Complex and simple do-it-yourself barrel ovens. Barrel stove: a simple option for organizing heating in utility rooms Iron barrel stove

For happy owners summer cottages a stove from a barrel of 200 liters is a panacea for many troubles that await them in housekeeping in difficult climatic conditions Russia. It can be used for heating a greenhouse and utility rooms, burning leaves and other debris, fumigating trees during frost, kindling a bathhouse.

The main advantage is that such a stove is made from a barrel with your own hands. This does not require special knowledge and large financial costs. Its other advantages are:

  • the use of improvised solid fuel - firewood, wood chips, sawdust, brushwood, etc.;
  • small size and weight, mobility;
  • simplicity and reliability of work.

The stove from a 200 l barrel has disadvantages that you need to know for safe operation:

  • the need for periodic removal of ash and ashes, cleaning the boiler from soot;
  • low heat accumulation;
  • a non-combustible base or pedestal is required, a safe distance from the walls;
  • the need for a high chimney pipe to provide draft;
  • periodic monitoring of the combustion process due to the possibility reverse thrust and room smoke.

Do-it-yourself oven from a 200 liter barrel for various purposes in the garden

Consider how you can make a stove out of 200 liter barrel do-it-yourself for various purposes at the dacha or garden plot.

Bubafonya - oven from a barrel long burning. It is an upper burning stove, where the loaded solid fuel burns gradually from top to bottom, pressed down by a piston with a descending pipe for air supply. Due to the restriction of air access, combustion occurs long time. Pyrolysis gases, burning down above the surface of the piston, heat the body and go outside through the chimney.

The stove is made from a barrel of 200 liters, which is usually used to store fuels and lubricants or paint. An empty iron barrel can be bought at warehouses, metal depots, or found at a landfill. In addition to it, you will need:

  • a metal circle for the piston with a diameter several centimeters smaller than the inner diameter of the barrel;
  • a metal corner 5-6 cm wide for the base of the piston and legs;
  • an iron pipe with a diameter of 10 cm, 5 cm longer than the height of the barrel, which serves to supply air and is at the same time a guide piston rod;
  • 5m metal chimney pipe and 15cm tee.

Do-it-yourself balloon stove

Case manufacturing:

  • The top of the barrel must be carefully dismantled, knocking down the weld. The drain hole with screw plug can be welded or left to be used as a viewing window.
  • Smooth out sharp edges by bending the edges of the cylinder inward around the circumference.
  • Align the edge of the cover in the same way, bending its edges outward with a hammer. As a result, the cover should overlap tightly on the edges of the cylinder.
  • In the center of the cover, cut a hole with a diameter of 10.2 cm for the free passage of the stem-pipe.
  • Cut a hole 15 cm in diameter in the upper part of the side surface of the cylinder and hermetically weld a 25 cm section of the chimney pipe for the elbow connection with the chimney by welding.
  • Make 4 legs from a corner and weld to the bottom of the cylinder for stable installation of the furnace on a pedestal or refractory base.

Piston manufacturing:

  • In the center of the metal circle that serves as the base of the piston, cut a hole into which the supply pipe should fit tightly.
  • On one side of the pancake, weld 4 segments of the corner symmetrically and radially from the hole to the outer circle. They will provide the rigidity of the piston base and the necessary air gap between the piston and the fuel.
  • On the reverse side of the pancake, put one end of the pipe into the hole and weld it tightly, observing the strict perpendicularity of the two parts.
  • Put the barrel lid on the pipe and, at the other end of the pipe, weld a bolt protruding beyond the end to it, on which to fix a metal plate that freely rotates and completely covers the hole. It is a damper that regulates the air supply.

A "long-playing" stove from a barrel with your own hands is ready. It remains to install it on a safe pedestal or base and connect it to the chimney.

A chimney pipe with a height of at least 5 m is mounted vertically on legs and fixed with braces.

The lower part should be plugged with a removable plug with a ball valve to drain the condensate. At the same height with the exhaust pipe of the barrel, a tee must be welded in to connect to the furnace. The chimney tee can be connected to the furnace outlet with a metal sheet and clamps.

How can a stove be used in a garden plot from a barrel with your own hands

The kindling of the furnace is carried out as follows:

  • Dry solid fuel is tightly packed into an empty cylinder to such a height that the upper plane of the piston is below the lower boundary of the chimney opening. Wet firewood should not be allowed, which can slow down the movement of the piston during the combustion process.
  • Put chips, a rag or paper sprinkled with diesel fuel or kerosene on top, close the lid with a piston.
  • Fully open the shutter, set fire to the rolled paper and throw it into the pipe. When the firewood flares up well, close the damper, setting the minimum gap for air to enter.

On a household plot, a stove from a 200l barrel can be used to heat greenhouses, kindle a bathhouse or burn garbage.

