How Tomatoes Grow. Tomatoes on the windowsill in winter: the best varieties and the procedure for growing tomatoes at home

It is hard to believe that although tomatoes, they are tomatoes, have been known to Europeans since the middle of the 16th century, they began to be eaten only at the very end of the 18th century. Prior to this, tomato bushes were grown exclusively as ornamental plant, and their fruits were considered poisonous. As early as 1774, gardening manuals warned that tomatoes would drive those who eat them crazy. Perhaps they were not so far from the truth: a delicious, juicy tomato can really drive a true gourmet crazy!

, or - these are herbaceous or semi-shrub, annual or perennial plants belonging to the nightshade family. The tomato has a very developed root system, and its seeds remain viable for about nine years.

Growing seedlings of tomatoes

For sowing tomatoes, it is necessary to use a separate area: plastic containers, seedling cassettes, etc., which need to be disinfected before sowing. Before sowing seedlings, it is necessary to provide good lighting, regular temperatures and air ventilation. Any seedling containers must have special drainage holes at the bottom, otherwise the plants will be susceptible to black leg disease.

For sowing tomato seedlings you can use any universal sowing substrate or compost from a mixture of sand and peat, taken in equal parts. It is not worth sowing tomato seeds too thickly, otherwise the seedlings will be thin and weak - they will stretch. If you are sowing seeds in a greenhouse, then sowing should be done in rows, this will allow you to use the lighting as much as possible.

Immediately before sowing, the substrate must be thoroughly moistened. The seeds themselves need to be warmed up - this will contribute to their disinfection, improve their sowing qualities and contribute to the appearance of faster, more friendly shoots. It is necessary to warm dry full-weight tomato seeds with variable temperatures: 48 hours - at a temperature of about +30 ° C, after that another 72 hours - at +50 ° C. Seeds can be sown dry or pre-soaked in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate. We lower the seeds into a glass with a solution and stand there for about half an hour. After that, the seeds must be washed in running water about 10 minutes. Immediately after sowing, the substrate must be covered with a film or a 5 mm layer of vermiculite, this will help maintain soil moisture.

Before the appearance of the first shoots of tomatoes, it is necessary to maintain a temperature not higher than +23 ° C. And immediately after their appearance, the film from the seedling containers must be removed. In order not to expose still very weak seedlings to excessive evaporation, it is better to remove the film in the afternoon. When watering seedlings, which must be done with a finely sprayed jet, it is impossible to fill it with water heavily. It is necessary to follow and temperature regime seedling cultivation. So, as soon as the first shoots appear, the temperature should be reduced to + 8-10 at night and + 10-15 during the day - within 3 days, thus hardening the seedlings from the first days of its appearance. It is necessary to harden the seedlings until they are transplanted into a greenhouse, but not less than 15 days for the entire time of their growth.

planting tomatoes

For cultivation tomatoes it is better to choose the southern, southwestern or southeastern sections. Good yields give tomatoes planted near south wall buildings or fences. Tomatoes can be successfully grown in the same place even 2-3 years in a row, although then it is necessary to make organic fertilizers. The best predecessors for tomatoes are cucumbers, cabbage, zucchini and onions. It is not recommended to grow tomatoes after pepper, potatoes, eggplant and physalis. In those areas where these crops were cultivated, tomatoes can be planted no earlier than three years later. Otherwise, you will put the plants in danger of getting sick.

soil under planting a tomato in open ground it is necessary to prepare since autumn. So, if the acidity of the soil is increased, it is necessary to make an autumn digging per 1 square. m: 0.5-0.9 kg of lime, 5-7 kg of organic fertilizers (you can take compost, bird droppings, peat or manure) and 40-60 g of superphosphate. If you applied a sufficient amount of fertilizer - about 10 kg per sq. m, under the previous crop, then the area allotted for growing tomatoes only needs to be dug up.

Spring tillage for preparation for tomatoes should include application per 1 sq. m of soil 30-40 g of superphosphate, as well as 25-30 g of potash fertilizers. Immediately before planting, already under the last loosening of the soil, it is necessary to add 1 sq. m 15-20 g of potassium and 30-40g nitrogen fertilizers.

Planting tomato seedlings in the ground

from timely and quality fit hardened seedlings of tomatoes in the ground largely depends on obtaining a high yield.

It is necessary to plant tomatoes in the first decade of June, and only after the danger of frost has passed will warm weather be fully established. Both in ridges and on a flat surface, plants should be placed in rows, with a distance between them of 30-40 cm with a distance between rows of 30-50 cm.

Before planting on the site, it is necessary to make holes and thoroughly spill them with water - 0.9-1 l per hole. Try to purchase tomato seedlings a few hours before planting so that it does not wither - withered seedlings take root quite poorly and get sick, lagging behind in development. Those who grow seedlings on their own should not have such problems, they have the opportunity to plant seedlings in the garden immediately after they are taken out of the cups or selected from the greenhouse.

It is necessary to plant seedlings a little deeper than it grew in a greenhouse. Experienced gardeners it is advised to cut off several lower leaves of the plant and, when planting, bury them as much as possible - you can bury the plant up to half the stem, and plant it with a slight slope to the northwest. The roots of the seedlings must be carefully compressed with earth, without bending them at the same time, so that the ends of the roots are directed to the bottom of the hole. After the tomato seedlings are planted, the plants must be watered, and the hole itself must be sprinkled with dry earth on top.

Excellent results are obtained by growing under simple film shelters and on insulated soil - fallow ridges, this allows for higher yields of early tomatoes, and also accelerates the ripening of fruits.

To make steam ridges, it is necessary to dig a pit with a width of about 60 cm and a depth of about 20 cm. Biofuel must be loaded inside the ridges, in simple terms - heated manure (a layer of about 5 cm), and covered with earth 15 centimeters from above . Seedlings on steam beds should be planted in the same way as on open ground, the only difference is that planting should be started 20 days earlier, somewhere in the middle of May.

Quite often used and shelters made of transparent polyethylene film, the use of which, especially when combined with fallow beds, makes it possible to plant tomato seedlings as early as early May and, as a result, get a tomato crop as early as mid-July. Film-covered frames must be installed over the fallow beds immediately after, leaving them for the entire period of growing plants. Care for plants under the film is exactly the same as in open ground and consists of timely loosening, top dressing and the formation of bushes.

Tomato care

Caring for tomatoes primarily consists in hilling, loosening the soil, fertilizing and watering the plant, as well as forming a bush and timely control of diseases and pests.

The soil in the aisles and rows with tomatoes needs to be loosened - approximately every 10-12 days, but at least several times during the summer. When loosening, try to prevent the formation of a crust. If you are cultivating tomatoes in heavy soils, deep loosening is necessary in the first 10-15 days after planting.

