When to cut a spathiphyllum flower. What is a flowering spathiphyllum? Features of care. Watering - frequent

Spathiphyllum also has a second name - women's happiness. This is a perennial plant belonging to the araceae family. Found in South America and East Asia. In nature, they grow along river banks or swampy forests. Spathiphyllum leaves are long and oblong green in color, which grow towards the base of the cutting. Since there is no trunk, the leaves grow from a rosette.

With proper care, like , it blooms from March to October. Spathiphyllum inflorescences are collected into a spadix and covered with a white petal. To increase the flowering period, it is necessary to trim off the fading flower stalks. There are many varieties of the plant, some of them reach up to 1 meter in height. But there are also simply miniature varieties that easily fit on the windowsill.

According to the latest data, this wonderful plant has 45 various types, of which only a small fraction is sold in our garden centers. The name spathiphyllum has its roots in the Greek language and means, in translation, a bedspread leaf.

In Russia, women believe that this flower brings happiness, because even adults sometimes believe in miracles. This is probably why the resilient flower became a symbol of family happiness. Even the way the peduncle appears is very unusual. A petiole emerges from the ground, which over time turns into a flower resembling a bride's veil.

This wonderful flower grows very quickly. You should choose a place in the apartment that is bright, but without direct sunlight, in partial shade. The more shadow there is around the place where the spathiphyllum grows, the darker the leaf becomes and elongates in length. If there is a lot of shade, then the flower will not bloom in it.

The plant can also be placed on northern window sills, but on a southern oriented window sill it blooms more profusely and grows much higher. It should also be taken into account that in summer it does not tolerate direct sunlight and it must be protected and placed deep in the room.

Since the plant is thermophilic, in the warm season it likes temperatures no higher than 22 degrees. In winter, it is necessary that the room temperature does not drop below 18 degrees. If the lower limit is less than the specified temperature, the plant first stops growing and then may even rot. Therefore, if such a situation arises with a decrease in temperature, it is necessary to reduce watering. Spathiphyllum does not tolerate cold winter drafts.

Watering in spring and autumn should be plentiful - the soil should not be allowed to dry out. Spathiphyllum is very responsive to spraying with warm, settled water. If the air in the room warms up above 30 degrees, then the flower should be placed on a tray with wet expanded clay and sprinkled with water more often and watered less. Since at high temperatures the flower stops absorbing water by its roots. And its excess can lead to rotting of the roots.

Flower growers also have one more know-how. In hot weather, spathiphyllums are placed on a cat tray, the one with a mesh. It is bought in pet stores; you can choose the simplest and most inexpensive one. Water is poured into the tray, but so that it does not rise above the mesh, and now a pot with a flower is placed on the mesh, but without a tray. Since excess water after watering will flow into the pan and there will be no stagnation of water.

Since the homeland of spathiphyllum is places with a warm, humid climate, the plant is very fond of showers with warm water, but the root system, when we pour the shower over the flower, must be protected from being washed out. For example, put a flowerpot with a flower in a bag and wrap it in cellophane so that only the foliage comes out.

During the phase of active growth, spathiphyllum, like , is fed with low concentration mineral fertilizer. We must not forget that fertilizing with any fertilizers is carried out only after watering the wet soil. This is done in order not to damage the root system.

What should you do first after buying a flower? It is necessary to replace the soil in which it was grown in the greenhouse. The plant has very thin and vulnerable roots, so to reduce stress, the plant must be replanted as carefully as possible.

The soil should be slightly acidic and loose, since excess moisture is very harmful to the plant. You can take ready-made earth mixture for decorative deciduous flowers, or you can make your own. Equal shares are taken:

leaf soil;
turf land;
humus;
peat;
sand;
pieces of charcoal.

The container for transplantation is taken four centimeters larger than the previous one. If you take a pot that is too large, it will slow down flowering. Transplantation is carried out either in the spring or after purchase, but in any case, the root must be provided with warmth and frequent spraying.

These are the conditions that will help the root system, and therefore the entire plant, to take root in the new pot. The flower will take root faster if it is sprayed with epin and covered with a bag, creating a greenhouse microclimate, but not forgetting to ventilate it once a day for 10 minutes.

The plant is propagated in the spring by dividing the rhizomes. To do this, during transplantation, the pot is not enlarged, but a couple more similar pots are taken. The rhizome is cut into two or three parts with a sharp knife so that each part contains growth buds and at least three leaf blades. The bush is divided at a temperature of 22 degrees Celsius. Each individual sprout is planted in small containers according to the size of the root system and watered with warm water. It is good to take soil for aroids.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom, what should I do?

There can be many reasons for not flowering. In its homeland it blooms from spring to autumn. If home flowering does not occur after store flowering, then it is worth trying to find out the reasons for the lack of bud formation.

One of the reasons that spathiphyllum does not bloom is that the pot is too large, and it begins to bloom only when the roots are completely entwined with earth. Therefore, if the ambient temperature allows, we transplant into a smaller pot, which should be only 3 cm larger in diameter than the root system.

There is no flowering because the lighting of the plant is not selected correctly. Spathiphyllum is shade-loving flower, not tolerant of direct sunlight. You can also change the location of the flower, perhaps it is too dark or, on the contrary, too hot in the same place.

The flower needs to be provided with a place where it will have enough diffused light. For example, put it on the eastern window or, if there is none, then on the southern one, but on a stand near the window covered with translucent tulle. If there is insufficient lighting, flowering may stop. And do not forget to cut off the faded buds at the very base, this stimulates the appearance of new flower arrows.

The plant loves moist air. If you choose the wrong watering, you can not only wait for flowering, but you can completely destroy the plant. Watering must be done by spraying, without which the foliage droops and loses turgor. Without proper watering, you won’t be able to wait for flowering; we must remember that in the summer this plant is still a water-drinker. If there is a lack of water, the leaves become limp, and if there is an excess of moisture, the leaves will bend to the sides.

If the air in the room is too dry in cold weather, then the spathiphyllum also stops forming buds, and those released in dry air will also dry out.

Lack of flowering may also be due to excessive feeding of the plant with nitrogen fertilizers. In the warm season, you need to feed the plant at least once every seven days. And in addition to nitrogen, the fertilizer should also contain potassium, which promotes the formation of flower buds.

Why do the leaves turn yellow?

Very often the leaves of newly purchased spathiphyllums turn yellow. This suggests that the flower urgently needs to be transplanted into a new nutrient substrate, since the peat is designed only to sell the plant.

The cause may be direct sunlight on the leaves, resulting in sunburn. On a south-facing window without protection from the sun, the foliage gradually brightens and fades. Yellow spots appear on the leaves in the form of a mosaic or stripes. The green color of the leaves cannot be returned, but it is necessary to remove them in partial shade so that the next growing leaves will be green.

It is necessary to move it to a window sill with a northern orientation or, if this is not possible, leave it on south side, but on the table so that there is tulle between the pot with the plant and the window sill.

The second reason may be chlorosis, a mosaic coloring of the leaf due to starvation or a complete lack of nutritional supplements in the form of microelements.

In this case, you need to transplant the flower into new fertile soil and feed the plant with complex fertilizer. If it really is chlorosis, then you need to spray it with iron chelate.

The cause may also be aging of the leaves - this is inevitable. But if other leaves grow, then it’s okay.

Why do the leaves turn black?

Often, when growing a flower, the leaves begin to turn black, this is due to the fact that the plant is subjected to excessive watering, during which not only the leaves turn black, but the roots may also rot. Blackening spreads from the tips of the leaves to large area surfaces. There is a yellow border between the black area and the normal leaf.

It is necessary to correct the watering regime, without waiting for the leaves to droop before watering. After all, if you constantly dry the soil completely, then the tips of the leaves will inevitably dry out. The ideal watering regime is when the soil dries to one-fourth the height of the pot.

Also, blackening of the leaves occurs not only from spathiphyllum flooding, but also when there is a lack of minerals or the air in the room is too dry. For example, with a lack of nitrogen, the very tips of young leaves turn black.

It is necessary to feed the plants with complex fertilizers in a timely manner according to the instructions given on the fertilizer itself. It is important to maintain the proportions of fertilizer, because too much of it will also not benefit the plant; simply put, it can burn.

Spathiphyllum itself is not capricious, but sometimes it does not want to grow and causes unnecessary concern to its owner.

