Fertilizing plants: organic fertilizers (manure, bird droppings, green manure, nitrogen, natural minerals, peat, coal, ash), organic fertilizers from store shelves. In order to live, plants need to eat. Their nutrients they get from the soil. Of course, garden soil already contains a major source of nutrients. But it must be constantly replenished. This should be done primarily by introducing organic, and then mineral fertilizers into the soil.

organic fertilizers

Manure
It's natural organic fertilizer. It would seem that what he can do to the soil? But the unreasonable introduction of manure into the soil is just as harmful as its shortage. Experienced gardener will never introduce cheese manure into the soil, but will pass it through the compost. Cattle manure kept on straw bedding contains all the essential nutrients. It matches horse manure, but it is too calorific. Horse dung good for early stuffing greenhouses. As a fertilizer, it is used in the form of compost.

Bird droppings.
Poultry droppings, especially chicken droppings, are a very strong fertilizer. It contains more nitrogen than manure, it also contains phosphorus and potassium, but in much smaller quantities. Why, with such a supercomposition, you ask, is bird manure so inactively used. There are mainly two reasons. First, bird manure is extremely bad smell Secondly, it contains a large number of weed seeds and helminth eggs. In addition, fresh litter reacts too actively, which is why it can harm plants.

True, science has found a way. Today, the industry offers gardeners to use dry bird droppings. It is prepared by thermal drying at very high temperatures. The result is a granular fertilizer gray color. The unpleasant smell, however, remains, but it can no longer be compared with the original one. Nutrients in dry litter are preserved, but the seeds of weeds, eggs of worms and flies die. Dry manure should be diluted with water at the rate of 100 g per 10 liters of water, infused and used to feed plants during the growing season. It is even better to prepare compost by mixing dry manure and peat in a ratio of 1:2. If desired, you can add mineral fertilizers to such compost.

siderates.
A wonderful organic fertilizer is an herbal nutrient solution. How to cook it? Pick up herbs. It is best to start with nettles. Chop the grass, and then put it in a plastic or wooden barrel and fill it with water. During fermentation, the slurry will foam, so the barrel cannot be filled to the top. Herbal slurry must be stirred daily with a stick to release the accumulated oxygen. In sunny, warm summer green manure will wander especially strongly. Often gardeners complain that herbal slurry emits a too strong, unpleasant odor. You can get rid of it if you add a few drops of valerian extract to the liquid. After about two weeks, the liquid will clear up. Fermentation is over, green manure can be applied.

Nettle slurry should not be used undiluted. It must be diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10. Watering should be under the root. Nettle slurry feeds exhausted plantings of tomatoes, cabbage, celery, and cucumbers well. But for beans, peas and onions, this fertilizer is not suitable.

Nitrogen is from legumes.
Legumes have an excellent ability to enrich the soil with nitrogen. These plants "work" together with nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Clover, vetch, lupine, and from vegetable crops - peas and beans - are excellent nitrogen accumulators. Plants planted in beds where prior year legumes grew, practically do not need additional feeding. By the way, legumes also loosen the soil, because their root system extends deeply in breadth. The above-ground mass of legumes is also a good green fertilizer.

natural minerals.
Soil improvers can also be attributed to the group of natural mineral fertilizers, for example, stone flour. This is stone dust, a waste of quarries and stone processing industry. The composition of the flour depends on the processed rocks. The most valuable stone flour from granite and basalt, it serves as a source of trace elements and minerals, has the ability to retain large amounts of water, which is important for improving sandy soils. In general, any stone flour improves the structure of the soil, delays the removal of nutrients from it.

Binds nutrients especially well and improves cloddy soil structure calcium. It neutralizes excess acidity. At the same time, it must be borne in mind that the dose of calcium fertilizers cannot be overestimated, otherwise the reaction of the soil solution will turn out to be alkaline. Correcting an oversight will be difficult, and the alkali will damage the plants. Calcium is introduced gradually and directed. For example, on loams, stone dust containing calcium can only be applied once.

