How to fertilize tomatoes after planting in the ground. General rules and terms. Tomatoes Early planting of tomato seedlings in open ground

How to feed tomatoes after planting in the ground

Greetings, dear friends!

We will talk about how to feed tomatoes after planting in the ground in this article.

Tomatoes are quite demanding on nutrients and respond well to fertilization.

In late autumn, when plowing the area planned for planting tomatoes, 5 kg of humus (rotted manure) or garden compost are applied for each square. meter, and in the spring the site is filled with mineral fertilizers: double superphosphate (80 mg / sq. meter) and potassium chloride (10 mg / sq. meter). It is advisable to close up wood ash at the rate of 2-2.5 cups per square meter. meter, both in autumn and spring.

During the vegetative period of tomato development, in order to improve the growth and development of plants, as well as in order to maximize crop yields, it is necessary to make 4 root dressings of plantings. The main dose of fertilizers is applied through the soil when necessary. nutrients absorbed by the root system of plants. At each stage of the growing season of tomatoes, they require certain chemical elements.

The composition of top dressings depends on the fertility of the soil, climatic conditions, masses of hanging fruits on plants. In cool and cloudy summers, the dose of potassium in nutritional formulations should be increased (+25% of the recommended), and in dry hot summers, on the contrary, reduced.

Root top dressing of tomatoes planted in open ground

1. Spend on the twentieth - twenty-second day after planting tomato seedlings on the beds. The recommended composition of the solution (the introduction of organic matter and mineral fertilizers): liquid mullein (half a liter) and 15 ml of nitrophoska diluted in a bucket of water. Consumption - half a liter for each bush.

2. Feeding time - approximately twenty days after the first ( best moment for the second top dressing - budding of the second color brush). Composition for irrigation: chicken manure (0.4 kg), superphosphate (1 tablespoon), potassium sulfate (1 teaspoon) in a standard bucket of water. Consumption - 1 liter for each plant.

3. Feeding time - approximately 1-2 weeks after the second, when the third tomato brush begins to bloom. Composition for irrigation (fertilizing with mineral fertilizers): nitrophoska (15 ml) and potassium humate (15 ml) in a bucket of water. Consumption - 5 liters per square meter of your garden.

4. Feeding time - 11-14 days after the third. At this stage, plants only need a solution of superphosphate: a tablespoon of the composition per 10 liters clean water. Consumption - a bucket for each square. meter.

Foliar top dressing of tomatoes

Irrigation of tomato haulm or fine spraying of the nutrient composition on the leaves gives good results, improving plant growth, development of the leaf apparatus and young shoots, as well as helping to prevent color shedding. Main

The advantage of such a fertilizer is that useful substances applied directly to the leaf apparatus are absorbed by plants much faster. Spraying of landings is carried out 1-4 times during the vegetative season.

1. This composition is suitable for both outdoor and greenhouse plants. 15 g of urea and 1 g of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate) crystals are added to a bucket of water. The prepared solution is enough for irrigation of 60-70 bushes.

2. In a dry summer, when due to the heat there is a massive shedding of color, i.e., pollination does not occur, it is recommended to feed with an aqueous solution boric acid, which is prepared in the following proportion: 1 teaspoon of crystals per bucket. In addition to this composition, specialized preparations are sometimes used, for example, "Ovary".

The optimal time for foliar top dressing of tomatoes is evening, always in dry weather. Treatment with the composition at this time of day is most appropriate, since the solution dries longer on the tops and fruits and, accordingly, brings more benefits. The abundant summer dew that falls early in the morning contributes to the most complete assimilation of the nutrients remaining from the evening by the plants.

Now you know how to feed tomatoes after planting in the ground. Remember that root and foliar top dressing is especially important if the soil for tomatoes has not been previously enriched with organic matter and minerals. See you, friends!

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Growing tomatoes in open ground. My garden, vegetable garden. Piggy bank of country experience.

5.2 Pollination of tomatoes

Hello dear friends!

We continue the tomato theme. After reading the previous article, I hope you learned something new about tomatoes, about the variety of varieties of this wonderful plant, about how to prepare tomato seeds and the timing of their planting, about caring for seedlings.

In this article, we will discuss how to grow excellent harvest tomato on our summer cottages, subject to planting in open ground.

So, the topic of our today's article is growing tomatoes in open ground.

Soil preparation for tomato princes

For a rich harvest, we need, first of all, to find a good place for our pets. Tomato plants love indirect sun and will thrive in sunny but sheltered areas.

The best predecessors of tomatoes are carrots, cucumbers and onions. And if you plant your favorites next to strawberries, both cultures will benefit from this. The yield of tomato and fragrant berries will increase several times, and the fruits will become larger.

But the places where potatoes, eggplants and peppers were grown should be avoided by tomatoes. In these areas, pathogens of various diseases can accumulate.

Our country is huge. And the quality of the soil is different in all regions (even in different fields). And tomato princes are very demanding and whimsical to the earth. Therefore, we need to find out the quality of the soil in our garden.

◊ We check the acidity. A pH test can be purchased from any garden department. The lower the value, the higher the acidity. Neutral ground has a value of 7.0.

Tomatoes need soil with an acidity of 6.0 to 7.0.

In the case of a lower indicator, we add lime to the soil (0.5-0.8 kg per sq.m), if the level is higher, sulfur in the same amount.

◊ We estimate the amount of nutrients. Analysis for the presence of trace elements can be ordered and carried out in special laboratories. This is very useful information for gardeners.

It is necessary so that the cultivation of tomatoes in the open field takes place without loss and pleases with a rich harvest.

Nitrogen	Phosphorus
It affects the health of tomato leaves. With its shortage, the tomato will have yellowed, sluggish leaves.	This substance gives tomatoes strength and health. It increases the immunity and resistance of plants to diseases. With a lack of potassium, tomatoes grow poorly and look stunted.	It helps to strengthen the root system and regulates the formation of seeds. With its deficiency, tomatoes produce diseased, immature fruits.
If there is a lack of nitrogen, add fishmeal, compost or inorganic substances: calcium nitrate, ammonium sulfate or sodium nitrate.	To make up for the lack of potassium, supplement the soil with sand, granite dust or wood ash (bucket per square meter).	To raise the level of phosphorus, add superphosphates, compost and bone meal to the ground.

♦ Compost- ideal for soil preparation. It also attracts a lot of earthworms, which do an excellent job of loosening the soil and, in turn, attract and create favorable conditions for parthenogenesis of beneficial bacteria.

Prepare the ground for growing tomatoes outdoors must start at autumn period after thorough cleaning of all previous plant residues. We dig the site chosen for the plants to a depth of 30 cm.

Autumn top dressing. To a depth of 20-25 cm, we introduce organic (bird droppings, humus, peat or compost 5 kg per sq. M.) Or mineral fertilizers (potassium salt 20-25 g, superphosphate 40-50 g per sq. M.).
Spring top dressing. At a depth of 15-20 cm, we add a mixture of 1 kg of bird droppings, wood ash 1.5 kg and ammonium sulfate 20-25 g per sq. m. Or mineral top dressing (superphosphate 55 g, ammonium nitrate 20 g and potassium chloride 15 g per sq. m).

For a successful growing tomatoes the earth needs to be carefully dug up 2-3 times (preferably with a pitchfork) and harrowed. Like tomato plants and humus.

But it is better to refuse manure (tomatoes, having tasted manure fertilizers, begin to actively grow their tops, while fruit growth fades).

If the soil is not warm enough, you can cover the area with black film or plastic. The black color perfectly attracts the light of the sun and absorbs it, warming the ground under it.

On the prepared site, 5-6 days before planting, we form ridges (width 100-120 cm, height 15-20 cm) in the north-south direction. This will help to achieve uniform illumination of the seedlings.

Keep the distance between the ridges about 70 cm (for all varieties).

Growing tomatoes in open ground

Once the end comes spring frosts(usually this is the end of May - the beginning of June), we will plant young tomatoes in open ground.

It is ideal to carry out this procedure on a cloudy, gloomy day. If it's sunny outside, wait until evening.

Plant young shoots in two rows with a distance between them in a classic landing:

For undersized boles and determinant species (row spacing 40-50 cm, between plants 30-35 cm).
For medium tall (row spacing 50-60 cm, between tomatoes 40-45 cm).

Square nested fit

This method will greatly facilitate the care of our tomatoes (it will become easier to loosen them), and the plants themselves will create the most favorable living conditions: it will improve the absorption of nutrients and increase the illumination. As a result, we will achieve a good harvest. We plant according to the following scheme:

Standard and determinant varieties: 70x70 cm, 2-3 plants per nest.
Early maturing species with a spreading bush: 70x70 cm, a couple of plants in one hole.
Mid- and late-ripening: 70x70 cm, 1 bush in one nest. Or 90x90 cm (100x100 cm) - 2 plants each.

Tape-nested landing

This method of growing tomatoes in open ground makes it possible to place more bushes in one area. Crowded in one hole, it becomes easier for them to withstand bad weather conditions.

As they grow, weaker shoots thin out.

With this method, irrigation furrows are cut every 140 cm. Plants are planted on both sides of the furrows (from a row of 60 cm, in the very row after 70 cm, a pair of bushes in one nest).

Focus on the final growth of the bush. Ideally, for good development, it is necessary to provide one tomato with about 0.3 square meters. m.

On average, for a plot of 100 sq. m. will need approximately 340-420 early tomatoes, and late and medium varieties 240-290 pieces.

