How to plaster a doorway with your own hands. How to plaster door slopes - the main stages of work. What you need to know

How to plaster door slopes? This question interests many people both when installing a new door and when carrying out repairs. The life of the doorway directly depends on the quality of work.

In order for the doorway to serve you for more than one year, you need to pay great attention to the correct creation of slopes. Today you can find a wide variety of materials in order to make door slopes of the highest quality, practical and, of course, beautiful. The most popular materials include:

Drywall, which is able to quickly solve the problems of uneven surfaces. The main advantage of using this material is that you do not need to build a frame installation to create slopes.
Plastic. These products should be used only if you have installed plastic doors in the house. If you want to combine PVC with other materials, get ready that the slopes will stand out very much against the background of such doors.
Natural wood. Wood, of course, goes well with almost any interior, but the creation of such slopes can cost you quite a lot, because the price of natural wood is quite high.
The cheapest and fastest method of creating slopes is their plastering. In addition, plastering has other advantages: a high level of strength, a long service life and a low price. In this case, you just need to cover the slopes with plaster, after which the products can be painted, varnished or another finishing method.

It is about how to plaster door slopes that we will talk today. And also tell you how to carry out a fine finish so that the slopes look great.

Like any finishing work, door slopes are plastered using certain materials. When preparing a mixture of plaster, one should not save on cement, otherwise, after a while, the coating may simply fall off. The most optimal proportion is considered to be the preparation of a composition from 1 part of cement and 3 parts of sand, while it is best to use river sand, which contains a minimum amount of clay.

If the decoration is carried out indoors, then it is better to prepare a mixture with a small amount of alabaster - it will make it easier to work with the upper slopes. This point is especially important if the jumpers are curved. That is why the large thickness of the composition coating is so important - so that the mixture can hold in such difficult places. For reliability, you can use a masonry mesh. Before proceeding directly to work, you need, as you already understood, to acquire the necessary tools and carry out preparations.

So, be sure to clean the base, removing paint, wallpaper or other finishing materials, remove old plaster, and thoroughly clean stains and dirt using soapy water and degreasing agents. A very important step is the priming of the surface, which not only provides high-quality adhesion, but also prevents the spread of pathogenic bacteria and rot, which can appear under the plaster as a result of temperature changes or high humidity.

To carry out this stage, it is desirable to use a deep penetration primer or focus on the material from which the base is made (concrete, wood, drywall, brick).

How to plaster door slopes - step by step diagram

Step 1: Installing Beacons

To mount beacons, either aluminum profiles or flat wooden slats are used, which are installed using alabaster or fastened with self-tapping screws. The main thing is to use the building level so that the slats are parallel to each other, otherwise the slopes will turn out to be curved.

Step 2: Making Notches

In fact, plastering the door slopes is not the last step in ennobling the doorway. Undoubtedly, many end up with simple plaster, but there are other methods that will allow you to give the surface a more aesthetic appearance.. Naturally, the choice of materials in this case depends on the interior of your home. When choosing materials, also rely on the following recommendations:

If we are talking about internal slopes, it should be borne in mind that they will be exposed to dirt and dust, and therefore the slope material in this case must be well cleaned.
Speaking about entrance doors, especially in a private house, it should be remembered that the slopes will be exposed to moisture - temperature drops inside and outside the room often lead to condensation. Some finishing materials do not perceive moisture at all or quickly deteriorate under its influence. In this case, it is advisable not to use GKL sheets and wood.
Do not forget that slopes can be subject to mechanical stress, which also needs to be taken into account. That is why it is undesirable to use plastic products for entrance doors, which are very easy to damage.

We told you how to plaster door slopes, which means it's time to ennoble the appearance of your home, because doors play an important role in this.

Making door slopes is an obligatory part of a major overhaul or decoration of a newly built house. Plastering can be considered a classic design today. This method, although it takes a lot of time, is the most reliable: with such a finish, there are no voids left. Although this is not an easy task, but, subject to technology, do-it-yourself plastering of slopes can also be done at a good level. In any case, you can prepare the surface for wallpapering yourself.