The first time to spud tomatoes is necessary 9-11 days after the seedlings were planted. Watering should be done immediately before hilling: hilling the tomatoes with moist soil will accelerate the formation of new roots on the stem of the plant. The second hilling must be done 16-20 days after the first.

It is timely necessary to water the tomatoes. So, at first they are watered into the wells, the water consumption is 0.7-0.9 liters of water per plant. best time for watering is the afternoon and cloudy weather. It is imperative to water the tomatoes during the flowering period of the 1st and 2nd brush, without fail before loosening the soil and after applying dry mineral fertilizers under them. During the summer, tomatoes need to be fed several times with mineral and organic fertilizers.

Plants are undemanding to air humidity, but if the humidity is excessively high, plants can get late blight and brown spot.

The first top dressing should be carried out 10-12 days after planting - with a mixture of mineral and organic fertilizers. So, for a 10-liter bucket of mullein solution (for one part of mullein or slurry, you need to take 8-9 parts of water), you need to add about 20 g of superphosphate. One bucket of this nutrient solution should be used for 10 plants. The second and third top dressing (with an interval of 2 weeks) should be done dry mineral fertilizers immediately after loosening or under hilling. On a plot of 1 sq. m area, you need to add about 20 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium salt and 10 g of ammonium nitrate.

In the North-Western regions, in the process of caring for tomatoes, great attention must be paid to the formation of a plant bush - its timely stepsoning, as well as pinching the top of the stem. The practice of many gardeners has shown that excellent harvest mature tomatoes in the open field can be obtained by forming a plant bush into one stem, leaving 2-3 brushes.

Tomato plants need to be tied to stakes or a special rope stretched along the rows. Stakes must be placed with north side with a distance of 9–11 cm from the stem. Plants must be attached to the stakes in three stages: the first time - immediately after planting the seedlings (not far from the first leaf), the second and third - as the plant grows - we raise the cord to the level of the 2nd and 3rd brush. If trellises are used to grow the plant, stakes must be driven in every four meters, between which a thread must be pulled.

Pests and diseases of tomatoes

The most common diseases of tomatoes: late blight, macrosporiosis, streak, septoria, late blight, stolbur and top rot.

Pests: wireworms, whitefly, mole crickets, gall nematode, scoops.

The lack of most nutrients in tomato plants can be defined as follows:

with a lack of nitrogen, the color of the stem, leaves, and also the fruits of tomatoes themselves change. The leaves become smaller, yellowish in color, the veins below the leaf become red-bluish, the fruits become harder and smaller;
if the tomatoes lack phosphorus, the leaves of the plant are wrapped inside;
with a lack of potassium, the sheets become curly;
a lack of calcium leads to the fact that young leaves are completely covered with yellow spots, and the old ones become larger and change color to dark green. Often in such cases, tomato plants undergo blossom end rot, most often this occurs when the humidity of the air is increased;
with sulfur starvation, the leaves first become pale green in color, after which they intensively turn yellow, and sometimes turn red. Sulfur starvation appears first on young leaves, while the stems of plants become extremely brittle and fragile;
lack of boron leads to blackening of the growing point of the stem, and the fruits are affected brown spots;
if tomato plants lack molybdenum, the tomato leaves turn yellow, gradually twisting upwards, and the entire plate of leaves is completely affected by chlorosis;
in case of iron deficiency, tomatoes completely stop growing. Their young leaves are affected by chlorosis. In the most severe cases, the leaves of the plants turn completely white.

harvesting tomatoes

Three weeks before the final harvest, both buds and flowering shoots plants must be removed, this will contribute to the early ripening of the bulk of the fruit. Harvesting of tomatoes must be done selectively, and first of all, ugly fruits must be removed. To keep the tomatoes more time, they need to be removed not red, but brown, and only then they are put on ripening. Tomatoes must be removed from the bushes until the nighttime air temperature drops below 8 ° C. This is due to the fact that at low temperatures the risk of diseases of tomatoes increases significantly.

Varieties and hybrids of tomatoes

According to the structure of the bushes, tomatoes are divided into non-standard, standard and potato-shaped. Non-standard tomatoes are distinguished by thinner stems that lie down during the fruiting period, as well as large, slightly corrugated leaves. Standard tomatoes are distinguished by compact bushes and, conversely, have a fairly thick stem, heavily corrugated leaves, medium in size, with short petioles. Potato-like, otherwise large-leaved tomatoes are quite rare, and they are called so because they have leaves that resemble potato ones in shape.

Today, there are more than 70 varieties and hybrids of tomatoes, and this is only for cultivation in open ground, as well as over 40 varieties for greenhouses. The most common of them are listed below.

Early ripe varieties

White filling- one of the most productive varieties. The bushes of the variety are relatively small and do not need pinching. The fruits are round or round-flat, fleshy, smooth, slightly ribbed at the stem, weighing up to 130 g. Mature fruits are bright red in color, and milky white in the unripe state.

Ground Gribovsky- a variety that is resistant to both diseases and low temperatures, drought-resistant, but with high humidity very susceptible to late blight. It gives high yields not only when grown through seedlings, but also by sowing seeds directly into the ground. The fruits of the variety are round or round-flat in shape, smooth, medium in size, and weighing up to 100 g.

sparkle- low, medium-branched tomatoes. The fruits are elongated-oval, their weight reaches 110 g, and the growing season is up to 115 days. The variety is one of the most high-yielding, with tender fruits.

Mid-season and mid-late varieties

These varieties are most suitable for outdoor cultivation, the fruits ripen in 100-130 days.

New in Transnistria- medium-late and extremely productive variety. The bushes have an average height and medium-sized fruits weighing up to 60 g. The fruits themselves are orange-red or bright red, elongated-oval in shape, smooth, have a thick and rather dense shell. Resistant to blossom end rot.

Torch- the variety is very high-yielding, characterized by friendly ripening of fruits. Bushes are compact, medium-sized. The fruits are very easy to separate from the stalk, round and smooth, red in color, weighing up to 100 g.

Late-ripening varieties

Late-ripening tomato varieties are best grown in the southern regions of the country, since their growing season reaches 150 days. Late-ripening varieties are significantly superior in yield to early and mid-season ones.

Ermak- grade undersized tomatoes with round-oval and red fruits, weighing up to 140 g and have a rough skin. It is steady against cracking, differs in stable high yields and amicable ripening. The fruits of the variety are stored on plants for a long time.

tortilla- indeterminal (tall), non-standard hybrid. It is best grown in a greenhouse, fruiting all season. It has flat-round fruits weighing up to 100 g. The fruits of the variety are extremely resistant to viruses, root rot and brown spot.

