Planting garlic before winter must be carried out at strictly defined times. How to plant garlic before winter for good yields

Features and differences from landing in the spring

In autumn, winter varieties are sown that are resistant to cold. Such garlic has a dense outer shell, the root system is highly developed. With the right fit winter garlic get early shoots. Vegetables, unlike those sown in spring, are well stored until next summer without loss of taste and vitamin properties.

In the spring, spring varieties of garlic are planted. Such cultures quickly “kick out” shoots that are softer in taste, with a pronounced aroma.

Attention!

Garlic grown in spring is not stored in winter.

The main differences between autumn and spring plantings are in several ways. These include:

Sowing time in open ground. Winter planting is done 35-45 days before severe cold weather (they are guided by weather conditions), around the end of September - in October. In the spring, they are sown early, from the moment the snow melts (the earth should warm up to +6 degrees), that is, approximately in March - April, it is carried out in the Moscow region, in Siberia - in early May.
Preparatory work. The beds are cultivated from the middle of summer for autumn crops, and from autumn for spring plantings. Winter garlic is not planted in areas where manure was applied, so that the crops do not have abundant tops, a tendency to fungal diseases, and excessive friability of the heads. For winter garlic is necessary sandy soil, and for spring varieties - medium loamy soils.
Seed sowing depth. In spring, it is from 3 to 6 cm, but in autumn it should be from 6 to 8 cm. northern regions and under little snowy weather conditions, it is recommended to plant before winter much deeper, from about 10 to 13 cm.
Primary planting care. Winter garlic must be mulched, crops are not irrigated, as moisture will come from the soil through the roots. Spring crops are immediately recommended to be watered. You have to be a lot more careful and preventive measures from pests and diseases.

The quality of the crop, both during autumn and spring plantings, will depend on a well-chosen variety of garlic. For autumn, it is better to take crops that are resistant to frost, pest damage, and fungal diseases.

Can I plant in winter

Spring

Many vegetable growers cultivate spring garlic in the winter way. The main thing is to carry out timely landings, choose frost-resistant variety, use intact large onions, and then you can collect excellent harvest. Garlic heads grown by this method from selected cloves are very large, they can reach 100 grams in weight.

Many people think that sowing spring garlic before winter just needs to be done in order to collect as many bulbs as possible. large size. In addition, high-quality planting material is obtained in this way.

last year

You can also plant garlic from the previous year's harvest in the beds before winter. Provided that you manage to keep it, which is not easy. The main thing is that the teeth are large and of high quality, without damaged husks, not crushed, with no spots, cracks, dryness.

Sowing is carried out in accordance with all the rules, and garlic is disinfected in ash lye - a specially made solution of ash (0.4 kg) and water (2 l), which must be boiled for half an hour (without teeth!), cool, only then placed in it teeth for 2 hours. Bulbs must be dried before sowing.

Features of landing in different climatic zones

Sowing garlic before winter directly depends on climatic conditions the area where the crop will be grown. It is necessary not only to plant the teeth on time, but also to do this by choosing the right recess so that the vegetables do not freeze out and do not sprout earlier with a slight warming.

In the regions of central Russia, start winter crops recommended from late September to mid-October. With stable warm weather, you can postpone the dates until November. The main thing is to be in time with the procedure 1–1.5 months before the frost. In the Moscow region, they usually start planting in mid-October. Popular varieties of garlic among summer residents in this area include: "Spas", "Messidor", "Gribovsky Yubileiny", "Kharkovsky". The depth of planting bulbs on the beds is made from 6 to 8 cm.

In the Urals, landings begin, most often, from the end of September. And in Siberia - from mid-August - early September. In a cold climate, they are guided by the temperature on the ground, it should be in optimal terms, that is, at least +6 degrees. In frozen soil, the bulbs do not have time to take root, they do not winter well, they can freeze out.

In cold climates, the insertion depth should be as deep as possible. The bookmark is made by 10 - 13 cm or more. This is especially necessary during the predicted snowless winter.

How to choose a variety

For comparison, up to 22 winter varieties and only 6 spring varieties are selected for planting in autumn. Among the main differences are the following nuances:

Winter garlic has fewer cloves in the bulbs. Their number is approximately from 5 to 10 pieces, but their size is much larger.
In spring crops, cloves are arranged chaotically, differ in size, and there are more of them in number (from 8 to 20 pieces).
In winter varieties, the teeth are even, the stumps are thicker and denser, and in the structure of the bulb, the trunk is located in the center, unlike spring species.
Only winter garlic shoots, from spring - only the Gulliver variety.
Sandy loamy soils are chosen for planting winter varieties, for spring varieties, loamy and not very heavy soil is suitable.
High frost resistance is typical for winter varieties. Such garlic withstands very low temperatures.

A significant difference between garlic species lies in the way they are planted. by all known ways(cloves, bulblets, single-tooth bulbs) only winter varieties can be sown. Spring garlic, except for the Gulliver variety, is grown exclusively with cloves, since the species does not shoot.

Varieties of winter garlic for planting

Variety name	Degree of ripeness	Qualitative characteristics	Yield degree	Main advantages
"Alkor"	mid-season	Bulbs are dense, rounded. Color is pink-purple. Arrows. The weight of the bulbs is 13–36 g.	high yielding	Resistant to frost, lesions of the yellow dwarf virus. Excellent keeping quality.
"Belorussian"	early ripe	Dense bulbs, large, whitish-violet scales. The weight of vegetables is 56–78 g.	medium-yielding	Excellent winter hardiness. Slightly susceptible to bacterial rot.
"Gribovsky Jubilee"	mid-season	Flat-round bulbs, the shape is elongated upwards, the scales are painted in a purple hue. Arrows. The keeping quality is average. The weight of the bulbs is from 24 to 44 g.	high yielding	Resistant to cold, drought, diseases.
"Lyubasha"	mid-season	A flat-round bulb with white scales and purple streaks. Very large. The lightness is good.	high yielding	Strongly resistant to frost, fusarium, drought.
"Sail"	mid-season	Arrows. The bulbs are large, flat-round, elongated upwards. The mass of the bulbs is from 30 to 47 g. It is well stored.	high yielding	Winter-hardy, slightly affected by bacterial rot, stem nematode, resistant to downy mildew.
"Sofievsky"	mid-season	Large bulbs, medium purple scales, flat round shape. Weight from 80 to 130 g. Arrows. It is used only fresh.	high yielding	Resistant to frost, nematode. Excellent keeping quality.
"Saved"	mid-season	Round-oval bulbs with scales gray color. By weight it reaches 80 - 100 g. Arrows.	high yielding	High resistance to severe frosts, nematode, Fusarium. Well kept.

