Refrigerator only works freezer. The refrigerator does not cool, but the freezer works: why and what to do

As practice shows, the user learns about this kind of breakdown by a puddle that forms near the refrigerator. Let's see what could be the causes of this kind of malfunction.

First of all, before contacting a repairman, you need to determine exactly whether the puddle under the refrigerator is caused by ice melting in the freezer, and first of all, you should check the thermostat setting. Optimal mode freezer operation is a mode that maintains a temperature in the region of -19 degrees. It is in this mode of operation that products are best preserved, and the compressor of the refrigerator does not experience overloads.

The next thing to do is to check the freezer for excessive ice. Quite often there are cases when ice frozen on the walls of the freezer prevents the chamber from closing tightly, as a result of which warm air enters it, which defrosts the ice.

If the situations listed above do not apply to your case, then you can come to the conclusion that any refrigerator system is not working properly and needs to be adjusted or repaired.

It should be noted that some causes of malfunctions can be determined independently, even before arrival. experienced craftsman. When making a diagnosis, it is important to consider design features freezer and design features of the entire refrigerator. Below we will consider the most common causes of malfunctions and their main symptoms.

Reason #1.
In two-compressor refrigerators for the cooling chamber and freezer, two separate compressors. Quite often there are situations when one of these compressors becomes unusable. So, if the compressor of the cooling chamber starts and turns off after a very short period of time (for example, 5 seconds), then this may be evidence of a malfunction. The cause can be both wear and tear due to long-term operation, and violation of the requirements correct use refrigerator: loose door closing, incorrect thermostat settings, etc. For the most part, such repairs are quite expensive, since they require the installation of a new, rather expensive part - a compressor.
Reason number 2.
The following cause of failure is characteristic refrigeration With electronic control . A sign of such a breakdown is long and fairly frequent stops of the compressor during its operation. When the temperature inside the compartment decreases, the compressor starts to restore the temperature to the set value; when the set temperature is reached, the motor switches off. If the breaks in the operation of the compressor are long enough, then most likely this is due to the fact that the control module incorrectly determines the temperature inside the refrigerator compartment and incorrectly selects the compressor operation mode. Most often, the repair of such a breakdown consists in replacing the air temperature sensor.
Reason number 3.
Very often, in single-compressor refrigerators, the freezer compartment works, but not efficiently enough. This breakdown is most typical for refrigeration equipment equipped with the No Frost system. The essence of the breakdown is what happens sticky switch valve, through which the cooling in the chambers is regulated. This valve can "stick" in the maximum cooling mode of the refrigerator and freezer compartments. In this case, the power reserve of the motor-compressor is simply not enough for really effective cooling of the freezer. Thereby freezer works less efficiently.
Reason number 4.
The following reason is characteristic of electromechanical refrigerators and is expressed as thermostat malfunctions that controls the temperature in the freezer. The main task of the thermostat is to maintain the set temperature inside the chamber, and when it does not work correctly, the temperature in the freezer rises, because the control element does not generate a signal that would start the compressor for more cooling. This malfunction is eliminated by completely replacing the thermostat.
Reason number 5.
This cause of failure is more characteristic of refrigerators, in which the freezing system is located at the bottom, and which are equipped with "crying" system. The "crying" system provides a special drainage system, due to which the removal of melt water is carried out outside the refrigeration chambers. If the drainage hole, which is located at the bottom of the compartment, is not cleaned from time to time, it is quite possible that the hole becomes so clogged that it is not able to effectively drain water - water is not drained, but accumulates under the boxes for storing vegetables / fruits and gradually flows down front wall of the circuit. Thus, during operation, microcracks appear in the plastic protective panels, through which water penetrates. This water is in contact with metal elements, which leads to corrosion. Corrosion destroys the metal of the pipelines through which the refrigerant circulates, which leads to its leakage.

Quality and inexpensive

Quite often there are situations when the refrigerator works, but does not freeze. In this case, you should not rush to call the master, because it is possible that the cause of the breakdown is not as complicated as it might seem.

Today we will get acquainted with the information on how to independently diagnose the refrigerator, and also consider the most common reasons why the refrigerator does not freeze, but the main compartment continues to work.

Before proceeding with self-diagnosis of the refrigeration unit, you should make sure that it is connected to the mains, it is secure and the doors are tightly closed. If all these conditions are met, then you can proceed to the diagnostics of the equipment, which involves the following actions:

Thus, with self-diagnosis, it is possible to identify and eliminate common small ones, why the refrigerator works, but at the same time the freezer does not perform its tasks. However, if after these actions the refrigerator still does not freeze, the reasons may be more serious.

