When the earth is raked from winter garlic. Secrets of large garlic: breaking arrows and raking the earth. Causes and signs

In late July - early August, garlic ripens. And this is an extremely important moment. Garlic is an unpretentious, even unkillable crop, but you can easily lose the entire crop if you miss the harvesting lines.

Sometimes it happens like this: the garlic always worked out, there was no trouble with it, and suddenly it began to rot. And what you just don’t do: change the landing site, completely renew planting material, you fertilize, you stop fertilizing - still nothing happens. The solution is this: carefully monitor the garlic, and he himself will tell you when to plant it and when to clean it.

Arrows and harvest

There has been a discussion at FORUMHOUSE for many years on the topic: does the cutting of arrows affect the quality of the garlic crop or not? It happens that leaving arrows on half of the garden for experiment, gardeners get the same harvest from it. And there is a temptation not to remove the arrows, especially when it is tight with planting material.

This is wrong, the arrows must be cut off, only left on 3-4 plants for bulbs and "beacons". By the way, in one inflorescence 100-200 bulbs - enough for the eyes.

Unbroken arrows really affect the yield. The fact is that at first garlic grows arrows (it takes 3-4 weeks) and only then throws all its strength into the growth of cloves. It turns out that those gardeners who leave the garlic to stand longer give the garlic with arrows the opportunity to catch up with the garlic without arrows. But there is not always such an opportunity, besides, it is impossible to overdo the garlic in the garden. Therefore, the arrows must be removed.

If the arrows are not used for harvesting, cooking garlic salt and the favorite dish of many summer residents, “fried arrows”, then they must be cut or plucked immediately as they appear. Otherwise, the arrows are allowed to grow up to 20 centimeters. Please note: winter garlic shoots unfriendly, at different times, so you need to inspect the beds more often and cut off the flower stalks.

After breaking off the arrows, you can make potash fertilizer, garlic respects him very much. It can be a complex - with a predominance of potassium or IFC, it can be ash. The advantage of ash is that it does not acidify the soil.

Arrow language, stub signals

Several arrows left on the garlic bed act as beacons. They must be watched all the time: they twisted into a ring - the garlic continues to grow, straightened up - triple your vigilance, harvest soon. As soon as the peel bursts on the box, harvest. Anyway, do it in the next two days.

Don't be embarrassed if the stems are still green! You do not need stems, but bulbs. And from the very moment when the skin on the inflorescence bursts, they do not grow and begin to crack. Moisture and rot spores, which are everywhere, even on the space station, get into the head, and it begins to rot.

In general, it is better not to keep the garlic in the ground than to overdo it, then it is better stored. The harvested garlic is sent to the shade for ripening, and then the stems are cut and the roots are removed from the head.

Highly important point, which few people know about: after harvesting the garlic, several heads are placed on the garden bed, left there and check the roots from time to time. It doesn't matter if they are wet or dry, clean or with clods of earth - in about two to three months, depending on the weather this year, you will see that the roots are firmly pressed against the ground and begin to grow into it. This is a sign: it's time to plant garlic before winter. So you definitely can't go wrong.

Even number of teeth

Winter garlic is planted in the so-called "miner's" way: deep, three bulb heights. Such garlic does not sprout in the fall, it sits safely in the ground spring frosts and only then starts to grow. The soil should be fertile and non-acidic, the place should be as sunny as possible, planting material should be good and preferably from your region.

Another trick that few people know: heads with a small number of cloves are selected for planting (ideally 4, no more). Then the heads will grow large.

Smolyanka

A neighbor taught me to choose garlic with an even number of cloves for planting. The smaller the number of teeth, the larger and stronger they are, and I choose these. I also noticed that a medium-sized garlic is obtained from a single-tooth, and already a large one grows from its cloves.

The garlic bed should be located north-south in length - then the bulbs will be both denser and larger. In early July, it will be necessary to rake the earth from each plant, freeing the upper third of the head. This will help you get larger garlic bulbs and speed up their ripening. This is a rather dreary task, but the result will exceed your expectations. And it will be convenient to pull out the garlic.