All winter varieties often have a sharp taste.

Landing time

In autumn, it is important to have time to plant garlic before hard frosts. At the same time, do not make a mistake with the weather conditions so that there is no temporary thaw. Garlic should not germinate and should not freeze. In the Moscow region, most often, work begins from the end of September - mid-October, about 35-45 days before severe frosts. Ideally the first week of October. The soil is dug up 2 weeks before planting. Planting continues until November, weather permitting.

It gets colder in the Urals earlier, it is best to start planting from mid-September - in October. It is important that the soil warms up by at least +6 degrees. In Siberian conditions, winter is usually early, snow may already fall in September, therefore, focusing on weather forecasts, they start planting garlic even from the end of August (with predicted early cold weather without a significant thaw) or from the beginning - mid-September in a milder climate.

Landing

Preparing garden tools

To sow winter garlic with high quality, you need to use a number of tools. These include:

bayonet shovel or pitchfork - for digging the soil;
hand rake, chopper - to create holes, further care for crops;
gloves;
containers for preparing teeth.

Winter varieties are not watered after planting, dried bulbs are also planted, so a watering can is not required. When crops are planted in industrial scale it is recommended to use manual or machine garlic planters, equipment for sizing cloves, a tractor with a nozzle - a pitchfork for digging plots.

Soil preparation

The soil for winter garlic is selected sandy, with good moisture and air permeability. The beds are placed on flat areas without closely spaced ground water. The lowlands are unsuitable, since in cold weather there may be moisture stagnation, due to which the roots can rot.

The best place for winter garlic is the beds located close to the fence on the south side of the site. Soil acidity should be neutral. The place for crops is chosen well-lit. It is necessary to clean the soil, dig, and fertilize 3 or 4 weeks before the planting procedure.

The beds are also spudded in advance so that the soil settles a little. This is necessary so that the bulbs do not freeze during sowing, do not germinate ahead of time.

After digging, fertilizers are applied (per 1 sq. M.):

Add to loamy soil dolomite flour(1 cup), nitrophoska (1 tablespoon), superphosphates (1 tablespoon). Or they make compost (1 bucket), sprinkle with ash (1.5 cups).
For sandy and clay soils apart from minerals and organic fertilizers above, add a bucket of peat.

Fresh manure is not used so that the garlic does not hurt, is not affected by pests. Ready ridges are disinfected with a solution before planting blue vitriol, dissolving 50 g of the substance in a bucket of water. The wetted soil is covered with a film, left until the planting procedure.

How to prepare planting material

Garlic is being prepared for planting. The teeth are sorted out, poor-quality, damaged, dried up, small are put aside. Material suitable for sowing must be pre-treated. It is disinfected as a prophylaxis against damage by rot, mold, spotting in solution:

table salt (1 large spoon per 2 liters of water) for 3 minutes, and then in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per bucket of water) for 3 minutes;
settled for half an hour with ash (0.4 kg of substance per 2 l hot water) for about 2 hours;
drug (according to the instructions) "Fistosporin-M";

Be sure to dry the garlic before planting.

The process itself

It is important to plant teeth correctly in order to next year the garlic grew large.

After which crops to plant

You can not sow after carrots, beets, radishes, turnips and other root crops. At the place of cultivation of onions and garlic, vegetables are re-planted only after 3 years.

To what depth

The depth of embedding of the teeth should be approximately 8–10 cm in a not very cold climate, in the northern regions - from 13 to 20 cm. Crops of bulbs are deepened by 3 cm. Coarse-grained sand or ash is poured at the bottom of the furrows with a layer of up to 3 cm to protect crops from decay.

It is necessary to plant garlic cloves bottoms down. It is impossible to allow compaction of the soil under them, so as not to impede the growth and development of the root system. From dense soil, teeth can be pushed to the surface in winter, as a result, they are threatened with freezing.

Landing pattern

Rows are made for cloves in the beds, retreating 18–25 cm, but no more. The distance between seedlings depends on their size. Between small teeth make indents of 14-16 cm, between large - 19-22 cm.

Row spacing when planting with bulbs should be approximately 17 cm. Between seedlings, approximately 3 cm are left, a distance of 10 cm is recommended for very large garlic. For 1 sq. meter beds, most often, use 30 bulbs.

Seedling care

After sowing, it is enough to sprinkle the beds with baked ash (1 cup per 1 square meter). Watering is not immediately needed, usually abundant autumn rainfall is enough. In arid climates, irrigation can be done once a month, using a bucket of water per 1 sq. meter.

Before severe frosts, plantings are mulched, for example, with a mixture of sawdust and peat 2 cm thick. In snowless weather in severe frosts, the beds are covered with sheets of roofing material or film. Protective coatings it is important to remove with the onset of spring thaw.

The main care for garlic is regular loosening to a depth of 3 or 4 cm, followed by mulching with a wet layer of peat. Watering is carried out weekly, bringing in a bucket of water per 1 sq. landing meter.

In the spring, you can make a starting top dressing, subject to poor foliage growth. I use nitrogen-containing fertilizers, adding a solution of urea (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water) or bird droppings (1 cup). The feeding rate is 3 liters of the finished solution per 1 sq. landing meter. The procedure is repeated if necessary only after 2 weeks.

For high productivity from most crops, it is recommended to remove arrows, leaving only those that are necessary for harvesting. planting material- a bulb.

