How to seal a plastic bucket. How to quickly fix a leak in a plastic vessel? Insert a plastic bag into the bucket

Often, we need to glue broken or cracked plastic items, from the temples of eyeglasses to the bumper of a car. It may also be necessary to glue a hook in the bathroom or a holder for a garden sprayer. The essence of the gluing process is the dissolution of the surface layer of two workpieces and the formation of a plastic layer from this solution, common to both parts. After hardening, the parts form a single whole, or, as they say, "stick together tightly."

Determine the type of plastic

in order to reliably glue plastic, first of all, you need to find out what kind of plastic the object is made of. Knowing the plastic, you can choose the most suitable adhesive for it.

All manufacturers put recycling symbols on their plastic products - this is the well-known Recycling Triangle - a triangle with arrows on the sides, symbolizing the reuse of materials.

The triangle contains numbers from one to seven. Often the numbers are supplemented by an abbreviation. According to these designations, the type of plastic is determined.

What does the marking on plastic mean?

PET low pressure polyethylene or polyethylene terephthalate. It is mainly used for packing or packaging food products. It is produced in the form of a film, bags or transparent containers for liquid and bulk goods, as well as drinks.
HDPE compacted low pressure polyethylene. It is used for the production of shrink film and packaging bags.
V (PVC) polyvinyl chloride is a non-food plastic used for the manufacture of strong and durable items, such as household buckets, metal-plastic window frames, linoleum.
LDPE High pressure low density polyethylene. It is used in the production of bottles for drinks and dairy products, packaging bags, toys, pipes for cold water.
PP polypropylene. Plastic is not chemically active, heat-resistant (up to 150 °C), is most widely used in the production of medical products, heat-resistant dishes and household utensils, toys, pipes and fittings for hot water, and much more.
PS polystyrene. Also, food grade plastic, disposable tableware, household utensils, and cases of kitchen appliances are made from it. If it is foamed, it forms an excellent porous heat insulator - foam used in everyday life and in construction work.
O Other (other) - materials that are not intended for recycling, for example, with inclusions of metal, paper or other substances). This also includes plastics that do not belong to one of the six groups.

PS - polystyrene

To reliably glue plastic, you need to carefully consider the markings on the product and select an adhesive designed for polymers of this group. There is another way to determine the type of plastic - a small piece of it must be set on fire. Each type burns with a characteristic smell and type of flame. For reliable application of this method at home, you need to gain considerable experience.

Glue marking

Glue tubes are also marked, it's a pity that the notation does not always match the symbols in the triangle on the plastic product. Most often, the following symbols can be seen on the tube:

PC-polycarbonate (used to cover greenhouses and sheds).
ABS is an acrylonitrile copolymer.
PP polypropylene.
PPMA organic glass for general use.
PE is a well-known polyethylene.
PVC is another friend - vinyl, or polyvinyl chloride.
PS - polystyrene.
PA 66 - polyamide.
PUR polyurethane.

If you are not an expert in organic chemistry, then most likely, further study of labeling at home will not be successful. It is better to read in the user manual, which must be attached to the tube, which plastics can be glued with it.

Types of adhesives

The variety of plastics used in everyday life corresponds to an equally wide variety of manufactured compositions and methods of their application.

How to glue plastic

To dissolve the surface layer of the material, it is necessary to destroy the chemical bonds between the molecules. For this, special substances are used - strong solvents. Each solvent is suitable for its own group of plastics, and may not even leave a trace on a material from another group. At the heart of each adhesive composition is such a solvent. In addition, the composition may include:

a hardener that promotes its drying;
filler - dissolved molecules of the substance for which the adhesive is intended.

One of the strongest solvents is dichloroethane. It is used to glue polystyrene and plexiglass.

Depending on the method of application, the funds are divided into several groups:

liquid;
contact;
reactionary;
hot melt adhesives.

Liquid

Liquids are widely used in everyday life, they are easily and simply used at home for gluing plastic with a porous structure. They are available both on the basis of an organic solvent and on a water basis. They are applied to surfaces that are pressed against each other for a time sufficient to evaporate the base. After that, the adhesive layer hardens, forming a connecting seam. PVA glue is a typical example; it can be used to glue not only linoleum, but also wood at home.

Contact

Gluing takes place in two stages:

the surfaces to be glued are lubricated with a thin layer, which dissolves the surface layer of plastic, softening it and facilitating contact with another surface;
after a few minutes, the parts are pressed against each other with force, the softened layers are mixed, the solvent evaporates and a seam is formed.

This is how Moment, BF-2 and others work. They can glue polystyrene and other plastics at home. They contain toxic substances, so you need to work in a well-ventilated area and avoid getting drops on the skin or mucous membranes.

reactionary

One-component reactive agents dissolve the bonded material very quickly and harden just as quickly. These are such well-known brands as Secunda, Superglue and their analogues. The seam is strong and rigid.

