Shingles are still used for shingle roofing and are popular among those who want to live in environmentally friendly wooden houses. Shingled roofs are made from shingles and are in no way inferior in terms of durability and reliability to tiled roofs.

Do-it-yourself shingles are valued in a certain way.

For this, logs with a diameter of 20-25 cm from hard rock such as larch, oak, ash... For budget option suitable pine or aspen (they do not burst when dry).

The logs are sawn into 40 cm chocks and dried for 6-12 months.

To split the shingles, you need to prepare 2 axes - one with a narrow blade, the other with a wide (meat) one, with which the chocks are pricked on the shingles. It is in the fact that shingles are chipped (strictly along the fibers), and not sawn on a circular, lies the secret of its durability.

You also need a massive mallet, heavier.

Shingles are made 2-3 cm thick (by eye). To do this, they apply a wide ax to the chock and hit the butt with a sharp blow with a mallet.

The resulting shingle needs to be processed (with an ax with a narrow blade) - give it a flat shape (level the plane)

In order for the shingles to fit snugly against each other during installation, a chamfer is removed on both sides at an angle of 45 degrees in opposite directions.

To prevent rainwater from soaking into closed end shingles, and quickly rolled off it, one end of the shingles (open) is cut off at an acute angle.

As a result, 3-4 shingles are obtained from one chock.

For one shingle roof slope small house you will need about 1 cube of wood.

Such a roof will be very cheap. Even compared to the cube edged board it will be half the price, not to mention the high cost of modern roofing materials.

A roof made of chipped shingles does not need to be treated with antiseptics.

In previous years, it was difficult to find a more common roofing material than aspen shingles. In the southern regions of our country, houses were covered with reeds and straw, and in the central and northern regions - with aspen shingles. Aspen grew and grows everywhere, and shingles, properly harvested and laid on the roof, reliably covered both peasant houses and wooden churches for decades. At present, shingle roofing is considered elite, as are straw, reed, slate or natural tiles. There are few craftsmen who have preserved ancient traditions, and their work is not cheap.

Methods for making shingles

Shingles are thin wooden plates with an average thickness of 3-8 mm, a width of 80-160 mm and a length of 350-450 mm. Not only aspen is suitable for its manufacture, but also pine, spruce, larch. Trees can be used with a small diameter, the main thing is that they have even trunks from which you can saw logs, somewhere 40-45 cm long, without knots. Chocks with a cut core are used to make shingles, because it is most prone to cracking. To do this, each block of wood is split in half or into four parts, the core is cut out, and the rest is split into thin plates, which are shingles. You can harvest shingles in spring, summer and autumn. The bark from the logs must be removed before work, otherwise the shingle roof will rot very quickly.

There is a way industrial production shingles, when the log is first sawn into logs of double length, then a beam is made from them according to the width of the shingle, and then the beam is unraveled into shingles. Since the length of such shingles is on average 80 cm, it can be used on roofs of a large area. For ordinary roofs, a long shingle is not used; it is sawn in half before use. Sawn shingles serve less than chipped ones, since the wood does not split naturally, retaining its fibers, but is cut. Accordingly, its structure loses its integrity, so if you have a desire to make shingles with your own hands, use the old fashioned way splitting. To do this, you can peel the chocks with a special plow - a knife with two handles, but this is too meditative big roof it takes a long time to prepare shingles in this way. Can be used the simplest machine for the production of shingles, which was previously called "mahalo".

Ancient lathe for the production of shingles

The machine for shingles is made as follows:

We take a log 3-4 m long and 120-160 mm in diameter and drill a hole 3 mm in diameter at a distance of 20 cm from the end.
We insert a metal kingpin into the hole, which should move freely in it, the length of the kingpin should be such that the log can be fixed with it in a wooden plank before starting work, as in the figure.
At 1 m from the end with a hole for the king pin, we fasten a knife along the log - a bracket 60 cm long, at an angle that will make it possible to remove a shingle of the desired thickness from the chock.
At the second end, a handle is driven into the log, which has a length of 40 cm. With the help of this handle, the log moves during operation.

