Underfloor heating - what is it? Electric-water underfloor heating: which is better, features, and advantages XL Pipe floor Surface preparation. Distinctive features of thermal insulation of the base

Until recently, such a type of heating as underfloor heating was an accessory of elite housing. Today the market offers such systems in a wide price range. Everyone can choose the option that suits their budget. In this article, we will consider the main types of underfloor heating and find out which one is preferable to use in a particular case.

Benefits of underfloor heating

What is the main disadvantage of the traditional space heating system using radiators placed on the walls? Warm air, according to the law of physics, rushes up, bypassing those areas that need heating in the first place. There is an overheating of the upper layers and insufficient heating of the lower ones. The underfloor heating system eliminates this effect.

If with side heating the air under the ceiling heats up by 5 - 7 degrees more than below, then when the warm floor is working, things are exactly the opposite. And such a distribution of temperature in a residential area is perceived by a person as more comfortable.

In addition, when heat is felt in the area of the legs, the overall temperature in the room is perceived as higher. It is possible to reduce the heating of the room by several degrees without sacrificing comfort and reduce energy consumption.

The device of a heat-insulated floor allows to regulate a microclimate in the apartment. The control unit automatically maintains the set temperature, and also turns on or off the heating in time, guided by a certain algorithm. This makes it possible to use energy more rationally.

When thinking about the question of whether a warm floor is needed, keep in mind that due to the upward heat flows, it is the most effective and economical means of heating an apartment. Such a system can be used both for individual rooms (bathroom, toilet, kitchen), and for the entire apartment.

Which floor to choose - water or electric?

Warm floors can be made on the basis of electric heating elements or pipes through which hot water circulates.

In the first case, the design of the warm floor is as follows: the heating element is a cable, a special film or rods. These models convert electrical energy into thermal energy. They are suitable as additional heating in small rooms (bathrooms, corridors or on insulated balconies).

Water floors are powered by a central heating system or a boiler. Such a warm floor can be used for basic heating. It is used in large areas.

But in order to finally decide which scheme of a warm floor is preferable in a particular case, you need to compare the features, as well as the strengths and weaknesses of water and electric floors. And also find out which option will be more suitable for a particular room. In addition to costs and technical characteristics, it is necessary to take into account the conditions in which this system will have to operate.

Electric floor features

Electric underfloor heating works only on electricity. It is considered a rather expensive heating method. The use of other power sources in this case is not possible.

When installing the system, it is necessary to accurately determine the places where plumbing and furniture will be located, and bypass them. The technology of underfloor heating using electricity is such that in places under large objects there is a high probability of local overheating. It is also not recommended to move furniture after installing the floor.

The surface temperature of the cable, at which it can function normally, should not exceed 100 degrees. The consequences of overheating are fraught with cable burnout, as well as the release of toxic substances as a result of its decomposition. In case of mechanical damage to the electric floor, an electric shock is possible.

Comparative table of manufacturers and approximate cost

Manufacturer	Warm floor model	Peculiarities	Cost, rub/m2
Teplolux (Russia, Ukraine)	Standard	One- or two-core sections are used. Power - from 140 W to 3 kW. The cost of installing an electric floor Teplolux will be the lowest and amounts to 2,500 rubles / m 2.	2339
Teplolux (Russia, Ukraine)	ProfiMat	It is a good solution for underfloor heating due to the presence of a thin two-core cable, optimally fixed to the grid for maximum heat transfer and increased reliability.	4652
Arnold (Germany)	FH-series	Warm cable floors for tiles that do not require a concrete screed. Thin elements with a thickness of up to 3 mm are located on the grid. Power - from 135 W to 2.08 kW.	1790
Arnold (Germany)	PHS Series	A two-core cable with double insulation is used, which significantly increases the service life. Cable thickness - 6.9 mm. Requires concrete screed.	1900
Unimat (Russia)	rail	Underfloor heating is made of rods, which saves energy up to 60%.	2158
Unimat (Russia)	Boost	Designed for mounting on adhesive or self-leveling floors. Consist of infrared rods, are not afraid of overheating, do not dry the air.	2158

During the repair, if it is not possible to find the place of damage and install a special coupling on it, it is necessary to replace the entire non-working section.

Video on the choice of electric and water heated floors

By heating, the warm floor creates electromagnetic radiation, which adversely affects the health of people and pets. True, this applies only to cable systems.

Types of electric floors

The electric underfloor heating, the description of the features of which you read in the previous chapter, has a fairly large number of varieties.

According to the principle of heating, such a floor is divided into the following models:

Convection. During their operation, warm air masses are replaced by cold air. On execution can be cable and film.
infrared. When heated, they emit electromagnetic waves in the infrared range. By execution, they can be film and rod.

Heating with infrared models is perceived as more comfortable. In addition, during their operation there is practically no electromagnetic radiation. They are absolutely safe for health.

The electrical system of a warm floor uses a cable (on a coil, as well as in the form of sections or mats), a heating film (carbon or bimetallic) or carbon rods as a heating element. Material that may be useful to you in order to choose underfloor heating - electric or water.

Table of comparative characteristics of warm floors

cable floor	infrared floor	Heating mats
Heating occurs according to the convection principle.	Heating of the room on the principle of infrared radiation.	Heating of the room occurs due to special cables - one or two-core.
The ceiling and floor are heated unevenly.	The room is completely warmed up uniformly.	Heating of the room is carried out evenly.
Emits a harmful electromagnetic field.	No harmful radiation.	Does not emit harmful radiation
During heating, the air becomes dry.	The air is ionized, which has a positive effect on health.	Environmentally friendly electric floor.
Installation is carried out either in a screed or with a special glue.	During installation, you can do without a screed.	Installation is carried out in a sand-cement mixture or in a special glue.
Installation is done in 3 days.	Installed in 1 day.	Depending on the area of the room.
Requires special flooring - tiles or granite.	Floor covering does not play a special role and therefore can be anything.	The coating must have good thermal conductivity.
With minor damage, the entire section fails.	The failure of one section does not affect the operation of the others.	If the sensor is damaged, the entire heating system fails.
After installation, a minimum of 2 weeks is required before operation begins.	You can start using immediately after installation	After installation, it is desirable to operate after 2 days. If glue was used during installation, then you can use it no earlier than 7 days.
Possible corrosion.	Does not corrode.	Rust resistant.
Fire hazardous.	Fireproof.	Subject to fire.

