How to plant a blackcurrant with a sprig. Planting currants in spring or autumn in open ground - timing, choice of location. Preparing currants for winter

Blackcurrant is one of the most famous and favorite berries of most people. Possessing excellent taste, it is also extremely useful for the body. The level of vitamin C in berries is one of the highest of all known foods containing this vitamin.

These berries are used during colds, intestinal diseases, for general prevention of the body. In addition, jams, compotes, jellies and currant jams are the favorite dishes of so many people. Everyone knows about her useful properties, but not everyone knows when and how to plant it.

planting black currant

The optimal conditions for planting all types of currants are autumn. Shrubs are planted in autumn, usually at the end of October. The main thing is to plant a bush before the onset of frost.

If you plant a bush in the fall, then before the onset of spring, the soil around the bush will be compacted, and the seedling will take root well, and with the onset of the first heat, it will intensively start growing. The choice of planting site should also be approached responsibly. This plant is moisture-loving, so wet areas are suitable for it, but at the same time well protected from drafts.

Planting currants in autumn is not allowed in wetlands. the best option is medium and heavy loamy soils. Currants are afraid of stagnant water, so good soil drainage should be established.

How to plant blackcurrant in autumn

Many, having planted a blackcurrant bush, immediately forget about it, and remember only during the harvest. And, in vain.

To get good full harvest, you need to follow simple rules. The area allotted for planting currants is leveled, all depressions are filled up. Next, a spacious hole is dug - 40 cm deep and 60 cm in diameter.

The bottom of the hole is covered with a bucket of humus and added potash fertilizers not less than 100 g in the form of charcoal. Two-year-old seedlings are taken for planting, with roots 15-20 centimeters. Shoots should be at least 30-40 centimeters.

You can also use one-year-old seedlings, but at the same time their root should be sufficiently developed. There is one trick that is used by gardeners and which is the main rule when planting blackcurrants.

A bush is planted at an inclination of 45o to the ground level, so that the stems are fan-shaped and the lower buds on them are covered with earth. At least 2 buds should remain on the surface. This should be done to form a powerful healthy blackcurrant bush. Next, you should make recesses around the planted bush, pour them with a bucket of water, tamp well and lay mulch around the bush in the form of peat, compost, straw, leaves with a layer of up to 10 cm. Depending on the size and variety of the currant, the distance between the bushes is observed from a meter to one and a half. , but still it should be protected from later spring frosts, since fruit buds that have started growing can freeze, which will affect the decrease in yield. We briefly outline the rules that should be observed when planting blackcurrants:

land in October-November;

Blackcurrant provides the human body different kind vitamins (A, vitamins of group E, B, C, H), microelements (fluorine, iron, iodine, copper, cobalt, zinc, manganese), macronutrients (calcium, potassium, phosphorus, calcium). It is the most beneficial for health, gives strength and vigor. Also, blackcurrant is valued due to the content of dietary fiber, organic acids, pectins, sugar, essential oils in it. Currant leaves are also endowed with generally useful properties. After all, it has a large amount of phytoncides - these are volatile substances that fight microbes. The berry, black currant, is used for brewing various teas. With it, tea is tastier and healthier. Black currant is endowed with such useful properties:

Rules for planting gooseberries and currants

Blackcurrant is an excellent folk remedy for strengthening immunity. It contains a lot of ascorbic acid. It is rich in antioxidants. It contains many macronutrients, and without them, cellular metabolism is impossible. The microelements included in the composition are necessary for cellular metabolism. Currants are saturated with anthocyanins (these substances act as protection against various damages). It perfectly disinfects, relieves inflammation. It is advised to take it with ARVI, in the postoperative period. It has a beneficial effect on cardiovascular system. Also, it is recommended to eat it, for those who have poor eyesight or have liver problems. When eating black currant, small wrinkles can disappear. It has also been proven that currant is great for preventing serious diseases such as Alzheimer's disease, the appearance of malignant tumors .

Blackcurrant retains useful qualities, even after freezing, heat treatment. AT traditional medicine It is used to treat cough.

The most popular varieties

Variety "Ilya Muromets". He is immune to such a pest as a kidney mite. This is a strong, huge and immense bush. When ripe, the berries do not crumble. The variety "Vasilisa the Beautiful" refers to mid-season bushes. Invulnerable to powdery mildew. The Jubilee Digging variety has strong bushes and high yields. This variety is not picky about hot summers and various pests. Another variety that is immune to heat and fungal microorganisms is Selechenskaya-2. She will also grow comfortably in the shade.

How to plant currants

Planting dates for blackcurrant

The best time of the year for planting currants is autumn. Although it can be planted in the spring. But, it is not recommended to do this, since the buds bloom very quickly in the spring, and there is very little time left for the plant to get stronger. Currant bushes are planted in late September - early October, it is advisable to be in time before the start of frost.

The advantage of planting in the fall is that the earth becomes denser near the root system during the hibernation period, and in the spring the bushes wake up and begin to grow well. Currant prefers moist soil. Therefore, she will like it in the northern or northwestern part of the land.

The main thing is that the place is protected from the wind. Currant can live not only in the shade, but also where it is Sun rays but everything should be in moderation.

Soil requirements (acidity, pit depth)

14 days before the start of planting currants, pits must be dug. All harmful substances will leave the open pit, for example, chlorine, which got in when fertilizer was applied in the form of manure. This is the first step. The second step will be feeding the pit, i.e. the introduction of nutrients.

A mixture should be prepared for application to the ground in the following proportion: 300 grams of ash and 200 grams of superphosphate are taken for 1 bucket of manure. We calculate the depth of the pit. It should be twice as large as the roots of future seedlings.