Let's start landing

First of all, you need to moisten the soil well in pots or seedling boxes. This will help to easily remove them from the seedling containers and prevent accidental damage to the root system.

Prepared holes for growing tomatoes in open ground should have a depth of 10-15 cm.

We water them (a bucket of water for 8-10 holes) and apply mineral fertilizers mixed with humus (proportion 1x3).

Turn the seedling container over, clasp it with a medium and index finger tomato stem and remove it from the container.
Cut off the leaves of the seedlings, leaving only 2-3 leaves on top (this will stimulate root growth).
Place the plant with the root ball upright in the hole and cover with compost. In this case, the stem of the tomato should remain open. Only roots or a soil pot are placed in the ground.
Firmly press the soil around the plant and cover the compost with dry soil.
After planting, we mulch the soil (mowed, slightly wilted grass, sawdust, straw or newspaper leaves are suitable for this). The mulch layer should be about 10 cm high.

When the planting of tomatoes in the ground is over, we will leave them alone for 8-10 days. During this period, plants take root and develop in a new place.

As long as you don't water them. But you need to be prepared for frost. To do this, immediately after disembarking, we will cover our young tomatoes with a transparent film.

It will remain until the threat of frost has passed (for middle lane this usually happens by June 5-10). Holes with a diameter of 10 cm can be made in the film. This will reduce the risk of late blight infection.

After 10 days, we water the seedlings and at the same time plant a new one in the place of the deceased. The first hilling when growing tomatoes in open ground can be done two weeks after planting seedlings.

In the future, we will hill the plants as they grow.

How to tie tomatoes

Above the rows with planted tomatoes, place pegs 50-80 cm high (depending on the growth of the bush).

Pegs are placed on north side, retreating from the stem about 10 cm. We will tie each bush to them with a bast or twine.

Plants begin to tie up when they have 4-5 true leaves. In total, 3-4 garters are produced during the growth period of a tomato.

Plants are tied up only under the brush with fruits. This allows them to be well lit and receive more heat and sunlight, which accelerates and increases yields.

Fruits, not in contact with the ground, are less susceptible to pest attacks and better protected from diseases.

Tapestry method

For medium-sized plants, large-fruited and richly fruiting, it is best to use trellises, not garters.

This method of growing tomatoes in open ground makes it easier to care for the plant, harvesting, and also lengthen the fruiting period of tomatoes. Plants are less likely to get fungal infections. This method allows you to more effectively use the garden plot (especially when it is small in size).

To do this, install columns about 1.2-1.5 m high in rows (the more often the columns are driven in, the stronger the structure will be).

Drive carnations into the poles every 20-25 cm. Attach horizontal slats to them with twine or wire.

When the tomato seedlings begin to grow (this will happen two weeks after planting), gently tie the plant brush to the slats with a soft twine or cord. Continue to tie them up as they grow, every 15-20 cm.

This method is ideal when growing tall tomatoes in greenhouses (we will talk more about caring for greenhouse giants in another article).

With the trellis method, further care of the plants will be very simple: timely tying the fruit-bearing shoots and their stepchildren to the slats.

Care for growing tomatoes in open ground

Operation	Tips
Pasynkovanie tomatoes (or formation)	It is necessary to remove side shoots constantly, starting from an early age of the plant. By the time the fruits of stepchildren ripen, there should no longer be.	It is necessary to remove them until the shoots reach 3-5 cm in length. It's best to do this in the morning. In the southern, sunny regions, you can not remove the stepchildren completely, just do not tie them up. But in the north, this operation is required (leave only 2-3 stems for each bush). In extreme heat, this procedure cannot be carried out.
Top dressing tomato	Once every 10 days. The first time we feed tomatoes two weeks after planting.	The first top dressing with a solution of mullein (1x10) or chicken manure (1x20). Repeated dressings are carried out with mineral fertilizers (nitrophoska 60g + water 10l). Quantity: before flowering, 1 liter for each bush, after flowering, 2-5 liters.
Watering tomatoes	Abundant, but rare watering.	In spring and early summer, water the tomatoes once a week. In warm summertime, limit yourself to one watering every 2-3 days. Water the bushes under the root in the evening.
spraying	We spray every week, alternating the composition of the liquid. The first spraying immediately after landing in open ground (Bordeaux liquid).	Alternate Bordeaux mixture and homemade onion tincture.

How to pinch tomatoes. When removing stepchildren, do not pull them out, but gently break them out, clasping your index finger and thumb. Gently pull them to the side and break them off.

If they have grown too large, cut with a sharp knife or razor. First of all, get rid of the stepchildren growing under the brushes (otherwise the tomato may drop the ovary).

For better harvest when growing tomatoes in open ground, at the end of summer, pinch the tops of all shoots with fruits.

Also remove excess flower clusters where fruit failed to form.

Preparation of Bordeaux liquid. We extinguish in water quicklime(100 g) and add water (about 5 l). In another container in a small amount hot water dissolve copper sulfate (100 g) and add 5 liters of water.

Then pour the vitriol solution into the slaked lime. The correct liquid will have a sky blue hue.

Just in case, measure the alkaline reaction with an indicator ( Bordeaux mixture should be neutral or slightly alkaline).

You can use any iron objects to check. If the metal is covered with a layer of copper, you have made a solution that is too acidic. More lime needs to be added. But do not overdo it, otherwise the liquid will lose its beneficial qualities.

Preparation of onion tincture. Grind onion-turnip and garlic (100 g each) with a meat grinder. We transfer the mixture into a glass container with a volume of 3 liters and fill it with ¾ of water. We close and insist 3 days.

Shake it periodically. In parallel, in a plastic bucket, pour bird droppings (200 g) with water and set to infuse. Before use, both mixtures are mixed and filtered.

For top dressing when growing tomatoes in open ground, it is useful to use fermented nettle and ash.

Also, a couple of times in the fruiting season, feed the plants with microelements (crush 5 tablets and stir them in ½ liter of water, then add another 10 liters of water). Consumption 1 liter for each bush.

banana fertilizer. We are preparing a natural, very healthy top dressing, enriched with calcium and phosphorus. This remedy is made from the peel of bananas.

Cover the oven tray with food foil. Lay the banana peel on top with the outer side down (so it doesn't stick). Place the tray in the oven.
After it is roasted and cooled, the peel is ground into flour and placed in an airtight bag.

Sprinkle banana flour around the plant roots once every two weeks.

To get an excellent crop of tomatoes, you need to not only properly water and feed them. They need pollination.

Pollination of tomatoes

The tomato is a self-pollinating plant. When growing tomatoes in open ground, these plants create a lot of high-quality pollen, which is also enough for neighboring flowers.

To help with pollination, attract helper insects (bees, bumblebees).

To do this, plant bright annual honey plants between tomatoes: rapeseed, coriander, basil and mustard. By the way, these cultures improve the taste of the fruits themselves.

But it is not always possible for a tomato to self-pollinate. There can be many reasons:

Temperature drop at night (below +13°C). Under such conditions, deformation of the anther occurs.
Too high daytime temperature (above + 30-35 ° C). In hot weather, flowers fall off and pollen grains die.
Features of the structure of the pistil of some large-fruited varieties(it sticks out and the pollen does not fall on the stamens). Or the pestle is too wide.

In such cases, we need to help pollinate our tomatoes. You can tilt down the buds with a protruding pistil and gently shake the flower. Or it is easy to tap on a trellis or a flowering brush.

The best time for artificial pollination is 10-14 hours, at a temperature of + 22-27 ° C. Ideal air humidity is not more than 70%. Repeat the pollination procedure after 4 days.

Immediately after pollination, water the tomatoes or spray the flower with water (so that the pollen sticks to the pestle). The last flowers to appear are usually empty and underdeveloped. It is better to remove them immediately.

Secrets of growing tomatoes. An amazing tomato has one feature - it is completely unpretentious.

And it can bear fruit even if your care is limited only to watering and weeding.

But the tomato is very responsive. And the more carefully you take care of the plants, the more harvest they will give you.

But do not overdo it in your desire to please him. Golden Rule for growing tomatoes - everything is good in moderation!

Tomato care should be within reasonable, competent limits!

Now, my dear friends, you know how to grow our precious tomatoes outdoors. Next, we have to learn about growing tomatoes in a greenhouse and the possible difficulties (diseases and pests) in growing them.

I also suggest looking short video With several useful tips for growing tomatoes.

See you soon, dear friends!

www.syperdacha.ru

Fertilizer for cucumbers and tomatoes (tomatoes): in the greenhouse, open field

The first condition for obtaining a high yield of tomatoes and cucumbers is fertile soil. Naturally, every year the earth, endowing us bountiful harvest, loses many useful trace elements, therefore, to replenish stocks, fertilizers for cucumbers and tomatoes should be regularly applied. Usually fertilize the soil before planting, in its process and after planting vegetables.

Basic requirements for growing

Cucumbers are very demanding crops in terms of soil fertility, for active growth it is necessary to provide a nutritious habitat that will help ensure an excellent harvest. The best soil for the development of cucumbers is light loamy soil with a neutral reaction, enriched with humus.

For cucumbers, it is best to use fractional (partial) fertilization, as plants require a large amount of nutrients, however, an excess of minerals can also have a negative effect. Deciding on fertilizers is not an easy task, because, depending on the stages of development, various trace elements and minerals.

How to fertilize cucumbers

Some gardeners prefer organic fertilizers, others prefer mineral supplements relating to agricultural chemistry. To tell the truth, with the right approach: compliance with the norms of dosages and time of use, both will be effective. For those vegetable growers who are just getting acquainted with the cultivation of this crop, it would be best to use complex mineral fertilizers, for example, Agricola, Kemira Lux, etc. On the label, the manufacturer contains all the comprehensive information about the terms of use and recommended dosages.