Video on the types of electric underfloor heating

Restrictions on the use of underfloor heating

The efficiency of heating with underfloor heating is obvious, but it is far from always possible to use this system. There are cases when the use of underfloor heating is strictly prohibited or not recommended due to its inefficiency:

It is strongly not recommended to install underfloor heating in large common areas with high ceilings and a large floor area. Heating will require a large amount of water and the lines will be too long. It will be necessary to install additional pumping equipment and the efficiency of such floors will be very low compared to the cost of heating. The same goes for electric floors. The system will draw too much electricity and require a lot of cabling.
Water floors in multi-apartment buildings powered by a common heating system are only possible if such a possibility is provided by the common heating system. Otherwise, it is impossible to connect water floors to a common riser. Firstly, this will lead to an imbalance of the coolant and the hydraulic load of the system. Secondly, the difference in pressure can lead to a violation of the tightness of the floor and joints, and this will lead to an emergency and flood the neighbors.
Do not use underfloor heating in conjunction with linoleum of questionable quality. Heating the coating will lead to the evaporation of harmful substances in the apartment. Use only natural marmolium coating. The most effective are ceramic tiles and laminate.
Do not use underfloor heating in conjunction with parquet or carpet. These materials have low thermal conductivity and such heating will be extremely inefficient.

Note. In private houses and apartments, the best option would be to use underfloor heating as an additional heating system, and leave the main one in the form of radiators. In this case, you can use heating boilers with a low temperature of 30-36 degrees. In apartments, it is better to use electric floors as additional heating. In the event of a power outage or a breakdown of the floor itself, you will still have central heating.

Calculation of the power of an electric floor heating

The following formula is used for the calculation:

P= Pm * S rooms

In the formula: Pm- rated power per square meter of the heating element, and S rooms - is the area of the heated room. Here it is important to take not the entire area, but the useful one, which will be heated by heating elements. The usable area is shown in the photo above and it is this area that must be taken into account in the calculations.

Important! Heating elements must be laid only in the open part of the floor. It is highly recommended not to install mats or heating cable under cabinets, beds or armchairs as the heat will not escape upwards and cause the floor to overheat. This is fraught with failure of the floor itself, damage to furniture or even fire.

The power of the heating element itself can be selected based on the recommended parameters from manufacturers, depending on the type of room.

Type of heating	name of the property	Required power
Additional heating	Kitchen, living rooms on the ground floor	140-150 W/m2
Additional heating	Kitchen, living rooms on the second floor and above	120-130 W/m2
Additional heating	Bathroom	140-150 W/m2
Additional heating	Balcony, loggia	180 W/m2
Main heating	All premises, regardless of purpose	180 W/m2

Next, select the type of heating (additional or main), select the power for the type of room indicated in the table and multiply by the resulting value of the usable area of the room.

Consider an example of a floor calculation for a typical living room in a new building with a total area of 25 square meters. With the deduction of furniture, let's say we have 15 squares of open space left, which we will insulate.

Important! When choosing a heating mat or cable, you need to remember that the heating mats indicate the power in W / m square, and the cables indicate the power W / m linear. To calculate the cable, select the laying step and see how many meters of cable go per square meter of floor surface. In order to get a heating power with a cable of 150 W / m square, you need to take a cable with a power of 30 W / m and lay it on one square in 20 cm increments.

And so we have a living room with a useful area of 15 sq / m2 and the required power from the table is 150W / m2. Substitute the values in the formula:

P=15*150=2250W

As a result, we get: the power of the entire underfloor heating will require 2250 W or 2 kW and 250 W. Based on this value, we calculate the wiring of the apartment and select the necessary cables.

Video on calculating the power of a warm floor

Industrial underfloor heating

The scope of use of electric floors is not limited to residential or public spaces. Recently, they are increasingly mounted for heating industrial buildings and open areas.

Objects where industrial warm floors are used can be:

drainage and sewer pipelines, as well as storm and heat pipes;
roof elements: gutters, cornices and gutters;
various open areas (car parks, outdoor steps, ramps, loading ramps, etc.);
greenhouses and various livestock buildings;
technical facilities.

Features of the water floor

Underfloor heating is often part of a central heating system. The correct underfloor heating with water as a heat carrier is difficult to implement. When installing it, a certain experience and a fairly high level of qualification are required.

It can be connected to the heating plant only in new buildings where there are heat exchange risers. It is forbidden to do this in the houses of the old housing stock: the water, having passed along the contour, cools down. This leads to the fact that the carrier temperature of the neighbors will not be high enough. In addition, dependence on centralized heating does not allow the use of the structure after the heating season ends.

Electric underfloor heating is popular due to its ease of installation and durability. It also does not require any additional communications other than electricity, therefore it is successfully used in private construction. It is not difficult to make an electric underfloor heating, its installation does not require special knowledge and takes a little time. Consider the main stages and important nuances that you need to know when installing a warm floor.

Electric underfloor heating is successfully used in absolutely any type of premises. It can be apartment or private houses, garages, baths or loggias. It is only important to choose the right system power and provide sufficient thermal insulation. This method can be used as the only source of space heating. But electricity costs can skyrocket.

Types of electric floor heating (ETP)

All options for organizing such systems are divided into three groups.

ETP based on heating wire. The whole system is a thermostat, a temperature sensor and a long wire in double insulation, which produces heat. This is the cheapest, but also the most time-consuming option. The wire must be laid out on the base floor and fixed in a special mounting tape. It is important to maintain the same distance between the turns of the wire and avoid kinks and overlaps of the wire.
ETP based on heating mats. This option is more convenient in installation, since the wire is factory-packed into special reinforcing mats and rigidly fixed in them. You do not need to worry about laying the wire, just lay out the mats of the required power on the base and connect them. This saves a lot of time and reduces the risk of error.
ETP based on infrared film. This option is fundamentally different from the previous two. Heating occurs due to infrared treatment of the carbon material deposited on the film base. This option does not require the mandatory use of a cement screed, the finish coat can be laid directly on top of the film. However, this is the least reliable and uneconomical ETP option.

Comparative characteristics of cable and film underfloor heating

signs	Film heating	Cable heating
Utility room	No need	No need
Floor thickness with screed	5-10 mm	50-100 mm
Installation time	1 day	1 day
Ready for use	Straightaway	28 days
Installation options	Floor, ceiling, walls, any surface	Floor. Mounting on other surfaces is possible, but difficult
Reliability	If even a significant part of the system is damaged, undamaged segments continue to work	With any damage to the cable, it completely fails.
Repair costs	Minimum	High, 100%
Service	Not required	Not required
Freezing in winter	Missing	Missing
Health impact	Positive healing	Neutral, subject to high-quality two-core cable
Heat distribution and effects on coatings	Uniform heating	Uneven temperature distribution, there are zones of elevated temperature
Zoning		Possibility of organizing separate point zones
Expenses	Relatively low initially. energy saving	Relatively low initial, operational - by counter

The principle of operation of the ETP

In the case of a heating wire and mats, the conductor is heated under the action of an electric current flowing in it. The wire heats the screed, which in turn heats the finish. Heating occurs by convection.

In the case of using an infrared film, heating occurs by thermal radiation of the carbon layer, which occurs under the influence of an electric current. This radiation heats the finish and objects that are close enough to the floor. From them, by convection, the air in the room is heated.

Temperature control is carried out using a temperature sensor and a thermostat, through which a warm floor is connected.