Thanks to the efforts of breeders, you can grow tomatoes on the windowsill, and at any time of the year. There are many varieties that can produce good yields indoors. Growing them is no more difficult than ordinary tomatoes in the garden, moreover, they are not afraid of either drought or the Colorado potato beetle. To enjoy fresh tomatoes in the winter cold, you need to study all the nuances of such cultivation, but the most important thing is to choose the right variety.

Room conditions are significantly different from the conditions in the garden, so not every variety of tomatoes will be able to grow and bear fruit normally indoors. Varieties intended for growing on a windowsill have the following characteristics:

short stature. Due to the limited space, only low-growing and dwarf tomatoes are able to form a crop. Tall tomatoes require not only a lot of space, but also a lot of nutrients, and there is too little soil in a flower pot for this;
standardization. Not everyone knows how to form a bush correctly, but this is important condition for tomato productivity. Standard varieties have a strong central stem and a dense crown; it does not need to be pinned or tied up;
resistance to lack of lighting and disease. Houseplants get less light, especially in winter, and therefore really need additional illumination. But there are varieties of tomatoes that normally bear fruit under short day conditions, and they need illumination only on cloudy days. Their genetic feature is short internodes, due to which the stems do not stretch. Of the diseases, tomatoes are most threatened by the black leg (during the seedling growing period) and leaf mold. The most resistant to them are hybrids, which make up 90% of total number potted tomatoes.

In addition to these features, indoor tomatoes are distinguished by the highest taste qualities, and are rightfully considered champions among tomatoes in terms of the content of vitamins and sugars in the pulp. But not all of them can boast of yield, because some varieties are more decorative, and form very small, cherry-sized fruits. Of course, they are also edible, but there are too few of them, and therefore they are used most often to decorate dishes.

If you need tomatoes for daily consumption, choose productive varieties with larger fruits. As a rule, the mass of indoor tomatoes varies between 15-130 g, depending on the variety. The best of them form low bushes completely covered with fruits. On average, one bush can produce up to 2 kg of tasty, marketable tomatoes per season.

Potted tomatoes have another feature - they are perennials. If, after collecting the last fruits, the bush is not thrown away, then after a while new leaves will appear on the stem. Typically, these tomatoes grow and bear fruit within 5 years, although the most abundant crops are in the first 2 years.

The best varieties of indoor tomatoes

The range of indoor tomatoes is smaller than regular ones, but still impressive. Varieties differ in shape, size and color of fruits, height and shape of the bush, ripening time and other parameters. Every year, their list is replenished with new varieties and hybrids from leading breeding companies. Below are the most popular tomatoes for growing on a windowsill.

Name	Main characteristics
	This early ripe variety forms standard bushes up to half a meter high. Its fruits are red, round, with a high content of sugars. Unlike most potted tomatoes, tomatoes of this variety grow up to 70-100 g. With good care, the yield per plant is about 2 kg. The balcony miracle adapts well to the lack of light and can bear fruit well in winter.
	Early maturing, standard. The height of the bushes does not exceed half a meter, and the weight of bright red elongated fruits collected in clusters is 25-30 g. The pulp of these tomatoes is very tasty and fragrant, they are great for salads. AT winter time the plant needs illumination, otherwise the harvest will be rather weak
	A neat lush bush up to 30 cm high. Tomatoes of this variety have a rounded shape and rich red color, fruit weight is 25 g. With good care, each plant produces 1 kg of delicious marketable tomatoes per season
	Today it is considered the most miniature view tomatoes, the height of its bushes is only 12-15 cm. Round, small fruits (10-12 g) are yellow and red. You should not expect a big harvest from him, but in terms of decorativeness, the variety is ahead of most potted tomatoes. Ideal for winter growing, as it does not depend on the length of daylight hours
	One of the best pot varieties. Plants are not tall, maximum 30 cm, densely leafy, compact. The weight of the fruit is about 20 g, the color is red. One bush gives from 1 to 1.5 kg of tomatoes, which are suitable not only for salads, but also for canning. In the summer it can be grown in the beds, and in the fall the bushes are transplanted into pots and brought into the house.
	Its fruits ripen 85-90 days after germination. Standard variety, universal use, bears fruit well in short day conditions. His tomatoes are small, weighing 25 g, red, fragrant. The bush itself looks very decorative during the fruit ripening period.
	A popular variety valued for its high yield. The bushes have a compact shape, do not exceed 30 cm in height, do not need pinching. Its fruits are small (20-40 g), red in color, with very sweet pulp. The ovaries are collected in long brushes, and during the ripening period, the leaves are almost invisible under the fruits. The variety is resistant to low light and bears fruit well in winter.
	Yellow-fruited and early maturing variety. It can be grown both on the windowsill and in the open field. The height of standard bushes does not exceed 40 cm, the crown is dense, does not need to be formed. The weight of tomatoes is about 40 g, the yield is very high. The skin of the fruit is thin, orange, the flesh is sweet and juicy.
	A new, still rare variety. The plant is standard, 25 cm tall, during the fruiting period the entire bush is covered with clusters of yellow small round-shaped tomatoes. Fruit weight rarely exceeds 30 g, the pulp is very sweet. The variety is neutral to low light, so it bears fruit well in winter.
	Early maturing popular dutch variety. It bears fruit regardless of the time of year and the degree of illumination. The height of the bushes is about 30 cm, in the open field it can grow up to 50 cm. The weight of the tomatoes is 12-14 g, the color is red, the pulp is moderately sweet

Ampel varieties

In addition to standard varieties, amateurs indoor cultivation of tomatoes, ampelous tomatoes are also in demand. They can be planted in hanging planters or in tall pots, from which the shoots will hang beautifully on the windowsill. Caring for them is a little more difficult than for ordinary varieties, and the yield is less, but all this is offset by the great taste of tomatoes and the high decorativeness of the bush. The choice of ampel varieties is still small, and seeds can only be purchased from a few domestic agricultural firms.

