How to make a bed for strawberries in the spring. How to prepare a bed for planting strawberries in the fall. Vertical beds made of plastic bags

While novice gardeners are fighting for high yields of strawberries, more experienced comrades-in-arms are selling delicious berries in boxes. You can blame a bad variety, an envious neighbor, and even a villainous fate that interferes with high yields. Or read the article where I will share the basics proper preparation beds for strawberries, talk about choosing a place and the necessary fertilizers. Choose what is closer to you?

Choosing the best place

Do you know that strawberry roots are located in the upper layers of the soil? This means that the plant cannot reach nutrients and moisture from the depths. On poor and unprepared soils, it lags behind in growth, gets sick, reduces yields and dies. We will deal with these problems already at the site selection stage.

The first factor is the nature of the relief

Strawberries do not like shading and take revenge on the negligent gardener with diseases, reduced yields and stunted growth. Therefore, choose a place lit by the sun. The site should be flat and not have holes: in the spring, melt water stagnates in them and the roots die. Perfect option if the site has a slight slope, at least 5 0 . The timing of fruiting and the taste of berries depend on the orientation of the slope.

Meticulous gardeners have calculated that the slope in south side as if moving the site 33 km south. Strawberries grown in this place begin to bear fruit earlier. A plant planted on a slope north side, gives a later harvest, the berries become sour, but larger.

The site can be perfectly flat. The main thing is not to be steep slopes. It is difficult to grow strawberries in such areas: in winter, the wind will blow off the snow and the plants will freeze; during rain, the soil will be washed off and cover the young leaves.

Not suitable for growing garden strawberry and lowlands. In these places, in autumn, the growth of the plant slows down, as a result, it does not have time to prepare for wintering and dies. Even if you can overcome this danger, there is another one. In the lowlands, the leaves of strawberries gain strength, and the berries become smaller and are often affected by fungal diseases.

The second factor is wind protection.

The need for protection is debatable. On the one hand, the presence of a wind barrier increases the yield of strawberries. On the other hand, it contributes to the development of gray rot. Let's consider each case in more detail.

Protection, whether hedge or a series of trees, provides a number of factors necessary for successful cultivation strawberries.

Slows down the wind speed - in winter the snow cover will not be blown away, the plant will overwinter more easily.
Reduces evaporation of moisture - less watering is needed, the plant will receive nutrients faster.
Facilitates the flight of bees due to the lack of wind - the flowers are better pollinated, more ovaries are formed.

And in spring, in areas protected from the wind, snow does not melt longer. The soil is saturated with moisture necessary for strawberries during the period of active growth.

What are the downsides? Experienced gardeners they know: if the plot for strawberries is located in the lowlands, and even protected from the wind, the plant is often affected by gray rot. Frosts in this place will also be stronger than on open space. Cold air will hit the fence and not leave the area.

Conclusion: consider the features of the relief. For low-lying areas, protection is a hindrance, and in open areas it will increase productivity.

The third factor is the composition and structure of the soil

You can make beds for growing strawberries on almost any soil. But in each case, proper preparation is necessary. The following areas are completely unsuitable for cultivation.

With rapidly growing wheatgrass and thistle - these herbs will drown out the growth of strawberries, "steal" nutrients. Destroy the weeds, then prepare the bed.
Having many wireworms and weevil larvae - first destroy the pests.
Wetlands or stagnant areas melt water. Without measures to drain the soil, strawberries will disappear and all work will go down the drain.
Pure sands. The plant burns out and dies. It is possible to plant in 2-3 years after careful preparation, including the introduction of organic matter with plowing to a depth of 40 cm.

The best option for growing strawberries - loamy soils or soil with high content humus. Black earth is also suitable. The main condition is the permeability of the soil and the depth of occurrence ground water not less than a metre.

If you have never grown strawberries, do not know where to prepare a bed for it, I make a brief summary of the conditions right choice site.

Flat, without holes, a place lit by the sun. Better with a slight slope.
The presence of wind protection in open areas and its absence in the lowlands.
Fertile chernozem or loam with good water permeability. Waterlogged, sandy and grassy or pest-infested areas require preliminary preparation.