How to plaster slopes

What plaster is better to plaster slopes? It is easier to work with Knauf compounds, cheaper - cement-sand. Which is better for you is up to you.

Technology

Plastering slopes begins after the surface of the main walls is leveled. The work to be done is dirty, therefore it is desirable to close the door leaf, floor and door frame with film, oilcloth or other similar materials. The jamb can be pasted over with masking tape - it will be easier to clean.

Training

The first stage of work is the preparation of surfaces. First, poorly adhering plaster, pieces of brick, and other building material are removed. If the doors have been changed, the old plaster can stick out a lot. In this case, even if it holds up well, it is beaten.

Then, grease or oil stains, if any, are treated with neutralizers. Old paint is also cleaned off: plaster does not adhere well to it. After that, dust and dirt are removed.

If the cracks didn't foam when you installed the door, you'll need to do it now. Mounting foam is applied to the wetted surface in volume - no more than 1/3 of the required amount. First, all the dust is cleaned, then moistened with a spray bottle. After a few minutes, it will greatly increase in size, filling in all the empty gaps. After waiting for the foam to polymerize (harden), the excess is cut off with a knife. It is more convenient to do this with ordinary stationery for paper.

If plastering will be a cement-sand mortar, the surface is moistened. This can be done from the same spray gun or with a brush, roller.

We expose the guides

Plastering slopes with your own hands, as well as walls, is more convenient along the guides. Outside the doorway, in order to obtain a smooth and rigid edge, a perforated paint corner is usually placed. Well fixed, it can be used as a guide.

It is cut to the height of the doorway. The upper edge of the corner, which will be adjacent to the main wall, is cut down at an angle of 45 °. It is better to do this, because for some reason this edge always lifts up during work and causes a lot of inconvenience.

You can fix the corner in several ways:

Having pressed the corner well, it is leveled so that its edge is flush with the main wall. The solution that has come out through the holes is removed with a spatula. Then they take an even bar (you can use a building level or a rule), apply it to the corner, checking how evenly the corner is set. They check both from the side of the main wall and from the side of the slope.

The procedure is repeated on the other side, and then on top. At the junction of the corners, the absence of drops can be checked by running a finger along the junction.

There is another way to fasten the corners - on nails or on self-tapping screws. This method is good when working with drywall, but it is not used for plastering: the hats interfere.

The second guide is the door jamb. When installing the door, they were set exactly, so this is a good guideline. But since the solution should not cover the entire surface of the jamb, a template is cut out of some dense material, with which the solution is then leveled. It is better to cut it out of a piece of plastic: the edge is even, and it glides well, and is quite dense. You can use a piece of flat wooden plank. Only the edge that will cut off the excess solution should be perfectly flat. The part of the template that will slide along the jamb is made in the form of a step. This protrusion will remove excess solution.

You can work with a spatula or a rule, but then a beacon is installed and fixed along the jamb at the required distance. The tool rests on it when cutting off excess mortar.

In this video tutorial on plastering slopes, the technology for attaching perforated corners is explained in detail, explanations are given regarding the technique of applying putty during a fine finish.

Do-it-yourself rough plastering of slopes

The process of applying plaster to a slope is no different: a solution is thrown onto a dust-free and wetted surface. They do this with a wide spatula or a paint bucket - whoever is used to it. It is more convenient to start from the bottom, moving up.

Leading the rule or template along the guides, shaking from side to side, the solution is leveled, the excess is removed back into the container. For the first penetration, you can not achieve a particularly flat surface, but be sure to monitor the condition of the corners - remove excess mortar regularly.

Plaster slopes are made in two stages: the first is rough, the second is finishing.

Some problems may arise when plastering the upper slope: it is more difficult to apply the mortar here. It is taken with a wide trowel (spatula) and slightly pressed, applied with a small broach. If the surface is rough, there is usually no problem. They can occur if a concrete beam is installed on top. To such a surface, the solution, especially cement-sand, “sticks” badly. In this case, it is necessary to pre-impregnate it with a primer, which serves to improve adhesion (adhesion) with finishing materials.

