Terry chrysanthemum. Types and varieties of chrysanthemums: photos, names and descriptions. Harm of chrysanthemum flowers and contraindications

Chrysanthemum flowers are sung in songs, there are many legends about them, but despite all the poetry and sophistication of the image recreated by the poets, this plant is very unpretentious. Chrysanthemums are planted in the garden in almost every area - flowers grown in flower beds delight the eye on the last autumn days and portend the onset of cold weather. For cutting, chrysanthemums are grown in greenhouses, where all conditions are created for the development of powerful flower stalks.

Chrysanthemum plant: photo and description of the flower

Chrysanthemums belong to the Compositae family. This genus includes about 180 species of annual, biennial and perennial herbaceous and shrubby plants. The name comes from the Greek crus antemon, meaning golden flower. Chrysanthemums came to us from China and Japan, the Chinese called them royal flowers, while the Japanese painted them on imperial weapons; Japan regularly hosts a chrysanthemum festival. The Chinese cultivated chrysanthemums already 2500 years ago, but these flowers came to Europe only in 1789, and by 1802 the first 10 varieties were bred. Today, there are more than 650 varieties of chrysanthemums that can be purchased at horticultural centers.

Chrysanthemums have branched thickened rhizomes located at a depth of 25 cm, giving root growth. They develop stolon-like shoots and numerous fibrous roots located in the soil at a depth of up to 30 cm. The shoots are upright, up to 120 cm high, sometimes strongly branched, of varying degrees of strength.

Chrysanthemum flowers deserve special description, collected in inflorescences-baskets, which consist of many individual flowers, developing at the ends of the apical shoots. The inflorescences consist of a disk of tubular bisexual flowers surrounded by female reed, incorrectly called petals. simple flowers have one row of reed flowers, semi-double - several rows, terry varieties may contain up to several hundred single reed flowers. Their shape, size, color, as well as the number on one shoot are very diverse and are largely determined by the characteristics of the variety. The color scheme includes all shades: from boiling white to dark purple.

When describing a chrysanthemum plant, it is impossible not to note the leaves, which give the bush a considerable decorative effect. They are alternate, on petioles, from light to dark green. Shiny or slightly pubescent, they vary greatly in size and degree of dissection.

According to the garden classification, chrysanthemums are divided into several groups. They differ in the shape of the bush and height, as well as in flowering time, in color, doubleness, type and size of inflorescences. Individual specimens of garden chrysanthemums reach a height of 1.5 m, while the rest in their mass do not exceed 35–40 cm. But the agrotechnical features in all are very similar, more precisely, almost identical.

The name "chrysanthemum" itself comes from two Greek words: chrysos - gold and anthemis - flower, which indicates the yellow color of the original species.

Japan is the birthplace of chrysanthemums. In ancient times, the image of a chrysanthemum was considered sacred and only members of the imperial house could wear it on clothes. This flower became the state emblem, its image was placed on national flag, on coins and on the highest Japanese order, which is called: the Order of the Chrysanthemum. In Japan, there is even a festival of chrysanthemums. And in China, the ninth month was even named after the flower. And the Chinese also prepare a delicious dessert from chrysanthemum flowers. This dish looks like a delicate cake, it is liked not only by the Chinese, but also by foreigners coming to the country.

Growing conditions for growing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are not very demanding on the soil, but very demanding on the location. For good growth, development and maximum decorativeness, they need a warm, well-lit place (at least five hours of sun a day). When creating conditions for growing chrysanthemums, do not forget that these plants do not tolerate soaking at all, so prepare good drainage. Plants will respond well to periodic top dressing.

When growing chrysanthemums in the garden, the soil should be loose, moisture-permeable, rich in organic matter, slightly acidic (pH from 5.5 to 7.0). To prepare such soil, fertilize it with compost and dry mullein. On overfertilized soil, plants "fatten" to the detriment of flowering. For breeding chrysanthemums, it is better to add organic matter for them in advance, in the fall, in the form of compost, humus or peat (10 kg per 1 m2).

In addition, for cultivation in open field well-drained soil is vital for chrysanthemums: excessive dampness adversely affects the wintering of plants. To improve soil drainage, add a few buckets of coarse sand to it. It is better to plant chrysanthemums in high beds to avoid stagnant water.

The appearance of the plant can tell you what exactly is missing when growing and caring for chrysanthemums.

  • wilted leaves- insufficient watering.
  • Short flowering period- the plant is hot, at a temperature of 20–25 ° C, the inflorescences quickly bloom and fade.
  • Buds don't open- either the plant was bought with green buds, or it was placed in a poorly lit place.

Even with good care chrysanthemums in the open field can be affected by aphids and red spider mites, with excessively wet wintering, root rot may appear.

The technology of growing chrysanthemums in the garden: planting and caring for a flower in the open field

Chrysanthemum planting material is usually purchased in the form of rooted cuttings. Cuttings are planted in open ground in the second half, and preferably in late May or early June, that is, when the last frosts end.

For ease of care, garden chrysanthemums are planted in such a way that root collar was at ground level.

Planting chrysanthemums in the ground should be carried out according to varieties, marking them with pre-prepared labels. It is better to plant garden chrysanthemums in spring than in autumn. The planting scheme for cut varieties is 30 × 30 cm, and for varieties with spreading bushes, this distance must be increased by 10 cm. Planting and transplanting plants should be carried out with a clod of earth, without shaking it off the roots. Keep seedlings in plastic cups or in plastic bags(if these are large bushes with a clod of earth).

An important point when planting and caring for chrysanthemums in the open field - plants do not like to be disturbed too late, this affects winter hardiness. It's funny that they sell them just at the end of summer and autumn. Maybe this explains the unexpected attacks and disappointed conclusions about fraudulent sellers. Such a sign is given: if there are no vegetative shoots at the base of the bush, then it will not overwinter. Whether they indicate good rooting, or whether the young parts of the bush overwinter better, is unknown. Try planting "chrysey" in the spring.

If you bought planting material in the fall, at the end of September - October, it is better not to leave it in the open field. For wintering these plants, a dry basement with a positive temperature is suitable, where vegetables are stored - dampness in winter period garden chrysanthemums can not stand.

It is best to plant chrysanthemums on a rainy day. And if the weather is sunny and hot - early in the morning or late in the evening, spilling the holes with plenty of water. In each hole, dug with a shovel to a depth of 35–40 cm, they put drainage and earth mixed with biohumus (20:1). They put the plant and cover it with earth. The roots do not need to be deeply buried - they grow parallel to the soil. For large bushes with thin, fragile stems, they put a support. The distance between the bushes during planting is 50 × 50 cm.

Chrysanthemums are usually planted in the ground after May 9th. Immediately after planting the seedlings in the ground, the first pinching is done - the growth point is removed from the plant. The second pinching - breaking out the upper part of the shoot with two or three knots is done approximately 2-3 weeks after planting.

The planted plant usually suffers from the bright spring sun in the first days, so it is necessary to shade it. For this, a covering non-woven material is used, but it must be strengthened so that the leaves do not touch the fabric.

If you bought adult flowering plants (frost-resistant!) In pots, plant them in the ground at the end of summer or early autumn. It is necessary to transplant flowering chrysanthemums from pots into open ground a month and a half before the first matinees hit, so that the roots have time to get stronger. Water them properly so that they do not wither, but you should not fertilize right away, wait until next year.

If follow right technology growing chrysanthemums, in one place without a transplant, plants can exist no more than 2-3 years. In the first month after planting, it is desirable to loosen the soil more often, since during this period there is a very intensive growth of the root system, and, most importantly, underground shoots, due to which the entire bush is formed. Then loosening must be stopped so as not to damage the growing young shoots.

