Rhubarb: reproduction and care. Spring rhubarb - planting, growing and care

Rhubarb - useful garden plant buckwheat family, brought from South-East Asia. Cultivated rhubarb was brought to Russia by the great Russian traveler and geographer N.M. Przhevalsky. Later it turned out that wild varieties of rhubarb are found in Siberia, on Far East and in the Caucasus.

Planting a crop and caring for rhubarb does not require a significant investment of time from the gardener. And the plant is unpretentious: frost-resistant, does not require a lot of light.

How to grow rhubarb?

Rhubarb is bred in two ways:

division of the rhizome;
seedlings grown from seeds.

How to plant rhubarb by dividing the rhizome?

A developed, but low-flowering rhubarb bush (3-4 years old) with fleshy petioles is dug up in the spring. With a knife, the root is divided into parts, each should have roots and growth buds. Parts are planted at a distance of at least 20 cm from each other.

How to grow rhubarb from seeds?

Seeds are soaked in a solution of water with ash for three days and germinated in a damp cloth to sprouts 1–2 mm in size. Then they are allowed to dry slightly. Rhubarb is sown in shallow grooves of moist soil in October or April. Experienced gardeners note that rhubarb seeds have poor germination even with high-quality seed and good care.

Growing and caring for rhubarb

After the appearance of leaves, every 2 weeks they are fed with complex fertilizers, slurry or bird droppings. Young plants should be watered regularly.

Rhubarb care includes weeding, loosening the soil. In May, the flower stems appear on the plant, they constantly grow throughout the summer. If there is no need for seeds, they are cut off when they appear.

When to tear rhubarb?

The petioles of the stem are torn off (not cut!) In the second year after planting. In young plants, it is undesirable to cut off more than 3 stems at once, because the remaining stump will rot. It is also important not to break the apical bud.

Rhubarb cuttings have useful properties if they are plucked in spring or early summer. Hardened stems accumulate oxalic acid, which is harmful to the human body because it causes calcium precipitation.

Diseases and pests of rhubarb

Many gardeners appreciate rhubarb not only for its healthy taste, but also as a beautiful decorative growth. Modern landscape design includes decoration summer cottages large bright green leaves forming a rosette.

Rhubarb - leaf perennial cold-resistant and frost-resistant vegetable crop, belonging to the family of spinach plants, giving early greens that can be used both raw and boiled. Rhubarb petioles have high taste qualities, when cooked they acquire the taste of apples (after all, rhubarb contains not only oxalic, citric, but malic acids). The peculiarity of growing rhubarb is that it is not only frost-resistant, but also tolerates shading, high temperatures and even drought, so it is good to cultivate it in the conditions of the Urals. Today you will learn about rhubarb farming techniques that allow me to grow excellent harvest.

soil for rhubarb

In one place, rhubarb grows up to 12 years, so it prefers fertile, light sandy or loamy, deeply (up to 70 centimeters) cultivated, but not waterlogged soils.

When planting rhubarb under the root, compost or humus is necessarily added (5 kg / m 2 is enough) and 40 grams of a fertilizer mixture, which can be replaced with superphosphate (20 g / m 2) and potassium chloride (25 grams), everything is very thoroughly mixed with the ground.

Rhubarb planting time

Rhubarb can be propagated by seeds or division of the rhizome. The time of planting depends on the chosen method of propagation of rhubarb.

When planting seedlings, pay attention to the fact that the apical bud remains at ground level when the ground settles. If the bud is buried, it will rot and the plant will die; if the bud is high, it will dry out, and the plant will also die.

Growing seedlings is quite laborious, so I prefer to breed rhubarb by dividing the bush. On my site, rhubarb appeared as a result of dividing the rhizome.

If you want to harvest rhubarb on next year after planting, then do not buy plants sold in garden centers in pots - it will take more than one year to develop them. It is better to ask a gardener friend for a piece of a young rhizome with 1-2 buds from an adult 4-5 year old plant. If you take a rhizome from an old plant, then it will quickly bloom, and will not give leaves, all the strength will go into color.

For planting, it is better to use the lateral parts of the rhizome, they do not contain flowering buds, so the yield will be larger.

This rhizome is best planted in the garden (outside the crop rotation) in May or August. Plant according to the scheme 70 by 70, but you do not need many plants. By the way, one or two bushes are enough for one family.

