Fences for currant bushes. How best to fence currant bushes with do-it-yourself manufacturing methods

Everyone knows how to properly cut currants! Even green gardeners pick up a pruner and boldly begin to cut out diseased, underdeveloped currant stalks. But, after trimming, they always have a question:
Is the bush trimmed correctly, are there many pagons removed? And was it worth it to remove 2-3 summer branches, because branches of the current year are always formed on them.
Let's talk a little about this topic, since there is a lot of fog - there is no clear picture of currant pruning.
I formulated all the pruning rules in ten points, so it will be much more convenient to remember them.
And so we begin to dance from the threshold.

RULES FOR PUTTING CURRANT

1. When cutting black currant you need to remember that fruit buds are laid on the growth of the current year.

2. The greater the growth, the higher the yield of berries for the next year.

3. If pruning is not carried out, then the bush gives a good harvest for two to three years. Then it thickens greatly, which means that the annual growth decreases markedly and the currant begins to bear fruit only at the ends of the shoot. The harvest will decrease every year.

4. Be sure to trim when planting young seedling. When planting, the seedling is buried 15 cm into the soil and left 3-5 buds above the ground. During the growing season, good care a branch about 70-80 cm long grows from each bud. In the second year after planting, the first crop is formed on these branches.

5. After harvesting, the fruiting branches are cut out, making room for
young.

6. The number of young shoots must be regulated based on the strength of the bush. If you do not carry out this operation, then next year you will receive bountiful harvest, and growth will be poor. And this means that next year the crop will be lost.

7. On weak bushes with poor annual growth (35-40 cm), 4-5 buds are pruned. No need to chase a small crop this year - your task is to increase the strength of the bush, grow a strong, healthy plant.

8. When forming a bush, take into account varietal characteristics.
In early-growing varieties, this is hybrid varieties, the harvest of the first year is high (berries grow along the entire length of the shoot). In the second year there is a noticeable decrease in yield. What to do? Read point 5.

On ordinary varieties, berries grow at the top of the shoot. Therefore, in the second year, in addition to zero shoots, lateral shoots of the second order also grow intensively on fruit-bearing branches below the fruiting zone. How to prune on such bushes? Immediately after collection, zero shoots and the fruiting part are removed.

VERY IMPORTANT POINT! ONLY PART OF THE ESCAPE IS REMOVED! Why? Because ordinary varieties of currants mainly bear fruit on two-year-old branches.

9. Regulate the number of branches. How long should you leave them? It all depends on the strength of the bush. On the average - you can leave from 9 to 12. On a strong plant, 15 is allowed. On a weak one, no more than 5.

10. Be sure to carry out radical rejuvenating pruning on old (no more than 6-7 years old), but good-yielding bushes. Cut off all the old pagons completely. It is possible in this case to apply, and more gentle pruning - remove all the old ones, and leave a few young ones. The following year, many young shoots will grow on the rejuvenated bush - do not forget to thin out such a plant.

Middle band currant in the second half of May for ten to twenty days. Pollen is sticky and not easily carried by the wind. To attract pollinating insects to the plantings, the bushes are sprayed with a solution prepared from a tablespoon of honey and a liter of water.

It has a positive effect on the yield of currants and cross pollination pollen of a different kind. To make this possible, two or three varieties of currants are placed on the plot of land intended for planting this crop, which differ in terms of ripening. In order to prevent shading of plants with such a variety, varieties in which the bushes have a sprawling shape are planted less often than varieties with a compact crown. Unlike black currants, red currants do not require cross-pollination to increase their yield.

Due to the lack of moisture in the soil, currants can shed already formed ovaries. To prevent this and increase the future harvest, plantings are watered if necessary. In a dry year, after the end of the flowering of currants on square meter soil will need four buckets of water. After absorbing moisture, the earth is mulched. The same operation is done during the formation of berries.

