Narrow ridges are the advantages of technology. Beds for the lazy: photos, ideas, ways to implement them The best top dressing for smart beds

Hello. country moms! I want to show how we did narrow beds. I have quite a lot of experience working on such beds, but this year new house and a new site. Therefore, it is possible to show "from the wheels" what is being done and how. Maybe someone will benefit from our experience. I must say right away that I am not convincing anyone to switch to such gardening, I am simply sharing my experience. So, we have a piece of an abandoned site, on which all the grass was pulled out in the fall. we outline on it beds 45-50 cm wide of arbitrary length. It is desirable that they be located from north to south. But we have mountains, a plot on a slope, so we planned it the way it worked.
From the place where the bed is planned, we remove the sod, and transfer it to where the passages are planned, but there is no grass! Passage width from 70 to 90 cm.
If possible, we immediately sew up the bed with boards, slate, etc. material. Our task is to fence off the garden from the passage. Grass will grow in the aisles, which we will mow and walk barefoot. And the garden bed is a place that we NEVER step on! We dig up the earth in the garden with the introduction of what you have: compost, straw, manure, sand ... our task is to make the soil loose, because it digs ONCE and never digs again! In subsequent years, the soil in the garden is only loosened with a flat cutter.
In the background are beds 80 cm wide. They are intended for potatoes and watermelons. This is what they looked like in April. If you have nothing to sew up the beds, you can simply dig them up, and fill the aisles with sawdust (for example) We didn’t have enough turf, we designed part of the site differently
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Something like that. ) Narrow beds are often scolded for wide aisles. But the passages WORK for us! Let's calculate how many tomato bushes we plant in a "nested" way: given a distance of about 50x50, we get 4 bushes. If after 60 cm - even less. When planting tomatoes on narrow beds in one line, they are planted at a distance of 25 cm. If the bed is 45 cm + 70 cm, we will plant the same 4 bushes per square meter. BUT! With the traditional planting in the tomato bed, we don't plant anything else, because everyone needs to put a stake! In the narrow beds on both sides we can plant low crops. In our case, every centimeter is sown with carrots. Well, we love to make juice out of it! ) That is, about 40 carrots are added to 4 tomato bushes. Considering that it grows from the edge of the ridge, it grows by no means less than 200 grams each. Well, even if 150! That is, for 8 tomato bushes, we have at least 6 kg of carrots with square meter. And a minimum of work.

Given the specifics of the south, we plant tomatoes in trenches. Carrots are sown much earlier. Therefore, first we make a trench for future tomatoes, and then we sow carrots on the top (on the sides of the ridge). When the tomatoes are planted, everything is mulched with straw, grass, and uprooted weeds. This is how sotra "buffalo heart" tomatoes are blooming now. The width of the "bed" is 15 cm. It grows in the background curly beans, in the center - gladioli, garlic from the edge, which I plan to pull out in a month for the first jars. And these are cucumbers. At 7 meters with a width of 45 cm, 8 cucumbers were planted in the center. Strung over them plastic mesh. vertically. This is done so that the sun gets to both sides of the garden, because lettuce grows on our left, you can see how the onion sown with seeds has already grown stronger on the head. And on the right - radishes, dill and beets. Let's calculate that we will be given these 3.5 m2. From 8 bushes of cucumbers planted in this way, last year I salted 56 (!!!) liters of carnishons. + dill + onion + radish + dill that no one counts all season + about 5 kg of beets. Let them throw a slipper at me if they collect the same amount from a standard bed of 1.5 X2 m! So this year we planted strawberries. Garlic sits in the center, and beets sit between young bushes.

Those who are interested in the principles of organic farming, as well as those who would like to arrange their garden more intelligently and reduce their participation in the cultivation of vegetables.

Basic principles of smart farming:
1. Don't dig. Constant digging of the earth significantly worsens its structure and negates the work of soil organisms working for us gardeners.
2. Do not loosen more than 5 cm. For loosening and structuring, use green manure, compost, mulching.
3. Stimulate the development of soil living creatures. You need to give organics to the soil more than you take.
4. Don't leave the soil unoccupied. This green manure, mulch.
Among us, most of all are those who grow vegetables not for sale, but for themselves, for their families. And in fact, by processing a much smaller area of beds, we can get the same, and most likely even more, yield.
The literature describes many ways to arrange beds of a small area, using different principles of cultivation. For example, D. Mittlider developed his own system, according to which plants are planted in narrow beds filled with a neutral substrate (sawdust, for example, or expanded clay) and then watered with a carefully balanced fertilizer solution. Wide aisles are cleared of weeds completely.
Another option, popularized by N. Kurdyumov, is to create narrow beds in the form of trenches or boxes. Their width is 50 cm, length - any. Each bed is two rows of vegetables planted along the edges. There is a huge reserve of productivity hidden in this geometry. It has long been noticed: the extreme plants develop almost twice as well as those in the middle - they have much more light and space for growth.
More about trenches and boxes.
If your site is never flooded, this option is suitable: a narrow bed is planned in the form of a trench, directly from the soil. You need to orient the garden bed strictly north - south, so all plants will receive the same amount of sun. A trench 2 bayonets wide and a bayonet deep is dug right in the sod, for reliability and moisture conservation, roofing material or other similar material can be dug along the edges. Manure is laid at the bottom of the trench, ready-made compost is on top. Watering goes under the root, and water does not flow out of the garden. Plants are planted in two rows in a checkerboard pattern in a thickened pattern, they will all be extreme, get freedom and will develop perfectly. Landings are mulched with cut grass, sawdust, husks and therefore always remain wet. The width between the beds is from 60 to 100 cm. The inter-beds are periodically mowed and gradually turn into wonderful green paths. In the spring, such trenches look like this.