Although chrysanthemums are exceptionally drought tolerant, they require a lot of moisture during their initial growth period. At this time, they should be watered frequently and plentifully - at least three times a week. When the buds are tied and the chrysanthemum blooms, you can apply the so-called "dry watering", that is, shallow, superficially loosen the ground, periodically hilling and unboiling the bushes. This is especially useful when caring for a chrysanthemum flower in rainy or humid weather.

Chrysanthemums love to be mulched. Mulch will prevent fungal pathogens living in the soil from getting onto the plant with splashes during watering and rains. Pine needles are especially good for this purpose, which, among other things, also prevent the growth of weeds.

Shredded pine bark and oat straw are also suitable for mulching chrysanthemums.

Garden orchid care after planting

An important point in successful cultivation chrysanthemum is the correct pinching or shortening of the stems to stimulate the growth of lateral shoots and ensure the splendor of the bush. On relatively large-flowered varieties, if you want larger flowers, you should, on the contrary, remove the side shoots, leaving only a few main shoots with buds.

And one more thing: it is necessary to regularly limit the number of shoots (up to 25-30), plucking out new ones that form in the axils of the leaves - they overload the plant.

Large-flowered chrysanthemums are grown in one stem, less often in 2-3 stems or more, and small-flowered - in the bush, less often - in the standard form. at young plant the first buds will have to be removed so that the still fragile plant does not bloom.

Pinching must be carried out throughout June. it will help the plant to better form a bush and will contribute to more abundant flowering. It should be borne in mind that the interval between the last pinching and the beginning of flowering is approximately 30 days. Although it should be noted that most modern bush hybrids do not need thinning buds.

Many large-flowered chrysanthemums form tall shrubs, some of which can reach over 1 meter, and therefore need support. Use metal pegs connected with wire as a supporting structure, which you can make yourself or buy ready-made in garden centers. For support, you can also use special nets that are fixed around the future bush and reach about 45 cm from the ground. At first it does not look very aesthetically pleasing, but when the bush outgrows the upper edge of the net in height, you will appreciate such nets, as they provide good protection and do not allow the bush to decay.

How to care for chrysanthemums: plant nutrition

Chrysanthemums grow very fast. In a short period, a rather powerful bush is obtained from a small nondescript cutting, which manages to bloom profusely and finish the growing season in the fall. In the process of caring for chrysanthemums, plants need to be fed frequently. Per summer period I spend at least three dressings. The first top dressing should be carried out for the development of the green mass of the bush, that is, even before budding: for 10 liters of water, I dilute 1 liter of liquid mullein and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska. Before feeding chrysanthemums, you need to water the plants well. When the moisture is sufficiently absorbed into the soil, pour a solution under each plant, approximately 1 liter. Do this with every feeding. The first feeding is carried out until mid-June.

The second top dressing is carried out at the beginning of budding: from mid-July to mid-August, depending on the timing of the flowering of the variety. In this case, take 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate, superphosphate for 10 liters of water.

Consumption is the same as for the first feeding - 1 liter per plant. The third top dressing is carried out at the height of flowering: for 10 liters of water, 1 tablespoon of potassium sulfate - 1 liter of solution for the plant. Special attention when root dressing, you need to pay attention to mineral fertilizers did not fall on the leaves of chrysanthemums, as mineral fertilizers cause them to burn. I usually do all the top dressing in the early morning or after sunset. To increase the number of flower buds, as well as for their friendly flowering, the plants are sprayed before they begin to swell 1-2 times with the Bud growth regulator: 10 g per 10 liters of water, spending 1 liter of solution per 10-15 bushes.

Wintering chrysanthemums in the ground and caring for plants in winter

There are varieties that tolerate winter well in the ground. These include the Korean chrysanthemum. If the chrysanthemum bushes are located in a dry place, then they will not freeze out, if in a damp lowland, then they will freeze out.

After the first autumn frosts, when all the greenery has already withered, the chrysanthemums remaining in the ground must be cut off. Pruning for wintering chrysanthemums in the ground can be high (in this case, the remains of old shoots will have to be removed in the spring) or low, to the very root.

There are winters with a prolonged thaw and a sharp cold snap, which also poses a threat to our plants. And yet, if you decide to leave the plants in the ground, remember a few rules. In no case should leaves be used as a warming material - it will be damp under them and the chrysanthemums will dry out; sawdust - a source of pathogenic fungi; peat is moisture-absorbing, freezes, and thaws for a long time in spring.

Chrysanthemum bushes are spudded or sprinkled with ordinary earth, then covered with boxes, and 1-2 layers of any covering material are thrown on top. In order to save money, they use material that has served its age. The reliability of such simple method tested by time.

Another option for caring for chrysanthemums in winter is possible: when stable frosty weather sets in, the bushes are covered with spruce branches. If it is not there, you can throw plants with any cut branches, and on top of them - foliage. However, the shelter should not be too dense and heavy. Otherwise, the plants will simply rot. In any case, before shelter, the bushes should be hilled with soil or limed to a neutral reaction (pH 6.5–7) peat mixed with sand.

After the winter, as soon as the chrysanthemums begin to grow, it is necessary to remove all last year's remnants of the stems, and it is advisable to unscrew the central dead shoot from the ground, since its growth does not resume. The growth of the bush occurs due to underground side shoots. Once every 3 years, the bush must be divided.

In chrysanthemums that do not tolerate wintering well, the stems are cut in October, leaving about 15–20 cm, the plants are dug up and partially retain the earth. Leaves are removed, moved to boxes or bowls and placed in a room with a temperature of 4–6 degrees, preferably light, and when sprouts appear, we begin to water moderately.

Such wintering should be arranged for heat-loving cut terry large-flowered late varieties.

Reproduction and cultivation of chrysanthemums from cuttings, seeds and division of the bush

Reproduction in the cultivation of chrysanthemums is carried out by seeds, cuttings or division of bushes. It depends on the variety of chrysanthemums.

As a rule, nurseries sell plants propagated by cuttings, since most varieties of chrysanthemums are hybrids that are not so easy to grow from seeds. However, if you like surprises, sow the seeds of hybrids - and get the richest color spectrum and variety of shapes. Sowing needs to be done in early spring in boxes with moist soil. Just in no case sprinkle the seeds with earth: for the seeds to germinate, they need light. Shoots appear in about a week. When the seedlings grow up, they dive into pots and planted in the ground at the end of May. In this case, flowering occurs at the end of June.

Sowing directly into the ground is carried out in May, in holes of 3-4 pieces at a distance of 25 cm. In this case, flowering will be in early August.

To propagate chrysanthemums by division, in the spring you should dig up a bush, separate a part along with the roots and transplant. Mature chrysanthemum bushes need to be divided every 3 years. If this is neglected, then the flowering will not be so lush and strong.

In the spring, when last year's bushes grow back after wintering, they dig them up, pour soil from the roots (if the soil is sandy) or wash it off with water. Then each sprout is separated so that it has independent roots. Green sprouts of chrysanthemums tend to form roots. For this, it is necessary that the soil in which the green cuttings without roots are planted is constantly moist until the sprouts are accepted. So if you don't have much planting material, you can plant all the sprouts from the bush, even those that have broken off or remained without roots.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums by cuttings (with video)

It has been noticed that plants grown from cuttings bloom much earlier, have a stronger root system, and are less susceptible to diseases. When propagating chrysanthemums, cuttings take root very easily. Even if you break off a side shoot from a bouquet of chrysanthemums standing in the water and plant it in the soil, it will soon give new leaves.

