Large-leaved hydrangea: frost-resistant varieties. Large-leaved hydrangea: features of cultivation and photo varieties

This representative of the flora received this name in honor of the princess named Hortensia. She was the sister of a prince of the Roman Empire. But botanists often call the plant hydrangia. And from Greek, the word can be translated as "a vessel with water." And this name was given to the plant very aptly, because it loves moisture very much. Most hydrangeas grow in the form of bushes, the height of which is from 90 cm to three meters. But there are species that grow like small trees or creepers. Deciduous shrubs are most often cultivated, but in nature there are also evergreen representatives of the hydrangea family. And a big plus of hydrangeas is that they bloom for a long time - from May to late autumn. Inflorescences - spherical, paniculate or similar to "shields" or "umbrellas", are formed at the ends of the stems. In some species in the inflorescence closer to the middle there are small flowers, from which the fruitlets are then formed, and larger, spectacular, located closer to the edge, they are sterile. There are also species in the "head" of which the flowers are of the same size, moreover, they are all capable of producing fruits. Here are the most common types of hydrangeas:

• treelike;
• Himalayan;
• large-leaved;
• oaky;
• paniculate;
• petiolate (curly liana).

The flowers are usually white in color. But in a large-flowered hydrangea (it is also called garden), the color of the flowers can be pink, red, blue, blue, lilac. Often, the color depends on the pH (the level of reaction of the soil environment) and the presence of aluminum in the soil. The petals are white or pale beige when the soil is neutral. If the reaction of the medium in the soil is acidic, then the flowers are bluish, blue. Inflorescences are lilac or pinkish if the soil is alkaline. Here are the nuances of growing large-leaved hydrangea and will be discussed further in our article.

Description of large-leaved hydrangea

In natural natural conditions(in the subtropics) this shrub can reach three or four meters in height. Cultivated hydrangeas usually have a height of one to two meters. Indoor forms usually grow up to 60 centimeters. The leaves are ovate or oval with a pointed tip. Their color is dark green. From June to October, the plant is decorated with inflorescences - white, bluish, pink, greenish, lilac, cream or mottled. In Europe, the first specimens of heat-loving hydrangia, capable of producing armfuls of flowers, were brought from Japan. In Russia, at first they were kept only at home. Gradually, they learned to grow this beauty in conditions open ground, but with cover winter time. If last year's shoots overwinter successfully, then in the summer flowers will appear on them. Now, thanks to breeding work, it has become possible to acquire relatively winter-hardy and remontant varieties of this beautiful plant.

Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea

Experienced gardeners have long learned to successfully grow such interesting varieties hydrangia:

1. "Avantgarde" - this bush has very large, dense inflorescences, the diameter of which reaches 30 centimeters. These "caps" surprise with a variety of shades of petals: white, pinkish, green, lilac, bluish.
2. "Blushing Bride Endless Summer" - first white buds appear on the bush, then they turn into snow-white semi-double flowers. Gradually, the petals turn pink. Therefore, among the people, the variety was given a different name - “Blushed Bride”.
3. "Blaumeise" - since July, on this compact bush (its height is about 120 centimeters), lacy inflorescences flaunt, the average diameter of which is 15 centimeters. The marginal flowers are larger than those in the middle of the inflorescence. The petals can be blue, and when the acidity of the soil under the bush changes, they gradually turn into iridescent lilac, and then into pink color. Experience shows that this hydrangea variety is resistant to disease, but definitely needs good shelter before the winter comes. It blooms directly on last year's shoots, so it is important to preserve the flower buds laid on them.

After 2003, in the gardens of Russians, fans of hydrangeas, thanks to the efforts of breeders, new hydrangeas began to appear. We list only a few varieties of more winter-hardy large-leaved hydrangeas:

• a series of "Endless Summer" (translated as "Endless Summer");
• "Early Sensation" (can be translated as "Early Sensation") - this series has several representatives;
• "Red Sensation" (translated as "Red Sensation");
• series "Forever";
• terry series "U-and-Mi" ("Symphony", "Romance", "Tugese", "Expression");
• "Expression" (rich pink double flowers);
• "Hovaria Hanabi Rose" (double flowers, their color is light pink, but when the pH of the soil changes, it can change to bluish);
• "You & Me Love" (beautiful pink petals can also change color);
• "Peppermint" ( pink flowers with white border).

