How to propagate viburnum cuttings in the spring. Kalina: methods of reproduction. Planting viburnum - where is it better to plant a shrub

Grow viburnum on own site- the natural desire of any summer resident. At proper care viburnum bush in the spring will delight lush bloom, and in autumn - clusters of red berries. And the berry itself is so useful that it is simply a must to have it on your site. Moreover, the reproduction of viburnum does not require any special efforts and knowledge.

The plant loves partial shade, choose a place where the sun would not burn it all day. It grows big bush, it is used to mask unsightly master buildings. A bush is planted at a distance of 2-3 m from other plantings or a fence. It is better to breed in the fall, when the leaves on the trees have fallen, but the frosts have not yet come.

Representatives of the Adox family perceive neutral and slightly acidic soils. But soils of peat, podzolic, sandy type are not suitable for them. It is also important that ground water lay no less than 1 m from the place where the tree was grown.

Reproduction of viburnum can be carried out in several ways:

from seeds (bones),
cuttings,
layering.

You can breed viburnum with berries, but it is not a fact that the harvest will be as large and plentiful, the seeds do not convey all the properties of the mother plant.

Reproduction by cuttings

Cuttings are planted in spring or autumn. When pruning a bush, excess branches are removed. Do not throw them away, but cut them off, leaving 3 buds on the shoot. Stick a few cuttings in a shaded place, cover with a plastic five-liter bottle.

Green (young) shoots are planted in the summer when they reach a height of 15 cm. They are broken out with a heel. Plant in the shade, water, cover with a bottle. The cuttings will definitely grow back.

Reproduction by layering

Tilt the branch. From the place of the alleged rooting, count 3 buds and cut the branch. Pin the branch so that it is in contact with the ground. Place cardboard, plastic under the branch, and a stone on top. See how this is done in this video.

Planting viburnum from a container

Right now in flower shops sell ready-made bushes in containers. How to properly plant them on your site?

We find a shaded place where the viburnum bush will constantly grow. We dig a hole with a diameter of 60 cm, and to the same depth, maybe even a little more. We add 1 bucket of rotted compost to the pit, mix it with the ground so that the young roots do not burn. At root collar deepen a little, 5 cm below ground level. Over time, the earth will settle down, and the root collar will be at ground level.

We carefully put the bush in the prepared hole, pour plenty of water. Pour out gradually at least 1 bucket of water. When the water is completely absorbed, cover the near-stem hole with earth. Mulch the soil near the planting with tree bark.

Caring for the viburnum bush

What is done to make the bush lush and the harvest plentiful?

Kalina needs to be protected from pests. At the end of May - the beginning of summer, a black aphid appears, it sticks around all the shoots and buds, sucks everything out of them nutrients, so the berries grow little, and they are small. At the same time, the viburnum leaf beetle appears, it so eats the leaves that only petioles remain.

To get rid of pests, the plant is treated before flowering with insecticides - Intavir or Iskra. 1-2 treatments will be enough to get rid of sucking and leaf-eating pests. It is important to inspect the bushes in order to identify insects in time.

Kalina is very moisture-loving plant. Therefore, watering in the summer is a must. In the heat, 1 bucket of water is poured under a young bush, 2 buckets for an adult, at least 1-2 times a week.
Form a bush, cut it off in time, do not let it thicken. A dense bush does not provide sufficient nutrition to all branches, as a result, fewer berries will grow.
Bush feeding. Spring add nitrogen fertilizers, they call good growth ovaries. In autumn, the bush is fed phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. This allows the plant to overwinter well and lay buds for the next year.

Dear readers, plant viburnum on your plots, it's so beautiful, and the benefits of viburnum are very great. not without reason folk recipes from viburnum have been used for many, many years.

Planting viburnum on the site is the best idea that could only come to mind. The indisputable argument in favor of landing is beneficial features viburnum berries, so planting it on the site, we make a significant contribution to the health treasury. In addition, viburnum blooms with delicate pink and white inflorescences, so aesthetic pleasure is also guaranteed.

Viburnum prefers well-lit areas. They fit perfectly and mature plant, and cuttings in the process of reproduction. It is just necessary to propagate on neutral soils, soil of slightly acidic reaction is allowed. It is worth avoiding sandy, peaty soils that stop flowering and fruiting viburnum while it is in their possession.

Reproduction of viburnum occurs in two approaches: in spring and autumn equally good conditions for cuttings and planting. Viburnum cuttings are deepened into pits 40x40, keeping a distance of three places between future shrubs. Harvesting of cuttings takes place in June during the annual pruning of the plant. It is worth storing them correctly so that the cuttings remain green and do not lose their flexibility until planting. Normally, viburnum cuttings should have three nodes. Cut them ten centimeters long. The top cut is always straight, and the bottom is made at an angle. In the same place, the cuttings are treated with a solution of a growth biostimulator or a dry powder for the formation of roots. It is necessary to propagate cuttings of viburnum in the soil of peat and sand (1: 1). Sand before mixing with peat, it is desirable to steam or ignite in a frying pan.