Leaf wilting:

Most likely, the soil in the pot is dry and needs water;
heterogeneous soil, when replanting the old one is not removed, the flower is planted in new soil;
rotting of the root system after constant flooding of plants, this happens especially often in the winter months.

Spathiphyllum does not grow:

it is necessary to reduce the container until the roots fill the entire pot, the top of the flower will not grow;
lighting is not suitable.

The flower turns green:

After a short time, you can notice that the snow-white cover of the flower begins to turn green, and many wonder why? This just means that the spathiphyllum flower is beginning to fade, but even in this stage of flowering it is magnificent.

How to care for spathiphyllum at home - expert advice

Read about it here.

Spathiphyllum flower belongs to the Araceae family, but is related to other flowers such as alocasia and anthurium. Oval or pointed, glossy with a strongly protruding midrib, the leaves emerging directly from the soil are very beautiful and will look harmonious in a bedroom made in warm colors. The spadix is an inflorescence that grows on a long stalk, with a spathe at the base. A very beautiful flower emerges from the stems (white). It begins to bloom in the spring, usually within one or two weeks. Also, sometimes flowering repeats at the end of summer, sometimes in autumn and winter. Over time, the flower turns from snow-white to yellow and greenish. Spathiphyllum turns green - the flower fades, the spathe and spadix should be removed, cut off the peduncle.

The natural habitat of the flower is South and Central America, but grows very well at home.

Spathiphyllum how to care
The flower is very popular, spathiphyllum requires little care for the flower at home, besides the flower itself there are also very beautiful leaves. You should constantly monitor the humidity (water and spray), so when purchasing a flower, take these factors into account. The name comes from the Greek phylum - leaf, sparta bedspread.

Spathiphyllum care. The plant is shade-loving, try to choose a place without direct sunlight, it is very afraid of drafts. Also temperature restrictions, it is necessary that the room should not be lower than 18 °C.

It loves humidity very much, water the flower all year round, and especially during flowering, make sure that the top layer of soil dries out between waterings. In winter, you shouldn’t gloat about watering. Do not overdry the earthen ball, make sure that there is no stagnation of water. Settled water should be used for irrigation. If the leaves droop, this means that the flower lacks moisture. Spathiphyllum leaves turn black, which means you have flooded the flower with water. Spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow - this means that you are not giving the flower enough moisture. If you provide the flower with enough air, the flower will bloom in winter.

During periods of active growing season, Spartiphyllums must be fed with fertilizers (1.5 g per liter); fertilizers used for other plants can also be used. During feeding periods, plants are watered abundantly; if brown spots appear on the leaves, this is an excess nutrients. Spathiphyllum does not bloom, which means you have underfed or overfed the flower.

Spathiphyllum transplant
Most best period It's spring for replanting. This should be done extremely carefully, as the flower is very sensitive. The soil should be slightly acidic, it accepts ordinary humus well, add brick chips and charcoal to it. Leaf soil, wood peat and river sand. It is necessary to spill the soil with a solution of manganese. After transplanting, spray and water the flower.

Spathiphyllum female happiness. If you want to give a gift to your loved one, this will be the best gift from you. It should also be noted that there are several types of these flowers:

1. Spathiphyllum domino is an evergreen plant with shiny green leaves. It has a white, sometimes yellowish cob.
2. Spathiphyllum chopin is a low plant with leaves up to 30 cm long with small flowers, long-lasting flowering.
3. Spathiphyllum sensation - is office plant, tolerates artificial light well.
4. Spathiphyllum chopin grows up to 1 meter in height with large leaves.

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Spathiphyllum flowers - “female happiness”

Spathiphyllum is a perennial houseplant, a member of the araceae family. This flower with beautiful dark green leaves, which produces a gorgeous white inflorescence when blooming, will truly become your favorite.

Spathiphyllum flowers are quite unpretentious; the most important thing is to place them in the right place, avoiding direct sunlight. When exposed to the sun, burns will form on the leaves. A very shaded place for spathiphyllum will also be unacceptable; it needs fairly bright, diffused light.

The indoor plant requires fairly high air humidity. Therefore, frequent spraying, a shower from time to time, and a tray filled with wet sand will only benefit him. If there is insufficient humidity, the tips of the leaves of the spathiphyllum begin to dry out. During flowering, the plant should be sprayed with extreme caution, not allowing water to get on the blooming flower.

The indoor spathiphyllum flower (photo attached) requires very moderate watering. Both excessive drying of the soil in the pot and waterlogging should not be allowed; these actions have an extremely adverse effect on the development of the plant and can even lead to its death. In winter, water less frequently than in spring and summer. If watering is insufficient, this can be determined by the leaves of the plant: they have a drooping appearance.

Spathiphyllum flowers are usually replanted when the roots completely fill the entire volume of the pot. The plant is very sensitive to root damage, so it should be replanted with the utmost care. You should not plant the flower immediately in a much larger container, otherwise it will devote all its energy to developing the root system and simply stop blooming. Best time for transplantation - spring.

From the beginning of spring until the end of the growing season, spathiphyllum needs to be actively fed with mineral fertilizers without lime. If there is an excess of fertilizers, the plant begins to develop brown spots on the tips of its leaves.

Spathiphyllum flowers are most often propagated by dividing the bush, or by cuttings. But usually the plant produces additional bushes of 2-3 leaves, which are very good to replant in the spring. When propagated from cuttings, they are usually rooted using wet sand.

Difficulties in growing

Question: “Why does the flower have brown leaf edges?”
Answer: “With insufficient air humidity or insufficient watering, the tips of the leaves begin to dry out. Just increase watering and spray more often.”

Question: “Why do spathiphyllum have green flowers?”
Answer: “This is a completely normal phenomenon when the flowers of a plant begin to fade, they turn greenish, then dry out and fall off.”

Question: “Why doesn’t spathiphyllum bloom?”
Answer: “The main reason for non-flowering is the pot for the plant is too large. Spathiphyllum flowers bloom when the container is filled with roots; in other cases (if there is an excess of free space), all the power of the flower is directed to the development of the root system. Just transplant the plant into a smaller pot and create favorable conditions for it.”

Has Spathiphyllum stopped blooming? We organize proper care for the plant

Spathiphyllum is one of the favorite indoor plants, whose flowering is eagerly awaited. Suspicious housewives react especially sharply to the laziness of their ward. Lovers of superstitions call spathiphyllum « women's happiness» . It is believed that if a plant pleases with its flowers, then the woman in the house is the owner of that same happiness. Of course, all this is fiction. And many quite prosperous women often wonder: why does spathiphyllum not bloom?

Features of flowering

The spathiphyllum flower is an inflorescence in the form of a spadix, framed by one single petal, often white. This is the most beautiful option, as there are flowers with a greenish tint, or just green. Against the backdrop of very lush foliage, all this splendor can last for a month. At home, the favorite of many housewives blooms several times a year. The most intense flowering period is spring and summer. But why spathiphyllum does not bloom is worth understanding separately. Most likely, the care of the plant is not organized correctly.

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Possible reasons

low humidity;
drafts;
large pot;
waterlogging of the soil;
improper fertilizers;
low temperature;
improper lighting;
need for transplantation.

Let's consider each reason separately.

Low humidity

Photo 1. The tips of spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow and dry out

By the appearance of spathiphyllum, you can immediately determine that the plant lacks moisture. For some reason, the tips of the leaves often turn yellow and dry out (photo 1), and flowers appear very rarely. Caring for spathiphyllum at home involves frequent spraying of the leaves. Air humidity can be increased by placing a flower pot in a tray with wet pebbles. It is advisable to measure air humidity with a hygrometer from time to time.

The reason why a plant does not produce flowers may also be drafts.

Big pot

Photo 2. The roots of spathiphyllum completely entwined the ground

Transplantation should be done only when necessary. Almost all potted plants have this feature - a cramped pot provokes long and abundant flowering. The roots should completely entwine the lump of earth inside the pot, as in photo 2. Therefore, a correctly selected pot is another argument in favor of the fact that proper care should fully meet the needs of the plant. Then the leaves of the spathiphyllum will be bright green, and the flowers will often delight with their appearance.

Soil waterlogging

Spathiphyllum is a moisture-loving plant, but waterlogged soil is not the best way to make it bloom. In this case, the tips of the leaves turn black and then dry out. If this happens, then the damaged leaves need to be removed and the soil dried.