It may also be necessary to process if the surface on which the DSP plaster is applied strongly absorbs water (silicate and clinker bricks, for example). Only in this case, the primer should still reduce the absorption of moisture. The second way out is to use special Knauf formulations - they do not react so sharply to a lack of fluid. And the third way is to apply a layer of tile adhesive to the surface treated with primers, forming a wave with a notched trowel. Tile adhesive remarkably "clings" to the most difficult surfaces, and itself serves as a wonderful base.

If all this seems very complicated to you, read the article on how. Everything is extremely simple there. No mortars and spatulas, and the result is excellent. Or you can do. The view is almost the same, but done faster. After you can.

Finishing layer

After some time, or the next day, the dried plaster is leveled, applying a second finishing layer. It is impossible to start leveling too early - the solution “floats”, loses its shape. Touch the plastered surface: the mortar should crumble, but not “float”.

For fine alignment, the solution is made a little more liquid. It is also applied and stretched. Only this time you need to make sure that the surface is even. If necessary, the solution is re-added to the voids, filling even minor pits.

Grout

This step creates a perfectly flat surface. You can overwrite the plaster only after the mortar has set. This should take at least 16-24 hours (depending on humidity and temperature). To determine if you can start grouting, take a little grout from the wall in your fingers and rub it. If it crumbles - you can work, if it is smeared - we are waiting for more.

The solution is made even more liquid. It is no longer applied, but rather poured onto the surface. And it is distributed not with a spatula or template, but with a grater - a foam surface with a handle. With this grater, the solution is distributed over the surface in a circular motion. At the same time, the plaster becomes even, monophonic. This procedure is optional, especially if then everything will be puttied. But this is how your do-it-yourself plastering of slopes takes on a finished look. But again, this is not necessary.

This video shows how to plaster door slopes with cement-sand plaster. The case is not easy, the explanations are detailed, only in some places the sound is not the best.

Finishing of plastered slopes

If further the slope is painted, the putty is perfectly leveled. To do this, apply two layers: starting and finishing. The starting putty has a larger grain, it can be laid in a layer up to 1 cm. With its help, all flaws that are difficult to remove with cement mortar are eliminated. After the finishing putty dries, all the bumps and protrusions are polished with a special mesh. After that, a layer of finishing plaster is applied. It is even more plastic than the starting one, and it can be applied in a very thin layer. With its help, you can achieve perfect smoothness.

For a beginner plasterer, getting a perfectly flat surface for painting is very difficult. It is much easier to level the slope for wallpapering. In this case, you can stop at the starting putty.

If the old slopes were slightly damaged during the installation of the door and they can simply be restored, there will be less work. It will only be necessary to throw a cavity with a solution and level it with a long trowel (trowel).

Stucco doorway

Sometimes doors are not placed in the opening, but in this case, the doorway requires finishing. And the easiest way to do this is with plaster. The technology of the plaster itself is similar, but the guides and their installation methods are different.

The plastering of the doorway begins only after both adjoining walls have already been plastered. The opening itself is covered with a primer (the principle of selection is the same).

Guides are installed from the sides. These can be boards, metal profiles, two rules, pieces of plastic, fiberboard, etc. One is installed on the right, the second - on the left, they are fixed. The easiest way to fix them is with clamps. If there are no clamps, you can use nails or screws - the remaining holes will then need to be carefully repaired.

The leading edges of the guides will serve as the basis on which the rule or wide spatula will move. The sequence of actions is the same: the first layer is rough, the second is finishing, if it is necessary to bring it to an ideal state, grout is done. For more information on how to putty a doorway, see the video.

If the apartment is being renovated and windows and doors are being changed, then after their installation the question arises: how to plaster the slopes? To do this correctly, it is necessary to prepare the materials and tools necessary for this process. This work is done from any angle.