Two-component consist, respectively, of two components stored separately from each other:

hardener;
fixer.

The components are mixed immediately before use and applied to surfaces where the mixture hardens to form a joint. The basis is epoxy or polyester resins. The seam at home is very durable. A characteristic feature is that complete hardening takes a long time, and the seam gradually increases both strength and brittleness.

Hot melt adhesives

This group includes substances that exhibit their properties when heated to 110-120 ° C. For application, you need a special glue gun with a heating element. Differs in accuracy of drawing. In addition to plastic, they can glue wood, fabric, paper at home.

How to glue plastic tightly at home

After the type of plastic has been determined and the appropriate substance has been selected, one should:

thoroughly degrease the surfaces to be bonded. To do this, use alcohol, a degreaser or a soap solution (only laundry soap);
to more reliably glue objects, you need to increase the wettability. To do this, treat the surfaces with a velvet file or thin sandpaper;
mix two-component reactive substances only after completion of the preparation of parts;
do not use brushes with natural bristles;
apply enough adhesive so that when pressing the workpieces, the excess does not squeeze out beyond the gluing zone.

The parts should be pressed in such a way as to exclude their displacement in the plane of gluing relative to each other.

How to achieve maximum effect when gluing plastic parts

In order for gluing plastic at home to give the maximum effect, you should:

accurately determine the material and select the appropriate adhesive for it;
carefully follow the instructions for use;
wait the set time for the seam to gain strength and do not try to use the product ahead of time;
for outdoor work or for items used in conditions of high humidity, you need to choose a waterproof brand;
despite the declared heat resistance of the adhesive, the parts themselves may not survive this temperature;
if there is no marking on the product, then you can try to drop a drop of adhesive in an inconspicuous place and see if the material dissolves.

Epoxy glue gives one of the strongest bonds and is compatible with many types of plastics.

What affects the reliability of bonding

The reliability of the seam is affected by a number of conditions. All of them are important, and failure to follow one of them can lead to the fact that the glued at home will fall off, despite the observance of all the others. So:

Compliance of the material of the product and the adhesive composition.
Correspondence of the type of adhesive composition with the magnitude of the forces that the connection will experience. Equally important is the direction of these efforts. So, compounds that give rigid seams are not suitable for repairing, for example, shoes - after all, the sole will bend and twist during operation, despite the fact that the tensile force will be small. At the same time, this composition can successfully glue, say, a hook to glass, and hang tens of kilograms on it.
Compliance with the technology of application. Everything is important here - and how many seconds or minutes it is necessary to compress the surfaces, and how to degrease them, and how much to keep the parts pressed against each other. All this depends on the properties of a particular “plastic-glue” pair, is described in detail in the instructions and must be followed verbatim. A one-second deviation in dwell time or early use of the product may result in secondary failure.
The mechanical part of the process. It is important to thoroughly clean the surface of dust and roughen it. In addition, the direction of pressing the parts to each other must be perpendicular to the surfaces to be glued. It is impossible to allow mutual displacement of parts after pressing - this will also lead to failure.

Gluing plastic tightly is not so easy. Carefully following the simple rules by the home master will allow you to get strong and durable connections. The main thing is not to forget about safety precautions: do not inhale the vapors of the adhesive composition and prevent it from getting into food, on the skin or mucous membranes. In case of accidental swallowing, you should immediately consult a doctor, be sure to take the tube with you.

Your favorite basin or bucket has broken, but there is no opportunity to buy a new one? Don't be discouraged, with the help of plastic and tools, it is easy to repair any container in a matter of minutes.

Necessary materials and tools

We will need:

A piece of plastic from the usual "one and a half";
soldering iron;
Broken container.

Before starting soldering, we clean the bucket or basin from contamination inside and out, and degrease it on both sides. Take a soldering iron with a large tip and heat it up. We start the process from the inside, gently running the soldering iron along the crack, from left to right (as if we were making strokes). We take out our “patch” from a plastic bottle and apply it to the crack. We melt plastic to the defect, it's easy and convenient!

As a result, we get a strong and almost imperceptible seam, which will help the container to last for a long time. Even a plastic bag can be used as a material for sealing a gap.

other methods

A soldering iron is not always at hand, but this is not a reason to be upset. Plastic containers can be sealed in other ways:

With the help of a solvent - drop a drop of solvent (toulol, dichloroethane, tetrahydrofuran) on both edges of the crack. Under the influence of the chemical, the plastic will soften, the edges of the crack must be firmly pressed against each other. After about a day, you can use a bucket or basin;
You can make glue for the "patch". Take a piece of plastic and fill it with acetone (be sure to cover it). After a few hours, you will have a mass to which you need to add the usual "Moment". Seal the crack as soon as possible with such glue;
You can also use special welding for plastic. A small amount of the composition is leveled over the surface of the crack and left to dry completely. If you follow the instructions - a very effective method.