A standard pit for seedlings will be a pit of this size: a width of 60 cm and a depth of almost 50 cm. Now we will talk about soil acidity. If the acidity of the soil where the seedlings will grow is 4-5 pH and lower, then 100 g of limestone is poured into the pit, for example, chalk, lime slaked with water. To maintain moisture, you need to periodically loosen the soil under the seedlings.

Proper care is the key to a good harvest

Don't forget to water

Currants are watered infrequently, usually two to three times a season. The first watering is the beginning of the growth of shoots and the formation of ovaries, the second is when the berries begin to sing, and the third watering is after the end of the harvest.

Sometimes they are watered in the fall, but this is only when there is no rain. Currants are watered in an amount per 1 sq. m. 4-5 buckets of water, in pre-built holes, about 15 cm deep. In the summer heat, it is necessary to check the soil moisture, this is done in an easy way.

It is necessary to dig up the ground for one bayonet of a shovel, if the ground is wet, then there is no need for additional watering. With a lack of moisture, the plants show a slow growth of shoots, and during the ripening of the berries, the fruits may crumble. During drought, in autumn, the bushes can freeze.

Fertilizer for blackcurrant

Sometimes in the soil, blackcurrant lacks the most useful substances. She needs to be fed. This is done throughout the entire period of growth of the currant bush.

Immediately after planting the plant in the ground, and in the first two years, the currant receives the required amount of potassium and phosphorus from the soil, which fertilized the ground before planting. At the beginning of spring, she needs nitrogen, it is brought under the currant, it is buried and watered. Three years later, in addition to fertilizing with nitrogen in spring, in autumn period about 5 kg of organic fertilizers, superphosphate (50 grams) and potassium sulphate (20 grams) are applied to the soil. If the currant grows on marsh-peat soils, then it needs to be fed every three years.

Lime must be added to the soil 4 times during the year. Also superphosphate and potassium sulfate. Currants, which grow on sandy soils. This is done in the spring.

Is pruning necessary?

Blackcurrants need to be pruned annually. Each currant branch should be renewed once every three years, as old branches give a poor harvest. Cutting currants has a beneficial effect on the formation of a bush, on constant renewal and rationing of the crop load on a bush. Currants can be cut in spring and autumn.

The main purpose of cutting in the spring is to remove frozen branches, you need to thin out the thick branches of the currant. Should be trimmed in early spring until the juice flows. Slices of branches are smeared with var. But, you need to do this as early as possible, until the buds have blossomed.

In autumn, unnecessary one-year stems are eliminated: these are branches that lie on the ground, are infected with pests that have been growing on the plant for more than two years and have a darker color.

Getting ready for winter

Preparing blackcurrants for winter requires a lot of attention. It is better to do this at the end of October, while there are no cold weather yet. AT winter period it must be protected from severe and persistent frosts, from lack of water, and from various pests. The procedure for preparing currants for wintering:

Cutting currant branches. Feeding the bush with urea. It is necessary to dig the ground around the bush, but not very deep. To keep the roots warm, the soil is mulched with dry leaves, hay, sawdust, seed husks. When the first frost hits, the currant bush is wrapped with a rope. This is done so that the branches do not rub against each other. It is also recommended to sprinkle the bush with snow, in several layers, at least 15 cm. This is done so that the plant does not freeze in the most severe frosts. For shelter, you can use everything that is under hand: old blankets, straw, cardboard boxes.

It depends on the variety, soil fertility, pruning and bush formation. Varieties with a sprawling bush shape, such as September Daniela, should be planted less often, and with a compact straight-growing form, such as Pobeda, Michurin's Memory, can be placed more densely. In the conditions of an amateur garden, a distance of 1.0 to 1.25 - 1.5 m between bushes in a row will be quite sufficient. These provisions apply equally to red and white currants.

What to accept the distance between the rows.

This value, obviously, will be determined by the specific landing site of the berries on the site. If a separate area is allocated for them, then a row from a row can be placed at 2 - 2.5 m. This distance will be quite enough for passing between the rows, for tillage, spraying, harvesting and other work for the entire time the bushes grow in one place .

And the closing of the bushes between the rows, of course, must be prevented by pruning. And if currants are supposed to be placed between young fruit trees, which is quite acceptable, then the distance between the rows of bushes will be determined by the placement of fruit trees. But the rows and the currant bushes themselves should not be placed closer than 2 m to the trees.

Why currants are planted obliquely and deeply.

For normal growth and fruiting, the bush of black currant, as well as red and white, should be renewed annually, that is, young, so-called basal shoots should appear to replace the old fruit-bearing branches. And an inclined and slightly deepened (6 - 8 cm above the root neck) planting creates conditions for the formation of a bush with a wide base. At the same time, conditions are created for better formation of additional roots and for the appearance of renewal shoots from underground buds of the buried part of the stem and root collar.

How to plant a currant seedling.

A currant bush is usually planted in a prepared planting hole together. One holds the seedling in an inclined position, straightens the roots and compacts the soil, which is poured to the base of the bush by another person.

Oblique planting blackcurrant

So A. Barto wrote about currants, without which our garden is not a garden at all. Blackcurrant is a great berry! Fragrant, vitamin, very useful!

Provides with proper care abundant harvests Every year. From the bush you can collect a bucket of berries! It enters fruiting in the second year, and a full-fledged crop can be harvested already in the third or fourth. How to plant blackcurrant and care for it?

Actually best time for planting currants - early autumn. But now they sell seedlings with a closed root system, which can be planted all season. Seedlings with a well-developed root system take root better and later bear fruit well.

It should have at least 3-5 skeletal roots up to 15-20 cm long in a lignified state, with yellowed bark, as well as a developed fibrous system. The aerial part may consist of one or two shoots up to 30-40 cm long, extending from the base of the seedling.