How to choose the required power of a warm floor

Before calculating the power, you need to know whether the room will be heated only with the help of the ETP or whether it will complement the main heating system, creating additional comfort. Each ETP manufacturer in the technical data sheet of his product indicates what power should be selected in each case.

For most premises, a value of 120-140 W/m2 is selected as a comfortable ETP based on a heating wire or a heating mat. If the ETP is made on the basis of an infrared film, then the comfortable value is 150 W/m2.

If the room will be heated only by the ETP, then for the heating wire or mat, the value of 160-180 W / m2 is selected, and for the infrared film, the power should be equal to 220 W / m2.

If you are using a heating mat or infrared film, then the capacity per square meter is known in advance and you just need to choose the appropriate option. In the case of using a heating cable, the power will depend on the distance between its turns. You need to know in advance the area and shape of the heating surface, after which you will determine the required distance from the tables in the technical data sheet or instructions. Usually it is 10-30 cm, depending on the power of the cable.

It is important to take into account the maximum possible load on the building's electrical network, as well as to use switching equipment designed for the appropriate load current.

What are the consequences of errors in the installation of ETP

A common mistake is to lay the ETP under massive furniture and household appliances. Insufficient cooling of the floor surface can cause the wire to overheat and fail.

Never turn on heating wires or mats until the screed is completely dry. Even short-term activation can lead to damage to the heater. Checking the integrity of the laid cable and the correct connection is possible only by measuring the resistance. This does not apply to the infrared film floor, it can and should be included in the network for verification.

Do not kink or step on the wire, and avoid pulling on the wire. All this can lead to damage to the conductor or insulation and breakage of the entire system. Also avoid damage to the heating film if you are installing an infrared ETP.

Do not forget to control the insulation resistance at all stages of work, especially before pouring the screed. The value should not differ from the one declared by the manufacturer by more than 10%. If you see a strong discrepancy in the values, stop work and find the area of \u200b\u200bdamaged insulation. If this rule is neglected, then after the screed has dried, a very unpleasant surprise may await you in the form of a non-working ETP.

Do not pour the temperature sensor directly into the screed. Place it in the corrugation, which will be filled with a screed. Sensors often fail and if you pour it into the screed, then replacing it will require considerable effort.

When installing an infrared ETP, do not forget to isolate the current-carrying parts at the places where the film is cut. Otherwise, the protective equipment will constantly detect the leakage current and turn off the power to your ETP.

Advantages and disadvantages of ETP

The advantages of ETP are:

ease of assembly design. This is especially true for heating mats and infrared film. It is enough to simply spread them on the base and connect according to the instructions, this does not require any special knowledge;
high reliability and durability. Provided that the insulation is intact, the heating wire or mats cast into the screed have an almost unlimited service life;
high autonomy. ETP does not require the house to be connected to the water supply and even works from an electric generator. This allows you to use it in village houses and cottages.

The disadvantages of this heating method include:

relatively high cost of space heating. ETP consumes quite a lot of power, especially if it is the only heating method;
due to the relatively low temperature of the floor surface, the air in the room warms up rather slowly. This is relevant if the ETP is the only source of heat and does not work constantly. For example, in a country house in the winter;
since it is forbidden to place heating elements under massive furniture, after the completion of work, a global rearrangement of furniture will not be possible.

Step-by-step instructions for installing ETP

Foundation preparation

The ETP floor must be laid on a clean, dry base. It is necessary to cut a groove in the wall for the temperature controller and wires. Carefully sweep away any resulting debris.

After that, you need to put a layer of thermal insulation on the base, for example, penofol or expanded polystyrene. If there is a heated room one floor below, then it will be enough to put a layer of penofol 5 mm thick. If there is an unheated room or soil under the warm floor, then it is necessary to use expanded polystyrene with a thickness of 20 mm to 50 mm, depending on the severity of winters in your area. Thermal insulation is fixed with any adhesive material.

Laying heating elements

Mark the floor before starting installation. It is important to highlight those areas that should not warm up. It is important to remember that a distance of 0.5 m must be kept to walls and large furniture, and a distance of at least 0.3 m to heaters, stoves and fireplaces.

If you are installing a warm floor based on a heating wire, then first you need to install a mounting tape. It will fix the turns of the wire and prevent them from shifting. Lay the tape on the thermal insulation and secure with dowels.

Mounting tape fastening

Carefully unwind the heating wire and lay it over the thermal insulation and mounting tape, strictly observing the parallelism of the turns and the gaps between them. Secure each turn with fixing antennae on the mounting tape. In no case should the wire coils overlap. After laying, measure the insulation resistance, it should not differ from the norm by more than 10%.

If you are using infrared film, then carefully unwind it along the base, then connect the sheets of film together in parallel. Lead the wires to the installation site of the thermostat.

Temperature sensor installation

If you are mounting an ETP based on a heating wire or mat, then the temperature sensor must be located in a corrugated tube. Make a small recess in the heat-insulating layer and put a 20 mm tube into it. Plug one end of the tube tightly with insulation, and bring the other end above the floor level in the same place where the wires will come out.

Place the temperature probe at the end of the tube and make sure it can be easily pulled back out. This is important for the possibility of replacing the sensor after the floor is filled with screed.

If you are using an infrared ETP, then you can check it by turning it on, the floor should be warm to the touch.

Filling the warm floor with a screed

If you use an infrared ETP, then pouring is not required, you can immediately proceed with the installation of the finish coating.

If you use a heating wire or mat, then pouring the screed is strictly required. It is necessary to fill cement to a thickness of 30-50 mm. After the screed has hardened, you can proceed with the installation of the finish coating, for example, tiles, laminate or linoleum. The first inclusion of a warm floor can be carried out only after the screed is completely dry. Most manufacturers set a complete drying time of 28 days. This ensures that there are no voids around the wire that will burn out the wire over time.

Video - Installation of heating mats

Video - Underfloor heating under tiles

Video - Installation of Electrolux underfloor heating, cable

Video - Installation of film underfloor heating

Recently, it is customary to install additional heating systems in the house. This role is often played by underfloor heating. They allow you to beat the room more effectively and make being in the room more comfortable. But the choice of a specific type of underfloor heating is quite difficult, because manufacturers represent different types of heating systems, including electric underfloor heating. Each such design provides for a certain method of heating and has a number of differences. Therefore, it is important to know the advantages and disadvantages of all these types and the rules for choosing them.

Device

Electric underfloor heating has many design features. So, this whole system includes several main parts. For film models, you need to make a special draft floor. In this case, electrical elements, such as cables, mats, film heaters, are laid on a flat, smooth surface.

A separate element of the device of such a system is a thermostat. It allows you to control the heating parameters, independently turn the heating on and off. All heating elements and cables are connected to it, including the ends of temperature sensors. Electric underfloor heating is laid under floor coverings, but some structures can be laid on a screed, or you can do without using it, but on a solid base.