The advantage of growing chrysanthemums from cuttings is that 30-40 bushes can be grown from one mother bush. Mother plants are selected strictly according to varieties, stems are cut at a level of 10-15 cm from the ground. For quick healing of wounds obtained when digging up a plant and pruning shoots, containers with mother liquors are kept in a warm room for 10–12 days, observing moderate watering. You can store uterine bushes by digging in a cold cellar. Cut chrysanthemums can also be left in pots in cool rooms. It is necessary to water a little, so that the plants do not fade.

In early March, growth begins to grow. Cuttings for planting are taken only from the apical offspring emerging from the ground from the roots (8–10 centimeters). Take cuttings from shoots on old stems should not be.

Disposable cups with a volume of 0.3-0.5 liters. The soil is taken in equal proportions: peat, soddy soil, sand, fill the container with the substrate, moisten, plant the cuttings to a depth of 1–1.5 cm. Put the glass in a plastic bag, tying it on top, thereby creating a greenhouse effect inside the bag. The temperature during the rooting period is maintained within 18-20 degrees. If the chrysanthemum stretches out in low light, then you need to pinch it. By the way, if you didn’t manage to plant the cuttings right away, don’t worry: at a low temperature they can be stored for 6-8 weeks without losing their suitability for rooting.

After rooting (after 18-20 days), the plastic bag is removed, the young plants are planted in small pots and placed in a cooler, well-ventilated room.

At the beginning of May, rooted cuttings can be planted in a greenhouse or under a film shelter, and at the end of the month, as soon as the danger has passed spring frosts, - in open ground. You can not leave the cuttings in the sand for a long time - they quickly become woody, which subsequently affects the decorativeness of the plants.

You can cut chrysanthemum not only in early spring, but also in summer. In this case, young side shoots are used, which are planted in the same way as shoots. There is one “but” here - the summer stalk may not bloom in the first year and it is advisable to dig it out for the winter.

At the beginning of the growth of shoots, both offspring and root shoots, cuttings are started, which are carried out from February to early May. Large-flowered chrysanthemums finish cuttings no later than April 15–20.

Plants propagated in April and June produce first-class flowers without pinching. They are planted in soil with nutrient soil with a layer of 3-4 cm, consisting of humus in half with peat chips, on top of which 2 cm of coarse-grained river sand or a mixture of sand and peat chips in a ratio of 4: 1 is poured.

The video of cuttings of chrysanthemums shows how these flowers reproduce:

Measures to combat diseases and pests of chrysanthemums

Diseases of chrysanthemums are mainly associated with care errors: insufficient watering or too high air temperature in which the plant is contained. Of the pests, chrysanthemums are affected and, as well as slugs.

Against slugs, the drug is laid out in the form of Metaldehyde granules (30 g per 10 sq. M).

First of all, before cutting, I treat each plant with an anti-aphid preparation. Usually the drug "Spark" is used (1 tablet per 10 liters of water), each bush is sprayed with a solution. In most cases, re-treatment is not required, only in very hot summers aphids cause more trouble. With a slight lesion, the plant is washed with soapy water to kill aphids. The treatment should be repeated every 7-10 days.

Nice results gives the treatment of plants with pyrethrum. The solution is prepared as follows: 200 g of pyrethrum powder is infused in 10 liters of water for 12 hours, then 50 ml of infusion is taken, diluted in 10 liters of water and 50 g of soap are added.

Very effective in the fight against aphids, spider mite and other pests water extract of garlic. Take 50 g of garlic, crush in a mortar and pour a glass cold water. After 15–20 minutes, strain the mass and dilute with water, bringing the volume to 1 liter. This solution should be taken 1.5 cups per bucket of water and in the evening or in cloudy weather, wash the plants. You can treat the plant with an insecticide.

Chrysanthemum also suffers from downy mildew and gray mold. Against these fungal diseases, plants are sprayed with Topaz (4 ml per 10 liters of water), 1 liter per 10 square meters is consumed. m. The nematode causes the most trouble to the chrysanthemum, a sign of which is the blackening of the lower leaves. When this disease is detected, the affected plants are dug up and burned. At this place, the chrysanthemum is not planted for at least 3 years. Chemical methods of nematode control are not very effective.

Among chrysanthemum diseases, fungal diseases pose the greatest danger, for example, black spot, white spot (mildew), as well as rust fungi, stem rot, root rot, verticillium, etc. These diseases are especially pronounced when growing conditions are violated - on heavy soils and with excessive their hydration, high humidity air and poor ventilation, low temperatures etc.

The fight against bacterial diseases presents serious difficulties. Usually, recommendations come down to the destruction of the affected plant and the harsh disinfection of the place where it grew.

Also, cut off dry leaves at the bottom of the bush and collect fallen ones. This is done to prevent disease.

Chrysanthemums in landscape design

autumn flowering plants small, so chrysanthemums become a very attractive and interesting culture. Moreover, with their openwork foliage, variety of colors, they look great in flower beds, borders, borders, feel good in container plantings and pots. In the cut, they last from 20 to 30 days. have a lot different varieties domestic and foreign selection. For growing in middle lane in the European part of Russia, preference should be given to Finnish, German, English, Dutch and local varieties; French and Chinese are better used in the south.

AT landscape design spray chrysanthemums look great in mix borders, providing bright horizontal or spherical patches of color. Plantings from chrysanthemums alone or from chrysanthemums and their close relatives from the Asteraceae family look great: spray asters and vernias. Chrysanthemum bushes can also be used in solitary (single) plantings, for example, in the middle of a small lawn. Low chrysanthemums will create a delightful border if planted, for example, along a garden path.

Cut chrysanthemums can stand for a long time in clean water, filling the room with an exquisite, slightly bitter aroma. And dried indoor chrysanthemums will be a great addition to a winter composition of dried flowers and aromatic potpourri.

Traditional partners of chrysanthemums, in addition to those mentioned, are other perennials that bloom at the end of the season: delphiniums, echinacea, rudbeckia, sedum, dahlias, Japanese anemones and elegant herbs. Chrysanthemums look charming against the background of leaves of trees and shrubs turning yellow and purple in autumn.

Chrysanthemums are perfect for a flower garden landscape style. Autumn-blooming annual ornamental sage with blue flowers looks great next to yellow and bronze chrysanthemums. Some varieties of salvia can be recommended, such as Rosebud with soft pink flowers and all varieties with red flowers that perfectly complement red chrysanthemums. Pointed ears of salvia add variety to the rounded outlines of chrysanthemums. Fiesta peppers with small bright orange pods look great next to chrysanthemums. And tall chrysanthemums are also suitable ornamental grass, for example miscanthus Morning Light: its leaves are green, and panicles are bronze in color.

Chrysanthemums can be planted next to brightly colored and variegated plants, such as the sun-loving coleus, as well as next to marigolds and cosmea - because, like chrysanthemums, they bloom until frost.

Chrysanthemums look spectacular in group plantings of some chrysanthemums. Also beautiful are chrysanthemums growing under deciduous trees and ornamental shrubs.

Conditions for forcing chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums lend themselves perfectly to forcing (forcing is a technique by which a plant comes out of dormancy, begins to grow and blooms at an unusual time for it).

The formation of flowers in this plant depends on the duration of the light period.