The place has been chosen, we proceed to the direct preparation of the soil for growing strawberries.

Preparing the soil for the garden

AT professional literature it is often said that strawberries are not recommended for growing in garden beds. Why? A bed is called a surface raised above ground level. It is believed that in this case, the yield is lower due to a lack of moisture.

If you are a beginner gardener and the terms " ampel cultivation" or "vertical bed" mean nothing to you, grow strawberries on a flat area that does not have elevations. The exception is the lowlands. Here the bed is only for good.

All the measures described below for the successful cultivation of strawberries ( garden strawberries) is best done in advance. The effect of them after planting seedlings will be lower. Let's start.

Getting the right acidity

Slightly acidic and medium acidic soils with a pH level of 5.0 - 5.5 are suitable for garden strawberries. Ideally, the analysis is best done in the laboratory. But, if this is not possible, you can determine the acidity of the soil yourself.

If the site has not been cultivated before, inspect it. Pay attention to signs that indicate high acidity of the soil:

orange water in ditches and depressions containing dark yellow sediment;
the presence of a gray layer at a shallow depth from the soil surface;
abundant presence of mint, sedge, horse sorrel, couch grass and clover.

The latter indicator is not always reliable. Plant seeds can be brought by the wind or birds. For more accurate data, use litmus strips, with which you can easily determine the acidity of the soil in the area.

Soil with high acidity must be limed. To do this, use:

slaked lime;
dolomite or lime flour;
ground chalk;
calcareous tufa;
cement dust.

Choose the tool that is easier to get. The best option - slaked lime. The dosage depends on the type of soil and the level of acidity.

Lime will reduce acidity and increase the nutritional value of the soil, increase the rate of mineralization of fertilizers.

Garden strawberries do not do well in newly limed soils. The roots of the plant are damaged, which leads to slower growth and the absence of high yields. Therefore, liming should be carried out three years before planting garden strawberries in the beds.

We apply fertilizer to the beds

Ideally, you need to fertilize prepared beds a year before planting strawberry bushes. However, if time is running out, fertilize in the spring and plant seedlings in August or fall. Remember that too much fertilizer is just as bad for strawberries as too little. If you exceed the recommended dosage, the plant will develop leaves to the detriment of the berries.

First, dig the area to a depth of 20 cm and remove the roots of weeds. Then apply fertilizer. For each square meter need:

manure - 6 kg;
superphosphate - 50 g;
potassium chloride - 15 g;
ammonium sulfate - 25 g.

If there is a problem with the last three components, use the ready-made fruit and berry mixture in the dosages recommended by the manufacturer. After fertilizing, dig the strawberry beds again.

And this is how strawberries are planted on agrofibre.

Immediately before planting garden strawberry seedlings, level and roll the prepared beds with a roller. This will allow you to accurately place the young strawberry bushes at the correct depth and ensure better establishment.

Preparing a bed for strawberries

In one place, strawberries can grow up to 6 years, but the peak of its active fruiting falls on the 3rd and 4th years of growth. Therefore, prepare a bed for this berry thoroughly. I give an example of how I make beds for strawberries.

I dig up the earth, tear a trench, put compost inside and bury it. I scatter from above mineral fertilizer Superphosphate (norm - in accordance with the instructions). If there is sand or humus, then you can add them to better loosen the soil.

Then I harrow the bed (level it) with a rake. Then I spill the earth with a BIO fungicide - a natural defense against fungal and bacterial diseases. I buy a preparation in the form of a paste and prepare a liquid solution from it by dissolving 1 part of the paste in 2 parts of rainwater (in this form, the solution can be stored all season). And then from this basic solution I prepare a worker: 1 tbsp. l. liquid preparation for 10 liters. water - per 1 sq. m.

The rules for cultivating land for strawberries or any other plantings are almost the same for me. The main thing in this processing is not to use chemistry. If you have to use sometimes chemicals, I try to do it with caution and at a minimum.

