Planting and caring for a tree peony in the open field. tree peony planting care growing

tree peony, unlike its grassy relatives, tolerates winter well. The height of its bush reaches three meters, and the diameter of the flowers is twenty-five centimeters. The plant is not capricious and, with proper care, can live on your site for up to fifty years.

How to plant a tree peony

Tree peonies are planted in early spring or closer to autumn. best period autumn is considered, since frosts are still possible in spring, the soil is not warm enough and the air is also. In any case, it is worth choosing a warm and dry day for planting.

After planting in the ground, the plant will need a lot of space. The site should be selected closed from the wind and slightly shaded from the sun. It is undesirable to plant a flower near big trees or shrubs with a highly branched root system. When planting a tree peony, you should consider the location ground water, since the peony root system does not tolerate excess moisture.

Heavy soil before planting must be diluted with sand and saturate with fertilizer. Depth of processing - 70 cm. Peonies are shown loose, fertile and not acidic soil. Humus and peat are added to sandy soils, sand and humus are added to clay soils, and acidic soils are limed. dolomite flour. Compliance with the rules of agricultural technology for a tree peony is the key to the development of a strong and healthy plant.

The planting hole is dug two weeks before immediate landing. Its shape should be cone-shaped from top to bottom, depth - up to seventy centimeters. The bottom of the hole should be covered with drainage (expanded clay, coarse gravel, broken brick) with a layer of 20 cm. Place the prepared mixture on the drainage: a layer of soil, peat, humus, potassium sulfide 200 g, superphosphate 400 g, bone meal 400 g, copper sulfate 40 g The mixture must be thoroughly mixed, a layer of clean fertile soil should be applied on top.

Now let's figure out how to choose peony seedlings when buying. A suitable seedling on the stem has two or three strong buds, as well as several adventitious roots, at least five centimeters long. root system good seedling in volume is not inferior to the crown.

Just before planting, in the previously prepared hole, a hole breaks, and a hill forms at the bottom. The seedling must be lowered onto a hill, its roots straightened and watered abundantly. When the moisture settles, sprinkle the roots with soil, leaving their neck in line with the surface.

Some nuances of tree peony care

In addition to observing the landing rules, it is also required proper care behind a tree peony. Here everything is exactly the same as with grassy species - the main thing is timeliness.

Watering and loosening the soil

Twice a month it is necessary to pour about seven liters of water under the bush. In the absence of precipitation and strong heat, water the plant more often as the soil dries. After watering, the soil must be thoroughly loosened, saturating it with oxygen. Try to walk over the entire surface above the roots, without going deeper than five centimeters. At the same time, remove the weeds.

Top dressing and fertilizer

Tree peonies need enhanced nutrition with potassium and nitrogen. During the growth period, apply to the soil nitrogen, during bud formation potassium and phosphorus. When the peony blooms, add potassium and phosphorus again nitrogen compounds. Nitrogen must be applied, but do not overfeed the plant, as this can provoke rot.

Important! WITH try to timetop dressing for watering, so as not to burn the roots.

At the end of flowering, the flower stalks need to be cut off, and just before the dormant period, feed the peony with a mixture wood ash(300 g) and bone meal(200 g) under the bush.

Peony pruning

The described plant does not like frequent removal of branches. Pruning a tree peony in autumn is not recommended, as abundant flowering buds on last year's shoots. Formative pruning is carried out in the spring before the buds set. This should be done every few years. All other procedures concern only pruning of damaged and weak shoots, branches growing inside the bush. Weak branches need to be cut to fifteen centimeters; in young shoots, some of the buds are sometimes removed so as not to weaken their development.

Important! If there was a year with sharp temperature changes and the plant was very frozen, pruning, almost to the ground level, can help restore it.

Shelter for the winter

tree peony frosts are not terrible, and here early thaws can hurt. During warming, the plant wakes up and grows, and when the cold returns, it dies.

Therefore, the question is: "Do I need to cover a tree peony for the winter?" - very relevant. To maintain health and decorative look it is better to save his plants. At the end of October, collect the branches in a heap and tie them, after cover the trunk circle with peat mulch. Closer to the cold, cover the bush with improvised materials: pieces of tree bark, spruce branches or jute bags.

Did you know? In China, there are tree peony nurseries protected by law. Half a century old peonies grow there under the supervision of specialists.

Tree peony transplant

A transplant for a tree peony is a lot of stress. The plant can be sick for several years and hard to recover, so when performing the procedure, be careful with the root system: you need to dig it out very carefully, along with a clod of soil. After that, gently rinse the roots, inspect and remove dry and diseased, and cut too long. Places of cuts should be treated with a weak solution of manganese and sprinkled with coal dust.

How to propagate a tree peony yourself

The most common tree peony propagate vegetatively, different ways. Let's consider each of them in more detail.

Interesting! An ancient legend says that the peony is named after the healer Pean. This doctor put on his feet not only people, but also the gods. For a long time, peonies were bred solely for their healing properties, and in Ancient Greece the plant was called the "flower of twenty ailments."