Cute

I rake the ground not so that the garlic grows larger, but so that the shirt gets stronger. And most importantly, in my garden there are such small worms that, if I don’t open the garlic in time, they will definitely make a hole in it.

Knot on leaves

Shortly after the breakage of the arrows, about 20 days before ripening, the garlic is no longer watered and the mulch is removed. If the stalks of garlic grow tall and fat, this is not a reason to worry.

The larger the leaf apparatus, the more nutrients the plant will store, and the larger the head will grow. And to organize the outflow of nutrients into the bulbs, tie the leaves in a knot.

Quail

About tying the leaves into a knot: then there is an outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the heads. Tie garlic, if you decide, you need a month before harvesting.

When the leaves turn yellow, many use fertilizers containing copper oxychloride. But in the soil, it does not disintegrate, does not dissolve and is prone to accumulation. It is often enough to fertilize the bed with chicken manure, and in a week the plants will be transformed.

Massive yellowing of the leaves before the usual ripening time can be caused not only by a lack or excess of trace elements, moisture, etc., but also by more serious reasons: white rot or onion fly. Both of these misfortunes develop most often in dry and hot summers.

How to cook arrows and heads

Arrows can be fried - you get a very tasty addition to the side dish (potatoes), and they are quite good on their own. You can scroll through a meat grinder, freeze and add to soups or stews in winter. Can be mixed with butter. Can be marinated. You can freeze whole: the upper flower-bearing part will go into cabbage soup, and the tips - into pilaf and sauces.

Try putting young heads of garlic in pilaf - it will turn out perfect. The wings that have already begun to form will become soft in pilaf, and the heads will become sweet, without garlic smell.

Young garlic is marinated with beets and red currants or according to a simple scheme: the heads are dipped in boiling water for 2 minutes, then immediately into ice water (preferably with ice), then poured with cold marinade. Marinade: water, grape or Apple vinegar, salt, sugar, spices - all to taste. After 3-4 days, put in the refrigerator, and you can eat.

In order for the garlic to be preserved until the new harvest in an apartment, dry it well and put it in boxes or three-liter jars sprinkling with salt. More good way: storage in paraffin. Melt a paraffin candle in a water bath, gently, holding the stem, dip the head of garlic into this paraffin. The trick here is that the garlic will “breathe” through the stem. You need garlic - peel off the paraffin shell, and that's it.

Here old way, published in the magazine "Peasant Woman": dry the garlic, cut off the leaves and roots, put in enamel pan layers, dusting each layer with flour. Cover the pot with a lid and put in a dry place. Until spring, the garlic will be as if it had just been removed from the garden.

Garlic is sweeter than beets and is therefore forbidden for diabetics.

Brown cloves in the heads of garlic should not scare. It's not rot and it's not a mite. Yes - and this is another little known fact about garlic - caramelized juice appears. The fact is that garlic is extremely rich in sugars, it is sweeter than beets and therefore, by the way, is prohibited for diabetics. Winter garlic contains more sugars than spring garlic, it dries out on contact with air, the juice caramelizes. The appearance of brown cloves is explained only by a violation of the integrity of the garlic skin. That is why it is necessary to remove the garlic and store it, preventing damage to the bulbs.

All conversations on garlic topics are ongoing. More about landings winter garlic read in this

I do not plant garlic and do not make beds for garlic. How much garlic I need, I will dig up so much. I need a bucket of garlic, so much I will dig up, or rather, I don’t dig it out, but simply pull out the garlic by the arrow. If whole heads remain, a family grows out of them. The heads of garlic are large, even though they were all sitting together. According to my method, many gardeners are already working, but what happens is: I dug up a bucket of garlic, then buried half, and I also need to plant it later. We once planted garlic under the snow, it snowed early. And how much garlic took a good area! I really didn’t like this work, and the garlic became small and I had to buy another garlic. Now my largest garlic grows at 140 grams.

When the garlic begins to release an arrow, and bulbs grow at the end of the arrow, you leave the largest arrows, a few pieces, you cut off the rest when the arrow begins to twist on the second turn. If you do not break off the head on the arrow, then the head of garlic will be smaller. When the bulbs that you specially left grow, and the film on the head bursts and the bulbs are clearly visible, you dig it out along with the garlic.

