate height.