The wooden chopping block, into which the kingpin is driven, must have such a length and width that it is possible to lay a block of wood under the shingles on it, and the “waving” does not pull it off during operation. If the tree from which it was planned to make the shingles has dried up, then it is soaked or boiled for 30 minutes in a day iron barrel with boiling water. The second method is more applicable for coniferous trees.

But the preparation did not always go like this. old methods, for example, in 1939 in the USSR, the inventor V.N. Glazunov received a patent for a machine for manufacturing shingles in an industrial way.

If you like wooden roof, but you are not going to manufacture it yourself, it is enough to contact companies that already know how to make shingles, and do it professionally and quickly. You can also order installation there, at the same time you will receive a guarantee on the material and work performed. But if you are not looking for easy ways, then the next chapter is for you.

Laying shingles on the roof

The angle of inclination of the roof under shingles should be at least 15 degrees. The crate can be solid or in increments of no more than 10 cm. Since the wooden planks are lightweight, you can take 5x5 cm bars or poles with a diameter of 6-7 cm for the crate. Roof shingles can be laid in two, three, four or five layers. In the first case, each subsequent plate covers the previous half, in the second - by 2/3, in the third - by 3/4, in the fourth - by 4/5. A two-layer coating is used for non-residential buildings, and all the rest - for residential.

Regarding the installation of a waterproofing layer, there are two mutually exclusive opinions. According to the first, waterproofing in the form of roofing material must be laid on the crate, according to the second, waterproofing is not needed at all. If you stick to the traditions of the old Russian masters, then really waterproofing is not needed and a solid crate is also, because natural construction material must be able to "breathe" in order to function properly. A solid crate and waterproofing will simply not allow this to be done, and the roof will begin to rot.

It is necessary to lay shingles from the cornice overhang to the ridge. Since the slopes of the roof are the most vulnerable place, additional boards 35 - 40 cm wide must be laid there, and in addition, on the slopes, the number of layers of shingles should be one more than on the entire roof. The planks are fastened with special dangling nails 4-6 cm long, which are boiled in drying oil before work.

The production of shingles with the help of splitting forms a plate in such a way that if you bend it slightly, then the fibers - "stabs" will rise. The first lower row of plates is placed so that these "stabs" look up, and all other rows on the roof are placed so that the "stabs" look down. The most difficult thing is to lay the plates in the valleys, you will need additional layers of shingles and the installation of auxiliary battens.

Modern materials that imitate shingles

Manufacturers of modern roofing materials offer various options for imitation shingles. For example, copper shingles - what is it? In fact, this material does not even remotely resemble wooden records. Copper plates have various sizes in the form of rhombuses, "fish scales", squares. The thickness of copper for them is less than a millimeter. The plates have special "ears" for which they are attached to the crate. The price of such a coating is comparable to the cost of wooden plates made almost by hand.

American manufacturers of bituminous shingles offer shingle collections. But, besides this, there is also a polymer imitation of PVC shingles, resins, mineral additives, which outwardly completely repeats the color, size and shape of wooden plates, you can see an example in the photo. Three colors are available: Weathered Grey, New Cedar and Cedar Brown. The material combines the appearance of an antique coating and the latest technology chemical industry. There is even plinth siding, which is made of PVC and is used for sheathing the lower part of the walls of houses.

Wooden roof structures - a brief overview of the various options and shingles laying technology. Do-it-yourself shingles - manufacturing with a machine, laying Making shingles for roofing

Shingles or shingles - one of original views roofs. This is a rare, elite and expensive material. As it turned out, it was difficult to find a roofer-draper. Therefore, I will share personal experience do-it-yourself shingles mining.

Tools

To make shingles, you will need good tool. At one time, I did not find a suitable tool in the store. I had to make it myself.

Main fixture

By trial and error, having studied a bunch of special forums and reviewing a ton of videos, I made three knives of different sizes.

Small, 20 cm long, I made from a piece of metal and sharpened on lathe. It will be needed to remove small knots, bark.

I made a medium-sized knife from a car spring. Its length is 35 cm. This is the main tool in the manufacture of shingles. I used them the most. However, he could not withstand the load. Since the design of the spring involves holes, plus the length of the cutter played a negative role.

For the large knife, I used a piece of hardened metal 12mm thick, 50cm long, 10cm wide.