Bulbs should separate well. We do not take all the bulbs, but only the largest ones. At the end of August, I scatter bulbs throughout the garden. Highly good garlic grows along raspberries, near the path. You can’t go into raspberries, otherwise you will pull garlic out of the ground, you can spoil the roots of raspberries. Raspberries you feed, and garlic also gets food. The sun does not fry the garlic much, and it grows longer, the head becomes larger. Very good neighborhood. Garlic also grows well along the fence, if the land is good there.

You can not plant garlic and onions in strawberries, you lose 30% of the harvest of berries. The first year you scattered the bulbs. On the next year you have a one-year-old, this is one large head without teeth. It is not necessary to dig it up, it does not give an arrow. Some gardeners dig, it seems to me that this is a waste of time. I don't dig up yearlings. I dug out part of the same-year-olds, there was no difference. So why do the extra work?
And my motto is "WORK LESS, GET MORE", of course, if everything is done correctly. A week later, I add raspberries and the whole garden with horse manure or puff, a thin layer, mulch. It can be humus. If you have a fresh mullein, then it must be scattered on the frozen ground. In the spring, when the snow melts, your garden will receive the first top dressing. Bulbs, like garlic, have a very strong root system. During autumn, the root system draws the bulb into the ground. If the winter is very cold, then the bulbs and garlic will go deep into the ground. You probably noticed that after the cold winter, when it was time to dig, the garlic was deep in the ground, although you did not plant it deep.
You can watch the bulbs. Spread them somewhere and you will see how the roots begin to pull the bulbs into the ground. The earth should be loose, and not like a stone.

If you follow my recommendations, then the earth in your garden will be loose. I remind you once again that in the fall I sprinkle them so that in the spring they receive the first top dressing, when the snow begins to melt. To obtain full harvest without planting garlic, you need three years. In the meantime, you will need to plant garlic and scatter large bulbs. The first year you scattered the bulbs. In the second year, one-year-olds will grow, you do not dig them up. In the third year, you dig real garlic. Through the bulbs, you will always renew the garlic, and you will have it large and healthy. Along the raspberries you can plant cloves and bulbs, after 30 - 40cm. When your garlic begins to climb everywhere, like a weed, then you can not plant garlic, but only scatter large bulbs every year. Please note: garlic is not always large. If in one place it is shallow, then the land there is bad or he does not like this place. Then in this place it is not necessary to scatter bulbs. If you dig up the garlic in time, it will lie well until the next harvest. Garlic should be dug when the upper thin layer on the head of garlic is covered, but DOES NOT burst. If the top layer on the garlic has burst, then this garlic is not suitable for storage. It should be used immediately or for landing, if the slices are large. The arrow must be cut off immediately, leaving a stump of 2-3 cm. If you don't cut right away, the arrow will start to draw the juice out of the garlic and the head of garlic will get smaller. If you plant garlic in the beds, then the distance between the garlic should be at least 15cm. and planting depth 2-3cm; mulch with humus so that the earth does not dry out. It is not necessary to water after planting. During the season, be sure to feed 2-3 times. When the garlic rises in the spring, sprinkle the ground with ashes.

If you come across rotten garlic, then before planting, shed the ground with "Fitosporin", as well as if you plant for several years in one place. Water in the spring too. Watering should be done if it is hot and the ground is dry, it is better if your garlic is mulched.
Garlic should be stored at home in a box or stocking in a cool place. Dry at home for two weeks before storage. I spread newspapers on the floor and dry it for two weeks. Then I put it in a stocking and hang it behind a pipe in the toilet, separate from the bath. Stores well until the next harvest.

You can dry the garlic. Finely chop the garlic and place on paper. Dries 3-4 days. When dry, grind in a coffee grinder. I keep an old coffee grinder on purpose for grinding garlic and peppers. Very comfortably. When you need garlic, you can dilute it boiled water or broth. Very tasty with dumplings. We take half a teaspoon of dry garlic, grind black pepper there and dilute it with broth from dumplings, 1-2 tablespoons of broth. Dry garlic is sold in the store. Our dry garlic tastes better.
I'll add more. This year, my garlic has already grown 224 grams, a record weight. A lot of garlic 200-210 grams.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, it begins to germinate at a temperature of 3-5 ° C, it easily tolerates frosts, and in the conditions of the Non-Chernozem Zone it can overwinter on the vine.