For humid northern areas, raised beds-boxes are suitable. A box is a stationary bed, fenced with boards made of boards, slate or other material, oriented strictly north-south.

The photo shows that as a result of this, the beds turned out to be non-perpendicular to the paths. The height of the bed is 15-20 cm, the width is half a meter, the spacing is from 60 to 100 cm. It is filled with compost. The bottom layer can be from semi-ripe manure or unripe compost, but on top you need to put a layer of ready-made humus, at least 6-7 cm.
We arranged boxes from boards 50 mm thick and 150 mm wide. The length in our case is 6 meters, but it can be any. The boards were impregnated with a bioprotective composition from Senezh, interconnected with the help of roofing corners.

The boxes were installed on top of the existing beds, that is, the bottom of the resulting box was already fertilized earlier, did not dig and had a good structure. In case of organization narrow bed-box on "dead" soil, initial digging is necessary. Since autumn, the entire volume has been filled "with a slide" with last year's manure. The main thing is to fertilize and water the box enough. Then you can grow two or three crops of different vegetables in it, from early spring to late autumn. With wire arcs or simple frame, the box easily turns into a greenhouse.
In the spring, such a raised bed warms up earlier. Plants sown before winter feel much better.

P.S. for Lyudmila (codling moth14)
At the end of May, a trench with planted peppers looks like this:

I made different beds in the garden (wide, square and others) and came to the conclusion that it is best to plant vegetables on narrow ones, and even in joint plantings. Why?

Narrow beds are easier to care for.

Since there are only 2-3 rows in the garden, all plants are at the edges, they are spacious, well ventilated and illuminated by the sun.

The soil is not trampled and compacted.

I made narrow beds a few years ago and I don’t change their position (I save myself by crop rotation). I marked the garden from north to south with pegs with stretched twine into strips of 45-50 cm (the width of the beds). I leveled them with a rake, raked up the sides 8-10 cm high. I made the passages 60 cm each.

I put a trellis under tall vegetables, with the bottom bar at a level of 25-30 cm from the ground. I attach a film to it in the spring to shelter plants from frost. Then, at a height of about 2 m, I fix top bar, and between them the average. I water the plants inside the beds, and in the summer I always mulch them.

ADVICE! Instead of earthen sides, the beds can be fenced with boards, slate or dug necks down close to each other with plastic bottles.

Narrow beds: our reference

According to the Mittlider technology, all vegetables, regardless of the size of the plants, are grown on narrow ridges only 45 cm wide. This is an indispensable element of the technology.

The optimal width of the passages is 105 cm. If the area is small, they can be narrowed to 80-90 cm, if necessary, to 60-75 cm.

The length of the Mittlider ridges is not regulated, but should be a multiple of 1-1.5 m. For example, 2 m, 3 m, 4.5 m, 6 m, 9 m.

If the site does not have a slope, it is preferable to orient the ridges from north to south. So the plants will shade each other less. On the small plot ridges are best placed parallel to its borders.

Astrakhan tomatoes ripen remarkably lying on the ground, but you should not repeat this experience in the Moscow region. Our tomatoes need support, support, a garter. My neighbors use all sorts of pegs, garters, loops, ready-made plant supports, and mesh fences. Each method of plant fixation in vertical position has its merits and side effects". I'll tell you how I place tomato bushes on trellises, and what comes of it.

Flies - a sign of unsanitary conditions and carriers infectious diseases hazardous to both humans and animals. People are constantly looking for ways to get rid of nasty insects. In this article, we will talk about the Zlobny TED brand, which specializes in fly protection products and knows a lot about them. The manufacturer has developed a specialized line of drugs to get rid of flying insects anywhere quickly, safely and without extra costs.