Even a building hair dryer and a piece of waste plastic can help you solve your problem, so don't be afraid to experiment, perhaps. You will find other ways to repair utensils in the field.

The problem of cracking of plastic products is very relevant in our time, when most of the little things necessary in everyday life are made from this material.
After all, in fact, it is stupid to throw away a completely new scoop or bucket. Just a waste of money and time. It is especially insulting to throw away your favorite, albeit inexpensive, vase. To cope with this problem and extend, even if for a short time, the service life of plastic products, it is necessary to quickly repair them. One way to quickly fix a leak in a plastic bucket or get a dustpan working properly is to use a caustic substance called trichlor. Of course, it is not sold in all hardware stores and you will have to go around a lot of outlets to buy the coveted bottle, but it's worth it.

Trichlor is a rather dangerous chemical agent, which is a light and very caustic liquid. Therefore, it is necessary to work with it only in protective gloves.

A little substance must be poured onto natural cotton wool or the same rag and wiped over its problem area. In a matter of seconds, the plastic treated in this way will become soft and the crack can be smoothed out. If one treatment was not enough, the plastic is too strong or, on the contrary, very thin, then you can repeat the process, using a piece of additional plastic for insurance. After connection, you will receive a product without a crack, as if it never existed. At the same time, the quality of the patch is quite high. You can use the thing for its intended purpose. There will be no leaks.

But it must be remembered that all work should be carried out indoors with open windows or outdoors. This is necessary so as not to get poisoned yourself, and not to harm others. An easier way to quickly fix a leak in a plastic container is to use paraffin wax. To work, you need a candle made of paraffin. It must be ignited and when it starts to melt, bring it to the problem area. Paraffin will firmly seal the crack. It is more secure and quite reliable.

Cracked pelvis can get a second wind

After such a quick repair, the product will last for quite a long time if you do not keep it near an open fire or in the sun. In addition, cold welding can be used. It securely glues the product. After processing, you must wait about half an hour. You need to work with protective gloves.

Manual welding extruder for joining plastic.

Since we are dealing with batteries and there is a lot of acidic electrolyte around us, we use plastic containers for storage. It is clear that these tanks periodically need repairs, so to speak. Plastic containers are not small in size, and in such ways it is quite laborious to restore their integrity. Therefore, we purchased a manual welding extruder for more professional work. It is clear that it costs a lot of money, but its productivity is higher and it welds plastic much more reliably. We really bought a German-made extruder, but now we also have our Russian-made extruder, and we want to recommend one of the models to you.

The second life of leaky barrels

Chapter: Likbez

Written by Anatoly Nikolaevich MOSKALEV, Yekaterinburg

A metal barrel is one of the most useful items on our site. But time takes its toll, and gradually they fall into disrepair. Should they be thrown away?

Our dacha experts confidently say: no!

Average barrel life is 20 years

In 1982, I bought 10 200 liter steel barrels (inside diameter 54 cm x height 88 cm) to store water for irrigation. They regularly served in the country for 20 years, since every two years I painted them with waterproof paint. But nothing, as they say, lasts forever. Gradually, small holes began to appear in the bottom and on the side cylindrical surface, they were sealed with cold welding and tar. But from year to year the holes increased in size, their number grew. By 2010, all barrels were completely unusable, no repair helped them anymore - not barrels, but a sieve! Suitable only for collecting and burning garbage, making compost or throwing it in a landfill.

Using the package to extend the life of the barrel

The idea was suggested to me by the summer resident Yuri Stepanov: “Holes are not at all a reason not to keep water in barrels.” I decided to put it into practice and got a wonderful result. I had to bring the idea to mind myself.

In the store I bought plastic bags for garbage - 60 microns, with a volume of 240 liters. It is very important that the volume of the package is much larger than the volume of the barrel, and its perimeter is equal to the perimeter of its outer cylindrical surface (if more, this is welcome; if less, then no more than 2-3 cm - polyethylene is elastic and stretches a little). I think you guessed it: the water will be stored in a bag, and the barrel should only serve as a supporting frame for it.

At first I wanted to finish writing on this, but, on reflection, I decided: no, you need to convey some nuances, then you will save both time and nervous energy. The technology is simple.

To avoid punctures

We clean the inner surface of the barrel from sharp peeling paint and rust that can pierce a plastic bag.

We do this with a metal brush, and even better - a metal frame, which weeds are shaved off (just use the frame planted on the handle). And don't overdo it! Carefully check the inner surface of the barrel with your palm: if there are no sharp spots, just clean it. Any non-sharp protrusions do not matter. There is no need to paint the inside of the barrel - do not waste money, effort and time.