Barrel stove for greenhouse, application options

A feature of heating greenhouses is the need for a uniform supply of heat to large area. This is usually achieved in the following ways:

  • Natural convection method

A garden stove from a barrel is installed at the entrance to the greenhouse, and a chimney at the opposite end. A pipe with a slight upward slope runs along the entire greenhouse, connecting the stove to the chimney. Hot gases, passing through the pipe, heat it along its entire length, and the greenhouse is heated more evenly over the entire area due to the natural convection of warm air.

Bubafonya oven

  • Forced convection method

A do-it-yourself oven made from a barrel is placed in an even larger diameter metal cylinder, which is welded from sheet iron. The outer cylinder must have a cutout for placing the chimney elbow of the furnace and two holes with a diameter of 10-20 cm, located on opposite sides from below and above.

A branch pipe is welded into the lower hole for forced supply of outside air with the help of a fan, and a similar pipe is welded into the upper hole for the output of hot air.

The entire space between the outer cylinder and the inner oven must be hermetically sealed so that all the heated air enters the air duct system distributed over the entire area of ​​the greenhouse.

Do-it-yourself oven for a bath from a barrel, application features

  • In a 200-liter barrel, the top cover must be removed.
  • In the side part, cut three holes for standard oven doors for the ash pan, firebox and heater. The hole in the ash pan should be located above the bottom at the height of one layer of bricks, above it - the hole in the furnace, and the hole in the heater should be closer to the top cover of the barrel on the opposite side.
  • Lay out the bottom and lower part of the barrel up to 60 cm with a thick layer of refractory bricks, forming the volumes of the ash pan and the combustion chamber, dividing them with grates.
  • Weld the doors, sealing all the cracks with cement mortar.
  • Install grate from metal profiles with a gap of 5-8 mm separating the heater from the firebox, and lay out the walls with a thin layer of refractory bricks to the top.
  • Lay granite stones on the grate in several layers, starting with large ones and ending with small ones. Smoke must pass freely between them. The upper border of the stones should end at the level of the beginning of the door.
  • Weld the door to the stove, sealing the cracks with cement mortar.
  • Drill a hole for the chimney in the top lid of the barrel and weld a drain pipe there.
  • Close and seal the lid of the barrel. On the side surface barrels or on the lid, you can fix the tank for hot water connected to the plumbing system.

The stove is installed in the bath so that the firebox door looks into the dressing room, and the heater door into the steam room in compliance with all fire safety measures. It should be heated like an ordinary potbelly stove, using wood, pellets, coal, etc.

Steam is generated when heated stones are irrigated warm water through the stone door.

Barrel garbage stove

A lot of waste and garbage is always collected on the garden plot, which is expensive to take out.

The best way out of this situation is a garbage stove from a 200 liter barrel, the device of which is the simplest and accessible to everyone.

To do this, you need to remove the top cover of the barrel, and make a lot of holes on the bottom and bottom side of the barrel for air to enter.

Set the barrel on a dug ditch or brick base that provides air from below, and light a small fire in the barrel to begin with. Then, as it ignites, report the rest of the garbage. The advantage is that you can lay large branches without additional pruning. It can also be used for fumigation. flowering trees in frost. The disadvantage is that you need to turn the barrel over to remove the ash after each use.

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An old metal barrel of 200 liters is an excellent material for making a simple potbelly stove. The resulting stove is suitable for heating any non-residential premises ranging from garages to outbuildings. The stove from a 200-liter barrel has a simple design and does not cause difficulties even for novice craftsmen. Let's understand the features of this simple heater and discuss the assembly instructions.

Benefits of a barrel stove

When assembling homemade stoves, artisanal craftsmen often use old gas cylinders or sheet metal. It is problematic to get both, and even almost for free. To the greatest extent, this applies to sheet iron, which is most often simply bought. Barrels of 200 liters are more affordable raw materials for the construction of heating equipment.

200 liters is quite a decent volume. Fits in a firebox organized in a barrel a large number of firewood, which is necessary for the implementation of long burning. There will also be room for a large ash pan. In other words, an old metal barrel will still serve for the benefit of a person, providing him with warmth and comfort.

Barrel stove - perfect solution for heating non-residential premises of any type. It will fit in the garage, give warmth to a small workshop, and allow you to heat the basement. Its assembly does not take much time, but you need to pay attention to the choice of source material. The selected barrel should not be rusted through - the thicker the metal, the longer the stove itself will last. Therefore, there is no need to save on assembly materials.

Other advantages of a barrel stove:

  • A volume of 200 liters is enough for the normal burning of the flame in the furnace.
  • The ability to organize a capacious and easy-to-clean ash pan.
  • Unpretentiousness to fuel - the furnace will be able to work on everything that burns.
  • Easy to operate.

A potbelly stove from a 200-liter barrel is in some demand among those who need inexpensive and easy-to-assemble heating equipment.

There are also disadvantages:

  • High case temperature.
  • Low efficiency - part of the heat simply flies into the chimney.
  • Thin walls - durable furnaces require metal 3-4 mm thick.

You should not try to heat the stove from the barrel with coal - it has a high combustion temperature and can thin the metal.