Possible malfunctions of the refrigerator

Along with small possible reasons, you can independently identify more complex equipment malfunctions.

If the engine has been working properly for some time, while the sounds of the engine are heard, but then it turns off and there is no cold, then most likely the motor compressor cannot start. Additionally, clicks can be heard after about 10 seconds. buzzing of the motor compressor - this is how the thermal protection located in the thermal relay is activated. Moreover, the motor tries to restart after 3 minutes.

There can be several reasons for this behavior, namely:

relay failure;
the starting capacitor was broken;
burned out motor.

What actions should be taken in such cases? The relay is fixed on the motor compressor, so you need to inspect the relay and, if periodic clicks are detected, we can conclude that it is working. And with the “silence” of this part, you will have to replace it.

The motor start capacitor can be checked with a tester. To do this, you first need to discharge it through the resistance. If the capacitor is in good condition, the arrow of the tester, set to measure resistance in mOhm, must first fall sharply, and then return to its original position.

If the capacitor turned out to be serviceable, but the refrigerator still does not freeze, then most likely you will have to contact the workshop to replace the burned-out motor.

Quite often, the reason for the failure of the freezer is from the system. This is confirmed by the long-term operation of the engine and the presence of cold condensate on it. Freon evaporation may occur due to the formation of microcracks in the evaporator. This happens often after tearing off any frozen product from the wall along with ice, as well as after strong vibration during long work unit. Another cause of freon leakage can be broken tubes that go to the evaporator from the compressor, for example, as a result of moving equipment. It is difficult to independently determine the place of freon leakage, as well as to do it after soldering and pumping gas.

If the equipment does not cool, clogged capillaries supplying refrigerant may also be the cause. In these situations, it is also necessary to seek help from a specialist, since without certain equipment it will not be possible to push through the system.

If you have experience with electrical appliances, you can try to implement.

The best refrigerators according to buyers in 2018

Refrigerator Biryusa 50

Refrigerator ATLANT ХМ 4010-022

Refrigerator Samsung RB-30 J3200EF

Refrigerator Samsung RB-37 J5200SA

Refrigerator ATLANT ХМ 4021-000

As a rule, users look into the freezer compartment of the refrigerator much less often than into the main compartment. And often, breakdowns in which the refrigerator compartment works, but the freezer does not freeze, are not noticed immediately, but only when a puddle of melted ice forms on the floor. So you noticed that your refrigerator wept a whole sea and began to work only halfway?

The situation, to put it bluntly, is unpleasant and requires an urgent response. Especially if the window is warm and the safety of food is in question. But before calling the workshop, you need to make sure that the breakdown still takes place.

What to check first if the freezer does not work in the refrigerator?

Sometimes, the freezer does not freeze not because of breakdowns of the unit itself, but because of simple inattention during operation. Before you issue a “broken” verdict to your refrigerator, be sure to look at the thermostat data. The optimal position in which both the products are normal and there is no excessive load on the motor - between 3 and 4, which corresponds to minus 18-19 degrees Celsius. Perhaps, by negligence, you yourself unscrewed the regulator to a minimum, why did the “thaw” come in the freezer?

An equally common reason is ice buildup. If there is so much of it that the seal does not fit snugly, warm air enters the freezer. During the time when the motor "rests", the ice melts and a puddle forms under the refrigerator. It is necessary to defrost the refrigerator and carefully wipe the rubber seal.

If temperature regime selected correctly and no ice blocks were found, and the freezer still does not work, then some kind of problem has occurred.

Why is the freezer not working?

A number of breakdowns in which the freezer does not freeze have “additional” symptoms. We have organized them into a table so that you can narrow the circle yourself. possible problems and to know approximate cost upcoming renovation.

