The chemical composition of the spent mushroom block from the husk. How to use spent mushroom compost? pet food

1. How to make a mushroom block for growing oyster mushrooms yourself?

Here we will describe the easiest way to make a block (it is not suitable for industrial production) To prepare a mushroom block, you will first need to prepare the substrate. The substrate can be prepared from straw, hay, husks of seeds, shavings, sawdust. See what you have nearby in abundance. To begin with, it is necessary to pasteurize the material you have, before pasteurization it is desirable to grind the straw and hay. With husks, shavings, sawdust, you do not need to do anything first. Take any container you have for the desired volume of the substrate, fill in the material that you have chosen and fill it with water, heat it up to a temperature of 80-100 degrees Celsius, pasteurize for 2 hours. If necessary, place a weight on the surface. The need to add lime during pasteurization depends on the Ph of the water, if Ph is about 7.5, no need to add lime, below - add lime at the rate of 50 grams per 10 kg of substrate. (Various bioadditives offered by some stores are complete nonsense, this is lime, chalk, gypsum, don't waste your money! buy lime at any garden store). Next, the substrate must be transferred to any surface with holes so that excess moisture can drain, it can be a vegetable box, mesh, etc. In all actions, try to keep cleanliness as much as possible, pre-treat the working surfaces with a sprayer, either with a rag with a solution of whiteness, or with a solution of water with hydrogen peroxide.

Let's move on to inoculation, that is, to directly filling the plastic bag with the substrate and mycelium. Make sure that there is no air left inside, tightly seal the bag! Tie with a rope, or pack with tape. We make 5-6 slits in a checkerboard pattern 3-4 cm long. We lay the blocks for incubation, for the first 2-3 days it is advisable to lay them with the slits down, so that the excess moisture is completely drained

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2. How to incubate and expel mushrooms from a block made or purchased from the site The incubation period takes place in a dark place at a temperature of 18-24 degrees Celsius, it is advisable to leave a distance between the blocks and not pile on each other. The incubation period lasts from 14 to 25 days. At the end of incubation, the block will become completely white, that is, it will become overgrown with mycelium!

The fruiting period occurs in a dimly lit or lighted place (3 hours a day is enough) at temperatures from 8 to 20 degrees. After 7 days, primordia will appear, after another 5-6 days, the first crop can be harvested, then after another 5-7 days, primordia are formed again, and this can be up to 8. Mushrooms must be torn off the root, not cut!

I lost my cucumber seedlings. Well, everyone remembers what spring was like. What just did not freeze. Only the Chinese were left. But you need ordinary cucumbers?! Necessary. There is a greenhouse farm nearby at the state farm, there are always seedlings of "German". I went. And they have an innovation - they began to grow oyster mushrooms.

Aha! So at the end of the summer it will be possible to buy mining bags in the neighborhood! Asked - the answer was yes. Well, about three weeks ago they moved. On NIVE. The back seat is always removed, so you can cram a decent volume.

When I bought seedlings, I asked about working off. The price was called ridiculous - 10 rubles. a piece. We arrived for working off - the staff changed, but I remember about that price - I’m talking about it (I looked on the Internet - there are 20-25 rubles). We agreed on the old price. They crammed it into the NIVA so that you can’t look in the rear mirror - up to the ceiling. They brought 33 bags and went again - 38 bags.

I made bags in the shed. A week later I collected ... Well, I don’t remember how much I collected, but I only froze boiled three liter milk packets. And she went to Moscow. I got stuck there for a week.
I return - and tama ... Tama guard! So grown!

I collected four containers, I already cleaned and welded one

I’ll put out large “lopuchendria” and rough legs with a fried onion, crank it in a meat grinder and freeze it in portions - stuffing for pies, make gravy for potato cutlets, just mushroom caviar ...

And I make portions very simply, half a liter. I put a plastic bag into liter (cardboard) milk bags, fill up to half of the bag, twist the plastic bag, put the second one - it also contains mushrooms to the top of the bag, twist and put the bags in the freezer - just the height of the box freezers.