Cultivated garlics are divided into two subspecies: shooters (winter) and non-shooters (spring). The non-shooter forms only bulbs consisting of cloves, and the shooter, in addition to the bulb, forms an arrow bearing an inflorescence, in which aerial bulbs (bulbs) are formed instead of seeds.

Gardens usually grow their own local forms of garlic, which are available in almost every region.

Agricultural technology of garlic. Under the garlic allocate a site with fertile soil, which has a neutral reaction.

The best predecessors- early cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, under which organic fertilizers were applied.

It is impossible to place garlic after onions and garlic earlier than after 4-5 years due to common pests and diseases.

In autumn, after harvesting the previous crop, organic and mineral fertilizers are applied for garlic (5-6 kg of humus or compost, 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2). Then the site is carefully dug up on a full bayonet of a shovel, evenly mixing the fertilizer with the soil.

Growing winter garlic.

Winter garlic is planted in the second half of September - early October in the garden in an ordinary way at a distance of 20-25 cm row from row.

The teeth, depending on the size, are planted in a row at a distance of 5 to 8 cm from each other, the planting depth is 3-4 cm, counting from the top of the clove to the soil surface. Planted garlic is mulched with peat or humus with a layer of 1.5-2 cm (1.5-2 buckets per 1 m2).

In spring and summer, garlic care consists in feeding nitrogen fertilizers, watering as the soil dries up, in weeding and loosening the soil between rows.

Arrows must be regularly removed already at the beginning of their formation, so that there are large bulbs. Leave them only on seed plants.

Winter garlic ripens in late July - early August. It is impossible to be late with the harvesting of garlic, because when overripe, the heads crumble. Therefore, when the leaves of the garlic begin to turn yellow, the plants are pulled out of the soil and dried for 4-5 days - in sunny weather on the ridge, and in rainy weather under a canopy or in a well-ventilated dry room. After drying, the roots and tops are cut off, leaving a “neck” 4-5 cm long at the bulbs.

Growing spring garlic. Spring garlic is inferior in yield to winter garlic, but has the ability to be stored for a long time.

It is grown in areas with highly fertile soil that has a neutral reaction, with the introduction of organic and mineral fertilizers of the same composition and in the same doses as under winter garlic. Garlic is planted in the spring after the soil has thawed, as early as possible (in April-May). The planting rate is 50-70 g per 1 m2, the distance between rows is 20-25 cm, in a row - 5-6 cm. Planting depth from the soil surface to the top of the clove is 2-3 cm.

The emerging shoots are fed with urea (10-15 g per 1 m2) and watered as the soil dries up.

During the formation of the bulbs, 50 g of superphosphate and 15 g of potassium chloride per 1 m2 are added as top dressing.

Harvest spring garlic when dried lower leaves, yellowing and lodging top leaves at the end of August - the first half of September.

It is necessary to prepare a bed for spring garlic about a month before sowing it. It is better to choose a place for a bed where carrots, tomatoes, peppers or cauliflower used to be.

For one square meter land for garlic, you need to add one bucket of rotted humus and sawdust(you can also take them fresh), one liter jar of herbal or wood ash, fluffy lime and bird droppings.

After making humus, the earth must be dug up and leveled. After the remaining components, a simple harrowing is sufficient. After that, the bed must be heavily watered from a watering can and covered old film or cardboard.

When growing garlic, consider:

- raking the earth in the second half of June from the head of garlic contributes to the formation of a more even and large head;

- if you tie the leaves of garlic in a knot two or three days before harvesting, this will speed up its ripening and improve its keeping quality;

- to get a high yield of garlic, you need to feed it at least twice with mullein (1 kg per 8 liters of water) or chicken droppings (1 kg per 10 liters of water) per 5 square meters.

The first top dressing should be done in the germination phase of the plants, and the second - in the head formation phase.

To grow large garlic, you must first of all pay attention seed. The cloves of well-ripened garlic should be easily separated from each other, the skin of the cloves is dense, often pinkish-brown, not milky white, the bottom is dry.