The first weeks of growing viburnum cuttings are similar in their process to greenhouse care: the cuttings are planted in a container and covered with a film. The approximate temperature in the room should be between 25 and 30 degrees. Permissible air humidity is 60-70 percent. Viburnum cuttings are watered and periodically sprayed. In the open field, when the moment comes for transplanting mature cuttings, weeds are carefully removed and required amount peat, humus, sod land and leaf in equal proportions, then viburnum cuttings are transplanted. After transplantation, they must be fed with mineral, preferably in combination, fertilizers. It is also allowed to feed with urea, wood ash to improve protective functions viburnum. Ash and urea should not come into contact with the root system of the formed cuttings, otherwise you will have to dig up and remove the damaged areas.

After the cuttings are transplanted into open ground, you need to outline the hole around them and water the viburnum over it, as well as mulch with sawdust or peat. Top dressing in open ground is carried out after the first two months of life. Need to make mineral fertilizers, and during the formation of inflorescences, throughout the entire flowering and when laying fruits, viburnum is fed with organic components. Another stage of feeding awaits viburnum two years after breeding. It is held in autumn period. It is necessary to introduce manure and potash, phosphate fertilizers, diluted with water. You can accompany top dressing by loosening the soil mixture for better absorption of fertilizers.

Kalina is usually propagated by cuttings, layering and shoots. The resulting offspring retains all the varietal characteristics of the mother plant. The division of the bush is resorted to, as a rule, during transplantation. Propagated by seeds only natural species. This method is suitable for the most patient - flowering will have to wait five or even six years.

reproductioncuttings. In viburnum, not lignified, but green cuttings take root better. They are harvested during the flowering period (in June-early July), when they are elastic and do not break when bent, but spring. Cut from the middle part of the shoot 7-12 cm long. On the handle, prepared for planting, there should be 2-3 knots, an oblique lower cut, lower leaves removed, upper half cut off.

Reproduction by green cuttings: 1 - cutting leaves;

2 - keeping in a biostimulator; 3 - planting a rooted cutting

For a quick and good development of the root system, the lower end of the cuttings is dusted with root or the ends are immersed for 10 hours in a solution of heteroauxin. Planted in a substrate prepared from equal parts of a large river sand and peat. They are planted obliquely, deepening by 1-2 cm, according to the 4x5 cm scheme and covered with glass frames or plastic wrap so that the air temperature is 27-30 ° C at a humidity of 90%. During rooting, the leaves are moistened 3-4 times a day with water. In such conditions, roots appear after 3 weeks. Then the frame and the film begin to be slightly opened: first for several hours, then for a day, and then they are completely removed.

The cuttings overwinter in the same place where they took root, covered with dry leaves or spruce branches. In the spring, together with a clod of earth, they are transplanted to a bed of open ground according to a 50x15 cm scheme for growing. Then transplanted to permanent place and after 2-3 years they admire the flowering of young bushes.

reproductionhorizontallayering. For this, the bush is prepared ahead of time. In spring, branches (not older than four years) are cut off, leaving a stump with 2-4 buds. The following spring, the overgrown one-year-old shoots are shortened by 1/5 of the length, bent to the ground and laid out radially in grooves 5-6 cm deep. They are pinned with hooks or horns, but do not fall asleep with soil. When shoots 10-15 cm high develop from the awakened buds, the furrows are covered with a wet mixture of soil with humus or peat, leaving the tops of the branches free. As the shoots grow, hilling is repeated 2- 3 times. In autumn, when the shoots take root, the bent branch is cut off at the base of the bush and cut into the number of rooted shoots. Well-developed layering is immediately planted in a permanent place, weak ones are grown for a year.

reproductionbasalundergrowth. This is my fast way. In late May - early June, coppice shoots that have grown to 20 cm are spudded with soil to a height of 7-8 cm. Before that, they are pulled at the base with soft wire to accelerate root formation. During the summer, hilling is carried out 2-3 times, gradually bringing the height of the hill to 20 cm by autumn. In the spring next year shoots are separated from the mother bush and planted in a permanent place.

seedreproduction. Viburnum seeds remain viable for 2 years. They germinate hard, sprout 12-20%.

After ripening, the juice is squeezed out of the fruit, then the seeds are washed from the pulp and dried in a ventilated room. You are sown in open ground at a depth of 3-4 cm.