If you are an experienced gardener and have some idea about fertilizers, then you can safely add potassium, phosphorus and nitrogen to the soil as an independent element, focusing on the need for cucumbers in a particular growth period.

You can determine the deficiency of any element by appearance plants:

Foliage color from salad to light green - lack of nitrogen.
The leaves are rounded, wrapped down - calcium deficiency.
A light border appears around the leaf blade - a lack of potassium.

Too lightened veins on the foliage - not enough magnesium.

1 top dressing - 14 days after planting in the ground.

2 times - during the flowering period.

3 application - during fruit ripening.

4 times - top dressing is carried out to prolong fruiting.

The use of mineral compounds:

For the first application of fertilizer, it is better to use root dressing, for this, when loosening the soil, distribute over the garden, 5 g of ammophos per 1 sq. m.
The second top dressing can be carried out both root and foliar.
Root - dilute 30 g of ammonium nitrate and superphosphate, and also add 20 g of potassium nitrate - to 10 liters of water.
Foliar (spraying) - dilute 2 tablespoons of superphosphate per 10 liters of water.
For the third fertilization - carry out root top dressing. In a ten-liter bucket, dilute 50 g of urea or 2 liters. Potassium saltpeter.
The fourth foliar top dressing - for 10 liters of water - dilute 15 g of urea and spray the cucumber beds with the resulting solution.

Application of organic fertilizers

In the first feeding, slurry is used (8 liters of water / 1 liter of slurry).
For the second, ash is suitable as a fertilizer (1 tbsp. ash / 10 l of water). Stir and apply under the roots of plants.
For the third fertilizer, the Gummi preparation is best suited (10 liters of water - 2 liters of the preparation).

You should stop making various top dressings 2 to 3 weeks before the planned harvest.

Tip: When choosing fertilizers for growing cucumbers in a greenhouse, choose those that do not contain nitrate nitrogen.

Basic requirements for growing tomatoes

Fertilizers for tomatoes can be purchased ready-made, or you can make it yourself.

The main rule when growing tomatoes is to observe the optimal dosages when using fertilizer for tomatoes, because an excess of organic additives (manure, chicken manure), mineral nitrogen fertilizers can lead to negative consequences. Preference should be given to phosphorus-potassium compounds, potassium sulfate will also benefit from ash.

Tomatoes, unlike cucumbers, prefer slightly acidic soils than neutral compounds.

When growing tomatoes, remember what absolutely cannot be done:

Over-fertilize the soil with organic fertilizers.
When planting seedlings in the soil, add manure or bird droppings to the holes (plants will grow, not fruit ovary).
Use fertilizer - mullein more than 3 times per season.
Apply urea under plants, it is recommended to apply only once this fertilizer in the initial stage of vegetation, as a foliar top dressing.
It is not recommended to change fertilizers for tomatoes. Best Option, choose one of the complex mineral compositions(for example, ammophos, diammophos, nitroammofoska, etc.) and use it together with organics, adhering to strictly defined dosages. Before choosing a fertilizer for tomatoes, take into account the characteristics of the soil.

How to fertilize tomatoes

The first top dressing of tomatoes occurs at the beginning of June, 1 liter of fertilizer mixture is added under each bush:
10 liters of water.

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In recent years, gardeners have preferred organic top dressing, trying to add less chemical fertilizers to the soil.

Homemade cheap, but very effective is very popular. green manure". But about him, a little lower. So, two weeks have passed since you planted tomato seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground. It's time to feed the plants. Types of dressings

There are two types of supplements. Root and non-root.

Root top dressing is used by most gardeners. This is plant nutrition root system, that is, watering with a nutrient solution under the root.

Many people know about foliar, but they use it less often, but in vain.

Foliar - this is when we apply the nutrient solution directly to the leaves of plants. This type of feeding has a number of advantages. Firstly, this top dressing allows you to save fertilizer. Because when we apply fertilizers for plants to the soil, a significant part of the nutrients is washed out with irrigation, during rain, not all nutrients get to the plant.

And when we bring the solution to the surface of the leaf, then all the nutrients pass into the leaf. And it happens very quickly. Therefore, foliar dressing acts much faster than root dressing. Secondly, such top dressing is used to quickly help a plant suffering from a lack of one or another trace element. I try to use more foliar top dressing for seedlings, for plants recently planted in open ground or greenhouse, that is, for younger seedlings.

For foliar top dressing, lower concentrations of the solution are used than for root top dressing, so as not to cause leaf burn. For it, fertilizers are used that completely dissolve without sediment in water and which do not contain chlorine. Usually these are liquid forms of fertilizer mixtures. Try to use non-chlorinated water for the preparation of nutrient solutions - rainwater or at least settled tap water.

When to Feed Tomatoes

Highly important point: if you are doing foliar or root dressing, then this should be done in the morning or in the evening. Why is that? If we are talking about foliar top dressing, then the nutrient solution should be on the surface of the leaves as long as possible so that it can be absorbed. And in sunny weather, spraying the leaves can cause a burn. This is first. And secondly, the sun will quickly dry up the droplets of the nutrient solution and it will not have time to be completely absorbed into the leaves. When foliar top dressing, you should ensure that the solution gets not only on the outside of the leaf, but also on the inside.

Plants should also be watered under the root with a nutrient solution early in the morning or in the evening. I prefer evening watering, and my dacha neighbor only waters his tomatoes or cucumbers early in the morning. The reasons also seem to be clear: water or a nutrient solution that gets on the leaves during the day in sunny weather can cause foliage burns. You should not force the plant to spend energy on repairing or healing wounds.

How often should you fertilize

Usually they ask the question, how often should I fertilize tomatoes? The short answer is not very often. And, to be more precise, I spend top dressing, both root and foliar in 10-15 days. That is, about 2-3 times a month. I alternate them. Once - foliar top dressing, the next time - I feed my tomatoes under the root.

I do foliar top dressing (spraying) in the first half of the growing season, that is, as soon as I noticed that the first fruits were poured, began to turn white, I stop top dressing. And I continue to do root throughout the entire growing season (development) of tomatoes.

The first time you should feed the tomatoes 10-12 days after planting seedlings in a greenhouse or open ground. When the flowering of tomatoes begins, do not miss the feeding time - the number of ovaries and the harvest will depend on them.

In a greenhouse or in open ground, top dressing is carried out as follows. Each plant needs to be fed individually. If the soil under the plants is dry, then before feeding it is necessary to slightly moisten the soil. Pour the tomatoes with clean water, the temperature of which is not lower than 20-22ºС. When watering in a greenhouse, try not to get water on the leaves - excess moisture is useless there. Water in the morning - after that, be sure to ventilate the greenhouse. And after watering, pour half a liter of nutrient solution under each tomato bush.

I try to do foliar top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse in the morning so that by the evening the nutrient solution is absorbed into the leaves. Plants should be dry at night. How to feed tomatoes

For the first top dressing after transplanting seedlings into a greenhouse or open ground, I use liquid fertilizer based on humates.

This year it is GUMI Kuznetsova (natural fertility elixir). For 10 liters of water - 2 tablespoons of the elixir.

But you can start from the assortment of your stores for gardeners and gardeners. Not bad to use Gumat-80, Gumat+7, Gumat-Universal, Emerald, Ideal. For 10 liters of water, 1-2 tablespoons of fertilizer is enough. Here, add 1 tablespoon of instant mineral fertilizer (for example, Fertika Universal).

For each plant, 0.5 liters of solution is enough.

Tomatoes are better to underfeed than overfeed. Therefore, when planting seedlings in open ground or a greenhouse from mineral fertilizers, I use only ash and compost. After planting - fertilizer based on humates with Fertika Universal. And that's all. The following top dressings are only organic.

How to make your own organic "green manure"

I really like the positive reaction of my tomatoes to the "green manure". How do I prepare it? Very simple. There are a lot of recipes for such a "green manure". Its basis is mowed green weed grass.

I have an old metal 200 liter barrel. But it is not advised to harvest this fertilizer in a metal barrel, apparently, the process of metal oxidation negatively affects the quality. I don't have a plastic barrel. You know, there are almost no hopeless situations. I bought huge 200-liter plastic bags. I put one bag in another (for strength) and placed them in a barrel. I filled them 1/3 full with water so that the water straightened them. The polyethylene warmed up a little in the sun, became elastic, stretched and the bags were tightly dressed on the outside on the edge of the barrel. I got it metal barrel with plastic insert.

So, I already had a little water in the barrel, I add mowed grass there. Experienced gardeners advise filling the barrel with cut nettles. But I didn’t have so many nettles, so I sketched an almost full (2/3) barrel of various weeds, including nettles. From above I threw about 1 kg of wood ash, half a bucket of chicken manure, added 2 liters of milk "store" whey (natural, they say, 1 liter is enough) and a pack of baker's yeast (100 g). I added water almost to the top.

I read this recipe a long time ago in the book “Smart Farming” by Yu.I. Sweetie. He calls this solution an infusion of microbial organisms. The author recommends adding mash instead of yeast - 3 liters of non-chlorinated water, 150 g of sugar, leave for 2-3 days.

The solution in the barrel ferments very actively and the stench, sorry for the details, is not the most pleasant. And you need to mix the fertilizer at least once a day. All this is infused for 1.5-2 weeks. Then I take out the fermented grass. It dries up in the sun and I put it under the zucchini. Why under the zucchini - I do not know. It's been like that from the very beginning. The zucchini are very grateful. You can try using this mulch on other plants.