If there is a black covering material - spunbond - then I cover the bed for a couple of weeks, if there is no material, then you can cover it with a film or even boards. The ground must remain moist.

The compost I use is unripe and that's good. After all, after a couple of weeks, the soil is transformed (this can be clearly seen in the video below)! It becomes crumbly, blacker in color, the number of earthworms is added. My strawberries grow in one place up to 4 years, and for the first two years I feed the berries very little - the berries receive the main nutrition from compost and properly prepared land.

The berry tolerates hyperacidity soil, so I do not scatter any dolomite or slaked lime. But ash can be added during planting.

I make the width of the beds for strawberries about 70-80 cm. I have two rows of bushes on it at a distance of 20-25 cm from the edge and 30-35 cm one row from the other and between the bushes. If possible, I enclose the beds with slate so that the edges do not crumble, but the main thing is that there are no slugs on the plant. They, with their delicate little bodies, are simply unable to crawl along the rough surface of slate.

After planting strawberries, I carefully shed the bed.

Once I planted strawberries under spunbond. Freed myself from weeding and frequent watering, but ants often start up under the material. This is a photo from previous years.

I often read that the best time for planting strawberries is from July 25 to August 10. But I plant strawberries later. The main thing that I observe: the prepared bed should stand covered for at least 2 weeks and planting seedlings no later than August 25th. Keep in mind that pickup times vary by region.

On the slate (or any other edging) I make a note with a marker - the year the strawberries were planted.

When planting new bushes, I definitely cut off all the leaves, and the mustache has most of them, leaving no more than 2. Strawberries have time to grow greens and prepare for wintering long before the onset of sub-zero night temperatures.

Article Author: Love

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In previous articles, we dealt with the features of the propagation of strawberries (strawberries) and how to plant them.

It's time to get up close and personal with the technology. When should strawberries be planted? How to plant it correctly so that each bush takes root and overwinter? How to water and feed newly planted seedlings? Is it necessary to mulch young plantings? Today our goal is to find answers to these and some other questions.

Planting dates for strawberries

For the future excellent harvest berries, first of all, high-quality seedlings are needed, and the best mustaches and rosettes appear in early spring or late summer when temperatures are low and moisture is plentiful.

That's why optimal timing planting strawberries in middle lane the periods from April 15 to May 5 and from July 25 to September 5 are considered. In the southern regions spring planting they start already in the first days of March, and the autumn one ends at the end of October.

When is it better to plant strawberries: in spring or autumn? In most areas and in most cases, the August planting of young strawberries is considered the most successful option. During this period, the gardener has more time, and planting material a lot, and the weather, as a rule, is favorable for young bushes to take root, take root in a new place and safely endure the winter. But in open areas blown by all winds in areas with severe, little snowy winters, it is better to be careful and postpone planting to spring. Then the young bushes will have a whole summer to get stronger.

Preparing a bed for strawberries (strawberries)

Strawberries are recommended to be planted in well-lit areas where garlic, onions, root vegetables or legumes used to grow. It is very good if the bed for strawberries was chosen in advance and sown with green manure in the spring, which had already been mowed by August, and the bed was shed with a solution of EM preparations. Most the best siderat for strawberries, it's lupins.

In any case, before planting seedlings, the site must be cleared of weeds and the soil mixed. Strawberries are a rather “gluttonous” berry, so in addition to the earth, compost, rotted manure or biohumus, and ash will be required to prepare the soil.

Holes for strawberry seedlings are made deep and wide. The distance between the holes is 30-50 cm. The distance between the rows is 40 cm. The earth taken out of the holes is mixed with the rest of the soil components in the following proportions: 1 bucket of earth, 1 bucket of manure, 1 bucket of compost, 2 cups of ash. From the soil prepared in this way, a small mound is made in the center of each hole.

Strawberry (strawberry) planting technology

Like any other crop, it is preferable to plant strawberries on a cloudy day or in the evening.

