Propagation of lilac cuttings in spring. Propagation of varietal lilac Cuttings of lilac with green cuttings

What gardener does not dream of propagating a fragrant lilac bush? It can be propagated in several ways: by grafting, layering, cuttings. Therefore, a grafted plant and a rooted plant are distinguished. How to propagate lilac? You can make this choice after reading our article. But back to our topic. Own-rooted lilac is a more prosperous breeding option, it lives much longer, is not burdened with care in terms of removing young shoots, and besides, bushes grown by cuttings give great material landing in the future. This is especially true for hedges. But consider the reproduction of lilac cuttings in more detail.

Selection rules source material for breeding and planting plants:

It all starts with choosing a good mother plant. The bush should be moderately fed with fertilizers, not be cut too much.

It is necessary to choose the right one. Look for thin, not stiff, but green branches.

How to propagate lilac correctly? Growing in a greenhouse

The process of rooting lilac cuttings is very time consuming. In conventional greenhouses and greenhouses, the number of rooted cuttings does not exceed 30 - 50%. Properly Prepared planting material. The cuttings should have an oblique lower cut, located exactly under the node. It is not necessary to cut off in the internodes - this planting material is weakly rooted, and may not take root at all. Lilac cuttings are cut either during the flowering period or shortly after it. But not later. The length of the cut cuttings should not exceed 15 cm, they are stored under the film until planting. To accelerate root development and increase the proportion of rooted planting material, it should be treated with growth regulators. In this case, you can take the drug heteroauxin (water or alcohol solution). In order for the cuttings to take root, they are placed in a greenhouse or greenhouse, sand is poured onto the soil, with a layer of 2-3 cm.

The temperature is maintained at 25 - 30 C, diffused light is made. When a well-developed root system, lilacs are transplanted to permanent place. It is best to do this from July to September. If planted or in late autumn, then the bush will give almost no growth. Saplings for the winter are covered with peat with fallen leaves or spruce branches. You can dig them in the basement, and plant them in the beds in the spring.

How to propagate lilac? General agrotechnical measures

The agrotechnology of rooting cuttings is suitable for all Hungarian, which is most often propagated by gardeners, is unpretentious, drought-resistant, and also grows successfully with excessive moisture. It reproduces well not only by green and lignified cuttings, but also by seeds. Does not give root shoots. Seeds sprout together, seedlings develop quite quickly: by the second year of life, their height is 50 - 60 cm. By the third year, well-developed and strong plants can bloom, but the main flowering will begin in the fifth year. Often, the Hungarian lilac is used as a rootstock for others. Vaccinations on this type of lilac take root well and are quite durable.

You already know how to propagate lilac, so you can safely breed it.

Species lilacs are propagated by seeds, and seedlings are grown from seeds intended for grafting and for breeding new varieties. The first two years, lilac seedlings grow slowly and need care. They usually bloom in the 5-6th year. Seedlings intended for grafting are suitable for rootstocks 2-3 years after sowing, when they reach the thickness of a pencil.

Just

If the lilac bush forms a shoot, it can be transplanted. This is the most affordable "grandmother's" way of breeding lilacs. Important condition- the mother bush must be own-rooted. In grafted lilacs, the shoots are “wild”, not varietal, and are not suitable for reproduction. You can propagate lilac and layering, both horizontal and vertical.

More difficult

Own-rooted lilacs are obtained by cuttings. It is propagated only by summer, the so-called green cuttings with leaves. Winter (lignified) lilac cuttings practically do not take root. In addition, not all lilacs can be propagated in this way.

For example, the Hungarian lilac and other lilacs from the Hairy section take root well. Common lilac varieties take root differently - some are good, and some practically do not form roots. So, cuttings of many varieties with dark and double pinkish flowers take root quite satisfactorily - "India", "Charles Joly", "Katherine Havemeyer", "Montaigne", "Paul Hariot", etc. Among the white and bluish ones, the cuttings of which take root very badly - "Flora", "Mme Charles Souchet", "Monique Lemoine".

The success of lilac cuttings is also influenced by other factors that we can control, and therefore use to achieve better results.

It is very important to observe the timing of cuttings.

Most right time for this - the period when the shoots end in growth in length. This usually happens during the mass flowering of lilacs.

The age of the mother lilac plant from which cuttings are taken is also important - the result of cuttings is the better, the younger it is.