Never plant garlic damaged by mold and rot! He will spoil the whole crop for you.

Before planting, soak the planting material for several hours in a sufficiently strong solution of manganese (the color is almost purple, not pink). If a spore or two of some kind of fungus has stuck there, manganese will disinfect everything.

One of the popular and useful vegetable crops, garlic, requires certain knowledge from the gardener when growing. Often they do not know how to act correctly in order to get large heads that last longer. Winter varieties of garlic are usually chosen for planting. They give larger heads, get sick less, tolerate frost well. But whether it is necessary to rake the earth from the heads of garlic so that it is larger, not every summer resident knows.

Is it necessary to rake the ground from the heads of garlic and why is this done

One of the methods of growing bulbous vegetable plants, onions and garlic, is to unravel the heads in the garden. But you need to know why this procedure is needed and when to carry it out. The purpose of raking the earth from the heads of garlic is that the reception leads to the flow of solar heat and air to the underground part of the plant. It begins to mature faster, covered with protective scales.

They dig up the ground and when necessary:

• cut off the arrows from the winter plant species;
• tie the leaves in a knot;
• break the stem.

The technique of digging heads will lead to the formation of larger bulbs. After all, the winter type of plant forms powerful and strong roots that help the vegetable to overwinter. In the first months of spring, the development of garlic and its growth will be more successful if the vegetable crop has successfully overwintered.

The need to rake the earth from the heads is to stop the growth of roots deep into the summer.

The plant after the used reception will begin to direct forces to the growth of heads. But you can not unearth the earth too early. It is necessary that the aerial part of the plant gets stronger. large leaves vegetable plant they say that he has enough nutrients, and the formation of cloves is successful. Then the method of exposing the garlic heads will benefit the plant.

The benefits and harms of exposing garlic in the garden

Agrotechnical technique, when the earth is raked from the bulbs, is needed mainly for winter garlic. The peculiarities of its cultivation are that, without the right methods, they will receive a small head instead of a powerful bulb with large cloves. The plant, having a powerful root system, tries to go deep into the ground. And by exposing the roots, it is possible to ensure that the plant directs the main forces to the formation of bulbs.

The benefits of the procedure will be when the garlic is planted at a certain distance from each other. The gap must be at least 10 centimeters. Bare heads by a third or half can be observed. After all, according to their condition, they determine whether the garlic is ready for harvesting or not. It is beneficial to dig vegetable beds when unfavorable weather sets in with rain and low temperatures. This will stop the growth of the bulb. It will begin to be covered with scales that protect it from external influences.

It is harmful to expose the underground part in the garden when the plant has not reached the desired shape. If the culture lags behind, the procedure will cause the garlic to start to hurt and die. It is impossible to carry out a denudation reception if the vegetable is preparing for winter. Otherwise, next year it will be necessary to plant the crop again. Then the harvest will not have to wait. It will only be in a year.

When to dig

Timing of head exposure vegetable crop play an important role in the vegetation of both spring and winter garlic. It is necessary to rake garlic in the garden a month before harvesting. The time of readiness of a vegetable crop for digging is determined by:

• yellowness and shrinkage of the lower part of the stem;
• opening of boxes on inflorescences;
• straight arrow for winter varieties of vegetables.

For spring garlic, it's time to bare the heads in early August. Winter bulbs, bare in the first decade of July, ripen faster. 2-3 days before the procedure. To do this, clean the bed of weeds or a layer of mulch. Stop and moisten the vegetable plant. Gently rake the ground with a short-handled tool, opening a third of the head.

The time of the reception is calculated accurately. After all, early disintegration leads to the fact that the bulb is delayed in development and dies. Later than the set time is also impossible, otherwise the garlic head will crack and begin to deteriorate.

If the garlic heads went deep into the ground

Peculiarity bulbous plants in that the heads often go deep, protecting themselves from exposure low temperatures. Hence the difficulty of harvesting when the bulbs are at depth. Breaking off the arrows and raking the earth from the bulbs helps the plant to rebuild. And nutrition after these procedures will be aimed at ensuring that large plant heads are formed.

