When to fertilize fruit trees in the fall. Fertilizers for autumn planting of fruit trees

Fertilizers for autumn planting

In autumn, there is much more time for planting trees and shrubs than in spring, so there is an opportunity to carefully prepare everything, purchase the right materials, soil components (peat, sand) and fertilizers.

AT middle lane autumn planting of plants with an open root system traditionally begins in mid-September. In the northern regions, you can start landing work 1-2 weeks earlier, and in the south, respectively, later, when shoot growth ends.

A very important operation in preparing seedlings for planting (more correctly, for digging in a nursery) in the fall - sniffing. This funny word is often found in horticultural literature and means the mechanical removal of the leaves of a seedling with a hand movement from the bottom up or from the base of the branch to its tip. Moving the hand in the opposite direction can damage the buds of a tree or bush. If the leaves do not come off completely when sniffing, say, their central veins remain on the shoot, it’s not scary, the main thing is to reduce the evaporating surface of the plant.

This removal of leaves prevents the seedling from losing water, and therefore delays the drying of its shoots. This improves the survival of plants during transplantation. In addition, when sniffing, the top of the shoot, which is not mature, easily fading and not adapted to normal wintering, is often removed.

Seedlings with a closed root system (growing in pots, tubs or bags of soil) do not need so much sneezing, since their roots do not suffer during transplantation, of course, if the earthen ball is not disturbed. However, the removal of part of the leaves and unripened tops of the shoots in this case will also have a positive effect on the survival rate of seedlings.

For plants with an open root system, as with spring planting, main - prevent roots from drying out, for which a damp cloth, plastic bags, clay talker and others can be used.

Soil preparation and fertilizer

Digging holes for fruit and berry crops autumn does not differ from a similar spring operation. Under apple and pear trees, they dig a hole with a diameter of 0.8–1 m, a depth of 0.7–0.8 m, under stone fruits - a little smaller in size, under berry bushes - with a diameter of 0.5–0.6 m and a depth of 0.3–0. .4 m (about 1.5 shovel bayonet).

But other fertilizers are used when filling the soil in the fall. First of all, at this time it is useless and even harmful to introduce a large amount of nitrogen. First, it stimulates plant growth and, if applied in the fall, can prevent seedlings from preparing for winter. And secondly, nitrogen is very mobile in the soil, it is easily washed out of the root layer by rain and melt waters. By spring, when this element is needed by awakening plants, it will have to be re-applied.

If fresh manure is used, then it is poured into the bottom of the pit and separated from the roots of the seedling with a layer of soil. But it is much better to use rotted manure when preparing the soil, adding it to landing pit in an amount from 2 (under the berries) to 5-7 buckets and mixing with a substrate of peat or old compost, sand and original land.

The main mineral fertilizers used in autumn planting are phosphorus and potash. One landing hole fruit crops double superphosphate is applied at the rate of 100200 g (depending on the size of the pit and soil fertility), potassium sulfate - 150–300 g. Under the berries, the application rate is two times lower, since the volume of holes dug under them is less.

It is convenient to use mineral fertilizers labeled "Autumn". In addition to phosphorus and potassium, they may contain some nitrogen (2-5% - an amount that is not dangerous during autumn planting), as well as trace elements, which is useful for the further development of the plant. Under

In seedlings in containers, the roots do not suffer during transplantation, which cannot be said about plants with open roots, they must be protected from drying out. small holes and fertile soil).

Application doses found in the literature, as well as those recommended on packages, may differ from those given above. But when calculating, proceed from simple numbers concentration - 1–2 g of fertilizer per 1 liter of pit soil. We are talking about all mineral fertilizers applied to the soil, except for lime. For example, it is easy to calculate that a landing pit with a diameter of 0.8 m and a depth of 0.7 m with vertical walls has a volume of about 350 l (πR 2 x h, where π = 3.14; R is the pit radius of 0.4 m; h is depth 0.7 m). The application of 300–500 g of fertilizer marked “Autumn” or 200 g of superphosphate and 300 g of potassium sulfate (all introduced substances are summed) into the soil with which it will be filled fits well into the optimum concentration of fertilizers in the soil. It is important that the walls of the pit are vertical. The volume of the pit with conical walls tapering downwards is much less than the calculated one, which can lead to an excessive concentration of fertilizers that is detrimental to the roots of the plant. When applying the recommended quantities of rotted manure, the dose mineral fertilizers are reduced by about half, since organic matter contains phosphorus and potassium, as well as calcium, magnesium, sulfur and other macro- and microelements.

