2013-06-11

Summer residents, whose plots are located near the city limits, know firsthand how difficult it is to find organic fertilizers. Therefore, they use mineral, and most often complex, which include trace elements. Of course, everyone knows the benefits that microelements bring with them. But not everyone knows that only a certain amount of them in the soil has a positive effect on the future harvest.

How do trace elements get into the soil?

Zinc. The use of galvanized utensils for storing water, which is used for irrigation, and for preparing top dressings, leads to the ingress of this element into the soil. It should be noted that also absolutely unsuitable for irrigation and rainwater flowing from galvanized roofs.

Manganese. This chemical element is part of potassium permanganate, which we generously use to prepare a solution not only for watering seedlings, but also for plants already in greenhouses and garden beds. In this way, we ourselves destroy all the positive microflora of the soil and humus.

Copper. Contained in blue vitriol and Bordeaux liquid, to which we resort very often, but not always in moderation.

In general, mineral fertilizers should be applied to the soil only when the sod is developed. And with the further regular use of ash and organics, they are, in principle, not needed.

Remember that when you apply an excess of mineral fertilizers to the soil, you thus cause great harm to both the earth and the plants on it. Often, gardeners in the fight against pests use watering with saline solutions. After such procedures, the soil loses its structure, begins to crack in the sun and it is simply impossible to loosen it.

Our tips!

Ammonium fertilizers, as well as ammophos, urea, potassium chloride and mixtures based on them, oxidize the soil better than others. The optimum acidity for many plants is 5.5 - 6.0 pH.

Almost all mineral fertilizers increase soil acidity. And in order to bring the pH back to normal, it is necessary to add the same amount of lime to the ground. Therefore, when using fertilizers, it is necessary to strictly monitor the acidity of the soil. It is helped to normalize various organic fertilizers, the main of which are manure, bird droppings and compost. In addition to them, chalk, lime, dolomite and phosphorus flour can also be used.

Calcium, when added to the soil, improves the structure of the latter. As a result, even the clay of peatlands begins to coagulate, seize into lumps and, as a result, no longer stick together. In addition to all this, many useful elements for nutrition become available to plants. And therefore productivity increases significantly even without any additional fertilizers.

Therefore, in order for the soil on your site to be healthy and bring a rich harvest, the following rules must be observed:

1. Apply microelements and mineral fertilizers in moderation.

2. In no case do not burn polyvinyl chloride in the area, which, when burned, releases the strongest poison, dioxin.

3. Do not use in any capacity soap solutions based on synthetic detergents. They have one important feature - they are stored in the soil for decades, from which the earth simply suffocates.

4. Best use natural remedies.

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Mineral fertilizers: how not to spoil the soil! How and how to cultivate the land in the fall from diseases and pests: general rules for tillage and effective folk remedies What to do to kill the soil

So that everything grows in the garden

Grass-ant for you, boxes full for us. I take, I take. I take, I take. I profit, you lose. Amen.

They read in the spring, in the morning in someone else's garden, in the evening in their own, for a young month. Where they read - there will be no harvest, but you will have a good one.

This text is an introductory piece.

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To those who go to plant in the garden Before you leave the house, step with your right foot on your left foot and say: I will give the earth, and the earth will give it back to me. And no one will stop me in this. Amen.

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To work in the garden Lord, help! If only the Lord would give birth to the earth so that both me and the people would be. Give birth, God, to every share! Pronounced when sowing.

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There is so much information that in it you will definitely find something that will respond to your inner personal desire and decision, because as they say: be sure to listen to all the advice and make only an independent decision. Once the site was bought, then there are already plans. Plan your planting: where are the apple trees - nuts, where are the bushes - berries, where are the paths, where are the flowers, where are the greenhouses, where are the beds, where is the lawn, where is the recreation area. And already proceeding from this, grow your soil. In the literal sense, it must be created. If you can buy rotted manure, this is the best solution. If you can buy cheap fresh manure, then you can, let it ripen if the smell does not bother you. If you are not ready for the presence of manure, then organic matter that will fluff up heavy earth can easily be obtained from sawdust if you have them and black lowland peat in the area. As previously written, a lot depends on the characteristics of the site, if it does not flood with water, then it is not necessary to raise much, otherwise it will dry out in the summer. The cut grass can be collected in a heap, or you can choose a certain area on which you will dump it all summer, level it, trample it down, and dig it up in the spring and the soil will be more pliable. Cover some part of the meadow with something dense and heavy: old carpet, linoleum, cardboard boxes will do, dig it up in the spring, it will be easy. You will also have to buy land, with it you will fill the beds made from any material: boards or slate. The purchased land is not fertile, it will also be improved for two years. If there are water bodies nearby, drag rotted reeds from there, if there is a forest nearby, then leaves and branches from there, a chopper is always useful. Instead of sand, I bought expanded clay, even a large fraction is suitable, moss from the forest: sphagnum and just green like that, I bought birch charcoal, it is not cheap, but I really liked it in business, read about such a concept as TERRA PRETA, you will still gain knowledge. And all this is plentifully and systematically watered with humates, they are now available. Waste can be composted, but now I am making some furrows, like potato furrows, and immediately put kitchen waste in them, cover them with grass, sawdust, earth, and everything is recycled in the soil, there is no need to drag it from the compost heap. You can water with a solution of urea or an accelerator for composting. Oats will help out: pick up a piece of earth as much as you can, sprinkle abundantly with oats, it is better to fill it with sawdust lightly and water it, or you can stir and water it with a rake, apply spring fertilizers, or just urea for better growth. Leave it in the winter, you don’t even need to mow and you won’t recognize your land. Good luck!!! I hope that at least something is useful!