Possible problems and difficulties

As a result of unaccounted for crop rotation, you can get a small crop, damage to crops by fungi, weak sprouts in the beds.

Using fresh manure when cultivating the soil for planting, they later face damage to garlic by mold, rot, and pests. Teeth without disinfection in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulphate may not germinate, freeze, and sprout damaged diseases.

Too deep planting leads to the loss of seedlings. The growth of the root system is hindered by well-packed soil under the teeth. Wet seed does not germinate, it freezes or rots.

Poorly mulched plantings will not withstand extreme cold. And those planted out of time can germinate ahead of time, which is fraught with loss of crops during frosts.

Typical errors

Taking into account the difficulties faced by inexperienced vegetable growers, it is worth noting the mistakes that should be avoided when sowing winter varieties of garlic:

You can not plant garlic in one place for several years in a row, after harvesting onions, beets, carrots, turnips, radishes, radishes.
It is not necessary to fertilize for the winter with nitrogen fertilizers.
It is necessary to adhere to the planting dates, taking into account the climate in different regions.
It is necessary to choose the right landing depth. Its optimal value is approximately 8–10 cm for teeth. The colder, the more they make a seal. For bulbs - 3 cm.
You can not divide the garlic heads into teeth in advance, this is done the day before the procedure. At the same time, seedlings are carefully selected, checked so that the husk does not come off, they are disinfected, dried well before sowing.

In addition to the above, we must not forget with the onset of spring and the further care of the seedlings.

When growing winter garlic to obtain early vitamin greens, it is important to adhere to planting dates, climatic features in the regions, take into account the agricultural technology procedure, choose good varieties only then can a high-quality crop be harvested.

Planting garlic before winter, when and how to do it right? Differences between winter and spring garlic. Don't miss out on planting before winter. How to define them? The best predecessors and the choice of planting material. Soil preparation and planting technology. Proper Care for garlic after autumn planting. And also, how to avoid mistakes when planting garlic in the fall. And finally: it is better to see once - a useful video from experts. And now everything is in order.

Garlic is usually divided into spring and winter. Spring is planted in spring, winter - in autumn before winter. How to distinguish winter garlic from spring garlic by external signs:

Differences	Winter garlic	Spring garlic
Comparison features winter and spring garlic
Shooting	There are arrows. They need to be removed, leaving a few for reproduction, as they take away a lot of nutrients.	Missing. The exception is the variety Gulliver.
Number of teeth	No more than 8-10 and they are large	Many, up to 30 pieces, different in size, small in the center
The location of the teeth	Located around the dry residue of the arrow, stem	Randomly, in several rows. Smallest in the center
root system	Powerful, spring garlic sprouts quickly, as the roots were formed in the fall.	It takes about 10 days to root. Only then do the cloves grow, leaves appear.
Landing dates	End of September-mid October. 2-3 weeks before frost	Early spring, the last decade of March - the beginning of April.
Harvesting	July August.	Late August, September.
Frost resistance	When planting to a depth of 5–6 cm, they can withstand up to -22 ° C.	Negative temperatures are poorly tolerated, up to + 3 ° С
keeping quality	It is stored poorly, no more than 4-5 months, dries quickly. Preferably store at +2°С-+4°С	It is stored for a long time, due to the high density of cloves. Even with room temperature 6-12 months or more.

The main differences between winter garlic and spring garlic:

winter is more productive than spring garlic;
matures faster in August;
heads are much larger than spring ones;
shoots, that is, gives its planting material;
not afraid of frost;
more resistant to diseases and pests.

Winter crop ripens 2–3 weeks earlier than spring crop because it has time to take root since autumn. It can grow even at -5°C. And therefore, soon after the snow melts, it already gives the first sprouts.

Planting dates for garlic before winter

The question of the timing of planting garlic arises among gardeners quite often. The fact is that the planting time greatly affects the wintering and the further harvest of this crop.

If planted very early, the garlic can germinate, and the seedlings die from winter frosts. If, on the contrary, the planting is late, then the teeth do not have time to take root and do not tolerate the winter well. According to reviews experienced gardeners, still worse too early boarding so don't be in a hurry.

The timing of the autumn planting of garlic in the fall primarily depends on climate zone cultivation and weather conditions at a given time.

Favorable landing time middle lane starts approximately from mid-September and ends in mid-October. Soil temperature can be taken into account to determine planting time. At a temperature of +6…+8 0 C, the root system is formed, but there is no danger of seedlings.

If there is a delay in planting, it can be carried out if the temperature does not drop below +3 ... +6 0 C. The bed after planting will need to be mulched.

What crop is best for planting garlic?

The best predecessors for garlic are considered: cucumbers, zucchini, pumpkin, legumes. Garlic can also be planted after early cabbage. During cultivation, these crops are not affected by the same diseases and are well fertilized, which is important for garlic. And legumes themselves serve as a source of nitrogen.

Bad predecessors- potatoes, onions, carrots, beets.

After what green manure can you plant garlic

for the prevention of garlic diseases, it is very important to plant it after the recommended predecessors;
for the same reasons, one should not neglect the processing of planting material;
preparation of beds for garlic must be done in advance so that the earth settles a little;

Planting material preparation, separation and dressing of teeth, do immediately before planting.
Many novice gardeners divide the heads into teeth in advance. This is mistake. Separation is preferably done shortly before planting (for example, in the evening of the previous day). In this case, each clove must be carefully examined for signs of rot and various damage. All diseased, damaged, as well as small teeth should be immediately discarded. Do not take cloves from bulbs consisting of only 2-3 cloves (a sign of degeneration).

Useful video: planting garlic before winter

October is the time when not only gardening ends, but also the time for preparing a summer cottage for planting winter crops. The future harvest will depend on the quality of the work carried out. How to plant garlic before winter, what kind of variety to choose, how to sow, what depth of the hole is preferable? Planting garlic for the winter has been practiced for a very long time. This is facilitated by the climate, soil properties. Proper planting of garlic (“stone onion”) will ensure a good harvest at the beginning of next summer, will make it possible to have a fragrant and vigorous vegetable on the tables.