Currant consumes a fairly large amount nutrients. To obtain high yields of this berry, it is necessary to replenish the loss of compounds taken out by the plant from the ground. As experiments show, good result can be achieved if one hundred grams of soil contains at least thirty milligrams of phosphorus pentoxide available for shrubs and twenty-five milligrams of potassium oxide. In order to bring the content of the necessary compounds in the earth to the desired concentration, thirty grams are applied per square meter of soil every year. ammonium nitrate, eighty grams of superphosphate and twenty-five grams of potassium sulfate. Planting ammonium nitrate is fertilized in early spring when the soil is moist. Other substances are scattered in the fall into furrows dug along the border of the crown of the bush.

The main crop of blackcurrant is concentrated on two- or three-year-old shoots. Older branches produce fewer berries, and therefore the plants are shaped by pruning in such a way that three to four annual shoots remain on the bush annually, which will gradually replace the six-year-old branches that are removed. For red currants, the productive age of the shoot increases to seven years. Gradual pruning can restore the yield of a bush that has not been shaped. To do this, within two to three years, all old branches are removed from the currant. Plant pruning is carried out, as a rule, in the fall, after leaf fall.

Save so you don't lose!
When to start rejuvenating a currant bush?
Usually, when the currant steps over a dozen years or a little more, the bush is simply uprooted, the soil is allowed to rest for a couple of years, adding organic matter (a bucket to the place where the bush grew) and mineral fertilizers(a tablespoon of nitroammophoska).
And then, if a healthy bush previously grew in this place, a new one is planted. But there are exceptions - for example, a gardener really likes a particular variety, say " A little prince”, and it simply does not exist in any nursery in the region, or there are seedlings and there are many of them, and the gardener no longer has the physical strength to uproot old bush, and then plant a young seedling on the site.
But, generally speaking, the cardinal pruning of the currant bush, its actual rejuvenation, should take place already in the year of planting this seedling on the site. They planted a seedling, it doesn’t matter - in autumn or spring, obliquely, and cut off all the shoots, leaving only parts of them with five buds on each growth - here is the first serious pruning and the first rejuvenation, because the youngest shoots will grow from the buds.
The optimal time for pruning currant bushes
Most gardeners tend to fall pruning as soon as most of the currant leaves are on the ground, that is, they fall off naturally. Other gardeners (there are a little less of them) say that it is better to cut currants in early spring, but in this case it is strictly necessary to have time to complete all pruning operations before the buds open, that is, to carry it out while there is still snow underfoot.
In addition, in the spring there is one significant advantage of pruning currants in the spring - the branches affected after the winter are visible, they must be cut first.
Both spring and autumn pruning currants, in essence, are equivalent, the main thing is to carry out anti-aging pruning.
Six main reasons for rejuvenating currant pruning
Rejuvenating currant pruning must necessarily include the removal of branches older than five years of age, all vertically oriented shoots, that is, tops and very weak shoots (thinner than a simple pencil with pointed edges, which are practically useless).
The currant bush needs to be urgently rejuvenated in the following cases:
If he is seriously ill, when it is appropriate to leave only healthy shoots.
If the bush has become simply huge, it has “collapsed” around the site, and it is already interfering with neighboring plants.
If a large number of shoots have appeared, which are actively trying to get into the center of the crown, which will certainly cause it to thicken.
In the event that you got a plot with already old currant bushes, and you are not yet ready to uproot them.
When the plant "knocked" more than seven years, and the yields became simply miserable.
In the event that for some reason it was damaged root system, then the difference between the aboveground and underground parts is great, and this drawback must be eliminated.
Lightening the center of the crown of a currant bush naturally leads to an increase in yield, a decrease in the risk of fungal diseases, and also eliminates the need to treat plants with harmful chemicals, reduces the number of pests, and increases plant immunity. There will be much less work to care for more accurate and young currant plants.
Features of pruning currant bushes
Firstly, no rainy weather, although water is useful to all living things, there may be bacteria in its drops, so when you cut a shoot and a drop of water falls on it, it is likely that the plant will already be infected.
Pay attention to cutting tools - saws, hacksaws, pruners, garden knives, axes - everything should be sharp and clean. Take a jar of alcohol and cotton wool with you, and as soon as you move from one plant to another, be sure to wipe the blade cutting tool alcohol to disinfect it and prevent the spread of infection.
After pruning the currants, be sure to remove all the cut shoots as soon as possible, they may have pests that, having sensed something was wrong, literally rush into the soil in search of shelter, you can’t hesitate with this - they cut it off and burned it.