It is necessary to free the heads of garlic from the ground on time, 20-30 days before harvesting. If this is not done, then you will have to dig the entire garden bed to find the bulbs that have gone deep. Some of them will be lost, and it will not be possible to harvest the entire crop grown.

Tips for Growing Garlic Properly

Not knowing about the peculiarities of garlic vegetation, summer residents are perplexed why it goes deep into the ground. There are certain techniques, by introducing which into the agricultural technology of culture, it is possible to obtain high and high-quality yields of a vegetable plant every year. For this:

• break off garlic arrows;
• bare heads a month before harvest;
• feed the beds with organic and mineral fertilizers;
• watered during dry summers.

Cultivation is successful when the rules are followed, all agrotechnical procedures are carried out on time. It is clear that the unwinding of the heads should be carried out 30 days before harvesting. But getting large garlic is also associated with such a technique as breaking arrows.

If the goal of growing is powerful plant bulbs, then it is simply necessary to remove the arrows. After all, garlic directs forces to the ripening of inflorescences on the arrows and the formation of air bulbs. The summer resident needs to remove the arrows in order to nutrients went to the enlargement and maturation of the heads in the ground. Broken arrows can be used as a spice, adding to dishes or preparations.

You can leave several control arrows on winter varieties to determine the time the vegetable is ready for harvest. The method of removing arrows is the prevention of plant diseases.

Why tie tops

Another way to get good collection garlic is to tie the tops a few days before harvesting the bulbs. The reception will accelerate the yellowing of the leaves, and as a result, the bulb will begin to strengthen, which is important for a quality crop. Spring garlic lends itself easily to this technique. The plant does not have hard arrows. Therefore, it is easy to tie the tops into a knot.

In arrowing varieties of vegetables, you must first remove the hard stem, on which inflorescences will appear. They are cut off or cut with a sharp knife. Only after that they begin to tie the tops, trying not to twist the leaves. After harvesting, the plants are folded under a canopy to dry without cutting the feather. Thanks to this, nutrients will still flow to the garlic heads. Only when the leaves are completely dry, it will be possible to cut them.

Summer residents believe that the method of tying tops, as well as exposing the heads of culture, contributes to the accelerated formation of bulbs, improving their quality and yield.

Diseases and pests

Often the yellowing of the leaves of the bulbous culture is a signal of the disease, among which the most common signs are:

• black mold;
• white rot;
• peronosporosis;
• rust.

The occurrence of diseases is associated with adverse weather conditions, when it rains and the air temperature drops. In addition, stagnant water in the soil leads to rotting of the bulbs. Reception of raking the earth from the heads of garlic helps to increase the flow of air to the bulb. Then pathogenic fungi will leave the garden.

It is necessary to fight them with insecticides: Aktellik, Calypso, Neoron. But their action can be prevented by raking from the bulbs of the earth, as well as by tying the tops into a knot. The larvae will not be able to move on the leaves, and they will have nothing to eat.

Those who have recently started growing garlic need to know how to properly carry out certain techniques, what effect they will have on the bulb crop:

1. It is necessary to choose varieties of garlic, taking into account what sizes of heads are needed, how long the crop is stored. Winter plant species produce bulbs more powerful than spring varieties. But spring is better and longer.
2. Planting time is chosen depending on the types of garlic. Spring crops are sown in spring, and winter crops are sown in September-October. It is important that the soil temperature at this time be within 5-10 degrees Celsius. Later it can not be planted, as the crop will be smaller and it will not be well preserved.
3. They open garlic bulbs in the garden, raking the earth from the heads a month before harvesting the vegetable. You need to do this when the weather starts to deteriorate. Reception allows you to accelerate the ripening of vegetable crops. You can tie the tops into a knot when you need to start picking garlic due to weather disasters. Techniques help prevent rotting heads, stop the attack of pests.
4. To grow garlic, you need loose soil, moderate watering. You can increase the air supply to the underground part by exposing the heads.
5. Arrow removal is important for high yields. Then the nutrients will go to the formation of strong heads.

Despite the unpretentiousness, bulb culture requires knowledge and adherence to certain agricultural practices. But they must be carried out on time and competently, taking into account the type of plant, the characteristics of its development.