The density of planting currants in the garden depends on the variety, soil fertility, lighting, method of formation and pruning of the bush. Varieties of blackcurrant with a spreading and powerful crown of the bush (Bagira, Vologda, Dikovina, Belarusian sweet and others) should be planted less often, and plants with a compact straight-growing crown (Riddle, Izmailovskaya, Leningrad giant and others) - more often.

Usually, in a row, blackcurrant bushes are planted at a distance of 1 to 1.5 m. More is possible, less is not desirable. Spring planting is especially successful in areas where little snow accumulates and freezing of the roots is possible, as well as with a very late acquisition. planting material.

In these cases, seedlings are dug in for the winter. Spring planting starts early, as soon as the soil allows. Planted plants are shaded or cut short to prevent buds from blooming.

If you bought a seedling with an open root system, the root system must be wrapped with a damp cloth and on top plastic wrap or some other dense material so that the roots do not dry out. Before planting, the damaged tips of the roots and above-ground shoots are cut off.

To avoid drying, especially in bright sunlight, the roots of plants prepared for planting are dipped in a clay or earthen mash, or temporarily sprinkled with earth. Seedlings with dried roots take root much worse.

It is necessary to select planting material very carefully in connection with the widespread microplasma disease of black currant - terry and its carrier - currant bud mite. The incubation (hidden) period of the disease lasts several years.

It is impossible to detect single individuals of its carrier, a kidney tick, in the kidneys with the naked eye. Therefore, it is better to grow planting material from young healthy plants or buy it from large nurseries that produce healthy seedlings.

To get rid of the currant bud mite, blackcurrant cuttings are heated in water for 13-15 minutes in autumn at a temperature of 46 ° C or in early spring (until the snow melts) - at 43 ° C. The water temperature and the duration of heating must be strictly observed and disinfection is not guaranteed cuttings or they lose viability. Decontaminated cuttings can be damaged again by currant bud mites if there are infected bushes on the site.

Blackcurrant planting features

For planting, a hole is prepared with a diameter of 50-60 cm and a depth of 30-40 cm. Then it is filled with a mixture of earth and humus to two-thirds of the depth. From mineral fertilizers, 100 g of superphosphate and potassium chloride are added to the planting pits. Instead of potassium chloride, you can add 300-400 g wood ash

Seedlings are planted in an inclined position, approximately at an angle of 45 °. The direction of the slope does not matter, it is usually done along the row in one direction or another.

An inclined and deep planting creates conditions for better formation of additional roots and for the emergence of new shoots from the buds of the deep part of the stem and root collar. Thus, a powerful, well-developed bush with a sufficient number of branches is formed.

With direct planting, as a rule, a single-stemmed standard bush is obtained, which is used for compacted intensive culture. At the seedling, the roots are straightened and covered with earth, the soil is gradually compacted.

Moreover, when planting, the seedling should be periodically shaken slightly so that the earth evenly fills the entire space, and no voids form between the roots. The seedling is buried 6-8 cm above the root collar.

If the seedlings were not cut in the nursery, this should be done at planting, leaving no more than 3-4 buds above the surface. When the roots are already covered with soil, but the pit is not yet completely filled with earth, you need to water the plants (about half a bucket per bush), after which the pit is completely covered with soil.

After planting around the bush, make a hole and pour again at the rate of 1/3-1/2 buckets of water per bush. To retain moisture, the soil near the seedling is mulched with peat, humus, or the hole is sprinkled with dry earth so that a crust does not form after watering.

In dry weather, especially in spring, 3-4 days after planting, the plants are watered again and the soil is mulched. Black currant is very responsive to fertilizers. In fruit-bearing gardens, phosphorus (100-120 g) and potash, fertilizers at a dose of 80-100 g per bush are applied under the autumn digging of the soil.

Instead of these fertilizers, nitrophoska or nitroammofoska can be applied at a dose of 250-300 g. nitrogen fertilizers(urea, ammonium nitrate) at a dose of 140-160 g is better to apply in the spring. Currant also responds positively to foliar fertilizing with microelements and nitrogen.

What are micronutrients for? In particular, zinc enhances its resistance to diseases, boron has a stimulating effect on flowering, manganese - on productivity, copper - on growth and development.

Foliar top dressing can be given twice during the growing season: in the flowering phase and green ovary. For 10 liters of water dissolve 30 g of urea, 7-8 g boric acid, 1 g of zinc chloride, 0.5 g of copper sulfate and 0.3 g of potassium permanganate.

Foliar top dressing is best done in the evening with the help of ordinary garden sprayers. Currants should be watered regularly, preventing the soil from drying out.

Insufficient water supply, even a single drying of the soil, can lead to crushing of berries and a decrease in yield. At one time, each bush is watered with 3-5 buckets of water. To obtain high yields, currant bushes need to be formed.

Formation begins immediately after planting - all branches of the plant are cut to a length of 10-12 cm, leaving only 3-5 buds on each shoot. In adult fruit-bearing bushes, all 5-6-year-old branches and annual shoots are cut out, leaving only the most powerful ones to replace the old fruit-bearing ones.

Instruction

Since the currant begins to "wake up" after the winter very early, autumn planting is more preferable than spring. Planting time is September-November, but no later than 3 weeks before frosts begin. Plant as early as possible in the spring, as long as the soil allows.

For planting, choose a well-lit place. If there is a risk of water stagnation, provide good drainage. If flooding cannot be avoided or groundwater comes closer to the surface than 1 m, pour mounds or high bed. Plant bushes in a row at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other, between rows there should be 2-3 m. Varieties with a spreading crown require more space than compact upright ones.

