What distance should be between the furrows of potatoes. Optimal distance when planting potatoes. Groundwater and planting

Potato is the most common agricultural crop grown on household and summer cottages. At the same time, despite the similarity of its agricultural technology in different regions our country, there is some difference in the methods of planting tubers. That is why the question of how deep worries many, including beginner gardeners.

What determines the depth of planting tubers

Exist various ways planting of this crop: in holes, in ridges, under a shovel or in furrows. Moreover, the depth of embedding tubers can vary from 5 cm to 30 or more centimeters. What determines the depth of planting potatoes?

It is determined by several different factors. These include:

Soil type and composition. On light and loose soils, the depth of tuber embedding can be greater, since such soil passes air quite well, which allows the plant to develop quickly and produce many underground stolons on which it is tied. a large number of tubers. On dense soils, the depth of planting potatoes can be 5-8 cm.
Tuber size. Generally, larger tubers are buried deeper than smaller tubers because they contain more nutrients, which allows the stems to develop faster and more actively.
Type of planting material. Very often, to save planting material, gardeners practice cutting tubers into pieces. Each of them should have several eyes or sprouts. The cut must be well dried and processed wood ash. Such planting material usually close up to a depth of no more than 5-8 cm.

Methods for planting potatoes

Answering the question of how to plant potatoes correctly, it is difficult to say which method of planting tubers is the most effective. AT different conditions they all show different results. There are several popular ways to plant this crop.

The choice of method for planting potatoes is determined by the features of the relief of the site, the region of cultivation, the level of groundwater, and the personal preferences of the gardener.

The most common methods of planting tubers:

Many people ask the question: at what distance to plant potatoes? It depends on the size of the tubers, the variety of potatoes, the method of planting. Exist various schemes landings, the most popular of which are:

distance between tubers - 40-50 cm, row spacing - 50-70 cm;
early varieties are planted at intervals of 30-35 cm, row spacing - 50 cm.

Planting material preparation

Tubers intended for planting must be intact, without signs or mechanical damage. 2-3 weeks before planting the tubers in the ground, they are germinated at a temperature of about 15-18 ° C. After the sprouts reach 0.5-1 cm, the planting material is taken out for 1-2 days into the light. Such preplant preparation of tubers makes it possible to obtain potato bushes with a large number of stems and stolons.

Tubers are most often planted by hand. Less commonly used garden equipment. Highly useful device- planter for potatoes. It can be purchased at a specialized store or do it yourself. It not only facilitates the physical work of a person, but also allows you to get more even and beautiful rows of potatoes.

Land cultivation after planting

Since the tubers form on the lateral shoots of the plant, after planting, it is imperative to hill up the stems several times per season with an interval of 2 weeks until the greens close between the rows. At the same time, mounds of earth are formed around the plant. They not only promote education more tubers, but also protect young plants from late frosts.

Potato planting depth - video

Tubers are planted when soil temperature at a depth of 10 cm will reach 7-8 degrees. Usually in the Moscow region it happens in early May. Delay in planting potatoes results in a 30% yield loss.
well germinated tubers to get early potatoes, you can plant a little earlier - at a soil temperature of 5-6 degrees. Experience shows that such early boarding in insufficiently warmed soil gives a greater yield than belated in warmed.

Potatoes are planted on a flat surface, and on waterlogged and heavy soils - in ridges. With such a landing, the earth warms up better and more air enters the tubers.

Distance between rows of potatoes when planting

Before boarding in order to evenly place the plants on the area, the site should be marked out. To do this, with the help of a marker, shallow grooves are made, along which they land. For the first pass of the marker, a cord is pulled along which its extreme prong is led. You can plant tubers directly under the cord, but this is less convenient, and more time is required. To increase yield after planting, the soil can be mulch(sprinkle with a layer of peat 2-3 cm).

The optimal distance between the rows of potatoes for early ripe varieties- 70-75 cm, for late-ripening - 80-90 cm.
Planting density depends on the size of the potato tubers. Small ones are planted after 18-20 cm, medium and large ones after 26-28 cm.

Tubers are planted on heavy soils to a depth 6-8 cm, on the lungs - 8-10 cm, counting the distance from the soil surface to the tuber. With such a planting per hundred square meters, approximately 350 large tubers, 450 medium, 500 and smaller tubers will be required.

Caring for potatoes after planting

potato care mainly comes down to keeping the soil loose and killing weeds.

Harrowing potatoes. The first harrowing is carried out 4-5 days after planting. Then two or three more before germination and one or two after the plants appear on the surface. Usually from planting to shoots takes 16-28 days.