Assembly sequence

A barrel stove is easy to assemble and requires an equally complex tool. We will need:

  • angle grinder (grinder);
  • welding machine;
  • a hacksaw for working with small parts (it’s more convenient);
  • Grinder.

Supporting materials will also be required:

  • segments sheet metal- for scalding doors;
  • door hinges;
  • metal for the chimney;
  • metal for legs;
  • brick and cement for organizing the base for the stove;
  • fittings for creating a grate.

Prepare cutting wheels for the grinder and electrodes for the welding machine (if electric welding is used).

Making a potbelly stove from a barrel is not the best difficult task, the main thing is to follow our instructions exactly and observe safety precautions.

Initial barrel preparation

Making a stove from a barrel with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. The first step is to prepare our "source". A barrel of 200 liters must be cleaned of paint (if it has been painted). Those who neglect this step will have to inhale the aromas of burning paint. Our task is to make the barrel shiny, and at the same time get rid of rusty spots.Use a grinder to grind metal.

In the next step, arm yourself with a grinder and carefully cut out two rectangular windows in the barrel. Work with the tool carefully, as the cut out rectangles will be useful to us as doors. We process the edges with the same grinder or file so that they are not so sharp. The door for the firebox should be larger than the door for the ash pan. In addition, the ash pan door will serve as a blower.

Cut off the top of the barrel completely. We will need to assemble and place a grate inside the 200 liter barrel. Therefore, the absence of a top cover will ensure the convenience of its installation.

Assembling the grate

For the manufacture of a grate, use fittings. The diameter of a standard barrel of 200 liters is 571.5 mm. Therefore, the lattice must be smaller in diameter in order to pass through the internal volume. At the level between the firebox door and the ash pan door, we make arbitrary protrusions - the grate itself will rest on them. For example, you can make them from sheet metal and weld them to the inner walls.

The potbelly stove from the barrel will generate quite a lot of ash falling into the ash pan. Therefore, it must be large - the recommended height is 100-130 mm. Do not make the door too narrow, otherwise there will be problems with ease of cleaning.

We prepare the doors

The doors of our stove will be clearly smaller than the boot and ash windows. Therefore, they must be scalded around the perimeter with pieces of sheet iron about 20 mm wide. We also saw out handles from sheet iron, rivet or fasten them to the doors. At the next stage, we carefully weld the hinges, after which we weld the doors to the stove itself - now our 200-liter barrel is almost ready to serve a second life.

Making the foundation

For our 200 liter barrel, it is desirable to make legs. Adapt pieces of thick reinforcement for this or make them from metal corners 2-3 mm thick. Optimal distance from the bottom of the barrel to the base - 100 mm.

Intending to make a potbelly stove from a barrel, think about the place of its installation. You will need a reliable non-combustible base. It is best to make it out of brick or pour concrete screed. The space in front of the stove is made of non-combustible material- for example, from the sheet iron laid here. If the floor in the heated room is concrete, just lay a sheet of iron on it and place a barrel on it.

We prepare the chimney

The design of the stove from a barrel of 200 liters implies the obligatory presence of a chimney. It would be nice if it was removable - a pipe-in-pipe system is suitable for this. That is, we weld a pipe of a smaller diameter with a height of 100-150 mm to the stove, and already we put on the main chimney pipe of a larger diameter on it. You can also use ready-made factory collapsible chimneys. The bottom line is that the stove can be quickly cleaned by removing it from the base - a volume of 200 liters does not mean at all that it will never become clogged with soot and soot.

Final assembly of the furnace

We take our 200-liter barrel with legs welded to it, install it on a pre-prepared base. Inside we lower the grate. At the next stage, we weld the top cover with a short chimney. Next, we put the main chimney on it and go for firewood.

Put some paper and small wood chips on the grate, kindle a fire, achieve a steady flame. Now start laying the main firewood - it is best if they are dry. Wet logs burn worse, and even smoke, clogging the chimney. Close the firebox door and adjust the intensity of combustion with the blower. Do not forget to periodically add more and more portions of fuel until the set temperature is reached.

Structural modernization

A barrel with an internal volume of 200 liters can produce a decent amount of heat. But the heat transfer efficiency will be small. Part of the thermal energy will completely fly away into the pipe. Therefore, the stove needs to be slightly retrofitted. This is done in the following ways:

These steps will help you make your barrel stove more efficient. If you don’t find a sample for 200 liters, you can take 150 liters - there will be a little less space in it, so you will have to throw firewood more often.

  • Brick walls are being built to the right, left and behind the barrel - they will work as a kind of heat accumulator.
  • The stove is scalded with round pipes of small diameter (for example, ¾ inch) - a convector is formed, which will cause air circulation in the room and effectively remove heat from the stove.
  • By extending the horizontal part of the chimney - run it through the entire room in order to take away the maximum thermal energy from the combustion products.