Slope plastering.

Door slopes are trimmed both from the inside and from the outside of the apartment, and in the second case it will be necessary to use frost-resistant and moisture-resistant materials. For the interior finishing of slopes, special solutions are used, a wide selection of which is available in the construction markets and in specialized stores.

What materials are needed for work?

The following materials are used for finishing slopes:

wooden slats are the most environmentally friendly material;
polyvinyl chloride (PVC);
plaster mixtures that are specially designed for these works.

Wood is very often used in finishing doorways, and plastic is best suited for similar work on windows, which at the present time are most often made of plastic. It takes no more than a day to install them, and at the same time cleanliness is maintained in the room.

Plastering of door slopes.

The most durable slopes (and also environmentally friendly) are obtained using plaster mixes. They do not need edging, and there are no seams on them. They are convenient to use when repairing a new apartment, when plastering work is done on the walls, which takes a lot of time.

Plastering slopes is a classic way to finish them. Often it is necessary to cover arched surfaces on doors and windows, and then this finishing method may be the only one suitable for execution, since plaster makes it possible to finish slopes of any length and width.

Related article: Fencing from corrugated board

It has sufficient mechanical strength, easy to upgrade or repair. When applying plaster, the structure looks integral, since all the cracks are filled, and the material itself provides additional surface insulation.

Based on the foregoing, it is best to use a plaster mixture for self-finishing door slopes.

How to plaster slopes with your own hands?

After the necessary tools and materials are collected, the workflow begins. If the work is started from scratch, then the first step is to mount the door frame and perform plaster work on the surface of the walls of the room. Then they move on to the door slopes.

Tools needed for plastering work.

The technology for its implementation is as follows:

First you need to check the strength and reliability of the installation of the door.
A solution is being prepared for plastering the opening, which is made in the ratio of one part of cement and three parts of sand.
They stuff a wooden lath on the corner.
A template of the desired width is made from durable sheet material, such as cardboard, plastic or iron. With it, trim the layer of plaster applied to the surface of the slope. To do this, wooden or metal slats are installed on the sides of the doors, the mixture is applied, pressing the template made against them (it is led from the bottom up).
Smooth out the layer of plaster.
Plumb and level check the verticality of the created surface.
If the door in the opening is not needed, then you still need to finish the slopes. In this case, metal profiles are mounted on its two sides - squares, which will then serve to additionally protect the corners from shedding and mechanical stress. An empty space is formed between the profiles, which is filled with a plaster solution. Excess is immediately removed. When the mixture dries, you can start finishing the surface.
If there is an arched opening, its side surfaces must be plastered in the same way as described above for a doorway without a door installed, using metal squares. The rounding of the arch is processed like this. On the side slopes already made, marks are made of the edges of the roundness. Then it is reinforced with wire mesh or reinforcement. We need to make templates from plywood. You will need two pieces on which the desired radius of the arch will be set. Templates are reinforced with dowels. A void is created. It is filled with mounting foam, on top of which the plaster mixture is applied. The radius of the arch is displayed using templates using a semicircular tool - half a meter. After the plaster has completely dried, they start painting or pasting the rounding, after removing the templates and applying putty to its surface.
If after these works it is necessary to paint the walls and slopes or paste over them with wallpaper, then first all these surfaces are puttied.

Finishing the doorway can be done with various materials, but more often the owners choose to plaster the slopes of the front door. It is durable, monolithic, the least expensive.

How to plaster a doorway for a beginner with his own hands will be interesting not only to those who take a spatula in their hands for the first time. Those who, after installing a new door block, invited craftsmen to plaster, the information may also come in handy.

Particular attention should be paid to finishing, because the front door itself, as well as the slopes of the doorway at the entrance to a dwelling, office or other premises, are the first thing a visitor sees, as well as the first structural detail that not only protects the premises from unnecessary visits, but also a barrier to cold, external noise. Therefore, when finishing a new building, repairing or replacing a door frame, special attention is paid to doorways.