Peat- medicine for the garden. Usually peat is considered as remedy for the garden. Its main merit is that it has the ability to absorb a lot of water and thus regulate soil moisture. It is also used to improve the structure of light sandy soils. But even on damp, clayey soils, peat can to a certain extent bind excess moisture. However, peat can acidify the soil, then to neutralize it is necessary to use dolomite flour or lime. Peat contains almost no nutrients, so it must be enriched mineral fertilizers, compost, stone flour.

Furnace fertilizer.
As you know, when burning firewood, branches, straw and other plant residues, stove ash is obtained. Phosphorus and potassium in the ashes are contained in a form readily available to plants. The value of ash is that there is almost no chlorine in it, but sulfur, iron, magnesium, boron, manganese, molybdenum, zinc are present. Wood and straw ash can be used on all soils, except for saline soils. It not only enriches the soil with nutrients, but also improves it. physical properties and also reduces acidity. At the same time, more favorable conditions for the development of beneficial microflora, and as a result, productivity increases.

Ash must be buried in the soil to a depth of at least 8-10 cm, because, left on the surface, it contributes to the formation of a soil crust that is harmful to plants and microflora.

On loamy and clayey soils, ash should be applied before autumn digging, and on sandy and sandy soils - before spring. To increase efficiency, ash is used not in pure form, and together with peat or humus as an organic-mineral mixture (1 part of ash is mixed with 2-4 parts of wet peat or humus).

Mixing with superphosphate, phosphate rock and Thomas slag reduces the availability of phosphorus for plants. For the same reason, ash should not be applied with lime, nor should it be used on recently calcareous soils.

Organic fertilizers from store shelves.

"Reserve!"- liquid organomineral fertilizer intended for fertilizing and feeding vegetables, berries and fruit crops, colors. Sold in white plastic bottles different capacity. The basis of the preparation is salts of humic acids; they are formed as a result of the decomposition of plant and animal residues, which perfectly increase soil fertility. In addition to organic components, the fertilizer contains macro- and microelements (nitrogen, phosphorus, copper, zinc, etc.). To feed plants, 0.5 cups of fertilizer are diluted in 10 liters of water.

Biohumus "Vermix"- this is the humus obtained as a result of processing organic waste California red worm. The fertilizer is a free-flowing product of dark color, has a neutral reaction. Biohumus is rich in enzymes, soil antibiotics, plant growth hormones. Fertilizer can be applied both in dry form and in the form of infusion (1.8 kg of fertilizer is diluted in a bucket of water and infused for 1-2 days.

Compost "Reliable"- organic fertilizer, which is a loose mass, very similar to ordinary earth. It is used as a fertilizer and top dressing for horticultural, ornamental and indoor plants, as well as in the amount of seedling mixture.

The nutrients contained in the fertilizer easily penetrate the soil and quickly reach the plants. There are no weed seeds, helminth eggs in the compost. After adding the Reliable compost to the soil, fertilizing with biological additives is no longer required. Fertilizer can be used during continuous digging of the site in spring or autumn, but point application is much more effective when planting seedlings, bulbs, tubers, shrubs (100-200 g per well). For top dressing, 0.5 kg of compost should be placed in 10 liters of water and kept for 3 days. For each plant, use 0.5 liters of solution.

Supercompost "Pixa"- organic fertilizer with bioadditives. It is a free-flowing black product with a smell of earth. It has a slightly alkaline effect on the soil. It is most expedient to use when planting vegetables - add 10-15 g (1 tablespoon) to the wells. Landing berry crops in landing pits lay 0.2-0.3 kg (2-3 cups) of fertilizer. For fruit and berry bushes and trees of the norm above: 0.5-0.7 kg (liter jar).

"Bioud Pixa"- liquid organic fertilizer with a bioadditive - used for fertilization and fertilizing and for restoring soil fertility. Sold in plastic bottles. It is a marsh-colored liquid with the smell of manure. Fertilizer is produced by fermentation of organic matter (cattle manure) without air access. This allows the nutrients to be converted into a form available to plants. For top dressing, 0.5 l of fertilizer is diluted in 10 l of water.