An hour before planting, the seedlings need to be watered, it would be even better to soak the seedlings in water or a growth biostimulator for a couple of hours. Some gardeners keep bushes in garlic infusion before planting (150 ml of garlic infusion per 10 liters of water) to prevent pest attacks.

A good strawberry seedling should have 3-4 healthy leaves (the rest should be removed) and well-spread roots 10 centimeters long (extra centimeters should be cut off).

So, we have prepared young bushes, holes with "mounds" and the remains of the soil mixture. It remains only to install each bush on a mound so that the growth point (the so-called "heart") is on the same level with the surface of the bed, and the roots are straightened along the slopes of the mound.

Then, holding the bush, it is necessary to fill it with soil prepared in advance and at the same time spill it with water. This is done so that the contact of the roots and the earth is closer.

Be sure to ensure that the growing point is not too deep or too elevated above the soil.
Care for a young bed of strawberries (strawberries)

If you planted strawberries in the spring, flower stalks and mustaches may appear on the young bed. Cut them off without pity! Now the main task of seedlings is rooting in a new place, and fruiting and reproduction can and should be postponed until the next season.

Be sure to mulch freshly planted strawberries. The best mulching material for this berry is needles - it prevents diseases from developing and repels pests. But straw, and dried grass, and foliage, and rotted sawdust, etc. are also suitable.

Two weeks after planting, the young berry is fed. As a top dressing, you can use biohumus infusion (sold in stores), infusion bird droppings or herbal infusion. All these fertilizers are organic, contain a large number of easily digestible nitrogen, which contributes to the rapid growth of young strawberries.

We wish you success and great harvests!

Preparing and laying beds for strawberries

Strawberries become smaller every year, the berries lose their aroma and taste, the plant starts to get sick a lot? So, it's time to start laying a new plantation.

Site selection and soil preparation

The laying of a new strawberry plantation is carried out 4 years after planting the previous one. Best time for bookmarking - early April or mid-August to early September, three weeks before the first frost.

If the plants are planted later in the spring, the seedlings will grow slowly. During summer and autumn planting good harvest can only be obtained for the next season. Start work in the evening or cloudy weather.

The place is chosen on the southern or western part of the garden, dry and well lit. The acidity of the soil should be no higher than average, the pH should be from 5.5 to 6.5 with a humus content of at least 2%, and the occurrence of groundwater at a depth of no more than 60 cm.

Strawberries are best planted after legumes, cereals, carrots, garlic, onions. Not recommended: after cucumbers, potatoes, tomatoes, Asteraceae and Ranunculaceae. Strawberries can be planted at the previous plantation site only after 6 years.

The soil is dug up well to a depth of 20 cm and organic and mineral supplements: from 4 to 6 kg of manure, 20 g of potassium and 60 g of superphosphate per 1 sq.m. After fertilization, the earth is dug up and loosened.

If the laying of a new strawberry plantation takes place in the spring, then the soil is fertilized and prepared at the end of summer, after harvesting. When the autumn planting of seedlings is planned, fertilizers are applied in the spring and greens are grown on these beds.

Planting seedlings and planting schemes

For transplanting, seedlings are dug up, together with the roots, without shaking off the earth, they are placed in any dish and the leaves are sprayed with water. Before planting, the plants are placed in a cool place for 5 days and disinfected. root system by immersing it for 15 minutes in a solution table salt With blue vitriol(3 tablespoons of salt, 1 teaspoon of vitriol per 10 liters of water).

The soil is pre-moistened, when planting root collar plants (heart) are located at ground level, and the roots are vertical. If the main root of the plant is very long, it is shortened to 10 cm. After planting, the bushes are watered and mulched so that a dry crust does not form on the surface of the earth.

by the most the best way planting strawberries is considered two-line: the distance between ribbons is up to 70 cm, between lines - 30 cm, the distance between rows - 15-20 cm. cm.

If the landing site is lowland, then strawberries are placed on ridges up to 70 cm wide. The distance between rows is 15-20 cm, between ridges - up to 30 cm. Ridges are placed from the north to the south side.