calcium and magnesium

More about calcium and magnesium. Most often in complex fertilizers with trace elements, whether it be "Spring", "Spring-Summer" or "Autumn", calcium is absent. But it is he who neutralizes soil acidity, contributes to the normal development of beneficial soil microflora, including nitrogen-fixing bacteria. Calcium contributes to the normal growth of roots and aerial parts of plants, improves the process of photosynthesis, plays an important role in the movement of carbohydrates. At the same time, calcium itself practically does not move from “adult” organs to young ones. With its deficiency, the growth of new leaves is delayed, light yellow spots appear on them, then the growth point dies off, while the old leaves remain normal.

Fruit crops, especially stone fruits, need calcium and develop better on soils with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction. And in many parts of our country, the soils are acidic and need liming. Calcium not only normalizes acidity, but also, speaking scientific language, coagulates soil colloids, that is, improves the structure of clay soils. This contributes to their better aeration and water permeability, reduces the likelihood of soil crust formation. But for the same reason (coagulation, transformation and binding of silt particles) on sandy soils, poor in clay, liming should be applied with great care. It is preferable to do this after the improvement of such soils with powdered clay (see the April issue of the magazine) and the introduction of peat.

Magnesium is also not present in all complex fertilizers. But it is part of chlorophyll, that is, it participates in the most important process of photosynthesis, the transformation carbon dioxide and water into sugars, promotes the movement of phosphorus in the plant, activates some enzymes. With its deficiency, most crops have a characteristic interveinal chlorosis - the leaf blade turns yellow, while large veins and areas around them remain green. Magnesium, unlike calcium, is mobile in the plant, easily moves to young organs, so its deficiency manifests itself primarily on old leaves.

Of the calcium-containing fertilizers, ground limestone and limestone are most often found on sale. dolomite flour. Pure water practically does not dissolve these substances, but in soil water containing carbon dioxide, they dissolve much better. Dolomite flour, in addition to calcium carbonate, also contains magnesium carbonate (usually from 9 to 20% in terms of MgO), therefore it is considered the preferred fertilizer for almost all fruit, berry and vegetable crops. Do not apply lime fertilizers for gooseberries, as well as for cultures that love acidic soil - blueberries and cranberries.

lime fertilizers

Lime fertilizers, like phosphate fertilizers, move very little in the soil, so they must be carefully embedded in the root layer, evenly mixing with the entire thickness of the soil of the planting pit. The amount of lime applied depends on the acidity of the soil, its composition (loam, sandy loam or peat) and the volume of the pit. On sour clay soil up to 500 g of lime or better dolomite flour is added to a pit with a volume of about 350 l (under an apple or pear tree) (on very acidic and poor soils it is advisable to make wider pits with a diameter of 1.21. -1 kg of dolomite). The application rate on heavy acidic soils for stone fruits is 300–400 g, for berries - 150–200 g. On peat bogs, depending on acidity, the amount of lime fertilizers is increased by 20–30%, and on light soils it is better to limit yourself to half of the recommended norms application after adding clay and peat. Also reduce the dose of lime on slightly acidic soils.

Of course, these figures are indicative. If you apply a smaller or larger dose of fertilizer within reason, nothing bad will happen. Lime fertilizers, due to their very low solubility, are much less dangerous in excess concentration in the soil than nitrogen fertilizers. But there are some subtleties here. Before applying to the soil, neither lime nor dolomite flour can be mixed with manure, nitrogen and phosphate fertilizers, because due to the reaction with calcium carbonate from organics and ammonia fertilizers, part of the nitrogen in the form of ammonia may evaporate, and the properties of superphosphate, in particular solubility, may deteriorate. Therefore, it is better to first mix lime fertilizers with the soil, and only then add manure and mineral fertilizers there.

sign acidic soil on the site - the presence of horsetail and horse sorrel. For a rough estimate of the level of acidity, litmus paper is used, but acidity can be more accurately determined by analyzing the soil in an agrochemical laboratory. An important factor contributing to the increase in soil acidity is the use of physiologically acidic fertilizers, such as potassium sulphate, ammonium sulphate, etc. These fertilizers are salts, of which plants use only cations (potassium and ammonium ions), and the remainder of the acid is stored in the soil and combines with hydrogen ions, acidifying the soil. Therefore, it is desirable to alternate such fertilizers with physiologically alkaline ones, such as ash or (spring) calcium nitrate. Such alternation is one of the foundations of the competent use of fertilizers.