This is especially important for varieties with low rooting of cuttings. Perfectly rooted cuttings taken from young lilac plants obtained by tissue culture.

Cuttings are prepared from shoots taken in the middle part of the crown, not too thick, but not very thin. Cut them with a sharp knife or razor.

The finished cutting consists of two internodes with three pairs of buds; the lower pair of leaves is usually removed, the upper ones are shortened. The lower cut is placed as close as possible to the lower pair of kidneys, making it slightly oblique. It is useful to treat ready-made cuttings with some drug that stimulates root formation.

For rooting lilac cuttings, a special substrate is needed. It must be clean, moisture-absorbing and breathable, such as a mixture of sand with neutralized peat, coarse perlite, vermiculite, etc. A greenhouse or just a box is filled with a nutrient soil mixture, and a layer of substrate about 5 cm thick is poured on top of it and gently watered. The cuttings are planted vertically, so that the lower buds are completely covered, and pressed with fingers so that they do not fall. After that, the cuttings are sprayed and the greenhouse is covered with a film.

For the rooting of lilacs, air humidity close to 100% is required, but stagnant water is absolutely unacceptable. It can also be sprayed manually with a fine mist sprayer. This should be done several times a day, as the water dries on the leaves of the cuttings. It is desirable to stretch the covering film as close as possible to the cuttings.

The roots of the cuttings appear in 8-12 weeks. By the end of this period, they are increasingly aired and gradually accustomed to normal conditions. It is possible to transplant rooted cuttings from a greenhouse not earlier than next spring, and even better - a year later in the fall. So they get along better. In the first 2–3 years, rooted lilac cuttings mainly develop the root system, and the aerial part grows very slowly. Then the growth rate increases. Such a lilac blooms on average for the 4-5th year.

Professionally

Vaccination - traditional way breeding, suitable for all varieties of lilacs. The best stock is a seedling of the same species. On root shoots, vaccinations do not take root well. In extreme cases, varieties of common lilac can be grafted onto seedlings or rooted cuttings of Hungarian lilac and privet. But such plants need to be transferred to their own roots as soon as possible, and it is most reliable to get layering from them.

In the spring, when sap flow begins at the rootstocks, lilacs can be grafted by any means - both by budding (grafting with a bud-eye), and grafting with a cutting (copulation, behind the bark, etc.). For grafting, cuttings from annual lilac shoots are used, cut before the buds swell, which are stored until grafting on a glacier or in a refrigerator. In summer, they are grafted only by budding, using well-developed axillary buds from the shoots of the current growth for grafting.

Lilac is incredibly beautiful and lush bush, which will decorate any garden and personal plot. In addition, lilac is very pleasantly fragrant, filling the entire space around with a delicate, floral aroma. Many gardeners know the moment when they decide to propagate a tree or bush, and in this case they face certain difficulties, not knowing how to do it right. In this article we will tell you how to properly propagate lilac so that it takes root and blooms the next year.

There are three ways to propagate lilacs, and all of them are vegetative - grafting, using cuttings and layering.

Lilac bushes are also divided into two categories: own-rooted and grafted. Life cycle own-rooted lilacs are much longer (from 25 to 50 years), care is very simple, you do not need to regularly remove root shoots, and in the future there will be a significant advantage - such bushes provide better planting material. However, lilac propagates using cuttings too.

Selection of planting material

Experience has shown that small cuttings take root better, harvested from thin overgrown branches that do not grow vertically, but at an angle to upright growth shoots. But before selecting planting material, you need to make sure the purity and quality of the plant, it must bloom at least once.

It is best not to allow mother plants to grow strongly in height, to keep them low, then it is more convenient to harvest cuttings. Annual pruning of cuttings can weaken the queen cells, therefore, in the process of harvesting the material, the shoots of the current year, which are longer than 20 cm, are cut by 70-80% of the total length. If possible, it is better to give the plants a rest for 1 year.

Mother plants need regular feeding and watering. It is worth noting that excessive amounts of fertilizer, as well as heavy pruning, lead to the formation a large number fat shoots. Green shards from such shoots take root weakly.

Rooting of green lilac cuttings is difficult; in greenhouse conditions, you should not expect results above 30, maximum 50 percent. In the process of harvesting, it is important to cut the cuttings correctly, the cut should be oblique, exactly under the knot. If you cut between the nodes, the cutting will not be able to take root.