What natural fertilizer contains nitrogen. nitrogen fertilizers

Friday, February 20, 2015 4:35 pm + to quote pad

Nitrogen is one of the most demanded by plants chemical elements. Its lack can slow down the growth and development of most garden and horticultural crops. Plants experience the greatest need for nitrogen in the spring, at the time of their awakening and active growth. Therefore, we will start talking about the use of mineral fertilizers in the country with nitrogen fertilizers.

Everyone has their own requirements

Not all crops equally need a high nitrogen content in the soil - this is the first thing we need to remember so that top dressing will benefit the plants and not harm them.

First group

Under these crops, nitrogen fertilizers should be applied both before sowing (planting) and during the growing season; recommended doses - at least 25 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq.m of plantings (if other fertilizers are used, their amount is adjusted depending on the nitrogen content).

vegetables: cabbage, potatoes, pumpkin, zucchini, pepper, eggplant, rhubarb;
decorative: dahlia, panicled phlox, peony, rose, balsam, nasturtium, violet, carnation, zinnia, lilac and others;
fruit and berry: raspberry, blackberry, strawberry, cherry, plum.

Second group

These crops have medium nitrogen requirements; the recommended dose of fertilizers for them is the equivalent of 20 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq.m of crops or plantings.

vegetables: cucumber, tomato, beet, carrot, garlic, corn, parsley;
decorative: delphiniums, most annual flowers;
fruit and berry: currant, gooseberry, apple tree.

Third group

Moderate nitrogen requirements. The recommended dose of fertilizers is 15 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq.m of cultivated soil.

vegetables: leafy vegetables, onions, radishes, early potatoes;
decorative: all types of bulbous, saxifrage, primrose, daisies, adonis, juniper and others;
fruit: pear.

Fourth group

Plants with low demands on the nitrogen content in the soil; they need 7-8 g of ammonium nitrate per 1 sq.m of plantings.

vegetables: peas, beans, aromatic plants;
decorative: young, stonecrop, rhododendron, japanese azalea, heather, erica, kosmeya, purslane, oriental poppy and others.

How to determine if a plant needs to be fed

In nature, nitrogen reserves are concentrated primarily in humus; this substance passes into a form accessible to plants as a result of the decomposition of organic matter under the influence of soil microorganisms. However, natural reserves for the full development vegetable crops and good harvest not enough, so they need to be replenished from other sources.

Signs of nitrogen starvationoften manifested by a slowdown in growth and development; leaves may turn yellow or become covered with large yellowish-green spots. Atstrawberriesa red border appears along the edges of the leaves, a mustache is poorly formed, androsesflowering weakens, shoots grow slowly and poorly woody.

tomatoesbegin to lag behind in growth, shed the fruit that has set; their leaves become smaller and turn yellow. Atbeetsleaves turn yellow and quickly die off, their growth slows down.

If there is not enough nitrogentrees, they are weakly branched and hard to endure the winter cold. The fruits are tied small, and even they often crumble. In pome crops, the leaves turn pale and shrink; in stone fruits, the bark of branches may turn red.

Looking for the cause of the deficiency

Before you run for fertilizer, it's good to analyze the causes of the problem, especially if you are fertilizing regularly and signs of nutritional deficiencies still appear.

The point is that farnot all nitrogen is available to plants. Its absorption may be hindered, for example, increased acidity of the soil . Temperature (not so much the air as the ground) is another essential condition. And on loose sandy soils, poorly retaining moisture, easily soluble fertilizer components are washed out too quickly during irrigation.

Choosing the right solution

Here we need some theoretical knowledge. The most important thing to remember is that there are two forms of nitrogen available for uptake by plants −nitrate and ammoniacal. And depending on the conditions, either one or the other is more effective:

at hyperacidity soil needs nitrate nitrogen;
if the soil neutral or close to alkaline, ammonia nitrogen is more effective;
bye soil is not warm, nitrate nitrogen “works” better (when heat comes, both options will become acceptable).

On permeable sandy soils, it is recommended to apply fast-acting fertilizers in small doses, but regularly (while not forgetting to improve the composition and structure of the soil). In some cases, it is advisable to use foliar top dressing.