The first time after planting rhubarb, the free space between the bushes can be used: plant spinach, kohlrabi, various salads.

Rhubarb Care

Every year in early spring rhubarb must be fed with slurry (8 parts of water for one part of manure) or bird droppings (20 parts of water for one part) and ash solution (a half-liter can of ash per bucket of water).

With absence organic fertilizers Minerals are added: urea (10 grams / m 2), superphosphate (30 grams / m 2) and calcium chloride (20 grams / m 2).

In the heat, rhubarb needs abundant watering (2-3 liters under the root), but rhubarb does not tolerate stagnant water in the soil, it can rot.

Every year, humus must be added to the aisles, this will protect the roots and buds of rhubarb from exposure.

Before the onset of frost, it is better to cover the roots with compost, grass, peat, foliage, sawdust, straw.

Rhubarb harvest

To preserve the strength of the bush in the first year, when harvesting, it is necessary to leave 20-25% of the leaves, and in the future it is better to collect the petioles regularly in order to prevent the flowering of the plant, which greatly depletes the bush and reduces its yield.

During the season, the petioles are harvested 3-4 times when they reach a length of 20-30 centimeters. Stem collection stops two months before the end of the growing season.

When harvesting, it is better not to cut the leaves, but to carefully break them out at the very base, twisting the leaf slightly from side to side - just like flower arrows, so as not to weaken the plant.

Ogre (mid-season, high-yielding, resistant to shooting), Victoria (early, but prone to flowering), Moscow (yielding).

Today I talked about growing rhubarb, I wish you all excellent harvests.

One of the plants that can please in early spring with a vitamin set, pectin and organic acids is rhubarb. It is unpretentious, frost-resistant and, with the right approach, is capable of producing products from petioles practically all year round. The owner can treat himself and his family to compotes, jelly, salads, when other vegetables in the garden are just starting to sprout. And growing and caring for rhubarb does not require much effort and effort.

Rhubarb (Rheum) is a perennial and a member of the buckwheat family. The plant is large, reaches 3 m in height and is formed from a basal rosette of leaves growing on long petioles. Thick, fleshy, reddish petioles are used for food. Their shape is cylindrical or multifaceted, reaching 4 cm in thickness.

The leaves are palmately lobed, entire, rather large in size with serrated or wavy edges. The color is usually dark green with reddish veins. At the beginning of summer, flowering begins: a large paniculate inflorescence is formed with small flowers from white to red (depending on the variety). Later, fruits are formed - brown trihedral nuts.

Rhubarb can grow in all regions of our country, including Siberia and the Far East, because it tolerates cold well. One more hallmark is a high shade tolerance. It grows in one place up to 10 years and, growing, forms dense thickets. But it needs a transplant, as the soil is depleted and the plant becomes smaller.

Propagation is carried out by seedlings and division of the roots. Agricultural technology depends on the variety and biological characteristics of the plant, but does not present any particular difficulties for the vegetable grower.

Rhubarb stalks taste like a sour apple. In terms of the content of nutrients, they are also not inferior to this fruit. It is used as a medicinal product for a number of diseases.

Main varieties and varieties

Up to 50 varieties of rhubarb are known, most of which grow in their homeland - in Asia. Most vegetable growers are in favor of obtaining products in early spring, when there is a lack of greens and vitamins. But even in the fall, juicy petioles will come in handy for preparing homemade preparations. Based on this, a variety is selected. Most often grown:

Altai dawns (early ripe) form a sprawling rosette of leaves, which sit on reddish petioles weighing 80-120 g. It has an excellent sweet-sour taste. Harvesting is carried out 30 days after the plant has grown.
Large petiolate (early ripe) has high yield, low susceptibility to disease. well tolerated low temperatures. Petioles are characterized by tender and sweet flesh with a slight sourness.
Victoria (early) refers to high-yielding varieties, in which petioles quickly grow, reaching a mass of 200-250 g. At first they are red, but over time they acquire green color. Forms flower stalks early, they must be cut immediately.
Ob (mid-season) forms a large rosette of slightly corrugated leaves with pink petioles. They have a delicate sweet and sour taste. The cold-resistant variety is tolerant of excess moisture but does not tolerate drought.
Ogre-13 (mid-season) forms a compact leaf rosette with dark green foliage. Slightly ribbed petioles are red in color and individual specimens increase their mass of 300-350 g. The variety is resistant to bolting and forms few peduncles.
The gigantic (late-ripening) is distinguished by its impressive appearance. Rhubarb with dark red petioles has large size. The popularity of the variety is noted due to the late return of the harvest and excellent taste.