When buying seedlings, give preference to zoned varieties. Choose seedlings with shoots coming from the base, 40-50 cm long. Special attention give to the root system. It should be well developed, with a strong lobe, 3-4 lignified skeletal roots 15-20 cm long. When transporting, in order to avoid drying the roots, wrap them with a wet cloth and film. If the roots are slightly dry, soak them for several hours in water, and if they are very dry, soak for a day. Before planting, cut off the damaged tips of the roots.

Immediately before planting, dig planting holes that are the size of the root system of the seedling, but not less than 40 cm in diameter and 40-50 cm deep. Loosen the bottom of the pit, pour 4-6 kg of humus or compost into it, 25 g of superphosphate and 12 g of potassium salt. If there is no organic matter, limit yourself to mineral fertilizers, increasing the dose by 2 times with the addition of 20-30 g ammonium nitrate. Mix well with loosened soil. From above, pour about 10 cm of earth from the upper fertile layer.

Dip the roots of the seedling in a clay mash, then immediately lower it into the hole obliquely and 7-10 cm deeper than it grew in the nursery. Spread the roots evenly across the width of the hole. So that during the powdering of the roots with earth, voids do not form between them in the pit, shake the seedling slightly, gradually compacting the earth. Having covered the roots with earth, water the planting (half a bucket of water per 1 bush). Fill the hole to the top, make a hole and water again. Once the water has been absorbed, cover the holes with organic mulch or dry soil. At spring planting or in dry autumn, repeat watering after 2-4 days.

After planting, cut off the aerial part, leaving stumps with 2-4 well-developed buds. It is better to do this in the spring, and in the fall, only shorten the shoots to 18-20 cm.

To protect the seedling, and especially its roots, from freezing, before the onset of frost, spud it with earth to a height of 12 cm, and then mulch the soil around it with a thick layer.

When to plant blackcurrant

Blackcurrants are best planted in autumn, but can also be planted in spring. Preference is given to autumn because in winter the soil around the shrub is compacted and this contributes to rapid and early growth in spring. In places where there is very little snow, the roots of the currant can freeze slightly and it is better to plant it in the spring. In autumn, blackcurrants are planted around the first mid-October, and in spring - as soon as the soil moves away from freezing and the snow melts.

How to plant blackcurrant

Blackcurrants generally prefer fertile light loams. For other soil types, liming is necessary.

Before planting, the ground is first dug up along the way, introducing organic fertilizers, such as humus. Then they dig a landing hole up to 50 cm wide and up to 40 cm deep. For autumn planting pits are prepared in 2-3 weeks so that the earth settles. Then it is covered almost to the very top with earth mixed with humus or peat. Before planting, currant seedlings are lowered into a clay mash, this will help to avoid drying out. Usually blackcurrant bushes are planted at a distance of 1 m from each other. The earth in the planting pit is moved apart and a currant seedling is lowered into it a little at an angle. It is deepened 7 cm below the root neck - this will allow a powerful root system to form faster and good bush. Then the seedling is covered with earth, gradually compacting the soil. At this time, abundant watering is carried out, about 1 bucket of water per bush. From above around the shrub make a hole for irrigation water. The topsoil is sprinkled with peat or humus to retain moisture. Then water again.

After about a week, the soil is loosened around the bush and watered again abundantly.

Currant - planting and care in the country

Currants are planted in early spring or mid-autumn. Planting currants in the fall is preferable, since in the spring it is necessary to have time before the sap flow begins and the buds bloom, the soil may not have time to warm up enough and the plant will die.

For currants, a sunny place is chosen, protected from the wind with well-drained, non-acidic soil (pH value 6-6.5). Fertile light loamy soil is ideal. To reduce the acidity of the earth, up to 1 kg of lime, chalk or dolomite flour per 1 sq. m.

Currants are propagated using cuttings or dividing the bush, by separating large shoots with roots from the main trunk. The cultivation of blackcurrant will be successful if you choose two-year-old seedlings up to 40 cm high, with 3-5 skeletal branches at least 20 cm long, they take root best. Consider how the planting of currants is carried out in stages.

Soil preparation

The selected area is leveled 14 days before planting the seedlings, weed rhizomes are removed and the soil is left to shrink. After 2 weeks, the site is divided into circles with a diameter of 50-60 cm, which are dug up to a depth of 40 cm. The distance between them is maintained at 1.5-2 m, when planting in rows - up to 3 m.

Three-quarters of the hole is covered with a bucket of compost or other organic matter. Add 200 g of superphosphate, 60 g of potassium sulfate or 40 g of wood ash. A little black soil is poured on top of the fertilizers so that their concentration does not burn the roots, and then planting is carried out.

planting black currant

The seedling is planted at an angle of 45 degrees, placing the root neck at a depth of 5 cm. This contributes to the growth of basal buds and the further development of a powerful root system. If you plant a seedling directly, then the bush will form a single stem.

Planting currants is completed by watering 5 liters of water per hole and another 5 liters per circular hole around it. After watering, loosening of the soil is necessary: up to 8 cm deep - directly under the plant, at a distance of 20 cm from it - up to 12 cm. Then the soil is sprinkled with fine peat or humus.

After completing the planting procedure, the seedling is cut at a height of 15 cm from the ground, leaving up to 5 buds on it. Cut branches can be stuck next to the main shoot, poured with water with the addition of Kornevin and covered with foil or plastic container, for rooting and engraftment. Pruning encourages vigorous plant growth.

Planting currants in summer video

If the seedlings were not prepared in advance, it is possible to plant blackcurrants in the summer. Most often, this is necessary when propagating currants by layering in your garden. This landing is also called seating or simply breeding. It is carried out after fruiting is completed: for early varieties - in July, and for late ones - in the middle and at the end of August.

Blackcurrant: cultivation and care

In order for berry bushes to develop well and bear fruit, it is necessary to ensure proper care for blackcurrants throughout the growing season.