A little more than half of the nutritious infusion in a barrel is obtained. I top up the barrel. I take a ready-made infusion (500 ml), add it to a watering can with water (6 liters), pour tomatoes, cucumbers, eggplants, pumpkins - half a liter of solution per bush. Yes, I almost forgot. The effect will be better if the soil under the plants is moist. That is, before root dressing, be sure to water the tomatoes.

I really like the result of such feeding - the plants are always green, they look healthy, they tolerate bad weather well, they grow very quickly, a lot of fruits are tied and, it seems to me, they began to get sick less, that is, their immunity has increased.

This solution can be carried out root and foliar top dressing. I usually spend foliar on young plants planted in open ground or in a greenhouse. Watering under the root - every 10-12 days.

I have enough of this solution for a long time. But everything, of course, depends on the number of plants planted. If I feel that there is not enough “green fertilizer”, then after less than half of it remains in the barrel, I fill the barrel with new grass. I don't add anything else but water. I wait 10-15 days - a new nutrient solution is ready.

This "green manure" works well against late blight. At least, it seems to me that after I started using it, there were almost no cases of phytophthora on leaves and fruits. Last year (2013), only a few tomato fruits (5 pieces) growing in open ground were thrown out from one bush. On the rest of the bushes, I did not notice any signs of phytophthora.

But this garden year (2014) began with rainy weather. Humidity, both in the greenhouse and in the garden, is high. And I, in order to prevent the appearance of late blight on tomatoes, mealy or false powdery mildew on cucumbers, zucchini, I additionally treat the plants with a solution of whey (1 liter per 10 liters of water), to which I add 10 drops of iodine. This solution is especially beneficial for tomatoes. Iodine helps to increase the number of ovaries, and whey has a depressing effect on pathogenic fungi.

For the prevention of late blight on tomatoes, I alternate treatments. Once with a solution of whey, and the other with a solution of Fitosporin. This drug not only protects tomatoes from the development of late blight, it also nourishes the plants with bioactivated microelements, especially its new modification - Fitosporin-M. Sometimes I skip the lactic acid treatment, but I definitely replace it with a Fitosporin solution, which well suppresses the development of fungal and bacterial diseases on plants.

Don't forget that moisture high humidity in greenhouses or in the garden during the rainy period - they have a beneficial effect on the development of phytophthora, other fungal, bacterial diseases. Be sure to treat your seedlings, do not wait for the first signs of the disease to appear. If the disease began to manifest itself, then it is too late to fight it and it is practically useless.

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Top dressing of tomatoes during flowering | LS

Everyone knows that tomatoes that are grown on their own garden plot much tastier than those sold in shops and markets. In order for the harvest to please with its abundance, and the tomatoes to be large, juicy and tasty, the plants need to be provided with proper care and conditions for good development.

For good growth tomatoes need food, because what more abundant harvest, the more nutrients it takes from the soil. That is why plants need periodic top dressing.

Tomatoes do not like an overabundance of fertilizers. An imbalance of certain substances in the soil can cause stunting, disease, or dropping of ovaries in the plant.

Fertilizing tomatoes with yeast

Ordinary nutritional yeast can act as a top dressing for tomatoes. They contain many substances that these plants need. You can fertilize tomatoes 2 times a season. To prepare the product, take 1 sachet of instant yeast, mix with 2 tbsp. l. Sahara, warm water(a small amount), after insisting for a couple of hours and mixed with 1 bucket of water. This composition is used when watering plants as follows: 0.5 liters of solution will be needed for 1 watering can of water. The effect will be visible after 3 days: the tomatoes grow quickly, and the leaves and stems become stronger.
Another way to prepare yeast top dressing: fill a 3-liter glass jar 2/3 with brown bread, add 100 gr. raw yeast (pre-dilute with water). Pour everything with warm water, close the lid and put in a large saucepan (the solution will pour out of the container during fermentation). The mixture should ferment for at least 3 days. After it, you need to strain and water the tomatoes in the following proportion: for 10 liters of water, 1 liter of solution.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field during flowering

Many novice gardeners do not know exactly what products to use to fertilize tomatoes during flowering. Caring for seedlings in the open field requires a lot of time and effort. Top dressing is used in cases where the seedlings were planted in, which was not fertilized in advance.

Usually seedlings develop for about 2 months and throughout this time the plants need food. Special attention you need to pay attention to the period of formation of the ovary of flowers and the flowering itself. At this time, you can use both simple mineral fertilizers, such as urea, superphosphate, ammonium nitrate, and complex ones designed specifically for tomato seedlings - diammophos, nitroammophoska, kemira, etc.

It is convenient to use special nutrient boxes and pots that are filled with a substrate, a soil mixture with the necessary organic substances. You can use a solution of mullein or chicken droppings as fertilizers, and during flowering, it is useful to sprinkle the inflorescences themselves with a boric solution.

An element like phosphorus important at all stages of development and formation of tomatoes. It is responsible for the proper development of the roots and helps to activate the processes of fruit set. The first top dressing should be done 21 days after transplanting. To do this, you need to make a solution: for 10 liters of water, 0.5 kg of liquid mullein and 1 tbsp. l. nitrophoska.

The next top dressing is done during the blooming of brushes with flowers. To do this, it is better to use ready-made fertilizers for tomatoes during flowering, for example, such as Senor tomato - 1 tbsp. l. this drug must be diluted in 10 liters of water. You can use mineral fertilizer Tomato Master.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse during flowering

Tomatoes that are grown in greenhouse conditions, as well as those that grow in open ground, need regular top dressing. You can fertilize such seedlings from the very beginning of development, immediately after the first leaves have formed. It is best to choose a top dressing for these purposes, which includes many different nutrients.

During the flowering of tomatoes, you need to carefully use fertilizers that contain nitrogen. Dose the use of biohumus, granular compost, etc. organic fertilizers. They can certainly be used, but the effect will be weak.

Tomato care: pinching

In order for tomatoes to give large fruits and accelerate growth, it is necessary to carry out the formation of the plants themselves. It consists in getting rid of the side trunks that grow between the leaves, they are also called stepchildren.

The very first pinching is done 3 weeks after planting the seedlings. During this time, the tomatoes reach a size of 7 cm. After this procedure, you need to carry out this procedure regularly. It is necessary to break out the branches with the thumb and forefinger. They cannot be torn out, otherwise wounds are formed that heal for a long time, fungal infections can penetrate into the plant through them. If the pinching was done with some delay, then the shoots must be cut with a sharp knife, not forgetting to leave 1 cm near the trunk.

What can happen if you do not feed tomatoes?

If you refuse to feed, the leaves of the plant will suffer first. They will lose their shape, begin to curl even at the very beginning of growth, and may fall off. This is often due to an excess of nitrogen in the soil, and its deficiency is manifested in the yellowing of the foliage, its stunting and falling off. The most important thing is not to confuse these symptoms with exposure. low temperatures and lack of moisture.
Feed the tomatoes greenhouse conditions you also need phosphorus, because due to its lack, the plant can acquire purple. But if the leaves grow normally, then the deficiency of the substance is considered the norm.
Calcium deficiency is less common. It is formed more often when cultivating a crop in greenhouse conditions and manifests itself in the form of top rot on the bushes themselves. Feeding seedlings is necessary in a small amount, but often. Best to apply complex fertilizers.

We continue the conversation about growing tomatoes in the open field. We have already talked about, and now let's talk about the basic principles of caring for tomatoes, which will allow you to get good harvest.

Unfortunately, you can’t just stick the plant into the ground, and after a couple of months come for the harvest. If with such an attitude something grows, then it will not be much. To harvest a decent crop of tomatoes, after planting seedlings in open ground and before harvesting, a number of measures are needed:

Measures for the care of tomatoes

frost protection
regular watering
top dressing
tillage:
- loosening
- weeding
- mulching
- hilling
disease protection
tying up
plant formation
- removal of leaves
- stepchildren
- thinning ovaries
- pinching

If you plant seedlings in the ground at an early date, you can get more early harvest and increase the fruiting period. However, there is a risk of death of planted plants from frost. In most cases, tomatoes die at temperatures from +2 to -1˚С.

It is most effective to make a general film shelter for the entire garden. To do this, it is convenient to dig in wire arcs, on which the film is stretched when it gets cold. If during the day the temperature does not rise above 15˚С, the film can be left on.

You can make individual shelters-caps from paper, fabric, film, boxes - any material that can be used to cover a tomato bush, creating your own microclimate under it.

We cover the bush with a bucket

Low-growing seedlings can be planted with earth before the onset of frost and dug up after the frost has passed. Try to cover the entire plant with soil. If the tops still freeze, stepchildren will grow from the remaining lateral buds, from which you can get a good harvest.

We bury a bush

Watering

Tomatoes need rare but plentiful watering. Frequent watering small portions are harmful, however, as well as excessive ones. The lack of moisture leads to the defeat of fruits with blossom end rot, the excess creates favorable conditions for gray rot and phytophthora.

Tomatoes love dry tops, so watering is done only at the root. When watering by sprinkling (from a watering can, from a hose with a sprinkler), the temperature of the soil and air decreases sharply, which has a bad effect on flowering, increases the shedding of flowers, and delays the setting and ripening of fruits. In addition, this increases the humidity of the air, which contributes to the spread of fungal diseases.

The need for watering can be determined by the appearance of the leaves. With a lack of moisture, they darken and wither in the heat.