Name	Characteristics
	Spreading bush with shoots up to 50 cm. The stems of the plant are thin, but strong, and do not break under the weight of numerous fruits. Stepson bush is not necessary. Round tomatoes weighing 15-20 g, when ripe, acquire a crimson color and become translucent. On one plant there can be up to three hundred fruits of a trade dress. The variety is very decorative, feels great indoors and outdoors.
	Spectacular early hybrid. It can grow vertically (but then it is necessary to tie up the stems) and as an ampelous plant. His tomatoes are round, red in color, with a characteristic tomato flavor, weighing about 30 g. The hybrid is specially bred for growing indoors, so it develops well and bears fruit regardless of the time of year
	A new productive hybrid for ampel cultivation. Shoots are slightly leafy, up to half a meter long, strong. Small red fruits have an elongated shape, mounted on long brushes of 8-10 pieces. Tomatoes are suitable for harvesting for the winter, with heat treatment do not crack. AT good conditions the yield of one bush is 1.8-2 kg
	One of the new ampel varieties. Super early, has a cascade shape of a bush, the mass of tomatoes is 25-30 g. The taste of the fruit is excellent, the average yield is about 2 kg. With a lack of lighting, the number of fruits is slightly less
	Already a fairly well-known ampelous variety domestic selection. It belongs to medium-early, the bush is quite compact, shoots up to 55 cm long. Egg-shaped fruits of red color, average weight about 40 g. When grown in open ground, the weight of fruits is almost twice as much. The variety is characterized by stretched fruiting, and very plentiful. Tomatoes are juicy, tasty, can be preserved
	Very attractive high yielding hybrid. Shoots grow up to 60 cm; the plant does not need pinching. The brushes are densely hung with small (20g) sweet red fruits, which are suitable for canning. The bush grows quickly, so it needs a lot of space. In winter, the plant must be highlighted, otherwise the yield will decrease.

Agrotechnics for growing indoor tomatoes

Like regular varieties, indoor tomatoes are best grown through seedlings. And at this stage there are no differences, except that the timing of sowing seeds is different. On average, potted tomatoes begin to bear fruit 90-100 days after germination, and if you want to get the first tomatoes by a certain date, consider this factor. For example, to take the first harvest in January, sow seeds for seedlings at the end of September.

Before sowing, the seeds are disinfected by soaking for 15-30 minutes in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, and then left in a damp cloth for a couple of days to hatch.

They are sown in a common container with ordinary soil or purchased substrate to a depth of no more than 1 cm. The distance between the seeds should be within 2-3 cm so that the seedlings are not thickened.

Seedlings are transplanted into separate containers as soon as the seedlings form 2-3 true leaves. The sizes of the pots are selected depending on the variety of tomatoes: for dwarf tomatoes, a volume of 1.5-2 liters is enough, for ordinary room ones 3-4 liters, for ampelous ones - at least 5 liters. All pots must be drainage holes. It is very important to properly prepare the soil, because the development and fruiting of the bush depends on its composition.

The best option is the following composition:

5 parts of garden soil;
2 parts sand;
5 parts of rotted compost;
1 part peat.

On a bucket of such a mixture, add a matchbox of urea and potassium sulfate, a handful of sifted wood ash. All this is thoroughly mixed. Now you can start planting seedlings.

Step 1. A drainage layer of fine gravel, pieces of bark, expanded clay or other material is poured onto the bottom of the pots. Fill the containers to the top with soil and make a small depression in the center.

Step 2 Pre-watered seedlings are carefully taken out one at a time and planted in pots, deepening to the cotyledon leaves. Water carefully.

Step 3 They put the pots on the windowsill (preferably on the south side) and regularly turn them around every 2 days with the other side facing the light. In the mornings and evenings, as well as in cloudy weather, plants should be illuminated with a phytolamp.

After a week, the plants are fed with half the dose of nitrogen fertilizers necessary for growth. During the flowering period, in order to increase the percentage of pollination, the stems of the plant are shaken very lightly and carried over the flowers with a feather or a soft brush. After the formation of the ovaries, fertilizing with potash fertilizer is required every two weeks.

In varieties that need to form a bush, stepchildren are removed, the top of the main stem is pinched, and excess inflorescences are cut off to increase the size of the fruit. Tall bushes are tied to supports that are stuck into the ground along the edge of the pot.

If there are signs of fungal infection, all plants are sprayed with phytosporin or another antifungal agent. To prolong fruiting, pluck regularly ripe fruit, remove dried leaves, do not forget about top dressing and watering. The earth in pots should be periodically loosened, trying not to hook the roots. With such care, your tomatoes will delight you all winter with a plentiful harvest of sweet, tasty fruits.

Video - Tomatoes on the windowsill in winter: the best varieties

Video - Tomatoes on the windowsill in winter: the best varieties and the procedure for growing tomatoes at home

What conditions are necessary for growing tomatoes, how to water and feed tomatoes, temperature conditions for growing tomatoes.

What determines the leaf surface area of a tomato?

The habitus (appearance) of a plant depends not only on the characteristics of the variety, but also on the formation and place of cultivation. In greenhouses and under shelters, more than large leaves, and plants occupy a larger volume, therefore, in protected ground, plants should be given a large feeding area.

In open ground and at late planting in protected ground, all stepchildren are removed from plants, leaving 2-3 brushes. This allows you to place more plants per square meter. At the same time, thickening in greenhouses leads to shading of plants, provokes the formation and rapid growth of stepchildren and delays the formation of brushes and fruits.

What area of food should a tomato have?

Copta and hybrids	Landing pattern, cm	Number of plants per 1m 2
White filling

Ground Gribovsky
Siberian precocious

Andreyka


Red Arrow



parrot
Blagovest
margarita

What are stepchildren?

Stepchildren are lateral shoots on a tomato that form in the axils of the leaves. Brushes form on them, like on a stem. On determinant varieties, the brushes appear after the 1-2nd leaf, and on indeterminate varieties - after 4-5 leaves. The strongest stepson is formed in the leaf axil under the first inflorescence. On determinant varieties, the stepson is left, forming a second stem.

When do you need to break off stepchildren?

The smaller the stepson removed, the less nutrients the plant uses in vain. In addition, a small wound remains from a small stepson, while breaking off a large stepson can cause serious damage to the stem.

How are tomato seedlings planted?

Tomato seedlings are planted in previously well-watered holes - 2-3 liters of water per hole. Before planting, 2-3 g of superphosphate is also added to the hole. If the seedlings are stretched out, then they are planted in grooves 15 cm deep, laying the stem obliquely - so as to prevent its sharp bend. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the stem section is not lower than the root system. If this happens, then the roots will form on the lower part of the stem, and the root system from which the plants were planted will die. But the formation of a new root system takes time and nutrients, during this period, the leaves of the plant grow weakly and the formation of brushes stops, which is very undesirable.

When are tomato seedlings planted?