Garlic is divided into winter and spring. Each has pros and cons. Winter gives big harvest but poorly stored. Spring yields a smaller crop, but lasts until next year.

plant species

How to distinguish spring from winter appearance? A rigid rod sticks out of the middle of the bulb of a winter crop - the rest of the arrow. The spring one does not have such a rod, so it does not shoot. The teeth of the winter bulb are large and form one layer. The cloves of a spring bulb are small and can be arranged in two or more layers. And the main difference is different dates landing. Spring is planted in spring, and winter - in autumn. And now about the main thing - about the rules of landing.

Video about growing garlic

The technology of growing garlic is constantly being improved. So there were several landing methods, which we will now tell you about.

Method number 1 - traditional

A place is allocated for culture from under early harvested plants: cucumbers, early cabbage, radishes, legumes. The site should not be located in a lowland and flooded melt waters in the spring - the teeth will rot and die. The soil is fertilized: humus or rotted manure is introduced, a shovel is dug onto a bayonet and furrows are made every 25 cm. Uncleaned teeth are planted every 10-12 cm. Plantings are closed, watered and mulched.

Photo of planting winter garlic

Method number 2 - double landing

Double planting garlic is relevant for small areas. The main secret is that garlic is planted in 2 levels (tiers). This is done in the fall or at the end of August. The first row is located below, the second - above. We dig a groove deeper and lay out the first level of teeth at a depth of 11-12 cm. Someone will say - deep. Do not worry. They will feel great there.

We fall asleep with earth and lay out the second row at a depth of 6-7 cm. Between the teeth we make a distance of 10-15 cm, between the grooves - 25 cm. Sprinkle with earth. It turns out one tooth over the other. No one interferes with anyone, everything is enough for everyone.

Method number 3 - sowing

You can also not stick teeth into the ground, but sow, that is, lay them on a barrel or just throw them in rows. The only thing that may confuse you is the garlic head lying on its side and the crooked neck. But this does not affect the quality of products, the taste and size of the bulb.

Pictured is planting garlic

The teeth were planted and mulched. In the spring they immediately begin to grow. The tooth that turned out to be lower is in more favorable conditions. He is deeper and he is warmer there. He developed better root system. And the one that is higher warms up faster in the spring.

When to harvest garlic? The bulbs are harvested when the arrow bursts. Why then break out the arrows? If they are left, then the garlic heads will grow less. The arrow takes on food, as bulbils form on it, but it’s worth leaving a few. Garlic arrows will show you when it's ready to be harvested. The arrows are broken out not when they just appeared from the stem, but when they made a circle.

When to plant garlic?

Every autumn this question arises in all gardeners. And here, as they say, how many people, so many opinions. Someone prefers to plant a bulb 2-3 weeks before the ground freezes. The tooth manages to take root and in the spring willingly starts growing. But the early August and September planting is considered not correct, since the tips of the feather begin to turn yellow early in the plant. We will not convince you of the correctness or incorrectness of a particular method. We will tell you about our interesting experience.

We planted garlic in three terms: August 20, September 20 and October 20. Most best harvest gave the August landing. He overwintered the best. If you think about it, it immediately becomes clear why this is so. We planted him early, he managed to take root well, gained strength and immediately drove him into growth in the spring. And the worst harvest was from the October planting. It did not really take root, overwintered poorly and grew little.

If the plant managed to sprout from the August and September planting, then nothing terrible happened. That's the way it should be. To check if the August planting is so effective, plant some of the teeth early, and some when it seems right to you, and then compare the results.

You ask why sprouted garlic does not freeze? When he gave roots, the composition of the cell sap changed, there was more sugar in it. Try freezing the syrup. The syrup won't freeze, but the water will. That is, after germination, it passes into another state, it simply “falls asleep” for the winter.

top dressing

Feeding garlic in the summer closer to harvest is already useless. If you are going to feed him, then this should be done in May - June. Then he gains the weight of the bulb itself from the pen. When he wakes up, he needs it. As a top dressing, take an infusion of biohumus or horse manure. It is desirable to mulch plantings with humus or straw cut into pieces.