Division of the rhizome

Formed three- or five-year-old plants with strong branches (at least seven) are suitable for dividing the rhizome. The optimal time for this procedure is August-September. The selected bush is carefully dug up, cleaned of adhering earth and washed. The branches are cut to ten centimeters, the roots are dried for about three hours in the shade.

The prepared plant is divided with a sharp knife into several seedlings with two or three buds. Places of cut sprinkled with dust charcoal and treated with a fungicide. For less injury, you can stretch the rhizome, without resorting to cutting with a knife, but after that it will need to be dipped in a clay mash.

cuttings

Peonies are cut from June to August. Plants with semi-lignified shoots and formed buds are selected. The shoots are cut obliquely under the bud, the leaf plates are shortened by two-thirds. The cut point is dipped in a root growth stimulator and planted in boxes with prepared soil, deepening the buds into the ground.

The earth is prepared from sand and peat one to one, sprinkled with sand on top. The boxes are covered with foil and maintain soil moisture until autumn. In October, strengthened cuttings are planted in a greenhouse and left there until spring. Cuttings - not too much convenient way, since the plants propagated in this way bloom only in the fifth year.

layering

Reproduction of a tree-like peony by layering is carried out in May, before the period of its flowering. The strongest shoot of the bush is pressed to the ground and an incision is made at the point of contact with the soil. For better rooting, the incision is treated with root development stimulants and a spacer is placed. The incision site is sprinkled with a layer of soil - 15 cm.

The second option (considered less productive): without bending to the ground, the incision is wrapped with polyethylene and covered with pitch. In both cases, you need to monitor soil moisture. New roots appear by the beginning of September.

Inoculation

Reproduction by grafting is the most time-consuming process. Root segments of herbaceous peonies about fifteen centimeters long are suitable as a stock. The scion should be a cutting cut from the shoot of the current year and having two eyes. The roots of the stock are kept in a cool room for up to three weeks, after which a wedge-shaped cut is made on the root segment, also cutting the lower part.

Tree peony care in autumn preparation for winter. Especially for the readers of “Popular about Health”, I will consider how to properly complete the season for such a plant as a tree peony - care in the fall, preparation for winter, what do they mean for it. How to perform all the necessary manipulations so that this beautiful plant and next year delighted gardeners with its stunning flowers?

Shrub features

Grow on your own garden plot this magnificent plant is the dream of many gardeners. The tree-like peony is distinguished by stunningly beautiful inflorescences, the diameter of which can be about 20 centimeters.

The color of the inflorescences can be white, yellow, white-yellow, pink, purple, in addition, burgundy and bright red. The shape of the flowers is also very variable and can be cone-shaped or spherical.

This is a true gardener. A shrub in one place can grow for about several decades. Choice best place it is critical for their growth, since the tree peony does not tolerate transplanting too well.

Features of the autumn image

The optimal time for the first pruning is the period after the end of flowering. At this time, wilted flowers and dried leaves should be carefully cut off. It is not recommended to touch other parts of the plant at this time.

After the end of the flowering phase, the processes of biosynthesis proceed intensively in the leaves of the plant, which allows the shrub to accumulate a greater amount of nutrients that will be in demand during the cold season.

The second pruning is usually carried out in late September, early November. At this time, as a rule, the first autumn frosts are already passing and therefore the foliage of the shrub withers and no longer performs photosynthesis processes.

Pruning tree peonies in the fall is of two types: for the formation of shrubs and for rejuvenation of the plant. In the first case, with the help of this procedure, the aesthetic form of the plant is formed. At the same time, the lignified peony stems, with the help of garden pruner cut to a height of about 70 - 90 centimeters.

Anti-aging pruning consists in removing old shoots and is carried out extremely rarely - 1 time in 10 or 15 years. The need for this procedure is quite simple to determine - the bushes begin to bloom very poorly throughout the season. If anti-aging pruning is carried out in a timely manner and in sufficient volume, life expectancy can be 60 - 80 years.

How to transplant in the fall?

Replanting a plant in general is not necessary, but there are situations when it is simply necessary to do so. So, a peony should be transplanted if:

It is planned to introduce significant changes V landscape design;
The previous transplant was not the most successful;
The bush has grown significantly and no longer fits into the area allotted to it.

Strictly speaking, these peonies really do not like transplanting to another place and always tolerate it very poorly. They should be transplanted if and only if there are simply no other options to solve the situation.

Choosing the right location is critical. For a tree peony, a light, calm area is optimal. In addition, it is better to take into account the wind rose, so that as much snow as possible accumulates in this part of the garden in winter.

For planting, a cone-shaped pit is required, the depth of which depends on the size of the transplanted bush. At the bottom of the pit, you need to pour crushed stone or expanded clay, as well as a little humus.

When planting, it is necessary not to deepen the growth point (cone at the base of the stem). She must stay outside. Next, the transplanted plant should be generously watered and sprinkled with a pre-prepared soil mixture consisting of soil and peat.

How to cover for the winter?

IN middle lane It is absolutely necessary for Russia to cover the tree-like peony, since frosts in our latitudes can be very significant, up to -35 and below. In addition, it is very easy to cover this plant.

