The process of preparing plants for winter is to. Preparation of coniferous plants for winter. Preparing for winter perennial flower plants, ornamental grasses, herbs

It implies not only the performance of work related to harvesting, but also a number of works related to preparing the garden for winter.

The main goal of preparing the garden for winter - it's a guarantee necessary conditions for a comfortable, safe wintering of plants, as well as the creation of all the prerequisites for good harvest on the next year.

Preparing the site for winter consists in performing the following types of work to prepare the garden for winter:

- pruning fruit and ornamental trees,

Removal of leaves from the territory of the site,

Whitewashing fruit and ornamental trees,

spraying plants,

tree treatment,

plant treatment,

Shelter plants for the winter.

Pruning fruit trees when preparing the garden for winter is carried out for sanitary purposes.

When pruning fruit trees, when preparing the garden for winter, diseased, infected and weak branches are removed first. Sections are cleaned with a garden knife and treated with a solution blue vitriol for disinfection. Large cuts must be covered with garden pitch. The bark of trees must be carefully inspected and destroyed by insect pests that have settled down for the winter. They are scraped off the trunks onto thick paper, which is then burned. If trapping belts were placed on the trees, they should also be removed and destroyed. Those pests that are located in trunk circles, will be destroyed by frost, but only if the ground under the trees and between the rows is well dug up.

Pruning of shrubs is also carried out for sanitary purposes.

During pruning of shrubs, unnecessary shoots and extra shoots, diseased and dried branches, as well as branches infected with pests are removed.

The shoots of raspberries and blackberries that bear fruit in the current season are cut out, and annual shoots are bent to the ground to improve wintering conditions.

Fallen leaves must be removed from the site when preparing the garden for winter. In the event that the foliage looks healthy and completely dry, not wet, it can be used to shelter heat-loving plants on the site for the winter. Otherwise, all the leaves must be collected and burned, since numerous garden pests can settle in them for the winter. Leaf harvesting is best done in dry, clear weather.

When preparing the garden for winter, this type should not be neglected. garden work like whitewash fruit trees.

Firstly, whitewashing fruit trees will help protect the bark of trees from winter frosts, as well as from sunburn, and Secondly, whitewashing protects the tree from rodents - mice and hares, especially if chemicals that poison or repel rodents are added to the composition for whitewashing.

Spraying trees and other plants before winterizing the garden is most effective way fight against harmful insects who are going to spend the winter under shelter garden plants.

Spraying of plants is carried out in dry, cloudy weather. It is desirable that after spraying the plants there should be no rain for three hours, otherwise the effect of spraying fruit trees and other garden plants will be significantly reduced.

Plants should go into wintering as healthy as possible, which is why, during the preparation of the garden for winter, it is necessary to carry out all the necessary measures for the treatment of trees and the treatment of other plants growing on the site.

All sore spots should be cut out, processed special preparations, sealed with garden pitch.

Timely treatment of trees and plants will allow next year have a guaranteed harvest.

The final stage of work on preparing the garden for winter is the shelter of plants for the winter.

Particularly heat-loving plants are covered with a special covering material - spruce branches, roofing felt, sawdust, and so on.

By using synthetic materials cover the trunks of fruit trees to protect them from being gnawed by small rodents.

P Correct and timely preparation of the garden for winter is the key to future good harvests.

Our experts will help you prepare your site for winter and will perform all types of work to prepare the garden for winter - pruning fruit trees, pruning shrubs, cleaning leaves, whitewashing fruit trees, spraying trees, spraying plants, treating trees, treating plants, sheltering plants for the winter.

Beautiful majestic and persistent coniferous plants remain the only decoration of the garden in the cold winter season. It is traditionally believed that they absolutely do not need any special preparation for the winter. And in most cases this is true. Mature plants - pines, spruces, larches, thujas and junipers, growing on the site for more than one year, can easily endure any harsh Russian winter. But even for them experienced gardeners recommend some preparations, which will allow the trees to feel comfortable even in the most severe frost. Not to mention tender young seedlings, which, without special preparation, can easily die in a harsh winter in a new place.

No matter how surprising it may sound, the main enemy coniferous plants winter is not cold, but drought and sunburn.

During periodic winter thaws, the needles begin to work actively, evaporating moisture in the process, and the roots of plants located in heavily frozen ground do not have time to replenish the rapidly wasted moisture reserve. As a result, the plant begins to dry out.