If you got currant bushes older than seven years, and you want to rejuvenate them, then do not do it in one year, stretch the rejuvenation of such plants for two years, and preferably three, so that the plant does not experience severe stress from removal a large number escapes at the same time.
You should also know that, like the age of a person, the age of a plant is not infinite, so a blackcurrant bush with more fibrous and active roots can be rejuvenated four times in its entire life. But for colored currants, in which the root system is more pronounced towards the core, rejuvenation should be carried out no more than three times during the life of the plant, then it is still more expedient to uproot the bushes. Why only triple rejuvenation? Because the maximum age of currant life, as a plant, is usually calculated (according to experience) 30-35 years.
Currant rejuvenation - a guide to action
IN autumn time the first thing to do is to choose the wood that we will remove and the one that we will leave. We will immediately understand how radical our further actions in terms of pruning will be. The darkest one is the old wood, it must be removed, leaving only shoots with light wood.
If you prune in the autumn, then you need to water the bushes by pouring a couple of buckets of water, and if in the spring, then it is better to feed them with nitroammophos, dissolving a teaspoon of fertilizer in a bucket of water, and pour this amount of liquid under each rejuvenated currant bush.
In addition to pruning old wood, cut into a ring all the shoots that are twisted, growing deep into the crown, all those that were broken by snow or after harvesting, remove all diseased currant shoots.
The main rule in this case: you should leave the most lively, young shoots of currants and, like a sculptor, “remove everything superfluous” so that the plant comes to life, and young shoots begin to develop as actively as possible, without interference. Here, the shoots formed from the roots (from under the ground) will also start to grow.
Many people think that it is difficult to activate the growth of such shoots (“nulls”) in currants, in fact, not: all you need to do is cut a couple of old branches into a ring and nulls will begin to appear above the soil surface.
By the way, nulls are very useful in terms of updating the currant bush, they are strong, the main thing is not to let them form tops, that is, shoots that grow strictly vertically and grow at the very base of the null. Yes, and there is also no need to leave too many nulls on one plant, otherwise we will thicken the bush, it is enough to leave only the three strongest and strongest nulls, and remove the rest from the soil surface.
Also, be sure to cut the tips of all the currant shoots that are left a couple of centimeters, this simple technique will help thicken the shoots, they will stop stretching into a string and form on them large quantity inflorescences, and at the same time - and berries.
Interestingly, with the help of such pruning, it is quite possible to rejuvenate even currant bushes that are a dozen and a half years old, but in this case you need to act “barbarically”: just take and cut the entire bush, leaving only a part of each shoot with a couple or three live and healthy kidneys on it.
Further, a currant bush subjected to such an execution must be watered with three buckets of water if pruning was carried out in the fall, or fed with a tablespoon of nitroammophoska, also necessarily dissolved in a bucket of water.
In the future, such a currant bush will begin to grow actively, a lot of shoots will form and you will need to choose about five pieces from a whole bunch of young branches, and ruthlessly remove the rest by cutting them into a ring. After such pruning, when carrying out only sanitary pruning you can forget about rejuvenating pruning for eight or even nine years.
The easiest way to rejuvenate a currant bush
There is an option for the simplest rejuvenation of any old currant bush - in early spring or late autumn, you simply remove a quarter of all shoots by cutting near the soil surface, and so on for four seasons in a row, the main thing is not to confuse and cut the same shoots two seasons in a row, otherwise There will be no sense from such anti-aging pruning.
Caring for rejuvenated currant bushes
Naturally, this frequent watering(once a week for a bucket of water), weeding (it is desirable to maintain the bite zone under black fallow), loosening the soil (to a depth of 3-4 cm), weed control, diseases and pests.
Further, top dressing: it is best to use nitroammophoska in the spring in the amount of a tablespoon diluted in a bucket of water under each bush, after loosening the soil and removing all weeds. In the middle of summer, you need to dilute a teaspoon of potassium sulfate and superphosphate in a bucket of water and also pour this amount under each bush, also loosening the soil and removing all weeds, and in autumn time water-charging watering should be carried out by pouring 2-3 buckets of water under each bush of already rejuvenated currants.
Conclusion. As you can see, there is nothing complicated in currant rejuvenation, there are no special secrets and mysteries. The main thing is to choose a dry and sunny autumn or spring day for this, arm yourself with a sharp and clean pruner or garden knife, cut off the old, already blackened wood, put the young shoots in order, removing those that grow deep into the crown, and then monitor the appearance new shoots - choosing the strongest and most well-developed ones - is the key to the future harvest.
Of course, all this time, the currant bush needs to be nurtured like a child - protected from diseases and weeds, loosen the soil, water and fertilize, then it will not be necessary to plant it on the site at all. new variety currants - the old one will still live for a very long time.