We will offer you some more ideas for upgrading the stove from a 200 liter barrel. For example, you can line its inside with refractory bricks. For organization hob use the cast iron insert in the top cover. Try to make a stove with increased heat dissipation - weld two barrels together in height. There are also modifications with a horizontal arrangement of barrels.

Interesting potbelly stove with stone masonry

A barrel of 200 liters can serve as the basis for another interesting stove - with masonry inside. To assemble it you will need:

  • the barrel itself;
  • thick metal wire or fittings;
  • large rounded river stones;
  • chimney pipes.

There is no ash pan in such a stove, so there will be some difficulties with cleaning. We immediately recommend that you make the firebox door at a level with the bottom of the barrel - it is more convenient to rake out the ashes. We make a kind of grate from reinforcement or thick metal wire. Only here it will fulfill a different role - it will support the masonry.

To assemble the stove, it is necessary to cut off the top cover from a 200-liter barrel and equip it with a pipe for connecting the chimney. In the lower part we cut out a door for laying firewood with a height of 150-200 mm. We fix a grate at a height of 250 mm, on which we pile stones to the top. Please note that it is precisely large stones that are needed so that combustion products pass quietly in the space between them.

A do-it-yourself barrel for burning garbage in the country is a design that is not so rare in garden plots. However, not every gardener knows how to make a stove as efficient and convenient as possible from a barrel. But most importantly, not everyone knows that burning waste in the country is generally prohibited by law. This article is about the nuances of getting rid of garbage in the country.

Before using a barrel for burning garbage in the country, it is better to carefully study the law.

Important! Russian legislation establishes a ban on burning garbage in the city and on summer cottages(ST 20.4 of the Code of Administrative Offenses of the Russian Federation).

Environmental services also talk about damage environment as a result of burning dried plants. Burning plant waste, especially in spring, often leads to numerous fires, which sometimes cover vast areas and end very badly. Fires for burning grass, lit in the city, have Negative influence on many residents with hypertension, asthmatic and other diseases.

Often, employees of various environmental services and fire safety inspectors carry out raids on personal plots in order to identify violators of fire safety and conduct explanatory work with them. However, many "arsonists" neglect warnings up to the moment of bringing them to administrative responsibility.

The prohibition of waste incineration is stipulated in federal law"On the Protection of Atmospheric Air".

Note! It is forbidden to burn plant and other waste in open areas of summer cottages, it is also forbidden to use barrels, bins, containers for burning garbage.

For non-compliance with the provisions of the law, a citizen may be held liable with the imposition of a fine. The following fines are provided for different categories of persons:

  • for ordinary citizens - 2,000 - 3,000 rubles;
  • for citizens who are officials - 6,000 - 15,000 rubles;
  • for individual entrepreneurs- 20,000 - 30,000 rubles. (or suspension of business activities for up to 90 days);
  • for legal entities - 150,000 - 200,000 rubles. (or suspension of activities for 90 days).

The amount of fines may vary depending on the region of the country and the time of year (for example, during the established period of the fire regime in May, the amount of fines increases for all persons).

In addition to such monetary compensation, those whose garbage burning led to the fire will have to pay certain amounts of money for the environmental damage caused.

Employees of environmental services recommend that summer residents use vegetable waste to dispose of compost pits. For the disposal of other waste, it is necessary to resort to the services of specialized companies for the removal and / or processing of household waste.

About the ban on burning waste in summer cottages, about how violators are identified by service employees, they talk in this video

Having studied the legal aspects, we can say that it is still possible to burn plant debris in the country, but at the same time without fail all the requirements of the fire safety rules established by the Ministry of Emergency Situations must be observed, and the places for burning must be agreed with the fire department.

How to make a stove for burning from a barrel

If you nevertheless decide, having fulfilled all the safety requirements, to get rid of plant debris by burning yourself, then for this purpose you can use different designs from the barrel.

How to make a barrel for burning garbage so that it functions as a furnace? To do this, of course, you will need a metal barrel and some engineering skills.

Let's consider a few options simple designs from barrels used as a waste incinerator.

  1. A barrel without a bottom, mounted on bricks. First you need to prepare the site. To do this, pour sand on a piece of land with a layer thickness of about 10 - 15 cm. Then you need to put a sheet of metal on the sand, on which the enclosing brick support is formed in the form of the letter "P". On top of such a support, you need to put a grate. Then it is necessary to install the barrel itself (after removing its bottom) on a brick base. This design of the barrel allows you to put country garbage through the top, and make a fire at the bottom, in a brick fence. At the same time, the resulting ash is easy and convenient to clean. When it's raining, it is better to cover such a design with a lid.
  2. Barrel for burning garbage with a drilled bottom. At the bottom of the barrel, you need to drill holes in a large number (more than 10) for air to enter. For better penetration oxygen and to pour out the ash from the tank, attach 4 metal legs-supports to the barrel. Install a metal grate inside at a height of 15 cm from the bottom of the barrel. At a distance of about 20 cm from the bottom, cut a hole in the container that serves as a blower. Attach metal loops to it and attach it again to the barrel so that you get a door with which you can lay firewood and regulate the strength of the fire in the container. For convenience, when transferring the structure to the barrel, handles can be welded. Use a cover to keep out the rain.