In order to avoid drying of the plant, in October-November, before the onset of persistent cold weather and freezing of the ground, coniferous plants carry out abundant moisture-charging watering. For each mature plant depending on age and weather conditions you will need at least two or three buckets of water.

Young seedlings with sunny side it is advisable to wrap it with any covering material, or protect it with a screen. Never cover the plant plastic wrap, under it, plants can be exposed to fungal diseases during winter thaws.

Of all coniferous plants, small dwarf crops are the least resistant to cold. As a rule, they endure the winter quite well under a snow cap. In the case when a little snowy winter falls, it is advisable to sprinkle such plants with additional snow, for example, from garden paths.

Western thuja, Canadian hemlock, some varieties of junipers, black pine and Serbian spruce, as well as any conifers subjected to regular shearing, do not tolerate severe frosts especially at a young age. It is advisable to completely wrap such plants for the winter with covering material.

Small conifers grown in containers can be moved to a bright, cool room with a temperature of about 5 C.

Another danger for coniferous winter is the threat of branch breaks. This can happen, for example, in the event of heavy wet snow. Snow, if possible, must be swept away in time, and vertically growing coniferous trees for the winter, it is desirable to tie with twine. To avoid the needles getting warm inside the crown, the branches should not be squeezed too tightly.

Young seedlings in late summer or early autumn it is important to treat with special preparations to combat diseases and pests. Periodically, they need to be inspected and in a timely manner to deal with often occurring problems.

And of course, do not neglect the fertilizer of conifers in the autumn. Phosphorus-potassium top dressing will help the shoots ripen and prepare for winter. At the same time, avoid applying nitrogen-containing fertilizers that stimulate the growth of young shoots.

Do not be alarmed if you suddenly find that the branches of some coniferous plants turn yellow by winter. Microbiota, Pseudotsuga green and some varieties of juniper really turn yellow for the winter, returning to their original appearance in the spring.

In winter, unpleasant “surprises” await our landings: withering, damping, soaking. These negative phenomena largely affect the winter hardiness of crops, their ability to survive in conditions of long negative temperatures. Each owner can increase the winter hardiness of his plants, minimize losses as a result of unfavorable wintering.

Winter hardiness and frost resistance

The concept of hardiness is often confused with frost resistance . However, in the latter case, we are talking only about resisting negative temperatures. Frost resistance is largely determined by the genetic characteristics of the crop or variety.

winter hardiness - a broader concept, the ability of plants, in addition to negative temperatures, to withstand a number of negative impacts environment in winter.

Adverse environmental factors:

winter drought,
ice crust,
decay,
bulge,
wetting of plants.

winter drought

Winter drought, at first glance, is absolutely not a winter concept. In fact, winter desiccation brings great losses and losses to the owners of gardens and orchards. As a result of freezing, the supply of water and mineral compounds dissolved in it to the roots and further to the stem, crown, which can subsequently freeze and die, is stopped.

Winter desiccation affects young annual shoots to a greater extent, which become dehydrated and dry out. precede this strong winds, high solar activity. Older trees and shrubs are less susceptible to drought in winter. They “prepared” in advance - they formed a thick protective cork layer.

To a greater extent, due to strong moisture loss, they suffer coniferous shrubs and trees, as well as larch trees, which did not get rid of foliage in time and continue to lose moisture. Trees can get severe sunburn, bark damage. Water or snow that gets into these cracks lingers in them and can later serve as a source of decay and other infections.

Damping out plants in winter

Another reason for low winter hardiness may be the damping of plants. When damped, the plants die from exhaustion as a result of a long stay under a thick snow cover. Landings under snow are affected high humidity air, lack of light, high temperatures. As a result, the supply of water and food is interrupted. Weakened and dehydrated plants become easily accessible to various diseases.

The most common causes of damping off are mild snowy winters, as well as a long delay in snow melting in spring due to established protective structures- snow guards or dense thickets of trees and shrubs, as well as an ice crust.

Bulging plants in winter

Plant bulging is the lifting of the top layers of the soil along with the plants. This happens with sharp changes in thaws and a decrease in soil temperature, especially in the absence of snow cover. In the first case, the soil thaws and settles. Further, at low temperatures, soil moisture freezes, gradually capturing the upper layers. The root system freezes, breaks off and, together with the soil, rises up.