The first 10-15 days after planting the seedlings, the plants can not be watered. The water poured into the hole during planting should be enough to root and start growing.

When active plant growth begins and ovaries appear, the need for water increases dramatically. If there is no rain during this period, watering is carried out every 5-7 days, pouring 3-5 liters of water into each well.

During the period of fruit growth, the soil must be constantly moistened (this can be achieved by mulching). Sudden changes in soil moisture cause growth of green fruits to stop and ripe ones to crack.

When the fruit ripening begins, watering the early undersized varieties reduce, and tall varieties, on the contrary, increase.

top dressing

Usually, the first top dressing is done about 10 days after planting the seedlings in the ground. On the square meter contribute 5-6 g of urea, 20-25 g double superphosphate, 6-10 g of potassium salt or a similar amount of other nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium fertilizers.

Further feeding is carried out every 7-15 days, depending on what is fed and on the condition of the plants. With a lack of nitrogen, plant growth stops, the leaves and stems have a pale green color, then the leaves turn yellow and fall off, starting from the bottom of the stem. With a lack of phosphorus, plants do not absorb nitrogen well, which leads to stunting. The stem and petioles acquire a bluish color, later the leaves turn gray. With a lack of potassium, small yellow-brown spots form along the edges of the leaves, the edges of the leaves curl, brown spots appear on the fruits.

At the beginning of growth, it is better to use liquid organic fertilizers - a solution of cow manure or bird droppings, 0.6-0.8 liters per plant.

The development of tomatoes is well influenced by feeding with infusion of grass. Grass is placed in a barrel (plastic or well-painted metal), filled with water and loosely closed with a lid. After two weeks, the infusion is diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 and used for irrigation (3-5 liters per plant). The best infusion is obtained from nettle, but you can use any herb, including seeds - seeds die from long soaking and fermentation. Such a fertilizer has a great advantage - you don’t need to buy it, you don’t have to go anywhere to get it, usually there is a lot of grass both on the site itself and next to it. With good soil fertility, you can not use either mineral fertilizers or manure - an infusion of grass will suffice. Watering with infusion is done every 7-14 days, depending on the condition of the plants. It is impossible to water with undiluted infusion, so as not to “burn” the roots and soil with nitrogen.

When choosing a place for a barrel, keep in mind that during the fermentation of grass, very bad smell. Therefore, it is better to put such a barrel in a remote corner of the site.

Loading the barrel with grass

In addition to the usual, foliar top dressing can be carried out (as an addition to the main diet, but not as a replacement). For this, they are well used soluble fertilizers, for example, for 10 liters of water 16 g of urea, 10 g of superphosphate and 10 g of potassium sulfate. Potassium chloride and other fertilizers containing chlorine are not used because tomatoes do not tolerate it well. Superphosphate does not completely dissolve in water, so it is soaked for a day in water at a ratio of 1:10 and stirred occasionally, and the solution is filtered through several layers of gauze before spraying. For spraying, you can also use an infusion of herbs, diluting it in a ratio of 1:20.

Spraying is best done in the evening so that the solution applied to the leaves dries slowly. Such top dressing is often combined with treatment against diseases - to combat fungal diseases 2-3 times per season, especially after rains, the leaves are treated with Bordeaux liquid or other copper-containing preparations.

Soil cultivation (loosening, weeding, mulching, hilling)

After watering, the soil is loosened, destroying the resulting crust, and at the same time destroying the weeds. The first loosening should be deep (about 10 cm deep). This creates conditions for good soil heating, which is important for the start of active plant growth, and provides air access to the roots. Subsequent weeding is carried out to a depth of 4-5 cm to prevent soil compaction and swimming. If this is not done, the functioning of the root system deteriorates significantly. Of course, loosening, especially near the trunk, should be done carefully so as not to damage the roots.

We loosen the soil

Weeds take nutrients from tomatoes, block light, increase moisture and promote disease - all of these are serious reasons for regular weeding of beds and row spacings. Weeds (preferably chopped and without seeds) can be left in the aisles and in the beds - they will serve as mulch (soil cover that retards the growth of weeds and the evaporation of moisture from the soil) and additional source carbon dioxide needed for plant growth.

In addition to chopped grass, compost, humus, and a special film can be used as mulch. It is better to start mulching the soil in the beds after the planted plants take root and begin to grow actively - mulch, if it is not a dark film, can prevent the soil from warming up, which is necessary at the initial stage of growth. Until that time, all weeds can be allowed to mulch between rows.

Hilling is a controversial procedure. Some experts argue that hilling is absolutely necessary, others say that it is not necessary, and even harmful. We, based on our own experience, can say with confidence that you can get a good harvest with and without hilling.

To understand whether it is necessary to spud tomato bushes, you need to figure out why it is needed at all. The meaning of hilling is simple - it allows the tomato to grow additional roots. For example, if hilling is carried out after the appearance of the lower stepchildren, the stems of these stepchildren will give their own roots and will grow almost like separate plants, which will allow you to get more full-fledged bushes (and hence the crop) with the same number of seedlings. Hilling tomatoes of low-growing varieties makes the plants more stable, which allows you not to waste time and effort on tying them up. Otherwise, if the seedlings are planted deep enough, the root system will be sufficiently developed not to carry out hilling.

plant formation

To accelerate the ripening of fruits and increase productivity, a tomato bush must be formed. The formation includes the removal of leaves, pinching, thinning of the ovaries and pinching. For beginner gardeners, the formation, especially pinching, raises many questions, which we will answer in detail in the second part of the article.

Top dressing of tomatoes should be carried out in several stages. When preparing a site for planting tomatoes in early spring, digging the ground, you need to add humus at the rate of 16 kg per sq.m.

At the earliest stages, when planting seedlings in the ground and until the ovaries appear, a pre-prepared mixture is placed in each well. It is prepared from potassium chloride, wood ash and superphosphate and applied to the soil two weeks before planting. For preparation land for seedlings, you can also use urea. It should be borne in mind that an overdose of nitrogen fertilizers can lead to the fact that stems, leaves, shoots will actively grow, and ovaries may not form at all. The risk of fungal infections of the plant increases. From the middle of the growing season, nitrogen fertilizers are no longer applied at all.

Feeding scheme

Regular feeding of tomatoes is necessary for two reasons:

showers and melt water thoroughly wash out potassium and nitrogen from the soil; all types of tomatoes are intensive crops and require a lot of minerals.

As the tomatoes grow and ripen, they should be fed according to the following scheme:

2-3 weeks after landing. Further, temporarily do not feed the culture, waiting for the strengthening of the fruit that has set; resume fertilizing after the 2nd flower brush appears; after the 3rd flower brush has blossomed; after 12 days. The main emphasis in top dressing is on the root, since more fertilizer is always applied through the soil.

Choice of finished fertilizer

There are a large number of fertilizers on sale, which must be selected taking into account the composition of the soil on the site. Tomatoes are grown on soils of various types, but the most suitable is loose, fertile, capable of warming up well. Agricola, Effekton, Kemira-Universal are recommended from complex mineral fertilizers. From concentrated fertilizers, nitroammophoska, produced in granules, is often used, each which contains equal amounts of phosphorus, nitrogen and potassium.

The distribution of minerals in the soil occurs evenly. Nitroammophoska is diluted in an amount of 2 matchboxes fertilizer on a bucket of water. Diammophos is also used.

Many gardeners believe that the most effective tool biohumus is considered top dressing, the use of which in the amount of 1 cup for each bush of a plant at any stage of growth can increase yield by 30%.

Fertilizers of own preparation

Often, gardeners, using available improvised means, prepare top dressing themselves. Many of the nutrients that tomatoes need for growth are found in ordinary brewer's yeast. Fertilizer is prepared in two ways: 1.

Make a solution from a package of instant yeast, 2 tbsp. l. sugar and a little warm water. After about 2 hours, the infusion is mixed with a bucket of water. Yeast fertilizer in a volume of 0.5 liters is added to a watering can of water. The effect is noticeable after a few days.2.

Fertilizer is also prepared from raw yeast. A 3-liter jar is filled with brown bread by 2/3, poured with warm water with fresh yeast (100 g) dissolved in it. Leave to ferment in a warm place for a period of 3 days.

The filtered solution is mixed with water for irrigation in a ratio of 1:10.3. To eliminate calcium deficiency in the soil, use eggshell containing calcium and magnesium.

To enrich the earth with these substances, it is optimal to use a water infusion on crushed shells. It is necessary to withstand the solution under the lid for 2 weeks, the degree of readiness is determined by the appearance of a pungent odor.

Infusion is added to water for watering tomatoes in a ratio of 1 to 3. An effective fertilizer is cow dung. You can lay it out in the beds, and if water gets on the fertilizer, the tomatoes will receive regular top dressing.

For a more effective effect, manure is mixed with peat and the soil is mulched with this composition. When small fruits appear, many gardeners often use diluted chicken manure, sometimes with the addition of urea. This must be done very carefully, otherwise there is a risk of burning the roots of plants. To do this, it is necessary to water the solution at some distance from the plants, by 15 centimeters. Gardeners also use potassium permanganate in the form of a weak solution, which is both a fertilizer and protective agent from diseases.

Foliar plant nutrition

Additional foliar feeding is used to stimulate the plant's defenses. Good results are obtained by spraying with the New Ideal preparation, which is carried out once a week.