When to plant garlic before winter

The time chosen for planting a winter vegetable is very important. The productivity of the crop depends entirely on it. Planting garlic in the fall before winter begins in mid-September - in the first ten days of October, in more southern latitudes - in November. It is necessary to plant a crop before the first frost, until frost sets in. However, it is not worth starting work very early, because this can lead to freezing of the plant, which will begin to grow before the cold weather.

Favorable days according to the lunar calendar in 2019

Much at dacha work based on weather conditions. However, any gardener knows perfectly well how the lunar calendar affects the growth of plants and their yield. The moon also matters when growing plants: no work can be done during the new moon or full moon, everything is done when it is waning. Before planting winter garlic, you need to refer to the calendar. In the current season, the favorable time for work is as follows:

in October: 5th, 6th, 10th, 11th, 20th, 22nd, 25th, 26th;
in November: 1. 2, 7, 8, 16, 19 - 22, 29 numbers.

Then it is better to plant

When deciding on a site for planting a crop, it is important to pay attention, after which it will grow better. The maximum yield will be after annual vegetables: zucchini, pumpkins, peppers, cucumbers, eggplants, berries and cereals. This is explained by the fact that all the listed crops are selected early and the land under them has time to recover. Planting garlic next to shrubs, fruit trees is not worth it. On the site after this vegetable, as well as after the onion, nothing can be grown over the next three years.

How to choose a landing site

How to plant garlic before winter, what place to choose for the beds? Vegetable is a very capricious culture. Therefore landing winter garlic should be done in the right place. He loves light fertile, moisture- and water-permeable soil, sandy loamy soil. Soils that are acidic will not work. The area at home or in the country where garlic will be grown must meet the following requirements:

the soil is well fertilized;
an elevated place, without stagnant water;
good lighting.

Some gardeners do high beds if the soil is very wet, but this is not very useful for garlic. Preference is given to areas:

where there is a lot of snow;
no access to animals;
where the ice crust is formed.

The best option is a plot near the fence, but with north side. In winters with little snow, the fence will keep the snow and prevent the plant from freezing. The shadow from the fence will keep the crust of ice.

Site illumination

Before planting a "stone bow", you must choose a well-lit place. The vegetable is a light-loving crop, so it is necessary to break the bed in sunny places. Planting a plant near trees, buildings will be wrong. The bed is located in a bright place, protected from the north wind. A well-lit area will help the garlic take root and give a high yield.

No accumulation of moisture

Humidity is the enemy of garlic. The need to choose a non-damp or elevated place is dictated by the fact that this culture is a very demanding plant with a delicate root system. If the earth is very wet, then the roots of the plant will begin to rot, hurt, and pests will appear. In addition, very wet ground can provoke the growth of the ground mass, and not the crop bulb.

Formation of an ice crust on the ground

An ice crust appears on the soil at certain times of the year. If the right place was found in the garden, then you can safely plant a crop on it. A crust of ice will keep the ground at a constant temperature during the winter cold. If there is no such area, you can save the “stone bow” from freezing with a covering material. Such materials protect the crop from frost, prevent possible waterlogging of the earth.

snow place

Snow is very important for many winter crops. It is especially needed for garlic. Without enough snow, the plant will simply freeze - all autumn work will be destroyed. Therefore, when choosing a place, preference should be given to areas near fences and fences. They will hold back the snow mass. If there is no suitable area, then it is recommended to install a special fence.

Soil for winter garlic

Preparing the soil for planting garlic should begin about two to three weeks before planting. The soil must be non-acidic before planting crops, in place of which garlic will grow, fertilized with manure. This is explained by the fact that freshly manured soil negatively affects the quality of the vegetable: when it is damaged by pests, it begins to hurt. If the soil requires additional fertilizer, this should be done no later than 2 to 3 weeks before the start of work.

To begin, loosen the soil. Digging depth: with a shovel bayonet, the height of the bed is approximately 20 cm. The following amount of fertilizer is required per m²:

5-6 kg of humus, can be replaced with peat (10 kg);
30 g of superphosphate;
20 g of potassium salt;
2 glasses wood ash;
the site should be watered with copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water, 1% solution). This will tamp the ground down a bit. In light soil, the clove will sink deep, in heavy soil it will eventually be at the top and freeze in winter.

Seed preparation

Spring garlic differs from winter garlic in that the latter reproduce in two ways: bulbs and cloves. The difference is very noticeable. Bulbs are able to grow a bulb in two years, but cloves cope with this task in a season. Therefore, they are more often used when growing garlic at home. An onion with one clove grows from the bulbs. It is often sold as a seed, which gives real garlic from full-fledged cloves. If the planting material is non-shooting varieties, you need to use only the cloves of the outer tier.

good harvest only possible with proper preparation. seed. Damaged, very large or small teeth are thrown out, with a broken shell. Next, you should disassemble the heads and those that are suitable for planting, treat with brine (3 tablespoons of salt per 5 liters of water) or ash liquor (400 g of ash per 2 liters of water, boil for 30 minutes and cool). Disinfect all teeth in the solution for 2 hours.

Planting garlic before winter

After the seeds and plot are ready for sowing, it's time to proceed to the main stage. To comply with the technology, it is important to adhere to the sequence of work. She is as follows:

Planting technology begins with the formation of furrows. Depth: 15-20 cm, step: 20-25 cm.
Drainage is poured at the bottom of the furrow (maybe ordinary sand) about 3 cm high. This is necessary to drain excess moisture and preserve the roots.
The depth of the holes should not be made very large. The teeth are planted at a distance of 15 cm, if the fine material is 7 cm.

The teeth are embedded to a depth of 3 cm, step - 2 cm in a row, between rows - 10 cm. You do not need to push the teeth in hard, otherwise the roots will not form well. They root well if the soil below them is moderately soft.
After planting, the soil does not need to be watered, just mulch the soil with peat chips. Height - up to 3 cm. This is necessary to protect against cold in case of soil freezing.