First, the plant must be sprinkled with peat (a layer of about 10 centimeters), and then from spruce branches build something that looks like a hut. To make the structure stable, it is necessary to tie it with garden twine. From above, the structure can be covered with polyethylene, which will limit the amount of precipitation.

The constructed frame can remain empty, or it can be filled with oak leaves. In general, this procedure is not necessary for the safe wintering of the plant. Snow, which will strengthen the structure during the winter, will not allow the cold to penetrate inside.

General Tips cultivation

In order for a tree peony to bloom perfectly, all that is required is: watering, weeding, periodic pruning and top dressing. The intensity of watering depends on the air temperature and averages about 6 liters per bush.

For top dressing during the growing season, it is recommended to use nitrogenous fertilizers, which allow the peony to gain weight perfectly. Pruning is carried out at the end of the garden season and, if necessary, during the summer. Do not forget to weed the soil well, which will increase the supply of oxygen and increase the resistance of the shrub to negative factors.

Many amateur gardeners are not averse to seeing a luxurious tree-like peony on their site.

Planting and caring for this flower, contrary to popular belief, is not particularly difficult.

The tree peony is surprisingly very hardy, unpretentious plant, at optimal conditions able to live in a flower bed for up to half a century.

Tree peony. Landing and care

This flower differs from the herbaceous forms more familiar to us in that it grows in the form of a rather large bush, the height of which can reach three, and sometimes more than meters. In addition, this representative of the southern flora does not die off in winter, but annually pleases with the flowering of its exquisite fragrant flowers, up to 25 cm in diameter.

This beautiful flower is a fairly tall bush, blooming profusely with large flowers with a delicate aroma.

A tree-like peony, planted and cared for in accordance with all the rules, begins to bloom at the age of 5-7 years. At the same time, flowers do not appear on shoots growing from the ground, but exclusively on old lignified shoots. Astilba looks no less impressive on the garden plot, the flowers of which can be painted in a wide variety of colors and shades.

Soil for planting

For successful cultivation these colors great importance It has proper fit, which affects not only the attractive appearance plants, but also on its lifespan.

The bush has large fleshy perennial roots with a large supply of nutrients. In order for them to be able to grow and develop normally, the land must be fertile and deeply cultivated (up to 70 cm), thereby providing root system uniform flow of water.

If it is compacted or excessively moistened, this will lead to oppression of the roots, and flowering in this case may be in jeopardy.

It is also worth paying attention to the location of groundwater: if they flow at a depth of less than one meter, the flower will die. In this case, when planting, it is worth laying a drainage layer, which will greatly improve the development of the plant and increase the period of its productive use.

Tree-like peonies feel best on cultivated loamy soils with good air and water permeability. The soil solution ideally has a slightly acidic reaction (pH 5.5-6.5).

Location selection

When choosing a place for planting, do not forget that this plant is light-loving, which, however, needs protection from direct sun rays.

In addition, such a place should be reliably protected from the wind and, if possible, located away from large trees or shrubs.

Please note that a tree peony will require a lot of space.

The most favorable time for landing on permanent place is early spring or mid-August - late September. Wherein autumn time it is preferable, since in spring there is a danger of late frosts, and by that time the earth had not yet had time to warm up properly. Peonies should be planted only in warm weather.

Landing

The planting hole is best prepared in advance, 2-3 weeks before planting the flowers. It looks like a cone with a diameter of about 70 cm. Do not forget to fill the bottom with a drainage layer 15-20 cm high: broken brick, gravel, sand, pieces of old stumps.

Lay rotted manure on top of the drainage, on top of which - an earthen mixture consisting of peat, humus, the top fertile layer of the earth, organic fertilizers.

Also add the following mineral fertilizers to the prepared soil mixture: 200 g of potassium sulfide, 400 g of granulated superphosphate, 400 g of bone meal, 40 g of copper sulfate. Mix mineral fertilizers thoroughly with nutrient soil and backfill the hole a couple of weeks before planting. In this case, the top layer must necessarily consist of one fertile soil.

Immediately before planting, a hole is dug again, a small mound is made at the bottom, on which you need to straighten the roots of the plant and immediately pour big amount water. When it is absorbed, the roots are carefully covered with earth, making sure that root neck was at the same level as the ground.

Care: watering, fertilizing, pruning

A tree-like peony, planting and caring for which comes down to ordinary watering, weeding and top dressing, in the first year, as a rule, does not bloom and looks somewhat weak. If the buds have formed, it is recommended to remove them before blooming, so as not to weaken young plant.

This spectacular flower needs good abundant watering, which will be especially appropriate in late June - July, during the laying and formation of buds. Plants are watered once every 8-10 days, preferably with a hose, trying not to wet the base of the stems and leaves.

Regular abundant watering should continue until the end of August. But if the autumn turned out to be warm, then it can be continued in September. Also, do not forget to loosen the aisles and remove weeds.

If landing pits were covered by all the rules, then for another two years the flowers will not need additional feeding. And only in the third year after landing they will need to be fed.