If you can’t smooth out the sharp protrusions in any way, or you want to insure yourself from future troubles, there is such a move: we cut out a circle from thick polyethylene (cardboard, plastic, etc.), the diameter of which is equal to the inner diameter of the barrel or even slightly larger than it. Put the circle on the bottom of the barrel. We cut out a rectangle, the width of which is equal to the distance from the bottom of the barrel to its upper edge, and the length is slightly greater than its perimeter. We turn the rectangle into a cylinder, overlap the edges and fasten them along with threads.

Subject: Crack in plastic water tank for outdoor shower. How to seal the tank?

We put the cylinder in the barrel. The circle and the cylinder will reliably protect packages from punctures!

One is good, two is better

For strength, it is better to use two packages. We put one into the other so that the corners at the bottom coincide. We put the bags on a flat surface (table, floor) and expel the air from them, stroking them with our palms from the bottom to the top edge. Of course, some air will still remain, but it does not matter. We align the upper edges and with narrow adhesive tape (8-15 mm) we fasten the packages over the edge along the perimeter along their upper edge every 10-15 cm. The length of the fastening adhesive tape is enough 4 cm. Now the linked edges of the packages will not move relative to each other, and we get a double package. Do not seal the edges of the bags along the entire length - this is very important, and you will appreciate this later, since the air remaining between the bags will be able to freely escape when water is poured into the inner bag.

We lower the double package into the barrel. We bend its upper edge (5-15 cm) onto the outer surface of the barrel along its entire perimeter.

If the length of the bag allows, it is best to fold the edges as much as possible, but make sure that the bag in the barrel does not hang in the air, as water will simply tear it apart.

So that the package, when we start pouring water into it, does not slip to the bottom of the barrel, it is necessary to attach the folded part of the package to the outer surface of the barrel with a wide adhesive tape (60-80 mm). This is a very responsible operation, it is better to do it together. For example, a husband puts a barrel at an oblique angle, round or box and slowly turns it around its axis, while the wife at this time, slowly, glues the bag with tape: half the width of the tape to the bag, the other to the barrel. The operation requires accuracy, the adhesive tape should lie evenly and tightly, without swelling and distortions. Of course, you can perform this procedure alone, but it is difficult. In the photo next to me is a barrel, which I wrapped with adhesive tape absolutely alone (before that, the operation was carried out together with my wife, as I described above). Look how great I did! And you, dear readers, I am sure, are incomparably more talented than me, you will do even better!

Air vent hooks

And here is one more serious nuance! A lot of air remains between the double bag and the barrel body. You are tempted to remove it. And if you do not remove it, the poured water, gradually pressing the bag against the barrel, will squeeze the air up: the bag will swell, and since there is no way out for air, it may tear as a result, or the bent edge of the bag together with adhesive tape will pull the water into the barrel, which we had at first. The package falls to the bottom, water flows out through the holes. goodbye idea...

Having failed on the first barrel, I found the next way out. From aluminum wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm we cut pieces 15-20 cm long and make hooks. To do this, we press a piece of wire vertically to the outside of the barrel. The upper end of the wire should be 5-6 cm higher than the edge of the barrel. With one hand we hold the wire, with the other hand we bend it inside the barrel and also press it tightly against the wall. The short part of the hook 4-5 cm long is enough.

Before lowering the double bag into the barrel, I hung one hook on each barrel with the long side of the hook facing out. If you inserted a cylinder into the barrel, the short end of the hook must be on top of it. When wrapping with tape, you can not stick the outer end of the hook, the tape should be at least a little higher than the tip. The hook will create two air outlet channels.

The bag will press tightly against the barrel under water pressure, and even if you scoop out water from the barrel, the bag will still remain tightly pressed.

For many years

Please note: with this method, water is perfectly stored all season. It is clean and has no rust. It can even be used for washing clothes and primary washing vegetables.

Packages can be removed for the winter and kept warm, for example, in a city apartment, their weight and volume are insignificant. Polyethylene will retain its properties and last at least one more season. Saving! Barrels should be stored after the close of the season in a dry place, and they will last for many years without any repair.

By the way, not only a leaky barrel is suitable for storing water in this way. It can be any container, as long as it serves as a reliable frame for the package. For example, you can put together a wooden box whose cross-sectional area and its height are consistent with the dimensions of the package.

I already wanted to seal the letter in an envelope, but my wife said: “And if the summer resident is unable to buy packages? How to be? And here is her advice, instead of bags, you can use a film for greenhouses in the form of a sleeve - bend the sleeve lengthwise, bend it across, lower it into a barrel, cut it off at the top with a margin ... Further, I think it's understandable.