Once again, or even two mushrooms will grow until the bags are scattered in the beds. And I think - what will be in the beds? I remember Masha (ruabiha 10) wrote that mushrooms grew in the beds - "two in one" turned out

Composition: total nitrogen - N total. 0.71-0.86

Ash- 21.16 K-1.18 P- 0.08 Ca-0.16 Mg-0.19

Application:

A) mulching

B) as a biological fertilizer, baking powder

B) is food for soil bacteria

D) improves soil aeration

E) fresh, can be a feed additive (for ruminants)

E) moisture-saving component

1. Spent mushroom blocksare used secondarily to solve various practical problems. They are useful as an additive to animal feed, as a fertilizer.

-Used mushroom blocks and their application

- We list the options for the use of these wastes in agriculture:

– Fertilizer with a sufficiently high content of nitrogen components. It should be noted that in this case, components of natural origin are used, harmless, environmentally friendly.

- If you have to fight weeds, used mushroom blocks useful as a material for mulching. Having made a surface layer of several centimeters from them, it will not be difficult to slow down the growth of unnecessary plants. On the other hand, if the summer is hot, such insulation will prevent excessive overheating of the soil.
– Used mushroom blocks have high porosity, so they are used to protect the root systems of plants in the winter. In particular, by covering rose bushes, it will be possible to prevent the harmful effects of severe frosts. The thickness of such a layer is selected taking into account certain

climatic conditions.

- Good results can be obtained if used mushroom blocks apply to obtain biohumus. After the natural processes of processing such raw materials by the earthworm, the value of biologically active substances increases. They are better absorbed by plants, which allows you to count on a good harvest. Such an organic fertilizer does not contain questionable ingredients, like some chemical analogues. It retains its beneficial properties after a single application to the soil for up to five years.
– Used mushroom blocks can be added to food for pets. Such supplements contain the nutritional proteins necessary for their normal development.

Recently, a lot has been written about soil mulching. However, mulch is still poorly used in the beds of our summer residents. The habit of cleaning everything to the last blade of grass, so that the neighbor will envy, will not leave our summer residents. So vegetables grow in the country in the soil, which every year more and more weathers and becomes poorer.

I bring to your attention a story about the mulch of an American vegetable grower. In the USA, mulch has been used for a very long time, you can buy mulching materials from them in containers of various capacities: from a bag to a truck body.

Here is what an American wrote about mulch.

Mulch is a protective layer that is placed on the soil. There are different types of mulch for the purpose, from creating ornamental paths to weed control.

There are many varieties of garden mulch. Mulch is chosen based on the purposes and methods of its application. There are many types of organic mulch. For example, sawdust or cut grass. Gravel and polyethylene are not organic, but organic gardeners put gravel and polyethylene to good use in the organic garden.

When to mulch?

Fall is the best time to apply mulch. Mulch keeps the soil warm in winter, helping perennial crops overwinter. In addition, mulch protects the soil from weathering and erosion. In the spring, to warm up the soil as soon as possible, the mulch must be moved. But planted plants should be mulched immediately to retain moisture in the soil.

Opponents of digging and adherents of organic vegetable growing in high beds can use mulch all the time. And it gradually rots, enriching the soil. In areas where nothing is growing yet, it is very useful to spread mulch to preserve soil and discourage weeds. Permanent bark or gravel mulch can be placed near shrubs, paths, and ornamental trees.

How can different garden mulches improve your organic garden?

Mulch:
- gives attractiveness to the garden,
- suppresses weeds, does not allow weed seeds to spread - a layer of 5-7 centimeters reduces the growth of weeds several times,
- protects the soil from trampling and compaction,
- protects the soil from erosion and erosion by rains,
- reduces water loss and retains moisture in the soil,
- protects plant roots from overheating,
- in winter, it retains the heat of the soil for earlier germination of plants,
- does not allow berries and vegetables to come into contact with the soil, which protects them from rot,
- reduces harm from snails and slugs,
- organic mulch, rotting, fertilizes the soil and improves its composition,
- stimulates the activity of earthworms, which improve drainage and soil quality.