The best fertilizer for tree peonies is wood ash, bone meal, as well as mineral fertilizers with high content potassium and phosphorus, and a small amount of nitrogen. If there is a lot of nitrogen in the composition, this will lead to a decrease in the plant's resistance to diseases.

To prolong plant life and correct formation Bush every spring spend rejuvenating pruning. Shoots need to be shortened to the first living bud, cut off dried leaflets. In young plants, some of the buds can be safely removed.

Preparing for winter

Despite the fact that the tree peony is considered a winter-hardy plant, it can still freeze in harsh winters.

In early October, the shoots must be tied up, but in no case should they be bent to the ground, as they are fragile and can be damaged.

The trunk circle is best mulched with peat, as foliage, straw or manure can cause the development of gray rot.

With the onset of persistent frosts, the bushes are covered using wooden shields, coniferous spruce branches, non-woven material or burlap.

In the spring, as soon as the first points appear, the shelter can be removed. Possible spring frosts no longer pose a serious threat to adapted plants.

Reproduction of tree peonies is possible in several ways: by seeds, rooting layering, dividing bushes, grafting, cuttings.

1. seeds - this method is considered the longest and most laborious, as it requires certain skills and knowledge. The fact is that the seeds of this plant have an underdeveloped embryo, and therefore need to be stratified.

2. Rooting cuttings carried out in early spring. For this method of reproduction, well-developed shoots should be chosen, which are carefully bent to the ground. An incision is made from the side facing the soil, a small spacer is inserted into it and sprinkled with earth with a layer of 10 cm. A year later, a new plant is planted.

3. The division of the bushes is the simplest yet reliable way pion breeding. 5-6-year-old plants are dug up in August, carefully freed from the ground and divided at the root neck by stretching parts of the bush. New division in without fail must have roots and several buds. The gaps must be disinfected with potassium permanganate and sprinkled with charcoal powder.

4. Grafting at the root is another breeding method carried out in early August. Cuttings with two buds are selected, the lower part of which is cut wedge-shaped from both sides. At the root of the stock, you need to make a cutout of the same shape, insert the scion stalk tightly into it and bandage it with plastic wrap.

The resulting plants are laid horizontally in moistened sawdust and placed away from sunlight. A month later, rooted plants are planted in a greenhouse so that the lower eye is in the soil at a depth of 5-7 cm. To prevent drying, sawdust is sprinkled on top. Peonies are planted in a permanent place after two years.

5. Propagation of peonies by semi-lignified cuttings takes place in the second half of June. The cuttings are cut in such a way that there is a bud with a leaf and small area escape wood. To reduce evaporation, the sheet is cut in half. The resulting cuttings should be planted to a depth of 1.5-2 cm in boxes filled with a mixture of sand and peat, covered with foil, regularly watered and sprayed.

By September, the cuttings have time to take root, and then they can be transplanted into pots. Until spring, young plants are kept in a greenhouse, after which they are planted in a permanent place. Knowing how to grow petunia seedlings, you can decorate your site with these beautiful flowers.

The subtleties of growing tree peonies

• Grafted tree-like peonies are planted immediately in a permanent place; these plants do not tolerate transplantation well.
• A place for planting is chosen away from trees and shrubs.
• And also closed from drafts.
• Peony loves the morning and evening sun, shading is desirable at noon. In bright sun, the flowers fade and fade faster.
• Damp and flooded areas in spring are not suitable for growing tree-like peonies;
• Soil with an alkaline reaction (7.5-8 pH) for tree peonies is preferable than acidic.
• If the roots of the seedling are very dry, they should be soaked in water for half an hour.

Own-rooted and grafted tree peonies

Tree peonies are rooted and grafted. Both of them have their own advantages and features that must be taken into account when growing. In some matters, the requirements for care also differ.

Own-rooted tree peonies V suitable conditions will live for a very long time, over 20 years (theoretically up to 200 years). They are very viable, winter well, resistant to diseases. Own-rooted peonies are easy to propagate by dividing the bush. The disadvantages include the fact that such peonies bloom only 4-5 years after planting and grow slowly during the first five years. By this age they reach a height of 60-70 cm. Dignity grafted tree peonies, for which they are bred - rapid growth and flowering. flowering plants can be obtained even in the year of planting, and certainly - on next year. The rootstock for grafted tree peonies is the most hardy and resistant varieties of the herbaceous peony P. lactiflora. Such plants show rapid growth, up to 50 cm per year. Grafted peonies may not be as durable as the roots herbaceous peony, on which they are grafted, grow strongly over time, become hollow inside and rot. Another drawback is that they do not reproduce by dividing the bush. Also, unlike own-rooted ones, they do not tolerate transplanting well, so they need to be planted immediately in a permanent place.

When buying, own-rooted and grafted peonies are easy to distinguish by their roots. In their own roots, they are numerous, long and relatively thin (about 5 - 8 mm in diameter), have a light brown color. Grafted peonies have thick roots 4-5 cm in diameter (these are the roots of the rootstock - a grassy peony).

Plant both own-rooted and grafted peonies on the site. While some develop and reach flowering age, the latter will actively bloom.