Care after landing

If you plant garlic in the fall, then in the spring it will not cause many worries. By itself, the vegetable perfectly tolerates the cold. By the onset of cold weather, a rooted plant winter period endure very well. In the spring, so that the seedlings germinate faster, the shelter and part of the mulch are removed. At the end of June, the plant shoots arrows. They break out at a height of 10 cm. If this is not done, the bulb will be small. When the first greenery appears, the soil is fertilized: urea is added, a solution bird droppings or cow.

A month later, the following top dressing is done: a bucket of water and 200 g of ash. Watering is moderate: a liter of solution for several rows. When there is active growth, the plant is watered a lot, but in rainy weather this should not be done - the roots can get sick and rot. After watering, the bed is loosened, if necessary, sprinkle the ground. As soon as the seedlings began to grow, they are watered less often.

The best varieties of winter garlic for the Moscow region

Garlic enjoys well-deserved fame, it is often used to prevent diseases. With careful care, it will become an excellent seed material that is resistant to long-term storage. In the Moscow region, the most popular varieties are: Komsomolets, Petrovsky, Lyubasha, Gribovsky Jubilee, Violet Kharkov.

Komsomolets

Variety "Komsomolets" is spring and winter. It perfectly tolerates cold and heat. The bulb is medium in size, weight reaches 50 g. The leaf has a light wax coating, their height is up to 40 cm, 5-7 pieces in one bunch. The heads have a purple hue, have a sharp taste. Lands on a bright and spacious place. The soil is sandy and loamy. Propagated by teeth or bulbs.

Petrovsky

Variety "Petrovsky" is considered winter. The culture is universal, it is often used as a seasoning for dishes. This is an excellent remedy for the treatment of colds. Loves while growing good watering, unpretentious in care. The weight of the bulb is within 60-70 g. The soil begins to be prepared already at the end of August. With a yield, 5-7 cloves grow in the head.

Lyubasha

Variety "Lyubasha" is considered the most popular. It grows very large: a head of garlic reaches 200 g, by the number of cloves - from 4 to 7. Propagated by cloves and bulbs. The shelf life is up to one year. The arrows grow up to 1.5 m. The leaves are dark green in color and have a slight waxy coating. Garlic tolerates wintering well. During the growth period loves top dressing.

Variety "Gribovsky" is gaining popularity in household as a very fruitful species (for 1 sq.m. up to 2 kg of garlic). The leaves reach a height of 70 cm. The sharp taste of the vegetable is obtained due to the abundance essential oils in its composition. This property of the plant helps to cope with headaches, joint problems, increases appetite, strengthens the immune system. The weight is not very large, up to 50 g. Up to 6 cloves grow in the head of garlic.

Purple Kharkiv

Variety "Purple Kharkiv" has not a very large weight, up to 60 g. It is popular due to its high yield: about 11 tons can be harvested from 1 hectare, from 1 weave to 100 kg. Feature of a grade in high resistance to diseases. The head has a purple hue, slightly flattened, the number of cloves is up to 6. Garlic tolerates wintering well, loves top dressing during the growth period.

Video

If you haven't planted garlic this fall yet, now is the time to do so. Moreover, garlic can be planted before winter, both winter and spring - it will grow larger and ripen earlier than planted in spring. Galina Kizima shares the secrets of planting garlic.

Garlic is winter, which is planted before winter, and it is spring, which is planted in spring. The difference between winter garlic and spring garlic lies in the fact that winter garlic has a future flower arrow in the tooth, which is clearly visible on the cross section of the tooth in the form of a darker circle. Spring garlic does not shoot. It reproduces only by teeth.

Outwardly, they are easy to distinguish: spring has two rows of small teeth, and winter - one row, usually of 4-6 large teeth. Winter garlic, respectively, gives a flower arrow in the middle of summer, but the seeds ripen only in the southern regions. But at the end of the arrow at the end of July, small onion bulbs are formed, which are used to propagate garlic along with cloves.

Spring garlic is propagated only with cloves, since it does not produce seeds or bulbs. Spring garlic has one advantage over winter garlic: it is well stored in the apartment in winter.

Both spring and winter garlic work well only in fertile soil, moisture and breathable, with an alkaline pH above 7. In addition, they need a sunny location, although they can tolerate a little shading.

Do not try to grow garlic on clays, soils poor in organic matter, and also on acidic soils, in the shade, on too wet lands.

Garlic is a cold-resistant plant, it is not afraid of frost, it sprouts early in the spring, because after planting the root system of garlic has time to grow well in the fall.

Winter garlic is propagated vegetatively, planted in open ground with cloves in the fall. As a rule, gardeners use their own planting material, but sometimes they buy garlic for planting in stores or from individuals and, seduced by a beautiful appearance heads of garlic, buy southern garlic. After planting, it sprouts almost immediately, winters poorly and often rots in the soil during winter thaws or during prolonged autumn rainy weather. In my experience, southern and imported varieties of garlic are unsuitable for growing in the Northwest region.

If the cloves are without traces of disease, they can be planted immediately. If there is any doubt about diseases, then soak the cloves before planting for half an hour in a solution of the drug "Maxim" or "Fitosporin" to prevent rot diseases.

Garlic in the North-West region is planted simultaneously with tulips, in late September - early October to a depth of about 8 cm. late landings(end of October in the North-West region), the root system does not have time to grow, and garlic sticks out of the ground during the early onset of frost. But even in this case, if in the spring you again deepen it into the soil by about 5 cm, it will yield a crop, but somewhat later than usual.

I have been planting garlic a little differently for many years. I prepare the bed around the middle of August, two weeks before planting. I bring in compost (bucket) or peat mixed with sand and ash (a bucket of peat, a third of a bucket of sand, a liter can of ash) for each meter of plantings. I lightly dig a Fokin flat cutter to a depth of no more than 7-8 cm. On the eve of planting, I water it well with Fitosporin solution to disinfect the soil. I don't use potassium permanganate.