Symptoms	Possible problem	Repair cost * **
In a two-compressor refrigerator the motor working for the freezer turns on for 5-10 seconds and then turns off	Most likely, freezer motor-compressor failed. As a rule, this happens as a result of natural wear and tear during long-term operation of the unit, or due to excessive load on the motor (for example, you set the freezer thermostat to the maximum "minus" in hot weather) The compressor needs to be replaced.	from 1500 r.
The motor is running but takes long pauses(for refrigerators with electronic control).	out of order freezer air sensor. In this case, the control module does not receive information that the temperature in the freezer is below the set one, and does not turn on the motor for cooling. The sensor needs to be replaced.	from 1500 r.
The motor is running but makes long pauses(for electromechanical refrigerators)	Out of ordertemperature controller (thermostat) of the freezer. A faulty thermostat does not inform the “brain” of the refrigerator that it is warm in the freezer, so the control element does not switch the motor to cool the freezer (in single-compressor models) or does not turn on the motor at all (in two-compressor models). The thermostat needs to be replaced.	from 1500 r.
Freezer freezes but not hard enough	Sometimes, in single-compressor refrigerators with a nofrost system and a crying evaporator switching valve fails. It "sticks" in the "refrigerator and freezer cooling" position, resulting in not enough power to cool the freezer. As a result, the freezer is warm. Requires replacement of a failed node.	from 1500 r.
Rust on the body in the area of the freezer and / or the freezer freezes weakly, but now it does not freeze at all (for refrigerators with a freezer at the bottom)	Freon leaked through the steel circuit. This problem is typical for models with a bottom freezer and a “weeping” evaporator in cold store. Blockages in the drainage system cause water to accumulate under the fruit and vegetable drawers and drip onto the top and front of the freezer. In this place there is a steel circuit, protected by plastic. If water finds microcracks and gets through the plastic onto the steel circuit, corrosion begins. Subsequently, this leads to the appearance of holes through which freon escapes. It is necessary to seal and refill the system with freon.	from 2500 r.
The freezer did not work after the refrigerator was defrosted, and during the defrosting process you broke off the ice or artificially “warmed up” the freezer	Might have happened circuit damage and freon leakage. Especially if you "helped" the refrigerator by breaking off ice or putting a bowl of ice inside the freezer. hot water. Attention: please don't rush your refrigerator! Breaking ice or defrosting with heat is the most the right way"kill" modern units. Only old, Soviet models could withstand such operations! It is necessary to find the place of damage, seal the system and recharge with refrigerant.	from 2500 r.
Freezer not working, no "additional symptoms"	Most likely a problem has occurred in the control module. In this case, the refrigerator outwardly is in perfect order, but the freezer does not freeze, since the “brain” of the unit does not give the command to cool the freezer. Requires flashing or complete replacement fees.	from 3000 r.

* The table shows estimated cost. The master will provide an exact estimate for the repair after inspecting the refrigerator, taking into account the nature of the breakdown, as well as the manufacturer and model.

** Prices are indicated only for the work of the master, excluding the cost of spare parts.

Having familiarized yourself with the prices for repairs, you will probably have a question “Why overpay for the masters, can you fix it yourself?” Alas, even if you were able to determine the reason why the freezer does not work with the help of our article, this does not mean that you can fix the breakdown yourself. For quality repair you need experience and knowledge that only professional craftsmen have, as well as a considerable amount of diagnostic and repair equipment.

Self-repair often leads to even more serious, and as a result, more expensive damage to fix. For example, when installing a thermostat of the wrong resistance, the motor-compressor of the refrigerator may “burn out”, the cost of replacing which will cost a larger amount. The master does not have such mistakes as a beginner, and everything else, all work is confirmed by a warranty card. That is why it is easier, cheaper, faster and more correct to call a refrigerator repair specialist:

7 (495) 215 – 14 – 41

7 (903) 722 – 17 – 03

In urgent cases, our masters are ready to leave even on the day of treatment. All work is carried out directly at the client's home and after an hour or two your refrigerator will be back in service, ready to freeze anything!

Read more:

It is difficult to calculate the breakdown of the freezer immediately upon its appearance, because the owners of this complex household appliances look much less often than in the next compartment.

This is because it is the freezer that often fails, and the main compartment works without failures. Usually, many people find out about a breakdown in the operation of the freezer compartment when the refrigerator leaked, flooded the kitchen and defiantly began to work at half strength.

Such a breakdown requires an immediate response, especially if the safety of products is at stake and the summer heat outside the window obsessively makes itself felt. Before dialing the number of the master, you can independently verify the presence of a malfunction in the system:

Most often, people are faced with such problems of the freezer compartment:

Refrigerator freezer not working
The freezer is slightly cold.
The freezer does not work after defrosting.
The refrigerator was open - now it does not freeze.
The freezer does not freeze in Atlant, Stinol, LG, Bosch, Liebherr, ZIL, Electrolux, Samsung and units of other brands.
The No Frost freezer does not freeze.

What should be checked to make sure the refrigerator is broken?