Now in nurseries and many flower growers on the plots you can see remontant varieties, for example, Bloom Star, Mini Penny, Hobergin, White Ball, Coco Blanc, Firewox White, David Ramsey, "Ripple".

In such bushes, at first (in May or in the first weeks of June), buds appear on those shoots that overwintered. A little later, buds open on the grown shoots of this year.

Large-leaved blue hydrangea is obtained in a slightly acidic soil environment from varieties - Nikko Blue, Mini Penny, Jomari, Hopcorn Blue, Freepon.

If you want multi-colored hydrangeas, then look for the varieties "Freedom", "Compeito", "Ramars", "Expression", "Magic Sunfields", "Shloss Wackerbarth", "Sweet Fantasy".

White flowers that do not have pigment are formed on varieties - "Shniebol", "Koria".

Let's plant a large-leaved hydrangea

The best time to plant this plant is spring (when the rays of the warm sun warm the soil), but it is also allowed to do this in the first two weeks of September. It’s great if the area that you allocate for hydrangea is with light penumbra, which is somehow protected from the streams of the prankster wind. Very good if they fall on the bush Sun rays for six hours a day (preferably in the morning and evening hours). Under tall trees It is better not to place hydrangia, otherwise such large neighbors will take all the water from the soil for themselves, depriving the moisture-loving modest neighbor. The depth, width and length of the landing pit should be approximately 50 centimeters. Prepare the mixture with which you will fill the pit in advance, for example, from the following components:

• light garden soil (two parts);
• high-moor peat (two parts);
• humus (one part);
• fallen needles (one part).

If your soil is clayey, then be sure to place drainage at the bottom of the dug hole, for example, small pebbles, expanded clay.

Hydrangeas develop well on those soils where the reaction of the medium is acidic. If you expect flowers of blue, blue and lilac color, then aluminum sulfate should also be sent to the pit. If you plant varieties whose flower color is declared pink or red (for example, Alpengluchen, Red Baron, Early Sensation, Red Sensation varieties), then such forms need an alkaline environment.

First, the roots of the seedling must be held for some time in a bucket of water, and only then proceed to planting. Set your seedling in the prepared hole, straighten its roots and then sprinkle them with the mixture that was prepared earlier. root collar plants can be deepened only a little, because the lower buds are located on it, capable of producing young shoots. Water the soil compacted under the plant generously so that it can soak well. To keep moisture longer, sprinkle the soil near the bush with a layer of mulch, using crushed bark or peat fallen from the conifers. It is this mulch that will also help to ensure that the reaction of the environment is acidic. If you have several seedlings, then there should be a distance of at least a meter between them.

Let us recall once again that for good development and flowering, hydrangea bushes need a lot of moisture. Therefore, you will have to make sure that the soil around them is moist, and water them in a timely manner. For a successful wintering, it is important that in the fall the large-leaved hydrangea receives a lot of moisture. Best for watering rain water from a barrel in the sun. If you don’t have such water, then draw tap water into the barrel in advance so that it warms up during the day. Before watering in hard water, add a little citric acid(or diluted 9% vinegar).

Be prepared for the fact that a young bush will not immediately give you armfuls of flowers. First, he will develop the root system, and only then with each subsequent year there will be more and more flowers. To avoid root rot, in the first season, pour a few crystals of potassium permanganate into the watering bucket so that the solution turns pink. The first three seasons do not cut the hydrangea bush. Only dried branches can be removed. Then every spring it will be necessary to carry out pruning. The cut is made to the first living bud, cutting off the old inflorescences left on the bush for the winter. If you cut a branch of a remontant variety in the spring, then a little later (in the same season) several flower stalks will form on the same branch from the lateral buds. Thus, the number of inflorescences in varieties of the remontant type of hydrangeas is increased. If you cut the branches of an ordinary hydrangea in this way, then you will see new inflorescences on these branches only in the next season.