Wrong fertilizers

Home care also includes enriching the soil with various fertilizers. If the spathiphyllum has stopped blooming and the tips of the leaves are drying, improper feeding may be the reason. Excess fertilizer causes plant roots to burn. If you overfeed with nitrogen supplements, the foliage will grow, there will be a lot of greenery, but it will not please you with flowers. The best way to get rid of the problem is to transplant into new pot. And in the future you should make mineral supplements for flowering plants no more than once every two weeks.

Low temperature

Photo 3. Abundant flowering of spathiphyllum

Low temperatures combined with dry air or drafts cause wilting. The tips of the leaves turn yellow and dry out. At home, it is not at all difficult to adjust the temperature regime for the comfortable existence of your pet. The gift will be very abundant flowering, such as in photo 3.

Incorrect lighting

It is worth considering that spathiphyllum - light-loving plant, but it is better to keep it away from direct sunlight. From them, the tips of the leaves turn black and dry, and flowers rarely appear. For it you need to choose well-lit places, maybe slightly shaded, but without direct sunlight.

Need for transplant

Additional measures

Sometimes, in order for spathiphyllum to bloom, more stringent measures are required. For example, it is placed for a couple of weeks in a room with a low temperature, but not lower than +120. And then they put it in a well-lit place and feed it with mineral fertilizers. This shock therapy helps the plant bloom frequently and profusely.

Wilted leaves must be removed promptly. If the white cover of a flower withers and turns black, this means that it is simply fading. It's time to remove the peduncle. Such simple care will allow the plant to show off its green leaves and bloom on time. Sometimes the leaves of the plant need to be gently moved and lightly tugged.

Caring for plants is calming and brings a lot of positive emotions. And in gratitude for the comfortable conditions, they will bloom and delight with their green splendor.

Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?

Possible difficulties when growing spathiphyllum

Why do the tips of spathiphyllum leaves turn yellow or dry, or do they not bloom? There are different reasons why spathiphyllum does not bloom.

The reason may be that the pot is too spacious. Spathiphyllums bloom when the roots entwine the entire pot. The signal for replanting is the roots, which have filled the entire volume of the pot with the plant.

Also, the lack of flowering can be a consequence of too low a temperature, insufficient humidity, but most often - a combination of both. Perhaps the plant is not receiving enough nutrition. If all these problems are solved, the flower should bloom.

The plant lacks lighting; if there is too much shading, flowering becomes rare or stops altogether. On bright windows, spathiphyllum blooms more abundantly and longer, and is much larger in size, but it should be borne in mind that too bright light from the sun is harmful to it.

There is another possibility - the plant is old. Such spathiphyllums bloom with difficulty. In this case, you need to divide the bush into several parts when replanting.

To achieve abundant flowering, spathiphyllum can be kept for up to 2 weeks in a cool place at a temperature of +9+12°C, reducing watering. Then you need to expose it to bright light, add mineral and organic fertilizers, after a month the plant usually begins to bloom. As a rule, spathiphyllum does not have a pronounced dormant period, but if it is cool in winter, it is reasonable to reduce watering and spraying, and do not fertilize at all.

Lack or lack of fertilizing is also the reason for the lack of repeated flowering. Excess nitrogen leads to increased leaf growth and the plant blooms poorly. Therefore, a fertilizer with a reduced nitrogen content but a high potassium content is used. From spring to autumn (during the active growing season), spathiphyllum must be fed once every two weeks with low-concentration complete mineral fertilizer for flowering plants. The rest of the time once a month.

After flowering, the spathes of the flowers turn green, which means the flower has simply faded and the peduncle needs to be cut off. There is no need to completely prune the plant! Depending on the variety of spathiphyllum, the color of the flower cover can be from light green to cream.

The tips of spathiphyllum leaves dry out or turn yellow.

Spathiphyllum turns yellow or dries out. The reason is low air humidity. If the air at home is too dry, then the leaves turn yellow or dry out, starting from the tips. In apartment conditions this may be inevitable, even with frequent spraying. You can increase the air humidity by placing the pot on a tray with wet pebbles, covering the soil in the pot with wet moss, placing a container of water nearby, and of course, spraying more often.

As mentioned above, yellowing or drying of the leaves indicates improper watering of the plant - too dry soil or flooding. It is possible that the pot where it is located has become too small for him - a transplant is required. Often the leaves turn yellow due to excess sunlight or direct sunlight on the leaves.

Dry brownish-yellow spots appeared on the leaves , similar to burns, although direct sunlight does not fall on the plant. Possible cause: overflow. The spathiphyllum plant should be watered only when the top layer of soil dries out. The lump of earth should only dry out slightly, but not dry out, and the plant does not tolerate stagnation of water. It is advisable to spray the leaves frequently.

The leaves around the edges turn black and dry out , then they die completely, sometimes young leaves that have not yet untwisted dry out. The cause may be excessive waterlogging of the soil or dry air. There may also be a lack of minerals (nitrogen, phosphorus). Liquid wax is often used to make the leaves shine; it should be borne in mind that spathiphyllum is sensitive to clogging of the pores on the leaves, so wax should not be used!

Of the pests, spathiphyllum most often suffers from thrips, mealybugs, and spider mites. The appearance of brown spots on the leaves indicates an excess of nutrients.

Spathiphyllum - home care

Genus Spathiphyllum(lat. Spathiphyllum) is not as numerous as Anthuriums and has only about 40 species of evergreen rooted herbaceous plants belonging to the Araceae family (lat. Araceae). In the wild, spathiphyllums are found in the tropical forests of South America, Southeast Asia, the islands of Polynesia and the Philippines.

Morphology

Spathiphyllum is an evergreen, stemless, herbaceous plant with beautiful decorative leaves and a large number of inflorescences. These plants are mainly terrestrial, but epiphytes are also found. Spathiphyllum leaves are dark green in color, with a glossy surface, arched or lanceolate, 15 - 50 cm long, with clearly visible veins, on long stalks. Spathiphyllum has a single inflorescence, characteristic of the entire Araceae family, in the form of a small cream-colored cob, framed by a white or pink bract. The shape of the bedspread is similar to a small sail or flag, which is why the flower is popularly known as “banner leaf” and “white sail”.

By folk beliefs This flower helps unmarried girls find their “soul mate” and helps young wives quickly become happy mothers, which is why it is often called “women’s happiness.”

Spathiphyllum flowers are very persistent and the flowering period is quite long. As they fade, the spadix and spathe quickly acquire green tint. After complete flowering, the flower stalks along with the faded flowers must be cut off as close to the soil as possible, then new inflorescences will grow faster and the flower will retain its decorative effect for a long time. Spathiphyllum produces seeds extremely rarely, so it is propagated by the usual division of the bush.

These unpretentious, very spectacular plants with exotic long, narrow leaves and graceful, feminine inflorescences with an exquisite scent will enliven the interior of any home.

Types of spathiphyllum

IN indoor floriculture The most common types are:

Spathiphyllum Walis (Spathiphyllum wallisii) named after the German florist Gustav Wallis, is also widely known under the names “Peace lily” and “white sail”. It was discovered at the end of the 19th century in Colombia. The plant has small (20 - 25 cm) lanceolate wavy leaves collected in powerful rosettes. Like all Aroids, the flowers of Spathiphyllum Walis are collected in small cobs (3-4 cm), wrapped in a white bract. The spathe is narrow, white, and as it fades it changes color to bright green. The plant can reach a height of 20-30 cm.

Spathiphyllum profusely blooming(lat. Spathiphyllum floribundum) native to Panama and Venezuela, also called " snow flower"(Snowflower). The plant has a creeping, often underground stem, from which grow rosettes of lanceolate leaves 15–20 cm long and 6–8 cm wide with pointed tips. This variety is named profusely flowering due to its abundant and long flowering - one specimen can annually produce up to 20 arched peduncles up to 45 - 50 cm in height.

Florist breeders have developed many varieties of spathiphyllum, the most famous of which are the American Mauna Loa (Mauna Loa) with wide dark green leaves, an ear of fragrant cream-colored flowers and a snow-white, exquisitely curved bract 10-12.5 cm long and up to 6 cm wide. It can grow up to 40-50 cm in height. Its homeland is the tropical forests of Colombia and Venezuela.