Not all models of a warm electric floor include thermostats and sensors in their device. But this option can overheat and fail. That is why the best is the model, the device of which includes two thermal sensors and a thermostat. The device of each specific type of underfloor heating differs, as well as its characteristics and cost.

The system also includes a residual current device. This is a device that is designed to protect against electric shock. The electric floor heats up due to the generation of heat in the heating wires. The heating elements have a special layer of insulation, which makes the system safer and more stable.

Pros and cons

All electric underfloor heating in general have a number of advantages. So, in comparison with other types of warm floors, they have a rather long service life and at the same time provide high-quality and reliable floor heating. The floor temperature is approximately 25 - 27 degrees. This indicator is comfortable for the legs.

Heat from electric floors is understood upwards slowly and low, evenly warming up the entire area of the floor. Thus, in the room does not form drafts at all, the temperature is distributed evenly. Another big advantage of electric underfloor heating is that it doesn't dry out the air. In a room with heated floors, the humidity of the air is normal and acceptable for human health.

An electric floor is much easier to install than other types. This is especially true for water heated floors, the installation of which is very difficult and not allowed in all rooms. In addition, this floor perfectly copes with the function of an additional source of heating for large rooms when there is not enough battery power.

But in small rooms, it can also be used as the main heating method, for example, in a bathroom, in a small kitchen, on a balcony or loggia. Such a floor will be able to evenly warm the air throughout the room with a small area. Another great advantage of electric underfloor heating is that it does not interfere with the interior layout and takes up very little space. Floor coverings securely close such a system.

The underfloor heating system as a whole is not bulky and rather compact. Electric underfloor heating does not have a harmful effect on floor coverings. They smoothly transfer heat to it, allowing it to warm up evenly. Thanks to this, it is possible not only to heat the entire floor covering, but also to maintain the required temperature of the floor and the air in the room.

But now not all warm floors are ideal. A number of electrical models have disadvantages. So, they are not suitable for installation under furniture, as they can overheat it. Wooden furniture without legs with a solid facade can dry out and lose its former gloss. Therefore, it needs to be laid only after you decide where which furniture will stand.

After that, you will not be able to rearrange, since the coating will already be spread out and a place will already be allocated in advance where it is possible and where it is impossible to put furniture. But in this case, this drawback does not have carbon floors on a rod basis. Another disadvantage is that each room requires the installation of a thermostat. On the one hand, this is convenient, since you can adjust the temperature for each room individually, but on the other hand, this is an extra cost.

Another negative quality is that electric floors spend quite a lot of electricity. This can add up to quite a large sum of money, especially considering that they will not replace the main heating in many rooms and thus you will not be able to save money.

How much electricity does it consume?

When choosing a floor heating system, it is important to consider the purpose of the room in which it will be installed. For a kitchen or a corridor, models with a capacity of approximately 110-130 W per square meter are suitable. m. For a private house, especially for its ground floor, more powerful models are suitable - about 40 watts per square meter. m. For a bathroom as a heating source, it is better to choose models with a capacity of 150 W per square meter. On the balcony you need to choose even more powerful underfloor heating - 180 W per sq. m and above. Thus, the energy consumption depends on the room in which you install underfloor heating.

Coatings also differ in energy consumption depending on the type of their structures. Under equal conditions, cable underfloor heating requires a power of 120 watts per square meter. m, and matte - 160 W per sq. m, so the first - more profitable.

If such a heating system is installed in damp rooms, you will see an even greater difference between these indicators. The most economical is the carbon floor, but this applies only to those cases when it is used as an additional source of heating. This is due to the fact that it has a self-regulation system that does not allow electricity to be overused.

Kinds

According to the type of space and floor heating, there are two main types:

Convection warm floor. They can be:

conventional cable;
in the form of mats.

infrared warm floor. They are:

film;
rod (carbon) mats.

As for convection floors, they have a constant heating cable. It is laid in a zigzag method or in the form of a spiral under a cement screed. Moreover, a distance of about 10 cm is left between each turn of the cable. There are resistive and self-regulating convection floors.

Self-regulating models have a rather complex device. They can independently determine exactly where in the underfloor heating system overheating occurs, automatically reduce the energy supply and turn off the power in this area.

A simpler device has conventional heating cable. Such systems are easier to install. They are presented in the form of the following options:

single-resistive;
two-core.

Such floors create electromagnetic radiation, and the two-core version makes it much weaker. The installation of a cable floor is rather complicated, since the cables must not intersect with each other and an equal distance must be maintained between them. In addition, all transitions must be smooth, no kinks are allowed. Floor coverings can be installed on them only 3 days after laying the warm floor.

A more convenient option is mini mats with cable included. They are a cable that is already ready and laid out in the desired form, fixed to thin mats, which is a fiberglass mesh resembling a thin carpet. Such a cable is ideally located and does not form kinks. That is why such a system is easy to mount with your own hands.

The mat is rolled onto the finished cement screed under the floor covering. Especially it should be noted that such mats are very thin. Their thickness does not exceed 4-5 mm, so they are not bulky and do not hide the size of the room. Manufacturers present models in rolls of different widths from 50 cm to a meter and even more. Moreover, the mats have a special base that can be glued by pressing, you do not have to use any adhesives.

When laying, a thermostat, temperature sensors and a device for automatically shutting down the system are connected to the cable underfloor heating. But when laying such mats, some problems may arise. So, in some places the mesh will still have to be cut and the cable carefully laid so that a second sheet can be laid without interrupting it. It is important not to damage the cable and place it at a safe distance of about 5 cm.

The next large group of underfloor heating - infrared electric floors. They only heat the floor coverings, not the air. That is why they maintain the required level of air humidity and uniform heating of floor coverings without harming it. This effect is achieved through infrared radiation. But in this regard, a number of buyers are wondering if such radiation is safe. Many experts claim that it is completely safe for human health, even useful - infrared radiation is used even in medicine.

In addition, experts point out that infrared warm floors carry out ionization of air and make it even more useful. In addition, they do not cause an allergic reaction, as the manufacturers assure.

As for film models, they are thin insulating polyester films of small thickness. They are almost invisible. They are only about 1mm thick. The film of infrared heat-insulated floor includes two main layers, between which there is a heating element in the form of a carbon paste applied in strips. But there are also better and more expensive models in which the paste is applied in a continuous layer.

Carbon paste conducts heat well and therefore quickly converts electricity into infrared waves. Copper conductors are located along the edges of the film, which allow you to evenly distribute the electric current over the heating elements. The bottom layer is a reflective heating pad that allows heat to be directed upwards to heat the floor rather than the ceiling of the neighbors below.

From above, such a floor is covered with polyethylene, which allows for the greenhouse effect. Thanks to this, heat is distributed as evenly as possible. This thin version of underfloor heating is perfect for thick flooring such as laminate or board. But when such a system is installed under thinner coatings, for example, under linoleum, then manufacturers recommend additionally installing a plywood layer.