In order to collect juicy petioles during the summer, several varieties must be planted on the site, in which different dates maturation.

The combination of rhubarb with other plants

Rhubarb grows well next to salads, representatives of cruciferous (cabbage), does not mind the neighborhood with spinach and beans. It is oppressed by fruit and vegetable crops placed next to it. For example, he is unfriendly to representatives of the nightshade family, radishes, onions, legumes, carrots and a number of other plants that live in the beds.

It is advisable to plant the bushes separately. And since the petiole culture loves partial shade, it will fit perfectly at the fence, close the area near the outbuildings, or be placed in a corner in a shaded corner of the garden.

planting dates

The date of planting is related to the method of reproduction. Many growers prefer vegetative way since seeds can grow wild forms of rhubarb. Boarding times:

rhizome plant reproduces in spring- autumn period;
seeds are sown before winter, when the ground freezes;
seedlings are sown in March.

When dividing the rhizome, the harvest of tender petioles will not be long in coming, and seedling method will allow you to get a bush 20-30 cm high, capable of overwintering normally.

Planting a rhizome

How to choose a healthy uterine bush in the country? For reproduction and subsequent cultivation, it must meet the following characteristics:

meet varietal qualities;
be big and strong;
be 4-5 years old;
form few flower stalks.

There is no need to grow many plants. Usually, rhubarb is not grown in large quantities; 2-3 bushes are enough for one family.

By the time of transplantation, landing pits should be ready. Their size is approximately 50 × 50 cm, and the distance between the bushes is 50-70 cm. You can plant young bushes in the autumn-spring period.

Rhubarb gives juicy petioles in fertile areas and grows in one place for a long time, so they bring into the planting pits: 1 bucket of peat, 1 bucket of humus, 0.5 l wood ash mixed with earth.

When applying mineral fertilizers, the pits are prepared in advance so that the granules have time to dissolve and do not burn the root system.

The division procedure goes through several stages:

we rake the earth from the bush;
we select part of the delenka with 2-3 kidneys;
cut it off from the main bush;
we plant the delenka on a new site.

It is not necessary to process the cut points: rhubarb has a good survival rate and quickly grows.

Fit Options

Since the green culture prefers nutrient-rich soil, a mixture of peat and humus is poured to the bottom landing pit. A seedling is placed in the center, the roots are spread over the surface and covered with a small layer of peat soil. Next, pour the earth mixed with ash.

The depth of the buds is about 3 cm. The rhubarb should be well buried, without leaving the buds on the surface. After planting, shed the soil and mulch. In the early stages of growth frequent watering not necessary, as young bushes consume little moisture.

Another planting option is when fresh manure is used instead of humus. It is placed at the bottom of the pit, covered with peat chips on top and the roots of the seedling are placed. From above they are covered with earth mixed with ash. The roots are not burned, as there is a peat layer. Gradually, manure rots and releases nutrients. As in the first case, abundant watering and mulching are required.

Planting rhubarb seeds

Seeds are sown directly on the site before winter or used to obtain seedlings. In the first case, the seed material does not need to be processed, since it undergoes stratification during the winter, is saturated with moisture and actively grows. But it will take 2 years to wait for full-fledged, adult plants.

The use of the seedling method is preferable, as it significantly reduces the time of growth and obtaining petiole products. In the garden there is always a small semi-shaded area where you can plant a few copies of rhubarb.

Preparing seeds for sowing

Dry seeds can also be sown, but they germinate for 16-20 days. This period of time is significantly reduced if pre-processing is carried out:

into a small container pour thawed or clean water by adding any growth stimulant (Epin, aloe juice);
keep the seeds in water for 48 hours and drain it;
lay out on a damp cloth and fold it;
leave for 10 days in the refrigerator at a temperature of 0, + 5C:
then leave in a warm place until germination.

processed in this way planting material sprouting after a week. After sowing, seedlings appear in 8-12 days, that is, two times faster than when sowing with dry seeds.