The options considered are just some of the barrel designs that serve to burn the accumulated plant waste. The creation of such stoves is limited only by your imagination, and, of course, safety regulations.

About one of the rather simple designs of barrel-stoves that serve to burn leaves, branches, dry grass, etc. in the country, they tell in the next video

In addition, some craftsmen use barrels to create stoves for heating purposes. small spaces. Having at least a little knowledge of physics and the necessary tools, you can build, for example, a stove from a 200-liter barrel (standard volume), which is used to maintain heat in a garage or greenhouse.

Pros and cons of burning waste in a barrel stove

Each design has both its pros and cons. From the general advantages and disadvantages, the following positive and negative points can be distinguished.

  • barrel stoves are mobile, they are easy to move around the garden;
  • allow you to avoid open fire;
  • the strength of the fire can be controlled.
  • constant exposure to high temperatures on the barrel leads to wear of the structure;
  • the use of barrel stoves, even in your own garden plot, is prohibited by law, their constant use is likely to lead to the payment of fines;
  • this method of disposal of garbage is not environmentally friendly, and also does not provide absolute fire safety.

Do they sell ready-made solutions?

In stores with garden tool you can find ready-made waste incinerators that provide maximum fire safety. By design and principle of operation, all turnkey solutions look like homemade stoves from barrels. A number of manufacturers install chimneys on their stoves to increase the burning rate of garbage. Such containers provide a high intensity of waste combustion even in the rain (with the top oven lid closed). The main advantages of purchased stoves over homemade ones are their Fire safety and more aesthetic appearance. Among the shortcomings of store ovens, their high cost can be noted.

Burning garbage in a barrel - easy way get rid of waste, but far from safe. The substances formed during the combustion process pollute the environment. It is for reasons of fire and environmental safety that it is forbidden to light a fire in garden plots (open or in a container). But every summer resident has the right to decide for himself whether to deceive the law or not.

A barrel stove is a simple and economical way of arranging heating in any non-residential building, for example, in a garage. For the manufacture of such a potbelly stove, metal containers are used, the volume of which is 200 liters. To make a reliable and efficient heater from a barrel, you need to understand the principle of operation of the stove and follow the instructions clearly.

Currently there are many options self-manufacturing stoves for household needs. For the assembly of potbelly stoves, old gas cylinders are used, as well as sheet iron. In the first case, it is quite difficult to get the right container. As for sheet iron, it is not cheap. However, there is a more accessible raw material, from which it is easiest to make a heating unit - a metal barrel of 200 liters.

Why is it recommended to use this volume? This is explained quite simply. When assembling a potbelly stove with your own hands, you need to make sure that it contains a large amount of fuel. This will maximize the time interval between downloads of new batches of firewood. In addition, the dimensions of such a container make it easy to allocate space for an ash pan.

Most often, these home-made structures are used to heat basements, garages, as well as workshops that do not provide autonomous heating.

Note! Before using the barrel, it is necessary to inspect it for rust. It is strictly forbidden to use tanks on the surface of which traces of corrosion can be traced. These vulnerabilities under the influence of high temperatures will simply burn out, which can cause an emergency.

In order to answer the question of how to make a potbelly stove, you must carefully study the instructions. Usage metal barrel for construction heater has other advantages as well. For example, the natural dimensions of the tank do not prevent the free burning of fire. And also such a stove does not require the selection of special fuel.

As with any other device, some disadvantages are also characteristic of a home-made potbelly stove. During operation, the container body is heated to very high temperature, since the metal sheet has a small thickness. Thus, during the operation of such a potbelly stove, it is strictly forbidden to touch it. You can make a stove from a barrel of 200 liters with your own hands quite quickly (in just a few hours).

Such stoves have low efficiency, which is explained by the peculiarities of their design. During operation, part of the thermal energy simply escapes into the chimney. Experts do not recommend using it as fuel for such barrels. coal. It's all about its high combustion temperature, which thin walls can not withstand.

The principle of operation of a potbelly stove from a barrel: what you need to know

Before the beginning self assembly of such a device, it is necessary to understand how it functions. Understanding the principle of operation makes it possible to simplify the manufacturing process of such an impromptu furnace.

Sawdust or firewood is used as fuel for a homemade potbelly stove from a metal tank. Compressed sawdust is different in that it takes quite a long time to process inside a homemade oven. Among other things, the cost of such fuel is minimal, so it is widely used.

The diameter of a 200 liter drum is 600 mm. If desired, you can perform a fairly functional design, which will also have an attractive appearance. The dimensions of the tank with a volume of 200 liters allow you to place a hexagon inside it, the sides of which will be equal to 314 mm. In this case, according to the manufacturing technology, the devices resemble traditional furnace units.