Spring blackcurrant care

Before the buds appear, all old, dried or diseased branches are cut to a healthy stem, the wounds are covered with garden pitch. Nitrogen fertilizers are applied (up to 80 g of ammonium nitrate or 50 g of urea per plant) for two-year-old bushes. The soil after top dressing is dug up and watered.

At the time of formation of the ovary until the beginning of June, watering is carried out at the rate of up to 30 liters of water per bush, every 5 days. Do this in the evening, using warm water (10-15 degrees Celsius), under the root. For irrigation, it is recommended to make circular grooves 15 cm deep at a distance of 30 cm from the seedling. Contact with water on the leaves can lead to the development powdery mildew.

Mulching is desirable to improve soil moisture resistance. You can use peat, straw or newspapers. It is important to do this during the green cone and bud formation phase to prevent moisture loss.

Summer currant care

In the first half of June should be held organic feeding: up to 15 kg of humus per 1 bush, or liquid top dressing (bird droppings, diluted with water 1:10).

When there is no rain for a long time, timely watering is especially necessary. Usually a bucket of water per week is enough. Watering currants in summer becomes more frequent from late June to mid-July during the ripening of berries, and is done once every 5 days.

Currant care in June also includes pinching the tops of young stems by 2 buds to increase the number of side shoots. This procedure promotes the development of new shoots. The pinching dates are also postponed to a later date in order to delay the fruiting of the shrub.

During fruit ripening, they are applied outside root dressing: mixing 5 g of potassium permanganate, 40 g iron sulphate and 3 g of boric acid. Dissolve them separately, and then mix them together in a 10 liter bucket of water. Spraying is carried out in the evening or on a cloudy windless day.

Harvesting of berries must be done by the piece, and not plucked in a bunch. So there is less chance of damaging the plant. Watering and fertilizing are completely stopped two to three weeks before harvest.

Caring for currant bushes in autumn

Having completed the harvest, starting from mid-August and throughout September, watering is done once a week, with soil loosening to a depth of 5 cm. In a dry autumn, preparation for winter includes increased soil moisture - half a meter deep.

At the end of September, it is necessary to add organics (4-6 kg of bird droppings), or feed them with minerals: 20 g of potassium sulfate and 50 g of superphosphate. In any case, when fertilizing, 200 g of wood ash is added. After the soil is dug up and mulched to increase fruiting by next year.

Before the onset of the first frost, it is necessary to prune underdeveloped and weak shoots, as well as those that grow in the middle of the bush and thicken it. Poorly developed young branches are also subject to removal, of which only 3-4 of the strongest are left. An adult bush usually consists of 15 shoots. different years life.

Diseases and pests: prevention and treatment

To protect the plant from diseases, apply preventive measures. In the spring, before the awakening of the kidneys, the bushes are watered hot water temperature plus 80 degrees. Celsius, at the rate of 3 liters per 1 plant for treatment from pests and diseases. Also carry out timely sanitary pruning bushes to prevent thickening and regularly dig up the soil to kill pests.

During flowering and the appearance of the first leaves, additional treatment with fungicides is necessary: Alirin-B, Gamair, Forecast, Topaz, Glycoladin - from rust and anthracnose.

You can read about how to get rid of a kidney mite on a currant in our article.

Preparing currants for winter

Proper Care for blackcurrant includes preparation for winter. Weed the soil under the bushes and remove the fallen leaves.

After the onset of the first frost, the bush is pulled up in a spiral upwards with a rope, clamping it with a clothespin at the top. The earth is covered with mulch. After drop a large number precipitation at the base of the bush make a snow cushion 10 cm high, and then completely sprinkle the bush with snow.

Outcome

Growing currants on the site will bring only pleasure, as the culture is not demanding and bears excellent fruit. Carefully monitor the behavior of the plant in order to always know what it needs, do not forget about timely watering, fertilizing and preventive treatments. Then the blackcurrant, which is cared for in accordance with all the rules, will thank you with a magnificent harvest and large berries.

Species berry bushes found in suburban areas, a lot. But in the list of preferences of their owners, blackcurrant is in the first place: its planting, as well as caring for plants, does not cause difficulties, it is not afraid of harsh winters, it begins to bear fruit early and thanks the owner for care for years generous harvests. It is easy to propagate, and you can do it different ways. And everyone knows about the benefits of its berries and leaves.

Soil and lighting requirements

Blackcurrant is one of the most viable crops. It can grow almost anywhere. On sand, in dense shade or in flooded lowlands, her bushes will turn out to be less lush, but even in such conditions they will not die. The plant will be most comfortable in areas open to sunlight with moderately moist soil, protected from wind and drafts.

Shrubs are also planted in light partial shade. But in this case, expectations about the harvest should be lowered: the lack of light will make blackcurrant berries more acidic and reduce their number. To understand whether the chosen place is suitable for the plants, their appearance will help. AT favorable conditions they branch well, and their leaves are richly colored and look healthy.

Planting currants in fertile loose soil will be productive. It should freely pass air to the roots of plants and retain moisture. The ideal option for the shrub will be light loam. In dense soil, its development will slow down, and the yield will decrease. It is important to consider the reaction of the soil. It should be slightly alkaline or neutral. Currants do not like acidic soil. Such soil will have to be limed before planting.

The culture is moisture-loving, but it grows and bears fruit poorly in swampy soil. It is best to plant shrubs on gentle slopes. It will not be successful to place it in closed lowlands or on sand, as well as on lawns. The distance to groundwater should be at least 0.5-1 m.