If we fill all leaky barrels and other leaky containers with water, we will have something to water our gardens and vegetable gardens, and we will have good harvests even in dry years. I urge everyone to follow my lead. I wish you all health and enough water - the basis of life on earth (of course, God save you from floods).

Magazine "My Beautiful Dacha".

plastic bucket repair

How to seal a plastic canister?

fugitive 08-04-2010 16:11

Friends.
Here's the incident.
After the Weekend Journey (Easter Procession, if you will), a collapsible canister was found to be leaking. Polyethylene canister from Tatonka. A tiddly leak formed in the area where the hollow handle was attached - they filled it to the eyeballs, 10 liters, it seemed to bark when carrying.
It's a pity for the canister - four or five years like with me, a good thing.
Yes, and it’s worthless to write off everything in a row and throw money away.

Here is the question. Polyethylene doesn't stick well at all. Maybe someone glued? And if so, what? I look at the device and think - either heat it, or glue it, or stick the base of the handle with epoxy (it seems like epoxy adheres to everything except fluoroplast, there was once an experience of gluing plastic - polypropylene).

Before I break the canister, can anyone remember something? BUT?

Ummka 08-04-2010 16:22

Try to solder with an ordinary electric soldering iron, and to unload the pen in a light cloth string bag, wear it. For three years we have been using a folding canister under the pivo

minorite 08-04-2010 16:29

I also soldered with a soldering iron. I wiped it with gasoline on both sides, dried it and with a small soldering iron of 25 watts, gently, like pulling on polyethylene, “patched up” the crack.
After this operation, the wall turned out to be thinner, of course, in that place, but it seemed to withstand water.

fugitive 08-04-2010 17:02

Thanks, colleagues.
Essno, as a normal Maine, I went through the question along the way.
You are right - welding. There are also chemical methods, but I don’t have such a muck like a hrompic.

But. While the canister dries, I drove the properties of polyethylene here and something else. In general, polyethylene is easy to cook - not ice. It destructurizes and depolymerizes when melted, as a result, it becomes more brittle in this place. And then there's the load (after all, the pen - no matter how you pack it in a string bag, and some thread of a hack by the handle will still explode).
But hot melt adhesive, as it turned out, is a copolymer of polyethylene, it polymerizes just during melting and, moreover, has a lower melting point. What you need. I have several types, I found the most elastic one right now.

As the canister dries thoroughly, I’ll try to brew it with a hot-melt adhesive with a soldering iron through a fumlent (it seems to be fluoroplastic, it won’t stick to a soldering iron or polyethylene, so as not to make snot), without melting the polyethylene base much. At the same time, I think, what trick can be taken from the inside ...

evgenstr 08-04-2010 17:42

if a place with a hole does not carry a load, you can simply brew it with a soldering iron. if under load, try something like "cold welding", which, if memory serves, does not stick to ordinary tracing paper ...

would be nice to see a photo...

Ummka 08-04-2010 18:18quote: I’ll try to brew it with a hot-melt adhesive with a soldering iron through a fumlent (it seems to be fluoroplastic, not for a soldering iron,
I want to remind you that when heated above 200 degrees, the fluoroplastic decomposes with the release of gas from the phosgene group Susliks 08-04-2010 18:20quote:Originally posted by evgenstr:

would be nice to see a photo...

I think this is a standard canister here:

fugitive 08-04-2010 21:03quote: I think this is a standard canister here:

Quite right. Just more volume.
A crack near the handle next to the faucet lid.

I had to leave here. Just returned. We'll figure it out.

Ummka 08-04-2010 22:00

If not soldered, in a problematic place, instead of fittings, you can melt a piece of iron mesh

ZedkiN 09-04-2010 12:10

Duc with epoxy or paxipol to cover up and business then!

fugitive 09-04-2010 01:20

They drove me around the house here.
Until I glued it. Postponed until tomorrow. I will definitely share the result.

quote: Duc with epoxy or paxipol to cover up and business then!

Not. It won't roll. Work on the polypropylene cover showed that the epoxy adheres to it, but it is too hard. Without at least partially repeating the bends of the product during operation, it either bursts and flies off by itself, or a new unnatural bend is formed and again a crack ... And then - due to the fragility of the resin, they will not hold a flexible area if "spread". The layer is too thin. If the part is motionless, then I even sculpt the gluing with a plump hat. And it won't work here.
And this despite the fact that out of everything available at hand, only the good old domestic resin was normally sucked to polypropylene, which is sold on the market for "bottling" (I can't remember the name, like EN-8 or something like that, transparent matte, no filler).

How to fix a barrel, flask, bucket, watering can, canister

Imported "plasticines" in general ...

Did the author himself see this glue?

evgenstr 09-04-2010 09:04quote:Originally posted by Susliks:

I think this is a standard canister here

it would be nice to look at the photo of the place of failure ...))

if possible, attach a patch from the same material as the canister.