The infrared floor has the following principle of operation: electricity comes from the thermostat through wires that are connected with special terminals to the sheets. An important and difficult task will be the correct docking of the contacts, which will allow you to achieve perfect heating of the floors. The contacts on the edges of the infrared film are tightly clamped and brought in with the right side.

If during installation you pinch this wire or unfold it incorrectly, the system will quickly burn out and last no more than a year. That is why when installing such a floor, it is better to contact an electrician or follow his instructions.

Infrared underfloor heating is the most versatile of all electric and underfloor heating options. It is perfect for installation under any floor covering, from natural parquet to warm fleecy carpet, you can put any rugs on it.

The thickness of the infrared warm floor is the thinnest in comparison with other types of floors. A huge advantage of this variety is that when installing such a floor, a concrete screed is not required. It can be safely laid out under the finishing material for the floor. In addition, it is now envisaged to install infrared floor heating even on walls and ceilings. That is, this option can even replace the main heating.

Separately, the flexibility of such a system is noted, which opens up more opportunities for planning and interior design of the room. Film infrared floors can be installed independently, especially since manufacturers present models that have special markings. It is in this place that you can cut the coating for its further joining.

But this type of underfloor heating also has some negative qualities. So, when installing it in concrete, you have to wait a long time, sometimes this period reaches a month, since it is necessary to wait for the completion of all chemical processes occurring in the screed.

Infrared floors do not have the highest heating temperature. This is due to the fact that they are designed to be installed under natural surfaces such as wood. That is why they do not overheat above 28 degrees. If overheated, many coatings can deteriorate or deform.

In addition, a feature of the installation of such warm floors is that they require a smooth and even surface. This is due to the small thickness of infrared heating systems.

Rod carbon floors are no less interesting design. Their bases are made of carbon, which has a high level of heat dissipation. It converts electricity into infrared heat. The rods are connected parallel to each other. Moreover, this is one of the most reliable floor heating systems, because if one of the rods is damaged, the rest will not be affected.

It is believed that the rod carbon floor is the most durable and can last more than 50 years. The big advantage of this variety is the system of self-regulation of the rods, thanks to which you can achieve perfect temperature control. The system itself increases the heating temperature in those parts of the room where there may be drafts, for example, at the entrance, or vice versa, reduces the power near radiators and other sources of main heating.

On such systems, you can easily put any pieces of furniture without worrying that they will be damaged over time. There is also a reflective material underneath that allows the heat to be directed upwards. They can fill almost the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe room.

Some refer to electric heating systems as water models that work using an electric boiler. The boiler is often installed directly on the pipeline of the heating system.

Which to choose?

When choosing a warm floor, it is necessary to take into account its characteristics, since different floor coverings are suitable only for a certain type of such systems. So, the laminate has a low thermal conductivity, but it heats up quickly. A film is often installed under it, but at the same time a lot of electricity is spent on such heating, since the floor will always need to be kept on so that it does not cool down.

As for the tile, it heats up longer, but it retains heat well after the heating system is turned off. Therefore, a film warm system is perfect for it, which can first warm up this coating and then turn it off, significantly saving energy costs. But laying any underfloor heating under ceramic tiles is quite difficult, because if it cracks further, the heating system can also be damaged. It is better to put a fiberglass reinforcing mesh under it.

For new premises, a cable warm electrical system is more suitable, since, as a rule, only a rough finish was completed in them before moving in, and therefore you can install the foundation yourself and save a lot, for example, on the purchase of mats. Thus, you can make a cement screed yourself, but at the same time it will steal a few centimeters from the height of the room. But it will retain heat better and evenly distribute it over the surface. So the floor will slowly give off heat.

Characteristics and method of installation of a warm electric floor is suitable only for a certain coverage. So, the cable system is mounted in a wet cement screed and is perfect for ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware, natural stone and laminate. It is also suitable for installation under linoleum, wood and textile floor coverings.

The cable with heat-insulating plates is laid under a dry screed. The choice in favor of such a warm system should be made if you want to lay ceramic tiles, porcelain tiles, natural stone, laminate or wood. Linoleum is acceptable, but not ideal.

As for the film floor, carbon models are great for laminate and parquet, it is also possible to install an electric plank floor under carpet and linoleum. They are mounted on a dry screed. The film floor in the form of mats is placed under the tile adhesive. This system is perfect for installing ceramic tiles, porcelain stoneware and mineral stone. Valid for him are laminate, linoleum and textile coatings, and in some cases, wooden coatings.

The core film floor is laid on a wet cement screed. It can be chosen if you want to make a floor covering of porcelain stoneware, ceramic tiles, natural stone or laminate.

For different rooms

Different purpose rooms require the installation of different types of underfloor heating. It is necessary to calculate the thermal power required for each specific room. In this case, it is better to purchase models with a power reserve. It is necessary to take into account the height of the ceilings. If indoors they are higher than 3 m, then heating elements with a power of more than 150 W per square meter should be selected. m.

For the most ordinary rooms, for example, for living rooms, if you install a screed on the floor, it is better to choose a cable or rod electric floor heating. For bathrooms, it is better to choose models with a higher heating power. Moreover, most often a floor covering in the form of porcelain stoneware is installed in the bathroom, so a rod heating system is most suitable for it. Cable underfloor heating is also acceptable. If you do not plan to install a concrete screed in the room, then the floors can be chosen for laminate, linoleum or carpet, which are most often used in the bedroom or nursery. For such rooms, a film heating system is most suitable.

Calculation and installation

Before installing a warm electric floor, it is necessary to calculate the area and power of the floor system. First of all, it is necessary to determine the required heating power, depending on what role you assign with floor heating. If it is necessary to ensure comfort and walking barefoot, then a floor with a power of 150 W per 1 sq. m, but if this is not an additional, but the main heating system, then you need to select models with a capacity of about 200-220 W per sq. m. Depending on the purpose of the premises, the calculation will also differ.

In the bedroom, you need to make heating approximately 180 watts per square meter. m, and in the bathroom - at least 200 watts. The heating rate for the living room is 150 W per m2, but if it has at least two outer walls, then choose underfloor heating options with high rates.

When calculating it is important to consider where you install such a warm floor. If there is another apartment below you in a panel house, then the minimum allowable indicators will be enough, but if there is a cellar, basement or other unheated room or soil below, then you need to select models with powerful heating. The floor installed on the balcony or on the veranda should have even more power, especially if these rooms are not heated.

The power of the electric floor is also calculated from the area of \u200b\u200bthe heated room. But the calculation should be made by subtracting from the total area of \u200b\u200bthe room those areas where the furniture will be located. That is why, before installing underfloor heating, it is necessary to make a layout and calculate where the furniture will stand and subtract this area from the total. It is also better to retreat a few centimeters from all walls, and this should be taken into account when calculating the area.