At autumn sowing shoots appear only after a year. For sowing in spring, the seeds are stratified within 5-6 months. In the fall, they are placed in wet sand and kept in a refrigerator at a temperature of 4-5 ° C until sowing in April. Shoots after such stratification also appear after a year. However, if stratification is applied with variable temperatures, then seed germination can be significantly accelerated.

To do this, immediately after harvesting the fruits, the peeled seeds are placed in a box with wet sand and stored at a temperature of 20-28 ° C for 2 months. Then they are transferred to a refrigerator (or a snow pile) and stored at a temperature of 0-5 ° C until April sowing. Seedlings appear already in the spring, they are dived, grown for 2 years and transplanted to a permanent place. When growing, seedlings are regularly watered, preventing the soil from drying out, they are fed, and the soil in the garden is mulched. Flowering viburnum, grown from seedlings, will begin 5-6 years after sowing the seeds.

Before leaving. But the process of division and planting still remains decisive. Let's see how we can multiply.

Reproduction by cuttings

This is the most effective, but at the same time rather complicated method. Agronomists know that such a procedure can be carried out in two ways: “fast” and more measured.

The first one is easier. Preparation starts with , and workflow looks like this:

In winter, cut annual shoots 15-20 cm long.
They are dipped in water for 2-3 hours, after which they are placed in a regular bag, tied and stored until low temperatures. To do this, the workpiece is taken out to a dry basement.
Landing is done when it warms up to at least + 10 ° C to a depth of 10 cm.
Such a scheme provides for landing in a row, with an interval of 10-15 cm between the cuttings. At the same time, they are trying to place them at an angle: one kidney is above, the second is exactly in level.

The soil is abundant and compacted. Further "classics" - and weeding.
seedlings are already transferred to a permanent place.

Propagation by cuttings with further planting can be done in another way. It is conditionally called "green" or scientific. Looking ahead, we note that after such work bushes grow better:

During flowering (- early July), green cuttings are harvested. You can take those that have already begun to stiffen. Most importantly, they must be flexible. If, when bent, they spring and do not break, you are not mistaken with the choice.
The shoot is cut off with the first two buds (this is about 7-12 cm) and divided into cuttings. The lower oblique cut is 1-1.5 cm from the base of the cutting above the kidney (cut at an angle of 45 °), and the upper one is already made over the next pair, cutting straight.
Then the lower leaves are cut off from the cuttings. The top can be cut in half.
The blanks are placed in. At the same time, the tips are immersed by 1.5-2 cm. The liquid should not get on the leaves, so be careful. The best drug remains (100 mg / 1 l of water);
Such "baths" are placed in a dark place for 10-16 hours.

For planting, prepare small ones in a shady corner of the site. Direct Sun rays such plantings are undesirable. Optimum temperature+27°С…+30°С.
Lay a light substrate. The bottom layer of 10 cm is a mixture of soddy soil and coarse sand (in a ratio of 3:1:1). can be replaced with . The top layer of 3-5 cm consists of equal parts of peat and sand (here already without).
Landing is done according to the scheme: 7 cm between rows and 5 cm between cuttings. They are placed obliquely, to a depth of 1.5-2 cm and covered with a greenhouse frame.
The next 3 weeks are rooting: at this time, the plant is watered 3-4 times a day. After such a time, they open on one side, and after another couple of weeks, the coating is removed altogether.

Important! Instead of "Heteroauxin", you can use a solution of IBA (indolylbutyric acid). 50 mg of the substance is added to 1 liter of water and the roots are immersed for half a day.

Cuttings hibernate in the same place, they are covered with spruce branches or dense lutrasil. If there are none, dry leaves will also come off.
by removing , they can be moved to a permanent place. But some leave for another season. So the seedlings are finally strengthened.
Dig deep holes, leaving a small mound at the bottom.
A seedling is placed on it, the roots are bred on the sides. The root neck deepens by a maximum of 7 cm. General scheme landing - 50 x 15 cm. In a couple of years there will be young strong ones.

For all its complexity, this method has one indisputable advantage - thanks to it you can get a large number of plants, and cuttings are accepted better.

Did you know? Kalina is one of the main symbols of folk culture. There are many songs and legends about her. In the old days, this plant also determined the cycle of work: for example, they tried to sow barley while it was still blooming.

Reproduction by vertical layering

This is an easy way that does not require extra effort:

on young plants, the lower branches are cut, leaving 3-4 buds on them. "Trunk" spud higher.
new shoots grow from the same buds. When they reach 8-10 cm, they are spudded to a height of 4-5 cm.
The shoots that have reached 25–30 cm “grab” at the base of the copper or aluminum wire and again cut to 1/3 of the height.
After 10-14 days, hilling is repeated.
Until the fall, the shoots have time to take root, then they are dug up, separated from the mother and planted in the allotted place. It is undesirable to process the division site: garden pitch or other compounds form a film on the cut, which almost does not allow air to pass through.
The seating is traditional. A hole is dug, moistened, the seedling is first planted a little at an angle, digging the root neck by 5-7 cm.
Closer to make a shelter out of .