I'll tell you a story from personal experience: about ten years ago, my husband and I grew oyster mushrooms on bags stuffed with sunflower husks. At the company where we bought the mycelium, we were convinced that the spent husk after mushrooms is an excellent fertilizer and mulch for garden beds. In full confidence that this is the way it is, we scattered the used husk over the beds, but we were not stingy, there was plenty of good. And they covered the feet of the peppers and covered the strawberries, and on other beds with vegetables. A few days later, I noticed that everything in the garden froze. Neither weeds grow, nor vegetables, even strawberries have ceased to put forward mustaches. Only tomatoes, as before, grew full of health. That's when, in fright, I began to look in the literature for information on whether sunflower husks can be used as mulch. And I found out this (I don’t remember verbatim, but the meaning is): sawdust, husks, straw are organic residues with a high content of cellulose and have a low content of nutrients, since cellulose itself contains nothing but oxygen, carbon and hydrogen. But at the end of the decomposition process, these organic residues, turning into biohumus, give plants all the nutrients a hundredfold in a form more convenient for plants.

I decided to remove the husks from the ridges into a compost heap, for rotting, but there were so many earthworms under it, even though you rowed with a bucket and the clay soil, into which you couldn’t drive a shovel in summer, became damp and loose. So the hand did not rise to remove the husk from the beds. I had to pour 1 matchbox with an 8 liter watering can of water with azophoska solution, and all the plants immediately perked up, then every ten days I watered it with infusions of mullein, nettle and bird droppings, and infusion of ash. In short, the harvest was not damaged, but the next year there was no need to dig beds, the earth was like fluff. Here's an interesting experience I had. So, if you urgently need mulch, there is fresh sawdust (husk, straw), and there is no time to prepare rotten sawdust (husk, straw) from them, then you can do this: water the soil well in the beds, sprinkle nitrogen-phosphorus - potash fertilizer without exceeding the norm according to the instructions and mulch the bed with fresh sawdust (husk, straw). Just do not forget to watch the plants, and with their appearance they will definitely tell you what substances they lack.

Reuse and disposal of oyster mushroom blocks is very diverse. Throwing them in a landfill is the worst option. Left in the film, they rot, midges and larvae start up in them. But polyethylene does not rot. The result is a mess that pollutes the environment.

Here are the main processing methods:

Fertilizers from waste blocks.

If you want to earn extra, master the production of vermicompost.

Biohumus is a high-quality natural top dressing. Suitable for all types of cultivated crops, improves soil structure and increases the content of nutrients - exactly those that plants need, but are not processed by oyster mushrooms.

The easiest option is to dig several holes in order to gradually fill and empty them. Depending on the volume of biomass, determine the parameters of the recess and throw off the mining without a film there, tamping it not too tightly.

Periodically, the mass is watered, the wet is converted into fertilizer faster. If you have hydrothermia, use water after steaming vegetable raw materials. If you add lime to the raw material for steaming, check the alkalinity of the drained liquid. Perhaps in your region the soil is already calcareous, then it is better not to use this water.

It is advisable to cover the pit from above with polyethylene or tarpaulin so that the top layer does not dry out. The compost is overripe and decomposed by soil microorganisms and worms. Six months later, bio-fertilizer will be obtained. Straw in this case splits up to a homogeneous greasy brown substance similar to humus to the touch. The husk is worse, cow, goat or horse manure, chicken droppings are added in layers to it. You can also make slurry from the litter and periodically water the pits from above.

During decay, the mass warms up and even if there was some kind of infection, it will disappear.

You can take up the production of biohumus seriously: with the help of prospector worms, accustomed to processing the plant mixture. To do this, heaps are doused with slurry from chicken manure and previously obtained humus.