Sharpening angle - the secret of great-grandfathers

The most convenient sharpening angle is 30°. With such a tip, it is easy to chip aspen, oak, spruce, pine and poplar. I would advise sharpening on one side. The word shingles itself comes from to tear, tear off. And with sharp, sharpened on both sides of the tools, you will prick or cut it.

Percussion instrument

I don't use a metal sledgehammer or hammer as percussion. Because with constant impacts, the surface breaks, the knife will lose its plane. And this is not convenient in the manufacture of shingles. I recommend using a wooden mallet.

Choosing a material

To make a good shingle, you need the right approach to choosing wood. Pay attention to the butt and the trunk of the tree. There should be no large knots, depressions or damage on the surface. The trunk should be even, not rotten, the structure is close to ideal.

The end or inner part of the barrel must also be free of defects.

Shingle manufacturing process

Here it is worth saying that I got shingles of the following sizes: length 35 cm, width 5 cm, thickness 1 cm. And now I will describe the process in detail.

Step 1 - preparation

The first thing to do is to split the round timber. It is easier to do this not from the end, but from the side. I take an ax and begin to gradually hammer it with a wooden mallet.

I spied on this method from Siberian hunters who go to the taiga for the winter and make skis from pine or Christmas trees.

Splitting the log into two parts, I examine it inside. It should not have defects, large resin ducts, bark beetles. The structure must be even.

Then, I split one of the halves of the log into two more equal parts.

Step 2 - Manufacturing

We turn to the manufacture of the plates themselves. I take a large cutter and a wooden mallet. Gently tapping the knife on one side or the other, I tear off the plate. Thickness is not more than 8 - 12 mm. You need to beat not just vertically down, but a little on yourself. In order not to cut and tear off. When extracting shingles, it is important to put the chubrak with the butt down. So the blade will move along the line of growth of the fibers. The shingles will turn out smooth and not ruffy.

Step 3 - Sanding

In the manufacture of shingles, it is not possible to achieve a smooth and even surface of the plate. For a better fit, I use a two-handed knife, it is called a strut. I put the plate with the butt down and start to trim everything superfluous. I also remove the bark for them.

And for better water flow, I chamfer at an angle of 45 ° from the top of the plate.

Laying shingles

When laying the shingle, there is a rule - the butt should look down. As we make it, so we lay it down. If you lay the plates in the opposite direction, water and snow will linger, and the roof will leak.

Shingles laying methods

The first way is overlapping. The plates are stacked on top of each other, about one third. This method is the simplest and easiest.

The second way is multilayer styling. The first layer is laid flat. The distance between the dies in one row is 3-5 mm.

The next layer covers the joints of the first row. And so on. Four or five layers are laid in this way. This method can be used to make the roof of a house, terrace, veranda.

When making shingles for the first time, you need to be patient. However, having gained experience, you can make an unusual and environmentally friendly version of the roof with your own hands.

All large quantity people strive to make their homes natural. Moreover, we have materials that our ancestors used. The first one is wood. Many technologies have come down to us from them. So, for example, when installing log cabins, we still use the techniques that were developed centuries ago. The roof was no exception. Today, wooden roofs can be seen more and more often not only on old houses or domes, but also on solid houses and baths. Both wooden buildings and wooden roofs are becoming more and more popular, even as new, faster and much cheaper technologies are emerging.

With the manufacture of roofing and roofing wooden materials will take a long time to travel. And the wooden roofing materials themselves take a long time to make, and the flooring of such a roof is a long process. But everything can be done with your own hands, with an ax, a hammer and a pair of blades. Of course, it will take a lot of time, patience and wood.

From the name it is clear that this type of natural roofing material was once torn by hand. They did this with a long wedge-shaped blade and a hammer or mallet, which they hit on the blade.

Used when working with the blade wood conifers: it is softer and pricks more easily. At the same time, smooth trunks without knots were chosen, which were kept for drying for at least 3 years. After that, they sawed them into logs about 40 cm long. They removed the bark from them and began to make shreds.