Harvesting cuttings occurs during flowering or after its completion. Cut them about 15 cm long, without cutting off the leaves. Before planting the material, it is stored unfolded under plastic wrap.

First, all leaves are removed from the lower node.

Using a sharpened pruner, an oblique cut is made just below the node from which the leaves were removed.

The remaining sheets must be shortened by about half.

We remove the top of the shoot at a right angle.

Preparation of cuttings before planting

In order to increase the likelihood of rooting, it is worth treating green cuttings with a growth regulator, for example, heteroauxin in an aqueous or alcoholic solution.

For the mother method, it is necessary to prepare the mother liquor in advance. You will need 98% ethyl alcohol or acetone, as well as a growth regulator in powder (calculation of 1g per 100 ml of alcohol). Store this solution in the dark glassware about two months. An alcoholic solution is prepared by diluting the mother liquor with alcohol twice.

For lilac, an aqueous solution is used more concentrated than for other plants - 150-200 mg. heteroauxin per 1 liter.

When an alcohol solution is used, the cuttings are dipped into it for only a few seconds, they are kept in an aqueous solution for 16 to 18 hours, after which they are washed with water. Prepared cuttings are planted in greenhouses, or in low greenhouses, which are in partial shade. When planting, you should not use soil mixtures that contain sand, since lilacs are poorly strengthened by roots in them.

Most suitable composition soils: 1/4 coarse-grained perlite, 1/4 high-moor peat and 2/4 low-lying.

The landing site is prepared in this way: pour 10-15 cm of a drainage layer of crushed stone or expanded clay, 15-20 cm of humus or rotted manure, and on top of all this about 5 cm of soil mixture. Then all this is compacted and watered.

The place for planting cuttings is prepared as follows: 10 - 15 centimeters of the drainage layer (crushed stone or expanded clay can be used), 15 - 20 centimeters of humus or rotted manure and on top of it - from 5 to 8 centimeters of soil mixture. All this must be compacted and carefully poured from a watering can.

The process of planting and subsequent care of the cuttings

Pre-prepared cuttings are planted in a greenhouse in rows at a distance of about 10 cm and 5 cm between the cuttings, then water everything abundantly. Next, you need to make a shelter for the cuttings, which is made from polyethylene film and wooden sticks, from which a low frame is made, up to half a meter high.

Then comes the period of lilac rooting, when the cuttings are watered no more than 1 time per week, simultaneously removing fallen leaves. The first roots will appear only after one and a half to two months, and just by this time you can start airing the greenhouse, but only in the evening. Later, you can completely remove the shelter, and in the fall, transplant the cuttings to their permanent place of growth.

If you see that the cuttings are weakly rooted, you can transplant them only in the spring, after wrapping them up for the winter. In the process of transplanting, remember the fragility of the root system, and therefore be very careful.

The results of the work done depend both on the correct manipulations and on the variety of the lilac itself. The following varieties take root best of all: Dream, Hope, Buffon. Havemeyer, Katerina and Ludwig Shpet breed poorly.

The fresh aroma under the windows on a warm May night is the best evidence of the victorious spring and the imminent arrival of summer. Lilac flowers have many shades, aromas and varieties. About what to do so that the most liked varieties grow nearby, we will tell in this article.

cuttings

Like any beauty, lilac is quite capricious, so any method of reproduction requires a lot of effort and has both advantages and disadvantages.

Cuttings are the most difficult method of propagating lilacs, since you need to adhere to a number of conditions in terms of timing, temperature and humidity. However, it is the most effective, it is most often used in the mass cultivation of lilacs.

Now any beginner can learn how to propagate lilacs with cuttings, since there are a lot of training materials in the public domain, including video materials.

Timing

Timely preparation of cuttings is one of the main features of this type of breeding. Propagation by green cuttings is carried out in the spring, during the flowering period or the next week, while the young green branches finish growing, since the cuttings that have begun to grow old will no longer take root.

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It is recommended to harvest cuttings early in the morning. They are taken on young bushes mainly from their middle, choosing those growing on the middle part of the shoots. Branches need medium thickness, preferably with 2-3 nodes and small gaps between them.
Tops and shoots on thick branches are not suitable because they do not take root.

At the bottom node, cut off all the leaves. Then, just below it, an oblique cut is made, trying not to injure the plant, for this they take a sharp, or sharp grafting knife.