For unprepared seedlings, frosts at 1 ° C are detrimental. If the seedlings were grown not on the windowsill, but in a film greenhouse, where they experienced temperature fluctuations, then it is more resistant to low temperatures and can withstand short-term temperature drops to -1.5 °C. Frosts in northwestern Russia are likely until June 6, so it is better to plant tomato seedlings in open ground after June 6-7. In small-sized shelters, where plants can be additionally protected from freezing, it is allowed to plant seedlings 7-10 days earlier. Tomatoes can be planted in film greenhouses without additional heating in mid-May, but additional shelters inside the greenhouse should be provided.

When is the best time to water tomatoes in a greenhouse - in the morning or in the evening?

The tomato must be watered in the first half of the day and immediately after watering, open the greenhouse for ventilation. At the same time, humidity decreases from 90-100% to 60-70% by the end of the day. At a humidity of 70-75%, optimal conditions for pollination and fruit set. Watering in the afternoon increases air humidity, which cannot be reduced by ventilation in the evening. It should be borne in mind that the high humidity of the second half of the day at night provokes the development various kinds rot.

How to determine the need for watering tomatoes?

Soil moisture for tomato must be maintained at 65-70%. To determine the moisture content, it is necessary to take a lump of soil from the depth of the main mass of roots (10-15 cm) and squeeze it in a fist. If moisture is noticeable between the clenched fingers, then the soil moisture is more than 80%, if the lump of soil does not crumble on the unclenched palm, keeping its shape, then the soil moisture is about 70%, if the soil crumbles on the unclenched palm, then the soil moisture is less than 60%, and urgent watering.

What fertilizer do tomatoes need?

Top dressing begins to give 12-15 days after planting seedlings. If the seedlings were weak, then they are fed with calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water). If the plants are large, then give complex top dressing fertilizer "KemiraUniversal-2" (20-30 g per 10 l), and the plants are watered before feeding.

The second top dressing is carried out at the beginning of fruiting with Kemira Lux fertilizer (20-30 g per 10 l), the third top dressing is carried out during the period of mass fruiting and the composition should take into account the condition of the plants. With abundant fruiting, nitrogen nutrition can be increased and fertilized with Kemira Universal-2 fertilizer. If the plants are powerful, but the fruits grow poorly, then you need to strengthen the potassium-phosphorus nutrition and give top dressing with Kemira Lux fertilizer.

How are tomato plants formed?

Superdeterminant varieties: Nevsky, Boni-M, Andreyka - you can not form, since they give small brushes with small fruits, their stepsons grow slowly and they are removed from the first four leaves.

Deterlshnapty varieties and hybrids: White filling. Agatha, Ground Gribovsky, Siberian early, Energo, Red Arrow - form into two stems, for this all stepchildren, except for the subcarpal, are removed. 2 brushes are formed on the subcarpal stepchild, and in order to prevent this stepchild from breaking off from the stem, it is tied to the main stem or trellis, on which the main stem is tied.

hybrids. Blagovest, Margarita, Chick, Bead, Parrot, Winter Cherry - form into one stem, removing all stepchildren.

What is tomato topping?

Topping a tomato is cutting off the top in order to speed up the ripening of fruits on the remaining brushes. Topping in film greenhouses is done a month before the expected last harvest.

What is the best temperature for tomato?

Tomato is a heat-loving crop. The optimum temperature for it is 22-26 ° C during the day in sunny weather and 18-20 ° C in cloudy weather. During the night hours optimum temperature- 15-18 ° С.

Increasing the temperature to 27-28 ° C accelerates the fruit filling and ripening. The air temperature above 28 ° C contributes to the rapid ripening of fruits, however, the fruits are formed small. The air temperature above 32 ° C leads to the fall of flowers, and the temperature above 37 ° C - to the fall of the ovaries.

At the beginning of the growing season, low temperatures are the limiting factor. At temperatures below 15 ° C, plants do not bloom, and at temperatures below 12 ° C, they stop growing.

Is it possible to save tomato seedlings if frosts have already begun and the seedlings are not covered?

The most dangerous period for plants during frosts is the appearance of the first rays of the sun. During frosts, cell membranes are damaged, and under the action of sunlight, the leaves dry out, therefore, if frosts have already begun, you need to water the plants with water from a watering can with a fine spray and cover them with a material that passes moisture well and dissipates Sun rays. Lightweight non-woven material is best suited for this. Covering with a film can lead to steaming and death of plants.

What to do if the planted tomato seedlings are damaged by frost?

If tomato seedlings are damaged by frost, then you should not rush to remove it from the garden and replace it with another, especially if planted valuable variety or a hybrid. Wait 6-7 days. If the surviving part of the stem remains green, then the plant can fully renew itself from stepchildren in the axils. lower leaves. Brushes on such stepchildren are formed after 2-3 leaves, the fruits are usually medium-sized, and the yield is somewhat lower than from plants not damaged by frost.

With the complete death of the entire ground part, the tomato can be renewed from a part of the stem that has been preserved in the soil. In this case, the plants form several equal stems (3-4) at once, on which one brush is left. Harvest on such stems ripens 2 weeks later than from intact plants.

Why do tomato stems split?

The most powerful subcarpal stepson can grow so intensively that sometimes it takes out a leaf with it, in the bosom of which it was laid. As a result, the stem splits into two visually equivalent shoots. At the same time, the brush is formed weak with unviable flowers. This happens most often at high doses of nitrogen and high temperature combined with low light.

What to do if a second stem has formed?

The second stem, if the plant is weak, can be removed. On a strong plant, it can be left, pinched after the formation of a brush and tied to a second trellis, so that under the weight of ripening fruits this stem does not come off the stem tied to the trellis. If this happens, the plant may die.

Why do tomato leaves curl?

Most often, the twisting of the leaves of the lower and middle tiers in a tomato is observed during the period of intensive outflow of nutrients from the leaves to the fruits. The leaves of some varieties (for example, at White filling) are boat-shaped with raised edges of the lobes. If the upper growing leaves are twisted (the so-called "chicken foot"), then this is one of the symptoms of a lack of calcium in the soil. Foliar top dressing calcium nitrate (20 g per 10 liters of water) in the evening replenish the missing calcium, and the leaves of the plant will become normal.

What is potato tomato?

Tomato leaves are complex, have lobes and lobules with varying degrees of dissection. Depending on the number and degree of dissection of the lobes, ordinary and large-lobed, or potato leaves are distinguished. Potato leaf is more common in standard undersized varieties tomato. These leaves are more compact, have a short petiole and a strongly corrugated surface.

Does the shape of the tomato brush depend on growing conditions?