Wet plants in winter

Wetting becomes very common cause damage and death of plants. In this case, the plant suffers equally if it is completely under water, or only individual organs have undergone prolonged moistening. This phenomenon is observed usually in the spring when the snow melts or due to prolonged thaws.

Melt water that has stagnated in the lowlands deprives the plants under it of the opportunity to receive oxygen. Plants are forced to switch to oxygen-free (anaerobic) respiration. In this case, they die from exhaustion or from poisoning by toxic substances formed in the water.

Ice crust in winter

Sometimes, simultaneously with soaking, the appearance of at least dangerous phenomenon- ice crust on snow. It is usually formed as a result of frequent changes of thaws and frosts. The ice cover prevents the penetration of air to the roots, forcing the plants to switch to anaerobic respiration. Freezing into ice, plants die either from hypothermia or from mechanical damage.

Preparing trees and shrubs for winter

In order to prepare trees and shrubs for wintering, it is necessary to carry out a number of procedures that will protect plants from adverse factors in winter. Plants will be ready for winter if, from the moment of planting and throughout the entire period, attention is paid to increasing winter hardiness.

Methods for increasing winter hardiness:

choice of zoned varieties,
sub-winter moisture-charging irrigation,
snow retention on the site,
autumn dressing,
tree whitewashing,
rodent protection,
autumn pruning,
pest control.

Choice of varieties and crops

One of the most important conditions good winter hardiness is the cultivation of crops or varieties adapted to specific climatic zones. After all, it is far from always that heat-loving crops adapt to colder or waterlogged conditions in other regions, and vice versa. Before planting new plants, carefully study the requirements for their normal growth and development, so as not to be disappointed later in the wasted efforts and means.

Autumn watering plants

Winter hardiness of plants largely depends on how they survive autumn. If in summer and autumn periods drought was observed, then due to lack of water, one should not expect a good wintering from your landings. Therefore, one of the measures to improve the overwintering of plants is the mandatory watering of trees, shrubs, flowers and other plantings that remain to winter outside. However, if summer early autumn were rainy, then additional watering is not required. Excess moisture will contribute to the occurrence of infections, decay and, consequently, a decrease in plant immunity.

Snow retention will help transfer low temperatures and cold winds to wintering under snow.

Autumn plant nutrition

Shrubs and berry bushes, abundantly bearing fruit in summer, gave a lot of strength with the harvest. Help them, weakened, not to perish in the winter. Feed after harvest phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, you can add ash. And they will delight you again next year excellent harvest. nitrogen fertilizers do not use. They will promote the growth of branches and shoots, spending nutrients, so necessary for the upcoming wintering. As a result, we get the opposite effect - winter hardiness will decrease.

Whitewashing plants

Autumn whitewashing of trunks will protect them from sunburn, cracking and damage by diseases and pests in winter and afterwards.

Whitewashing trees in autumn (video)

Protection of plants from rodents

At the same time, care should be taken to protect against rodents. To do this, wrap the trunks of trees and shrubs with roofing material. Many experienced gardeners also use old nylon products (stockings, tights). I can give another proven recipe: whitewash the trunks with a "talker" of cow dung and clay (1: 1), with the addition of a small amount of turpentine or carbolic acid.

Autumn pruning of plants

Autumn is the perfect time to prune branches of trees and shrubs for better hardening. The flow of sap has already stopped, and minimal damage will be done to the plants.

Autumn treatment for diseases and pests

Only healthy trees and bushes will overwinter well. If any infections were observed on bushes or trees before leaving for the winter, then it is necessary to treat them with fungicides. Remove plant debris, foliage, where spores of fungal diseases can overwinter.

To combat pests and diseases, late autumn treatment with a solution of urea (0.5 kg per 10 liters of water) will help. It is impossible to leave spoiled fruits, dried leaves, nests of hawthorn and golden tail, dead bark, pupae, larvae and adult insects on the trees.

Autumn is the most right time for agrotechnical measures that improve soil structure: liming acidic soils, sanding on heavy substrates.

These simple activities will help you and the plants in your gardens “survive without consequences” the winter.

Flowers of perennial asters under the snow in late October

Winter is a difficult time in the life of many perennial flowers, trees and shrubs. Some of them need to be insulated or transferred for the winter to frost-proof rooms. We must not forget that rest is needed not only for people, but also for most plants. Therefore, it is so important to create comfortable conditions for the dormant period, which usually occurs during the winter months.