Scalding currants improves the phytosanitary microclimate in the garden, increases productivity. Such shock hot prevention develops in plants resistance to various negative manifestations of the external environment, increases the ability to survive in adverse conditions.

Optimal watering time

Currants should be scalded in March-April, when the snow still lies in places, it has not yet completely melted, and the buds are just about to wake up, do not swell, but change color quite a bit, preparing to swell. If the buds have already begun to open, it is already too late to scald the currants - the buds will get burned, which can lead to crop loss.

Method of watering with boiling water

carefully examine the currant bushes to find those on which there are pests (currant bud mites, ants, powdery mildew, aphids, etc.);
consider in what order which plants need to be processed;
prepare all the necessary items, tools: a thermometer, boiling water, a bucket with a ladle or a watering can with a divider grid.

How to water bushes

The technology of such irrigation is not complicated:

pour boiled water into the existing container and immediately go to the desired bushes;
On the way, the water temperature will drop to 80°C. And the water pouring onto the branches and soil will already be about 60 ° C;
To control the desired temperature of boiling water that is safe for currants, you need a thermometer. If the water is less hot than necessary, the desired result will not be achieved; if it is hotter than necessary, the bush can be burned;
it is necessary to pour currants with boiling water evenly, without missing a single branch, in order to secure the currants at 100%. The soil around the bushes must also be carefully cultivated, just try to avoid getting boiling water on the roots. To protect the roots from burns due to boiling water getting on them, you can lay wooden or metal sheets, heat-resistant film, slate, plywood closer to the root neck of the bush. You can add a thick layer of earth so that the water cools down a little and does not burn the roots;
it is necessary to observe the necessary safe distance between the branches and the watering can - 10 cm, no less!
on average, one bush takes five to six liters of boiling water;
scalding each branch, parts of the plant need no more than five seconds.

Attention! Even if any branches were missed, it is strictly forbidden to re-treat with boiling water!

Such hot treatment of bushes in early spring is the most environmentally friendly and effective. After all, processing branches with chemicals can leave unwanted marks on the berries, which will become poisonous. It should also be taken into account: if currants can fall under frost in spring, then preventive hot watering should be carried out in the fall, around November (at the beginning, middle or end of the month - depending on the climate in a particular region). The bush should begin to dry out before the onset of winter, when not a single green leaf is left on the bush. After hot currant treatment, it is useful to spray the bush for several days with a solution of zircon - it adapts the plant to autumn temperature changes, to harsh winters.

1. For good harvest currant is very important make three plentiful waterings:

The first - at the end of flowering (approximately the first decade of June).
The second - during the growth of the ovaries (the third decade of June).
The third - during the ripening of berries. The water consumption rate is 4 buckets per bush.

2. A rich harvest is obtained if in spring the ground under the bushes is well loosened, and then mulched (that is, covered with organic matter: hay, straw, buckwheat husks, weeds) and watered with Baikal EM-1.