If the cut passes through the internode, the cutting will not take root. At the cutting, the top is cut off, right above the top node. The remaining leaves are cut in half.

After such cutting, the cuttings are placed in water for 15-18 hours with dissolved, for example, indolyl butyric acid, an aqueous solution.

Did you know? Most varieties of lilac bloom in the spring, for about three weeks, but the Jose or Boomerang variety, and a number of others, bloom several times during the year.

rooting

Rooting is best done in, it is better to place it in a light shade or make a shelter from the sun.

The cuttings are deepened so as to cover the lower node in the ground. Subsequent watering is carried out depending on the tightness of the greenhouse from two times a day to once a week, the main thing is to make sure that the soil does not dry out.

To combat mold, cuttings, no more than once a week, are treated with a weak solution.

Rooting lasts a long time, from 40 days to a couple of months. Not recent weeks cuttings need to be aired, and then completely open.

Important! Various varieties lilacs take root in different ways. The rooting of the varieties Nadezhda, Buffon, Mechta goes without problems, the results of the varieties Hortensia, Krasnaya Moskva, Jeanne D'Arc are worse, and the varieties Havemeyr, Ludwig Shpet, Katerina practically do not take cuttings.

Landing

After rooting, the petioles can be transplanted. If it is already autumn, then it is better not to touch them, but to do a transplant in the spring. When rooting occurred before the end of summer, then from the beginning of autumn they can be transplanted into the "school" for growing.

By the end of root growth, the leaves on the cuttings may darken, this is normal, the main thing is that the buds are alive, then the seedling will take root.
The place for growing is determined in the sun, closed from the wind. The earth is selected light, neutral or. It is fertilized with humus and dug up on a bayonet.

In cuttings, fresh roots are very tender and fragile, so they are transplanted carefully, not rammed, but only so that the earth is slightly compacted. They are seated 30 cm apart.

For the winter, the cuttings are covered with coniferous spruce branches, hay or other dry cover. Lilacs are grown for a year or two, after which it can be planted in a permanent place.

The final planting of lilacs is best done in late summer - early autumn. When planting, the plant must be well watered. The landing site, if you do not take into account the design factor, you need to choose sunny, warm, well-drained, neutral fertile, preferably even.

Lilac grafting

Vaccination is the most effective way breeding varietal lilac. You can graft not only on wild, but also on any varietal lilac. You can grow a rootstock seedling yourself from seeds, but it will take you a couple of years to do this, you can graft on it when it reaches a centimeter thickness.

There are many ways to graft plants, copulation is best suited for lilacs, ordinary grafting with a cutting over the bark, grafting into a split, budding with a sleeping bud (summer) and budding in the butt.

Timing

If cuttings of lilacs can only be taken in spring, when flowering occurs, then grafting can be done most of the season. According to the time of vaccination, it can be divided into spring, before the start of sap flow, and summer, when the tree fully feeds on sap.

Before sap flow, copulation and cleft grafting are carried out. With the onset of sap flow, the usual grafting is done with a cutting, this usually happens during the flowering of lilacs. The dormant bud budding period depends solely on the stage of bud maturation and occurs in mid or late summer, depending on the region.

Important! Regardless of the period and type of vaccination, this should be done in dry sunny weather.

Harvesting cuttings for grafting is done at the beginning of winter, but it is possible at the end of winter or early spring, before spring grafting.

Scion and rootstock preparation

If the cuttings were cut at the beginning of winter, they are wounded in sawdust under the snow or in a damp cloth, in a bag in the refrigerator.

For scioning, you can buy in special farms or from breeders. If the cuttings are harvested on their own, a number of conditions must be observed.

Firstly, they are taken from well-known, proven bushes in order to know exactly which variety you are grafting. The bush should be relatively young, from three to ten years old.

Well-ripened, annual sprouts are cut from the bush, they are cut from the sunny side of the bush, preferably from south side, from the outer part of the crown. It is best to take shoots at an average height of the plant, since the lower ones are usually still small, and the upper ones are already too thick to take root.
Optimum will be cuttings 30-40 cm long and about 7 cm thick, with short internodes and well-marked, developed growth buds, there should be from 4 to 5.

For rooting, you can use different ages. Only the method of grafting will differ, for example, by copulation on thin shoots, and for bark on shoots thicker than one and a half cm. If an adult bush with a thick trunk is grafted, then it is better to vaccinate all skeletal branches.