Sowing in open ground

If sowing is done with germinated seeds, then best term- the last days of spring. Rhubarb gives good and friendly shoots when the earth warms up to +16, +20C. The soil is prepared in advance, into which they add 1 sq. M. 1-2 buckets of humus or compost and 0.5 liters of ash. For seeds, grooves up to 3 cm deep are prepared and planted after 3-5 cm.

When three real leaves appear, the seedlings are thinned out by placing the bushes at a distance of 20 cm from each other. After 1-2 years, when the plants become adults, they are seated according to the same principle as the delenki.

Early sowing can lead to the death of young seedlings, if possible. return frosts. The hatched leaves die at a temperature of -2, -6C.

Sowing for seedlings

It is desirable to sow seeds in the second half of March, when daylight hours are long enough. When growing seedlings, you should follow a few simple rules:

we prepare a loose and nutritious soil mixture or use a ready-made one;
when shoots appear, put the box in a bright and cool place;
water and feed twice a month (for example, Fertik Lux solution);
in phase 2, the leaves are planted in cups;
a week before planting in the ground, we accustom the seedlings to natural conditions, gradually accustoming them to fresh air.

When the seedlings get stronger and get used to natural environment, they are planted in the ground. Usually the landing time is the end of May, the beginning of June.

Features of transplanting rhubarb depending on the season

It is best to plant rhubarb in a new place in the fall, a month before the cold comes, or in early spring until the foliage begins to grow. These are the most convenient periods, since all the juices are collected in the roots and the leaves do not pull out. nutrients and do not evaporate moisture. The roots at this time do not nourish the plant and it tolerates the transplant painlessly.

In summer, the bush grows, the process of photosynthesis and nutrition takes place in the leaves, so transplantation is extremely difficult and rhubarb does not always take root, reacting extremely sensitively to mechanical damage. At the same time, it will not work to grow a healthy bush.

Young bushes and seedlings lend themselves to summer transplantation, which are transferred to a new site with a large clod of earth. They need regular watering and careful shading.

In the first year of planting, you can not cut the petioles. The plant has not yet reached maturity and with the loss of a few leaves, it will weaken significantly. Cutting is done only for 2-3 years of growth.

Rhubarb Care

Caring for a petiole culture is easy. Traditional activities are carried out: watering, removing weeds, fertilizing, loosening. Additional options include cutting flower stalks.

Plant nutrition and fertilizer

Feeding a green crop is enough 3 times per season, since it has minimal fertilizer requirements. Responsive rhubarb organic top dressing, of which the most commonly used infusion of mullein (1:5), chicken manure (1:10) or nettle and weeds.

Add if necessary complex fertilizer Kemira-station wagon or nitrophoska. Suitable for these purposes and ash, which is added in dry form during loosening before watering. Application rate - 1 glass of ash per 1 sq. m.

Nitrogen fertilizers contribute to the growth of leaf mass, but they need to be applied in the spring, in summer period they contribute to the formation of peduncles.

Since the plant is powerful, it shades the soil and the weeds practically do not grow under it, and there are no difficulties with a large amount of weeds.

Rhubarb needs regular watering, without which the fleshy petioles do not grow. With a moderately rainy summer, 3-4 waterings per season are enough, but they should be plentiful. Thanks to water, oxalic acid practically does not accumulate in the petioles.

Protection against diseases and pests

Rhubarb is practically not attacked by pests and rarely gets sick. In some cases, "raids" of the buckwheat flea or rhubarb bug are observed. Of the diseases, the most dangerous gray rot and false powdery mildew, which most often develop during thickened plantings.

For reliability, you can carry out a three-time treatment with Fitosporin, and use pests folk remedies. If the disease is severe, then the plants should be removed and burned so that neighboring plantings do not suffer.

Harvest Rules

The crop can be harvested in the second year of growth in May-June with a petiole length of 20-25 cm. The first, earliest harvests are the most valuable, since they contain the greatest amount of useful substances. During the season, succulent stems are harvested several times until early August.

The petioles are not cut, but carefully broken out so as not to damage the growth shoots. To do this, the petiole is scrolled several times and pulled out with a jerk down, otherwise the rhizome will suffer. When harvested, the main rosette of leaves is left on the plant. So the bush will not weaken and will not be depleted.

Only fresh shoots of rhubarb are useful, and in mature ones there is a high concentration of oxalic acid, which is not useful for the body. Leaves and roots are not eaten.