Spathiphyllum cannofolia(lat. Spathiphyllum cannifolium) has large bright green oval leaves, very similar to canna leaves - hence its name. A white-green bract with pleasantly fragrant flowers collected in a yellowish-green spadix. Homeland - Thailand.

In addition to these, many more hybrid varieties have been bred; they are more hardy and can bloom all year round.

How to care for spathiphyllum

Location

Spathiphyllums prefer to grow in well-lit places, especially in winter. In summer, you need to avoid direct sunlight on the plants so as not to cause burns to the leaves. You should not move the flower from place to place unnecessarily; spathiphyllum does not like frequent movements.

Temperature

In summer, the most comfortable temperature for the plant will be in the range of 24 - 27°C. In winter, the optimal temperature is 16 - 17°C. At this temperature, the plant begins a period of winter dormancy, it rests and will bloom better in the summer. At temperatures below +15°C, the root ball may freeze and the plant will die. Also avoid sudden changes in temperature and cold drafts in the room where spathiphyllum grows.

Although spathiphyllum is considered a marsh plant, you should not over-water it; in summer the soil should always be moderately moist, but not flooded with water. Excessive watering can lead to root rot, blackening and death of leaves and flower stalks. In winter, the intensity of watering should be reduced, but the soil in the pot should not be allowed to dry out more than 1 cm in depth.

Air humidity

Spathiphyllum is a plant native to the tropics and therefore loves a humid atmosphere of at least 70%, so it is recommended to regularly spray the leaves with warm soft water from a spray bottle at least once or twice a day, and install a humidifier in the room where spathiphyllum grows. It is also recommended from time to time, but at least once a week, to wipe the leaves of the plant from dust with a damp cloth.

In order to prevent spathiphyllum leaves from becoming covered with yellow spots and losing their gloss, during the active growing season it is necessary to feed the plant with a solution of complex mineral fertilizers at least once every two weeks. During winter dormancy, the plant is fed less frequently, once a month is enough.

Young plants are replanted once a year, preferably in early spring, adults - as necessary, as the rhizome fills the volume of the pot, usually after two to three years. The substrate for replanting the plant is prepared from a mixture of turf soil, peat, humus, sand or perlite in a ratio of 2:1:1:1. It has been noticed that spathiphyllums bloom more readily in cramped flowerpots. To avoid possible waterlogging of the soil, take care of good drainage.

Reproduction

The simplest and most popular way to propagate spathiphyllum is to divide the bush in the spring when replanting. It is most convenient to use a jet running water wash the rhizome, carefully separate it and plant it in different pots. For planting, you can use the same substrate or simple peat; on the bottom of the pots you need to lay out a drainage layer of fragments of ceramics or expanded clay.

Pests

Spathiphyllums are usually well resistant to pests and diseases, but with improper care, excessive or insufficient watering, the plant can be affected by spider mites, scale insects or root rot. A sign of plant damage is curling and drying of the leaves, the appearance of brown spots on the glossy surface, and thin whitish cobwebs. To control pests, you need to spray the plant with an insecticide solution according to the instructions for the product. You can use tobacco infusion with soap; to do this, you need to moisten a rag in the soap-tobacco infusion and thoroughly wipe the leaves and flower stalks.

If you love the plant and care for it properly, then spathiphyllum will gladly answer you with wonderful flowers and a delicate aroma.

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A resident of the tropical zone, spathiphyllum belongs to the aroid family and often decorates both residential and office rooms. The delicacy of its flowers contrasts with the dark green shiny leaves.

There is a belief that it brings happiness to the house - especially female happiness. It is easy to care for and does not require maintenance conditions. During the flowering period, it pleases the eye with flowers reminiscent of a snow-white sail.

General description of the plant

Spathiphyllum has no stem. The leaves growing from the rhizome have an elongated lanceolate shape. The peduncle also rises from the root. At its end a flower is formed, shaped like a small cob. The main beauty of the flower lies in the presence of a white bract, as if covering the flower itself with a blanket.

The duration of flowering depends on the variety. In general, caring for spathiphyllum at home is not difficult and consists of observing light, temperature and watering conditions.

Types of spathiphyllum

There are many species bred by breeders. They differ in size, size of leaves and duration of flowering.

This flower is most suitable for apartments, as it is quite compact. Plant height is up to 60 cm with lance-shaped leaves 15-20 cm. The peduncle is tall (up to 30 cm), also rising from the root. The spathe, white at the beginning of flowering, gradually acquires a greenish tint.

This variety is distinguished by its large size and oval leaves of a bright green color. Quite large yellow-green flowers are shrouded in a blanket of the same shade. Rarely found in culture, bred as a collector's item.

Reminiscent of Spathiphyllum Wallis, only with a smaller peduncle.

It is distinguished by larger leaves and a flowering period that can last continuously.

Spathiphyllum care

No matter how unpretentious this flower is, without care it can die. You need to know simple rules to keep him in good health.

Location and lighting

One of the advantages of this home plant is that it grows and blooms safely even in the shade. He doesn’t have to live on a windowsill to get enough light for this. If the light is too bright, the spathiphyllum castings dry out.

They can be used to decorate northern windows, or even be placed on a flower shelf or flower stand. In summer it should be protected from bright sun.

Temperature

The plant does not need a special regime in terms of heat or cold. It feels great and blooms at temperatures from 18 to 25 degrees, and can withstand even high temperatures up to +30.

Important! In winter it can withstand up to +13 (for a short time), but during this time you need to stop watering.

Air humidity

50% air humidity is quite enough for spathiphyllum. In winter, it benefits from dry air rather than humid air. At the same time, no negative reaction to changes in air humidity was observed. Loves being sprayed with warm water.

Watering

Abundant watering is indicated for spathiphyllum only when it is actively growing and blooming. The water for it should be well settled, ideally rainwater. When watering, it is better to avoid getting water on the inflorescences. If there is water left in the pan after watering, it must be drained. In winter, the frequency of watering decreases.

Important! The signal for the next watering will be slightly drooping leaves of the plant.

The soil

The soil for the flower should be loose, light and well-drained. Typically, leaf and turf soil, peat and sand are used in a ratio of 2:2:2:1. To increase the breathability of the soil, chopped tree bark can be added to it.

Top dressing

To feed spathiphyllum you need to use both mineral and organic fertilizers. In spring and summer, feed once every three weeks, in autumn - once a month, in winter, feeding stops. If the plant is going to bloom in winter, then it needs to be renewed.

Mineral fertilizers are dissolved in water for irrigation in an amount of 1.5 g per 1 liter. During the flowering period, they should be alternated with organic fertilizer.

Important! Before and after applying fertilizer, it is necessary to water the plant.

Trimming

From a blooming spathiphyllum, you need to cut off faded flower stalks in a timely manner, this will stimulate the appearance of new ones.

You should also trim off old, dry or diseased leaves. If the tips of the leaves of a flower dry out, you just need to trim lightly to the green part of the leaf.

Spathiphyllum flowering

Some varieties can bloom all year round if they are fed and dry flower stalks are removed in a timely manner. The lifespan of 1 flower is about 10 days, then the cover turns green and loses its decorative effect.

Transfer

The plant needs replanting when the pot becomes too big for it. To do this, you need to inspect it and, if the roots come out of drainage hole, transplant the flower into a large container. The new pot should not be too spacious. If the roots are at ease, the spathiphyllum will not bloom until the roots grow to cover the entire pot.

Transplantation is usually done in the spring. Drainage and fresh substrate are poured into the pot. The roots must be handled very carefully; if they are damaged, the flower will hurt for a long time.

After transplantation, the plant can be sprayed with water and epin.

Important! Young plants require annual replanting.

Reproduction

Spathiphyllum can be propagated in several ways:

Dividing the bush.
Children (or propagation by cuttings).
Seeds.

Dividing the bush

Dividing the bush is the simplest propagation method. In spring, the flower is removed from the pot and the bush is carefully divided, most often with a sharp knife. The sections must be sprinkled with wood ash (do not use Activated carbon!). Then the separated parts are planted in fresh substrate, usual for this plant.

Cuttings

In the spring, when transplanting a bush onto the rhizome, you can see young shoots - leaf rosettes with root rudiments. They must be separated from the mother plant with great care. Separated children should be planted in damp sand or perlite. You can use transparent dishes as a greenhouse.