But shingles are not only coniferous, they are made from aspen and linden. Their wood is denser, you can’t split it with your hands. To do this, they used a special "machine" - mahalo. These are two logs large diameter(12-16 cm), fastened together with a pivot. On the lower one, a device was made for jamming logs, on the upper one, a blade was attached horizontally. The distance from the blade to the log determines the thickness of the blade.

This is a fragment of the work of the "machine" - mahala

You can chip on dry wood, or soaked. To make it easier to make thin shreds - no more than 3 mm, prepared logs were soaked overnight.

The prepared block of wood was fixed in a transverse position, after which the upper log began to be waved from side to side. The blade first cuts the wood, and then it breaks off along the fibers. To make it easier to wave, you can tie a rope to the handle, throw it over your shoulder. So the hands fall lower, and it is easier to work.

It is in appearance that one can distinguish shingles made manually or on a machine. At hand made top part it turns out even - the blade cut, and the lower one - wavy - as it came off along the fibers. Made on machine tools, it has a smooth and smooth surface along the entire length.

If we talk about which is better - manual or factory-made, then preference is given to manual. Although it is not ideal (many people like imperfection), it lasts longer. The fact is that when splitting, the fibers are not destroyed, and therefore such a shingle can, as they say, stand for 100 years. In sawn, the fibers are cut, water flows into them and the decomposition process begins.

Way and order of laying

Masters say that correct styling no additional layers are needed. After all, shingles fit into three to five layers. So no rain can wet it. Wood itself copes remarkably well with both waterproofing and ventilation. Films will only interfere with natural ventilation.

The shingles are approximately 35-45 cm long, 5-12 cm wide, and 3-8 mm thick. It is stacked in several layers one on top of the other. Layers are from three to five. The colder the region, or the stronger winds, the thicker the roof should be.

Depending on how many layers there will be, choose the step of the crate. It, in principle, can be solid, but with gaps of 5 mm between the slats - for good ventilation.

It is convenient to align the edge along the lace stretched from edge to edge. The planks are stacked one to the other, sometimes with a slight approach. Each is nailed with a roofing nail, preferably galvanized. When the use of tribute was ubiquitous, they did special nails thinner than conventional ones. Before use, they were boiled in drying oil. Such fasteners have not rusted for decades.

The shingles are laid from the bottom / up, the first row is along the cornice overhang. It should go beyond the crate (stick out) by 3-5 cm. So the shingles will also protect the crate, otherwise it will darken from moisture and may begin to rot. planks different widths need to alternate, so the thickness of the roof will be more uniform.

Turn the shingles so that the fibers look down. So the water will roll, and not flow into the wood. If done incorrectly, it will quickly turn black and fall apart. The direction of the fibers is clearly visible if the board is slightly bent.

Shorter boards are placed under the shingles of the first row. If this is not done, it will turn out bent down. Therefore, there, firstly, an additional beam is nailed (if the crate is not continuous), and secondly, two additional layers are laid. How it looks can be seen in the photo.

Having reached the ridge, the shingles are cut to the required size. After all the necessary dies have been fixed, the skate is closed with two long boards.

Shingle and shingle roofing

From all other wooden roofing materials it can be distinguished by its triangular profile: one side of the plank is decently thicker than the other. To obtain this shape, the wood is split in the radial direction.

This shingle has a triangular profile and a groove at the wider end.

On the thickened side, a wedge-shaped recess is made into which the narrow edge of the next plank is inserted. Thus, a very reliable roof is obtained. Roofing on residential buildings is done in two layers, over outbuildings - in one.

The dimensions of the shingles are approximately the same: 30-45 cm long, 6-12 cm wide. It is not easy to determine the thickness due to the triangular shape.

Gaunt is also sawn and chipped. Sawn is less durable, although it looks more neat. Larch and spruce showed themselves best in the operation of such roofs. Slightly worse - pine and aspen.

Under the crate, bars 50 * 50 mm or 60 * 60 mm are used. And all because the weight turns out to be considerable, especially if it is covered with shingles in two layers.

It is not necessary to use a shingle that is too dry: when wet, it can swell and lose its tightness. If the wood is too dry, it is soaked for several hours before laying. Only the purchased material cannot be mounted immediately: not all grooves and ridges will fit together. Therefore, it is first sorted out and trimmed.