Landing dates

The planting time of a tree peony depends on the type of seedling acquired: with an open root system (OCS) - sold both with bare roots and in the substrate, or with a closed root system (ZKS) - sold in containers.

seedlings with ZKS can be planted at almost any time. If you plant a grafted peony with ZKS in the spring, you can get the first flowering in the same season.

seedlings with OKS is preferably planted in August - September. At spring planting such seedlings with the onset of heat, the development of green mass ahead of the development of roots. This is because on the bare root system there is practically no needed by the plant suction small roots, they are formed when the roots are in the soil at low positive temperatures. The plant takes root with difficulty, develops poorly and looks oppressed. And the flowering of such a peony comes later.

How to store a seedling before planting

If a seedling with ACS was bought in winter or spring, they practice “intermediate” planting in a container until autumn. The container is needed with a volume of about 5 liters, with holes for water drainage. It is advisable to take a non-acidic soil, put drainage on the bottom of the tank.

Until spring, the peony is kept in a room where a positive, but close to zero temperature is constantly maintained, for example, in a cellar or on a loggia, and if conditions and weather permit, dig into the snow. Water rarely and little by little, only so that the soil does not dry out. The purpose of such a planting is to prevent the plant from growing for as long as possible and to give the opportunity to build up suction roots.

If the shoots nevertheless began to grow, when the seedling reaches a size of 15-20 cm, it should be placed in a bright, but still cool room, while maintaining minimal watering. If leaves appear on the peony, it is useful to spray with Ferovit.

With the onset of the summer season, a container with a seedling is taken out into the garden, and there they also find for it the coolest, but not windy corner in the openwork shade of trees. And in August-September, a strengthened seedling is moved to a permanent place of residence.

Landing technology

The soil must settle before planting peonies, so the pits are prepared in advance, at least 2 weeks before planting.

The size of the landing pits is large: at least 40 cm in diameter and 50 cm deep. Drainage is laid at the bottom with a thickness of at least 10 cm, preferably 20-30 cm. The distance between the pits is 1 - 1.5 m.

Prepare fertile soil containing peat or compost, humus, sand in equal proportions, add bone meal (200-400 g).

If buds have already formed on the seedling, they must be cut before planting.

Part of the prepared soil is poured into the planting pit. A seedling from the ZKS is simply rolled over with a clod of earth. The remaining soil is poured on top until the pit is filled.

To plant a seedling with ACS, a bucket of soil mixture is poured into the pit, a seedling is placed on the formed tubercle, gently spreading the roots over the surface of the tubercle.

Plentifully watered with water (4-5 liters per bush), after soaking, the roots are covered with the remaining earth. The seedling is positioned so that the root neck is at ground level. The soil is compacted gently, but not too tightly. From above, they mulch with humus or peat, deepening the neck by 3-4 cm.

When planting, mineral fertilizer is also added: either to the soil mixture (superphosphate) or liquid (simultaneously with irrigation).

Tree peony care

Watering

Peonies need abundant watering in the spring, if the soil contains little moisture, and in the period before flowering. Further watering is carried out moderately, as needed.

Do not water plants cold water from a water supply system or a well, water for irrigation must be stored in barrels in advance for its preheating. Watering, especially after a long break, is carried out gradually, in portions, so that sufficient water reaches the roots, and does not spread over the ground.

After flowering, watering is reduced and stopped altogether by August, so that the wood has time to mature before winter.

top dressing

For good flowering, fertilizer must be applied every 12 days. Feeding begins in April, and last time make 12-14 days after the end of flowering. Wood ash and bone meal, as well as mineral fertilizers, are well suited as fertilizers. In used mineral fertilizers phosphorus and potassium components should prevail.

Excess nitrogen fertilizers reduces the resistance of peonies to diseases.

What else is needed for a good growth of peonies

The soil around the peonies is mulched annually with a thick layer of compost or humus, and a bucket of mulch is poured under each bush.

The soil around the bushes within a radius of 50 cm must be weeded from weeds and periodically loosened to a depth of 3-5 cm.

First bloom

Often the first flowers of a tree peony do not reflect all the beauty of their variety, they have more simple form. This is especially evident in terry varieties and varieties with "fantasy" petals. They fully correspond to the characteristics of their variety by 2-3 years of flowering.

The first blooming flower must be carefully removed as soon as it opens, so that the plant accumulates strength for the formation of new flowers. Sometimes a peony in the first flowering gives two buds at once. In this case, you need to remove the top bud before it opens, but only after it picks up color. If removed earlier, there is a risk of damaging the growth point of the shoot. Remove the second flower when it opens.

pruning

Tree peonies tolerate pruning well and quickly grow new shoots.

In early spring, rejuvenating pruning is carried out on tree-like peonies, shortening the shoots to a growth bud. Weak shoots are pruned, leaving 10-20 cm from the ground.

In late spring, if necessary, pruning of shoots frozen in winter is carried out.

When pruning, it must be borne in mind that the flowering of these peonies occurs on the shoots of last year.

Old (more than 10 years old) specimens can be cut off “on a stump” for the purpose of rejuvenation.

In grafted specimens, over time, basal shoots from the stock may form. Such growth must be cut off so that it does not interfere with the development of a tree-like peony.