It is worth noting that the finished device has a not very high efficiency - only 15%. To improve efficiency in homemade design quite often adds another constituent element - the screen. The reflective shield certainly contributes efficiency increase However, this solution also has a negative side. The use of a screen that reflects heat leads to the fact that the operational life of a homemade stove is reduced.

Useful information! The main reason that the furnace has a rather low efficiency is the height of the tank. Barrels with a capacity of 200 liters are 85 cm long. The second problem is a too thin sheet of metal, the thickness of which rarely exceeds 2 mm.

It is worth noting that if the grate in the unit rises due to the high location of the blower, then the efficiency of the device drops. This is due to the fact that heat in such a design is dissipated into the air through its lower part. To solve this problem, it is necessary to hide in brickwork the lower part of the stove from the barrel. Not only instructions, but also educational photo and video materials will help to complete such a unit with your own hands.

The service life of potbelly stoves made of metal barrels averages 3-4 years under normal operation. To raise the efficiency, many tricks are used. However, it is worth saying that with all the desire to get more than 20% of the return on a home-made unit, it will not work.

The technical characteristics of the future heater and its efficiency depend on the choice of the barrel. In order to assemble a potbelly stove on your own, it is necessary to prepare a metal tank, the recommended volume of which is 200 liters. Of course, it is possible to make a stove from a smaller capacity, however, in this case, the efficiency of the heater decreases, which is already quite low.

To assemble a potbelly stove with your own hands, you can use any metal barrels made of steel material. Steel has good resistance to high temperatures, so its use for assembling a heating unit is more than justified. For the same purpose, you can use barrels that were used for storage:

  • oils;

  • paints;
  • fuel;
  • bitumen;
  • liquid glass;
  • sand.

All containers produced and used for storage various formulations, are subdivided into types according to several criteria. First of all, they can be with or without a closed top. And also such tanks differ from each other in the thickness of the bottom and the open cylindrical structural element (shell). Regardless of the variety, for the production of a metal furnace with your own hands, you need to preliminary cleaning tank.

The operational life of such a stove in any case depends on the thickness of the walls of the barrel. Based on this, it is not recommended to use tanks that have a wall thickness of less than 2 mm for assembling the heating unit. The shelf life of the device is also affected by the frequency of its use.

Note! The most appropriate is the use of barrels, for the manufacture of which stainless steel is used. This material has the highest technical specifications including resistance to high temperatures.

Before proceeding with the assembly of the unit, it is necessary to draw a long-burning furnace. The more detailed it is, the less likely it is to make mistakes during the design of the heater.

Varieties of stoves depending on location: vertical model

Depending on the plane in which the metal tank will be located, two types of home-made bourgeois stoves are distinguished: vertical and horizontal. Each of these types of heating devices has its own advantages and disadvantages.

The furnace from a vertical type barrel is not installed on the floor, but on legs. To complete the door, you will need to cut out the side of the tank and provide it with hinges. It is important to remember that the hinges must be fixed to the barrel and the door not from the inside, but from its outer part.

A mandatory element of this design is a perforated metal plate, which is called a grate. To fix such a lattice, you can use the usual corners. In order to perform a blower, you will need to prepare metal pipe with slide gate. The wall thickness of the metal must be sufficient, otherwise the structure will quickly burn out.

damper for wood stove long burning, located in a vertical plane, is fixed on special bolts. When igniting the fuel inside the tank, the blower should be opened to the limit.

In the upper part of the canister, it is necessary to make a hole in the shape of a circle. It will be needed in order to connect a chimney structure to a homemade stove. Pipe connection with metal surface produced using welding equipment.

The function of the grate is to protect the bottom of the canister from burning out, as well as to retain thermal energy. Thus, this element is necessary when installing a home-made long-burning stove.

Design features are determined depending on the purpose of the device and the place where it will be located. You can download it if you want finished drawing potbelly stoves on the Internet. However, in this case, it is necessary not to make a mistake with its volume.

The vertical variety of a home-made heating device is easy to assemble. You can find application for such a unit both in a private house and in the country. The firewood used to kindle a heating device of this type is selected depending on the dimensions of the firebox.

barrel stove: features of the horizontal model

From a barrel, which has a volume of 200 liters, you can also perform heating device located in the horizontal plane. In this case, it is also necessary to prepare supporting structure. Its height is calculated taking into account individual operational features. When choosing this indicator, first of all, you need to focus on the dimensions of the room in which the home-made heater will be installed.

In the drawing of the furnace, it is necessary to take into account the features of its location. The assembly of this design takes place in an almost identical way, as in the case of a vertical heater. Let us consider in more detail the process of self-manufacturing a potbelly stove from a metal canister.

Note! The dimensions of the ash pan should not exceed 1/3 of the height of the canister. The size of a 200 l barrel (more precisely, the height) is usually 85 cm.

A hole must be made in the bottom of the tank, which will be used to remove the ash. At the same time, you need to understand that its parameters should not be too large. Next, you need to make an ash pan. As a material for this element, an ordinary metal sheet of the appropriate thickness is used. Then it should be docked with the bottom of the heater. For this, it is customary to use welding equipment.