3. In addition, during the vegetative period it is necessary make four dressings:

The first - as soon as the buds have blossomed: 2 tablespoons of ammonium nitrate per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate - 1 bucket per bush.
The second - in mid-June: 1 tablespoon of urea, 1.5 tbsp. superphosphate and 0.5 tbsp. spoons of potassium sulfate per 10 liters of water. Consumption rate - 1 bucket per bush.
The third - in late September - early October: 0.5 cups of superphosphate and 2/3 cups of potassium sulfate per 1 bush.
The fourth - at the end of October: 0.5 buckets of rotted manure under a bush.

4. For a good harvest you need cut all excess branches. Most fruits in blackcurrant ripen on two-year and three-year-old shoots. Older ones give fewer berries. Therefore, plants must be formed in such a way that 3-4 annual shoots remain on the bush annually. And all that are older than 6 years must be cut out. This is best done in the fall, when the leaves have fallen from the plant.

5. Currants are pollinated by bees. Currant bushes during flowering are useful to attract insects. spray with honey. And to attract more of them, the plants must be sprinkled with sweet water: 1 tbsp. dissolve a spoonful of honey in 1 liter. water and sprinkle the bushes.

6. Potato peels - rich a source of starch that currants need so much. From him, her berries grow to the size of a cherry. Therefore, make it a rule not to throw away the potato peel, but to collect, dry and store until the right time. Cleanings dry perfectly on a radiator or simply laid out in one layer on a windowsill. It is better to store them in cloth bags.

All spring and summer, bury dry potato peelings under the bushes or brew them with boiling water, and use the cooled broth to water the currants.

7. Wormwood planted under bushes or flower pot with geranium they will drive away the tick, and the aphid, and the sawfly. Garlic also helps. When he starts the arrow, it should not be removed immediately, but gradually broken by 1.5-2 cm so that phytoncides stand out longer.

8. Very effective method of dealing with spider mite : set fire to old rubber (hoses, galoshes) in a bucket, put out the fire and put it downwind as far as the bush.

9. The preparation EM-5, created on the basis of Baikal, has proven itself very well in the care of currants. The microorganisms included in it not only devour the aphids, but also give the plant health and strength. And most importantly - this drug is safe for currants both during flowering and after. The bush with this preparation should be sprayed several times in dry weather.

CUTTING TECHNOLOGY TO INCREASE CURRANT HARVEST

Amateur gardener Mikhail Rudenko from Moscow has invented a way to double the yield of currants. According to him, the method is derived from a combination of his own skills and some well-known agricultural practices. The increase in yield is achieved in the third year.

In spring and summer, currant cuttings should be pinched off the upper sprout bud, at the moment when it has reached a height of 20 cm. The twigs grown from this bud next spring should also bud off when they reach a length of 10 cm. At the end of the season, new shoots will grow from the buds at the base of these twigs, which will be super-fruitful the next, the third year after the first operation.

In subsequent years, the bush should no longer be pruned, and the size of currant berries increases after these procedures by 1.5 times.

HOW TO REJUVENATE A BLACKCURRANT BUSH AND INCREASE YIELD

To rejuvenate the blackcurrant bush and improve the yield, you need to do its thorough pruning. For the growth of zero shoots (they come from the underground stem part), cut out infertile branches of all ages. First of all, remove the broken, shaded ones - the lower ones, lying on the ground and located inside the bush. Remove any weak annual shoots. Of the strong ones, leave no more than 2-3 to replace the old ones to be removed.

If there are no strong zero shoots, thin out in different parts bush where it is desirable to cause the growth of zero shoots, cut an additional 2-3 strong, but old branches.

Do not remove all old unproductive branches in one year. Cut them out in 2-3 years, replacing them with new ones formed from zero and, in extreme cases, from top shoots. For old branches that are left, cut the ends to stronger lateral branches on old wood to enhance growth on the branch and increase the size of the berries. Shorten strong annual zero shoots and tops to a zone of growth and fruiting.

If zero shoots do not grow, it is necessary to next year, except for one or two branches, cut out the tops that have arisen in the lower parts of those old branches that are to be removed only next year.

Thus, in 3-4 years it is possible to bring the ratio of branches in the bush different ages to normal, and then continue trimming according to the accepted rules.

Have a rich harvest!