Dates and landing scheme

Blackcurrants are planted in spring and autumn. Basically, summer residents prefer the second option. Bushes placed on plots in spring begin to grow quickly, so it is more difficult for them to take root. There is one trick in which the planting of blackcurrants at this time will be successful. For her, you need to choose plants whose root system is closed. They are easier and faster to take root in the open ground, if they are watered abundantly. You can place them in summer cottages at almost any time.

Autumn planting in conditions middle lane are usually held in early October, at the latest - in the middle of the month. Under the weight of snow, the ground around the currant bushes will naturally compact. In the spring they wake up early and show rapid growth.

Planting blackcurrants in a row has already become a tradition. This placement facilitates the care of her bushes and saves site space. 1-1.25 m is left between neighboring plants. Some summer residents increase this distance to 2 m. It is important to consider the proximity of other shrubs and trees when planting. At least 1.5-2 m recede from the first, and 3-4 m from the second. Currant grows quickly. When only 3-4 years have passed, the area that seemed bare will not be recognized.

If you want to get a crop earlier, you can leave between the bushes less space(70-80 cm). They will begin to bear fruit with a dense planting after 2-3 years, but fewer berries form on them, and they will become old faster.

Having decided to place the currant near the fence or walls of buildings, you need to leave enough space for it. The minimum distance to them is 1.2 m. It will not be possible to harvest from the branches pressed against the fence.

Seedling selection and site preparation

Preparing a place in the country for currant bushes does not take much time. If earlier this area was used for growing vegetables or flower crops, it is simply dug up well, deepening by 1 bayonet of a shovel and choosing the roots of perennial weeds from the soil. Deep depressions or pits are covered with soil, carefully leveling the surface.

Properly planting blackcurrant means taking into account the features of crop rotation. In order for the plants to have enough nutrients and they get sick less, the culture is returned to the former site only after 3 years. The same recommendation is followed if there used to be gooseberry bushes at the landing site.

For those who do not have time to wait, there are 2 options:

find another site;
retreat from the old at least 1 m.

Choosing a seedling, it is carefully examined. In a viable plant, the roots are lignified and branched. 3-5 of them should be skeletal and reach a length of at least 15-20 cm. A quality seedling has 1-2 (or more) 30-40 cm branches. The plant should look fresh and free of signs of infection and pests.

Pay attention to the specific characteristics of the variety:

its compliance with the local climate;
the presence of immunity to diseases;
frost resistance.

The harvest will be more abundant, and the berries will be larger if you plant several varieties of crops in the country. This rule applies even to self-fertile blackcurrants. Insure in case return frosts will help planting in areas of plants with different terms flowering. So even in a cold spring it will be possible to get a crop from at least a few bushes.

How to plant currants

Planting currants begins with the preparation of the pit. It is usually made shallow (35-40 cm) and wide (50-60 cm in diameter). If the soil in the country is poor, the size of the pit is increased so that it can be filled with a nutrient substrate. Lay it out in 2 layers. Fertile soil is poured at the bottom, adding the following components to it:

compost;
rotted manure (you can use peat instead);
wood ash or potassium sulfate;
superphosphate.

Fill about ¾ of the hole with this mixture. It should be under the roots of the seedling. The rest of the deepening will be occupied by simple fertile soil without fertilizers. Sprinkling it with a nutrient substrate, they begin to plant the plant.

His roots are examined. If damaged or dry areas are identified, they are cut to healthy tissues. With proper planting, the bush will be 5 cm below the mark at which it grew before it. root collar should be underground (at a distance of 6-8 cm from the surface). This will give impetus to the intensive formation of basal buds, and the bush will grow lush.

The next step is abundant watering. ½ buckets of water are brought into the pit itself and the same amount into the hole, which is made at the landing site. Then the soil under the bushes is mulched without falling asleep the plants themselves.

As a mulch you can use:

peat;
compost;
straw;
sawdust.

Recommended mulching layer thickness organic materials- 5-8 cm. If they were not at hand, use dry earth. It is poured in a thinner layer (1-2 cm). Planting ends with pruning. Only a stump is left from it, which should rise 7 cm above the soil surface. You should not feel sorry for the seedling. Already next year it will turn into a small but branchy bush. Without pruning, it will take a season longer to wait for this.

Soil treatment and watering

Legends can be made about the unpretentiousness of blackcurrant. But so that the plantings do not overgrow, and the yield does not fall, you still have to take care of them. The bush does not like neighborhood weeds. They are its main competitors in the fight for moisture and nutrients. Best of all, currants feel on soil that is clean from any other plants.

It is impossible to spray herbicides near currant plantations, so there are 2 ways to remove weeds:

weeding;
mulching.

"General cleaning" of competing plants is carried out twice per season: in spring, when fertilizers have already been applied, and in summer, when the last berries are harvested.

Blackcurrant responds well to soil loosening. For him, use any garden tools: chopper, shovel, pitchfork. Near the root neck, the soil is cultivated to a depth of 6-8 cm. Under the bushes, loosening is made more intense, affecting a 10-12 cm layer of earth. If the trunk circle is mulched, the soil stays wet longer and the frequency of loosening is reduced.

The roots of the shrub are shallow - only 50 cm from the soil surface. Therefore, currants cannot do without watering for a long time. Seedlings and young bushes are especially affected by the lack of water. Adult plants need regular moisture in June, when their shoots are actively growing and berries are pouring, and in late summer and early autumn, when they are laid flower buds next season. Drying out of the soil during this period will lead to shedding of immature berries and grinding the remaining ones. It will also have a negative impact on the next year's harvest.