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Principle of operation. Device types. Factory models. Making a furnace for testing with your own hands, design options.

When arranging the ash pan, it is necessary to provide a viewing window through which this compartment will be cleaned. Next, the installation of the chimney structure is carried out. In this case, there are two common options for the location of the pipe - on the back wall or in the upper part.

A long-burning potbelly stove, located in a horizontal plane, can be used not only for heating garages, basements and outbuildings, but also for cooking. To do this, it is equipped with a special hob. Such a device is mobile, so it can be taken out to nature.

How to make a stove with your own hands: the preparatory stage

Before starting the assembly of a potbelly stove from a barrel, you should purchase necessary tools and materials. It is also very important to prepare the tank itself, since not every tank is suitable for constructing a solid fuel heater. During the manufacturing process you will need:

  • two barrels (200 l);
  • door;
  • grate;
  • sheet metal;
  • metal corners;
  • rods;
  • metal pipe;
  • brick (refractory);
  • Bulgarian;
  • drill;
  • welding equipment.

Installation is carried out in accordance with the scheme of the stove, made in advance. It’s worth saying right away that the barrel for making a potbelly stove must be prepared before starting work. To do this, remove from the surface of the container paint material. If you ignore this stage, then during operation the stove will emit acrid, unhealthy smoke for some time.

For those who care about the appearance of the future device, experts recommend polishing the container after removing the paint. For this purpose, a conventional metal grinder is suitable.

In addition to removing paint, you will need to cut two windows in the body of the canister rectangular shape. When doing this work, you should be careful, as the removed segments will be used as doors in the future. After cutting out the windows, it is necessary to process the edges of the holes with a grinder. This will smooth them out, which will ensure convenient and safe use of the wood stove. Doing all the steps with your own hands is not difficult. Any beginner can handle this job.

Note! The door used for the firebox must be larger than the ash pan door.

The last thing to do in the preparation phase is to remove upper part containers. This must be done in order to install the grate.

Stove from a barrel of 200 liters: dimensions and installation of a grate

To assemble the grate, metal reinforced rods are used. The diameter of a standard canister that has such a volume is usually 571.5 mm. When assembling the grate, this indicator must be taken into account. In any case, it should be smaller.

The grate is installed between the doors of the furnace and the ash pan. For its fixation, metal corners are used. Video materials on this topic allow you to give a more accurate answer to the question of how to make a stove with your own hands using a barrel.

When making an ash pan, one should take into account how much fuel will be processed per day. Such home-made heaters generate quite a lot of ash, so the recommended depth of the collection compartment is 10-13 cm.

The doors for the ash pan and the furnace tank must be enlarged using welding equipment and strips cut from metal sheets. The width of the strips should be approximately 2 cm. It is recommended that this stage of work be noted in advance in the drawing of the potbelly stove. With your own hands you will need to design handles. The simplest option involves welding individual pieces of reinforcement to the doors. Then you need to install the hinges.

The next step is to assemble the supporting elements. In order to make legs, you need to prepare pieces of dense reinforcement. Also, for this purpose, you can use metal corners which must be at least 3 mm thick. When choosing optimal height stands must be guided by individual preferences. The standard distance from the floor to the heater is 10 cm.

How to make a stove from a barrel: chimney preparation and final assembly

The place where the homemade potbelly stove will be installed must be prepared in advance. It is recommended to sheathe the floor and walls with metal sheets. This will protect the surface from the negative effects of high temperatures. The design of the furnace, made from a barrel, without fail requires a chimney. Most the best option– removable device (pipe in pipe).

A removable chimney is quite easy to do yourself. To do this, you need to weld a pipe with a smaller diameter to the tank. The length of such a segment should be no more than 15 cm. Then the second pipe, which has a larger cross section, is simply put on. The specialized forums help answer the question of how to make a potbelly stove with your own hands. Before designing a heater, it is recommended to read the advice of the masters.

Useful information! Collapsible factory versions of chimneys are often used. It is not recommended to design a one-piece pipe, since in case of clogging it will be much more difficult to clean it from soot and burning.

After the chimney is welded, you can proceed to the final stage - the assembly of the heater. The stove from a barrel of 200 liters must be placed in a place prepared for its work. Next, a grate made of reinforced rods is placed in it. Then it is necessary to weld a lid with a narrow tube to the top of the barrel and put a wider pipe on the outlet. This completes the assembly of a homemade potbelly stove from a metal tank.

After the stove is ready, you need to test it. Such a device can be used not only for heating the room, but also for cooking. Some owners use a 200 liter barrel stove to burn garbage.

Proper operation of such a heater is the key to its long service life. In order for the potbelly stove from the canister to last at least 5 years, regular preventive cleaning of the unit is required.

Rules for installing a homemade potbelly stove

Before installing the stove, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules. This will ensure maximum safety when working with the unit. First of all, it is worth remembering that the potbelly stove should be located only on the surface that is resistant to fires.