13mm 09-04-2010 09:31

I'm sentimental today...
Maybe say "thank you" to her and send her to rest.

ek-burger 09-04-2010 12:46

IMHO after 4-5 years of operation it is easier to throw it away and buy a new one. stick in one place, rub in another.
Some kind of rodent bit me in the parking lot at night. on one of the folds of the accordion. sealed with silver epoxy tape.

proba999 09-04-2010 13:19

We have been successfully using such cans for a long time, and we used Tatonka, and other manufacturers. It has been noticed, and not only by me, that canisters up to 5 liters inclusive live longer, 2-3 years, but 10 liter ones fail in the handle area, if not a puncture, of course.

Throw out the canister and get a new one. And stock up. Do not take 10 liters, a couple of 5 liters is better.

Very worthy cansitra, given the volume and weight

No, do not throw it away, repair it, post a photo report to comrades, test it and then throw it away. For me personally, it would be relevant - repair is not at home

Homo sapiens 09-04-2010 14:05

The place that is subjected to the greatest load has cracked (at least as I understood from the description), therefore, it is useless to repair without removing the load from this place, even if the repair site itself remains whole and cracks nearby - it’s time to see. The only option is repair and simultaneous unloading of the handle.

ZedkiN 09-04-2010 20:57quote: And with poxypl, it’s generally strange advice, however ...
Did the author himself see this glue?

Ahem... I also used paxipol with epoxy... moreover, in extreme conditions (I glued the car radiator, there was a fairly large crack and I left it for more than 3 months, and you know, after all, the pressure is high and the temperature is decent). Only it is necessary not only to spread, but also to pre-attach a piece of cloth (this is about epoxy).

GPMS 09-04-2010 20:58

I glue plastic with a building hair dryer and plastic sticks (for glue guns - I don’t know what they are called correctly). Heat up the plastic and the glue stick with a hair dryer. You smear the glue over the place of the crack and heat it up a little more, it turns out that the plastic of the canister and the plastic of the glue stick are integrated into each other. The main thing is not to overdo it.

put 09-04-2010 21:17

And if you cut off the handles are hollow: one mount, where the hole is completely, and cut off the second so that the resulting segment of the tube near the canister is soldered or glued by squeezing or with a cork inward on the glue. And where there is a hole: cut flush and clamp between two rubber and two metal washers on a bolt and nut (you can probably use glue). Well, wear it naturally in a mesh or bag. Something like this. If the one-piece joint of the handle and the body could not stand it, then the repair one is even more so.

Home▲▼

How to glue plastic?

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:44

like this - provided that all the pieces are picked up Do not offer a car service for bumpers - it's very expensive and in general I want to try it myself

Ann 14-01-2010 11:49

I myself did not believe that a broken plastic shelf from a refrigerator can be stupidly glued together with a thermal gun, and it works fine further. Just glued the seam, and that's it. Although in a good way it was necessary, of course, to take a mesh, even a window one, and "plaster" it on a layer of glue, so that it would be stronger.
Well, of course, you need to look at what kind of plastic, some are glued just disgustingly, and some can be soldered with a hairdryer.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 11:55

When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

Charnota 14-01-2010 12:13

How many pieces?

Sometimes epoxy rolls onto a fabric base.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:17

I don't know yet

TAURUS 14-01-2010 12:22

dichloroethane glues well ... if you first dissolve some of this plastic in it ...

but provided that this plastic dissolves in this substance ...

Sportsman 14-01-2010 12:32

All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:40quote:Originally posted by Sportist:
When it arrives, I'll take a look. Something seems very similar to a scoop green (blue, red) plastic bucket

buy a thermal gun and glue with heating through fiberglass or other fittings. Old buckets - polyethylene, everything will stick together to die.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:42quote:Originally posted by Sportist:
All these methods are known to me and have been used. I'm wondering if they've come up with something new? And how to reinforce with mesh - how to fuse it into plastic? Brass mesh?

yes how how...

Soldering plastic barrels!

you stupidly take this mosaic and pick up the nozzle - you glue it right along the seam, it grabs quickly, having assembled it, you paste the mesh on the inside, fiberglass along the seams.

alchemist 14-01-2010 12:43

forget about dichloroethane, if, as you said, plastic is like a Soviet bucket, then polyethylene is there with a high degree of probability, or polypropylene, and DCE will not take it.