Transfer

Transplantation of self-rooted peonies is carried out in autumn or winter (in this case, planting pits must be prepared in autumn). Adult well-grown peonies, so that they take root in a new place, are strongly cut off, most of the old shoots are removed.

Preparing for winter

The tree-like peony is a rather frost-resistant plant, even significant frosts are not terrible for it, but damp warm autumn is unfavorable for it. Under such conditions, the peony continues to grow, does not have time to "fall asleep" before the onset of cold weather. Therefore, most often when grown in the middle lane and northwestern regions, the plant needs special preparation for winter. For this you need:

• As mentioned above, in advance, starting in August, stop watering.
• If the end of summer and autumn turned out to be rainy, it would not be superfluous to organize canopies that protect the bushes from excess moisture during this period.
• Digging deep and mulching trunk circles peat or humus (1 bucket of mulch for each bush).
• Pruning: in early October, the leaves of the peony are cut to 2/3 of the length, this contributes to a better maturation of the shoots of the current year and increases the frost resistance of the plant.
• Cover the plants with any covering material folded in several layers. From below, at the root, do not tie the covering material - leave the possibility of air access.

peonies in spring

If, after wintering, frozen buds were noticed on the bushes, there is no need to rush to prune. It is better to wait until the end of May and, if the plant has not recovered, cut off the frozen shoots to the first living bud. Soon such an escape will start to grow.

Reproduction of a tree peony

1. Reproduction by dividing the bush

Own-rooted tree-like peonies aged 5-6 years can be propagated by dividing the bush. The optimal time for this procedure is mid-August-September.

On a delenka suitable for planting, there should be young roots about 10-20 cm long and 2-3 renewal buds, in a healthy planting material these buds are large, bright and shiny.

Places of cuts must be treated with a fungicide and powdered with charcoal powder.

2. Reproduction by layering

Another easy way reproduction - layering. right time for this - May, before flowering.

• They take a developed shoot, make a longitudinal incision 10 cm long on the bark, not too deep so as not to touch the cambium (a layer of young growing cells).
• The incision site is treated with a root.
• They are pinned to the ground with a special bracket or improvised material.
• Sprinkle on top with a layer of soil 8-10 cm thick.
• The rooted place is kept moist.

In the incision zone, by the end of August - the beginning of September, roots should form. It is possible to separate a young plant from the mother plant in a year in August-September, when it takes root well.

As a result, a rooted tree-like peony is obtained, which will develop for a long time before flowering, up to 7 years.

3. Reproduction by grafting on the root of a grassy peony

In the middle lane, vaccination is done in August.

As a rootstock, the lateral part of the root of a grassy peony, left over from division or specially dug out, is taken. Its length is 10-15 cm, the thickness is not less than the thickness of the scion, it is better if the thicknesses are the same. In this case, the vaccination can be done in a rotation and in the butt. If the thickness of the scion is significantly greater - only rotate.

The roots for the stock are dug out 2-3 weeks before vaccination and stored in a cool place.

Cuttings are cut from semi-lignified shoots of the current year. 1-2 buds are left on each cutting. A cut under the lower kidney is made at a distance of 3-4 cm, above the upper one - 2-3 cm. The leaves are removed.

For grafting a spin on the root, first a transverse cut is made, and then a wedge-shaped cut from the middle or on one side, if the root diameter is larger than the cutting.

The stalk is cut into a wedge on both sides, it is advisable to do this under water so that the air does not clog the porous pion tissue. Then it is inserted into the incision, the cambial layers of the cutting and rootstock are combined. From above they are wrapped with a special tape for grafting or electrical tape with the sticky side outward, capturing the transverse section of the root. Additionally, you can coat the graft with garden pitch.

For butt grafting on the handle and bark, a cut is made at a slight angle, the cuts are combined and fastened in the same way.

The cuts on the scion and rootstock are made with a sharp knife so that they are smooth, the layers of the cambium must match when combined.

Grafted plants can be planted in a greenhouse for 3-4 weeks, shaded if necessary. When planting, the graft is left above the soil level. Moisten the soil regularly.

Another way (preferable if possible) is to keep the grafted material for 3-4 weeks in the basement in boxes, lined with sawdust or moss.
After this period, successfully grafted plants can be planted in the ground, placing them in the ground at an angle.

In the southern regions, vaccination can also be done in June. The grafting technology is the same, only most often the stalk is taken with one kidney and the leaf on the stalk is not removed, but cut in half.

The grafted peonies are then planted at an angle in the sand in a shaded greenhouse. Water regularly. Deepen the plant to the kidney. In successful vaccinations, by the fall, the kidney increases in size.

Plants can be left in the greenhouse until spring, or they can be planted in open ground in October, deepening the bud by 2-3 cm. In both cases, it is necessary to cover the plants for the winter with foliage or spruce branches.

4. Reproduction by green cuttings

Reproduction method green cuttings time-consuming, but under all conditions it is quite effective, 60-70% of cuttings take root.

The advantage of this method is a large number of planting material, the ability to do this work every year using existing plants. The disadvantage is laboriousness and a long wait for flowering.