Laying starts from the roof overhang. A board is nailed to the eaves, it should protrude a little - the first row of wooden tiles will rest against it. It is laid from shortened boards - 30 cm, at the top it is attached to the first bar of the crate. The second row is laid so as to overlap the joint of the first, and the nail head must also be closed (it is also desirable to find them thinner than usual, but with a wide hat).

There are many ways to lay the shingle, in any case it looks very decorative. Sometimes it is painted, but then the coloring must be carried out before laying. Without treatment, the wood will soon turn gray, but it does not lose its water-repellent properties. Our ancestors to keep appearance roofs, impregnated it with melted resin. The question is where to get enough resin today.

Shindel

This is one of the options for shingles, but with its own characteristics. He came to us from Europe. It is made from sawlogs of large diameter - from 40 cm to 805 cm. More often - from larch. Trunks without knots are divided into blocks, from which the sapwood is removed. Then they are divided into quarters, each of them into chopping blocks. Already the block with a blade and a mallet is divided into a shindel - wood plates from 6 to 15 mm thick.

Then each plate is trimmed so that the ends are even and the planks fit snugly. But that's not all. Now the part that will lie under the upper rows is cut off - it becomes thinner. The outer edge of the plank may also change. It is either chamfered at about 45 ° or given one of the shapes.

After the shingle is finished, it is bundled and left to dry. Ideal humidity for styling is about 25%.

It turns out that each board is processed manually, and repeatedly. It is clear that such roofing material is not cheap. Is it possible to do it yourself? Basically, you can. But it will take a lot of time.

plowshare

This is also handmade, but even more complex: the plowshare has a non-linear shape. It is made specifically to decorate the domes of churches and chapels.

There are special patterns for each row of wooden tiles. The process is also not easy. How they do it today in one of the monasteries, see the video.

Plank roof

Tes - coniferous boards, which were also initially pricked, and then hewn with axes (hence the name) to more or less even sizes. It behaves normally when the roof slope is from 18° to 45°.

Today, you can also find chopped wood or make it yourself, and then cover the roof of the bath. The technology does not differ from those described above, only in the size of the blocks: they should be around a meter. The size of the tesa is about a meter long, 15-20 cm wide. It is better not to make it wider: they warp more and crack more often. Often one or two grooves are made on the front surface of the boards, along which flows rainwater.

Split the wood along the radius - from the edges to the center. Then all the irregularities that formed during the split are removed with an ax. The side and end faces of the boards are aligned.

Two installation methods:

Two rows of boards, closely fitted one to the other. The top row is laid so as to overlap the seams of the first.
Vacuum laying. Tes is not laid close, but retreating ½ or 2/5 of the width. The second row is laid on top. This method is more economical, but it is more likely to get a current roof during shrinkage.

But when laying the tesa with your own hands, there are tricks. The first row of boards is laid with the convexity of annual rings up, the second - on the contrary, down. The first row is fastened with a nail in the middle, the second - with two along the edges. So when drying out and warping, a more even roof will turn out.

learning a trade

L. Zubarev

The shingles are planed and chipped. A shingle is planed from aspen or linden square chocks with a length of 25 ... 30 cm and a section of 10 × 15 ... 20 cm. special knife. With the help of this device, shingles 0.5 cm thick are gouged. Of course, one shoulder at the lever where the knife is located is shorter than the other.

The roof is covered with shingles along a continuous crate in several layers, overlapping the shingles of each layer (according to the principle of fish scales).

Chipped shingles are made exclusively from pine, and the wood at the blanks should

Elk makes up the main part of the wood of the trunk. If there is no condo pine, and it is rare even in the taiga, shingles are made from ordinary pine, with a diameter of 40 ... 50 cm or more. It is not scary if the core of the pine is slightly rotted, since only the outlying part of the log is used.

The log is cut into chocks 1.2 m long (slate length), they are pricked with an ax and wedges along the radius, that is, from the edges to the center (the size of the chipped chocks along the wide edge is 15 ... 20 cm).

To obtain a chipped shingle, a special knife is required, which is usually made from a spring. The length of such a knife is 45 cm, width 6…8 cm, thickness 3…4 mm. At one end of the knife, a sleeve is provided (welded or bent from the same strip) (Fig. for wooden handle(handle diameter 4…5 cm, length 50…60 cm).