Experts found that the bookmark flower buds in the inflorescence of chrysanthemum occurs in two stages. First, with a day length of no more than 14.5 hours, a receptacle is formed. The longer this period, the larger it becomes and the larger the diameter of the basket inflorescence. Then the chrysanthemum flowers begin to form. This process proceeds most intensively when the day length is less than 13.5 hours.

Sufficiently high-quality cutting of chrysanthemums can be obtained if you immediately set the day length for plants to 10 hours. Different varieties chrysanthemums have a different reaction to the duration of lighting, and therefore they bloom in different ways: after 6–15 weeks from the beginning of a short day.

Particularly suitable for forcing chrysanthemums from the Branchy group.

Most cut chrysanthemums require 2-4 weeks of growth after planting with a long day (over 14.5 hours) to develop required amount leaves and internodes. Then 6-12 weeks the growth of chrysanthemums takes place with a short day (less than 13 hours).

If you follow these conditions for keeping the plant, then the chrysanthemum will bloom by any desired date - for a birthday, for New Year, by March 8, by September 1!

The technology of growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse for cutting

The popularity of chrysanthemums is explained not only by high decorative qualities and excellent preservation in cutting (more than 3 weeks), but also by biological features that allow it to be grown continuously in industrial conditions, receiving three crops per year from one area.

Growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse can be done in three ways, depending on the purpose of their purpose and capabilities at a given time.

The first- when rooted cuttings are planted in boxes or 9 cm pots, and at the end of spring frosts they are transferred to open ground, after flowering in autumn, the plants are transplanted into 15–21 cm pots and transferred to the greenhouse, where they bloom.

Second- when rooted cuttings are planted first in 9-centimeter pots, then in 13-, and then in 15-centimeter ones, and then transferred to a film greenhouse, bypassing open ground.

Thirdfast track cultivation, when 2 flowering per year are obtained from the same area. This method requires special preparation of mother liquors.

Year-round flowering is provided by the accelerated culture of chrysanthemums, when 4–4.5 months pass from cuttings to flowering instead of 8–9 with conventional culture.

The technology of growing chrysanthemums in a greenhouse under managed cultivation includes detailed planning all stages of production - from the choice of variety to the sale of products. It is based on the photoperiodic response of plants and makes it possible to cut at any time of the year by a certain date (up to 3 times a year). In the conditions of the Chernozem region, it is effective to obtain flowering chrysanthemums from the end of August to the 1st decade of May. Choosing the right varieties according to the timing of flowering and planting in optimal timing, flower growers receive cut products from August to November and from late April to early May, without resorting to light culture.

However, it is more important to have products from December to April, when the demand for flowers is especially high. This is possible only when certain optimal conditions for the accelerated development of plants are created.

For the accelerated cultivation of chrysanthemums in a greenhouse for cutting, strict observance of the biological natural requirements of plants is necessary: ​​during the growth period, ensuring a long day (over 14 hours) and high temperature(16–18 °C) and humidity (70–80%), during the budding period - a decrease in temperature (up to 10 °C) and a short day (10–11 a.m.), in the summer period – shading and cooling (up to 18– 22 °C), in autumn-winter - heating (up to 16–18 °C) and illumination up to 4000 lux.

The temperature regime significantly affects the accumulation of vegetative mass and the formation of generative organs. It is extremely important to maintain a night temperature of 16–20 ° C, since only at night and only at this temperature do new internodes and leaves form. When buds appear on the plants, the temperature is reduced within three weeks by 6 ° C - up to 10 ° C.

There are varieties that are sensitive to temperature regime, and its decrease delays the beginning of flowering in them by 2–3 weeks and worsens the quality of inflorescences. And in the warm summer months, when it is almost impossible to maintain a certain temperature, varieties that are most resistant to elevated temperatures should be selected. It:

Resident,

hoeks Bronse,

Bonnie Jean and etc.

Varieties with dark color of inflorescences ( Parade, Marilor etc.) burn out faster.

In winter, the greenhouse should have more natural light due to well-washed glass, painting metal structures in White color, snow removal from the roof. In order to prolong vegetative growth with daylight hours of less than 14 hours (from the 2nd half of August to mid-March), to obtain a peduncle length of 35–40 cm and prevent bud formation, additional irradiation is required for 3–5 weeks with a specific power of 75–160 W /m2. Additional illumination is most often carried out with mercury lamps of the DRLF type, placing them at a height of 1.5 meters of plants.

And how to grow chrysanthemums in a greenhouse in the spring and summer, when plants need a short day? At this time, black polyethylene is used, which is stretched over a special frame over the plants.

With a year-round culture, the greenhouse is shaded from mid-March to the end of September 6 times a week from 18 to 8 hours, before the buds start to color. In the summer, 8–9 o’clock in the afternoon is enough, and from the second half of August optimal length days are increased to 11-12 hours. After the formation of buds, to obtain more double inflorescences, the plants are transferred to a long day, and the temperature during this period is maintained at 10 ° C.

During the period of vegetative growth, the soil should be constantly moist (60–65% of total moisture), and during the budding phase, the frequency of irrigation is halved.

Top dressing must be combined with watering and subsequent loosening. It is necessary to feed the plants with fertilizers 10-12 days after planting. The soil, both for potting and soil culture, should consist of equal amounts of humus and peat.

The application rates of nutrients depend on the phase of plant development. The interval between top dressing during the period of growth and budding is 7-10 days. During the period of complete dissolution of the inflorescences, they can be stopped, but then resumed after the flowering of the plants.

With the programmed cultivation of chrysanthemums, the productivity of the bushes largely depends on the concentration of CO2 in the greenhouse. Chrysanthemums should be fed with CO2 only at an air temperature above 15-16 ° C and sufficient illumination, bringing its concentration to 0.15%.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums: photos, names and descriptions

Vegetable chrysanthemum is an annual plant of the Asteraceae family.

Of its four species, the crowned and multi-leaved are the most common. This type of chrysanthemum has a powerful, widely branched root. Stem 1 m high, powerful, fleshy, highly branched. The leaves are repeatedly pinnate, thinly divided, narrow, dark green or with wide lobes, pale green. The flowers are large, with white and yellow petals. Inflorescences - single baskets. The duration of flowering is 1.5–2 months.

It is drought tolerant and photophilous plant, grows well in various conditions. Narrow-leaved forms thrive in cold climates. Vegetable chrysanthemum prefers unshaded areas with fertile soils, medium in texture.

Chrysanthemum alpineChrysanthemum alpinum = Leucanthenum alpina.

The name of this type of chrysanthemum is due to the conditions of its growth: under natural conditions, these plants are found in the alpine zone of European mountain systems, where there is little or no limestone. undersized view, grows up to 10–15 cm. The leaves are pinnately dissected, collected in a basal rosette. Their upper side is dark green, the lower side is gray-green. Erect, unbranched stems bear single baskets 2–4 cm in diameter. It blooms in July-August. It grows on rocky spaces also in the subalpine zone. As in nature, in rock gardens it needs acidic soil and shady place.

Chrysanthemum arcticChrysanthemum arcticum = Dendranthema arcticum.

It grows in Northern Europe, North America and North Asia. One of the shortest. Its stems are creeping, the leaves are deeply dissected. lower leaves petiolate. The receptacle of large baskets is yellow, reed flowers are white. It blooms in October - November, reaching 30 cm in height, therefore it looks only in spacious rock gardens or in natural areas of the garden.

As you can see in the photo, this type of chrysanthemum, growing, forms loose, decorative dark green carpets:

Beautiful and often grown is its variety "Rosea" with pink reed flowers.

When crossing an arctic chrysanthemum with a chrysanthemum Weirich obtained Siberian chrysanthemum.