As you can see, everything is simple here, no solutions. They are not needed for the next method on our list.

Reproduction by horizontal layering

Work begins in spring and covers two seasons:

2-3-year-old branches are cut from the bush (some also remove “four-year-olds”, but not older). Remains with 3-4 kidneys. For the current year, everything, we leave the viburnum alone until next spring.

Important! If many cuttings are prepared, they can be tied into a bundle before immersion in a strengthening solution.

A year later, young shoots are cut off by about 1/5 of the entire length and bent to the soil.
They are laid in a prepared groove (5-6 cm deep), and fastened with hooks. Please note: such layers are not immediately dug in! You will have to wait until the buds beat off shoots of at least 10 cm each.
Then the hole is covered with a substrate of humus and peat in equal proportions. The tops should remain on the surface. The first hilling is done with powder about half the height of the processes.
In summer, 2 hillings are done with an interval of 2 weeks. The maximum height of the filling should reach 20-25 cm.
With the onset of autumn, the layering is cut off from the main bush, and shoots are already separated from it, which by that time have grown stronger and rooted. They are transferred to another place.

Reproduction by root shoots

Another simple trick that does not take much time:

In the last decade of May - the first days of June, shoots that have grown up to 20 cm are looked after. To stimulate the growth of roots, they are pulled with soft wire (at the very base).
Hilling is immediately done to a height of 7-8 cm.

The same procedure is repeated 2-3 times in the summer. By autumn, you should get a 20-centimeter mound. This year, they no longer touch it, leaving the bush for the winter.
But next spring such shoots are separated from viburnum and transferred to a prepared place. Planting technology is familiar to this plant and does not require any other operations. Just try not to deepen the root collars too much.

There remains one more approach that raises many questions among gardeners. We will try to answer them.

When a plant is tasty, and even more useful, then, of course, you want to have several dozen copies of it in the garden. Therefore, the reproduction of viburnum by layering is a simple and not laborious way for such a thing. Still, it is important to know some of the subtleties of the process. In other cases, the bush is simply divided into several parts, leaving three buds on each of them.

Also in July / June, green 10 cm cuttings (with 3 knots) are cut and rooted. Leaves are removed from the stems, and then they are immersed 2 cm in a substrate of peat and sand. Next, they make a small greenhouse, and the next spring they are planted in the soil.

Propagation of viburnum by layering - all the details of work

Many people think that this procedure is quite simple. You just need to take the branch away from the mother bush and dig it. Nevertheless, in order to get a healthy seedling, and in the future a productive plant, the process is carried out with some reservations:

Choose a young and properly growing shoot. It should be as flexible as possible, not too stiff.
They make a cut. Two buds are left from the branching point. All other shoots are removed from the stem.
Loosen the ground near the bush. At 20 cm, a small depression is formed.
Press the branch to the bottom of the hole. Fix it with a paperclip / loop, which can be made from welding electrode. The branch is recommended to be broken at the point of contact with the soil.
Close up with wet soil.
They put oppression on the chest. plastic plate set close to the stem, but so that it does not scratch it. A stone is placed on top.
Water thoroughly after a week.

Carry out the reproduction of viburnum by layering in early spring after the threat has passed spring frosts. In some regions, the date of an unusual landing falls on the May holidays or in mid-April.

The next spring, the seedling is dug up. In autumn, when new shoots appear, the rooted sprout is separated from the mother bush.

lazy layering

Kalina is unpretentious both in care and in reproduction. It perfectly adapts to new conditions and quickly takes root on soddy-podzolic soils. Therefore, some experienced gardeners use "lazy" layering for its reproduction. First of all, they:

choose the extreme young branch;
cut off its top, leaving 2-3 cm above the kidney;
stick the shoot with a cut into the ground;
fix it with some object.

After 12 months, new branches will hatch from such an unusual sprout, and roots will also form on it. The resulting seedling is cut off from the mother culture. Then they dig up a young specimen with a clod of earth and send it to a container. The roots are sprinkled with earth so that they do not become weathered. As soon as it gets warmer, the sprout is transplanted to a well-lit area. Some place it a few meters from.

It should be borne in mind that the reproduction of viburnum by layering according to such a system will not give a lightning-fast result. long time the seedling will sit in the ground until it is strong enough. However, by planting several of these exhibits, you can get bountiful harvest after 5 years.