The shape of the tomato brush can be simple unbranched, simple bilateral (when the axis of the inflorescence is quite long), intermediate (single branched), complex (multiple branched) and very complex. The type of brush is a genetic trait, and a variety can be determined from it. However, changes in temperature, light, mineral nutrition lead to noticeable shifts in the development of the inflorescence. So, the night air temperature at the level of 10-12 °C during the formation of the first inflorescence in plants (the period of opening of 2-3 true leaves) increases the degree of branching, and the brush is formed complex. At high night temperatures (22-24 °C), a smaller number of flowers is formed on a longer and thinner axis of the inflorescence.

Why do leaves and sometimes even stepchildren grow on the brush?

The inflorescence ends with a leaf, and the stepson continues to grow at the end of the inflorescence, most often at high humidity and with an excess of nitrogen in the soil. This phenomenon is called the growth of the brush, the fruits in such a brush are small or crumble, the flowers can fall off without opening. It is necessary to break off a sheet or stepson from the brush in a timely manner, to strengthen potassium nutrition and better ventilate the greenhouse.

How are tomatoes harvested?

Tomatoes are harvested as they ripen. For immediate consumption, red fruits are harvested, for later consumption, blanzhe (pink). Harvesting blanzhe fruits stimulates the growth of the mass of green fruits. Green fruits that have reached the size characteristic of this variety can be harvested, as they ripen well. All fruits are harvested before frost. They are sorted by size, large and medium ones are left for ripening, and small ones are salted, pickled or caviar is made from them.

How do tomatoes ripen?

Tomato fruits are ripened at temperatures above 6 °C. At lower temperatures, the fruits do not turn red and rot. Temperature 18-22 °C is the most acceptable. If it is required that the fruits ripen very quickly, then the temperature is maintained at 16-18 ° C. In this case, ripening takes 2-3 weeks. At a temperature of 12-16 ° C, ripening takes 3-5 weeks, and at a temperature of 10-12 ° C, tomatoes can be ripened up to 1.5 months, but the proportion of diseased fruits increases.

Is it bad to eat green tomatoes?

Green tomato fruits contain the substance solanine, which can be poisonous in large quantities. The content of solanine decreases as the fruits ripen, and it is not found in red, orange, yellow tomatoes. Therefore, one should refrain from excessive consumption of raw unripe fruits, as this can cause headache. In green canned fruits, the presence of solanine was not detected.

Improperly grown or early planted seedlings will not please you with a rich harvest. flower buds elongated, fragile sprouts develop poorly, fewer flowers are obtained. only healthy and strong seedlings quickly takes root in the ground, actively blooms and gives tasty and large fruits. How to plant tomatoes for seedlings so that the harvest is of high quality?

Tomato seed preparation

No matter how experienced a gardener is, he will not be able to grow an enviable fruit from a bad seed. Therefore, the choice of seeds must be approached responsibly and it is better to purchase several different types, in case any sort fails.

Seeds are sorted before sowing. Empty, damaged and small copies are removed. Experienced gardeners recommend filling them with salt water (60 grams of salt per liter of liquid) and removing from the total mass those seeds that float to the surface. To make it easier to choose the best variety in the future, it is better to store and plant seeds separately or in groups and marking where which species is.

To prevent infection of seeds, it is necessary to carry out a disinfection procedure. To do this, the seeds are placed for a day in a container with a solution of acetic acid (0.8%), after 20 minutes they are dipped in a cup with a solution of potassium permanganate (2 grams per glass of water). After the manipulations to protect the seeds are completed, they must be thoroughly rinsed with running water.

Video - correctly plant tomato seeds for seedlings

Ways to improve seed germination

warming up

The bag of seeds is lowered into a thermos with hot water for several hours, or the seeds are washed under hot water.

Enrichment with mineral fertilizers

Seeds are soaked for 24 hours in a special solution, which can be found in a specialized store or prepared independently. In one liter of pure water, you need to stir a mixture of blue vitriol, ammonium sulphate. Boric acid, potassium salt and superphosphate should also be added there.

After the seeds are processed and disinfected, they are placed in a damp cloth and germinated, constantly making sure that it does not dry out.

For better adaptation of sprouts to the climate, it is recommended to harden the seeds. Swollen seeds are sent to the refrigerator for 1-2 days, so resistance to low temperatures is developed.

Video - the process of sowing and soaking tomato seeds for seedlings

Preparing the soil mixture for seedlings

In order for the tomatoes to be large and healthy, they need to be planted in soddy soil mixed with humus and sand. To maintain normal acidity, resin and chalk should be added to the soil (for every ten kilograms of earth: resin - 0.5 l, chalk - 100 g). But you can buy ready-made soil mixture in the store or peat tablets(for one piece about two seeds), the main thing is to choose a trusted manufacturer.

Seeds must first be planted in one large container, and then the best sprouts should be picked in a separate container. Picked sprouts can be planted in special containers that are sold in gardening stores or adapted for this. plastic bottles. Remember to make drainage holes in the bottom of each container.

How to grow seedlings

When growing seeds, the main thing is to follow the rules for planting them, the temperature regime and follow the recommendations regarding watering and providing lighting to the sprouts.

The best time to plant seeds

It usually takes 1.5–2 months for tomato seeds to germinate, and accordingly, the planting time depends on the area in which they are planned to be grown. If you hurry with planting, the sprouts will form before the weather stabilizes and it will simply be impossible to plant them in the ground due to the cold weather. If you plant the seeds late, the sprouts will not have time to get stronger and will not survive after transplanting into the ground. Early spring is the best time to plant tomato seeds for seedlings.

The process of planting seeds

The prepared mixture is poured into the container, lightly crushed with palms. After that, water the soil a little with water, cover the container with a plastic bag and leave it overnight so that the moisture is evenly distributed. After the surface of the earth is leveled, I make grooves 0.5–1 cm deep at a distance of 4–5 cm from each other. Seeds are carefully placed in the recesses and covered with earth and watered again.

Temperature regime

Then the container is covered with glass or a bag and sent to a warm place where the temperature is not lower than 22 degrees - to the battery or to the windowsill (in the sun). After 5-7 days, when the first shoots hatch, the glass (film) can be removed, and the seedlings can be sent to a cooler place (up to 16 degrees), for about the same time. And when the sprouts get stronger, it is necessary to observe the temperature regime - during the day up to 24 degrees, at night not lower than 12.

It is also worth remembering that humid air is harmful to tomatoes. The room in which the containers with seedlings will be placed should be regularly ventilated. Drafts and sudden changes in temperature should be avoided so that the plants do not die.

Picking tomato sprouts

The formation of the first leaves is a sign that it is time to remove weak and unviable sprouts from the container. The root is pinched during this procedure to accelerate the growth of the root system.

But there is no need to rush into picking. Before starting the process of sorting the sprouts, you should make sure that they are strong enough, the bases should be thick. Otherwise, the pick should be postponed.