How to plaster door slopes

If alignment is performed using the rule, then in addition to the corner, a beacon is installed. It can be a metal profile, a wooden rail or a mortar track.

After plastering, the lighthouse bar is removed from the set solution. The corners are not removed, they serve as a reinforcement of the rib.

Notching and reinforcement

For applying notches on slopes with your own hands, it is effective to use bush hammers. This is a hammer with metal pyramids or cone-shaped protrusions on the working surface. Separate notches can be stuffed with a chisel or a perforator with a bush hammer (in impact mode). Notches form irregularities, for which the plaster layer easily clings. Great depth of notches is not required. 5 mm is enough. The length of the grooves can be 5-10 cm.

To strengthen the plaster coating, it is reinforced. For this, a metal or polymer mesh is used. It is advisable to purchase a metal mesh from stainless steel with a cell side of 10-40 mm. The mesh fabric is cut into strips of the desired length, attached to the wall with nails (self-tapping screws) or tied to the reinforcement outlets.

At the end of the preparatory stage, the plaster composition is kneaded, following the manufacturer's instructions. Apply the solution from the bottom. Put it on the surface of the site with a spatula, then align it with a rule or template along the guides.

The technology is similar to aligning walls with lighthouses. First, the sidewalls are plastered, then they move on to the top.

In order to evenly plaster the slopes at the doors, the rule (or template) is not driven in a straight line, but with a slight cyclic displacement of the tool (zigzag).

This generates vibrations in the plaster mass, and it “floats”, liquefying. This is similar to the action of a vibrator in concrete. With the help of such a simple technique, they achieve better styling and easy smoothing of the surface.

Finishing work

About what the finish will be, they think over in advance. After plastering the door slopes, the surface is brought to the “finish”, which is painting, wallpapering or cladding, for example, with artificial stone. The surface can also be coated. Each topcoat requires its own degree of smoothness.

For the installation of facing materials, wallpaper or the application of decorative plaster, special smoothness is not required. But for a thin layer of paint film, simply wiping the plaster mortar is not enough. It is necessary to putty the surface.

Do it in sequence:

after the solution dries, the surface is cleaned with a spatula, removing lumps of the dried solution, the influxes are ground off;
the coating is primed and dried;
apply with a trowel and level first a thin layer of starting putty, then a layer of finishing putty;
the top of the last layer, if necessary, grind, remove dust.

Some paint formulations require pre-priming.

Plastering of arched door slopes

When arranging openings in the form of arches, the side straight sections are made as usual. And the plastering of the arched slopes of the front door is carried out according to a specially made plywood template. Another feature is the mandatory reinforcement of the curved section.

For an interior arched doorway, two templates are made, which are attached to the wall on both sides with self-tapping screws. If the opening is at the entrance, then one guide will be a plywood template, the other will be the arched profile of the door itself. In this case, for alignment, a rule is used with a cut out protrusion on one of the ends (like a bevel).

The surface of the template is pasted over with adhesive tape so that the plywood can be easily separated from the plaster when removed.

After installing the reinforcement and templates, a solution is applied to the base in the usual way (spray, soil). Align the mixture, resting the rule or bevel on the supporting surfaces. Alignment is carried out several times in one direction, then once or twice in the opposite direction (for fixing). Rub such a curved surface with a grater with a rounded working part.

How to plaster

In order to plaster the door slope, the mixture is selected according to the conditions of the room. If it is not heated, apply. In an apartment, you can plaster the slopes of the front door with compounds for internal use, for example, and from the outside - with a mixture with cement. The composition can be prepared from individual components on its own, or you can purchase a dry mix and mix before work.

Tools and materials for work

To plaster the sidewalls of the opening, you need:

mixer (for mixing the mixture);
spatulas;
roller;
short rule or malka;
grater;
level;
capacity;
masking tape, film;
rags;
sandpaper;
paint brush;
components for mortar or dry mix;
primer;
putty;
corner profile;
reinforcing mesh;
self-tapping screws;
clean cool water;
scaffold or ladder;
personal protective equipment.