Cuttings are harvested from June to July, when the process of lignification begins. Cutting is done early in the morning.

Two buds are left on each handle, an oblique cut is made under the lower bud at a distance of 1.5-2.5 cm, above the top one - at a distance of 2.5-3 cm. bottom sheet removed, but leave the petiole. Top sheet cut to a third or half.

The cuttings are lowered with their lower ends by 3-5 cm into a solution of heteroauxin or root root, kept from several hours to a day.

They are planted in the shade in a mini-greenhouse in a mixture of peat and sand at an angle to a depth of 4-5 cm, deepening the lower bud. The soil is moistened in a timely manner, the cuttings are sprayed, the leaves are kept constantly wet.

After 1.5 - 2 months, the first roots are formed. After that, the mini-greenhouse is gradually removed, first for a while, accustoming the plants to fresh air, then completely.

For the winter, plantings are covered with tree foliage or spruce branches.

The following spring, rooted cuttings are planted in a school. By autumn, a shoot develops from the lower bud, and a shoot from the upper bud may also appear. The plant can be transplanted to a permanent place in the fall or spring of the following year.

It is possible to root cuttings with one kidney in this way, but such cuttings form too weak roots by autumn and in open field freeze, so they should winter in a cold greenhouse.

5. Propagation by seeds

Reproduction of a tree peony by seeds is possible, but due to the special laboriousness, certain requirements for seeds, low efficiency (seedling yield is only 10%) and a long waiting time for the result, it is hardly suitable for an amateur grower.

Authors of the photo: Yuyu, koryaga113, ngarankina, stelmachuk.arina, RVL, jena2004, ecaterinasnitco (Ekaterina Snytko)

Tree peonies amaze gardeners with their beauty and delicious aroma. For effective fit them in the flower bed, the owner should choose the right suitable variety, to study the intricacies of planting peonies from seeds, the features of dividing bushes, the rules for propagation by cuttings, layering and grafting.

The tree peony is a deciduous shrub that grows to a height of up to two meters. Has straight massive stems light brown, which, unlike most other flowers, do not die off in the fall, but grow and thicken every year, forming a hemispherical bush. The tree-like peony has beautiful openwork leaves and large (12 - 20 cm in diameter) flowers. Depending on the variety, the buds may have different shape and color. All this, coupled with excellent cold resistance, makes the tree peony an excellent garden plant for Russia, and therefore domestic gardeners should know how to properly plant a tree peony.

Varieties of tree peonies

At the heart of all modern varieties of tree peonies are several natural species:

• peony Lemoine,
• yellow peony,
• peony Delaway,
• peony Potanin.

At the same time, these flowers are most actively cultivated in China. Accordingly, all varieties are divided into three main groups:

• Sino-European peonies. These varieties are characterized by massive, heavy flowers that droop to the ground under their own weight.
• Japanese varieties. They have relatively small light buds that seem to hover above the bush.
• Hybrids of Delaway peony and yellow peony. The most popular group of varieties, characterized by yellow flowers.

A variety of shades of petals allows gardeners to decide at their discretion which flowers to plant next to peonies. Among domestic flower growers today, tree-like peonies of such varieties are most widely used:

1. Sisters Qiao. They are loved for massive (up to 16 cm) two-color inflorescences - half of the bud is dark red, half is white-cream.
2. Sapphire. Flowers are up to 18 cm in diameter, have a pale pink color with a dark crimson center.
3. Coral altar. Another bicolor variety. Crowned flowers combine salmon and white. Inflorescence diameter up to 20 cm.
4. Green Jade. Graceful light green buds.

Planting tree peonies

Most amateur flower growers plant tree-like peonies in the form of seedlings. This procedure is carried out only in the early autumn period: the second half of August - the end of September. We will talk about how to plant a tree peony in the spring a little later.

Choosing the right landing site is one of the milestones this process. Tree peonies are very capricious when it comes to sunlight. They absolutely do not like the shade, so be sure that not a single tree or building blocks the sun in the place where the peonies will be planted. It is better from the very beginning to give preference to areas located at a certain elevation, where there is always enough sunlight.

Tree peonies prefer loamy soils, which is why sandy soil it is recommended to dilute with clay, humus, peat and soddy soil. excessive clay soil on the contrary, it should be ennobled with sand and organic fertilizers. Do not neglect the issues of preparing a site for planting peonies, since the life expectancy of plants largely depends on the quality of the soil.

With a low occurrence of groundwater, the hole for planting seedlings should be made in the form of a cone. Its dimensions should be 70 cm in diameter at the surface and 70 cm in total depth. Gravel, broken brick, or sand should be laid at the bottom of the cone with a layer of about 20-30 cm. If planting is carried out in acidic soil, 200-300 g of lime or bone meal should be added to the pit, and only then can the soil be covered. When planting, the roots of the plant are recommended to be watered abundantly so that they straighten. It is possible to finally fill the hole with earth only after the water is completely absorbed into the soil. It is very important that the root collar ends up exactly at the level of the surface. Tree peonies do not tolerate very well when they are planted too deep or vice versa too high. If you have several seedlings, place them at a distance of at least one and a half meters from each other.