If southerners have a lot of vitamin crops that produce products in early spring, then Siberians have little choice. With spring beriberi, rhubarb stalks will help out perfectly, they can be boiled soups, added to salads and compotes. And if there is a place for a couple of bushes on the site, then early vitamin production will not take long.

Rhubarb is a perennial herbaceous plant, belonging to the Buckwheat family and being a valuable food product. It comes from China, Manchuria; grows wild in Altai, the Far East and Siberia. AT recent times rhubarb is growing in popularity and is grown by many growers.

It can be easily recognized by powerful branched rhizomes, straight thick stems with a hollow structure, and large basal long-leaved leaves of a serrated or palmate-lobed shape. Above-ground shoot, as a rule, ends with a paniculate inflorescence. This culture blooms with white, pinkish, greenish or (rarely enough) red flowers. Subsequently, the plant forms fruits that look like trihedral nuts. In this article, we will tell you how to suburban area. Using our advice, you can get a rich harvest and use the valuable and rich in trace elements and vitamins stems of this perennial in the preparation of a wide variety of dishes: jams, compotes, jams, soups, etc. This plant contains great amount organic acids (malic, oxalic, etc.), vitamins (P, C), potassium salts. Since ancient times, it has been used for medicinal purposes to reduce gas formation and increase intestinal motility.

Rhubarb: planting and care. Growing features

This perennial grows well on clay and loamy soils. Normally tolerates hyperacidity, but still prefers the range of 5.5-7 pH. For good growth the plant needs a deep arable layer. It develops poorly and bears fruit in wetlands, in places with high standing. ground water. Before planting rhubarb (since autumn), the site is prepared: organic matter (up to 10 kg / m²), lime (500 g / m²), and superphosphate (up to 30 g / m²) are added. Be sure to add in the spring nitrogen supplements(up to 20 g/m²), and with immediate landing humus or compost is placed in each hole.

Rhubarb: planting and care. reproduction

In one area, this plant can grow normally for about 15 years, but it is advisable to transplant it at least once a decade. This perennial is propagated in two ways: by seed and by division of the rhizome. The latter seems to be the easiest and most convenient method of cultivation. The rhubarb plant is divided in the fall; for this, the most powerful, well-developed bushes are chosen. They are cut with a pruner or a shovel into several parts (up to 4) so that each fragment has 2 large buds and healthy roots. Slices are processed charcoal. The fragments are dried and planted on new, pre-prepared areas. Seeds are sown either in late autumn or spring. They are placed in the ground to a depth of about 3 cm.

Rhubarb shoots appear on average after 17 days, after which they are thinned out so that the distance between seedlings is 20 cm, and a pick is made. After two years, the bushes can be transplanted to a permanent place. A plant with a clod of earth on the rhizome is transferred to a planting hole, the depth of which should be about 50 cm. The soil is compacted, watered and mulched with peat (humus). Between the bushes maintain a distance of 80 cm.

Rhubarb. Planting and caring for a delicious perennial

Caring for this plant consists in periodically removing weeds, abundant watering (especially on hot, hot days), loosening the soil around the bush and between rows, and fertilizing. Long and tasty stems of rhubarb can be obtained only by watering it correctly and at the right time. During the season, the bushes are moistened 4 times, using about 40 l / m². Abundant watering makes the petioles tastier and less acidic. Also, to increase the yield, inflorescences should be systematically removed. When collecting petioles, they must not be cut, but carefully pulled out. The first roots can be collected when they reach about 30 cm, the next - 60 cm. As for top dressing, in the first year after planting, organic (mullein, and mineral fertilizers("Nitrofoska", "Kemira-universal"). They are introduced after repeated thinning, every 12 days in turn. In subsequent years, rhubarb is fertilized 3 times per season. At the beginning of spring, superphosphate (20 g / m²), ammonium sulphate (10 g) and potassium (10 g) are added. 4 weeks after the first feeding, superphosphate is added (20 g per 10 l). In August, the third procedure is performed (potash and rhubarb should be covered with fallen leaves for the winter. Planting and caring for the plant must be carried out correctly and be timely, then the plant will produce a rich crop of petioles for many years.

Rhubarb is considered the first vegetable that hits our tables in the spring. Its taste has been compared to that of an apple, but it can be enjoyed much earlier, as it ripens in early spring, when gardens are just beginning to bloom. This vegetable contains a large amount of vitamins, acids and salts, so to saturate the body with useful substances, you need to learn how to grow rhubarb.