The summer months are the time for hydrangeas to bloom. This beautiful deciduous shrub is luxuriously fragrant with flowers from June to September. Florists willingly use large inflorescences for wedding decors and bouquets. To admire the beauty flowering bush hydrangeas in your garden, you should take care of the proper conditions for it. Unfortunately, some hydrangeas do not bloom year after year, despite the care and efforts of gardeners. Why this happens, we will tell in the article.

Every summer resident knows that plants need nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium for full development. These are the three main macronutrients, the deficiency of which significantly affects appearance and yield of plants, and in advanced cases can lead to their death. But at the same time, not everyone understands the importance of other macro- and microelements for plant health. And they are important not only in themselves, but also for the effective absorption of the same nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium.

garden strawberry, or strawberry, as we used to call it, is one of the early fragrant berries that summer generously endows us with. How we rejoice in this harvest! In order for the "berry boom" to repeat every year, we need to take care of the care of the berry bushes in the summer (after the end of fruiting). Bookmark flower buds, from which ovaries will form in spring, and berries in summer, begins approximately 30 days after the end of fruiting.

Spicy pickled watermelon is a savory snack for fatty meat. Watermelons and watermelon rinds pickled since time immemorial, but this process is laborious and time-consuming. According to my recipe, it’s easy to cook pickled watermelon in 10 minutes, and a spicy snack will be ready by the evening. The watermelon marinated with spices and chili is stored in the refrigerator for several days. Be sure to keep the jar in the refrigerator, not only for the sake of preservation - chilled, this snack is just licking your fingers!

Among the variety of species and hybrids of philodendrons, there are many plants, both gigantic and compact. But not a single species competes in unpretentiousness with the main modest - blushing philodendron. True, his modesty does not concern the appearance of the plant. Reddening stems and cuttings, huge leaves, long shoots, forming, although very large, but also strikingly elegant silhouette, look very elegant. Philodendron blushing requires only one thing - at least minimal care.

Thick Chickpea Soup with Vegetables and Egg is an easy recipe for a hearty first course inspired by Oriental cuisine. Similar thick soups are prepared in India, Morocco, countries South-East Asia. The tone is set by spices and seasonings - garlic, chili, ginger and a bouquet of spicy spices, which can be assembled to your liking. It is better to fry vegetables and spices in melted butter (ghee) or mix olive oil and butter in a saucepan, this, of course, is not the same, but it tastes similar.

Plum - well, who does not know her ?! She is loved by many gardeners. And all because it has an impressive list of varieties, it surprises excellent harvests, pleases with its variety in terms of ripening and a huge selection of color, shape and taste of fruits. Yes, somewhere she feels better, somewhere worse, but almost no summer resident refuses to grow her on her plot. Today it can be found not only in the south, in middle lane, but also in the Urals, in Siberia.

Many decorative and fruit crops, except for drought-resistant ones, suffer from the scorching sun, and conifers in the winter-spring period - from sunlight, enhanced by reflection from snow. In this article, we will talk about unique preparation to protect plants from sunburn and drought - Sunshet Agrosuccess. The problem is relevant for most regions of Russia. February and early March Sun rays become more active, and the plants are not yet ready for new conditions.

“Each vegetable has its own time”, and each plant has its own optimal time for planting. Anyone who has experienced planting is well aware that the hot season for planting is spring and autumn. This is due to several factors: in spring, the plants have not yet moved into explosive growth, there is no sweltering heat and precipitation often falls. However, no matter how hard we try, circumstances often develop in such a way that landings have to be carried out at the very height of summer.

Chile con carne translated from Spanish- chili with meat. This is a Texan and Mexican dish whose main ingredients are chili peppers and minced beef. In addition to the main products, there are onions, carrots, tomatoes, and beans. This red lentil chili recipe is delicious! The dish is fiery, burning, very satisfying and amazingly tasty! Can cook large saucepan, arrange in containers and freeze - a whole week will be a delicious dinner.

Cucumber is one of my favorites horticultural crops our gardeners. However, not all and not always gardeners manage to get really good harvest. And although growing cucumbers requires regular attention and care, there is a little secret that will significantly increase their yield. It's about pinching cucumbers. Why, how and when to pinch cucumbers, we will tell in the article. An important point The agricultural technique of cucumbers is their formation, or type of growth.

Now every gardener has the opportunity to grow absolutely environmentally friendly, healthy fruits and vegetables in own garden. The microbiological fertilizer Atlant will help in this. It contains helper bacteria that settle in the zone of the root system and begin to work for the benefit of the plant, allowing it to actively grow, stay healthy and give high yields. Usually, many microorganisms coexist around the root system of plants.

Summer is associated with beautiful flowers. Both in the garden and in the rooms you want to admire the luxurious inflorescences and touching flowers. And for this it is not at all necessary to use cut bouquets. In the range of the best indoor plants quite a few flowering species. They are in the summer when they get the most bright lighting and the optimal duration of daylight hours, can outshine any bouquet. Short-lived or just annual crops look like living bouquets.