In addition, once every 2-3 years, you can add lime fertilizers to the tree trunks. fruit trees and berry bushes, thoroughly mixing them with the soil to a depth of 20 cm. Of course, the maximum depth of fertilization should be on the periphery trunk circle, and at the trunk of a tree or the base of a bush, it is better not to loosen the soil at all, so as not to damage the roots. Approximate application rate - 200-300 g per 1 sq. m circle. The best time to do this is in the fall. Recommendations for the annual application for stone fruits - 1–2 kg of dolomite flour per trunk circle after harvesting - I consider it quite legitimate, but it is better to first check these recommendations on one tree, then, if the experiment in your site is successful, extend this technique to the rest fruit garden plants.

Variety selection

But back to autumn plantings. No matter how competently and carefully you prepare the planting hole, if a non-hardy plant is purchased, all the work will be in vain. First of all, buy seedlings in trusted places, preferably in nurseries or retail outlets where you or your friends have already taken seedlings and were satisfied with the purchase. Try to purchase only zoned varieties that winter well in your area. Of course, it happens that they bought an ordinary Antonovka, and the Pouring grew white or it’s not known at all. The risk of acquiring regrading, and even brought from the southern regions, increases when buying planting material"on the road", from random sellers. If in your or neighboring village there are craftsmen who plant and grow fruit seedlings, it is safer to negotiate with them. At the very least, the variety will most likely live up to its name and winter well in your conditions.

If groundwater is located close to the soil surface on the site, plants on semi-dwarf rootstocks are preferable than on vigorous ones. After all, even quite winter-hardy varieties, for example, Antonovka ordinary, being grafted onto a vigorous (seed) stock, freezes slightly in a harsh winter due to prolonged autumn growth in nearby waters. Grafted on semi-dwarfs Antonovka vulgaris and other apple trees from ground water are much less affected.

The powerful tap roots of the pear also react negatively to the proximity of water. Therefore, in problem areas, it is better to grow pears on semi-dwarf rootstocks: in the southern regions - on quince, in the middle lane - on mountain ash.

Stone fruits, especially tender ones like cherries and apricots, are more reliable to plant in spring. At the same time, it is possible to prepare and fill the pits with soil and fertilizers (except nitrogen) from the fall. This will save time during spring planting.

Nitrogen fertilizers are applied only in spring. Plants planted in September-October must be fed on melting snow or when the buds swell with urea, ammonium or calcium nitrate (1–1.5 handfuls per plant) on the surface of the trunk circle without embedding into the soil or with minimal loosening. Nitrogen fertilizers are also applied under plants planted in spring in pits prepared and seasoned in autumn.

From the article you will learn how fruit trees are fed in the fall, what to look for, what fertilizers should not be given before winter period. Experienced gardeners in their videos they will reveal the secrets of good harvests.

In summer, during fruiting, trees spend a significant part of their reserves and impoverish the soil. Accordingly, in the fall, after harvesting, fertilizers must be applied so that the tree can prepare for winter and for next year gave a good harvest.

Autumn top dressing of fruit trees

Fertilizing the garden in the fall can be both root and foliar. In the first case, nutrients are applied directly to the soil. Foliar top dressing is carried out by fertilizers diluted in water.

Fertilizers are mineral and organic. In the first case, we are dealing with products chemical industry, which are sold in the form of granules: superamophoska, amophosna, saltpeter, etc. Mineral fertilizers are: humus, compost, ash, chicken manure.

You can add one or the other, or combinations thereof.

A little general provisions. More in spring and summer nitrogen fertilizers. They contribute to the development of leaves, shoots, green mass of plants. In autumn, before winter, this is not necessary. It is better to focus on potash and phosphate fertilizers.

Phosphorus has a positive effect on root growth, and potassium allows plant cells to prepare for winter.

Also, it is not necessary to give the trees copper, manganese, copper after harvesting. Remember that rains and underwater waters are more likely to wash out useful substances from light soils than from heavy clay soils.

Try to have time to fertilize a month before the onset of frost. So the tree will have time to absorb some of the substances and will be ready for winter.

Under an apple tree (or pear) in the fall, you can add 300 grams of superphosphate, the same amount of magnesium. Also, give two hundred grams of potassium sulfate.