Overfeeding is bad

Everyone knows that a lack of nutrition is harmful to a plant. Butexcess nitrogenresults are also not good. It causes an abundant growth of green mass, but you can not wait for flowers and fruits from an “overfed” plant at all. But this is not the worst. Such cultures are vulnerable, and fungal diseases affect them more often than others.

If trees and shrubs received an excessive dose of nitrogen in the fall, sudden temperature changes can kill them: root system cannot resist the cold, and when the soil freezes, it dies. Growth and fruit shoots freeze out - even if such a plant overwinter, it will not give a good harvest next summer.

And the worst thing is that many plants (in particular, beets, early potatoes, lettuce and others) tend to accumulate excess nitrogen in the form of salts. These are the samenitrates, about the dangers of which everyone has heard. It is the fear of nitrates that makes many people stop using nitrogen fertilizers - and the solution is quite simple: do not get carried away with top dressing.

You can determine the excess nitrogenon appearance plants. In addition to lush growth, dark green coloration and curled leaf tips will indicate a problem.

What are nitrogen fertilizers

All organic fertilizers(manure, bird droppings, composts , peat , lake silt) contain nitrogen. But, as a rule, it takes time for it to turn into a mineral form available to plants. If you need to quickly fill the nitrogen deficiency, usenitrogen fertilizers, the raw materials for the production of which are Nitric acid and ammonia.

Urea (carbamide, carbonic acid diamide)

The most concentrated nitrogen fertilizer; is produced more often in granules. It dissolves well in water. The nitrogen content (in amide form) is not less than 46%. Nitrogen from urea is poorly absorbed by plants - it must first be converted into a mineral form, and this process directly depends on the acidity of the soil and its temperature. The most effective use of urea for fertilizing on neutral soils in the warm season.

The best way to use - foliar nitrogen supplements, especially useful for fruit trees(in the spring, starting from the moment the leaves form and then every 10-12 days during May and June; the solution is prepared in the proportion of 50 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water).

In general, urea is best applied in liquid form; when applying dry fertilizer, make sure that it is evenly distributed in the soil - a high concentration of nitrogen is fraught with burns in plants.

: Matchbox-13 g, tablespoon -10 g, teaspoon -3 g.

Ammonium nitrate (ammonium nitrate; ammonium nitrate)

Easily soluble in water, fast-acting fertilizer, most often produced in granules. Nitrogen content 34 - 35%. Due to the fact that nitrogen in this fertilizer is in both nitrate and ammonia form (equally), it has a universal application and can be used in almost any conditions and for any crops (some sources do not recommend applying it under cucumbers and melons). It should be borne in mind, however, that with regular use ammonium nitrate acidifies the soil.

For reference (how to measure the right dose of fertilizer): matchbox -17 g, tablespoon -12 g, teaspoon -4 g.

Ammonium sulfate (ammonium sulphate)

Let's well dissolve in water; Available in the form of a white or grayish crystalline powder. During storage, it practically does not cake. The nitrogen content (in ammonia form) is about 21%. Most often used in the main application of fertilizers.

Suitable for light, permeable soils as the ammonia nitrogen is fixed in the soil. But it must be taken into account: this fertilizer strongly acidifies the soil (therefore, its use is optimal for fertilizing rhododendrons, heathers and other lovers of acidic soil). On neutral and weak acidic soils recommend before making (especially in rows or planting holes) to mix ammonium sulphate with lime or chalk (10 g of fertilizer - 13 g of lime). But it should not be mixed with ash under any circumstances.

For reference (how to measure the right dose of fertilizer): matchbox -19 g, tablespoon -14 g, teaspoon - 5 g.

Calcium nitrate (calcium nitrate; calcium nitrate)

Easily soluble fertilizer produced in large cream-colored granules. Nitrogen content (in nitrate form) from 15 to 17%. Alkaline fertilizer, especially effective on acidic soils. It absorbs moisture very well and quickly caking, so it needs to be stored in a waterproof container. Great for liquid dressings, especially under bulbous crops; recommended for indoor use.