They prick shingles like this: they put a chock on the priest and, from

Pic. 1. Knife for chipped shingles

Rice. 2. Fastening shingles with nails (1) with wire (2)

be straight-grained and without branches (the butt of the tree is best).

From a pine the basket in life is irreplaceable.

Note that the highest quality shingles come from condo pine. This pine tree in the forest is distinguished from others by its smooth, light yellow bark. The wood of the condo pine is fine-layered, resinous. Sapwood - the outer less dense layer of wood lying directly under the bark - is quite narrow, its thickness is 1.5 ... 2 cm.

Shingles or shingles are one of the original types of roofing. This is a rare, elite and expensive material. As it turned out, it was difficult to find a roofer-draper. Therefore, I will share my personal experience of extracting shingles with my own hands.

Tools

To make a shingle, you will need a good tool. At one time, I did not find a suitable tool in the store.

Find a common language with nature

I had to make it myself.

Main fixture

By trial and error, having studied a bunch of special forums and reviewing a ton of videos, I made three knives of different sizes.

Small, 20 cm long, I made from a piece of metal and sharpened on a lathe. It will be needed to remove small knots, bark.

For the large knife, I used a piece of hardened metal 12mm thick, 50cm long, 10cm wide.

Sharpening angle - the secret of great-grandfathers

Percussion instrument

Choosing a material

The end or inner part of the barrel must also be free of defects.

Shingle manufacturing process

Here it is worth saying that I got shingles of the following sizes: length 35 cm, width 5 cm, thickness 1 cm. And now I will describe the process in detail.

Step 1 - preparation

The first thing to do is to split the round timber. It is easier to do this not from the end, but from the side. I take an ax and begin to gradually hammer it with a wooden mallet.

I spied on this method from Siberian hunters who go to the taiga for the winter and make skis from pine or Christmas trees.

Splitting the log into two parts, I examine it inside. It should not have defects, large resin ducts, bark beetles. The structure must be even.

Then, I split one of the halves of the log into two more equal parts.

Step 2 - Manufacturing

Step 3 - Sanding

And for better water flow, I chamfer at an angle of 45 ° from the top of the plate.

Laying shingles

Shingles laying methods

The first way is overlapping. The plates are stacked on top of each other, about one third. This method is the simplest and easiest.

The second way is multilayer styling. The first layer is laid flat. The distance between the dies in one row is 3-5 mm.

The next layer covers the joints of the first row. And so on. Four or five layers are laid in this way. This method can be used to make the roof of a house, terrace, veranda.

When making shingles for the first time, you need to be patient. However, having gained experience, you can make an unusual and environmentally friendly version of the roof with your own hands.

Scientists believe that people learned weaving much earlier than pottery. From long flexible branches of various thicknesses, he wove dwellings and outbuildings, fences, furniture, sleigh and cart bodies, as well as baskets that had the most diverse purposes.

A basket is the all-Russian name for a container, which in each region had its own characteristics in manufacturing and appearance.

Without baskets, these universal wicker vessels, it is difficult to imagine the life of a Russian peasant. In the second half of the 19th - early 20th century. wickerwork was widespread. These baskets, various in form and purpose, are containers with one or two handles for picking berries, mushrooms, vegetables, nuts, carrying and storing various supplies, as well as household items.

Basket weaving from pine chips

They were indispensable for harvesting and storing food. Women carried baskets to the river to rinse clothes. There were also such baskets with which they went on a long journey.

Baskets were made from bark, roots, twigs, straw, stems. They could be rectangular, square, oval, hemispherical, with an open top and closed, with lids. various designs or without lids. Almost every villager could, if necessary, weave a basket needed on the farm, using the simplest weaving techniques. Individual craftsmen wove baskets for every taste and not only for themselves, but also for sale. Depending on the purpose, they were given a wide variety of shapes, decorated with wicker patterns from painted rods. Various weaving techniques, passed down from generation to generation, gradually improved, becoming more rational.