In spring, large-leaved hydrangea needs to be fed. For her, it is better to use special mineral complexes designed for hydrangeas. Spend the second feeding at the moment when the buds appear on the plant. The third top dressing is done in the fall (September), shortly before the end of flowering. You can also sprinkle humus under the plants. One of the top dressings can be done by adding diluted fermented manure to the water for irrigation.

And now a little about the diseases that sometimes develop on hydrangeas:

1. Chlorosis - it can be suspected if leaves suddenly begin to turn yellow on a hydrangea bush, while their veins remain green. The disease develops if the soil has an alkaline environment. To eliminate the symptoms, it is necessary to acidify the soil by fertilizing iron vitriol, a solution with the addition of potassium nitrate.
2. False powdery mildew- oily spots appearing on the leaf plates, which turn yellow over time, testify to it. Gradually, these spots grow in size and darken. In this case, spray your bushes with fungicides.

If some leaves on the hydrangea began to dry out and fall off, then carefully examine the leaves from the underside. If there is a cobweb, then these are signs of the appearance of spider mites on the bush. Actellik or other insecticidal preparations will help to cope with them.

How to propagate large-leaved hydrangea?

There are three ways to easily propagate your favorite hydrangea:

1. The division of the bush in the spring. Prepare a few holes to accommodate the "new settlers". Dig up your overgrown bush. Divide it into several parts so that growth buds are present, which will then give young shoots. You can slightly trim the long roots and shorten the shoots.
2. Bending layering in early May. Several flexible twigs bend from an adult bush, fix them in the hole with a bracket. The depth of the hole should be approximately 15 centimeters. Where the branch will be in contact with the soil, cut off the leaves. In this place, scrape the bark with a knife to "start" the process of root formation. And only then fill the hole with earth. The top of such a branch can be tied to a small peg to stand upright. Visit your layering and constantly moisten the soil around them. By autumn, the branches will take root. You can cut them off from the bush. Plant these young independent plants next spring.
3. Cuttings - it is carried out in June. Cut in the morning from annual shoots segments, the length of which is 10 centimeters. Make the bottom cut obliquely. lower leaves cut off, and cut the top to the middle. Put them at home in a glass with Kornevin, it will stimulate the formation of roots. After a day, send the lower part of each cutting to a moist substrate. If possible, carry out cuttings in mini greenhouses or cuttings. If they are not, then you can use a shaded bed. Then cover the cuttings with a cap, cutting plastic bottle in half. Periodically remove the caps, moisten the substrate, and lightly spray the cuttings. After about a month, you will see how young leaves begin to grow. So, the roots in the ground have already grown.

Is it possible to change the color of hydrangea large-leaved flowers?

There are varieties of hydrangeas that can change their color from red or hot pink to lilac, blue, blue. The color will change if the soil under the bush is made with an acid reaction. To achieve this result throughout the season, once a week, aluminum sulfate must be added to the water for irrigation (two tablespoons of this are measured per two liters of water). chemical compound). Such hydrangeas should be fed only with fertilizers that contain little phosphorus, otherwise an excess of this element will bind aluminum present in the ground, which will interfere with the color change of flowers.

Another way to change the color of the petals is to water the plants twice a month with water in which iron salts or potassium alum (ammonium-potassium) alum are mixed (5 grams of alum should be placed in two liters of water). Right now in garden shops there are special blue dyes and a soil acidifier called Acid Plus on sale.

If you want the hydrangea to continue to produce bright pink or red inflorescences, then maintain an alkaline reaction of the environment by pouring ashes under the bush or pouring it with water in which it is mixed dolomite flour. And these bushes, respectively, need fertilizers where the phosphorus content is high.

How does the large-leaved hydrangea winter?

If your region has warm winters, then there will be no hassle with hydrangeas. But in regions where winters are cold, a number of measures will be required.