Loosening and hilling potatoes. After the rows are well marked and the plants have sprouted so that it is impossible to harrow, they begin to loosen the row spacing. The first time the soil is loosened deeply - by 12-14 cm, and the second and third are shallower - by 6-8 cm. When the plants reach a height of 12-15 cm, the first hilling is carried out, with a crest height of 15-20 cm. closure of tops.

Feeding potatoes after planting. Before loosening the row spacing and hilling the plants, it is advisable to feed. This is especially important for middle-aged and late varieties potatoes. It is enough to spend two top dressing.
First time you can pour two handfuls of humus under each bush with the addition of two teaspoons to it ammonium nitrate or pour two handfuls of ash mixed with the same amount of earth, or add 15 g of chicken manure.
For the second feeding in 10 liters of water, dilute 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and 1 tbsp. a spoonful of nitrophoska. With this solution, the plants are watered under the root, and then watered with clean water.
Keep in mind that top dressing is given only during the initial development of plants. After flowering, they lead to late ripening tubers and the accumulation of nitrates in them.

With a lack of moisture potatoes are watered along the furrows or by sprinkling. Drought 2-3 weeks after germination, during bud emergence and early August when tubers are growing, can significantly reduce yields. After watering, the soil must be loosened so that a crust does not form.

Advice. In order not to damage the potatoes, keep in mind that in hot and dry weather, you can not deep loosen around the bushes or hill the plants. This leads to dehydration and overheating of the soil, stops the growth of tubers and contributes to the appearance of diseases. In drought, shallow loosening of row spacings is sufficient.

Many people think that planting potatoes is a simple matter, but in order for the harvest to please, and the work not to be wasted, it must be done correctly. The result depends on many factors: the quality of the seed material, soil characteristics, planting technology.

The amount of harvest depends on the correct planting of potatoes

Preparing the seeds

Choice good seeds- half the battle. Procurement of planting material begins at the stage of autumn harvesting:

vegetables are sorted, separating smaller ones for planting, large ones, left for eating;
it is preferable to choose seeds from those bushes where the number of potatoes was maximum;
the optimal size of the tuber, with a diameter of 4-5 cm, approximately the size of a chicken egg;
you can take a little larger, they will ripen earlier, and the harvest on them will be a little more.

Potatoes that are too large can also be used as seed material, but certain varieties will end up with many small fruits, and the overrun will be significant.

Some gardeners believe that the lack of planting material can be filled by using cut potatoes into several pieces. This option has the right to exist when there are not enough small-caliber seeds. In this case, after cutting, the parts must be dried in the sun, sprinkled with ash. But the result will please if the weather is dry and warm. A rainy spring can ruin all planting material: since the surface without skin is easily exposed to diseases, becomes infected with a fungus, and rots.

When buying seeds at retail outlets, you should not chase after super-elite varieties. They will give a good harvest, provided that agricultural technology is properly organized, but the most productive are the elite categories. It would be useful to familiarize yourself with the quality certificate, if the potato claims to be varietal, the seller must have this document. Otherwise, there is a risk of buying infected seeds, from which you will not only not wait for the harvest, but also the soil will have to be rid of pests and diseases for several years.

Potatoes for planting should not be too large

Before boarding

About a month before the potatoes are planted, they should be taken out of the cellar to “wake up” the tubers. Here, too, the process must be approached correctly:

the root crop is dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection and put in boxes for germination in one layer;
for a week, planting material is kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees;
in the future, it will be correct to lower the temperature to 10 degrees;
you should not keep a container with seeds in a dark place, then the sprouts will not stretch out, but will be strong and strong;
during this period, it must be periodically moistened with water and turned over.

Humidification is alternated with spraying with a solution of ash and a mineral complex of fertilizers. This will make it possible for the seed material to become healthy, saturate with nutrients.

When sprouts of at least 1 cm appear, you can start planting. Tubers should first be treated with copper-containing preparations to prevent early phytophthora.

Tip: Potatoes can be pickled to avoid infection of seeds. The solution is prepared from the calculation: boric acid(20 g) per 10 liters of water. Then the seeds are immersed in the liquid for a few seconds.

Suitable for planting tubers with sprouts of at least 1 cm

Site preparation

Well, if the soil in the garden is light loamy and sandy, drained peat lands and forest soils are perfect. heavy and acidic soils culture suffers worse. Acidity undesirable, potatoes grow worse on it, get sick more often, and pests attack weak plants. In this case, manure and lime will help improve the composition of the earth.