Sodium nitrate (sodium nitrate; sodium nitrate)

Well soluble in water, yellowish or grayish fine crystalline powder. The nitrogen content (in nitrate form) is about 16%. Alkaline fertilizer universal application, most effective on unlimed acidic soils. It is better to use in the form of liquid dressings (in particular, for beets and potatoes). Does not cake during storage.

When using any fertilizer, do not exceed the doses and fertilizing times recommended for each crop. Do not forget that the need for nitrogen in most plants decreases in the second half of summer, and at this time the application of nitrogen fertilizers should be reduced, if not completely abandoned, so that perennial crops have time to fully prepare for the upcoming winter. But in the spring, both the garden and the vegetable garden will be grateful if you replenish the food supplies necessary for the active growth of green pets.

This includes fertilizers, which contain one of important elements nutrition - how nitrogen. The active substance of this fertilizer nitrogen is denoted
sign N.

Nitrogen - as a mineral fertilizer contained in various types: ammonia (compound of nitrogen with four hydrogen particles), nitrate (compound of nitrogen with oxygen) and amide (compound of nitrogen with two hydrogen particles). related to amides urea as a fertilizer and calcium cyanamide.

Amide urea nitrogen at positive temperature it quickly converts to ammonia, then urea as a fertilizer, added to the soil, its properties are slightly different from ammonia fertilizers.

Ammonia nitrogen in the ground under the action of certain types of bacteria converted to nitrate. The rate of conversion of ammonia to nitrates is completely dependent on the temperature of the soil, its moisture and aeration (friability). The form of nitrogen changes and the agronomic properties of the fertilizer change as well.

Where to add nitrogen fertilizers for greater effect

Where mobile (water-soluble) nitrogen is not enough. There is little of it in podzolic (especially sandy) soils, more in gray forest lands and much more in chernozems. But there is no land where there would be such an amount of soluble nitrogen that plants could bring high yields for many years without the addition of nitrogen fertilizer. Means everywhere you need to add nitrogen fertilizers, but the doses depend on the content of soluble nitrogen in the soil.

What other methods, besides the addition of fertilizers, can improve the nitrogen supply of plants

The very first - it is tillage. When the site is kept clean from weeds and in a loose state, with normal (but not excessive) moisture, the humus that is present in the soil decomposes and the nitrogen insoluble in water, inaccessible to plants, partly passes into a well-assimilated state. The conclusion is simple on lands that are well cultivated, give nitrogen in smaller doses. You can increase the amount of nitrogen when you add such as organic fertilizers and green fertilizers, especially from legumes (lupine, peas, pelushka, vetch, etc.).

Agronomic properties of some mineral nitrogen fertilizers and their influence on the methods of fertilization

Mineral nitrogen fertilizers - this is nitrogen in the nitrate form (see table), nitrate fertilizers are called, they are not attached to the ground. They are always in the soil solution.

When it gets hot then water from the upper layers evaporating intensely especially when there is soil crust. Instead, water rises from the lower layers, and with it nitrate nitrogen to the very surface of the earth. This is bad, since there are practically no roots in the top layer.

When it rains, the opposite happens. Only after a light rain plants improve, because nitrate nitrogen from the top was washed into the lower layers of the earth, where there are more roots and, accordingly, the nutrition of the vegetation has improved.

During heavy rains nitrate nitrogen fertilizers deeply washed into the soil with water, away from the roots and they lose it. This occurs mainly in autumn, ammonia nitrogen is absorbed by the soil.

Means, ammonia nitrogen fertilizers and calcium cyanamide can be given in autumn without problems in loss of nitrogen. They are easier to use by plants on slightly acidic soils (with a pH greater than 6.0), while nitrate fertilizers must be given in acidic soils. Ammonia fertilizers a little acidify the soil, nitrate or alkalize.