Handicraft basketry was widespread in different parts of Russia. Weaving baskets from a pine torch (shingles) in the Olonets province is a very common occupation in all districts of the province. Weaving baskets from a torch was done by the peasants of Kargopol and the surrounding villages.

The basket craft attracted peasants more than all other crafts due to its general accessibility. Almost exclusively men worked, women were engaged in weaving baskets only in isolated cases. In a peasant family, weaving baskets was mainly an auxiliary occupation. Even the previously mentioned small number of handicraftsmen in the entire Olonets province (55 people), who specialized in basket weaving, could not develop their business due to low prices for products and for lack of time: being engaged only in weaving baskets for sale, they would not be able to feed their families.

Peasants usually engaged in weaving baskets in winter. There were no special workshops, they usually worked in the house.

A brief description of the technology for making wicker baskets is given in the statistical collection “Handicrafts and Handicraft Earnings of the Peasants of the Olonets Province”: “... for a product made of shreds, you need a great ability to select a tree, and then saw it so that there is no core left. For a successful business, the chopped planted pieces of wood are put in the oven, “to soften”, after a day they are already perfectly split with a knife, and they are in a hurry to use the material, because. it is easier to make baskets from the “paired” material.”

Thus, in economic life peasants of the Olonets province, the manufacture of wicker baskets from pine splinter (shingles), as a type of traditional economic activity, played an important role. Baskets were widely used in the everyday life of peasants; not a single peasant family could do without them. For many families, owning this craft brought additional income.

word wood chips

The word wood chips in English letters (transliteration) - shchepa

The word chip consists of 4 letters: a e p u

Meanings of the word wood chips. What is a chip?

Chips. shredded wood established dimensions, obtained as a result of grinding wood raw materials with chippers and special devices, used as technological raw materials or fuel See all terms of GOST 17462-84.

Dictionary of GOST vocabulary

Chips - particles of wood obtained in the process of grinding short-length raw materials or scraps of lumber. There are technological and fuel chips.

Chips - shredded wood of established sizes, obtained as a result of processing wood raw materials with chippers and special devices, used as technological raw materials or fuel.

Glossary of basic forestry and economic terms

Chips for smoking

Chips for smoking are wood particles of the correct rectangular shape, obtained in the process of grinding wood raw materials with a chipper and representing a smoking material used in smoldering smoke generators ...

en.wikipedia.org

Chips, technological

Chips, technological. Technological chips Chips for pulp production, wood boards and products of wood-chemical and hydrolysis industries See all terms of GOST 17462-84.

Dictionary of GOST vocabulary

Shchepa, Alexander Fyodorovich

Shchepa, Alexander Fedorovich - the specific prince of Rostov, the ancestor of the princes Shchepin-Rostovsky, according to one indication - the son of Prince Fyodor Alexandrovich, according to others - Prince Fyodor Andreevich ...

Alexander Fedorovich Schepa

Alexander Fedorovich Schepa (d. 1442) - governor of Pskov (1410-1412, 1421-1424, 1429-1434), prince of Rostov by origin, ancestor of the princes Shchepin-Rostovsky.

en.wikipedia.org

Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker on Schepy

Church of St. Nicholas the Wonderworker on Schepy, Nikoloshchepovskaya Church - Orthodox church in the center of Moscow, in the Arbat district, at the corner of the First Smolensky and Second Nikoloshchepovsky lanes ...

en.wikipedia.org

Pozharsky, Prince Peter Timofeevich Shchepa

Pozharsky, Prince Peter Timofeevich Shchepa - son of Prince. Timofey Feodorovich; in 1597-1599

Do It Yourself (Spark) 1994-06, page 80

he was bypassed by his head in Moscow, successively: in Kitay-Gorod, in the New Tsar's City, from the Neglinnaya River to Moscow, and in the Kremlin; in 1600 - governor in Urzhum.

Big biographical encyclopedia. — 2009

Russian language

Morphemic spelling dictionary. - 2002

Wood chips, -s, pl. chips, chips, chips.

Orthographic dictionary. - 2004

Usage examples for chip

Today, such products as bioplastics, wood chips, pellets and other biofuels are gaining popularity.

Fabrication and installation of shingle roofing

Shingles are called thin wooden plates, which are used for roofing, as well as for facade cladding. The raw material for the manufacture of shingles is coniferous wood:

pines,
cedar,
aspen wood.