A fire-resistant surface can be arranged on your own. To do this, you need to prepare a brick or ceramic tile. from any suitable facing material platform is laid out. It is also recommended to protect the walls from the high temperature that the wood-burning stove produces.

Another way to protect work surfaces from heat is to use special refractory drywall. It is important to remember that there should not be any flammable materials in the immediate vicinity of the potbelly stove.

If desired, you can make a potbelly stove with a water circuit. This heating option is more complex from a constructive point of view. It requires the organization of a heat exchanger, as well as pipe wiring.

Note! In a room that will be heated by such equipment, it is necessary to organize competent ventilation communication. It is best to use a construct that is of the coercive type, since natural ventilation in this case, it may not be enough.

For the manufacture of potbelly stoves, it is worth using only high-quality, reliable materials. Before starting work, it is recommended to study the video on this topic. Photos of stoves also help to understand the intricacies of the assembly. The unit, which was executed correctly, is able to last more than one year.

Thus, in order to make a stove from a metal barrel, you do not need to have any special knowledge. Strict adherence to instructions, as well as an understanding of the principles of work this device- this is all you need to know to make a reliable unit.

Colleagues, hands suddenly itch (growing you know where)!

There is a need to sometimes burn a certain amount of combustible waste in the garden. Cardboard, branches, sticks and other rubbish. To use a brick barbecue for this purpose is not comme il faut. A barrel was previously used, but it has two disadvantages:
1. Too much flame, sheaves of sparks and smoldering leaves flying away with streams of warm air.
2. Too nervous neighbors, whom point 1 is too annoying.

I thought about converting an already available 200-liter barrel with a lid into a kind of garden stove for recycling various cardboard, branches, sticks and other rubbish. The main idea of ​​the idea consists of the following:
A. Eliminate the howl of neighbors by eliminating streams of sparks and flying leaves.
B. Put on the site not a charred barrel, but a decent looking device.
D. Dispose of combustible fuel with maximum efficiency to keep as little ash as possible.

At first there were ideas:
I. Make a gas-generating furnace (pyrolysis) out of a barrel. But all the models of stoves that I found on the Internet are too tricky to maintain, you need to load them in full, give firewood with lids, etc. I want to give up the idea, although I really like it, but I didn’t find any implementation options without dust and noise. In principle, there is only one version of the furnace on the network, but it is called differently.
II. Make a vertical oven. There are only two advantages here - you can easily pile branches on top, and it will take up little space. But it seems to me the approach is not very interesting.
III. Make a vertical tandoor oven. Cover the inside of the barrel with a brick with fireclay, sprinkle with pebbles. I want a tandoor, but I feel that there will be problems with efficiency, sparks, and a small volume of the furnace.
IV. Make a horizontal oven with a pipe. If then my hands itch again, then I’ll put a tandoor on top.

So far I figured out this option for the stove:

Everything seems to be simple. The only thing that fundamentally worries me now is how to make an oven. With grate or without?

The advantage of the option with a grate is that all the ashes remain in the furnace, but at the same time, the volume of the furnace decreases slightly and the amount of work is greater. If you make a firebox without a grate, then at the bottom of the furnace, I will weld a few round holes, air will be sucked through them into the furnace. It is easier to do this, but efficiency may decrease due to the fact that some of the firewood will not be saturated with fresh air and they will not burn out completely. Yes, and the soil under the stove will be too saturated with ash, which can adversely affect plants growing nearby.

Now in detail on the stove itself. I will be glad to comments:
1. The firebox door will be made in the bottom of the barrel. I plan to cut around the perimeter with an electric jigsaw with metal files. I would cut it out with pleasure with a grinder, but I’ll never know how to saw a grinder in a circle and evenly. The lower part is sawn flush with the wall of the barrel, so that it would be convenient to remove the ash later. The cut out part sits on door hinge and screwed to the top not cut out part. That is, a small gap will remain around the perimeter of the door, about 1-1.5 mm.
2. The current cover will be put on from the side of the pipe and either clamped with a native clamp (if I find it), or stupidly welded (if I don’t find it). Better of course with a clamp, then you can do cleaning from both sides.
3. What is the height of the pipe?
4. I plan to make the grate from thin reinforcement by cutting it into slices, followed by welding into a mesh.
5. At what height should the grate be made? (if at all?)
6. What should be the ratio between the diameter (pipe capacity) and the intake holes fresh air from outside? 1 to 1? Or should the fence be calculated less, in order to compensate for leakage due to leakage?
7. Welding the metal of the barrel with goats or something else (suddenly needed) given the thickness of the metal of the barrel ~ 1-1.5mm? I haven't made it this thick yet. Will there be holes? Or is it better not to take risks and rely on threaded connections and gravity?
8. I plan to paint the stove outside with heat-resistant paint. There are options up to 600 degrees based on silica for adequate money. But, interestingly, inside to paint or not? The purpose of painting is to give an aesthetic appearance and protection against increased corrosion.

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