How to treat the soil, the earth? Diseases, diseases, soil treatment. Fertility restoration. Reasons for fertility decline

Tips for preparing the soil, restoring its nutritional properties. How to restore decreased fertility? What to do if the earth is sick, the plants wither? Practical experience. (10+)

How to cure the soil? Soil diseases. Fertility restoration

The material is an explanation and addition to the article:
Do-it-yourself fertile agro soil.
Need plant soil? Do it yourself. Practical experience of cultivating and cultivating agro-soil plot for garden beds, household farming, growing plants.

It is not uncommon for crop yields to drop sharply on a piece of land. In this case, it is customary to say that the earth is sick. Let's try to figure out what lies under this concept, and what can be done with it.

Soil diseases

Infection with bacteria and fungi. As plants grow, they can get sick. After harvesting, bacteria and fungi remain in the soil. Some of them die in the cold, but some can remain in the soil for many years and infect new plantings. A sign is the appearance in young plants of diseases that were in plants of the previous year (spots on the leaves, decay, etc.)

exhaustion. As the selection of nutrients by plants, the land is depleted, loses fertility. This disease is characterized by a general stunted seedlings for no apparent reason (there are no pests, diseases, and the plant is still weak and stunted)

Structure breaking. The earth can become hard, heavy, form layers, crack, erode. This defect is very easy to diagnose. The soil looks rough, cracked, crusted and cracked, and hard lumps to the touch. Such soil is difficult to dig. It does not retain moisture after watering, it dries quickly.

weeds. Weeds can take root in the garden. A small number of weeds are always present, but sometimes there are a lot of weeds, they clog all the crops. Then we say that the earth is overgrown.

Soil fertility restoration

Eco-friendly slow way

The resulting mixture rots. At the same time, such aggressive waste products of decay bacteria are released, then other bacteria, fungi, small pests and weed seeds do not have a chance. People say they burn. Additionally, the earth is enriched with nutrients.

The described method has only one drawback. It is possible to plant cultivated plants only after complete decay (burnout) of the mixture. And the mixture very often does not have time to burn out in one winter. Nothing can be planted in under-rotted soil, everything will die. There is no reliable way to determine that a reaction is complete. Soil temperature can be measured as a feature. For measurement, we will select a control plot of soil meter by meter, for the winter we will cover it in the same way as the cultivated soil. In the spring, we measure the soil temperature with a thermometer in the center of our square and in the cultivated area. Compare. If the temperature in the center of the control square differs from the temperature of our mixture by less than a degree, then most likely the reaction is over. But there are no guarantees. The reaction may simply not have started to the right extent yet. Success can only be guaranteed if you miss the season. That is, leave the soil under a layer of insulation to rest for one summer, and plant it the next spring.

Eco-friendly fast way

There is a much faster way to treat the soil from harmful microflora (bacteria, fungi). However, it requires the use of toxic chemicals. Its essence is that the soil is treated with a chemical fungicide, for example, foundationol. Processing is carried out twice with an interval of 7 - 8 days. After the second treatment, you should wait 2.5 weeks for the foundation to decompose. Next, a biological fungicide is introduced (beneficial microorganisms that will live on our site). I bring Fitosporin. This method can be applied even if the site is occupied, if trees, bushes and other perennials already grow on it. The described method will not harm the plants. .

Other diseases

Violation of the soil structure is treated by applying compost, digging and growing special plants. I grow ground pear. It grows on any soil. In autumn, a bed with an earthen pear must be dug up along with the roots of this plant. They will be good fertilizer.

There will be a separate article regarding the fight against large pests (moles, bears, etc.). Subscribe to the news to stay informed.

A good way to radically control weeds is to treat the beds with boiling water before planting cultivated plants. Just keep in mind that this can only be done with small plots of land. This way you will boil the worms. If this happens in a small area, then there is nothing to worry about. Boiled meat will become fertilizer, and new worms will come from the neighboring land. But if a significant area is treated in this way, then the ecological balance can be greatly disturbed. In any case, this method is much safer than herbicides. By the way, herbicides also kill worms.

Boiling water is a great way to prepare soil for seedlings and houseplants. If you take land from your garden for these purposes, and do not buy it, then hot water will get rid of weeds, pests and harmful bacteria.

Unfortunately, errors occur periodically in articles, they are corrected, articles are supplemented, developed, new ones are being prepared.

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