Planting seedlings

Gardeners usually grow seedlings of rhubarb roots in greenhouses or small greenhouses. Seeds at seedling method cultivation must first be soaked in warm water until the seeds begin to swell, they are placed in damp gauze or burlap for germination, periodically moistening it. When white sprouts appear, the length of which will reach 2 mm, the planting material must be dried to a loose state, and then sown.

It is recommended to sow seeds in furrows with a row spacing of about 30 cm, the soil for sowing should be moist. Cold air should not stagnate in the place for planting rhubarb seedlings. Gardeners adhere to clear deadlines for planting seeds, you can start in the third decade of April, but it is desirable to complete the process before the end of the first decade of May. It is not worth deepening the seeds to a depth of more than 3 cm. The consumption of planting material is about 4 grams per 1 m². If the seeds were pre-germinated, then the first shoots can be expected 5-6 days after sowing in the nursery. When two true leaves are formed in seedlings, they must be thinned out, the strongest specimens should be left, maintaining a distance of 15-20 cm between them.

Planting care for rhubarb seedlings includes regular weed control, soil loosening, moderate watering of beds and fertilizing seedlings with organic and mineral fertilizers.

With the onset of autumn, the seedling height at optimal conditions growth will reach about 25-30 cm with the presence of 4 normally developed leaves. On average with square meter nursery, you can get up to 20 specimens that will overwinter and already in the spring they can be planted in a permanent place.

Planting material (roots or their segments) with the presence of buds that have begun to develop are planted in holes made in advance with a shovel according to the scheme 100 × 100 cm or 100 × 80 cm. It is necessary to plant rhubarb so that there are no voids in the root system, the apical bud is deepened into the soil by 2 cm. In case of insufficient soil moisture, upon completion landing work wells are watered.

seedless method

Rhubarb is a perennial vegetable that, under normal climatic conditions and care can grow in one place for more than 10 years, or even more, so the soil for planting it must be fertile enough, and thawed or rain water. The seedless method of growing rhubarb roots involves propagating the crop by dividing the rhizome or planting the whole root. To carry out this procedure, gardeners are advised to dig out a four-year-old bush in early spring (March), then the root must be divided so that each individual part has a root and three good buds. The cut parts must be dried, this is done so that after landing in the ground they do not begin to rot. The delenki are planted in the ground to a certain depth, for heavy soil it is 5-6 cm, and for light (sandy) 7-8 cm.

If the whole rhizome is used for planting, then the planting hole should have a depth and width of 60 cm, the bottom is filled with compost and then the root is placed there. In order for the seedling to take root faster than planting, it is often necessary to water it abundantly with settled water. When loosening the soil, they introduce into the soil ammonium nitrate about 0.2 grams of the substance is needed as a feed for 1 weave. After 30 days, the procedure is repeated.

The main advantage of this growing method is the preservation of all varietal characteristics by rhubarb and earlier fruiting than the seedling method.

Care after planting

Caring for planting rhubarb does not require much effort, as with any other vegetable, you need to regularly deal with weeds in the beds, moderately water the plants and prevent stagnant water, loosen the soil between the rows to saturate the root system with oxygen.

Plant feeding is usually carried out 2 times a season, this procedure is combined with watering. For fertilizer, a solution of mullein is used, half a liter of manure is diluted in a ten-liter bucket of water. Approximately every four years, humus or manure is applied under rhubarb bushes, it is desirable to allocate up to 1.5 buckets of this fertilizer per plant.

In the second year after planting rhubarb, uterine stems will begin to form, because of them the bushes are depleted, so the stems must be removed annually.

Selection of new seeds

Rhubarb seeds are recommended to be collected from specimens that have reached the age of 3-4 years. It is necessary to leave about 3 peduncles, when they become brown, they must be cut and dried in sheaves. Soon the seeds will dry out and ripen completely, and they will have to be threshed manually. After that, the planting material will need to be dried again (12% moisture). Store seeds only in linen bags in a dry place that is well ventilated.

Planting in autumn

Most gardeners prefer to plant rhubarb in the fall in the third decade of September, because then the plant will be able to take root well by the onset of persistent cold weather. For planting in the autumn, it is recommended to use the seedless method of planting rhubarb roots, the planting process itself is no different from the spring one. The bushes will grow, so one plant is planted per 1 m².