Before planting, which I spend on August 25-27, I make holes 12-15 cm deep with a special peg. If you want to get larger teeth, mark up 15x15 cm and even 20x20 cm. But I find that large teeth are inconvenient when used and I prefer to grow garlic, in which the teeth are medium in size, so I mark up according to the 10x pattern 10 cm

In each hole I pour a tablespoon of large river sand, I lower one large granule of AVA fertilizer, then I lower a large clove of garlic and again pour a tablespoon of sand into the hole. After that, I close up the plantings with soil. The sand introduced into the wells creates a microdrainage around the tooth, and then around the growing head of garlic, therefore, it saves it from waterlogging.

From such a great depth, garlic does not sprout in autumn (with the exception of imported or southern varieties). But even if it rises, do not worry, it will winter well. Garlic, planted in August, has time to build up a good root system and rises early in spring. Plants stand as a powerful wall, strong, green and easily cope with any weather conditions. They do not need any feeding all season. Such garlic ripens a month earlier than the one that was planted in September-October.

Growing winter garlic

When a flower arrow appears on garlic planted in any way, it should immediately be broken out. No twisting and tying of the tops does not get rid of the arrow, but it harms the plant, because the leaves stop working normally. In addition, an infection enters the resulting tissue damage and ruptures, which can lead to garlic disease.

One or two of the strongest plants should be left with an arrow in order for the bulbs to grow. As soon as the cover on the flower arrow bursts, the plant must be taken out of the ground along with the head, shake off the soil from the roots and hang it upside down to dry. Then the bulbs can be removed. They will be required to improve their planting material.

Growing garlic from bulbs

Over time, garlic degenerates and needs to be renewed. For this summer, you can leave a few big shooters garlic, seeds from ripe bulbs in the fall we sow in the ground. The next year, the heads will grow into one clove. We plant them before winter, and in the summer we get a full harvest.

After lower leaves the garlic turned yellow, it can be dug up, better with a pitchfork, not a shovel. The heads should be shaken off the soil and, having tied it in loose bundles, hung in the attic or in the attic to dry. When nutrients from the leaves will completely go into the head, the leaves will dry.

If at cleaning garlic, if you find mold or rot on it, or something else suspicious, then clean the heads of excess scales. Immediately cut off the tops and roots, dip the heads for half an hour in the Fitosporin solution and only then dry them, laying them out in a single layer in the attic.

You can not dry onions, garlic or royal hazel grouse along with tulips, because due to the pungent smell of the bulbs, the tulips will not form a flower bud, and they will not bloom next year.

How to store garlic at home

Plants need to be cut off the roots, remove excess husks, weave a braid and hang it in the kitchen for winter storage. You can cut off the dried tops, leave stumps 2-3 cm high, hold the bottom of each head over a candle flame to lightly set it on fire. This will protect the head from premature moisture loss. Then spread the dried garlic over three-liter jars, tie up the hole with a cloth and put it stored on the windowsills. Do not store garlic in the refrigerator - it usually spoils faster.

Sometimes it is recommended to store garlic disassembled into individual cloves in jars, sprinkling it with salt. This method does not give anything but an extra waste of salt, because the salt takes all the moisture from the teeth, and they quickly dry out and wrinkle.

Growing spring garlic

Planting spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ripe for planting. Should not be planted in waterlogged soil - cloves can rot in wet and cold ground. So there is no need to hurry, although garlic is cold-resistant, and it can be planted in the North-West as early as the end of April.

Care for spring garlic is the same as for winter garlic. Pests and diseases they have in common with onions.

Dig up spring garlic later than winter, closer to autumn. But don't leave it in the soil for too long. As soon as the lower leaves begin to turn yellow and dry out, immediately dig up, because the head can crumble into individual teeth in the soil.

You can store spring garlic right on top of a kitchen shelf or cabinet.

I, unlike the generally accepted planting of spring garlic in the spring, just plant it in the fall at the same time as tulips. Then his teeth will be almost the same size as that of the winter, and, as expected, in two rows.

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Comment on the article "How to plant garlic before winter? Planting garlic: winter and spring"

Planting winter garlic in October?. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs Today I planted both onions and garlic. We do not cover anything for the winter, it winters well, germination is also good. Dacha near Pereslavl.

Spring garlic. Planting garlic. Winter - in August. Planting garlic. Those who know, tell me, is it possible to plant garlic before winter or is it too early? Winter - in August When to harvest garlic: leaves turn yellow and bulbs ripen Spring garlic: planting ...

Planting garlic. Those who know, tell me, is it possible to plant garlic before winter or is it too early? From which bed is intended for cabbage, and which one for cucumbers, for example, autumn fertilization and winter planting of onions and garlic will depend.

Is it time to plant winter garlic? On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. We also plant the dacha and dacha plots of Yarovaya, it is better stored. If winter is maximum until January-February So, with our winters recent times and late autumn thaws of November, it grows poorly ...

Discussion

For several years in a row, we plant winter garlic very late, in almost frozen ground, even later than October 14th. and grows up gorgeous!
BUT we cover it - with leaves fruit trees from the garden, and from above so that they do not scatter - with branches. We take it all off in the spring. And garlic is growing with a bang.
We also plant spring, it is stored better.
If the winter is maximum until January-February - we eat it, we use it, and then it becomes lethargic, I don’t like it very much ((
then we are just starting to use spring garlic from February until the new winter harvest ...
Year-round your garlic.

My grandmother planted all her life up to the Intercession, i.e. before the first snow. "Cover the earth with a snowball, and cover me with a groom." Cover of October 14th.

I’m thinking of planting a spring crop then, where can I buy one? Has anyone seen it for sale? Spring garlic: planting, cultivation and storage. Buy in the same place where you always buy, plant on April 20, it seems to me, it will go for salting.

I planted garlic, or rather, grumbling, household members - and I will plant tulips as it turns out. Is it written on the package to store + 20? and another question - if you plant it in a pot right now and water it ...

Discussion

Tulips with bulbs in pots? or just uncut bulbs at the ends of the stems pulled out of the ground?

let the buds bloom and the stems dry.
dig out. dried cut off. dry. inspect the onions, throw out the bad ones. wrap in newspaper and put in a cool place.
get it in the fall. examine the bulbs. planted in the ground in a box for bulbs to a depth of two bulbs.
wait for spring.