Back in the nineties of the last century, the most progressive gardeners began to arrange their beds according to the principle of Jacob Mittlider, an American farming expert. The method of “narrow beds” turned all gardening traditions literally upside down: still, if it involves reducing the area of \u200b\u200bthe ridges themselves, and increasing the passages between them, on the contrary. How can we expect an increase in yields? It turns out that it is very possible!

Now, in the era of popularity among summer residents of organic farming, the Mittlider technique in pure form few people use it. But narrow beds to this day “work” in most bio-gardens for the benefit of the crop.

Why are narrow ridges so good compared to traditional ones? Let's try to understand the principles, features and advantages of narrow beds.

Narrow beds are considered to be beds with a width of 30 to 90 centimeters of arbitrary length with obligatory wide passages between them. The recommended width of the passage is 60-100 centimeters. At first glance, such a garden arrangement seems wasteful. usable area, but actually passes also have their own function. Yes and experience huge amount summer residents are convinced that a decrease in the area of \u200b\u200bridges on the size of the crop has a positive effect. This method takes not quantity, but quality!

General principles of functioning of a narrow bed

Why do vegetable and other crops grow and bear fruit better in a narrow garden? The fact is that, according to scientists, the soil provides food for plants only by 40%, and they get everything else from the air. Suddenly? But this is a fact. Pay attention to the outermost row of onions, carrots, radishes or parsley in your beds. There are always the largest and healthiest plants! Think about the terrible soils that grow city grass and trees that no one has ever fed. What do they survive on?

Wide passages between narrow beds are designed to provide each plant with enough air (primarily carbon dioxide) necessary for growth and development. There is no middle ground on a narrow bed, since crops are planted in one row or, in extreme cases, in two rows in a checkerboard pattern. That is, each row will be “extreme” and will receive a maximum of light and air. But do not forget that the passages must be either mulched or planted. lawn grass or . Growing canopy or decaying organic matter between rows releases a large number of carbon dioxide, from which crops in the beds grow by leaps and bounds.

Organic narrow beds. That is, you will need boxes made of boards, slate or other material and plant waste of various “calibers”, ranging from cardboard and paper to grass and foliage.

It is customary to place narrow beds from north to south on a flat horizontal surface of the site (so that water does not drain). In the future, you can do two things:

Method 1. First, remove the sod, if any, and dig up the ground, adding humus, manure, compost and others to the ridge organic fertilizers. Enclose the bed with a box 25 centimeters high, and spread the turf between the rows. No more digging required. The fertility of the ridges is maintained by mulching and/or growing green manure.

Method 2. Those who do not want to dig even once do otherwise. First, a box is knocked down from boards, logs or any other materials and placed on the ground. A layer of thick cardboard is laid at the bottom as an obstacle to perennial weeds and covered with sand. The second layer can be small branches, sunflower stalks, corn, straw, rotten apples, or kitchen waste. Then tops, foliage or mowed grass are laid. And finally, everything is sprinkled on top with a layer of earth or humus. To speed up the work of microorganisms, it would be better to shed the bed with a solution of EM preparations, manure or.

In whatever way we created the garden bed, it is imperative to take care of wide aisles. Most nice solution- plant passages with lawn grass, which in the future will be mowed for mulch. But it is not forbidden to simply cover the aisles with sawdust or mulch with weeds.

When the beds and passages are ready, you can safely exhale: now they will constantly serve faithfully in one place for several years.

Some of the benefits of organic narrow beds resonate with “ warm beds”, which is not surprising:

the bed is done once, but serves for many years;
no need to dig every year;
the number of weeds and pests is sharply reduced;
weeds are not pulled out by the roots, but are cut with a flat cutter, which is much faster and easier;
seeds and seedlings can be planted earlier, the earth in such beds warms up faster;
rains do not wash away the bed, due to the box, it retains moisture inside;
it is convenient to observe crop rotation.

But the narrow beds also have their own unique advantages:

plants in a narrow bed are equally well lit and receive unlimited access to air;
you don’t need to get up on narrow beds to get to a hard-to-reach vegetable from the “middle”, which means there will be no damage to the micro-roots that are located in the surface layer of the soil;
it is more convenient to process a narrow bed, it is more convenient to harvest from it - everything is in plain sight;
landings on a narrow bed are not thickened (one or two rows), so each plant is better ventilated, which reduces the incidence;
on a narrow bed it is easier to install arcs or other devices for temporary film shelter;
with the “narrow ridges - wide aisles” system, you can forget about clods of dirt from the garden: grass or mulch in the aisles will ensure cleanliness and beauty.

If you are not afraid to experiment on your site and are open to everything new or well-forgotten old, try out organic narrow beds next summer season. We are sure you will appreciate their convenience and productivity.

We wish you success and great harvests!