The seedlings need to be ventilated several times a day. When roots appear, young plants can be transplanted into the substrate.

Propagation by seeds

It's not very effective method and is rarely used at home. The difficulty is this:

cross-pollination is necessary to obtain seeds;
the seeds need to be planted immediately after collection; they do not last at all, but begin to deteriorate;
seeds have very low germination;
The difficulty of caring for crops is the simultaneous creation of high humidity and frequent ventilation.

So flower growers prefer vegetative propagation.

Diseases and pests

Diseases are provoked by violation of the rules of care, in particular the regime of watering and lighting.

Pests that can damage it are aphids, spider mites, mealybug and scale insects.

The spider mite leaves traces in the form of a sticky thin web; it sucks the juices from the plant, and the leaves dry out as a result.

Aphids settle on the reverse side of the leaf and also dehydrate it.

Scale insects leave brown marks on the leaves.

Common pest control methods include wiping the leaves with a damp sponge to remove insects. Then you need to treat with insecticides. The main thing is to remove the diseased plant from healthy flowers in time to avoid infection.

FAQ

Why do spathiphyllum leaves dry out?

Drying of leaves may be due to lack of moisture or too much bright light falling on the plant.

Why do black and brown spots appear on the leaves and dry out?

Black spots on the leaves indicate overwatering of the plant, brown spots indicate excess feeding.

Why are there so many leaves but no flowers?

This means that the plant is overfed with nitrogen, which promotes the growth of green mass and slows down flowering.

Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?

If there are no violations in care, the reason may be that the pot is too spacious for the root system.

A resident of the tropical zone, spathiphyllum belongs to the aroid family and often decorates both residential and office spaces. The delicacy of its flowers contrasts with the dark green shiny leaves.

General description of the plant

The duration of flowering depends on the variety. In general, caring for spathiphyllum at home is not difficult and consists of observing light, temperature and watering conditions.

Types of spathiphyllum

There are many species bred by breeders. They differ in size, size of leaves and duration of flowering.

Reminiscent of Spathiphyllum Wallis, only with a smaller peduncle.

It is distinguished by larger leaves and a flowering period that can last continuously.

Spathiphyllum care

No matter how unpretentious this flower is, without care it can die. You need to know simple rules to keep him in good health.

Location and lighting

They can be used to decorate northern windows, or even be placed on a flower shelf or flower stand. In summer it should be protected from bright sun.

Temperature

The plant does not need a special regime in terms of heat or cold. It feels great and blooms at temperatures from 18 to 25 degrees, and can withstand even high temperatures up to +30.

Air humidity

Watering

The soil

Top dressing

Mineral fertilizers are dissolved in water for irrigation in an amount of 1.5 g per 1 liter. During the flowering period, they should be alternated with organic fertilizer.

Trimming

From a blooming spathiphyllum, you need to cut off faded flower stalks in a timely manner, this will stimulate the appearance of new ones.

You should also trim off old, dry or diseased leaves. If the tips of the leaves of a flower dry out, you just need to trim lightly to the green part of the leaf.

Spathiphyllum flowering

Transfer

The plant needs replanting when the pot becomes too big for it. To do this, you need to inspect it and, if the roots come out of the drainage hole, transplant the flower into a large container. The new pot should not be too spacious. If the roots are at ease, the spathiphyllum will not bloom until the roots grow to cover the entire pot.

After transplantation, the plant can be sprayed with water and epin.

Reproduction

Spathiphyllum can be propagated in several ways:

Dividing the bush.
Children (or propagation by cuttings).
Seeds.

Dividing the bush

Dividing the bush is the simplest propagation method. In spring, the flower is removed from the pot and the bush is carefully divided, most often with a sharp knife. The sections must be sprinkled with wood ash (do not use activated carbon!). Then the separated parts are planted in fresh substrate, usual for this plant.

Cuttings

The seedlings need to be ventilated several times a day. When roots appear, young plants can be transplanted into the substrate.

Propagation by seeds

This is not a very effective method and is rarely used at home. The difficulty is this:

cross-pollination is necessary to obtain seeds;
the seeds need to be planted immediately after collection; they do not last at all, but begin to deteriorate;
seeds have very low germination;
The difficulty of caring for crops is the simultaneous creation of high humidity and frequent ventilation.

So flower growers prefer vegetative propagation.

Diseases and pests

Diseases are provoked by violation of the rules of care, in particular the regime of watering and lighting.

Pests that can damage it are aphids, spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects.

The spider mite leaves traces in the form of a sticky thin web; it sucks the juices from the plant, and the leaves dry out as a result.

Aphids settle on the reverse side of the leaf and also dehydrate it.

Scale insects leave brown marks on the leaves.

FAQ

Why do spathiphyllum leaves dry out?

Drying of the leaves may be due to a lack of moisture or too much light shining on the plant.

Why do black and brown spots appear on the leaves and dry out?

Black spots on the leaves indicate overwatering of the plant, brown spots indicate excess feeding.

Why are there so many leaves but no flowers?

This means that the plant is overfed with nitrogen, which promotes the growth of green mass and slows down flowering.

Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?

If there are no violations in care, the reason may be that the pot is too spacious for the root system.

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Thanks to these tips, my spathiphyllum makes me happy with its flowers!

We create heavenly conditions at home

Temperature - high

Air humidity - high

Water for spraying must be room temperature, and make sure that it only gets on the leaves. It is ideal if you have a humidifier at home.

Watering - frequent

Lighting - bright

How to get Spathiphyllum to bloom

The flowers have a delicate white-green color and an elongated spindle-shaped shape.

The pot is too spacious. Spathiphyllum, as a rule, begins to throw out flower stalks after the roots have entwined the entire pot. So be patient.
The plant is old. With age, the flower reduces the production of peduncles, or even stops flowering altogether. In this case, the bush should be divided into several parts and each one should be transplanted into separate pots.
Lack or excess of minerals. Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content provoke increased leaf growth, thereby slowing down flowering. And here potash fertilizers stimulate the formation of flowers. Choosing a comprehensive mineral fertilizer, pay attention to the percentage of microelements: potassium should be 2 times more than nitrogen.

Stress is good for flowering

You can achieve abundant flowering in the following way: keep the flower in a room with a temperature of about +12°C for 10 days. Water minimally during this time. Then place Spathiphyllum in a well-lit place and apply fertilizer. A month later the plant blooms. Tested more than once!

If the plant dies: diseases and pests

A plant doesn't just happen; everything happens for a reason. Carefully consider your pet and choose your option:

The flower is propagated in the spring by dividing the bush. Choose pots in such a way that there is a gap of no more than 2 cm between the root system and the walls of the pot (otherwise you will wait a long time for flowering). If you just want to replant the flower without dividing the root system, then take the diameter of the pot 3-4 cm larger than the previous one, so how the rhizomes of an adult plant grow faster. How do you know when it’s time to transplant into a larger pot? If lower leaves dry out, and the roots stick out on the surface close to the walls of the pot, which means it’s time. Soil is an important detail

We prepare the soil from sand, peat, leaf and turf soil in a ratio of 1:1:1:2, with the addition of charcoal.

If you buy ready-made soil in flower shop, the package should say “slightly acidic.” A universal soil for the aroid family is suitable.

Water the flower with water and carefully remove the lump of earth along with the roots from the old pot.
Use your fingers to shake the soil from the roots
Cut off dried leaves and flower stalks - this is done so that the plant “rests” and does not waste energy on them.
Place a thin layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, and 3-4 centimeters of soil on top.
Place the flower with straightened rhizomes and cover it with soil a couple of centimeters above the roots, tamping it down slightly.
Water the plant thoroughly to compact the soil.
Spray the leaves with water from a spray bottle. Do this daily for 2 weeks.
You can always find more useful articles, interesting videos and tests on our website.

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Method number 1: limit light and water

The pot must be removed from the windowsill to a darker place, for example, deep into the room, where there is lighting, but it is weak and diffuse. For two to three weeks, spathiphyllum should be planted on “ water diet“, that is, water only after the soil has dried well and the flower itself has dropped its leaves a little.

After three weeks of such fasting, the spathiphyllum should be returned to its place, under good lighting, and regular watering should be gradually resumed. In addition, the bush must be actively fed, alternating:

organics;
complex mineral fertilizers.