Sportsman 14-01-2010 13:13

Dichloroethane will most likely not work here ... What is a thermal gun? In my understanding, this is Chinese shnyaga for 50 rubles, which spits hot melt adhesive (hot melt adhesive in rods)

alchemist 14-01-2010 13:18

yeah, it’s for them, the casing will be heavily thermally loaded? if yes, then there is dandyl heat resistant compound

Sportsman 14-01-2010 14:49

How hot is the casing on a boat motor? 40-50 degrees, hardly more. I'll have to try hot melt adhesive.

makarharp 14-01-2010 15:24

somewhere on motorcycle sites I saw an exhaustive topic on gluing broken plastic, and it seems that I even duplicated it here ... look, you can find it.

alchemist 14-01-2010 15:25

then there is a reserve, take the rods from 160 and that's it.
There is experience in repairing two NON-FUCKING holes on the plastic of the radiator with a dandyl compound, heat-resistant, black. Zallos like a monolith, shaking blows suffered with honor.

A galvanized bucket for technical needs is one of the first purchases of newcomers to the house. Their whole further life is not complete without it - to wash the floor, heat the water, take out the garbage. Unlike plastic products, steel buckets are not afraid of falls, bumps and even dents!

A bucket galvanized under a microscope - how is galvanized steel made?

First, let's find out what galvanized buckets are made of. There is and never was anything top-secret in this process - the basis for the production of buckets is ordinary steel. The question is, how does it not rust, in contact with liquids in everyday life. It's all about galvanizing!

The most common way to produce steel that will not rust in use is to combine the steel with a metal that resists corrosion well. This metal is zinc. It is quite easy to achieve a combination of steel and zinc, however, it is hardly possible to do this in everyday life, but in steelmaking it is easy.

To get not just a damage-resistant paint, but to combine steel and zinc into one whole, ferrous metal sheets are immersed in molten zinc, so that they become one.

If, after such a hot bath, you examine a sheet of galvanized steel under a microscope, you will see that the outer layer of the sheet consists entirely of zinc, in subsequent layers you will find a mixture of iron and zinc, and as you approach the inner part of the layer, the amount of zinc will approach zero. You can, of course, paint or spray steel with zinc, but this is just the case when the top layer forms a film that only covers the lower layers. At the first opportunity, this film will be torn off, since neither zinc nor steel have the properties to form a strong bond. The price of such a galvanized bucket may not differ from the price of a quality product, but it will last much less.

Another option for obtaining a thin layer of galvanizing is the use of electricity, however, this is only an alternative way that cannot replace the main method. It is from hot-dip galvanized sheet steel that buckets are made in accordance with all relevant state standards. This allows the containers to be used for a sufficiently long time without losing the galvanized layer, however, the service life largely depends on the materials that were transported in buckets.

Zinc bucket - do not cross the road with an empty one!

The standard construction of galvanized buckets consists of a single seam joint of a sheet of steel from which the main body of the bucket is obtained. A bottom, ears for the handle and the handle itself are attached to it. So that the seam does not let liquid through, it is treated with a special sealant. The handle is made of thick galvanized wire. A standard galvanized bucket is produced in the usual volumes for us - 5 liters, 9 liters, 10 liters and 12 liters.

We are all used to such a bucket, because no production can do without it. Although no, there is one industry where the use of galvanized containers is strictly prohibited - this is food production. Zinc can easily be released into the environment when heated, especially into water, and only a small proportion of it can lead to severe poisoning, and ingestion of only 6 grams of zinc can lead to death. In addition to boiling, it is impossible to pickle, pickle, soak food products in a zinc container, in all these processes zinc salts are released, which are unsafe for health.

There are quite a lot of dangers for zinc itself - acids, alkalis, even their solutions can destroy the galvanizing layer. The same applies to washing powder and ordinary table salt - and these substances react with the galvanized layer, gradually destroying it. By observing technical precautions, you will extend the life of the bucket at times.

You simply can’t do without buckets either at summer cottages, or even more so at construction work. With intensive use, they quickly lose their original shiny appearance, begin to rust and leak. Experienced gardeners recommend immediately after purchase to solder a zinc plate to the bottom of the bucket - this doubles the life of the container. For convenience, attach a piece of rubber hose to the handle.

After work, the zinc bucket must be freed from the remnants of materials that managed to visit it during the day. It is important not only to rinse, but also to wipe the inside of the container with a dry cloth. It is impossible to leave such containers overnight directly on the ground, in extreme cases, put at least a few bricks under the bottom or a piece of plank. It is best to store buckets after work in dry rooms.

It is highly not recommended to carry earth and sand in galvanized containers, or mix solutions with their content - small particles of earth and sand will work like sandpaper and significantly damage the galvanization, up to its complete abrasion during constant use in such conditions. For such purposes, it is better to purchase plastic containers, which, like earth, sand, honey with tar, all look the same.

How to fix a bucket - a second life for a container!