Chrysanthemum "Tricolor Daisy"Chrysanthemum cartinatum served as the basis for breeding various dwarf and low, up to 60 cm, varieties.

Chrysanthemums ( lat. Chrysanthemum)- genus of annuals and perennials herbaceous plants families Asteraceae (Asteraceae), or Asteraceae (Compositae). Plants are close to the genera Yarrow and Tansy, where many types of chrysanthemums often move.

The birthplace of chrysanthemums is the countries of the temperate and northern zones of the Earth, but the largest number of plants still grow in Asia, Europe and Africa.

The name of the genus comes from the Greek. "χρῡσανθής" (golden), formed from the two words "chrysos" (gold) and "anthemis" (flower), and is explained by the fact that the plants are characterized by the yellow color of the inflorescence.

Chrysanthemums grow mainly in the form of branched shrubs, less often - in the form of herbaceous plants. The height of the bushes is from 50 cm to 1.5 m. The leaves are arranged in the next order, simple, entire, serrated, notched or dissected, different in size and shape, pubescent and not, mostly light green. The flowers are small, collected in a basket, in some species large, consisting, as a rule, of median tubular yellow flowers and reed marginal flowers, variously colored and usually arranged in a single row. Many hybrid varieties they are arranged in many rows and form the so-called "terry" inflorescence. Shoots - bare / or pubescent. The fruit is a seed

The culture of decorative garden chrysanthemums has a thousand-year history. In China, where most of the chrysanthemums come from, garden molds began to breed as early as 551 BC. e. Then chrysanthemums were brought to Japan, where they became the national flower. Plants came to Europe in the 17th century, to Russia - in the middle of the 19th century.

Some types of chrysanthemums can be successfully grown in the conditions of CIS countries in the open air, others - only in greenhouses, but all of them are valued by flower growers for the brightness of colors, long flowering, ease of reproduction.

Many types of chrysanthemum have long been used in ornamental gardening. In China, India, Korea and other Asian countries, stems, leaves and inflorescences are eaten as vegetables. Chrysanthemums are widely used in Chinese medicine.

The chrysanthemum is traditionally depicted on coins and the state emblem of Japan, one of the country's highest awards is the Order of the Chrysanthemum. Also, the 16-petal yellow chrysanthemum is depicted on the officially adopted imperial seal of Japan in 1889.

The holiday of chrysanthemums in the country of the Sun is a special ritual: when performing it, one must admire every shade of inflorescences, while it is necessary to think deeply about the path traveled and the meaning of life.

Ancient Japanese poets sang chrysanthemum in their poems. The "golden flower" did not go unnoticed by Russian poets either. For almost a hundred years, the old sad romance by Nikolai Kharito “The chrysanthemums in the garden have faded a long time ago ...” (1910) has been heard.

There are often exceptionally compact chrysanthemums on the market, but keep in mind that these are most likely plants treated with special growth retardants, so cuttings from them can grow into much larger plants.

The genus Chrysanthemum includes about 150 species. annual plants, which, according to the structure of the flower, are divided into small-colored and large-flowered.

Some aromatic plants belong to the genus Chrysanthemum, such as "Saint Peter's Grass" (Chrysanthemum balsamita), whose leaves have a minty smell, or Arquebus (Chrysanthemum vulgare var. crispum) with an intense spicy aroma, used in many bitters and herbal liqueurs.

For indoor floriculture select heat-loving small-flowered and undersized varieties. The choice of varieties is very large. Since chrysanthemums were previously highly valued because of their decorative properties, long-term selection work was carried out, thanks to which the color of chrysanthemum flowers, depending on the variety, began to vary greatly, and the number of species, groups and varieties themselves increased significantly.

Types of chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum crowned , or chrysanthemum vegetable , or lettuce chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum coronarium) . Homeland - North America. Introduced, bred in many varieties and forms.

The stem is erect, simple or slightly branched in the upper half, glabrous, 25-70 cm high. The root is short, tap-root. Basal leaves quickly dying. Medium leaves up to 8-10 cm long, sessile, oblong or oblong-obovate in outline. top leaves smaller and less dissected. Baskets solitary or in the amount of 2-8 on leafy lateral branches, usually not forming a shield. Corollas of reed flowers are yellow, different shades. Achenes 2.8-4 mm long, 2-3.5 mm wide.

Leaves and young shoots taste like celery and are used as food. Young inflorescences are also of nutritional value. Used as an ornamental plant.

. This plant grows in the Alpine zones of the European mountain systems. Alpine chrysanthemum - perennial undersized plant up to 10-15 cm. The leaves are pinnately dissected, collected in a basal rosette. Their upper side is dark green, the lower side is gray-green. Erect, non-branching stems bear single baskets 2-4 cm in diameter. Flowering in July-August.

Alpine chrysanthemum with silvery-gray leaves, covered in summer with delicate inflorescences similar to those of daisies, ideal for alpine slides. One of the hardy varieties with single or double baskets grows well in borders, beds or pots.

Chrysanthemum keeled , or "tricolor daisy" (Chrysanthemum carinatum) . Synonym: Glebionis keeled (Glebionis carinata). The plant is native to Northwest Africa. This type of chrysanthemum is an annual, densely branched, erect, 20-70 cm tall, almost hairless plant with a fleshy stem. The leaves are slightly fleshy, twice pinnatipartite, on petioles. Inflorescences - baskets, often simple, less often semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5-7 cm in diameter, single or collected 2-10 on leafy lateral branches, do not form a complex, corymbose inflorescence, bloom at different times. Reed flowers are white, yellow with a whitish or reddish limb, rarely one-color, yellow or white; tubular - dark red. Blooms profusely from late June to September.

Various dwarf or relatively low (from 30 to 60 cm) varieties have been bred from the keeled chrysanthemum.

Shrub chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum frutescens) . Synonym: Shrub Argyranthemum (Argyranthemum frutescens) . Homeland - Canary Islands. evergreen shrub up to 1m high. Shoots erect, branched, thin, woody at the base. Leaves are many times divided. Stipules with irregular lobes. Inflorescences - baskets, often simple, less often semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5 cm in diameter, single or collected 2-10 on leafy lateral branches. Tubular flowers are yellow, reed white, yellow or pink.

Grows well in mild climates and outdoors; its white baskets with a yellow center, similar to a classic meadow chamomile, alternately bloom almost all year round. In areas with cold climates, it can be grown in containers, harvested for the winter.

Chrysanthemum mulberry , or Chinese chrysanthemum (Chrysanthemum x morifolium) - chrysanthemum of hybrid origin. Perennial undersized plant 30-130 cm tall, shoots are strong, erect or ascending, woody at the base with age. The leaves are slightly fleshy, lanceolate, oval-lobed or oval, up to 7 cm long, and are fragrant. The lobes are solid, coarsely toothed, their lower surface is covered with gray felt pubescence. Inflorescences - baskets, simple, semi-double or double, fragrant, rather large, 5-7 cm in diameter, single or collected 2-10 on leafy lateral branches. Reed, called petals, have a length greater than the disk, various in color. The inner (tubular) flowers are yellow.

- types of chrysanthemums of hybrid origin. Varieties of this species differ in flowering time, bush height, structure and size of inflorescences, color of reed and tubular flowers. These species grow well outdoors.

Flowers, depending on the variety, reach sizes in diameter up to 15 cm or more. Shrub height from 30 cm to 1 m.

Varieties of hybrid Korean chrysanthemums are more resistant to adverse environmental factors, pests and pathogens. Them distinguishing feature- the ability to abundant and long flowering, high decorative effect.