After that, it is necessary to calculate the total power for floor heating of all rooms. It is necessary to multiply the resulting area by the power required for this place. But with such calculations, the numbers will turn out to be very impressive, do not be alarmed, this does not mean at all that you will spend exactly that much electricity. You will periodically turn off underfloor heating, especially for self-regulating models, which, by automatically turning off, save energy.

If the main heating system works well in the room and thermostats are installed along with the warm floor, then the floor will consume about a third of the power you calculated earlier. That is why when installing a warm floor at home, it is important to pay great attention to thermal insulation, which will subsequently save energy consumption.

Laying a warm floor varies depending on some features. So, for some systems, you must first install the screed and install them there “on the wet”, and place floor coverings on top. This installation option is suitable for cable underfloor heating, which have an additional layer of waterproofing and insulation.

The next option is to install an electric floor over the screed. Thus, the floors are prepared for further laying of porcelain stoneware. This is a great installation option for apartments that are on the second floor and above. The simplest option for installing an electric underfloor heating is to install the system directly under the floor. This method is only suitable for film electric floors. This is the fastest and easiest option that saves time and saves you from the capital work of creating a concrete screed. This method is suitable for laying under linoleum or laminate. A layer of foamed polyethylene is covered on the existing screed, and then it is covered with foil. You can also install a layer of waterproofing on it, and only then mount the film electric floors. All these methods have their own specifics and features.

But before carrying out installation work, it is necessary to clearly draw up a plan for arranging furniture in the room, plan where the heating elements and controls will be located. During installation, try to retreat from the main heating sources, such as radiators, fireplaces, radiators. It is important to correctly determine the installation method and carry out all the necessary calculations before proceeding to the direct installation of the underfloor heating system.

First you need to choose a place for the thermostat. It is better to place it closer to the outlet on the wall. The thermostat may be overhead. Its installation is very simple, but at the same time it will be clearly visible. More complex and reliable is the installation of a mortise thermostat. It is built into a special mounting box in order to hide from prying eyes. So you can hide it from pets and small children who may accidentally press the button.

For the mortise model of the thermostat, special holes are made in the wall and, first of all, they mount the box where it will be placed. There you need to supply power and insulate the ends. After that, you need to lay a strobe down to the floor and place the wires there for further installation of the electric floor. The temperature sensors are carried out using a corrugated pipe. The strobe must be placed not only on the wall, but also on the floor, at least 50 cm in length from the wall. The sensor is located in this place, and the corrugated pipe allows you to secure it and simplifies the process of its subsequent replacement. In this place, a sensor is installed, fixed to the wire through the mounting box. The edge of the corrugated pipe must be closed with a foam plug or sealed with electrical tape so that the solution does not get there during installation.

The sensor installation is completed. After that, you need to connect the wires to the terminals on the thermostat in accordance with the instructions on the back of the thermostat. Then you can proceed to the connection of electric floor heaters - cables. They are connected to the terminals on the back of the thermostat. After that, you should connect the wires responsible for the power supply. This part of the work should be done by a knowledgeable electrician, because this way you can avoid mistakes and protect yourself.

Upon completion of all these works, it is necessary to check the system for operability and stability and turn it on for a certain period of time. After that, you can pour the screed, lay tiles, or even immediately lay a laminate or parquet board in case you use film heated floors.

How to ground?

Grounding an electric floor is an important process, since every electrical appliance presents some kind of hazard that needs to be disposed of. In addition, water can often spill on the floor, so electric underfloor heating must be grounded. This is especially true for wet rooms, such as a loggia, bathroom, kitchen. To do this, it is necessary to select heating elements that will be enclosed in a high-quality protective shell. In addition, you need to additionally connect the ground to protect the electrical coating.

It is better to carry out this procedure in all rooms, since not all heating elements have a protective sheath made of metal. So, for grounding, a metal mesh is laid on top of the heating elements on the electric floor. It must be connected with wires and connected to a special protective bus. Such a mesh, in addition to the protection function, will additionally make the floor more rigid and reliable, especially since electrical systems have a small thickness. The metal mesh also allows you to evenly distribute the load on the flooring.

When installing underfloor heating in a private house, it is necessary to make additional contours. It is necessary to install grounding with a depth of 1.5 - 2 m. There should be jumpers between them at an equal distance of about 1 m. This way you can protect yourself and your household from an accident and make home heating safer.

Control

Electric floors can be controlled using a special device called a thermostat. It determines the connection of the system to the electricity network. With it, you can control the temperature of the floor itself and the air in the room.

The main role in the control is played by internal sensors. They are installed in the screed or, if there is no screed, under the topmost covering during installation. Other sensors determine the air temperature in the room. They are not installed on the floor, but most often on the wall.

Manufacturers offer different electric floor control panels and simplify the complex process of interacting with this system. So, the simplest is electronic-mechanical regulator, which involves only adjusting the heating temperature and has a button to turn off the electric floor. You can increase and decrease the temperature by hand using the rotating wheel. Such a thermostat greatly simplifies management, anyone can handle it. In addition, there are much fewer cases of breakdown of such a system.

Digital thermostat involves a more complex and total control of this system. It is a panel with buttons or touch controls. Additionally, it has a special control unit with electrical sensors that collects all the necessary information about the air and floor temperature and transmits it to the thermostat.

The following kind of controls − programmable heat controller. It is the latest among such systems. It allows you not only to set different temperature conditions for all rooms, but also to change the temperature of different areas within the same room. They can be controlled not only manually, but also remotely using a smartphone, leaving home. So you can control the heating, even leaving the house.

All of these electric floor control panels can fit into different interiors, with some more and some less visible, it all depends on your decision.

Among the control systems, there are also simple thermostats, which allow you to constantly maintain a predetermined temperature in the premises. When the values you set decrease or increase, it turns on or off the electricity, thus independently maintaining the desired temperature in the room.

Some models of thermostats require the installation of one of the programs that can take into account the time of day, as well as whether it is a weekend or a working day. Such smart control systems can turn on the heating at the right time before the owners return home and turn it off when no one is at home. But the modes are easily configured manually if your plans have changed. Thus, electric floor heating control systems are interesting and diverse. They make it easier and more convenient to use.

When choosing a system for organizing the main or additional heating of their home, the owners of the premises ask themselves: “How to choose warm electric floors?”. Simple tips and detailed reviews about manufacturers will help you find out the answer to it.

Underfloor heating systems are gaining more and more popularity. From an auxiliary solution for improving the comfort of apartments, they have become a full-fledged source of heating for suburban real estate. Heating elements are modernized and improved every year. Manufacturers offer customers more and more different powerful heating solutions, which are becoming more and more difficult to navigate. How to choose the optimal heating design for your needs?