How do you store garlic? Well, it doesn't work. And it seems that the garlic is correct - 4 cloves, and I tried different things. Still sells normal garlic! And even Chinese!

Discussion

It is important to dig it out during it, without damaging the stem and root. I dry the harvest for bundles in the wind and sun for almost a week, dragging it into the house at night. When the tops fade, I weave beautiful braids from it, and sometimes wreaths and hang this beauty in log house where it is dry, cool and drafty.
Garlic retains juiciness and freshness for two years.

I don't cut off upper part, land, then weave braids. Now the garlic in this spit is not dry, vigorous.

When to remove the garlic. Storage of garlic: winter and spring. Last in line is the garlic. After him, we will return the cucumber here again, throwing him organic matter.

How to plant garlic before winter? Planting garlic: winter and spring. Garlic: when to dig up and plant a new one. The traditional planting of spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only cloves are planted in early spring, as soon as the soil is ready.

Planting garlic. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Those who know, tell me, is it possible to plant garlic before winter or is it too early? early, at the end of September - beginning of October they plant, but in general they look at the weather, we have one year in a warm autumn, 5 centimeters crawled out ...

Spring garlic. - get-togethers. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and country plots: purchase, landscaping, planting trees and shrubs Chinese I Planting garlic. Winter - in August. When to harvest garlic: leaves turn yellow and bulbs ripen. Tell me please!

Hybrid garlic. On the beds. Dacha, garden and vegetable garden. Dacha and dacha plots: purchase We bought exotics in the fall - hybrid garlic - it has large cloves, and the garlic head is not ...

Discussion

Tell me please! Surug bought garlic, it’s just gigantic compared to the usual one, when buying it, he realized that it was a hybrid of garlic with something, like some kind of American ... I say, can you eat it? add tea in winter, plant roofing felts for the winter. What should I do with it, with this garlic? :)

18.08.2012 22:27:22, illjuzija27

Does it have leaves like a tulip? Are they healthy?
We, too, are already beginning to bloom, but we have been eating it for a long, long time. As the snow melted, it began to eat - delicious, juicy, tender ..

Hybrid garlic. Spring garlic: planting, cultivation and storage. spring I recommend planting spring garlic not in spring, but in autumn, at the same time as planting tulips and hyacinths. The traditional planting of spring garlic is no different from planting winter garlic, only ...

Garlic-lemon tincture. Seasonal issues .. Child from 3 to 7. Education, nutrition, daily routine, visiting kindergarten and relationships with caregivers, illnesses and...

Garlic (lat. Allium sativum) is perennial herbaceous plant, a species of the genus Onion of the family Amaryllis subfamily Onion. it vegetable crop has been popular with many peoples of the world for six thousand years - garlic is in demand both in cooking and in medicine. Edible are not only the bulbs of garlic, but also the leaves, arrows and flower stalks of young plants. The homeland of the plant is Central Asia, and it was introduced into the culture in the mountainous regions of Afghanistan, Iran, Pakistan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan. Scientists suggested that garlic originated from a long-pointed onion, which is common in the mountain gorges of Turkmenistan and the Tien Shan, and further research confirmed this conjecture - garlic is indeed genetically indistinguishable from this type of onion, therefore, with a high degree We can say with certainty that garlic is a type of onion. It is grown in both spring and winter ways. In this article, we will tell you how to properly plant winter varieties of garlic.

When to plant garlic before winter

Dates of planting garlic in the fall of 2018

When to plant winter garlic? Winter garlic is grown from autumn. The previous crop must be removed from the site where you plan to sow winter garlic, no later than before the end of July. Planting garlic in the ground is carried out 35-45 days before frost. Before the onset of winter and freezing of the soil, garlic has time to develop a root system 10-12 cm long, but the green shoots will no longer appear. The optimal time for planting garlic is from September 20 to mid-October. However, if you decide to grow garlic from bulbs, and not from cloves, then you can sow them in April.

If you believe lunar calendar, then the most favorable days for planting garlic in 2018 are September 4, 5, 12-15, as well as 11, 12 and 13 October. Who did not have time on these dates, there are still 8, 11 and 16 November.

When Not to Plant Garlic

Planted garlic too early will sprout, which should not be allowed categorically, and garlic planted too late will not have time to take root and freeze, therefore it is so important to observe the planting dates of winter varieties verified by many years of experience.

In the photo: Winter garlic dug in spring

After which crop to plant garlic

Before you determine the site for winter garlic, you need to know after which you can plant garlic, that is, which crops can precede garlic, and after which it will not grow. Garlic will grow best after annual vegetables with a short growing season - cucumbers, peppers, eggplants, pumpkins, zucchini, cereals or berry bushes. It is not recommended to plant garlic in the area where root crops grew - their crop is harvested late, and the soil depleted by root crops is unlikely to have time to recover. Can you plant garlic after garlic? Absolutely not. Just like after the bow. The principle of fruit change suggests that you will be able to grow garlic in the place where it grew in the current year no earlier than in three to four years.

Garlic before planting - preparation

Unlike spring garlic, which reproduces only by cloves, winter garlic reproduces by both cloves and bulbs. In order to grow a full-fledged bulb from a bulb, it will take two years, and from a clove you can get a large onion the next year after planting. Before planting garlic in the fall, the seed is sorted out, discarding damaged, small and diseased teeth, as well as those in which the shell is broken, then high-quality teeth are disinfected for 2 hours in ash liquor - a solution of 400 g of ash in two liters of water, boiled in for half an hour and then chilled. Instead of ash alkali for disinfecting teeth, you can use a two-minute treatment of the seed in saline solution (3 tablespoons per 5 liters of water) followed by disinfection for a minute in a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water).

soil for garlic

Where to plant garlic? Garlic is photophilous, so grow it under the sun in sandy, non-acidic soil manured for the previous crop - fresh manure in the soil for garlic leads to the fact that it is more often affected by diseases and pests. If there is a need to fertilize the soil after the previous crop, do it no later than one and a half to two weeks before planting garlic: dig the soil onto a shovel bayonet, adding 5-6 kg of humus per m², as well as 30 g of superphosphate and 20 g of potassium salt, then pour the area with a solution of copper sulfate (1 teaspoon per 10 liters of water). Before planting, cover the bed with foil.