In gratitude for the rich nutrition, watering and lighting, after a long stay “in captivity”, in about a month the spathiphyllum should release a peduncle.

Method 2: limit heat and water

In autumn, the pot with female happiness should be taken out to a cool room with an air temperature of about 10 degrees and the amount of watering should also be reduced.

The room must be dry, since with increased humidity the flower will begin to develop diseases.

After keeping the spathiphyllum in the “isolator” for some time, then the previous care should be resumed.

Both methods involve artificially putting the plant into a stressful state. As a result, the natural instinct to reproduce before death is triggered, in this case through flowering, because ultimately the seeds ripen in the cob if the peduncle is not cut off.

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Why doesn't it bloom

Ideally, spathiphyllum always attracts attention with its appearance. Not typical large leaves, sticking out thickly from the pot - it looks like a mini-garden on the windowsill. Its flowers are white and consist of one perianth and a large pith. The quantity depends on the size of the plant, its breed, as well as on some other nuances. The plant also focuses on the season, likes to relax, and cannot be called ever-blooming. But when the number of flowers on the spathiphyllum has been zero for a long time, the season most likely has nothing to do with it.

Natural causes

In general, this plant benefits from shaking. You can, for example, change the place for a while and move the flower to a cooler room.

And after a week, return it to a sunny windowsill (preferably an eastern window) and add fertilizing. This little stress will cause the spathiphyllum to bloom. The main thing is not to overdo it.

Other natural causes include problems with roots. If long time the flower was in too dry or waterlogged soil, its roots could weaken. In this case, a radical change of soil and pot will also help, observing the transplant conditions.

Incorrect conditions of detention

A few mistakes - due to inattention or ignorance - will ruin your efforts to decorate your house with blooming spathiphyllum.

Very spacious pot. The peculiarity of the plant itself is that it entwines the entire earthen ball with roots. This is its main task, and only by completing it will it bloom. Therefore, when planning a transplant, take a new pot with a diameter 3 cm larger than the previous one. And don't expect changes immediately after the transplant. Give spathiphyllum time to settle into its new home.
The air is too dry. Often periods of no flowering coincide with the operation of central heating. The batteries dry out the air, and the plant devotes all its strength to surviving in unpleasant conditions. To keep the humidity at the proper level, you need to at least spray the leaves.

The good news is that flowering will be almost unaffected by illumination. Spathiphyllum is quite tolerant of this parameter. Of course, you should not place the flower in direct sunlight or completely deprive it of light, but this general rule for all indoor flowers.

Basic mistakes when caring

At home, spathiphyllum is ready to endure many inconveniences. You may accidentally forget to water it, place it in a draft or over a radiator. He will not die, although he will lose his former luxury. As soon as he finds himself in comfortable conditions, he will gradually regain his strength. But any of the inconveniences will definitely affect flowering. Therefore, if you want the spathiphyllum to not only produce leaves, but also delight you with white arrows of flowers, pay attention to the conditions in which it lives.

The plant also has one interesting feature- green flowers. In fact, its buds are always green at first, and at first it is not immediately possible to determine whether the spathiphyllum has released another leaf, or whether it is a long-awaited flower. After some time, the peduncle grows, the bud becomes larger and becomes white. What's wrong with the plant if the flower doesn't turn white? Or the white perianth suddenly turned green - is this normal or not for spathiphyllum?

If the flower does not turn white, the plant does not have enough strength for it. During the flowering period, you need to be more attentive to watering, spray the leaves (without getting them on the buds, they can turn yellow from this!), Do not place them in deep shade or in direct sun.

If White flower Spathiphyllum has turned green, which means it is fading. As soon as it loses its luxurious appearance, cut off the peduncle so that the plant does not waste extra energy on it.

Spathiphyllum does not bloom - what to do?

Experiment! Try to approach the problem from different angles.

Assess the position of the flower, its age, size, determine the breed (and spathiphyllum has many of them! And some can produce several buds at once, while others can produce no more than one). Check if the flower is sick or if it is being tormented by pests.
Think: is it time to replant? Mature plant needs to change the soil every two years. If it’s time, replant and care for the plant without waiting for buds. Let him get used to it.
If the transplant was not so long ago, feed the plant with a slightly acidic fertilizer. Preferably - special for spathiphyllums. Fortunately, it’s easy to find this now.
Stimulate flowering with a little stress. And plant the old plant into smaller bushes.

Proper care of spathiphyllum

Without the right attitude towards the plant, flowers in its lush foliage may never come. Juicy green leaves at home are only half the success. It is the white flowers that show that the plant is healthy and happy.

A few points of success:

Lighting ranges from shaded to fairly sunny, preferably moderate.
Humidity is high.
The soil is slightly acidic. Need feeding. Regularity and volumes - according to the label on the selected fertilizer.
Water as it dries with settled or filtered water. Do not allow water to stagnate in the saucer under the pot.
The pot is quite cramped; spathiphyllum does not need a wide housing.
No drafts or cold.

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Where and in what does the flower of female happiness grow?

Some novice flower growers think that if a flower is blooming, then it must be placed on a sunny windowsill, and in order for it to grow well, it must be transplanted into a larger pot. These are two big mistakes that can lead not only to a lack of flowering, but even to the death of the plant.

What to do to make spathiphyllum bloom:

Place the flower on a well-lit windowsill without direct lines sun rays. Women's happiness will bloom well on eastern windowsills. Direct sunlight and insufficient lighting are the reasons for the lack of flowering.
Determine the place of the flower away from drafts. The delicate plant does not like cold temperatures and drafts, so if the spathiphyllum is on a windowsill, it is better not to open the vents and windows during the cold season. Cold air will lead to cooling of the roots, plant disease and as a result, women's happiness will stop blooming.
After the purchase transplant into a not very large pot. Every gardener should know that even if in the future the purchased plant should turn into a large tree or bush, it cannot be replanted immediately into a large pot. The newly purchased flower is transplanted into a new pot 2-3 cm larger than the old one. In containers that are too spacious, female happiness will not bloom until its roots fill the entire volume of the pot.
For replanting, use soil suitable for spathiphyllum. The good development and flowering of female happiness is facilitated by a slightly acidic nutrient soil mixture and good drainage at the bottom of the pot. Soil for spathiphyllum can be purchased at a specialized store or prepared independently by mixing two parts wood ash and one part each of peat, leaf soil and humus.

Spathiphyllum has stopped blooming - we are looking for mistakes in care

Lack of flowering, dry leaf tips, yellow foliage - all this indicates that mistakes were made when caring for the flower.

What to do if women's happiness does not bloom? Please note the following points:

Spathiphyllum should be watered regularly and abundantly. However, the plant does not tolerate stagnation of water in the soil, since its roots may begin to rot due to excess moisture. Water the flower after the top layer of soil has dried so that the entire lump of soil is saturated with water. The water from the pan needs to be drained.
If the earthen ball in the pot dries out regularly, the spathiphyllum will not bloom. To form buds, the plant needs a sufficient amount of moisture. Withered leaves will tell you about dry soil. Place the flower pot in a bowl of water for half an hour and do not dry out the soil again.
To water women's happiness, use only settled water at room temperature. Cold water and impurities in it are the reasons for the lack of flowers.
During the growing season, that is, from spring to autumn, spathiphyllum should be fed. To do this, you can use special complex fertilizers containing all the elements necessary for the flowering of female happiness. A lack of nutrients in the soil may be the reason why spathiphyllum has stopped blooming.
Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom? A woman’s happiness can produce only leaves if they are mainly used to feed them. nitrogen fertilizers and organic matter, which contains a lot of nitrogen. For flowering, the plant needs phosphorus and potassium, and nitrogen affects the growth of foliage. Therefore, in order for your spathiphyllum to bloom, do not forget to feed it with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. But remember that you should use fertilizers strictly according to the instructions, since a large amount of fertilizers in the soil can poison the flower.
Any plant “grows out” over time and needs to be renewed. Therefore, old overgrown spathiphyllum bushes must be divided into several bushes and planted in different pots.

Spathiphyllum pests

Another reason why your favorite flower of female happiness does not bloom is pests. Spider mites or aphids that have settled on the leaves feed on the sap of the plant, which is why the flower does not have enough strength to form buds. As a result of the activity of pests, the leaves begin to turn yellow, and the plant may even die. Therefore, you need to periodically inspect the leaves and, if harmful insects are detected, use folk remedies or insecticidal preparations to destroy them.