Rotation must be taken into account. A vegetable should not be planted earlier than 3 years after its previous planting. Good precursors for culture are:

cabbage;
carrot;
beet;
leafy vegetables.

It is especially important to prepare the ground:

The area intended for potatoes is cleared of tops and the remains of previous plants. To prevent diseases and pests from spreading, it must be burned.
It is necessary to fertilize the land with rotted organic matter: 3-4 kg of manure per m / sq.
Dig deep into the soil under the shovel. Large clods of earth do not need to be broken, melt water and the rains will do it themselves, but the earth will not cake and will be soft and fluffy.
With the onset of spring, add complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
It is imperative to loosen the earth or dig it up again using a shovel to a depth of 10 cm.
If the site is located in a lowland, it is important to provide drainage to drain excess water.

The plot for potatoes should not be located in a damp place

When to plant

Landing time is a tricky issue. Depend on the area weather conditions, timing of culture maturation. You should not rush, it is better to wait for stable warm weather, but you don’t need to let the earth dry out too much either. Here you need to find the golden mean:

Folk wisdom advises planting a root crop when small leaves appear on the poplar and birch.
The best planting option is considered if the soil has warmed up to a depth of 10 cm to 10 degrees, and the average nighttime indicators also do not fall below.

If the tubers have sprouted, their sprouts are strong, then when the soil warms up to about 6 degrees, potatoes can be planted. Experienced gardeners they assure that the harvest only benefits from this.

A strong potato sprout can withstand temperatures not lower than +6 degrees

Landing technology

What should be considered when planting potatoes? First of all, the space between the rows. Usually the recommended width according to the scheme is 80x35. If you plant more often, then problems will arise:

the stems will darken each other, begin to stretch;
they will be poorly ventilated, and this is a direct road to late blight;
high-quality hilling will not work, as a result, some tubers will be open and turn green;
sufficient aeration of the soil will not be achieved.

But if there is little land, it is allowed to shorten the gap if early ripening varieties are used on fertile black soil: their tops are not very powerful and high, so 60 cm is enough between rows.

The quality of the crop depends on the distance between the tubers, Usually the average recommended width between the holes is 35 cm. But here, too, there are options:

small non-standard tubers are allowed to be planted at a distance of 20 cm;
an early variety allows a width of 26 cm (you can use a shovel as a guide: this is about one and a half bayonet);
late varieties and large tubers prefer planting at a distance of at least 30 cm;
if you plant potatoes on heavy soils large sizes, then the space should be increased to 45 cm.

Potato bushes should not be located close to each other

The depth of the holes also matters, the optimal depth of the root crop under the shovel is not less than 7 cm, but it makes no sense to plant more than 10 cm. Here, soil features also play a role, as does the size of potatoes:

large seed material should be properly planted deeper, small, higher to the surface;
for light fertile land, 10 cm is quite acceptable;
on dense clayey areas seeds are not buried deep, 5 cm is enough.

With any scheme, the rows should be even, and the depth should be the same. It is good if a pinch of fertilizer, ash and humus is added to the hole during planting. It is necessary to plant potatoes with a sprout down, a layer will remain under the tuber loose earth, then the bush will turn out sprawling, it will be well ventilated and illuminated.

After laying the seeds, they are covered with earth and leveled with a rake, mulched with peat.

If you plant potatoes, taking into account all the subtleties, then in the fall you can wait for an unprecedented harvest. Over time, experience and secrets of success will appear, then every year the result will please more and more.

In the spring, many gardeners experience an irresistible temptation to plant potatoes thicker: they want to reap the maximum yield from the minimum area. But practice shows that the size and number of tubers largely depend on the potato planting pattern and the distance between rows.

Using any of the popular schemes, the vegetable grower must take into account that the proposed method of placing beds and holes is not a dogma. It can and should be changed according to climatic conditions in the region, soil type, potato variety, ease of processing.

Any of the schemes involves preliminary marking of the site. This is usually done with two pegs and a cord stretched between them. Pegs are driven into the ground along the edges of the future beds. It is convenient to take care in advance that the height of the pegs is equal to the width of the row spacing: then you do not have to measure the distance between future beds with a centimeter.

Planting potatoes in rows (under a shovel)

Rice. 1. Scheme of planting potatoes under a shovel

The easiest and most time-tested way is to plant potatoes in rows, under a shovel (Fig. 1):

1. Before planting potatoes, the earth is dug up and fertilized.

2. Pegs mark the edges of the future beds.

3. Holes are made with a shovel at a distance of about 30 cm from each other. To not think about where it should be next hole, it is better to use a marker. The distance between the holes depends on the variety of potatoes. For early varieties with not too thick tops, 25 cm is enough, for late ones - 30–35 cm.