Sprinkle fertilizer around the trunk, dig and water. If you can not dig, then you can mulch with peat or sawdust.

Autumn top dressing of fruit trees and shrubs

Plums, apricots are fed according to the following scheme: 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate and 3 of the same spoons of superphosphate are dissolved in a bucket of water. Then 10 liters of such a solution are poured under each tree.

Another feeding scheme

You can feed fruit trees in a different way. To do this, a groove is dug around the trunk, into which (per 1 m²) 7 kilograms of humus, 45 grams of superphosphate and 30 grams of potassium salt are added.

Manure

Use only rotted manure, as fresh manure can scorch tree roots. Spread around the trunks and dig. Or you can dig under the crown from one and a half dozen holes, into which put humus, cover it with earth and pour water over it.

Manure has another advantage - being applied to the soil, it releases heat, and to a certain extent protects the roots of trees from winter frosts.

chicken manure

Dilute chicken manure in water and insist for about 8 days to ferment. Then they dilute it in a bucket of water and pour it under a tree. Pour no more than 3 liters of this liquid fertilizer under one tree.

Ash

Ash is a cheap and rich in trace elements fertilizer. On the square meter garden, add no more than 240 grams of ash. Then dig up so that the wind does not spread the fertilizer throughout the garden.

Ash to a certain extent makes the soil lighter.

Kalimagnesia

Fertilizer available at garden shops. Rich in magnesium and potassium. The solution is prepared according to the instructions on the package and poured under the tree.

Frequency of autumn fertilization

If the soil is poor, then you need to fertilize every year. On rich soils - it is possible through time. If you give both mineral and organic fertilizers, it is logical that their doses should be reduced.

Compared to mineral fertilizers, organic fertilizers decompose more slowly, and the plant will receive useful minerals in the form available exactly when it needs it most - in the spring.

How to fertilize

Since the bulk of the roots is at some distance from the trunk, fertilizers should not be applied directly under the trunk, but retreat 50 cm from it, and humus or minerals should be scattered around.

In addition, after fertilizing, it is desirable to dig up the ground, but doing it right at the trunk is problematic.

If you are afraid to forget to add some minerals, you can use complex ones. Garden shops sell a variety of products.

Conclusion. You learned why fruit trees are fed in the fall. It must be carried out regularly, which will be the key to obtaining a regular harvest. It often happens that pear, plum and other trees bear fruit periodically, once every 2-3 years.

This is because each plant extracts the substances it needs from the soil. If they are not brought there, then the tree may decide to “rest”, and this season will not produce a crop.

And in conclusion, the video is how the autumn feeding of the garden is carried out:

Apple trees especially need proper feeding, because for the full development and growth they need useful substances and trace elements. There may be a lot of young trees in the garden, but in this case you will not get a harvest soon.

When fertilizing the soil around the seedling, you need to be careful. It is very important to prepare a young apple tree for winter. Before fertilizing, inspect the tree for dead branches and insects.

Target autumn feeding seedlings - increasing its resistance to cold weather, because the quantity and quality of the future crop directly depend on this.

organic food

Rotten manure is perfect nutrition for seedlings. Unlike a fresh animal waste product, it does not contain hydrogen sulfide and ammonia. For watering seedlings, use several buckets without a bottom, dug into the ground along the perimeter of the crown. Fill the holes with small pebbles so that the earth does not clog there. So, you can water the plants once a month with a solution of manure or chicken droppings without the risk of damaging the root system. Water and useful trace elements will immediately go to the desired depth.

Trees can be fertilized by covering the soil with a layer of dry straw, foliage, or humus. These materials contribute not only to the enrichment of the earth nutrients but also protect the roots from drying out.



Gardeners successfully use leftover food, weeds, or rotten vegetables to feed trees. Top dressing from organic matter helps to saturate the roots of plants with microelements necessary for growth.

Apple trees do not like mineral fertilizers in large quantities, as they change the level of soil acidity.

Fertilizing seedlings with phosphorus

This stuff plays big role in plant life. Unfortunately, not all gardeners know how to properly apply phosphorus so as not to harm the root system. Apple trees absorb this substance from the soil in the form of insoluble compounds, which increase their resistance to aggressive effects. environment. Fertilizers from phosphorus in the amount of 60 years. should be evenly scattered in a circle, retreating from the tree trunk 20 cm. If the soil is poor, then it is advisable to water the seedlings with slurry.