Heat-loving bushes of this type of hydrangea must be reliably prepared for winter so that frosts of more than 18 degrees do not damage their shoots. First, before the arrival of stable frosts, spray the bushes with Bordeaux liquid to prevent them from damping out. Next, choose one of the winter shelter methods:

1. Pour a good hill of peat to the bush. Put spruce branches on this elevation. If the shoots are low, then bend them to the surface of the soil. Secure them with a wire frame. Throw a non-woven material on top (for example, Lutrasil), cover with spruce branches or compost soil. Next, put the roofing material to protect it from precipitation.
2. If the branches of your bush are already high, stiff, they cannot be bent to the ground, then tie them together with improvised means, shifting them with large spruce branches. Next, wrap them with several layers of agrofibre (Agrospan). From above, pack everything under a thick film.
3. An original idea for a planar dry shelter. In October, lay out your garden hydrangea bush like a "sun". To do this, tilt all the shoots and place them in diameter (as the rays of the sun are drawn in the picture). When the parts of the bush are laid, pour a bucket of peat into the center. If it is not available, then pour out a bucket of garden soil. So you protect the roots of your hydrangea from the cold. Next, cover the flattened hydrangea with Lutrasil. Sketch dry foliage on top, and last layer there will be a thick film. Fix its edges with bricks or boards. In the spring, when the sun begins to actively bake, after you completely remove all layers of the shelter, the shoots will gradually rise on their own.

In the spring, remove the layers of shelter from the hydrangea gradually, because sometimes significant nighttime drops in temperature occur.

Tim Bebel is a hydrangea specialist who works in an American garden center, selling seedlings of this plant, as well as growing them in own garden. Many admirers of hydrangeas often complained to him that they diligently looked after their hydrangeas, but they increase their green mass, but do not give flowers. What to do to hydrangeas stably and luxuriantly bloom? In his book, Tim Bebel gives the following advice to those gardeners who grow large-leaved hydrangeas in cold climates:

1. In early July, cut one third of the non-flowering twigs on the hydrangia bush so that their height from the ground becomes from five to twenty centimeters, while leaving one of the lowest buds on the shoot.
2. In the autumn, before the arrival of frosts, shorten the highest branches of your bush so that later you can mulch them. Mulch with drying foliage and those branches that have been cut.
3. Around the middle of October, mulch the hydrangea bush well using peat, chopped bark. You can then put large spruce branches on the “hill”.
4. At the end of April or in the first days of May (be guided by the weather) after all spring frosts, carefully remove the mulch. Be careful not to damage fragile buds on the branches. In the first week of June, you can cut off those parts of the branches that look dried up.
5. From May to mid-August, once a week, when watering, add fertilizer to the water with which you are going to moisten the soil under the hydrangea, where there are many trace elements and nitrogen, such as Miracid.

How to grow large-leaved hydrangeas in containers

If you purchased from a nursery or flower shop a wonderful variety of hydrangea, but you are afraid if it will overwinter in your country house, you can try growing it in a container or a large pot. First, place small pebbles in the bottom of the container, creating a drainage layer. Then fill it with substrate and move the purchased seedling there. The substrate must certainly be loose. To do this, mix taken in equal proportions:

• garden soil;
• needles with coniferous trees brought from the forest and half-rotted;
• high peat.

From May to the end of September, put these containers in the garden, placing them near the house, gazebos, on the veranda, in the recreation area. In September, cut off the blooming inflorescences. After the foliage on the bush dries up, begins to leave the bushes, carefully tie all the shoots and transfer them to the basement or other room, where the temperature will be about plus five degrees. In March, these hydrangeas can be transferred from the cellar to more warm room, pour warm water, apply fertilizer. Then coniferous litter can be poured into containers, which will contribute to soil acidification and longer preservation of soil moisture. Every five years, it is advisable to transplant such bushes into a new substrate in the spring. You can put them in the garden in early May. But if weather forecasters warn of the arrival of frosts, then you will have to throw Spunbond on the hydrangea.

For diligent care and attention, large-leaved hydrangea bushes will annually delight you all summer with their delightful flowering.

Large-leaved hydrangea, photo