If the gardener does not know the characteristics of the variety, how thick the tops will be can be judged by the number of shoots on the tubers: the more there are, the greater the distance between the holes should be. The tops of one bush should not obscure the tops of another: in order for the harvest to be plentiful, shoots need as much light as possible for intensive photosynthesis. An exception is the case when seedlings are planted from eyes or single shoots: it is enough that the distance between the holes is 20–25 cm. The heavier the soil, the less deep the holes are: for sandy soils- 8-10 cm, for loamy - 5-6 cm.

4. It is convenient when one person digs holes, and the other puts fertilizer and potatoes in them (preferably so as not to break fragile sprouts). When planting seedlings from eyes or shoots, an additional half-liter jar of water is poured into each well.

5. Planted potatoes are sprinkled with earth from the next hole.

6. Outline the location of the neighboring beds. On fig. 1 distance between rows when planting potatoes - 70 cm. In small areas, when planting early varieties, the width is sometimes reduced to 60 cm. It should be borne in mind that the potatoes will have to be hilled twice, and the ground for this is taken from the row spacing. If they are too narrow, then during hilling or processing, there is a high probability of damage to the root system of the bushes.

The main disadvantage of this method is that if it rains heavily, the potatoes will suffocate.

Planting potatoes in ridges

Rice. 2. Schematic representation of ridges in section

Planting potatoes in ridges is one of the the best options in areas with heavy rainfall. With this scheme, the tubers are located above the soil level, and rainwater flows into the aisles without harming the potatoes. Even in well-retaining clay soil, the crop will not die.

Method algorithm:

The ridges are cut with a cultivator or plow. The distance between them is determined in the same way as in the case of landing under a shovel. Comb height - 15 cm;
At the tops of the ridges, at a distance of 30 cm from each other, they dig holes 5-6 cm deep, put one tuber in them and cover them with earth.

The disadvantage of this method is that if the soil is sandy or sandy, the ridges dry out quickly, so the potatoes have to be watered often.

Planting potatoes in trenches

Fig.3. The scheme of planting potatoes in trenches

In dry regions good harvest can be achieved by planting potatoes in trenches. In the fall, they dig trenches 20–30 cm deep and lay organic matter in them (a mixture of compost, manure, wet hay, sometimes ash is added). The distance between the trenches is 70 cm.

In the spring, when the humus settles, the depth of the grooves will be about 5 cm. When planting, the tubers are laid out at a distance of 30 cm from each other, then sprinkled with earth. With this method, you do not need to additionally fertilize the potatoes: everything you need is already in the compost layer. Humus warms the tubers, and they sprout faster.

With heavy rainfall, potatoes planted in trenches are in danger of rotting. Therefore, if there is a danger of heavy rains, grooves 10-15 cm deep are cut along the edge of the beds, designed to drain water.

Another disadvantage of the method is its high labor intensity: for arranging trenches and mulching, you need a lot of compost and straw.

Planting potatoes in double beds

Fig.4. Schematic representation of double beds in a section

With the help of pegs, double beds are marked:

the distance between rows in the beds is 40 cm;
the distance between the beds is 110 cm.

Potatoes are planted in holes arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The distance between the holes in the row is 30 cm. When the potatoes sprout, they are spudded in such a way that a trapezoidal ridge with a base width of 110 cm is formed.

With this landing method root system potatoes get more space, and the tops - more light, therefore, the yield increases. Moreover, 2 beds of 2 rows of potatoes take up as much space as 4 single rows. But processing potatoes is much easier. The scheme is used when landing in the usual way, in ridges and in trenches.

Planting potatoes using the Mittlider method

Fig.5. Schematic representation of the beds, broken according to the Mittlider system

Dr. Mittlider's system is extremely effective, but some gardeners feel that too much land is wasted when using this method. In fact, potatoes planted according to the above scheme develop into optimal conditions resulting in record yields.

The plot is divided into beds 45 cm wide. Potatoes are planted in two rows, in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between the holes is 30 cm. Borders 8–10 cm high are formed on the sides of the beds. A groove is made in the center of each bed where fertilizers are poured: according to the classical method - mineral, but many vegetable growers replace them with organic matter. The distance between the beds is 75–110 cm.