Benefits of electric underfloor heating

Design versatility. Possibility of use in residential and non-residential buildings as both auxiliary and main source of heating.
They don't spoil. All structural elements are hidden from prying eyes, do not violate the integrity and aesthetics of the interior.
Temperature control accuracy. With the help of a thermostat, you can control the temperature in the room with an accuracy of 0.1 degrees.
Ease of installation. Some types of systems can be installed independently without the help of specialists.
Durability. Subject to the rules of operation, electric heating systems will last for decades.

Electric underfloor heating: a system that stands out for its durability

Uniform heating. Heat is distributed evenly on the surface, which allows you to fully warm up the room.
Possibility of partial repair. In the event of an underfloor heating failure, only the damaged area can be replaced without affecting the integrity of other structural elements.
Lack of additional equipment. Unlike a water floor, which will require the installation of a boiler, an electric floor will not require any auxiliary devices.
Application safety. The temperature of the heating element does not exceed the limits that are comfortable and safe for humans, which eliminates the possibility of burns.

Types of electric floors depending on the type of heating element

According to the type of heating element used, the following types of electric floor systems are distinguished:

Film. The film layer serves as the basic heating element. Installation of this design requires a minimum of effort - the film fits under any modern floor covering, pouring cement screed is not required. Suitable for use under laminate, parquet, linoleum. It is only important to observe the temperature regime recommended by the manufacturer for each finishing material. Popular are 2 options for the execution of a warm floor:

Carbon film. Lavsan film, between the two layers of which a grid of resistive material is laid. It is produced in ready-made rolls, which can be cut into sheets of suitable size. Radiate heat, mainly consisting of infrared waves. Such heaters warm the room and have a beneficial effect on the entire human body, healing it. The disadvantages of the system are its high cost and the likelihood of overheating in areas with installed furniture and appliances.
Bimetallic heaters. 2-layer construction - aluminum alloy and copper alloy. They also emit infrared waves and are produced in the form of rolls divided into small sections. Suitable for arranging floors of a floating type, they are not mounted in a layer of tile mix or cement.

Heating mats. The heating mat is a thin cable laid in a snake on a nylon mesh. Finished products are equipped with a thermostat and are completely ready for installation. The canvas can be easily cut into pieces of suitable sizes, which allows the system to be used in rooms of any shape and size. It is possible to organize a warm floor from mats at any stage of construction, even when the floor level has already been raised, the heating elements are very thin and do not require a layer of cement.

Scheme of installation of underfloor heating mats: even a beginner can handle installation

Mounting the structure is extremely simple - even an inexperienced specialist will cope with the task. The mat can be laid directly under the laminate "dry" or under the tiles, having previously applied a thin layer of special adhesive to it. The disadvantages of the systems include their rather high cost and the possibility of using them exclusively as an additional, not the main, source of heating.

Cable. The basis of the design is a single or two-core cable. It is laid with a snake on the metal base of the mounting structure and covered with a layer of cement screed. Differs in lower cost in comparison with heating mats. The cable is laid with different pitches, ensuring that a certain temperature is maintained even in cold rooms.

The arrangement of a system from a cable of standard thickness requires a mandatory screed layer of at least 3 cm, so such floors warm up longer. A thin cable does not require the arrangement of a cement layer, it combines the advantages of heating mats and cable systems. A professional and careful approach to installation is required.

Advice. When choosing a suitable system, taking into account the cost criterion, calculate not only the price of the floor itself, but also the costs of its installation and pouring the building screed (if the design requires it).

Underfloor heating cable construction: a solution with many advantages, but demanding on installation

How to choose the right electric floor heating

To determine the right underfloor heating system for your home, evaluate the following selection criteria:

Energy consumption. Each of the types of electric floor elements converts electrical energy into thermal energy with a very high efficiency, almost one to one. However, despite the efficiency declared by the manufacturer, the degree of insulation of your room should also be taken into account. In houses with thin cold walls, heat loss will be very significant, so energy consumption increases in proportion to the increase in the number of on / off cycles. In this case, it is worth choosing the most expensive and powerful systems that will pay for themselves during operation.
Appointment. For standard rooms in insulated buildings with a screed, cable floors are suitable; for bathrooms, it is preferable to use rod heating systems. In rooms where the screed is not planned to be poured, it is advisable to install film floors.
Reliability and durability. Cable systems are recognized as the most durable; leading manufacturers guarantee up to 20 years of uninterrupted operation. Rod and film floors have not yet been sufficiently tested, as they are relatively new products on the construction market.
Price. You should not choose the cheapest solution, because you buy a system for many years. In the event of its failure, it will be necessary to violate the integrity of the floor covering, spend money on building materials and replace failed heating elements. It is better to immediately trust trusted manufacturers. The floors of the brands REHAU, DEVI, CALEO, UNIMAT and affordable solutions from Teplolux are popular.

Choosing a warm floor should be based on the type of room, manufacturer and energy consumption of the device

Above were the main important nuances that you should pay attention to when buying a warm floor. Of course, there are individual cases, however, most often, the listed characteristics are enough for the coating corresponding to them to serve for many years.

Advice. By purchasing systems from trusted manufacturers, you get not only a guarantee of quality, but also the opportunity to take advantage of service repairs and maintenance.

Modern floor heating systems can completely replace the usual risers and batteries. Over time, more and more powerful and easy-to-install structures appear that change the usual ideas about the organization of heating in an apartment and a house.

Video: How to choose an electric underfloor heating

Most often, the installation of underfloor heating is not carried out independently, but certain specialists are invited for this. In order to control the quality of performance, it is necessary to have minimally critical knowledge in this area.

What do you need to know?

First of all, decide on the type of underfloor heating. They can be of two types:

Where to use which and why?

Warm floors as the main and additional type of heating are most often used:

in a country cottage or cottage

in an apartment building

In a private house, you are your own boss and are free to choose any type, option and any heating scheme. There are no restrictions here. But in the apartment there are already nuances and restrictions.

The choice of underfloor heating in an apartment building

In the apartment it can be taken from two sources:

The radiator heating system is inconvenient for two factors:

Accordingly, your heated floors will be idle for most of the year.

First, it's not cheap. And secondly, it takes up significant space in the room.

Theoretically, you can connect, but you need to provide a sufficiently low temperature for underfloor heating. A direct connection will be accompanied by a temperature of 70 degrees and above, and this will simply overheat the flooring.

The second DHW option is even worse. Since unauthorized heat extraction from hot water systems is prohibited.

You will not be able to legally formalize your connection in any instances. And if such a fact is revealed during the check, you can easily run into a fine. Plus, they will force you to dismantle everything at your own expense.

Therefore, most competent specialists do not recommend installing water-heated floors in an apartment building:

from heating systems inconvenient

from DHW is not possible

Of course, you can also come up with an autonomous container with water, but do not forget that the rules prohibit placing “wet zones” above the living quarters of neighbors. And a water-heated floor will just be considered such a zone. Unless you live on the first floor.

The only option left is electric underfloor heating.

But if you have a private house, then there is already a richer choice. It is possible to stop both on electric heating, and on water. But what is the best choice?