If the summer turned out to be dry, the plantings are watered often (at intervals of 7-10 days) and plentifully. For each plant spend 1.5-2 buckets of water. It is more convenient to carry out watering in grooves. They are dug around the bush, retreating 20-25 cm from the tips of its shoots. If it rains periodically, 4-5 waterings per season will be enough for adult plants. Loves currants and spraying leaves. On hot days, it is better to spend them more often.

top dressing

At proper preparation planting pits, the cultivation of blackcurrant on the site in the first 2 years does without top dressing. When this milestone is passed, plants will have to be fertilized annually. Some summer residents feed plantings less often - once every 2 years. Currants respond equally well to mineral and organic compounds. They are mainly applied in autumn or early spring. Having scattered humus or compost (4-5 kg per plant) and complex mineral fertilizer (about 40 g) under the bushes, they loosen the soil.

Toward the end of spring (but before the beginning of summer), when the currant bushes enter the phase active growth, carry out another root dressing. To do this, it is good to use one of the following tools:

manure diluted with water in a ratio of 1:8;
bird droppings solution (1 part fertilizer to 10 parts water);
herbal infusion.

The nutrient composition is poured into the grooves, immediately sprinkling them. Each plant takes 1.5-2 buckets. The introduction of a comprehensive mineral fertilizer at this stage will be less useful, but you can use it.

With the onset of flowering, currant bushes are watered with infused potato peels. The starch contained in it will increase the yield of plants. Prepare a solution from dried potato peelings. They are added to boiling water (at a ratio of 1:10), covered with a lid and, having wrapped the container well, left to cool completely. For each currant bush, 1 liter of the resulting composition is spent.

In September, plantings are fed with phosphorus-potassium preparations. They will help plants survive the winter with minimal damage.

pruning

Growing blackcurrant in the country involves regular pruning. It is most convenient to carry them out in the fall, when the bush is completely exposed, exposing old and extra branches. On an adult plant, young (under 5 years old) shoots are left. Old branches are cut strictly at the level of the soil, leaving no stumps. The wound is treated with garden pitch.

Young shoots are disposed of only in extreme cases - if they:

injured;
sick;
poorly developed;
thicken the bush.

Pruning is also needed for young plants. In the first years of life on permanent place the bush is formed by shortening its shoots to 10-15 cm. After the procedure, 2 to 4 developed buds should remain on them. The following year, they get rid of small shoots, simultaneously removing weak branches. They begin to form the skeleton of the bush, leaving a maximum of 4 well-developed zero-order shoots.

A year later, the main attention is paid to the branches of the first order. Of these, the 5 most powerful are kept on the plant, and the rest are removed. By the age of 4-5, the currant bush should have 15-20 skeletal branches. In the future, the task of the gardener becomes their sanitary and rejuvenating pruning, which is carried out annually.

Props and winterization

In many varieties of currant bushes grow sprawling. This makes it difficult to care for them and leads to the fact that part of the crop is soiled in the ground. Under such bushes it is convenient to put props. You can buy ready-made ones in stores or make them yourself. The easiest option is to drive stakes around the plant and pull the branches with twine. But here it is important not to overdo it. Currant shoots should not be pressed against each other. That's right, if there is a lot of free space between them.

After autumn feeding planting spud. If the soil on the site is heavy, it is better to dig it to a shallow depth without breaking the lumps. This will keep more moisture in the ground. Light and loose soil in the near-trunk circles can simply be loosened well by 5-8 cm. But you can’t do without digging the row spacing (by 10-12 cm). Watering is also required at this time, especially if the autumn is dry. Under each plant contribute 20-30 liters of water.

Before the onset of cold weather, it is advisable to tie the bushes with a rope or twine so that the branches do not break and do not bend down to the ground under the weight of snow. You can build around them a kind of fence of stakes. In winter, the bushes are covered with a thick layer of snow.

With the advent of heat, plants should be carefully examined. Frost-beaten branches are cut out, and the remaining ones are treated with Bordeaux liquid (1%). It is worth paying attention to swelling kidneys. They may be infested with mites. Signs of its presence are a strong increase in the kidneys, their inflated rounded shape. It is impossible to leave such shoots on a bush, they must be immediately removed and burned.

The agrotechnics of blackcurrant is simple, but following it will allow you to get rich harvests of tasty and useful berries. With the planting of this particular shrub on the site, inexperienced summer residents should start their experiments. Currant, like no other culture, is tolerant of the owner's mistakes. Neither overflow, nor lack of nutrition and moisture, nor frosty winters, nor improper pruning can ruin it.

It will not bring trouble and reproduction of the shrub. The most productive are 6-year-old plants, so professionals in country affairs do not allow plantings to grow old. When the currant bush reaches the age of 3, cuttings are cut from it or a branch is bent to the ground and dug in, receiving layering. They are placed in a separate area. By the time the yield of the mother plant decreases, the first berries will already be tied on young bushes.

Dear gardeners, well, nature has woken up and it is beautiful! And we have a hot time in the garden - this is the time for sowing and planting. Today we will talk in detail about blackcurrant, how to plant it correctly, and in what time frame, care for and propagate.

1. Planting blackcurrant

There are two types of planting material, one is an open root system and the second is a container or closed root system. What are the advantages and disadvantages of one method or another? With a closed root system, it is recommended to plant at any time of the year, even in summer. With an open root system, spring or autumn is suitable.

For the selection of planting material, annual blackcurrant cuttings are well suited. When choosing the best option, you need to view so that there are three branches on the bush. Now we take a shovel and dig it out together with the root system and an earthen clod. root system in black currant it is superficial and well developed. If you have all decided to plant in the spring, then it is better to do it early, since the kidneys wake up early, i.e. after frost.

For planting, it is necessary to choose fertile soil, dig a shallow hole, provided that the soil is loose, and if the earth is dense, then it is necessary to dig deeper. Next, pour two handfuls of compost, then the same amount of superphosphate and a handful of azofoska. We mix everything well so that the roots do not touch the fertilizer, put our plant well spreading the roots and dig in. After that, we fill it with water and again sprinkle it with earth and form a fence near the bush so that the water does not spread when watering.