Fig.6. Scheme of a plot with beds divided according to the Mittlider system

Despite the fact that in the beginning considerable efforts are required to form the beds, in subsequent years there will be no problems with weeding: weeds do not grow in trampled aisles, and they are easy to remove from loose beds.

We plant potatoes on a rope. The distance from one tuber to another is about 35-45 cm. But they didn’t specifically measure between the rows, but it turns out like this: we plant a row of potatoes, dig the next row, filling the potatoes and dig the second row idlequot ;. And in the third row we plant tubers again. Well, in fact, it comes out about 60 cm.

There are two methods of planting potatoes that most use on small areas. This landing is discharged and compact. In the first case, if space permits, potatoes are planted in rows, and the distance between the rows is greater than the distance between the bushes in the row. The first is 25-35 centimeters, the second is from 50 centimeters. This makes it easy to later process potatoes - weed and hill up, creating the very hills in which most tubers will form. The second method of landing in a limited space in groups. On a small area, 6-8 potatoes are planted almost closely, then a meter recedes and a bunch is created again. The space is used more economically, although the yield may be slightly lower. However, this method is ideal for summer cottages when potatoes are grown not for storage, but for cooking immediately after digging.

We plant like this : if potatoes early variety, then the distance between the tubers is 25 cm, we measure the first row with a centimeter and then plant it equal to the first row, and the distance between the rows is 60 cm, but if we plant potatoes of late varieties, then the distance between the tubers is 35 cm, we also measure with a centimeter and equal to the first measured row, and the distance between rows is 70 cm.

Planting depth of tubers is 8-10 cm.

In general, the distance can be different. It all depends on the required landing density and the availability of landing space. We usually use a distance between rows equal to 1-1.5 times the length of the metal part of the shovel. And between the bushes 0.5-1 length.

I plant early potatoes in the dacha in the combs. The distance between the ridges is 70-80 centimeters, between plants 30-40 centimeters. I plant later varieties just solid in the field. Between rows 60-70 centimeters, between plants 40-50. With dense plantings, potatoes must be watered so that the plants have enough moisture, be sure to loosen and spud. If the care and land is good, those potatoes will grow with denser plantings, only it will be more difficult to process them.

When we planted potatoes, as a rule, we made a small distance between the tubers, about thirty centimeters. Here, between the rows of potatoes, we retreated more. About seventy centimeters, well, about twice as much as between the tubers

25 centimeters between tubers is too little. The roots and tubers of potatoes will not have enough nutrition with such a close planting and the harvest will be appropriate - small potatoes.

At least 30 - 35 centimeters should be the distance between the tubers, and between the rows - 1 step (70 - 80 cm).

The distance between the rows of potatoes and individual tubers depends on the method of planting this beloved crop. Here, for example, with such an unconventional method of planting as slidequot ;, the distance between the tubers is only 20-25 centimeters. When landing in the barrel the distance between the tubers is at least half a meter, and between the rows - up to one meter.

The photo shows a method of growing potatoes in straw. The distance between the tubers is 30-50 centimeters, and between the rows - up to seventy centimeters.

Landing tape method a distance of 110 centimeters is left between the ribbons, and at least thirty centimeters between two rows in the ribbon.

We use more often traditional way growing potatoes, in which the distance between the tubers is up to seventy centimeters, and between the rows - at least a meter, so that the bushes can be well hilled.

And another point: early potatoes are planted more often than mid-season and late varieties.

We follow the following rule in the country: the rows are located at a distance of seventy to eighty centimeters (usually seventy) from each other, the distance between the tubers in a row when planted under a plow is about forty to forty-five centimeters. When planting under a shovel, pits are dug to the width of the shovel, the distance between the pits is close to each other (the distance between the tubers is approximately the same: 40-45 cm).

Usually when we plant potatoes on a plot, we measure the distance from hole to hole in steps, usually we measure two steps from one hole to another, we also do it with rows, we also separate the distance from one to another row in two steps. The most important thing is that the holes and rows are not crowded.

Gardeners already have a trained eye, and of course, before planting potatoes, they mark out their site and for this they make grooves, along which they subsequently plant potatoes.

And in order to increase the yield, after planting, the holes with potatoes are sprinkled with a small layer of peat a couple of centimeters.

The correct distance between rows with potatoes is seventy-five centimeters for early potatoes. And ninety centimeters for late varieties of potatoes.

But the planting density will directly depend on the size of the potato tubers. Small tubers should be planted after twenty centimeters, and large ones after thirty centimeters.

The depth depends on the soil, and can be from six to ten centimeters.