If you do everything right, but in the spring and summer women’s happiness does not bloom, you can create special conditions for it. To do this, you need to put the flower pot in a cool place and reduce watering the plant. After a few weeks, the plant is placed back on the window, well watered and fed.

After such a “rest”, buds should appear on the spathiphyllum after some time.

Now you know the main reasons for the lack of flowering of female happiness and what to do to make spathiphyllum bloom. Proper care and suitable for indoor plant growing conditions will guarantee abundant and long flowering of spathiphyllum.

oazisvdome.ru

origin of name

The name of the plant comes from a combination of two Greek words and is literally translated into Russian as "leaf with cover". The flower itself has quite unusual look. It is a yellow flower, abundantly covered with stamens, similar to a small ear of corn, which is covered on one side with a large leaf resembling a blanket. This unusual appearance gave rise to the popular name - White Sail.

Spathiphyllum flowers are not only white. They can be red and even have crimson or purple shade. The flowers are quite large. When spathiphyllum blooms, as a rule, 3-5 flowers with hard, smooth leaves appear. Sometimes the leaves of the flower have white veins on their surface.

This flower also has another colloquial name - "woman's happiness". The flower received this name due to the belief that if it is placed in the house of an unmarried lady, she will very quickly find her soul mate and be happy in marriage.

They also say that such a flower does not tolerate scandals in the house. Its leaves become dull and lifeless, covered with spots, the plant withers and quickly dies.

Popularity of spathiphyllum

The birthplace of this flower is Central and South America. In nature different types spathiphyllum are found in damp and swampy forests, growing along rivers or streams.

Spathiphyllum has adapted well to life in a city apartment and is grown as a houseplant. It is very thermophilic and grows and develops well at temperatures above 18 °C.

At home, spathiphyllum is grown for its elegant white flowers. Its flowering time is from March to September. Especially when favorable conditions and timely care, spathiphyllum can delight the eye with its unusual colors a little longer.

Why does women's happiness not bloom?

It happens that a flower grows profusely, its leaves look healthy, but flowering never occurs. Any plant needs proper and timely care, a certain temperature at which it feels great and pleases the owner’s eye with its healthy appearance, bright leaves and abundant flowering. If this does not happen, it is obvious that something is being done wrong. Flowers appear when they are given attention and care.

To answer the question why a plant does not bloom, you need to analyze what mistakes might have been made in care, and whether it grows under the right conditions. There is no special secret here. Maybe something needs to be changed and fixed.

Errors in care are not easy to identify. Few people do them purposefully. Usually it seems that everything is being done correctly, but the flower stubbornly refuses to bloom.

How to make spathiphyllum bloom

The task of any gardener is grow healthy beautiful flowers, help ensure that all plant care needs are met. Different houseplants have completely different needs and the conditions under which they feel best. Therefore, before purchasing one or another indoor flower, you need to read information about it and study the methods of care and the temperature regime it requires.

Spathiphyllum requires care, attention and consideration of the following nuances when caring for it:

Lighting and amount of daylight. Spathiphyllum is not very picky about such parameters. It doesn't need a lot of lighting. Lack of sunlight can be ignored special attention. The plant thrives in shade or partial shade. But it’s not worth putting it specifically in a dark room. There is no need to expose the flower to abundant sunlight - it will react negatively.
Temperature required for growth and development. Spathiphyllum is not particularly picky about temperature. Moderate room temperature is suitable for him, the main thing is that it does not fall below 18 degrees.
Humidity. This parameter is considered the main one for the flower. In the summer heat, spathiphyllum should be sprayed generously, at least two or three times during the day. You can lower the flower pot into a container with moistened sea pebbles.
Watering. The flower requires abundant but careful watering. In this case, it is necessary to spill the soil very well and drain the water from the pan. The water required for watering spathiphyllum should not be very cold. The flower will feel very good if it is watered with water at room temperature.
The soil. For planting spathiphyllum, light, nutritious, slightly acidic soil. It is best to purchase soil specialized for this plant, but ordinary soil for indoor flowers will also work. You just need to make sure that there is no large quantity peat Such soil is not suitable for planting spathiphyllum. It will dry out very quickly, damaging the roots of the plant, which may become diseased.
Drafts. The plant does not tolerate drafts. To prevent it from getting sick, it must be protected in every possible way from hypothermia. One of the signs that a plant is in a draft is the blackening of its leaves and stems.
Feeding. Like many other indoor flowers, spathiphyllum needs feeding. They are especially important for maintaining flowering. Spathiphyllum is fed once every two weeks throughout the warm season (from spring to autumn). With the onset of winter cold, the frequency of fertilizing is reduced to once a month.

The flower accepts organic fertilizers well, but you can feed it with special complex fertilizers for flowering indoor plants that are sold in flower shops or markets.

If all these rules are followed, the flower will certainly delight its owners with abundant blooms. But sometimes it seems that everything was done correctly, but the plant still does not bloom. The reason lies in unnoticed errors in caring for the flower.

The main signs of errors in care

There are clear signs of mistakes in flower care when it is obvious that something needs to be done differently:

The leaves of the flower remain green and smooth, but their tips turn black and crumble, although the plant itself does not look sick. Possible causes may be too dry air, untimely watering, or drafts.
The leaves dry out and curl at the ends. This happens in case of hypothermia, when the plant has been exposed to drafts for a long time.
The plant develops wilted, drooping leaves. This is a sign that the soil is excessively dry.
The edges of the leaves turn yellow. This means that watering was done with too hard water.
The leaves turn yellow and become pale, dry and limp. This happens when the plant was in direct sunlight.
Dry, pale yellow spots appear on the surface of the leaves. This is a sign that the plant has received sunburn.
The leaves turn yellow and remain soft. This happens when the plant has been watered too much and excess moisture has stagnated at the roots. Excessive amount of liquid applied to the flower more harm than no watering. Flooded roots may begin to rot, and the spathiphyllum will die completely.

Hidden reasons for the lack of flower stalks

The plant may stop blooming various reasons and the most common of them can be:

Too hard water with harmful impurities does not promote abundant flowering. Water for irrigation must be settled. Do not water the plant too much cold water. It should be at room temperature.

Spathiphyllum should be watered if the soil has dried a few centimeters on the surface. At the same time, water abundantly so that the water completely saturates the earthen ball. Watering a little at a time, just wetting the top layer of soil, is not enough. This can cause the soil to become sour and the roots to begin to hurt. Insufficient watering can also cause water starvation in a houseplant, especially if it is carried out systematically in this way.

Presence of wilted flowers. After the plant has flowered, the wilted parts must be removed. Such actions stimulate the appearance of new flowers and prolong their flowering.

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Spathiphyllum care at home

They once gave me a beautiful indoor flower, Spathiphyllum, or simply “women’s happiness.” This is a beauty with large white flowers. But after a month, the tips of its leaves turned black and dried out, and the flowers withered.

We create heavenly conditions at home

This indoor flower came to us from tropical rainforests, which means that the conditions for its maintenance should be as close as possible to natural ones. How to do it?

Temperature - high

The optimal room temperature should be between +20°C and +25°C. In winter, a slight drop in temperature is allowed, but a long stay in a room where it is below 16°C leads to the death of the flower.

Air humidity - high

Dry air has the most detrimental effect on the plant. Therefore, it needs spraying, especially on hot summer days and in heating season when radiators lead to dry air in the room.

Water for spraying must be at room temperature, and make sure that it only gets on the leaves. It is ideal if you have a humidifier at home.

Watering - frequent

The flower needs regular watering. Drying out the soil has a detrimental effect on the root system of Spathiphyllum and leads to yellowing and death of the leaves.

Water for irrigation must first be left for 12 hours and then softened. The easiest way to use citric acid for these purposes: a few crystals are enough for 1 liter of water.

It is advisable to place the flower pot in a tray with pebbles, and make sure that the pebbles are constantly wet. This will create the necessary microclimate around the flower.

Lighting - bright

Spathiphyllum requires good lighting, but it should be shaded from direct sunlight. The flower feels best on windowsills with east and west orientation, but the plant will not bloom on a north window.

How to get Spathiphyllum to bloom

My friends, with whom I shared the bushes of the plant, complain that their favorites do not bloom, unlike mine. The reasons why “female happiness” does not bloom may be the following:

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

The pot is too spacious. Spathiphyllum, as a rule, begins to throw out flower stalks after the roots have entwined the entire pot. So be patient.