The pick is made in seedling cups, the sprouts go deep into the soil along the cotyledon leaves. With this procedure, you can reduce the stretching of the sprouts. To do this, add more light to the dived sprouts.

Lighting

In order for the seedlings to be strong and green, it needs good and long-term lighting, and in the early days even around the clock. If the windows are on sunny side, then the light of the seedlings placed on the windowsill will be enough. If the sun is not enough, you need to install several special lamps. Tomatoes are very demanding on light, so additional lighting is required.

Watering seedlings

Soil moisture must be constantly monitored. At the initial stage, a few tablespoons of water are enough, after which the volume gradually increases, but in cold weather it is necessary to water less often. Soil Watering Tips:

do not allow the soil to dry out in containers;
it is not recommended to spray the sprouts;
it is better to water with a weak solution with mineral fertilizers instead of water.

With an excess of moisture, the leaves turn yellow, and the roots gradually die off. In addition, at frequent watering sprouts can stretch, which will adversely affect the quality of future tomatoes.

Planting tomato seedlings

Before moving the sprouts into the ground, it is necessary to harden them. To do this, the seedlings are gradually accustomed to cold air: they increase ventilation, leave the windows open at night.

It is recommended to plant seedlings in late spring - early summer, when the frosts have passed, and the temperature does not drop below 15 degrees. How to determine that the sprouts are ready to "move"? If the sprout has 5-6 leaves and its stem is thick and strong, then it's time to transplant it.

Features of growing large tomatoes:

you need to plant seedlings in a well-lit place, protected from the wind;
the most suitable watering regimen is 2 times a week;
it is better to use light, sandy and loamy soils;
sprouts are planted in pre-prepared and spilled holes at a right angle;
you need to plant sprouts at a distance of 30-40 cm from each other;
it is necessary to prepare the soil before planting, fertilize it;
next to each sprout, you should stick a peg for support;
between rows should be at least 60 cm.

Harvesting is done when the tomatoes turn red. If you pick green tomatoes, then this will affect their taste.

Video - how to plant tomato seedlings in a greenhouse

Mistakes when growing tomato seedlings

The main mistakes of a bad tomato crop:

poor quality seeds;
planting seeds for seedlings too early or vice versa very late;
non-compliance with the temperature regime;
improper watering (abundant or insufficient);
poor lighting quality;
refusal of hardening procedures.

A good harvest directly depends on the quality of seedlings. Therefore, you need to responsibly approach the choice of seeds, it is better to take several varieties and subsequently choose the best one, the most adapted to your area and weather conditions. Before planting, sort out low-quality seeds and process good ones. Prepare the soil mixture, plant the seeds and provide them with proper care. Only if the above recommendations are followed can we hope for a large and tasty harvest.

Growing tomatoes is an easy task. A novice gardener will also cope with this. However, tomatoes require constant care and attention. The specificity of handling these vegetables is related to their variety (early to late ripening) and other characteristics of the variety. Also, weather conditions and soil type affect the features of plant processing procedures.

Growing tomatoes is a simple task, but it also has its own nuances.

Varieties

According to one of the classifications, tomatoes are divided into:

determinant (the main stem grows to a limited extent): variety "Palace";
indeterminate (unlimited growth): varieties "One Hundred Pudov", "Money Bag".

Varieties of tomatoes are diverse in relation to the length of daylight hours and care features. Some of them bear fruit in light conditions of no more than 12 hours. The yield obtained from other varieties is not affected by the length of daylight hours.

There are also varieties for open ground ("Agata", "Castalia", "Stresa" and others), greenhouse ("Verlioka", "Red Arrow", " bull heart", etc.), heat-resistant ("Astrakhan", "Qingdao", "King King").

You can grow a crop different color: white, pink, yellow or green. There are fruits of dark color (purple, black), which contain beta-carotene, antioxidants.

Agata tomato - an excellent variety for open ground

Site selection

For growing tomatoes in open ground, illuminated southern areas are chosen on slopes protected from winds from the north. The soil is suitable light, acidity neutral or weak. It is better to choose sandy loamy areas - this will contribute to the development of fruits and facilitate care.

As predecessors for planting these vegetables are suitable:

cucumbers;
carrot;
zucchini;
cabbage.

other tomatoes;
peppers;
eggplant.

Tomatoes should not be planted in the garden after pepper

Soil preparation

For the preparation of seedling soil mixtures take (in parts):

peat - 7;
sod land - 1;
sawdust - ½.

Another variant:

peat - 1;
humus - 1;
mullein - 1/2;
sawdust - ½.

Another self-prepared land for vegetables:

peat - 6;
humus - 3;
river sand - 1.

Such soil is stored in the winter on the street so that it freezes, and with the onset of spring they are distributed in seedling containers.

The land for seedlings is steamed. To do this, take a metal enameled container and cover the bottom with a suitable inverted tin from under the fish.

Previously, from 20 to 30 holes (diameter 5-7 millimeters) are punched in this bank. One and a half liters of water is poured into a container, poured soil, closed and put on medium heat for 60 minutes. After the time has elapsed, the earth is thrown into a box to cool it down.

Fertilizers are added to the prepared mixture (in kilograms, per 1 cubic meter):

superphosphate - 4;
ammonium nitrate - 1.5.

Mineral top dressing is also used later, after planting the seeds. When preparing beds on open ground, fertilizers are applied per square meter of land:

organic - 10 kilograms;
with a content of phosphorus and potassium - 20 grams (in the autumn period);
with a nitrogen content - 10 grams (in the spring).

In October, the site is dug up to a depth of 30 centimeters, leaving large earthen clods. Loosen twice in spring (up to 10 cm deep). At the same time, ash is brought in so that it has time to neutralize by the spring.

Tomatoes love the addition river sand into the ground

Seed preparation

The secrets of growing tomatoes are associated with the preliminary preparation of seeds. First, planting material is sorted. Choose seeds large size, correct in form. The rest are thrown away.

Before sowing, the selected seeds are wrapped in several layers of gauze. Then put for 20 minutes in a warm manganese solution (half a glass of water per 1 gram of the substance) to disinfect. After the time has elapsed, the seed material, without taking it out of the gauze, is washed in running water for several minutes.

Coarse calico fabric soaked in a growth stimulant solution (sodium humate) is laid out in several layers on a baking sheet or pallet. Seeds are distributed from above, making notes where which variety is located. Surface with unfolded planting material wrapped in polyethylene.

After put in a place with a temperature of 25 to 30 degrees. A day later, it is rearranged for 3-4 hours in the lower part refrigerator compartment. After 20 hours, they are placed back in heat. The procedure is repeated three times and the surface with seeds is left in a warm place until seedlings appear (for 3-5 days).