Winter trials

Amateur flower growers and gardeners in the fall try to make sure that biennial and perennial flowers, trees and shrubs do not suffer in the winter-spring period. The beginning of winter is the most difficult time in the life of most plants. Especially if the snow has not yet fallen, and the air temperature has dropped sharply. In some years, the thermometer showed minus 18 - 20? C, and the earth remained bare. Even frost-resistant primroses do not withstand such a test. But what about those perennials that were planted at the end of autumn, and they have not yet had time to develop a developed root system? Snowy winter also does not always guarantee the safety of plants. Often, branches break due to heavy snowdrifts. Snow that gets wet during thaws causes some plants to rot. And how much damage rodents do! By the way, spruce branches and hazel grouse, the garlic smell of which they cannot stand, are good protection against mice. Winter and spring temperature fluctuations provoke premature awakening of plants and seed germination. In early spring the bright sun disfigures the needles and burns the bark. At this time, the snow settles, and frosts are fierce in winter. Yes and melt water, accumulated in low places, bring more harm than good.

We warm and cover the plants

They say that snow does not fall on wet ground. At the end of autumn it often freezes, and there is either no snow cover, or it is insignificant. In this case, hilling (filling) of the earth (humus, peat) helps. However, even our best intentions do not always lead to success. Once, in late autumn, I generously poured peat under all the lilacs and the next year I lost two bushes. Peat not only acidified the soil, but by the beginning of summer it turned out to be a barrier that did not allow water to reach the roots. Until now, I remember with regret how, out of inexperience, I tied the trunk of a young pear with a multi-layered lutrasil. They promised a cold frosty winter, but there was a long winter with frequent thaws. In the spring, it turned out that the whole bark under the constantly wet lutrasil was sopored.

Sometimes fallen leaves or cut stems of perennial flowers are used as a heater, which threatens with bacterial and fungal infections. I almost lost mine blue spruce, sprinkling the soil under it with half-rotted leaves in late autumn. It is believed that oak leaves do not rot for a long time, so they are suitable for warming many plants. You can use spruce branches, shavings, non-woven fabric or burlap as a shelter. The tied ends of spruce branches turn into a wonderful shelter-hut. For many plants, the most reliable is an air-dry shelter, which is made from roofing material or boards nailed to a rigid frame. Metal or stone is not best materials for shelter, they will do more harm than good. Do not insulate plants with paper or cardboard - this material quickly soaks. Use the tips described in the article "".

These plants should not be left in the cold

Tuberous begonia. After the first autumn frosts, all stems are cut at the base. Then the tubers are dug together with a clod of earth, slightly dried and placed in one row in boxes. You can store the tubers in dry peat (sand) or leave them without removing them in the same containers in which the begonia grew in the summer. Storage temperature - plus 5 - 10?

Gladiolus. Corms are dug up in dry weather until October 15 (weather permitting). You can read about how to store them in the article ""

They dig after them haltonia, then corms acidants, and in the last decade of October - montbrecia.

Cannes. After the first frost, the stem is cut off, leaving stumps about 15 cm high. After that, the rhizomes are carefully dug up. They are placed in boxes (the soil is not shaken off). For the winter, the containers are transferred to a cool basement.

I move to a cool room , pelargonium, dope and other plants. I do a cut first. I transplant into flower pots petunias that continue to bloom, silvery cineraria, fruiting undersized tomatoes and peppers. Before bringing them into the house, I check if there are whiteflies on the leaves.

good cover

Heather and Erica. Shelter begins when the soil is slightly frozen. Dry peat or chopped spruce branches are poured to the base of the bushes with a layer of 10 cm. Spruce branches are placed on top of the plants.

Clematis. For the winter, only those clematis that bloom on the shoots of the current year are cut short. I cover young creepers with inverted ceramic flower pots(upside down), I pour shavings or other suitable insulation on them. Clematis, blooming on the shoots of last year, I cover without pruning. Too long lashes I shorten. After all the shoots are removed from the supports, they need to be laid in a ring on the ground and covered with spruce branches. On the most valuable adult bushes, I put spruce branches or shavings, cover with boards on top. Be sure to put logs under the boards, slightly raising them above the ground (for ventilation).

Bearded irises. Mid-November and still no snow.