2 factors for choosing underfloor heating

Many still in such a situation make their choice in favor of water heated floors. This is explained by the fact that people are afraid of the influence of electromagnetic radiation on the body, which supposedly have electric heated floors.

Meanwhile, all manufacturers have long been required to have certificates and papers confirming the safety of their products. All heating cables are shielded.

If we take into account how many WiFi, GSM and other networks are around us, then electric floors are not the biggest evil. However, most of this does not convince them that they are right.

In their opinion, for the bathroom it might also work, but if this is the main heating in all rooms, then any headaches or illnesses will automatically be recorded about electric underfloor heating.

Water heated floors are absolutely harmless.

Well, the second important point is the absolute maintainability of water floors anywhere. Moreover, you can make such repairs yourself, at home.

In case of damage to the heating cable of the electric mat, you will either have to rip off the entire tile and replace it entirely, or call specialists with equipment for burning, and searching for a short circuit location with a thermal imager, with the subsequent installation of couplings.

Moreover, the search for some accidents, even for them, can cause certain insoluble difficulties.

Therefore, safety and maintainability are the two factors that incline for many the choice in favor of water-heated floors as the main source of heating. The electric option, however, remains only as an additional source of heat.

But the factors that can scare away from water heated floors:

You need a boiler, a mixing unit, a collector and much more, without which electric heating can easily be dispensed with.

constant revision work

Water replacement, scale on heating elements, pump breakdowns, leaks from low-quality pipes. In short, many water floor installers earn many times more, and not only with their laying, but also with further maintenance.

Naturally, it is beneficial for them to convince their customers about the dangers of electricity and warm floors based on them.

Personally, your choice should depend on two variables:

budget for installation and necessary aftercare

If there are no problems with this, then go ahead to the store for water floors.

lack of prejudice and faith in modern technology

If this is about you, then an electric underfloor heating is exactly what you need.

Electric underfloor heating

The two most popular varieties are:

Infrared film

What should I pay attention to when choosing an infrared film?

It is a sheet with soldered copper conductors. Between them with a very small gap, current coal paths are laid, which are the heating element.

First of all, look at the contacts. They must be soldered.

If they are made with pistons, such a connection is extremely unreliable. Excessive heating will occur here, creating a potential fire site.

The film acts as a separator between the underfloor heating base and the decorative coating. Therefore, it cannot be laid where the screed will be poured.

It won't fit under tiles. But it's perfect for:

under the carpet

linoleum

If a heating cable is laid under the same materials, then due to the distance between the turns (laying pitch), you will clearly feel the boundary between heat and cold - a thermal zebra.

The film heats the entire surface evenly. True, some are afraid that with such heating of the laminate, harmful substances will be released from it. And so you need to buy a special product labeled "for a warm floor."

This is not true. The sun heats up the laminate much more when it shines directly through the window. And nothing harmful comes out of it.

There are also concerns about the dryness of the air and the dust that warm floors inevitably raise up. Here everything depends not on the heating mode, the presence or absence of radiators in the rooms, but on ventilation.

Provide a regular supply of fresh air and there will be no problems. And if you clog all the windows, then you will suffocate even with central heating batteries.

Approximate calculation of electricity consumption when heating a house with underfloor heating film:

Heating cable and mat

Where is the best place to use heating cable? Where you will have a minimum screed, or tiles with glue - i.e. kitchen and bathroom.

As a rule, after the builders complete the work, there can no longer be any full-fledged screed. The maximum you have is 5-6cm.

If even less, then the choice is unequivocal - only a heating mat. It can be laid directly into the tile adhesive layer.

The disadvantage of an electric underfloor heating is that in addition to your room, you will also warm up the ceiling from below. At your own expense, you will also heat your neighbors.

You have a warm floor, they have a warm ceiling.

Table comparing the efficiency of heating cable and film infrared floors:

You can compare prices for the current day of underfloor heating with heating cable or mats and infrared film, as well as their components.

Water floors

A cake with water floors should ideally look like this:

pipes with heat carrier are mounted on this surface

then in the cake there is an adhesive layer and a tile or other coating

The approximate thickness of the entire plate is 130-140mm. Under this condition, all the heat will be spent on your room, and not go down.

Mistakes and rules when installing a warm floor

1 Do not use foil thin materials (3-4 mm), such as penofol, as a heater.

They are enough for a maximum of 1 season, or even less. Here is a visual video experiment of what happens with similar foil isols.

Don't waste your money. In addition, without reinforcement of a thin screed, as a result of the destruction of the foil insulation, subsidence and cracking of the floor covering may occur.

The best solution is to use extruded polystyrene foam with a density of 35 kg / m3 or multifoil as insulation.

The basis of the multifoil is air pockets in the form of tablets or pimples. They are very strong and you won't be able to crush them just like that.

You can easily walk on them for as long as you like. Moreover, the aluminum coating is applied on the reverse side, i. it is not possible to damage and corrode it with a screed.

2 Be sure to use edge insulation.

This is a kind of damper, which is laid along the perimeter of the slab with a warm floor. It is necessary to compensate for the expansion of the screed, which inevitably occurs when it is heated.

If this is not done, the concrete screed will rest against the walls and it will have two options, either to break these walls themselves, or to break itself. When pouring, the edge of the damper film should be above the screed, then the excess is cut off.

3 If you have a large pouring area (more than 20m2), it must be separated with a compensation tape.

Since all expansions during heating of such a concrete layer, only flanging cannot compensate.

4 The coil of a warm water floor must be from a single piece of pipe, without joints.

5 Never use compression fittings, i.e. those connections where there are nuts and threads.

None of this should get into your screed.

6 If the customer and the performer are poorly versed in the preparation of solutions, then the recommended height of a full-fledged screed should be 85mm or 7cm from the top wall of the heating element.

This thickness of concrete will help save you from cracking, even with not very high-quality cement.

In addition, 85mm helps with striping (thermal zebra). And finally, this is the inertia of such a screed.

If you have electricity as an energy source, at night at a cheaper rate you can “disperse” the warm floor and not turn on the boiler all day. The stored heat should be enough until the evening.

This mode of heating is approximately 3 times cheaper than usual.

7 Do not save and add a special plasticizer for underfloor heating to the screed.

Ultimately, you need to get concrete that will easily withstand temperature deformation.

8 Reinforcement is done as a last resort.

First of all, when you are forced to pour only 50-60mm of screed instead of 85mm. But if possible this should be avoided.

9 It is not necessary to cut any holes in the substrate to the concrete base, ostensibly for a quality hitch.

Even if this coupling occurs, everything will come off when the plate is first heated. The underfloor heating slab, figuratively speaking, should "float" without connection with the base and with the walls.

10 Do not pour mortar with empty floor pipes.

The system must be filled and the pressure must be 3 bar. This is primarily due to the need to preserve the geometry and shape of the pipe. Without pressure inside, it is easy to crush.