Classification of Korean chrysanthemums:

Inflorescence size:
- small-flowered - inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter;

- large-flowered - inflorescences - over 10 cm in diameter.

By type of inflorescence:
- single-row and two-row - marginal reed flowers are located in 1-2 rows, numerous tubular - in the center

- semi-double - with three or more rows of marginal reed flowers;

- anemone - with one or more rows of marginal reed flowers;

- pompon - inflorescences 2-3 cm in diameter, from numerous reed flowers;

- terry - inflorescences of numerous reed flowers of various shapes and sizes, in the center a small number of tubular ones.

By height distinguish:
- undersized (curb) - plant height up to 30 cm. For undersized chrysanthemums, early term flowering, dense spherical bush, a few root shoots.

- medium-sized - plant height is from 30 to 50 cm. Among the chrysanthemums of this group, there are plants of completely different colors with non-double, semi-double and double inflorescences. All plants belonging to the medium-sized group can be used in group plantings, in flower beds or uniform curtains. Unlike border chrysanthemums, many varieties from this group are used not only in decorative plantings but also for cutting.

- tall - plant height from 50 cm to 1 m. Plants of the group are characterized by a large, well-developed bush, the latest flowering and larger size inflorescences.

Popular varieties of Korean chrysanthemum

‘Alyonushka’- pink chrysanthemums with simple "chamomile" inflorescences. Plant height - up to 50 cm.
‘Altgold’- dark yellow chrysanthemums with inflorescences with a diameter of about 5 cm. Plant height - up to 60 cm.
'Snow White'- plant up to 70 cm high. Terry white chrysanthemum, a flower up to 7 cm in diameter. It blooms in autumn.
‘Bacon’- red chrysanthemum up to 80 cm high. Terry inflorescences reach 6 cm in diameter. Blooms in October.
‘Evening lights’- spectacular red chrysanthemums with a yellow ring around the center of the inflorescence. Inflorescences simple, chamomile.
‘Gebe’- ‘chamomile’ chrysanthemum with a single-row inflorescence up to 6 cm in diameter.
‘Malchish-Kibalchish’- chrysanthemum is undersized, less than 30 cm high. Inflorescences are pink, simple in shape. Blooms profusely in August. Inflorescence diameter up to 7 cm.
‘Orange sunset’- Terry chrysanthemum orange with inflorescences up to 10 cm in diameter. Plant up to 75 cm high.
'First snow'- compact white chrysanthemums up to 35 cm high. Semi-double inflorescences up to 5 cm in diameter. Blooms for a month in August-September.
‘Umka’- pompon chrysanthemum with inflorescences up to 7 cm in diameter. Plant height - 80-100 cm. The color of chrysanthemum ‘Umka’ flowers changes from snow-white to pinkish.

- grown mainly in closed ground, bloom in late autumn or early winter, are used for cutting.

Popular varieties:

'Aurora'. Inflorescences are orange, 8-10 cm in diameter, flat. Plant height - 70-80 cm. The leaves are dark green, medium in size. Flowering time - September - October.
‘Altgold’. Inflorescences densely double golden yellow, 5-7 cm in diameter, flat shape. Plant height - 45-60 cm. The leaves are dark green, small. Flowering time - end of August - October.

‘Wally Roof’. Terry inflorescences, pink-lilac, flat shape, 6-8 cm in diameter. Flowering time - the second half of September - October. ‘Primzvara’ Inflorescences are light pink, 7-10 cm in diameter, hemispherical in shape. Plant height - 70-90 cm. The leaves are dark green, medium. Flowering time - September - October.
‘Snow Elf’. Inflorescences are pure white, densely double, pompon. 5-7 cm in diameter. Plant height - 50-70 cm. Flowering period - September - October.

These species include all the shades characteristic of chrysanthemums. There are also bicolor varieties. Depending on the variety and age, one bush can have from several tens to several hundred inflorescences.

- very tall (up to one and a half meters tall) flowering shrub. Umbrella inflorescences, reed flowers are white, tubular - bright yellow. Chrysanthemums of this species bloom in September. This is a perennial chrysanthemum.

- an annual chrysanthemum with an erect stem up to 60 cm high and oblong whole leaves without petioles. There are varieties with pinnately lobed leaves. Inflorescences, as a rule, are painted in bright yellow tones. Blooms from June to September.

– annual undersized shrub with numerous erect stems up to 23 cm high. The shape of the fleshy leaves may be different. Inflorescences of bright yellow color reach 3 cm in diameter. Differs in plentiful and long blossoming.

Lighting. Chrysanthemums prefer bright diffused light; plants shade from the direct midday sun. Morning and evening sun rays can be beneficial for plants.
Appropriate place for growing chrysanthemums - at the windows of the western and eastern directions. Plants grow well and bloom profusely near the southern windows. But in this case, the plants are provided with shading from midday sun rays. At the windows of the northern direction, plants may not have enough light for normal vegetation.

Temperature. It is recommended to keep the plants outdoors in the summer, in a place protected from midday sunlight. Plants can be kept there until frost. Indoors, it is desirable to give the plants a cool place, about 15 ° C, with access fresh air. Too warm content and stuffiness lead to rapid growth and poor flowering.

Watering. Plants are watered during the period of active vegetation abundantly, with soft settled water, as the top layer of the substrate dries up. It is impossible to allow the earthen coma to dry out - this leads to the fall of leaves and buds. With a cool content in the room, watering is carried out carefully to prevent waterlogging of the earthen clod. After flowering and pruning, the plant is watered with a cool winter content, only slightly wetting the soil.

Spraying. Plants respond well to spraying in the morning and evening with soft settled water during the active growing season.

Fertilizer. Chrysanthemums are fed weekly, during the active growing season, with a complex flower fertilizer.

Growing features. Chrysanthemum is a short-day plant that responds well to lower night temperatures. The flowering of chrysanthemums is plentiful, it can last from late summer to late autumn. To make the chrysanthemum bush more compact, it is recommended to pinch it to increase bushiness due to the growth of side shoots. If you want to get larger flowers, you can pluck the buds, leaving only a few on the bush.

Transfer. When the plant has faded, it should be cut off near the ground and placed in a cool room with a temperature of about 3-5 ° C. In March, the plants are transplanted and exposed to a bright, cool (15-18 ° C) room. The substrate for the plant is taken nutritious, loose, for example, such: soddy land (1 hour), humus (1 hour), peat (1 hour), sand (0.2 hours). At the bottom of the container intended for the plant, provide good drainage.

Feeding after transplantation begins in two weeks. As new shoots grow, pinching can be done to increase bushiness. If you do not pinch in time, the plants are strongly stretched. At the end of spring frosts, it is recommended to expose the pot with the plant to fresh air.

Reproduction. Chrysanthemums are propagated by seeds, cuttings.

Reproduction by seeds. For early flowering, seeds are sown in March in common containers. As the seedlings grow, they dive into pots. The substrate for planting is taken loose, nutritious.

Propagation by cuttings. Chrysanthemums are successfully propagated by cuttings. Cuttings are taken from strong young shoots. Cut the cuttings carefully, under the leaf node, with a sharp tool. You can plant in various containers, pots with a diameter of 7-9 cm are suitable. For rooting, they take a peat-humus mixture, which is sprinkled on top with a layer of sand about 2 cm thick. It can be rooted in clean sand. Under the conditions of a mini-greenhouse, cuttings take root within three weeks, as they grow, they are transferred to large containers. Rooted plants are fed weekly with complex flower fertilizer. Grown plants can be planted together in containers and pots. When planting, try to make the intervals between plants equal so that the feeding area of ​​individual plant specimens is approximately equal.