The plant is old. With age, the flower reduces the production of peduncles, or even stops flowering altogether. In this case, the bush should be divided into several parts and each one should be transplanted into separate pots.

Lack or excess of minerals. Fertilizers with a high nitrogen content provoke increased leaf growth, thereby slowing down flowering. But potassium fertilizers stimulate the formation of flowers. When choosing a complex mineral fertilizer, pay attention to the percentage of microelements: potassium should be 2 times more than nitrogen.

Stress is good for flowering

If the plant dies: diseases and pests

A plant doesn't just happen; everything happens for a reason. Carefully examine your pet and choose your option:

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

2. The leaves have turned yellow. Usually this indicates insufficient watering, or vice versa, excessive watering.

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

3. The leaves have turned black. May be caused by a lack of minerals, excess moisture or dry air.

4. The flowers have turned yellow. This happens if water gets on them during spraying.

5. Drooping leaves. Common causes are dry soil or waterlogging resulting from poor drainage or overwatering.

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

6. Leaves without gloss. You don't spray them enough.

In addition to diseases associated with improper care, Spathiphyllum can be attacked by the following pests:

Mealybug. Very small insects covered with whitish fluff. They gather in colonies on leaves and, if severely infested, lead to wilting, yellowing and falling leaves. If you catch the initial moment of damage, then insects can be easily removed with a damp swab, but in case of severe damage you will have to spray the plant systemic insecticide.

Spider mite. Arthropod is a small sucking insect located on the underside of a leaf. The affected leaf becomes covered with yellowish spots and dies. Daily spraying prevents the appearance of spider mites, but if they have already begun to infect the plant, then treatment with a systemic insecticide is indispensable.

Aphid. The small insect may be green, black, gray or Orange color. Aphids feed on plant sap, causing the leaves to curl and dry out. The affected flower must be washed with soapy water, and in case of significant damage, treated with an insecticide.

Principles of transplantation and propagation

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

If you just want to replant a flower without dividing the root system, then take the diameter of the pot 3-4 cm larger than the previous one, since the rhizomes of an adult plant grow faster.

How do you know when it's time to transplant into a larger pot? If the lower leaves dry out and the roots stick out on the surface close to the walls of the pot, then it’s time.

Soil is an important detail

We prepare the soil from sand, peat, leaf and turf soil in a ratio of 1:1:1:2, with the addition of charcoal.

If you buy ready-made soil at a flower shop, the packaging should say “slightly acidic.” A universal soil for the aroid family is suitable.

Step-by-step steps for transplantation

1. Water the flower with water and carefully remove the clod of earth along with the roots from the old pot.

2. Using your fingers, shake the soil from the roots.

3. Cut off dried leaves and flower stalks - this is done so that the plant “rests” and does not waste energy on them.

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

4. Place a thin layer of expanded clay on the bottom of the pot, and 3-4 centimeters of soil on top.

5. Place the flower with straightened rhizomes and fill it with soil a couple of centimeters above the roots, lightly compacting it.

6. Water the plant generously to compact the soil.

7. Spray the leaves with water from a spray bottle. Do this daily for 2 weeks.

How to make Spathiphyllum bloom? "Women's happiness" on your windowsill

That's all. Spathiphyllum will definitely respond to proper care and timely replanting with the glossy beauty of its leaves and lush flowering.

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Spathiphyllum and its varieties

This flower is considered evergreens and belongs to the Araceae family. Exists almost 45 species of spathiphyllum. Some species can grow small, while others reach large sizes. Those species that most often grow at home grow to a maximum height of 40 cm.

The flower has a medium-sized stem on which there are smooth, round, bright green leaves. The plant's flowers appear as white and cream-colored spadixes surrounded by a white or greenish petal. This single petal on a thin stem looks very delicate. Its appearance is very feminine, which is why it received the name spathiphyllum, which translated from Greek means “bedspread” and “leaf”. If you look closely at the inflorescence, it really resembles an elegant white blanket.

The most popular for growing at home There are several types considered:

charming;
profusely flowering;
spoon-shaped;
cannofolia.

The flower is easy to care for and blooms only twice a year. This usually happens in spring and autumn. In order for it to develop well, it must be placed in a small pot. It needs to be replanted when the roots in the old container become crowded.

Why doesn't spathiphyllum bloom?

The duration of flowering and the abundance of inflorescences will depend on proper care of spathiphyllum. Flowering period for this plant starts in mid-spring and continues until late autumn. With the beginning of the winter season, the flower begins a period of rest and dormancy.

The flower loves warmth, so it is advisable to create comfortable conditions for it to develop well with optimal temperature 22-23 o C. If the room temperature is below +18 o C, the spathiphyllum will suffer and grow poorly, the leaves will begin to turn yellow. When a flower regularly throws out flowers, a caring housewife has nothing to worry about. But what to do when the plant only throws out leaves and does not bloom, and how to make spathiphyllum bloom?

If a plant does not produce buds for a long time, then there are reasons for this. May affect flowering the following main factors:

The flower does not like spacious pots; its roots must entwine it closely and if this does not happen, the buds will not appear.
You cannot place the pot in direct sunlight, but you need to choose a place with good lighting.
The plant is afraid of drafts and air conditioning, for this reason the leaves turn yellow.
Spathiphyllum does not respond well to heavy watering. Its leaves begin to cover brown spots and gradually the foliage dries.
If the indoor air is too dry and there is insufficient watering, the plant will also not bloom. The humidity level is increased by spraying with a spray bottle. At insufficient level humidity leaves begin to turn yellow.
The flower needs nitrogenous and phosphate fertilizers, with their deficiency, it develops poorly. A lack of fertilizing is also indicated by yellowness on the foliage.
A plant that is too old will also not bloom. It needs to be seated.
Flowering is affected by pests and diseases that can appear due to improper care.

Secrets and subtleties of home care

There are many various nuances for caring for spathiphyllum. Knowing the peculiarities of growing a flower, you can achieve regular flowering, the plant will have a healthy and attractive appearance.

Prepared for transplantation special soil composition from equal parts:

leaf part;
turf part;
sand;
peat.

Replanting must be done carefully so that the root system of the flower is not damaged. After planting, the plant needs frequent watering and spraying. Attentive care and normal conditions will promote good growth.

Spathiphyllum suffers most from pests such as spider mites, scale insects and aphids. They are the most dangerous for indoor plants.

Few housewives know a simple secret - it is better to remove the old leaves of the plant by cutting them off so that new and healthy shoots can quickly form and produce buds.

Basic rules for caring for this delicate flower will help the plant bloom for a long time. Only under comfortable conditions will “female happiness” bloom, give the opportunity to enjoy the magnificent white color and feel happy.

Spathiphyllum is a very beautiful ornamental plant that has long been decorating offices and living spaces. Bright green shiny leaves, rising like a cap above the flowerpot, are good on their own. But “female happiness” is especially beautiful during the flowering period, when tall peduncles with snow-white covers appear above the leaves or among them.

Spathiphyllum usually blooms in spring. However, sometimes a situation may arise that it is already autumn outside, but the inflorescences have not appeared. If a flower is sick, you can still understand the reason for the lack of flowering. What to do with an absolutely healthy plant that is properly cared for? They know how to make “lazy” spathiphyllum bloom experienced flower growers and will be happy to share their experience.

The key to spathiphyllum flowering is regular feeding, since the plant loves fertilizers very much. If you don’t do this, you may not see the inflorescences.

Method number 1: limit light and water

The pot must be removed from the windowsill to a darker place, for example, deep into the room, where there is lighting, but it is weak and diffuse. For two to three weeks, the spathiphyllum should be placed on a “water diet,” that is, watered only after the soil has dried well and the flower itself has dropped its leaves a little.

organics;

In gratitude for the rich nutrition, watering and lighting, after a long stay “in captivity”, in about a month the spathiphyllum should release a peduncle.

Method 2: limit heat and water

In autumn, the pot with female happiness should be taken out to a cool room with an air temperature of about 10 degrees and the amount of watering should also be reduced.

The room must be dry, since with increased humidity the flower will begin to develop diseases.

After keeping the spathiphyllum in the “isolator” for some time, then the previous care should be resumed.