This is a more expensive method, but it also gives more profit: in addition to biohumus, families of worms can be obtained and sold. A business needs warm rooms to keep the worms from freezing in the winter, and adherence to certain composting rules. As a rule, firms selling worms advise on the technology of compost production and keeping worms.

Mulch from oyster mushroom blocks

In addition to fertilizers, waste material is used as mulch under trees and shrubs. Free from polyethylene and dry the mass, and then spread it under plants or between rows. When dried, microorganisms, molds (which love a humid environment) and mycelium die, so oyster mushrooms will not grow from dried straw or husks laid out in the garden. In the future, when watering, the mulch will get wet and gradually rot, but soil microorganisms multiply there, which do not pose a danger to plants. They process the mushroom protein and cellulose of the plant residue of the husk or straw, thereby improving the structure and fertility of the soil. This mulch is suitable for all types of plants.

pet food

As a feed, working off oyster mushrooms is not realistic to use. If the mixture is straw, then of course you can try. There are authors who claim that there is a lot of protein in such waste. But we must take into account that this is a mushroom protein, and in order for the animals to eat such food, they must be accustomed to it from childhood. In any case, this mixture should take up no more than 10% of the diet and be absolutely white, without traces of green or black mold, without signs of decay.

Will chickens peck at waste? Most likely - yes, they like to shovel garbage. Perhaps they will find larvae, the remains of grains, some pebbles. But it is impossible to consider the spent substrate as significant in the bird's diet.

Harvest oyster mushrooms from old bags

If everything is piled up at the enterprise, then in the spring we see such a picture, beautiful fleshy druze, photo on the right.

After freezing, the mycelium is activated - if the nutrients in the straw or husk still remain, then new hyphae will necessarily germinate to the perforations and fruiting begins.

Outdoor grown oyster mushrooms are heavy and fleshy. The clusters contain 5-6 mushrooms, but the diameter of the caps is larger than when grown indoors. Young dense mushrooms can be 10-15 cm in size. Regardless of the strain, the color of the cap is light - a shade of coffee with milk, if there is a lot of sun. And dark brown, sometimes with a gray tint, if the growth fell on cloudy days.

If the briquettes are heavy, firmly knocked down and white inside, then they are placed in the shade and watered around the earth - they will certainly still bear fruit.

If the contents of the bags are loose but not dehydrated, try to resuscitate them:

untie the bag, squeeze the substrate - as if tamping it down. Then squeeze out the air, collecting the loose film in the "tail" and tie it with a rope.

The package will then be of a smaller height, more compact, and will give another 200-300 grams of crop.

Mushroom briquettes as fuel

If after two or three harvests the substrate is dry and light, it can be dried and used as fuel. It is desirable to dry under a canopy, since even in the summer after the rain, all the drying work goes down the drain. It is better to remove the film from the briquettes during drying, but if the contents fall apart, then the polyethylene should be cut lengthwise in five to six places, for better weathering. By themselves, dry straw and husks do not burn very well, first you need to melt and warm the boiler with firewood, then throw in dried briquettes. I had a 65 kW solid fuel boiler. We threw 3-4 straw blocks at the same time on hot coals from firewood, and more firewood was laid on top. Half an hour later, the same components were again thrown in, in the same proportion.

The disadvantage is that it often needs to be thrown up, it burns out quickly, there is a lot of soot. A couple of times in the middle of winter they chose warm days, stopped the boiler and cleaned it of soot. I think this is a mushroom protein and organic compounds of straw, not completely burning down, give such a resinous soot. They cleaned it with iron stacks, like a hoe, only straight in relation to the handle, like a spatula.

Mycelium from the substrate

The only thing that is impossible is to use spent blocks instead of mycelium. If you steam the plant mixture for new batches and put pieces of the old substrate mixed with fresh in layers in bags, the mycelium will NOT germinate in the freshly processed plant mass and you will NOT get a crop.

If you are interested in conducting an experiment, read the last section Substrate mycelium.