A type of roof made of shingles can be called differently:

shingle,
shingles,
shindel,
shingalas.

They differ only in manufacturing technology, as well as styling. To this day shingles are made almost by hand.

Depending on the method of manufacture and the resulting form, shingles are distinguished:

pricked,
sawn,
mosaic.

Thanks to the use of special impregnations for wood, shingles can be given almost any shade (or, using a colorless composition, retain its original appearance). In addition, such impregnations significantly extend the life of these wooden products.

Shingles installation

When arranging the roof, shingles are mounted with a slope of at least 12%. The result should be a multi-layer structure, in which there are from four to eight layers of wooden tiles.

Let's talk about the process of making and installing spruce shingles.

To make spruce shingles, you will need spruce round timber. When calculating the number of round timber, it is necessary to take into account the quality of the material, the dimensions of the roof and the number of roofing layers.

First prepare the chumps. To do this, round timber, on which there are no knots, is sawn into pieces 40 cm long. Sawn logs are placed in the boiler ( metal barrel) and cook for about half an hour - this allows you to steam the wood a little. After that, the block of wood is placed vertically and with the help of a plow they begin to peel the shingles.

The thickness of the peeled shingles should be no more than 1 cm. Then the still wet shingles are stacked. Between the layers it is necessary to provide for the presence of a gasket. After the shingles dries out a little, it can be laid on the roof. Previously, it is desirable to remove the bark from the sides of the shingles (sand).

In general, logs can not be boiled. Then all the chopped logs must immediately be painted over from the ends with a thick oil paint This will prevent cracking of the wood.

How and with what to make a shingle yourself?

After that, the logs are put to dry (also with gaskets) in indoors or under a canopy.

Roofing

So, when the shingles are cut, you can proceed to roofing work. First you need to make a solid crate. It is desirable to cover the crate made with roofing paper, and only then take on the shingles. Lay out with a layer of overlap or butt joint, fix with lath nails (60 mm x 1 mm). Starting to cover the roof should be from the bottom edge, while the upper shingles should overlap the end and side joints by 5 cm.

When fastening two or three lower layers, one nail is hammered into each of the shingles, and two nails must be hammered into the shingles of the uppermost layer. The optimal dimensions of the shingles are as follows: 40 x 8 x 0.7 cm. The ridge of the roof is upholstered with a board.

Wood has a number of features due to which shingle roofing is unique in its properties. Let's list these features:

Aspen shingles are “preserved” when exposed to open air for a long time. Due to this, aspen is recommended for arranging baths and other rooms subject to high humidity.
When pine shingles are used, the resin released from its pores seals the microscopic cracks in the roof.
Roofing from shingles does not need additional waterproofing.

Articles about roofs in country houses

Baskets woven from pine shingles (drani)

wooden roof tiles

Answer: SHINGLES

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planks for wall lathing before plastering
wooden roof tiles
wooden roof tiles
lathing for walls under plaster
thin wooden plates
thin wooden plates
roofing plank
roofing plank
plank for wall plaster
plank for wall plaster
Building material, wooden planks (planks) for upholstery of walls and ceilings
sheathing rail
sheathing rail
thinly pricked plates from aspen, pine
slats for walls under plaster
slats for walls under plaster
thin wood chips
thin wood chips
Thin wooden plates for upholstery of walls and ceilings for plastering and for roofing
strips for plaster
strips for plaster
thin (3-5 mm) wooden planks (planks) for wall and ceiling upholstery
thin slabs of wood
thin slabs of wood
thinner than shingle
thinner than shingle
and for lathing walls for plaster
roofing strip
roofing strip
thin wooden plank for roofing
thin wooden plank for roofing
roof boards
roof boards
thin plank
thin plank
"skeleton" for plaster
"skeleton" for plaster
plaster
plaster
thin wooden plank for lathing under plaster
thin wooden slats
thin wooden slats
wooden plank
wooden plank
roof chips
roof chips
thin wooden plank
thin wooden plank
river in Kamchatka
river in Kamchatka
piece of wood for framing
piece of wood for framing
plate for plaster
plate for plaster