Tomato seeds should be laid out on a fabric impregnated with a growth stimulator

Seedling

The cultivation of tomatoes is carried out seedling method. In order to grow seedling bushes, use boxes made of plastic or wood measuring 28 by 32 centimeters and a side of 6 cm in height. Prepared soil is poured inside by 5 centimeters, tamped a little and, using a ruler, parallel grooves are laid at a distance of a couple of centimeters.

The time for planting seeds is determined by the time when the seedlings are transplanted into open ground. It is grown 45-80 days before transplantation. To obtain early seedlings, planted seeds are illuminated with a lamp for 14-16 hours. If the lighting is not enough, potassium-based fertilizers are applied.

Seeds are planted 1-2 centimeters deep in prepared grooves. Then cover with polyethylene and set in a warm place until shoots appear. It is better to grow seedlings and take care of them at a temperature of 20-25 degrees before picking in clear weather and 18-20 degrees in cloudy weather. When the picking is done, then for the next 7 days the temperature is maintained at 25-27 in the daytime in the sun (from 20 to 22 degrees in cloudy weather) and 14-17 degrees at night.

A week later, the temperature is maintained at 20-25 on a clear day (18-20 - cloudy) and from 8 to 10 degrees at night. The pick is carried out when 1-2 true leaves appear (in the third week). Two weeks before transplant open ground seedlings are hardened off. Watering is reduced, seedlings are accustomed to the rays of the sun (for several hours daily).

Care for sprouts consists in periodic spraying with melt moisture or a weak manganese solution. When shoots appear, they are fertilized once every one and a half weeks. Solutions are used for this. bird droppings(100 g per bucket of water) or manure (300 g per bucket of water). The rest of the time, the sprouts are watered with warm moisture (20-22 degrees).

Tomato sprouts should be sprayed with a weak solution of potassium permanganate

disembarkation

Pegs are driven into the soil of the site at a distance of 1 meter along the perimeter of the territory and ropes are pulled between them. A ditch is dug along them to the depth of the bayonet, its bottom is loosened and organic fertilizers (manure, humus) are placed inside. Stakes are driven into the bottom and a wire is pulled between them for the later tomato garter.

A bush ready for planting is a plant 35 centimeters high, it has 10 leaves and flowers have already appeared, the roots are developed. Seedlings are planted in open ground in the second decade of June. Each of the sprouts is planted together with a clod of earth to the level of the cotyledon leaves. Watered so that the earth settled, and mulched on top.

The planting pattern depends on the variety of tomatoes:

early ripe - according to the scheme 30 by 40 centimeters;
mid-season - 35 to 45;
late-ripening - 50 to 50.

Tomatoes are ready for planting when they have their first flowers.

Watering

Sprouts are abundantly watered during fruit formation. If you water the beds excessively at the beginning of the growing season, you will not be able to grow a rich crop. In this case, the green organs of plants develop excessively, and the growth of the root system slows down. This leads to diseases and weakening of vegetables, dropping color and ovaries.

Watering care differs depending on the variety. For one bush of varieties that ripen quickly, you need half a bucket warm moisture. Watered in several doses, twice or thrice from the time of disembarkation until mid-summer. Mid-ripening tomatoes are watered every 7 days in the heat and dryness, or once every 14 days in the absence of showers, and late-ripening varieties - 2 times more often.

If the beds lack moisture, then the foliage becomes dark green in color, covered with fluff. If watering is insufficient, then the foliage acquires a light green color.

From excessive watering, tomato tops grow

Fertilizer

Plant care includes two feeding beds:

3 weeks after planting seedlings in the ground;
20 days after the first time - at the stage of fruit formation.

To prepare liquid fertilizers, top dressing is dissolved in a bucket of water (in grams):

nitrogen - 25;
phosphorus - 40;
potassium - 15.

Potassium affects the viability of vegetables (this is important in low light conditions). Phosphorus promotes flowering and the formation of ovaries.

Such a mixture is consumed for the first time for 15 plants, for the second time - for 7. Also, dry mineral dressings are used as fertilizer, which are buried in the aisles. In this case, 5 g of nitrogen and 10 g of phosphorus and potassium mineral nutrients are used per square meter.

Potassium compensates for the lack of light

Other procedures

Growing a tomato in a greenhouse requires opening the room during the day (if the air temperature rises above 25 degrees). If the night temperature drops below 12 degrees, then it is completely closed. If the nights are warm, then the window is slightly opened for ventilation.

The care of the beds also includes pinching. Side shoots that grow in the axils of the foliage are removed so that nutrients are not consumed on them. This operation is important for varieties of medium and late ripeness. The first time the procedure is carried out when they reach a length of 5 to 7 centimeters. This happens 21 days after planting. Further, the operation is performed systematically.

For tall varieties, not only pinching is carried out, but also pinching the growth point (in the first decade of August).

Stepchildren and brushes of plants are tied to pre-tensioned cables or ropes on the territory of the site. Tying helps to grow an excellent crop.

If the air temperature is too high, then it is advised to shade greenhouse plantings. A white non-woven fabric is hung over the beds or sprinkling is carried out in the evening. They also loosen the soil, weed weeds and spud beds twice or thrice per season.

At night temperatures below +12, the windows in the greenhouse should be closed

For growing and caring for tomatoes and cucumbers, it is better to use different greenhouses. Tomatoes prefer dryness, cucumbers like moisture.
If tomato cultivation takes place on acidic soil, it is limed at intervals of three to four years.
Transplant seedlings promptly. Overgrown plants take root with difficulty in the open field and get sick.
If you overfeed the plantings with nitrogen substances, in combination with low temperatures, this will lead to the loss of ovaries.
Water plants under the root. With high humidity and water getting on the foliage, a fungus occurs on plantings.
To activate the formation of ovaries, it is recommended to use a solution of boric acid. A gram of the substance is taken per liter of hot water, cooled and sprayed with tomatoes during the flowering period.
To improve pollination, insects are attracted to plants. When flowering begins, plantings are sprayed with a mixture of sugar (100 grams) and boric acid (2 grams) dissolved in a liter of hot water.
To attract pollinators, containers with diluted honey are also hung (a teaspoon per 250 g of water). In order not to avoid the death of insects, pesticides are not used during the flowering period.
To speed up the ripening of fruits, it is recommended to stop watering and remove the tops, and in the last decade of July - flowers and buds.

Correct information on how to properly grow tomatoes will help the gardener avoid mistakes in caring for tomato beds. By following the recommendations and favorable climatic conditions just get a crop of these vegetables in conditions middle lane Russia.