During flowering, a successful foliar application is carried out with a solution of boric acid, diluted in a ratio of 1 g per liter of water. 2-3 such sprays every 10 days help to improve fruit set. It is not surprising that tomatoes require such careful care, because a ready-to-eat vegetable is very rich in a variety of biologically active substances and has a whole range of useful properties. A tomato is tasty not only in its raw form , but also in salted, marinated, in the form of pastes and juices.

Tomatoes are strong antioxidants that can prevent cell aging. This vegetable reduces the risk of cancer. Tomato cleanses the walls of blood vessels, preventing strokes, heart attacks, atherosclerosis.

Used for varicose veins. In terms of iron content, it surpasses chicken meat, milk and fish.

Fertilizer methods for tomatoes

Yeast is one of the best plant growth stimulants. How to feed tomatoes? The most common feeding methods are: bird droppings, ash, yeast and others. Let's take a closer look at each of them. Yeast.

They are best stimulant plant growth. Recipe for the preparation of yeast fertilizer: 20 grams of yeast is diluted in 10 liters of water, left for 24 hours, the plants are fertilized with the resulting solution. "Rostmoment" is a ready-made fertilizer, which is produced on the basis of yeast. It is also suitable for planting tomatoes.

This tool is the best biostimulator of growth and further development of plants. Using this fertilizer, you can be sure of its quality. "Rostmoment" is suitable for fertilizing tomatoes that grow in pots. Ash is an excellent source of potassium and phosphorus, magnesium, sulfur, zinc and other trace elements.

Ash is added before planting seedlings in each well. To do this, take 3 tablespoons of ash and mix it with the soil.

To enrich the soil, 3 cups of ash per 1 square meter is required. Fertilizing the soil when planting tomatoes plays a key role in the growth of fruits. Chicken manure is a fairly valuable fertilizer. His chemical composition ahead of manure, and nutrients are contained in a fairly light form.

Feeding tomatoes with chicken manure has a prolonged effect, even after two or three years after fertilization, the soil remains saturated and has a positive effect on plants. Feeding from bird droppings is prepared quite easily.

The concentration of the solution is prepared depending on the stage at which the tomatoes grow. You can prepare the following composition: 100 g of fresh bird droppings are added to 10 liters of water, infused for 24 hours and the plants are watered. Top dressing with manure with bedding is applied during tillage, in the ratio of 6 kg of fertilizer per 1 sq. m. Chicken manure is not universal fertilizer, therefore, in addition to it, it is necessary to introduce other top dressing into the soil, such as ammonium nitrate, superphosphate. For good result it is not necessary to use expensive fertilizers, the main thing is not to exceed the dosage and apply them to the soil in time. Nitrophoska and other complex fertilizers are applied at seedlings of tomatoes at 0.5 teaspoon per 1 liter of water. Planting tomatoes begins with the use of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon per well. Through 5 days after planting, you can water the tomatoes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Stages of growing tomatoes in the garden

in the fall, when digging the soil, 4 kg is applied per 1 square m of humus or compost; in the spring, it is necessary to fill the soil with mineral fertilizers: 80 g per 1 square m of superphosphate and 20 g per 1 square m of potassium chloride; after planting seedlings in 10-15 days, they plan the first top dressing , and the second - already at the beginning of fruit formation; in order for the fruits to set sooner, use a 0.5% solution of superphosphate or a solution of boric acid. The solution that has settled is drained and sprayed with tomatoes.

Thus, fertilizing the soil when planting tomatoes plays a key role in the growth of future fruits. Today there are a large number various fertilizers, which can improve the quality of the fruit, the main thing is to follow the exact instructions for the dosage and time of applying them to the soil. With the help of top dressing, you can grow an excellent crop of tomatoes on the soil, which is not particularly fertile.

Growing tomatoes in open ground

Article posted by: Serg (74)

Sowing and caring for seedlings

Seeds of tomato varieties intended for outdoor cultivation are sown directly in nutrient pots, i.e. without a pick. This is explained by the fact that seeds of varieties of open ground and folk selection are usually used for sowing, which are not sufficiently resistant to viral diseases, especially to the tobacco mosaic virus.

When transplanted into pots, seedlings often break off small roots and infection can penetrate into the wounds of healthy plants. In addition, low-growing varieties do not outgrow and remain compact until the end of planting in a permanent place, i.e. low (15-18 cm). Sowing of seeds is carried out from March 1 to March 25 in cups or pots 10x10 cm in size.

They are filled with a soil mixture and watered with a warm (35 -40 ° C) solution: 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer is diluted in 10 liters of water. Then, in each cup, in the center, two holes are made 1 cm deep, 1 seed is placed in each and covered with soil mixture.

Such sowing without picking is carried out only for low-growing varieties for open ground in order to protect seedlings from viral diseases. The sown pots are placed in a box, put in a warm (22 - 25 ° C) bright place and carefully monitor the seedlings, which should appear after 6 - 7 days. As soon as the seedlings appear, the pots are rearranged one by one on a bright sunny window sill with a temperature of 14-16 ° C during the day and 12 -14 ° C at night.

When lowering the temperature (opening the vents and window frames), it is necessary to ensure that the seedlings do not stand in a draft. Such a cool daily regimen will prevent the seedlings from stretching and help the roots develop better.

Then the temperature is gradually raised during the day to 18-22°C, and at night to 15-17°C. After 5-6 days after germination, a weaker plant is removed from the pot, and a strong one is left. Care for seedlings - an extremely crucial moment.

Before planting in the garden, seedlings grow 55 - 60 days. Water moderately with water, at the beginning of growth 1 time per week, 0.5 cups per plant. When 3 - 5 true leaves are formed, water a glass per plant. Every 10 - 12 days, the seedlings are fed.

The first time - 20 days after germination with a solution of nitrophoska (1 tablespoon is diluted in 10 liters of water), spending 0.5 cups per 2 plants. The second time they are fed 10 days after the first feeding.

2 tablespoons of organo-mineral fertilizer are diluted in 10 liters of water, spending 1 glass of solution per plant. The third top dressing (last) is carried out a week before planting seedlings in open ground.

2 tablespoons of superphosphate are diluted in 10 liters of water (superphosphate is insisted in warm water for three days before top dressing), everything is well stirred and the seedlings are watered. It is necessary to constantly harden the seedlings with a low temperature. Starting from April, seedlings can be taken out to the balcony, veranda or left near the open window frames at an air temperature not lower than 10°C.

The first hardening for three days is carried out in the shade, as it is necessary to gradually accustom the plant to full illumination in the open air. If the seedlings are taken out on the first day in sunny weather, burns may occur from direct sunlight. In the future, the seedlings are not shaded. Transshipment of tomato seedlings. © Steve Albert When hardening seedlings, make sure that the soil in the pots is moist, not dry, otherwise wilting and yellowing of the leaves are possible. By the time of planting in the beds in open ground, the plants should be strong, not stretched, leafy (with 7-10 leaves) .

Planting seedlings in a permanent place

In open ground, a sunny place, protected from cold winds, is allocated for planting tomatoes. Unsuitable for tomatoes are low, damp areas, with close standing ground water that create unfavourable conditions for the root system of plants.

The best predecessors for tomatoes are legumes, root crops, green ones. To avoid infection with late blight, you can not plant tomatoes after potatoes and tomatoes. Preferred soils are loamy with the addition of organic and mineral fertilizers. Prepare the soil in advance at the place of planting tomatoes. © AndrewReds for tomatoes are prepared 5 - 6 days before planting. Before digging the soil, it must be treated with a hot (70 - 80 ° C) solution blue vitriol or copper chloride.

In 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of one or the other. The consumption of the solution is up to 1 - 1.5 l per 1 m?. After that, on clay and su clay soils pour organic and mineral fertilizers - 3 - 4 kg of manure humus, peat and old sawdust, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, potassium sulfate or 1 cup of wood ash per 1 m?.

Then the bed is dug up to a depth of 25 - 30 cm, leveled, watered with warm water (40 -50 ° C). Holes are made, watered before planting seedlings with an antibacterial drug. Seedlings are planted in a permanent place in the first and second decades of May.

Landing is done in cloudy weather in the morning, in sunny weather in the afternoon. At the time of planting, seedlings should be fresh, even a slight wilting of plants retards their growth, leads to partial fall of the very first flowers and loss of an early harvest. Tomatoes are planted in the first and second decades of May. © CarlaSeedlings are planted vertically, only a soil pot is deepened into the soil.

The stem remains covered by soil, and only after 15 days the plants are planted to a stem height of up to 12 cm. Seedlings are planted in 2 rows. For medium-sized varieties (60 - 70 cm), the row spacing should be 50 cm, and the distance in the rows between plants should be 40 - 45 cm.

For undersized (standard) varieties, the aisles are made 40-50 cm wide, and the distance in the row between plants is 40 cm. Immediately put pegs 50 cm high for undersized and 80 cm for medium-sized plants, but the greatest effect is achieved when the plant is tied to arcs and to a stretched wire using synthetic twine to a height of 1 - 1.2 m. As a result, the plant is better illuminated, ventilated and less sick.

Until the plants take root, they are not watered for 10 days after planting. After planting, if light frosts are expected, tomato plants need additional shelter, especially at night. After planting the seedlings, the bed is covered with a transparent film until the onset of warm weather (until June 5 - 10), then the film is not removed, but holes 10 - 12 cm in diameter are made on it throughout the film and left for the whole summer. As a result, an early harvest is obtained, the plants are saved from phytophthora infection. If necessary, seedlings can be tied up. © Andrew

Formation of tomato plants

Plants are shaped so that they can produce 5 - 6 fruit clusters. When the plants are formed into one stem, all lateral shoots (stepchildren) that form in the axil of each leaf are removed on the main stem, and 5-6 fruit clusters are left on the main shoot.