Caring for strawberry seedlings after planting

2 weeks after planting, the seedlings are checked, dried plants are removed and new ones are planted. Bushes are watered at the rate of 1 liter of water per plant by rain or drip.

At the end of April, 1 irrigation is carried out, from May to July - 2-3, in August and September - 2 irrigations. With a lack of moisture, productivity will decrease, and with an overabundance, the risk of disease will increase.

In the first year after planting, weeds are fought agrotechnical methods: weeding and treatment with targeted herbicides. Mustaches and grown leaves are periodically removed on young plants, preventing the weakening of plants, and protecting strawberries from diseases and pests.

In winters with little snow, young bushes are covered with mulch:

coniferous branches;
dry grass;
covering material.

Mulching begins with small but established frosts, up to minus 5 gr. Celsius. The correct laying of a strawberry plantation will provide tasty and useful berry for several years.

Strawberries are quite expensive and useful product, therefore, all amateur gardeners who are at least minimally engaged in the cultivation of edible crops on their suburban area, strive to treat themselves to this delicious berry, allocating to it a territory of half a hundred, or even a hundred or two. Strawberries are quite finicky in care, so the question is: what kind and how to prepare a bed for strawberries for your site - it is worth deciding first. Perhaps your long-awaited harvest depends on it.

The paradox of this plant is that it loves moisture very much, but does not tolerate satiety with it, so beds for strawberries must be made on some hill. The convenience in a raised ridge is not only that it looks neat and water does not stagnate there, but also that it is convenient to remove weeds on it and generally take care of the bushes, removing excess tendrils and dried leaves.

How to make raised beds for strawberries

The height of the bed can vary from 10 centimeters to 30, depending on the place where the strawberry beds are being prepared - it can be a slope or uneven lowland that should be leveled to prevent stagnant water that harms these plants. Some experienced farmers prefer more high beds for strawberries, equipping them from old tires or boxes and raising the level working surface by 40-60 cm or reaching a meter or more (structures in the form of pipes with holes or stepped boxes).

Nowadays, everyone chooses for himself how to prepare a bed for strawberries - fertilize the plain and plant seedlings in the old fashioned way, or make the most convenient bed to use, which you don’t have to bend down to and which is conveniently watered - from above (covering watering a dozen bushes). In addition, harvesting from such a bed for strawberries is a real pleasure, unlike the old methods, when the berry, ripening, lay on the ground and was often amazed different types rotted before it was harvested, or simply contaminated.

Vertical beds for strawberries

Of course, this type of beds has become best solution in the cultivation of this berry, especially in small garden plots.

First, constructing compositions from different materials (wooden boxes, metal racks with pots or clay flowerpots) you can emphasize the design of the site, complementing it with flowering and fruiting bushes, unexpectedly located at eye level. And to make a bed for strawberries not only tasty, but also interesting.
Secondly, it really makes it easier to take care of the plant and the bed for strawberries can fit on sunny areas if your land is occupied garden trees or lawn.

In addition, there is an opinion that strawberries should not be grown for three years in one place - it becomes smaller and loses its taste and aroma. Therefore, vertical strawberry beds that have taken root in your area can be a fresh trend in your strawberry growing experience. They can even be built from barrels, if this is to your taste as a designer, or you can just delve into the process of improving the strawberry itself and experience different ways growing this berry - in hanging bags, in lawn pots, in flowerpots and other unusual containers adapted for strawberries, victoria or strawberries. Experiment, create, create the best for strawberries and for yourself!

Preparing a bed for strawberries in the fall. How to make a bed for strawberries

If your soil is poorly fertile, there is not enough humus and humus, then it is imperative to fill the strawberry ridges with humus or compost. organic top dressing for strawberry bushes there may be apples - carrion. In fertile years there are a lot of them and the best thing to do is to put them in beds, and they will turn into compost.

We make a bed for strawberries in the form of a ditch, fill it with fallen apples, cover it with earth and plant strawberries. For planting, a bed is made 1 m 20 cm wide and two grooves are made in it, berry rosettes are planted along the edges, the middle can be left free and summer onions can be sown there on greens or something else.