Possible difficulties

The plant is susceptible to fungal diseases ( powdery mildew, gray mold, root rot, etc.) arising from improper growing conditions. When affected by nematodes or viruses, leading to deformation of the stems and discoloration of the leaves, it is better to remove the plant.

The leaves of the plant are pale, sluggish. This may indicate an excess of sunlight. It also occurs if watering is too limited.

If the room is too warm the plant grows, can shed some of the leaves and buds.

Damaged

Chrysanthemums are able to effectively clean the indoor air, because. have bactericidal properties .

In Chinese folk medicine chrysanthemum is used treatment plant: its leaves are prescribed for migraines, and dried flowers - to improve appetite. In many countries, flowers and leaves of chrysanthemums were used to treat eye diseases, malaria, alcoholism, stomach diseases, and to prevent cardiovascular diseases.

In Asian countries, shoots, leaves and especially inflorescences are eaten as vegetables and a delicious dessert. A popular food species in China is the crowned chrysanthemum, known there as "Tonghao".

AT last years potted (indoor) culture of chrysanthemums became widespread everywhere. Chrysanthemums decorate the house and garden and give them grace of form, and in Japan they are given special gardens.

Chrysanthemum in the East is considered a sign of supreme power and a symbol of splendor. Her stylized image can be seen on the coat of arms of the Imperial House of Japan. The Japanese revere this flower no less than sakura, because the long-blooming chrysanthemum symbolizes deep feelings, health and longevity.

In the East, it is also believed that if you cover the flowers of a blooming chrysanthemum with a cloth at night, and wipe your face with life-giving dew in the morning, this promises a long life and youth. The petals of this flower contain many minerals that a person needs for the normal functioning of the body.

There are many vitamins in chrysanthemum petals, especially vitamin C. And also in the petals essential oil, which increases the body's defenses and has a beneficial effect on the nervous system.

Place chrysanthemum flowers next to the bed, chew a few petals at night and you are guaranteed a good, restful sleep. You can hold a chrysanthemum flower on your forehead before going to bed, then you will fall asleep easier.

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Chrysanthemums are a group of perennial and annual herbaceous flowers of the Asteraceae or Asteraceae family. Plants are close to the genera Tansy and Yarrow, where some varieties of chrysanthemums are often included. The homeland of this flower is the countries of the northern and temperate regions, but the largest number of plants grows in Africa, Europe and Asia.

Garden chrysanthemums: description and photo

Mostly chrysanthemums grow in the form of branched shrubs, sometimes - in the form of herbaceous plants. Plant size from 55-155 cm. The leaves are simple, arranged in the next order, serrated, entire, dissected or notched, different in shape and size, mostly bright green pubescent and not. The flowers are small, collected in a basket consisting of tubular median reed marginal and yellow flowers, usually arranged in single rows and variously colored.

Some varieties of chrysanthemums are successfully grown in our conditions on open ground, others - only in greenhouses, but all plants are valued by gardeners for their ease of propagation, long flowering, and brightness of colors.

A variety of Chrysanthemums includes approximately 160 varieties of plants, divided according to the structure of the flower into large-flowered and small-flowered.

For home growing choose undersized and small-flowered heat-loving varieties. The choice of varieties is quite large. Since chrysanthemums were previously valued for their decorative qualities, long-term selection work was carried out, due to which the color of chrysanthemum flowers, taking into account the variety, began to vary significantly, and the number of varieties, groups and species themselves increased markedly.

Chrysanthemum crowned

The stem is glabrous, slightly branched in the upper half, simple or erect, 24-71 cm in size. Taproot, short. The middle leaves are sessile, up to 7-9 cm in size, oblong-obovate or oblong in outline. The upper leaves are less dissected and smaller. baskets in the amount of 3-7 pieces and whether solitary on lateral leafy branches, as a rule, do not form a shield. Reed corollas of flowers are yellow, of various shades.

Young shoots and leaves taste like celery and are used as food. Young inflorescences also have nutritional value. Planted as an ornamental shrub.

Chrysanthemum alpine

This is a low-growing perennial bush up to 9-14 cm. The leaves are collected in a basal rosette, pinnately dissected. The undersides are gray-green, the upper ones are dark green. Non-branching erect stems have single baskets 3-5 cm in size. It blooms in mid-summer.

Alpine chrysanthemum has silver-gray leaves, which are covered in summer with delicate inflorescences similar to daisy inflorescences, perfect for alpine slides. One of the resistant varieties with terry or simple baskets, it is successfully planted in pots, in flower beds or in borders.

Chrysanthemum keeled

This is an upright, densely branched, 22-73 cm high, with a fleshy stem, almost hairless plant. Leaves on petioles are twice pinnatipartite, slightly fleshy. Inflorescences - fragrant baskets, rarely double or semi-double, single or collected 3-9 on lateral leafy branches, quite large, 4-8 cm in circumference, corymbose, complex inflorescences do not form, they begin to bloom in different times. Reed flowers are yellow, white with a reddish or whitish limb, sometimes one-color, white or yellow; tubular - rich red. Blooms profusely from mid-summer.

From the keeled chrysanthemum, various relatively low (34-55 cm) and dwarf species have been bred.

Chrysanthemum shrub

Evergreen plant up to one meter high. Shoots are thin, branched, erect, woody near the base. The leaves are often divided. Inflorescences - as a rule, fragrant baskets, sometimes double or semi-double, rather large 6 cm in circumference, single or collected on lateral leafy branches of 3-9 pieces. The flowers are tubular yellow, reed pink, yellow or white.

It develops well in open ground and in mild climates. White with yellow centers, similar to ordinary meadow chamomile, bloom in turn for almost a whole year. In regions with a frosty climate, the flower can be planted in containers, bringing it into the house for the winter.

Chinese chrysanthemum

This is a hybrid plant. undersized, perennial, 31-135 cm high, shoots ascending, erect or strong, eventually woody near the base. The leaves are lanceolate, slightly fleshy, oval or oval-lobed, up to 8 cm long, have a smell. The blades are large-toothed, solid. Inflorescences - fragrant baskets, terry, semi-double or simple, rather large, 6-8 cm in circumference, collected 3-9 on lateral leafy branches or single. Reeds are varied in color, have a length greater than the disk. Inner flowers are yellow.

Korean chrysanthemums

Variety of hybrid green chrysanthemums. Varieties of this species differ in the height of the bush, the timing of flowering, the color of tubular and reed flowers, the size and structure of the inflorescences. These varieties grow well in open land.

Flowers, depending on the variety, can reach sizes in a circumference of more than 17 cm. Plant height 35-110 cm.

Korean varieties garden species resistant to pathogens, pests and adverse factors. Their distinguishing characteristic is high decorativeness, the ability to long and abundant flowering.

Korean flower classification:

Inflorescence diameter:

  • large-flowered - inflorescences more than 11 cm in circumference;
  • small-flowered - inflorescences up to 11 cm in circumference.

By type of inflorescence:

  • semi-double - with three or more rows of reed marginal flowers;
  • terry - inflorescences of multiple reed flowers different size and shape, in the middle a small amount of tubular;
  • two-row and single-row - reed marginal flowers are in 1-2 rows;
  • pompom - inflorescences in a circle 3-4 cm in, from multiple reed flowers;
  • anemone - with several or one row of reed marginal flowers.