The aisles are sprinkled with ash from pests. Mulching helps retain moisture in the soil and protects the bulbs from overheating. You can not mulch the garlic. Cultivation and care then consist of top dressing, regular loosening, weed removal and watering.

Another rule: for planting, choose the largest teeth. Let's plant small - small bulbs and get. If the tops turn yellow, then this indicates damage to the root system. Causes: gnawed roots by pests or the action of soil rot.

If the plantings are mulched, then there is no need to water them. Under normal weather conditions enough rain water. After all, the clove has already grown roots, it will draw moisture out of the soil, and form a good bulb.

Also prefers fertile soil. If necessary, humus or rotted manure is added to the soil in the amount of 3-5 kg/m2. The teeth are planted in rows at a distance of 6-7 cm from each other. A distance of 25-28 cm is maintained between rows. The approximate depth of embedding garlic cloves is 3 cm. We will describe two methods.

Method number 1 - traditional

Planted spring in early spring April 15-25. Before planting, the heads are divided into cloves and sorted by size. Slices of each size are preferably planted in separate grooves. Care consists in regular loosening of row-spacings, watering and removal of weeds. If the plantings are mulched, as mentioned above, there is no need for watering.

Method number 2 - sprouted teeth

Garlic heads are stored all winter at a temperature of 20 0 C. At the end of March, the onions are disassembled into slices, soaked for 3 hours in water room temperature, are taken out to the cellar, where they are laid out in one layer and covered with rags or film. When the roots grow 2-5 cm long, the teeth are planted in moist soil.

Photo of planting garlic

Spring plants are fed, as well as winter plants, with infusion of mullein, biohumus or horse manure. From inorganic fertilizers use urea at the rate of 1 Matchbox on a bucket of water when shoots appear, then after 10 days and a third time at the end of June. From pests in the aisles, ash is scattered.

Spring bulbs are harvested during the mass drying of the feather of the lower tier of the plant in the third decade of August - the first decade of September. The bulbs selected from the soil are laid out in one row for drying under a canopy. The tops must be completely dry. Do not rush to cut the green shoots of garlic, as the bulb receives nutrition from them and continues to grow during drying. Dry tops are cut off, leaving 5 cm.

Garlic tends to degenerate, like potatoes. When propagated by teeth, diseases gradually accumulate in the culture, the yield decreases. To prevent this from happening, from time to time garlic is renewed from bulbs (air). In the first year, single teeth are obtained from the air. In the second year, full-fledged bulbs grow from them. Garlic turns out to be healthy and there is no need to run around looking for planting material, especially since it is quite expensive.

Photograph of garlic

Bulbs are taken from plants in which the arrow was left. When the inflorescence bursts and the bulbs turn into the color characteristic of this variety, the inflorescences are broken out, put in a dry place for ripening. Bulbs with a diameter of 4-5 mm are taken for landing.

Method number 1 - traditional

Bulbs are sown in the first days of October. Humus 3-4 kg per 1 m 2 is introduced into the soil, dug up. Make rows up to 4 cm deep at a distance of 10 cm from each other. The rows are watered, every 3 cm air is laid out and sprinkled with earth. In spring and summer, care for crops is the same as for ordinary garlic. By the beginning of August, single-toothed bulbs grow from the bulbs, which are dug out when the tops turn yellow. They are dried and used for autumn planting on a full-fledged bulb.

Method number 2 - direct

In the first year of air traditional method single-toothed are grown. In August, single teeth are not dug up, but left for the winter in the soil. next spring plants are carefully thinned out, thus increasing the distance between the remaining bulbs. By the end of May, the distance between rows should be 25 cm, and between single teeth in a row - 10-12 cm.

Video about growing garlic and caring for it

Method number 3 - growing through winter

Bulbs are sown in the first half of June. Until then, they are stored unthreshed in the refrigerator. By the second decade of September, the plants already have 4-5 leaves, a good root system and a thick, pencil-thick stem. In October, winter plants harden and overwinter well. The following year, full-fledged bulbs develop from them.

We shared with you all the secrets that we used ourselves. Now you know how to grow garlic. It's up to you. Choose the method you like, and preferably a few, so that later you can compare the results and grow a huge crop, to your delight and your neighbors to envy.