1. It happens that there is no frost in the freezer due to the fact that the unit itself is broken. This happens when the rules of operation are violated. Before you put up with a breakdown, it doesn’t hurt to pay attention to the temperature controller. Ideally, the position of the thermostat should be between the "three" and "four". If you accidentally turned the lever to a minimum, the load on the compressor could increase, from which the freezer began to “cry”.

2. Another reason may be ice that has frozen on the walls and door of the chamber. If there is already an immodest amount of ice, the door cannot close tightly, uncooled air from the external environment enters the freezer. During a break in the operation of the motor-compressor, a block of ice decreases in volume, and the melted water flows from the refrigerator. In this case, the usual defrosting of the refrigerator and the care of the seal will be enough (it should be washed and wiped dry).

If you are satisfied with the temperature controller full order, and there is no ice and snow in the freezer and there are no puddles under the unit, then there is a high probability of a breakdown.

Below we will look at the causes of freezer breakdowns and the “symptoms” of these malfunctions.

Signs of breakdown	What's broken?
Do you have a two compressor refrigerator? When working on the freezer, the compressor turns on and after a few seconds it “goes out”	If the freezer does not work at the same time, the cause of the failure is a breakdown of the compressor motor (the main unit of any refrigeration unit). The reason could be the natural wear of the part or a heavy load on it (the regulator was set to maximum on a hot day, etc.).
The freezer compartment freezes, but makes long pauses. (Units with electronic control).	Freezer air sensor broken. Due to the failure of this part, the control system does not receive information that the freezer is not cold enough and does not signal the compressor motor to work.
For electromechanics. The freezer works, but the compressor takes long breaks.	The freezer thermostat/thermostat is broken. By the same principle as above - the “brain” of the unit does not receive information about what is in the Tashkent refrigerator, therefore it does not give the compressor a signal to switch and cool the freezer (in units with one compressor) or to the second compressor has started to work (in refrigerators with two units).
Option I: corrosion has begun on the freezer. Option II: the freezer did not freeze well at first, and then stopped working altogether. Option III: both options together.	You have a problem with freon leakage - it is typical for appliances with a bottom freezer and a “weeping type” evaporator. First, it forms a blockage in the drainage system, because of this, water collects at the very bottom - under the trays (it is not visible), and when a decent volume is collected, it begins to pour along the walls of the freezer, which starts the corrosive process. Due to the wear of the housing, refrigerant leaks. Your refrigerator needs to seal the system and refill with refrigerant.
"Asymptomatically" the freezer compartment stopped working.	Malfunction in the control module. The refrigerator at first glance is working, but the “brain” does not signal that the freezing process has begun in the freezer. You need to "reflash" the board or install a new one.
Freezer freezes slowly	Often in models of refrigeration units equipped with one compressor, the NO FROST system and a crying evaporator, the switching valve breaks. This small element jams in a position configured to cool two compartments at once. In this case, the motor power for both chambers, of course, is not enough, so there is frost in the compartment, but it is weak and not enough to freeze food. A failed node requires immediate replacement.
You defrosted the refrigerator while using sharp objects to break the ice or warmed the ice with a hair dryer / fan heater. After turning it on, the freezer stopped working.	You may have accidentally damaged the circuit, so refrigerant leakage may have occurred. Such a barbaric method could only defrost "antediluvian" refrigerators, and modern "sissies" cannot be rushed. The system needs to be sealed and refilled with freon.

If your refrigerator for the first time or repeatedly broke down, failed, the freezer stopped freezing - this is not a reason for despair. You do not have to buy a new refrigerator if you take appropriate and timely measures to repair the problem that has arisen in the systems and units of the unit.

It happens that during the operation of the refrigerator, the following situation occurs: the refrigerator does not work, but the freezer works. AT this material all possible situations in which a similar problem occurs will be considered, and it will also be described why this happens, and ways to eliminate it.

The refrigerator does not work, and the light from the inside is on: the first signs of a malfunction

You can suspect that something is wrong on this basis. The low-temperature chamber clearly freezes, but at the same time, t in the refrigerator compartment rises to about 20 degrees. Sometimes the temperature in the cells notifies alarm or the red indicator on the control panel lights up.

If the refrigerator has a mechanical temperature control, you can check it with a thermometer. The device must be placed in a glass of water and refrigerate overnight. In the refrigerator with electronic control and display, the compartment is displayed on the scoreboard. In this case, problems with the diagnosis of such a malfunction will not arise.