Height classifies:

The most common varieties of Korean chrysanthemum

  • ‘Altgold’ - rich yellow plants with inflorescences about 6.5 cm in size. Bush height up to 54 cm.
  • ‘Alyonushka’ - chrysanthemums of pink light, with simple chamomile inflorescences. Bush height up to 54 cm.
  • ‘Bacon’ is a red chrysanthemum up to 85 cm in size. Terry inflorescences in a circle up to 5 cm. Blooms in September.
  • ‘Snow White’ - a bush up to 75 cm in size. White terry chrysanthemum, inflorescence in a circle up to 6 cm. It blooms in autumn.
  • ‘Gebe’ is a chamomile chrysanthemum with single-row flowers, up to 7 cm in size.
  • 'Evening Lights' - showy red flowers with a yellow ring near the middle of the inflorescence. Inflorescences chamomile, simple.
  • ‘Orange sunset’ - terry chrysanthemum, orange, with inflorescences up to 11 cm in size. Bush up to 81 cm high.
  • ‘Malchish-Kibalchish’ is an undersized chrysanthemum, less than 35 cm high. Inflorescences are simple in shape, pink. Blooms in late summer. The size of the inflorescences is up to 8 cm.
  • ‘Umka’ is a pompon chrysanthemum with inflorescences up to 8 cm in size. The height of the bush is 85-110 cm. The color of the inflorescences varies from pinkish to pure white.
  • ‘First snow’ - white compact plants up to 40 cm in size. Terry inflorescences up to 6 cm in size. It blooms for a month, from August.

Chrysanthemum Indian

Used for cutting, flowering in late autumn, usually grown indoors.

Popular types

  • ‘Altgold’. The inflorescences are flat, golden yellow, densely double, 6-8 cm in size. The height of the bush is 50-65 cm. The leaves are small, dark green. Flowering time - early October.
  • 'Aurora'. Inflorescences are flat, 9-11 cm in size, orange. The height of the bush is 75-84 cm. The leaves are medium in size, dark green. Blooms from September.
  • ‘Snow Elf’. Inflorescences are pompon, densely double, snow-white, 6-8 cm in size. Bush height - 54-75 cm. Flowering time - from September.
  • ‘Wally Roof’. Flat-shaped inflorescences, pink-lilac, terry, 7-9 cm in size. Flowering time is the end of September.
  • ‘Primzvara’ Inflorescences are hemispherical, 8-11 cm in size, light pink. The height of the bush is 74-95 cm. The leaves are medium, dark green. Blooms from September.

These varieties include all the distinctive colors of chrysanthemums. There are also two-tone varieties. Depending on the age and variety, one plant can have from a dozen to hundreds of inflorescences.

Chrysanthemum Yesenna

Beautifully flowering and tall (up to 1.5 m.) Bush. Reed white flowers, tubular - rich yellow. Inflorescences-umbrellas. Flowering occurs from September. This variety is a perennial plant.

Chrysanthemum sowing

An annual shrub with whole elongated leaves without petioles and an upright stem, size up to 64 cm. Inflorescences are usually painted in rich yellow shades. Blooms from June.

Chrysanthemum multistem

A low-growing shrub with numerous upright stems, up to 24 cm in size. The shape of the leaves may be different. The inflorescences are rich yellow in color, reach a size of 4 cm in circumference. Differs in long and plentiful blossoming.

Chrysanthemums: cultivation and care

Lighting

Plants love diffused bright light, flowers shade from midday direct sun. Evening and morning rays of the sun are beneficial for plants. A suitable place for caring for a flower is on the windowsills of the east and west directions.

Temperature

Preferably keep garden flowers in the summer outside the house, on a site protected from the rays of the sun. You can keep the plant there until frost. Indoors, it is best to give chrysanthemums a cool place, about 16C.

Watering

Chrysanthemums are watered during the growing season with plenty of settled and soft water, as the top layer of the earth dries. It is impossible to allow the soil to dry out during care - this can lead to the fall of buds and leaves. With a cool content in the house, watering is done carefully so as not to wet the ground too much.

Fertilizer

Bait, when caring for a plant, is produced every week, during the growing season, with a flower complex fertilizer.

Transfer

When the bush chrysanthemum fades, you need to cut it off near the ground and move it to a cool place with a temperature of about 4-6C. In March, the bush is transplanted and moved to a cool (14-19C) and bright room. The substrate for chrysanthemum is taken loose and nutritious, for example, this:

  • humus (1 hour);
  • sod land (1 hour);
  • sand (0.3 hours);
  • peat (1 hour).

Drainage is provided at the bottom of the tank.

Growing colorful garden chrysanthemums brightens up an autumn and dreary landscape, as they bloom before the winter frosts set in. They look great with many different shrubs and flowers in the garden, so spray chrysanthemums can be placed in any row of flower beds. The use of chrysanthemum leaves and flowers does not stop at garden decoration, today they are widely used for medicinal purposes. It is believed that their use increases immunity and is the prevention of cardiovascular and oncological diseases.

Perennial garden chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums have always pleased flower growers all over the world with their beautiful appearance. And they did it until the cold. There are many types of a wide variety of shades and shapes. There is simply no specific distribution by species. In each country, flowers are classified differently, as it is more convenient for local residents. In some countries there may be 10 types of chrysanthemums, while in others 15 or more.

Flower origin

Around the world, chrysanthemums have dispersed from Far East and known about them to man since ancient times. The inhabitants of China were the first to grow chrysanthemums and select them in pots. It is believed that the first home flowers of this species were spider chrysanthemums, which were used in cooking and medicine, and later for the design of plots. For the people of China, this flower still remains magic symbol, a good spice and favorite houseplant.

Varieties of chrysanthemums: photo

There are many sources of information where you can get acquainted in detail with a certain type of chrysanthemum, photos and opinions of flower growers. But there is several of their main types:

Perennials and annuals

Perennial chrysanthemums are distinguished by the fact that can bloom for more than three years without requiring strong care or rejuvenation. Such varieties are usually planted in parks, recreation areas, they decorate house adjoining plots. The photo shows yellow chrysanthemums that will decorate any garden or park area.

In landscape design, varieties of flower are used, both annuals and perennials. It goes without saying that the latter is less of a hassle, but there are types annual chrysanthemums, which in their beauty surpass similar varieties of perennials.

During the care of chrysanthemums, most of the attention should be directed to the process of forming bushes. To this end, constantly trimmings are being made and carry out plucking. The first pinching is done at a time when the main shoot grows up to ten centimeters. The top of the escape is removed. Next, you need to wait until the side shoots reach the same size and then pinch them. After these procedures, the plant is not touched until flowering.

We must not forget about regular watering. The plant is very dependent on the amount of moisture in the soil. It does not tolerate drought well and there is a risk of throwing off all the buds, even if the drought is short-term.

It is very important to use fertilizers organic and mineral nature. For top dressing, substances containing potassium and magnesium are used, but during the growth of greenery, the plant requires more nitrogen-containing fertilizers. During digging, a lot of organic matter is introduced into the ground.

During the flowering of chrysanthemums, it is worth remembering that it is necessary to remove dried or old buds. This allows you to increase the flowering time up to four weeks.

Reproduction of chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums are propagated in several ways. The simplest and effective method- this is dividing the bush, since adult bushes must be divided every two years. Another way is cuttings. It is also not difficult. They are very easy to take root and take root quickly. Well, the last way is seeds. The easiest way is to buy them in a specialized store, where they will always tell a novice gardener how to plant them correctly.

Types and varieties of chrysanthemums


































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