Why trim the slopes

The plastering of the slopes of the front door is carried out in order to:

align, ennoble the wall around the door, make the hallway attractive;
close the fastening structure of the door package;
seal the area around the door (the plaster forms a monolithic coating);
additionally insulate the room, reduce the level of noise coming from outside.

All these goals are achievable if the plaster of the slopes of the front door is used. The main advantages of plaster:

the solution can be given any shape;
the material is plastic, it can be laid evenly without much difficulty;
the compositions are environmentally friendly, non-flammable, create a durable coating;
finishing and repair can be done with your own hands;
material is available, not expensive.

A beginner will not be superfluous a few professional tips:

Door slopes in a new building are plastered after plastering work has been completed on the adjacent wall.
It is impossible to neglect the thorough preparation of the base for plastering.
When purchasing a dry mix, pay attention to the expiration date of the composition. It is better to purchase a mixture that is still far from the expiration date.
In the room it is necessary to provide the necessary temperature conditions.
The solution is made using cold water (this is especially important for gypsum compositions).
In the process of work, verticality and other geometric parameters are constantly monitored.
Each plaster layer is dried for the time specified by the manufacturer of the mixture.
Alignment templates are best made of plastic. Particularly "sensitive" should be treated to the smoothness and evenness of the cutting surface.
When the cement composition is gaining strength, its surface must not be overdried. If the room is hot and dry, the surface of the finish is moistened or hung with wet matting.
If it is planned to fasten the beacons to the mortar, the surface of the mortar fixing the beacon is also primed before plastering.
The gap between the door frame and the wall is caulked or sealed with elastic sealants. If desired, the joint is covered with decorative strips.
Excess gypsum mortar removed from the wall must not be thrown into a container with the rest of the mixture, so as not to cause an accelerated setting of the entire composition.

Plastering door slopes is not as difficult as it seems at first. If you follow the technological rules in the process of work, then the end result will please its owner. They say that seeing once is better than hearing about it all the time. Therefore, we suggest watching videos to have a complete picture of the process.

This type of work, such as plastering slopes, is one of the important stages in finishing a doorway. Not only the appearance of the door, but also its important performance characteristics depend on the quality of the work. Let us consider in more detail the technology and features of puttying the doorway.

Plaster - a great option for finishing slopes

Why plaster slopes

Plastering the slopes of a door or window opening is of great importance, so a lot depends on the quality of the work. The main reasons why such surface treatment is performed can be identified:

Cracks. With the help of putty, you can eliminate all cracks, gaps and cracks along the perimeter of the opening. This will have a positive effect on sound insulation and heat preservation.
Finished look. Slopes acquire a more accurate appearance, the door is ready for operation, dirt and construction dust are eliminated.
Decor. Plaster gives the opening an aesthetic appearance and can act as the main design.
The basis for another decor. In addition to plaster, you can use paint, wallpaper, tiles, MDF panels and other similar materials. However, in any case, it is necessary to first level the slopes and bring out a surface of appropriate quality for finishing.
Protection. Thanks to the putty, it is possible to hide the mounting foam from ultraviolet radiation, which is a prerequisite for preventing its destruction.

Plastering of door slopes is carried out to protect and decorate the opening

Plastering slopes with your own hands is a very real task. To facilitate the process, you need to prepare all the necessary tools and select the appropriate materials.

Selection of putty

What putty to choose for finishing the slopes with your own hands? The modern construction market is famous for its huge assortment, so depending on the specific conditions, you can choose exactly the mixture that suits you best. The entire range can be divided into the following categories:

Cement. Durable and quite moisture resistant, but shrink after drying.
Gypsum. Homogeneous, easy to apply, provide a smooth surface, but do not like a wet environment.
Polymer. Waterproof, easy to use, durable, but have a high cost.

In addition, do-it-yourself plastering of slopes is often done in several stages. For the base layer, you will need a starting, stronger, but coarse mixture. It is necessary to level with a plastic and homogeneous finishing putty. Some manufacturers offer universal formulations, but their cost is much higher.