The most common nitrogen fertilizers are:

fertilizer	what form is nitrogen in	weight 1 m 3 fertilizer in t or 1 liter in kg	impact on soil	note
Ammonium nitrate	Half in nitrate, half in ammonia		acidifies	Half of the nitrogen from the soil is not washed out, half can be washed out
Ammonium sulfate	In ammonia		Strongly acidifies	From the soil at first is not washed out
Ammonium sulfate - sodium
Urea	In the soil during warm weather, nitrogen quickly turns into ammonia form.		acidifies	Late autumn in cold weather it is better not to apply, it can wash out
calcium nitrate	In nitrate		alkalizes	The soil does not bind and can be washed out
sodium saltpeter
Ammonium chloride	In ammonia		acidifies	From the soil the first time is not washed out
calcium cyanamide	Nitrogen in the soil slowly converts to ammonia		alkalizes

When should mineral nitrogen fertilizers be applied to the ground?

They need apply in late autumn like phosphorus, or potassium, or magnesium in the form of the main or early spring. On the clay soils(but not on sand) should only be given ammonia fertilizers. They won't wash no nitrate fertilizers .

When spring comes, we begin to give into the soil nitrogen fertilizers(ammonia, nitrate and urea as a fertilizer). Both in spring and in autumn, the method is simple - simple dispersion, and then digging. In the summer time first of all we give nitrate fertilizers (nitrates) , if they are not, then give ammonia and urea as a fertilizer.

It's an acidic fertilizer therefore, before applying on podzolic, as well as on light unlimed soils it must be neutralized add 0.6 kg of limestone or chalk per 1 kg of fertilizer. The average application rate is 250-450 g per 10 m². ammonium nitrate must not be mixed with organic fertilizers: peat, straw, sawdust, as spontaneous combustion and explosion from detonation are possible. Pack it in waterproof bags and store in dry rooms.

If it gets on the mucous membranes and skin, will have a local irritant effect. Therefore, when working, it is necessary to use overalls and personal protective equipment. Wash hands thoroughly with soap and water after finishing work. warm water and rinse your mouth.

In case of eye contact you need to rinse them with water until the burning sensation disappears and consult a doctor, on the skin - wash it with water and lubricate with petroleum jelly or zinc-stearin ointment.

In case of nitrogen oxide poisoning, released during the combustion of ammonium nitrate, it is necessary: immediately pull the victim out of the fire; free from clothing that restricts breathing; give a sniff of cotton wool soaked in ammonia; call a doctor immediately.

Lime-ammonium nitrate is a less concentrated fertilizer (17.0-22% nitrogen), but has better properties. Obtained by adding finely crushed limestone or chalk (CaCO3) to the melt of ammonium nitrate. She follows weakly. The calcium contained in it neutralizes acidity, so it must be applied on acidic soils. On neutral or alkaline soils, it has no advantages over ammonium nitrate. The average application rate is 400-500 g per 10 m².

Dangerous doses of mineral nitrogen fertilizers

Insufficient amount of digestible nitrogen in the ground inhibits the development of the plant and leads to a decrease in the quantity and quality of the crop. Excess amount other fertilizers, gives a bad effect on plants.

With a lack of nitrogen black currants form short and thin shoots, small, pale green leaves. Flowering and the formation of berries proceeds poorly.
In strawberries, the color of young developed leaves changes from light green to yellow, their growth stops. Reddening cloves first appear on old leaves, with time they acquire a bright yellow tint, part of the leaf blade dies off.

The worst period- the survival rate of seedlings in the late summer period (winter hardiness weakens, the fruits become less sweet, poor color and poor storage). Too much mineral nitrogen delays the entry of young trees into the fruiting season.

Advantages of nitrogen fertilizers in granules

Ammonium nitrate - main nitrogen fertilizer produced by our industry. It is produced in the form of spherical granules of 1-3 mm, flakes or crystals. To prevent this fertilizer from caking, a small amount of phosphate rock, calcium, magnesium nitrates, etc. are added to it during the production process, which give it a yellow tint. Sometimes fuchsin and amaranthus are used as an additive, coloring it red.

Granulated ammonium nitrate in a warm and humid climate, it has better flowability and spreadability than scaly and crystalline. It is a universal nitrogen fertilizer with high content nitrogen (33.6-34.8%). Suitable for all vegetable crops for the main, pre-sowing application, including surface, and top dressing. It contains one half of the nitrogen in the slow-acting ammonia form, the other half in the mobile, fast-absorbing nitrate form.