Perennials wintering outdoors

In September (according to the weather), the ground part of the aquilegia, astilba, delphinium, irises, bluebell, peonies, primroses, rudbeckia, phlox and other flowers is removed. You can leave low stumps up to 5 cm high. Then they pour compost or loose garden soil on the place where they grow. This is especially important for gelenium and bearded irises, which come out of the ground to expose their roots. Perennials planted in autumn must be insulated with compost or peat. Spruce branches are laid on top.

Bulbous. Successful cultivation bulbous is largely related to the timing and depth of their planting. Sometimes in a warm, long autumn, bulbs (especially tulips) germinate. Their sprouts need to be sprinkled with soil. Less winter-hardy species and varieties require additional shelter for the winter.

Rhododendrons. Young evergreen rhododendrons are pre-spudded, then wrapped with non-woven material or covered with spruce branches. Deciduous rhododendrons bent to the ground, laid on a spruce branch and pinned. Top cover with spruce branches.

Forsythia. The branches of young plants are bent and pinned to the ground. Larger bushes should preferably be insulated with a special covering material. In winter, more snow is thrown on all the bushes.

Coniferous. Many conifers (especially) suffer from sunburn. Their crown is covered with burlap or dense non-woven material. This can be done not in the fall, but in the middle of winter. Young plants and less winter-hardy species require careful warming.

Winter crops sprinkled with loose earth or dry peat, then covered with thick lutrasil or spruce branches. Seeds are placed in pre-prepared furrows on frozen ground. Blue cornflower, anemone, gypsophila, godetia, Ajax delphinium, Iberis, calendula, cosmos, swimsuit, lavater, lobularia, lupine, malcolmia, matthiola, mignonette, eryngium, Drummond's phlox, escholcia and other flowers are sown for the winter.

Fruit trees also need protection from winter hardships. At the very beginning of autumn, I water all the trees and shrubs well. Be sure to rake up fallen leaves. In late autumn, I cover the ground under trees and shrubs with humus.

P.S. AT recent times I increasingly replace with large chips, dense lutrasil and others suitable materials. I use prickly twigs left over from.

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Raspberry- The plant is moderately hardy. However, its biological form of development allows raspberries to overwinter even in very severe frosts under the shelter of a thick snow cover.

Unlike all others berry bushes raspberries bloom late, already in June, and therefore its flowers are not damaged by spring frosts. Even in years with cold winters, when the flower buds of many fruit and berry crops are severely damaged by frost, bloom weakly and practically do not bear fruit, raspberries wintered under a thick layer of snow always give a full harvest.

Rejuvenation of old bark on fruit trees

Cleaning the trunk and main skeletal branches of fruit trees from old dead bark, lichen, moss should be carried out annually. It is advisable to carry out such work in the fall, after autumn leaf fall. Then the effect of such cleaning will be double: you will heal the wounds, and you will get rid of the pests that have settled for the winter in the bark.

Covering plants for the winter

Even meteorologists cannot know in advance what the winter will be like. Therefore, the most prudent gardeners in a timely manner, already in September, begin to prepare their garden for winter. October - November cover plants for the winter for reliable protection from winds and frosts.

Shelter of roses for the winter

Once a constant is established subzero temperature-4 -6 0 C and the topsoil will slightly freeze, you can cover roses for the winter. AT middle lane In Russia, roses do not die from frost, but from dampness. Shoots need air space for the plant to breathe.

Covering non-woven material (agrospan, lutrasil)

Covering non-woven material (agrospan, lutrasil) greatly facilitated the life of gardeners and flower growers. It also helps out in the spring, protecting seedlings or seed crops from return frosts, and in summer, protecting plants from the scorching sun, and in autumn, continuing the vegetative period of heat-loving vegetables, and in winter, preserving perennials from severe frosts.

Garden calendar: September

Autumn is the most generous time of the year. All autumn plants- this is a magnificent abundance of flowers, large bushes, powerful shoots. Continues wild bloom chrysanthemums. September is the turn late varieties. At this time, withered heads do not break off - the formation of seeds stops the growth of young shoots, promotes better preparation plants for winter. Dahlias are blooming. They are no longer watered, they stop loosening the soil around the bushes. As needed, the bushes are tied up, withered inflorescences are cut off.

Garden calendar: October

In November, the first frosts seize the soil, it's time to cover the plants for the winter. Inexperienced gardeners make a very common mistake, rushing to do it as soon as possible, before the frost has come. But winters are terrible not only with cold, often plants suffer from mold and fungal diseases under a thick snow blanket.