Pictured: Heads of garlic

How to plant garlic before winter

On the site prepared for planting, furrows are made with a depth of 15-20 cm at a distance of 20-25 cm from each other, coarse-grained sand is poured into the bottom of the grooves with a layer of 1.5-3 cm in order to prevent contact of the teeth with the soil and protect them from decay . The distance between large teeth should be 12-15 cm, and between those that are smaller - 8-10 cm. After planting the teeth in the soil, the site must be mulched with a two-centimeter layer of dry peat or sawdust mixed with the ground. If the winter is snowless, you will have to cover the crops with roofing material or polyethylene, but as soon as the snow starts, remove the film so that the snow falls on the site.

If you use bulbs as seed, they are sown to a depth of no more than 3 cm at a distance of 2 cm from each other with a distance between the grooves of 10 cm. which need to be dug up, dried and planted again in the ground, so that next year they give a full-fledged bulb.

In the photo: Winter garlic grows

Caring for garlic after planting in the fall

Planting and caring for garlic in the open field will not cause you any trouble. Winter garlic is a culture with increased cold resistance, and if only it has time to build up the root system by winter, it will endure the winter perfectly, especially if you mulch the area and cover it with roofing material. In the spring, the shelter is removed from the site and 2 cm of mulch is removed to make it easier for seedlings to break through the earth's thickness. At the end of June, the garlic begins to throw arrows, which must be broken out before they reach a height of 10 cm, otherwise the bulb will end up too small. As soon as the first greens appear, apply to the soil nitrogen fertilizers- urea, mullein or a solution of bird droppings. The next top dressing - a solution of 200 g of ash in a bucket of water - apply in June or July. Garlic is best fed with organic fertilizers. Watering garlic in the phase of active growth should be plentiful, in the phase of ripening of the bulbs they switch to moderate watering, and if it is rainy, then there is no need for additional moisture, since excess moisture in the second half of the growing season provokes diseases and damping of the bulbs. After watering or rain, the ground on the site is loosened, and the weeds are removed. If you have mulched the area after the shoots have hatched, you will have to fight weeds, loosen the soil and water the garlic much less often.

On the picture: harvested winter garlic

You need to harvest garlic in sunny weather, when the lower leaves turn yellow en masse - this usually happens in late July or early August, two weeks earlier than spring garlic ripens. The dug bulbs of winter garlic are dried in the sun for 4-5 days, cleaned of soil, cut off the roots and shorten the stem to 10-20 cm. Do not let the garlic overripe - its heads disintegrate from this.

Features of planting winter garlic

Planting garlic before winter in the suburbs

Actually, there is no big difference between growing winter garlic in Ukraine and in the Moscow region - it all depends on when and how winter begins. If the winter starts with a snowfall, then you don’t even have to cover the garlic with a film, but if the winter is snowless during severe frosts, the garlic will freeze without shelter. The most important thing is not to let the crops freeze in the soil, so be guided by the amount of snow: a lot of snow - do not cover the garlic, a little - cover it. In the spring, when shoots appear, all your fears will be left behind.

Planting garlic before winter in the Urals

Ural gardeners recommend not to mulch winter landings garlic, but simply cover them from frost with roofing felt or film. It is better to mulch the site in the spring, when the seedlings hatch. In addition, if garlic becomes smaller and worse over the years, the Urals recommend using bulbs rather than cloves as planting material: in the first year, bulbs will produce medium-sized single-tooth bulbs, but in the second year they will become noticeably larger. The Urals do not recommend loosening the soil, because when loosening the top row of roots is cut off, and the plant may not receive some kind of nutrient, it will weaken and, possibly, even get sick. A site mulched in the spring makes loosening an unnecessary procedure and keeps the plant healthy.

In the photo: Garlic flowering on the site

Planting garlic before winter in Siberia

AT Western Siberia planting dates for winter garlic are earlier - from mid-September to the first week of October. In addition, covering the area with crops with roofing felt before snow falls is mandatory. Otherwise, planting and caring for garlic is not much different from these processes in other areas.

Varieties of winter garlic

In order to succeed in growing winter garlic, it is very important to choose a variety adapted to your area. Varieties of garlic are arrowed and not forming arrows. Those varieties that give an arrow are usually more hardy and winter-hardy. We offer you the characteristics of several popular winter varieties in the culture, among which you can find the one that suits you.

Lyubasha- a variety of Ukrainian selection with good winter hardiness and dry resistance, perfectly stored for up to 10 months without loss of quality. The height of the stem is 90-120 cm, the number of teeth is up to 7 pieces, the average weight of one clove is 15-10 g. The bulb is white with barely noticeable purple veins.
Ukrainian white- cultivated both in spring and winter crops. The variety does not shoot, but is perfectly stored, the weight of the bulb is from 50 to 140 g, the number of cloves in the bulb is from 4 to 12 pcs.

In the photo: A good harvest of garlic

Saved- also a Ukrainian variety, bred by Lviv breeders, which has a high yield and keeping quality. The number of cloves is from 7 to 9, the average bulb weight is from 60 to 100 g. Resistant to nematodes and Fusarium.
Jubilee Gribovsky- one of the best old varieties with a very sharp taste, high yields, keeping quality and resistance to pests and diseases. The bulb weighs about 40 g and consists of 5-8 cloves.
Anniversary 07- the variety is productive, resistant to Fusarium, well stored. The bulb is white-lilac with strokes, consists of 5-8 cloves, the taste is semi-sharp.
Reliable- a fruitful variety with a semi-sharp taste, it is stored for almost a year in a warm room, the bulb, white with lilac touches, consists of 6-7 cloves.