A pinch is made above the last (upper) flower brush, leaving 2-3 leaves on it. With a two-stem form, a stepson is left growing under the first flower brush. At the same time, 4 fruit brushes are left on the main stem and the top is pinched, leaving 3 leaves, and 3 fruit brushes are left on the stepson and also pinched, leaving 2-3 leaves. © Andrew When forming a three-stem form, 2 - 3 fruit clusters are left on the main stem.

On the two lower stepchildren, 2 fruit brushes are left and a pinch is made so that there are 2–3 leaves above the upper fruit brushes. In pinched and pinched plants, nutrients go to the formation and filling of fruits, from which their size increases and ripening occurs earlier. On the formed bush, in addition to five or six fruit brushes, there should be at least 30 - 35 leaves.

First root dressing do 3 weeks after planting: dilute 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water, consumption - 0.5 liters of solution for each plant. At the beginning of the blooming of the second flower brush, second root dressing : dilute 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate or potassium chloride in 10 liters of water, or take 1 tablespoon of organo-mineral fertilizer per 10 liters of water, consumption - 1 liter of solution per plant.

Third root dressing do during the blooming of the third flower brush: in 10 liters of water, dilute 1 tablespoon of universal liquid fertilizer and nitrophoska, consumption - 5 liters per 1 m2. Fourth top dressing carried out 12 days after the third: 1 tablespoon of superphosphate is diluted in 10 liters of water (consumption - 10 liters per 1 m?) Or universal liquid fertilizer is used (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), consumption - 5 liters of solution per 1 m? .Sometimes the composition of top dressing depends not only on the phase of plant development, but also on the weather: in cloudy weather, increase the dose of potassium sulfate to 1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water, and in sunny weather, the dose of urea is 2 tablespoons for the same amount of water, spending at this is 5 liters of solution per 1 m2. Weakly leafy and stunted plants need to be done foliar top dressing, that is, sprinkle the leaves with the following solution: dilute 1 tablespoon of urea in 10 liters of water. The best temperature for normal growth and fruiting of tomatoes is 20 - 25 ° C at night. Plants are watered abundantly, in sunny weather after 6 days, in cloudy weather after 7-8 days at the rate of 10 -20 liters per 1 m?, depending on the air temperature.

After watering, the bed is sprinkled with sifted peat or compost with a layer of 1-2 cm. This does not form a crust on top, moisture is retained in the soil and evaporation does not occur, which is harmful to the plant, especially in the flowering phase.

Excess moisture with a lack of heat leads to the death of the root system. Tomato in open ground. © GinaIn open ground, it is better to water in the afternoon to avoid excessive loss of water to evaporation. You can often notice shedding of flowers. This is a sign of a lack of moisture or a decrease in temperature.

Plants need to be sprinkled with a solution of boron (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water), spending 1 liter per 1 m?. The timing of watering can also be determined by the appearance of the plants - changing the color of the leaves to dark green and binding them on hot days. In such cases, the plants are watered in 2-3 doses after a short period of time to gradually moisten the soil. In order for the fertilizers applied with irrigation to penetrate deeper, the soil between the rows is pierced with a pitchfork to the full depth of the horns.

If the soil on the site is wet, as well as a lot of precipitation, watering is not carried out (fertilizers are applied in dry form). spoon under the plant). July and August - the time of ripening and harvesting. In caring for tomatoes, the main thing is to speed up the ripening of the fruit that has set and protect them from rotting.

It is necessary to continue to remove newly emerging stepchildren, extra leaves, pinch the tops of all fruit-bearing bushes, remove flower brushes on which the fruits no longer have time to form. In low-growing varieties, the brushes with fruits should be turned towards the sun.

It is also not bad during this period (from August 15), in addition to all the main dressings, to additionally feed the tomatoes with the following solution: dilute 1 teaspoon of urea, superphosphate and potassium sulfate or 2 tablespoons of nitrophoska in 10 liters of water, spending 0.5 liters of solution per plant. The period from setting to reddening of the fruit in early ripening varieties lasts 40-50 days. If overripe fruits are left on plants, then the total yield decreases, and vice versa, if unripe (brown) fruits are regularly harvested, then the total yield increases significantly.

How to grow TOMATOES in open ground. Top dressing. Mulching. Pasynkovanie

Red fruits can be stored at a temperature of 5 - 10 ° C for 40 - 50 days, while air humidity should be at least 80%. Tomato fruits ripen on a branch. © gardenfrisk It is most advisable to remove all formed fruits from the bushes when they are brown, i.e. beginning to turn white, and lay them for maturation. This simple technique speeds up the pouring of the green fruits remaining on the bush.

Before laying for ripening, the fruits must be warmed up to protect them from blackening. This is done as follows: first, the tomatoes are dipped for 2 minutes in hot water (60 - 65 ° C), then in cold water, then rubbed soft cloth, then stacked.

OKTYABRINA GANICHKINA (garden)

To speed up the ripening process, it is carried out indoors at a temperature of 18 -20 ° C. The fruits are placed in small boxes in 2 - 3 layers, removing the pedicels. Some red tomatoes are added to the boxes.

Top dressing of tomatoes should be carried out in several stages. When preparing a site for planting tomatoes in early spring, digging up the ground, you need to add humus at the rate of 16 kg per sq.m.

Feeding scheme

Regular feeding of tomatoes is necessary for two reasons:

showers and melt water thoroughly wash out potassium and nitrogen from the soil; all types of tomatoes are intensive crops and require a lot of minerals.

As the tomatoes grow and ripen, they should be fed according to the following scheme:

2-3 weeks after landing. Further, temporarily do not feed the culture, waiting for the strengthening of the fruit that has set; resume fertilizing after the 2nd flower brush appears; after the 3rd flower brush has blossomed; after 12 days. The main emphasis in top dressing is on the root, since more fertilizer is always applied through the soil.

Choice of finished fertilizer

The distribution of minerals in the soil occurs evenly. Nitroammophoska is diluted in the amount of 2 matchboxes of fertilizer per bucket of water. Diammophos is also used.

Many gardeners believe that vermicompost is considered the most effective means of feeding, the use of which in the amount of 1 cup for each bush of a plant at any stage of growth can increase yields by 30%.

WATERING tomatoes + FEEDING with ash. How to water TOMATOES in a GREENHOUSE

Fertilizers of own preparation

The filtered solution is mixed with water for irrigation in a ratio of 1:10.3. To eliminate calcium deficiency in the soil, eggshells containing calcium and magnesium are used.

For a more effective effect, manure is mixed with peat and the soil is mulched with this composition. When small fruits appear, many gardeners often use diluted chicken manure, sometimes with the addition of urea. This must be done very carefully, otherwise there is a risk of burning the roots of plants. To do this, you need to water the solution at some distance from the plants, about 15 centimeters. Gardeners also use potassium permanganate in the form of a weak solution, which is both a fertilizer and a protective agent against diseases.

Tomatoes Early planting of tomato seedlings in open ground

Foliar plant nutrition

Additional foliar feeding is used to stimulate the plant's defenses. Good results are obtained by spraying with the New Ideal preparation, which is carried out once a week.

Autumn and spring preparation

In the greenhouse, the soil for tomatoes must be prepared in the fall. If such autumn preparation is carried out in a timely and correct manner, then the soil will warm up quite well and quickly by mid-May.

So, in a few words, how to prepare the soil in greenhouses for tomatoes: During the autumn digging, if the soil is not very fertile, apply organic fertilizers such as humus or rotted manure. Mulch that has served the season can serve as an organic fertilizer. During autumn and winter, it will completely decompose and fertilize the soil in the greenhouse well.

For 1 m2 on unfertilized and poor soils with high acidity, 600-800 g dolomite flour, or lime, as well as 6-8 kg any organic fertilizer such as bird droppings, compost or manure. If the soils are well fertilized, then they are simply dug up.

During the spring digging of the soil in greenhouses from a metal profile on "rich" soils, approximately 3 kg of humus or rotted manure, sawdust per m2. If the soil is "poor", then you need to make about 7 kg of humus, or manure and 1 cup of peat or wood ash per m2.

Important: if crops were grown in the greenhouse in the previous season, under which a large amount of fertilizer was applied, namely organic, then the introduction of humus should be abandoned. It must be remembered that excessive application of organic fertilizers for tomatoes in a greenhouse will contribute to the formation of a large number of leaves, which will impair fruit set and development.

Before planting tomato seedlings in the ground, experienced gardeners recommend shedding the soil with a pink solution of potassium permanganate (potassium permanganate). To prepare such a solution, you need to take 1g of potassium permanganate and dissolve in 10 liters of hot water, the temperature of which should be not lower than 600C. You can also use any prophylactic preparation, diluting it in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions on the package. In the event that you have loamy or clay soils in the greenhouse, then for every 1 m2, immediately before landing, you need to make another 1 tbsp. a spoonful of potassium sulfate and parestol spoons of any nitrogen fertilizers and a glass of any deoxidizer, for example, dolomite flour or ash. Then carefully dig the soil.

When and how to feed tomatoes?

In the event that there is not enough potassium in the soil of the greenhouse, then the likelihood that the crop will be rich is unlikely. If you apply nitrogen-containing fertilizers for tomatoes in a greenhouse, then the situation with potassium starvation can only get worse. In order to avoid various mistakes in the process of fertilizing, it is best to use a standard feeding scheme during the growth and development of tomatoes.