At the final stage, we cut off the upper branches strongly, leaving about four buds, or, as noble gardeners say, the ratio of the root system should correspond to the upper branches. And besides, it will be better to fluff up and be a full-fledged bush.

When planting black currants with a closed root system, we take a container, lower it into the prepared hole, cut the wrapped film, weeds and level the roots. Since the soil in the container was fertile, we do not add fertilizers, we fill it with excavated soil from the hole, we fall asleep, we moisten it and we make a bardyurchik. With this type of landing, the survival rate is much higher.

2. Blackcurrant care

In order for blackcurrant bushes to give a good harvest for six years, it is necessary to properly care for it, now let's dwell on the main points:

1. How to spray currants in the spring before bud break?

Currants very rarely get sick, but for the prevention of a healthy shrub, one should still be warned against certain diseases and pests. There are cases that blackcurrant is affected by scale insects, aphids, currant goldfish, sawflies and other pests.

In this case, it must be sprayed before bud break, that is, after frost. For this, it is necessary to use Bordeaux liquid with the addition of additional preparations, and the solution is prepared according to the following recipe.

Components:

water - 9 liters:
copper sulfate 3% - 100 grams;
quicklime - 200 grams;
softened laundry soap- 1 piece.

First, laundry soap is poured warm water, dissolve until softened and combine with all the provided components, stir well and spray the blackcurrant bushes. You can also buy on the market for spraying blackcurrant bushes effective drugs: "Mavrik" or "Apollo".

2. Watering blackcurrant

Blackcurrant does not tolerate drought, so it must be watered at the time of its development of shoots, flowering and the birth of berries (somewhere in June-July). For the birth of a new crop next year, currants also need moisture in early autumn. If the weather during these periods is rainy, then watering can be limited.

With a lack of moisture, the berries will dry out and crumble, and if they remain, they will be small and not fragrant. Approximately it is required to pour water under each bush more than six times a decade. Waterlogging is also not allowed, the roots will slowly rot and the bush will dry out completely.

Watering is better to carry out with warm water in the sun, and not cold and make sure that the water does not fall under the very root, when watering, retreat a little. After watering, loosen the soil and can be mulched to retain moisture longer.

3. Blackcurrant pruning

Currants can be cut in autumn or spring before bud break. Before pruning, you need to carefully examine the shrub, as there are branches of various ages. There are light twigs - whitish, they have a tender bark, which means they are last year's and annuals. Darker, brownish bark are biennial shoots. And completely dark - these are three-year-olds. There are also very old ones, on which outgrowths of lichens, mosses appear, they become weak and dry.

At least 15 branches should be left on a developed shrub different ages. Moreover, the youngest should be two more than the oldest. The fruits will be tied on one-year-olds, two-year-olds and three-year-olds. The older the branches, the fewer berries there will be, so we need to get rid of them. And we do this every year.

And so, first of all, we remove all dry branches, cut them to the very bottom, leaving no stumps. Next, cut off the broken and blackened. You should not leave drooping branches, berries will appear on them, they will sink even more strongly to the ground, there will be little light and the berries simply will not have time to ripen.

If there are long branches and fray with others, then they are also not needed. There are still small offspring at the very bottom, they should be cut off. With this pruning, you can get a good harvest next year.

3. Reproduction of blackcurrant

Let us consider in detail what are the methods of reproduction of blackcurrant:

1. Reproduction of currants by dividing the bush

This breeding method is very simple and is used when it needs to be done urgently and quickly. There are times when a good and valuable variety I want to keep it, but I need to transfer it from one garden to another.
In this case, the developed shrub must be dug up and completely unearthed without damage. Then take a pruner, a handy hatchet or a file and divide it into several parts. Do everything carefully and carefully, because otherwise, the survival rate may not be 100%. Complete landing in the holes continue as directed

2. Reproduction of currants by layering

This type of vegetative propagation is not difficult, but some expert advice needs to be remembered. First you need to select a bush, from which to select a strong branch, which should be reflected to the side. It can be one or two years old, and the closer to the ground, the better.

Here you should dig a groove, add humus and autumn leaves, pin a twig convenient fixture and cover with earth. You can cut the clothespin yourself from a strong and unnecessary branch. The layer of earth on the surface should not exceed more than 2.5 centimeters. Leave the tops of the branches on top. If you fall asleep completely, then the branch can completely die off.

In the spring you can see a miracle - i.e. many new accustomed layers. Which in the spring cut from the main bush and dig. Then take a pruner and separate the seedlings from one another. From one layer, you can get about ten seedlings, which should be planted or sold immediately. Economical, easy and pleasant.

3. Propagation of blackcurrant cuttings

Usually, blackcurrant propagation by cuttings is carried out in August or September. Possible in early spring. For cuttings, a normal increase or two summers is suitable. The main thing is to have sleeping kidneys. We cut off the selected shoot and on it from below we make an oblique cut under the kidney. It turns out on the one hand a kidney, and on the other hand an oblique incision.

After measuring 20-25 centimeters of the cutting and cut off at a distance of two centimeters above the upper kidney. From this branch we continue to prepare cuttings. It is advisable not to use the top of the cutting, as it is weak and good luck cannot be seen. The seedling will grow, but it will be frail and not particularly thoroughbred for the future.

The cuttings should be as thick as a pencil and not thinner. After planting in the ground, so that it is fluffy, and the cutting itself is placed at an angle of 45 degrees. Above the ground, leave only one kidney, which is directed upwards. The gap between the cuttings should be 10 centimeters. After planting, water a little and wait for next autumn. Then transplanted into the ground, but you can’t leave it in the school.