Varieties of putty used for finishing door slopes

If you are planning further surface finishing of the opening after plastering the slopes, you can use a standard cement-sand mortar for basic filling of gaps and eliminating irregularities.

Required Tools

Do-it-yourself plastering of door slopes is impossible without certain tools. First of all, you will need:

rule;
a set of spatulas;
container for diluting the mixture;
construction mixer;
construction grater;
level;
corners;
sickle;
primer;
stationery knife;
brush.

List of tools required for plastering door slopes

Since slopes can be plastered using different methods, in addition you may need a metal mesh, as well as drywall and a profile for attaching it. Be sure to stock up on a set of screws for different surfaces. To fix them, you need a drill and a screwdriver.

In order not to smear the box and adjacent surfaces with plaster, cover them with masking tape before starting rough work. It is recommended to lay a film on the floor. If possible, remove the canvas from the hinges for a while. As for the new door, it is recommended not to remove the protective film from it until the repair is completed.

Opening preparation

In order to facilitate the plastering of door slopes, the working area must first be prepared. This includes a wide range of jobs. Since such a design of slopes is almost always associated with updating the door itself, you first need to eliminate all the defects and irregularities that remain after replacing the box.

First of all, cut off the excess foam with a sharp clerical knife. If the irregularities are too significant, it is best to use a plasterboard sheet as the basis for plastering. Choose moisture-resistant samples to extend their life. You can attach this material to the opening in two ways:

On glue. This is the simplest option to save space. To begin with, a layer of plaster is applied to the slopes. You can use leftover tile adhesive or a regular homemade mortar. Then drywall is applied to the raw viscous mass and pressed. Thus, you need to drive out an even level around the entire perimeter of the opening.
On the frame. If the curvature is too big, or you just don't want to waste putty, then take the traditional approach and screw sheets of the desired shape and size to the aluminum frame. These elements are screwed to the slopes using self-tapping screws and dowels. Using this method, you can display an unusual shape of the opening, for example, create a rounded corner, like an arched vault.

Drywall is often used to level door slopes.

If gaps and crevices remain in the opening, they must be closed with the help of heaters. Usually mineral wool is used for this. In order for the plaster on the doorways to better set, it is recommended to upholster the slopes with a special mesh. Serpyanka is glued to the places where the self-tapping screws are deepened on the GKL and in the corners. A larger metal mesh can be nailed directly onto the wall.

In conclusion, you need to treat the surfaces with an antiseptic and carefully primed to improve adhesion. The next stage is directly plastering the slopes with your own hands.

Plastering technology

Consider how to plaster the slopes of the doorway. The whole process can be divided into several stages:

First you need to repair the largest irregularities. If you are laying the mass directly on concrete with a mesh, you must definitely use the starting putty. First, a small amount of the mixture is thrown onto the slopes from the bottom up, and then leveled with a large spatula. Surpluses are transferred to the upper level. For drywall, everything is simpler: you need to seal the places where the self-tapping screws are deepened with a finishing mixture.
It is important to bring out even corners. To do this, fix the aluminum profile and mesh around the perimeter. On top of them, apply the mixture with a small spatula and check the thickness of the layer with a large tool.
After the initial plastering of the slopes, wait for the surface to dry completely. If there are significant irregularities, it is recommended to remove them with a construction grater.
Since it is necessary to plaster the slopes to a perfectly flat surface, a finishing composition must be applied on top. With its help, all irregularities are eliminated.
After drying, rub the surface with a float and remove dust before further finishing.

An important step in applying plaster is the removal of even corners.

Since it is not easy to putty slopes in several layers, it is possible to improve the adhesion of mixtures by applying shallow notches to the starting layer before it dries.

If you are planning on painting or wallpapering, you need to try to create perfectly even slopes. For textured plaster, tiling and paneling, starting processing will be enough. However, if in the future you plan to replace the coating, it is better to initially bring the surface to the ideal.