How to organize fertilizing and fertilizing tomatoes in a greenhouse

Many books, articles and notes have been written about how to fertilize tomatoes in a greenhouse (see Fertilizing tomatoes in a greenhouse, what fertilizers and when to use). All the many methods that describe fertilization can be divided into three groups:

using only mineral fertilizers; using only organic fertilizers; combined method, when both organic and mineral fertilizers are applied.

Let us first consider the scheme for applying mineral fertilizers, which takes into account all the needs of tomatoes at different stages of development.

20 days after transplanting seedlings into a greenhouse to a permanent place, you need to carry out the first top dressing, dissolving 1 tbsp in 10 liters of water. a spoonful of nitrophoska. The second fertilization is carried out 10 days after the first feeding. For her, dissolve 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate in 10 liters of water. 12 days after the second top dressing, top dressing is carried out with a solution of 2 tbsp. spoons of wood ash and 1 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate in 10 liters of water.

For each plant you need to use 1 liter of working solution.There is another scheme for fertilizing tomatoes in a greenhouse using organic fertilizers. For top dressing, rotted manure or slurry is used, which are diluted in a ratio of 1:100 (1 kg of manure per 10 liters of water), or any bird droppings. It is taken 200-250 g per 10 liters of water.

All these solutions must be insisted for at least a day, or maybe two or three, after which they are watered at the rate of 2-3 liters per plant. The first feeding with a smaller amount of solution can be carried out immediately after planting the seedlings in the greenhouse. In the future, top dressing is carried out regularly, every 10-15 days. After the tomato plants are fed, the soil under them must be mulched with processed sawdust. To do this, 200 g of urea is dissolved in a bucket.

Three buckets of sawdust, preferably fresh, are poured with this solution. Mulch prevents the evaporation of moisture from the soil, and also inhibits and inhibits the development of weeds. The soil covered with mulch retains heat well at night, saving the plant's roots from hypothermia.

Foliar top dressing

An important role in the growth and development of plants is also played by foliar feeding, during which leaves and stems are sprayed with a weak nutrient solution of fertilizers, spraying it. use foliar top dressing of 1 teaspoon of superphosphate dissolved in 10 liters of water. In the event that flowers in tomatoes crumble due to heat, since pollination has not occurred, you can carry out foliar top dressing with a solution of boric acid, taking 5 g (1 teaspoon) per 10 liters of water, or use special preparations. Foliar top dressing is carried out once a month, in the evening, or on a cloudy, not sunny day.

Tomatoes are a fairly demanding vegetable crop. This plant actively takes nitrogen, potassium, phosphorus and other minerals from the soil.

It delays fruiting, there is a high probability of plant diseases. Thus, in order to get a good crop of tomatoes, you need to create all the necessary conditions. To do this, plant tomatoes in soil prepared in advance and fed with mineral organics. The soil enriched with organic materials and biofertilizers is the key to a rich harvest of tomatoes.

Recently, summer residents are trying to abandon chemical, artificial fertilizers, preferring natural top dressing. How to fertilize tomatoes, everyone chooses for himself, as there are many options.

Fertilizer methods for tomatoes

Yeast is one of the best plant growth stimulants. How to feed tomatoes? The most common feeding methods are: bird droppings, ash, yeast and others. Let's take a closer look at each of them. Yeast.

They are the best plant growth stimulator. Yeast fertilizer recipe: 20 grams of yeast is diluted in 10 liters of water, left for 24 hours, the plants are fertilized with the resulting solution. "Rostmoment" is a ready-made fertilizer, which is produced on the basis of yeast. It is also suitable for planting tomatoes.

Ash is added before planting seedlings in each well. To do this, take 3 tablespoons of ash and mix it with the soil.

To enrich the soil, 3 cups of ash per 1 square meter is required. Fertilizing the soil when planting tomatoes plays a key role in the growth of fruits. Chicken manure is a fairly valuable fertilizer. Its chemical composition is ahead of manure, and the nutrients are contained in a fairly light form.

The concentration of the solution is prepared depending on the stage at which the tomatoes grow. You can prepare the following composition: 100 g of fresh bird droppings are added to 10 liters of water, infused for 24 hours and the plants are watered. Top dressing with manure with bedding is applied during tillage, in the ratio of 6 kg of fertilizer per 1 sq. m. Chicken manure is not a universal fertilizer, therefore, in addition to it, it is necessary to add other top dressing to the soil, such as ammonium nitrate, superphosphate. For a good result, it is not necessary to use expensive fertilizers, the main thing is not to exceed the dosage and apply them to the soil in time. Nitrophoska and other complex fertilizers are applied when seedlings of tomatoes are 0.5 teaspoons per 1 liter of water. Planting tomatoes begins with the use of superphosphate, 1 tablespoon per well. 5 days after planting, you can water the tomatoes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Stages of growing tomatoes in the garden

in the fall, when digging the soil, 4 kg is applied per 1 square m of humus or compost; in the spring, it is necessary to fill the soil with mineral fertilizers: 80 g per 1 square m of superphosphate and 20 g per 1 square m of potassium chloride; after planting seedlings in 10-15 days, they plan the first top dressing , and the second - already at the beginning of fruit formation; in order for the fruits to set sooner, use a 0.5% solution of superphosphate or a solution of boric acid. The solution that has settled is drained and sprayed with tomatoes.

Thus, fertilizing the soil when planting tomatoes plays a key role in the growth of future fruits. To date, there are a large number of different fertilizers that can improve the quality of fruits, the main thing is to follow the exact instructions for the dosage and time of applying them to the soil. With the help of top dressing, you can grow an excellent crop of tomatoes on the soil, which is not particularly fertile.

Tomatoes can be called favorites in the beds of many garden owners. Along with its popularity, this vegetable is very demanding, especially when it comes to nutrients for its growth and development, without which a rich and healthy harvest is simply impossible.

During their growth period, tomatoes, like no other, "devour" nutrients at a tremendous rate, and they simply may not be enough. Therefore, it is important to know how to fertilize tomatoes after planting in the ground, is there folk remedies Is it possible to use yeast.

Fertilization methods

The opinion that proper fit tomatoes in the ground or in a greenhouse, as well as preliminary soil preparation and fertilization - this is the only guarantee of a rich harvest, erroneously. More precisely, all this, of course, must be taken into account and carried out, but it is also important not to forget to take care of the plant and planting, including not to forget about fertilizer.

There are three options after landing in the ground:

Use of mineral fertilizers;
Use of organic fertilizers;
Combined method.

The first time to fertilize tomatoes after planting in open ground should be three weeks after planting. For fertilizer, a tablespoon of nitrophoska is used, which must be diluted in a bucket of water.

The second time to fertilize tomatoes should be 10 days after the first fertilization. To do this, you can use a teaspoon of potassium sulfate, which is also diluted in a bucket of water. It will not be superfluous to treat tomatoes with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

After 7 days, the tomatoes should be treated with saltpeter at the rate of 15 grams per bucket of water. And after another 7 days, tomatoes can be fed with ash and superphosphate, explored in a bucket of water.

Important! After planting tomatoes in the ground, it is necessary to apply at least one liter of fertilizer for one plant.

100% organic fertilization

There is another way to fertilize tomatoes after planting in the ground (video). This is the application of only organic fertilizers, which include chicken manure or manure. The first time to fertilize the beds with tomatoes should be directly at the time of planting, and then every 10 days. For fertilizer, one part of chicken manure or manure per bucket of water is used.

After fertilizing tomatoes with organic matter, the beds with the plant must be mulched with urea, which is diluted in water. You can also fill the beds with several buckets of sawdust. This procedure helps to maintain optimal humidity and prevents the growth of weeds. About features.

Yeast top dressing

Another very popular method than fertilizing tomatoes after planting in the ground is the use of yeast. Yeast is used to ensure that seedlings are better rooted in the soil, as well as la abundant flowering. To prepare yeast fertilizer, you need to mix 10 grams of dry yeast with half a liter of ash, half a liter of chicken manure, five tablespoons of sugar, and pour the mixture with a liter of water. To fertilize young tomatoes, you need half a liter of solution per bush, and for adult tomatoes, the dosage will be 2 liters.

Important! Yeast fertilizer should only be applied around the plant, and not under the root. Chicken manure, which is part of the top dressing, can burn the root system of tomatoes.

Folk methods

Folk methods are another good way than to feed the tomatoes after planting in the ground. After all, our ancestors coped without help special means, and their harvest could only be envied.

To prepare fertilizer for tomatoes, one of folk recipes, you need 500 grams of cow or horse cakes, which are bred in ten liters of water. It is necessary to insist on feeding for a week. Therefore, it is better to prepare fertilizer on the same day that the tomatoes were planted in the ground so that they have time to take root. After 7 days, you should collect the infused feed in a half-liter jar and dilute it in half a liter of water. So fertilizer should be watered each plant under the root.

Still, you can use this recipe to feed the tomatoes after planting in open ground: pour one part of the cut grass for mulching with boiling water in a liter bucket, leave for 7 days. Then, the fertilizer is diluted with water again, after which it is ready for use.

Those tomatoes that develop poorly can also be mulched with potato peel, bastyl or cabbage petioles. Waste should simply be laid under the root of the plant, decomposing, they release carbon dioxide, which helps weak tomatoes to get stronger.

You can choose any means than to fertilize, depending on the availability of certain components. But it is strictly necessary to carry out this procedure, otherwise there will not be a good and healthy harvest, and as the worst option, tomatoes can simply die.

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