Growing a tree peony from seeds

Now consider how to properly plant tree peony seeds. Usually, professional flower growers are engaged in breeding tree peonies from seeds, since this way much more difficult. In addition, the plant will need 5-6 years for the seed to turn into flowering bush, while seedlings, depending on age, can bloom already in the first or second year.

In addition, in order for the seeds of a tree peony to sprout, they require mandatory stratification. Moreover, with more or less long-term storage seeds completely lose their germination. Thus, growing tree peonies by sowing requires much more patience and is not at all guaranteed.

Ripening of fruits this plant falls in September - early October. You can understand that the seeds are ready to be harvested by an ajar seed box. The most viable are large (up to a centimeter in length) seeds that have a shiny smooth surface dark color. Sowing is carried out after three days of drying. Seeds are placed at a depth of 3 cm in loose fertile soil until the first frost. It is better if the soil is moist. In anticipation of winter, it is recommended to cover the sowing place.

Theoretically, some of the seeds can sprout in the spring, but in most cases, a tree peony germinates only in the second or even third year. Precisely in order to guarantee high germination already in the first spring, it is recommended that the seeds be subjected to temperature stratification. To this end, in the fall, the seeds are not added dropwise into open ground, but into a pot or into a box with earth. After the pot / box of seeds has wintered outside, in March it should be taken into the house and held at room temperature. By following these steps, you can guarantee a fairly high germination rate even in the first spring.

An alternative way to improve seed germination is to harvest them unripe and place them in damp sand or peat for 10-12 weeks at room temperature. After that, the seeds should be put in a refrigerator or cellar so that they lie at a temperature of 5-8 degrees for about 3 more months. In May, such seeds can be planted in open ground at a depth of up to 5 cm. Seedlings should hatch before autumn and will grow very slowly. They should be watered very moderately, and 3-4 weeks after planting, you can feed liquid fertilizers. The soil around the shoots is mulched, and for the winter the plants must be thoroughly covered with peat or dry leaves. You can learn more about how to properly plant a tree peony in spring from a special video.

Reproduction of tree peonies

Like most others garden flowers, tree peonies can be propagated either by seeds or seedlings. We have already talked about how this is done. Now let's look at the main ways to get planting material.

Seeds and ready-made seedlings can be bought on the market or in a specialized nursery. This method is so simple that it makes no sense to describe it in detail. It is much more interesting to consider ways to independently obtain new plants. If there is at least minimum experience in floriculture and gardening, you can propagate peonies:

• dividing the bush
• cuttings,
• layering,
• vaccination.

This procedure is a transplant of part of the bush to a new place. Even a whole bush does not tolerate moving to a new place very well, and even a half plant even more so. You should resort to this technique only as a last resort, for example, if you plan to dig anyway old bush and don't value it too much.

To separate the bush, simply stretch its parts to the sides near the root collar. This may require "surgical" intervention. Make sure that the newly formed bush has enough buds and roots. Before planting in a new place, immerse the plant in a clay mash for 20-30 minutes.

For propagation by division, it is best to take bushes aged 5-6 years. Separation is recommended in August.

By the way, a few words about what flowers can be planted next to peonies: after transplantation, peonies feel very bad. It may take several years for them to fully recover. In view of this, you should not plant other massive flowers nearby, which will suck out water and nutrients from a common flower bed, as well as create a shadow.

Propagation by cuttings and layering

For cuttings, choose semi-woody shoots. It is better to cut them from the second half of June. Ready-made cuttings should be stuck into the sand-peat mixture to a depth of 1.5 cm and covered with glass or film to create a greenhouse effect. Cuttings should be regularly watered and sprayed. In the second half of September, rooted shoots are planted in individual pots and stored until spring in greenhouse conditions. The following year, young shoots can be planted in open ground.

The layering method is longer and takes two years. In May, before the bushes begin to bloom, you should choose the most developed shoots and carefully bend them to the ground. At the same time, a small incision is made on the shoots from the side facing the soil, which should be treated with a growth substance. The resulting branch must be dug in with a 10-centimeter layer of soil, and subsequently the soil above the layer should be regularly moistened. By September, roots should appear on the branch; such an escape can already be separated from the bush and planted in open ground in a permanent place.

Propagation of tree peonies by grafting

Grafting is the most reliable and popular method of industrial reproduction of tree peonies. For the same reason, it is recommended to use it in a private garden.

It should be vaccinated on the roots of a grassy peony: in the first days of August, cuttings with two buds are cut from the bushes of a tree-like peony; the lower part of the cutting is turned to the formation of a wedge and tightly inserted into the wedge-shaped groove previously made in the roots of the grassy peony. The junction is tightly wrapped with a film and in this form the grafted peonies are placed in a box filled with wet sawdust.

For a month, the box is stored in a dark place, and then the rooted cuttings are planted in a container filled with fertile soil or a bed in a greenhouse. The grafted peony grows and grows stronger in greenhouse conditions for the next one and a half to two years. Only then can it be planted in open ground.