The next symptom is the non-stop operation of the compressor. Causes that are not malfunctions:

The chamber door is not closed tightly. Because of this, the tightness is broken and heat enters the chambers. Similar problems also arise if the sealing rubber has worn out or the equipment is installed on an uneven floor, and because of this, sagging of the door is observed.
Another common mistake that some users make is installing equipment near radiators, due to which the Nord, Indesit, Atlant or other brand refrigerator stops functioning normally. Also, do not install the refrigerator close to the wall. To fix this problem, you need to carry out a full defrosting of the equipment. After that, choose the right place for installation: away from the batteries, on a flat floor, not close to the wall.

It is forbidden to place the refrigerator near the battery

If the refrigerator has stopped cooling, there may be a lot of food frozen in the freezer. This is not allowed. There must be air circulation. When the freezer is full, all the capacity of the compressor refrigerator 1 is spent on the freezer compartment. There is simply not enough cold for the rest of the departments. It is necessary to unload the compartment, perform a defrost - and the problem will be solved.

Problems with sealing rubber. During operation, the sealing rubber may be dried or worn out. As a rule, rubber drying occurs if the equipment has been idle for a long time. If the seal is damaged, the tightness of the chamber is violated. Warm air penetrates inside, because of which the engine runs almost non-stop, but this does not help to cope with the situation, but only leads to premature wear of the motor. You can try to restore the dried sealant. Before that, you need to remove it and soak in boiling water, then install it in place.

Breakdowns leading to the fact that the freezer freezes, but the refrigerator does not

Consider the main options for breakdowns, as a result of which.

Blockage in the capillary system

The filter tube may be clogged with oil. At the same time, everything is in order with freezing, but it is warm in the refrigerator. The situation under consideration can be confused with a breakdown of a different nature, for example, a malfunction of the evaporator. To find out the exact cause, the masters analyze the temperature in the compressor-condenser section. With small blockages, you can try to deal with your own efforts. Sometimes tapping on the tube helps, but it's important not to overdo it. If this did not save the situation, it is better not to try to fix the breakdown on your own (which is not always possible to do successfully), but immediately call a qualified specialist. He will professionally clean the system, replace the refrigerant, remove excess air from the evaporator.

Where is the capillary tube located in the refrigerator

Clogged drain in refrigerator with drip defrost

Usually in all refrigerators in drainage hole located at the bottom of the back wall, there is a brush. It is recommended to regularly clean the drainage system with it. The more often you do this, the less the risk of getting a major congestion. Crumbs and other contaminants contribute to congestion. They do not allow water to drain into a special bath. Water accumulates from below, then flows out. You can clean it with a syringe. It needs to be filled warm water and forcefully squeeze into the channel. Actions must be repeated a couple of times, while not forgetting to delete all dirty water from a tray placed under the compressor.

Cleaning the drain tube with a rubber bulb

You can clean the system in another way. For example, using hand pump or soft wire. To do this, it is necessary to alternate translational and rotational movements, wielding wire. In time, this procedure takes about 3 minutes. If desired, you can combine two methods: cleaning with a rubber pear or with a wire.

To make sure the system is unclogged, pour some water into a glass and pour the liquid into the chute located next to the drain hole. If the drainage system is well cleaned, the water will leave quickly. If the water does not want to leave and stagnates, the procedure must be repeated again.

freon leak

As a result of mechanical damage or corrosive attack, the circuit of the system can be damaged. Due to the formation of microcracks, the gas escapes. The compressor, trying to make up for the lack of cooling, works almost without pause, but this is not enough. The cold may simply not be enough.

Breakdown of the magnetic valve responsible for switching modes

If the refrigerator is single-compressor, sticking is possible magnetic valve in freezer cooling mode. This node needs to be replaced.

Temperature sensor failure

The temperature sensor in electronically controlled models is located inside the chamber. It can be accidentally damaged. A sensor showing erroneous information causes the compressor to operate at increased capacities. Other sensors of the refrigerator's electronic system can also be damaged, and mechanical buttons tend to become clogged and broken. Due to a malfunction of the automation, the equipment may behave in different ways, including freezing only the freezer.

Fan motor failure

If the refrigerator makes suspicious sounds, something is wrong with it. It doesn't have to be an engine failure. Fan blades can simply freeze. To correct the situation, you need to perform a defrost.

Breakdown of one of the engines in a two-compressor refrigerator

If the refrigerator has two motors, and only the freezer is functioning, perhaps the compressor responsible for the operation of the refrigeration compartment has broken. The breakdown of another node leads to a diametrically opposite situation - the freezer does not freeze.

Refrigerators with two compressors

And the last. On the refrigerator body, inside and out, damage may occur: cracks, holes, and so on.