Did you know? Lilac belongs to the Olive family, and lilac flowers are edible.

The process of budding

Budding with a sleeping bud is one of the main methods of grafting lilacs. It is held in July or August. For stock, take two-year-old seedlings or root shoots.

In anticipation of budding, in a couple of weeks, vegetation is cleared around the stock, and the lateral lower shoots and shoots coming from the roots are cut off at the rootstock itself. Before grafting, the rootstock trunk is thoroughly cleaned with a damp cloth.
A sleeping kidney (a shield with an eye) is cut off from the handle, for this, taking the handle with the lower part towards you in left hand, place the knife a couple of centimeters above the kidney and slightly cutting into, spend it a little deeper than the kidney, ending the cut below it.

On the trunk of the stock, 3-5 cm from the ground, a T-shaped incision is made on the bark, the bark is carefully separated on both sides of the vertical incision. The shield is placed in a T-shaped incision, removing the protruding part with a knife.

Then the grafting site is wrapped, leaving the kidney with the petiole open. After the shield has grown together with the barrel, the winding is removed. In early spring, part of the rootstock above the accustomed kidney is cut off.

plant care

Usually the graft takes root in a couple of weeks, but they begin to grow much later, depending on the timing of the grafting this, or even next summer. Therefore, until the stalk is dry, and the buds on it are green, the vaccination is considered successful.

The garter of the scion is removed to avoid growing it into, and in the event that there is confidence that it will not be broken off by the wind. To ensure engraftment, it is necessary to remove the sprouts below the grafting site.

Lilac from root shoots

Probably the most in a simple way lilac reproduction is reproduction by root shoots. They do it in the canopy, when the movement of lilac juices stops and the root system is not so sensitive.

It is desirable to choose a cloudy day. The bush from which the shoots are taken should be well-strengthened, already flowering. After watering it, a young seedling is separated. Since young roots are very fragile, this should be done carefully so as not to tear them.

The resulting seedling, with already formed roots, is transplanted. The only disadvantage of this propagation is that the new plant will not bloom for about three years.

seed propagation

Lilacs are propagated by seeds when they want to grow a stock for later grafting. valuable varieties lilacs or if they want to get a new variety.

The fact is that during flowering occurs cross pollination and as a result, the same lilac will no longer grow, the flowers will be different.

Of the resulting seeds, some will be similar to the parent, some will degrade to "wilds" (the flowers will be smaller and rarer), they can be used on a stock, and some can grow with superior maternal splendor, aroma and color. This is how new varieties are obtained.

Seed harvesting

Seeds are harvested in the fall, they are dried at home for several days until the boxes open, the rate of opening is determined by the lilac variety, if necessary, the seeds are harvested by hand.

Seeds are harvested a quarter more than necessary, so that substandard seedlings are then rejected. harvested seeds either sown for the winter, or at home.

Preparation and sowing

Seeds can be sown before winter directly into the ground, do it in already frozen ground or before the first snow falls. On a clean, without, and other plants, the seeds are dropped a couple of centimeters.

In the spring, after the snow melts, this one is covered with a film, and when the sprouts rise and grow (4-5 leaves appear), they swoop down and sit down more freely.

If the seeds are stored for the winter, then they are mixed with wet sand, 3 parts of sand to part of the seeds, or put honey in wet wipes and placed in the refrigerator for several months. In the spring, they are sown on a film prepared for film, or they are pre-sprouted at home in a container.

In the spring, it is advisable to pre-disinfect the soil in the beds thermally from black rot and other fungi.

Seedling care

During cultivation, seedlings are fed two or three times a season or fertilizers. The timing of seedlings is highly dependent on the variety, but no later than three months.

When propagating from layering, we get viable seedlings in a year. In an ungrafted plant, this is important, annual shoots bend down to the ground, fasten in this position and sprinkle with earth. Water during the season.

The grown bushes are separated and seated in the fourth year. With grafted lilacs, they act in this way, above the place of grafting, the trunk is pulled with wire, tilted and the plant is covered with earth by two-thirds so that the overstretched place is in the ground.

By the end of the season, new roots form above the constriction, after which the layers can be separated and planted.

When you decide how to breed lilacs, which method to choose, you need to consider which of its advantages and disadvantages is critical for you. Cutting lilacs with green cuttings, although it is difficult and laborious, it makes it possible to immediately obtain many seedlings of the required variety. Write in the comments what questions you did not receive an answer to, we will definitely respond!