In autumn, superphosphate and phosphate rock are most often used to feed fruit trees. Fertilizer should be spread on top of the soil after loosening it.

How to improve productivity?

We are constantly getting letters in which amateur gardeners are worried that due to the cold summer this year, a poor harvest of potatoes, tomatoes, cucumbers, and other vegetables. Last year we published TIPS about this. But unfortunately, many did not listen, but some still applied. Here is a report from our reader, we want to advise plant growth biostimulantswhich will help increase the yield by up to 50-70%.

Read...

Apple tree care secrets

potash fertilizers

Potassium supplementation is applied in the form of a solution. It is best to spray apple trees at the end of the growing season.

In dry weather, the solution should be weaker, the dose of the substance for 1 seedling is 20 g. for 10 liters of water. Apple trees absorb copper sulphate, zinc, manganese and magnesium well, as well as boric acid.

Feeding with potassium increases the quantity and quality of the future crop, and also contributes to the resistance of the seedling to fungal diseases.

foliar nutrition

Preferably in autumn last time process the leaves of the tree harmful insects. To do this, take 500 years. urea and 10 liters of water. The nutrient solution should be filtered with gauze 3 times.



Don't forget to also spray the fallen leaves under the tree. This must be done before the onset of the first cold weather. Apple trees can be treated with urea 2 times. Thus, they will be protected from insects next year.

Top dressing foliar allows the use of cow dung. To prepare the solution, mix 500 g. mullein and 10 liters of water.

Feeding with wood ash very useful, as it contains such valuable trace elements as phosphorus, potassium, calcium. Take 1 cup of ash and pour boiling water over the mixture.

In small quantities, the use of complex mineral fertilizers for spraying trees is allowed. Fertilizer "Kemira-Lux" is suitable for this purpose.

Top dressing with compost

Peat is useful organic food for most plants. Thanks to high content humus in its composition, the soil is enriched with nutrients, and also passes air and moisture well. root system plants develop fully in favorable conditions.



For feeding seedlings, low-lying and transitional types of peat should be chosen. But in no case should you scatter it around the tree!

You need to start creating peat top dressing in advance. In order to properly prepare food for trees from peat, add some manure, sawdust, tops and weeds to it. Then stir the mixture until smooth. If you can not add manure to the pile, then in this case you can use chicken manure.

Now cover the compost heap by covering it with branches and other materials. In a year, you will have complete nutrition for plants. Peat fertilizer for them is much more valuable than ordinary manure.

In autumn, peat is used to feed seedlings by adding a small amount of it to the dug up soil. Some gardeners advise fertilizing them with trees even after the onset of cold weather.

How to care for an apple tree in autumn

Top dressing with limestone

If you decide to use soil with a high level of acidity for planting a seedling, then in September it is time to think about adding lime materials to it. Calcium makes the soil fertile and also increases its water permeability.

For liming the soil, take natural materials, for example, dolomite flour or cement dust. It is important to know that such substances are applied to the soil once every 5 years.

It is advisable to use finely ground limestone to feed the tree. It should be added along with sawdust, carefully digging up the soil.

Seedlings will receive a sufficient amount of calcium, which will favorably affect their growth and future harvest.

The benefits of manganese for fruit trees

How to protect seedlings from wintering insects on them? This can be done by treating trees with a solution of potassium permanganate. Thanks to its magnesium and potassium, it is an excellent nutrition for plants.

In 1 bucket of water, dissolve 1 teaspoon of potassium permanganate and the same boric acid. Then carefully treat the trunk and leaves of the seedling with the resulting mixture. Do not spray trees with potassium permanganate solution too often to avoid reducing soil fertility.


The benefits of all types of fertilizers for seedlings

Top dressing directly affects the future harvest. Apple trees love quality nutrition, which increases their resistance to low temperatures. It is desirable to fertilize them already at the end of August. Before fertilizing, do not forget to remove dried branches and leaves from the seedling, as well as insects.

Freezing of the soil worsens the condition of the root system, so you need to take care of feeding the tree in advance. Proper preparation seedlings for winter - a guarantee of obtaining good harvest in future.

There are many apple trees in the garden, but Special attention should be given to seedlings. Fertilizer should be chosen depending on weather conditions.

In autumn, rain contributes to a decrease in efficiency foliar feeding trees. But thanks to rainwater, fertilizers applied to the soil are better absorbed by the root system.
A young garden in a few years will please you with fragrant fruits.

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