At the most inopportune moment, the container may become unusable, but you don’t need to immediately run to the store for a new one - in 90 cases out of 100, the bucket can still be repaired. Most often, the ears are the first to become unusable, with the help of which the handle moves freely in a horizontal plane and holds the bucket firmly. These very ears can simply tear like paper, and there is no point in repairing them. But attach the handle to the product itself as much as possible!

To do this, you will need a hammer, support and pliers. We tear off the rest of the ears with pliers or tongs and place the container on the support so that it supports the wall on the side where the eye was located. With a punch a centimeter from the edge of the bucket, make a hole so that the tool comes out from the inside of the container. After making two holes on the sides where the ears were, install the handle, bending its edges for reliability. That's the whole repair - continue to use the container, which after such a modification will be even stronger on the handle. True, the handle will not be able to fold, but what you will not sacrifice for the sake of long-term operation.

When a small hole appeared in the bucket, it can also still be saved. And there are plenty of options in this matter, ranging from sticking a hole with plasticine to. Plasticine will not withstand more than one or two walkers, so we will not consider it as a reliable way. But if you use cold welding instead of plasticine, the bucket will last a very long time after repair. The main thing is to apply the material correctly, having previously cleaned the place of rust, degreased and dried it. Cold welding is usually sold in the form of two components, mixing which, you get a gray plasticine-like material. No need to mix the entire contents of the box with welding for the sake of one bucket - just pinch off a small piece.

By the way, a very quick and fairly long-term repair of the product can be carried out using an ordinary plastic bag or a piece of it. To begin with, dry the bucket and clean the repair site from rust and dirt, and on both sides! We insert a piece of plastic film rolled into a tube into the hole and slightly pull it out. Then the polyethylene is set on fire from both ends and, having reached the middle, it fades, filling the hole. All is ready!

Buckets, basins, barrels and other household equipment are made of plastic. This material is practical, easy to use, but short-lived.

Any drop or mechanical impact can lead to cracks. A container that passes water becomes useless. But seal plastic water container it is quite possible that she will serve well for some time.

It is quite possible to seal a plastic barrel at home. Consider two options for how to fix holes in plastic barrels and other containers.

Option 1

To work, you will need the following materials and tools:

stainless mesh (you can take aluminum, copper),
scissors,
soldering iron 100 watts.

Operating procedure:

Cut off a piece of mesh with scissors.
We fix the mesh at the site of damage to the depth of the mesh thickness.
We align it along the seam, moving along the entire plane. At the same time, we solder the mesh with a soldering iron in parallel, hold the free edge with a knife, immediately after soldering we cool it with a heat exchanger (knife) - this is an important rule so that the mesh does not bulge.
We introduce the entire mesh into the seam using this method.
At the end of the work, the seam is completely sealed and reinforced, which gives it a fortress.
Repeat the process on the back side of the container.

VIDEO INSTRUCTION

Option 2

If you have to repair a container with water under pressure, you can resort to another method.

For work you will need:

flexible plastic patch
building hair dryer,
protective gloves.

Operating procedure:

We wipe the area with damage, remove dirt.
We begin to heat with a hairdryer at low power so as not to burn a hole, a place with a defect.
We heat the patch with a hair dryer from the side that will be adjacent to the crack. We heat already at a higher power.
We apply a patch to the place of damage and continue to warm up with a hair dryer, adding more power. Wear protective gloves on your hands to avoid burns. It is important not to overheat the surface.
We smooth the patch with our fingers and wait for it to cool. We pour water and check the quality of work.

Final sealing and smoothing of irregularities on a repaired plastic tank
The first method proved to be the most effective in practice. The second is more suitable as a temporary measure.

How to seal a plastic tank or a barrel for water - the choice of an epoch

If the defect in the plastic container is small, you can use epoxy glue. A two-component epoxy adhesive will effectively solve the problem of a leaky plastic tank.

Differs in the increased resistance to moisture and chemicals, polymerizes in just 1 hour, not flammable.

It is necessary to cut off the required amount of glue, knead with clean hands until a homogeneous mass is obtained, fashion a cone out of it and insert it into the tank opening. Hold securely for a few minutes.

Then you need to wait 2 hours, after which the container can be operated.

Features of epoxy adhesive "Contact":

restores the shape of products, and also hermetically fills voids,
is not afraid of not only water, but also oils, solvents,
the repaired tank can be used at temperatures from -40C to +150C,
within 3-5 minutes, the adhesive can be corrected, and after an hour it can be cleaned, turned and subjected to other mechanical influences,
The adhesive is sold ready to use.

The cost of this composition is from 150 rubles per pack of 50 g.

Also have similar properties adhesives "General Purpos Permapoxy PERMATEX"(from 314 rubles for 25 ml) and "Plastic Weld Permapoxy PERMATEX" (from 320 rubles for 25 ml).

Epoxy adhesives can be purchased at most hardware stores, as well as online.