You can recommend the article to your friends!

All cultivars lilacs reproduce vegetatively: shoots (own-root specimens), layering, grafting and green cuttings. If you do not have grafting skills, and it is problematic for you to make layering, then the most suitable method for you is propagation by green cuttings.

Gardeners have the misconception that blooms worse. However, it is in no way inferior in terms of, moreover, it is more durable. There are landings that proper care do not lose their decorative effect for more than 50 years. refers to plants that are difficult to root, therefore, for successful reproduction, a number of conditions must be met:

It is very important to observe the deadlines for harvesting cuttings. Semi-lignified cuttings do not root. The most suitable time is the moment of flowering or immediately after it, when the young overgrown branches finish their growth.
It is desirable to cut the cuttings in the early morning from young bushes from the middle of the crown, using twigs of medium thickness (in extreme cases, thin ones) from the middle part of the shoot. It is best to have 2-3 nodes on it and fairly short internodes.

Shoots coming from thick branches - tops, or fat shoots are not suitable for harvesting lilac cuttings. In lilac tops, as a rule, do not take root.

Preparation of cuttings

First, completely remove the leaves from the bottom node.

Make an oblique cut as close as possible to the bottom node from which the leaves have been removed. Use a well-sharpened or special secateurs for this, in order to injure the tissue at the cut site as little as possible. Cuttings cut exactly at the internodes, as well as from fatty shoots (tops), do not take root.

Cut the remaining leaf blades in half.

Remove the top of the shoot by making a straight cut over the top node.

Immediately after cutting the cuttings, place them in the stimulant solution Epin-extra at 16-18 hours. Immediately before planting, they will need to be washed with clean water.

Rooting lilac cuttings in a greenhouse

It is best to plant cuttings in a greenhouse or located in partial shade. In extreme cases, you can do without a greenhouse by covering the cuttings with trimmed five-liter ones from under drinking water. Prepare the soil for planting. To do this, mix with sand in a ratio of 1: 1. Not bad if you replace part of the sand with perlite. It retains moisture better and at the same time breathes, preventing the cuttings from rotting. Fill the stalk with this mixture with a layer of 15-20 cm. From above, cover it with a layer of sand (preferably river sand) 5 cm thick. Pour the prepared place well with a fungicide solution (Fundazol, Vitaros, Maxim). This will protect the cuttings from damage by fungal diseases.

Lilac cuttings take root difficult, so the use of root stimulants is necessary. Dip the cutting with the wet end into the stimulator Kornevin.

Make a small indentation in the damp sand and place the stalk there, completely deepening the lower knot. Make sure that the root stimulator powder does not crumble from it. Seal. The lower end of the handle should be completely in the sand and not touch the ground. The distance between the cuttings is such that the leaves lightly touch each other.

Spray the cuttings with a spray bottle with water. You can add the solution remaining from soaking the cuttings to the water. Epina-extra.

Cover the cuttings with two layers of polyethylene, placing between them a layer of rare or translucent fabric. You can use other methods of shading, for example, put a plastic mesh fruit box on top of polyethylene, which will provide you with a sliding shadow. Make sure that the sand in the cutting does not dry out, spray the cuttings 2-3 times a day: they successfully root at 100%. Spray once a week with a light pink solution of potassium permanganate to prevent mold from forming on the leaves.

Lilac cuttings take root for a very long time, depending on the variety, the roots appear on the 40-60th day after planting. With the formation of roots, the stalk must be ventilated in the evening, and then open it completely.

Caring for rooted cuttings

If rooting happened late, then it is best to leave the cuttings for the winter in the cuttings. If the cuttings managed to take root before the end of August, early autumn they can be planted in a school - on a special bed for growing. In the year of rooting, the plant does not give shoots, but builds up. The leaves on the cuttings usually darken by the end of the season - this is not scary. If the buds are alive, the plants should take root.

For growing young seedlings, choose a bright place. The soil should be light and fertile, neutral or slightly acidic. Fill it with humus or compost, add, if necessary, 300-400 g or 200 g dolomite flour for 1 square meter and dig a shovel onto the bayonet. Plant rooted cuttings at a distance of about 30 cm.

Young lilac roots are very fragile, so plant them carefully, without compacting the soil, just water it so that the earth settles a little.

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