Do-it-yourself antique doors made of wood. Do-it-yourself heat treatment of antique wooden doors

What are the types of hinges and how to install them correctly. One of the most important elements of the door structure are hinges. This mechanism is quite simple and compact.

Let's define the differences and features of each type of door hinges

Depending on what types of hinges are used, a certain method of their installation should be chosen. The tie-in process is not very laborious, however, the wrong choice of products and further installation can lead to unpleasant consequences, in particular, to skewing of the wings.


Specialists have developed several classifications according to which hinges for doors differ, for example:

  • By location;
  • According to the material used;
  • By design.
  • In addition, hinges for interior doors can be of two types - detachable and universal. The first type is different in that it allows you to remove the door from the frame if necessary. The hinges remain in place. Products of the second type must be unscrewed from the frame in order to remove the canvas.
    As for the material, the hinges can be made from steel, brass and various alloys. A special type is overhead loops with a tie-in. They consist of two fragments. One part is attached to the end side of the canvas, and the second - to the door frame. During the installation process, professional assistance may be required, since the process is quite laborious. Properly installed universal hinges on home doors can last for many years, since they are practically not subject to abrasion during operation.
    Universal door hinge without tie-in also consists of two parts. Installation is carried out in the same way as described above, but without processes requiring special training. The work is quite simple, can be performed without sophisticated equipment. The main advantages of this type are:

  • Low cost;
  • Possibility of long-term operation;
  • Availability.
  • Unlike previous types of products, the design of screw-in hinges includes pins equipped with threads. They are usually used on doors with an influx. Models with two or three pins can be used. In rare cases, four-pin products are installed if the doors are too heavy. They are adjustable in different planes - horizontally, vertically and clamp. To reduce the noise level during operation, it is recommended to choose hinges for interior home doors equipped with a plastic insert, as shown in the photo.

    Varieties of products according to the method of fastening


    Hinges for doors are divided into three types according to their method of fastening, and also have the corresponding letter designations:

  • Overhead (H);
  • Mortise (B);
  • Screwed (Vv).
  • When using overhead loops, their parts are attached to the box and the canvas by means of screws. This method of attachment, which can be seen in the photo, is the most popular. Regardless of the total weight of the door structure, they are used on various types of doors, such as room, bar and many others.


    When using hinges marked B, their wings cut into the box itself and the canvas. This procedure is carried out after preparing a specific seat using a chisel. Typically, such hinges are attached to the entrance doors, as they provide special strength and reliability.
    The last type, screw-in, has the form of a pin, on which there is a special thread. This pin must be completely screwed into the canvas and the box. It is desirable that the work be performed by a professional, since during the installation process it is necessary to adhere to maximum accuracy. In addition, you need to make sure that the frame of the canvas or box does not split when screwed in. In some cases, damage may occur, as shown in the photo. In addition, such hinges are designed for interior doors that weigh no more than 25 kg.
    Depending on the height of the loops, certain sizes of fasteners, as well as their number, should be taken into account. The table below shows the main parameters. The first column indicates, the second - the size of the screws, the third - the number of fasteners (all dimensions are given in millimeters).

    Other types of structures

    In addition to the above types, hinges for doors can be hidden and bar. Some of them also require tie-ins. Unlike many other models, bar loops are quite rare. The design features are that it allows you to open doors in any direction. They are recommended to be selected in the case when it becomes necessary to open the doors in both directions, as shown in the photo.
    Hidden hinges, like many other types of products, consist of two main parts, which are attached using the tie-in method. Often they are used for Finnish doors. The main advantage is that they remain completely invisible when the doors are in the closed position. Such hinges for Finnish door panels are folded during the closing process.
    Like most mechanisms, both of the above types of structures - both bar and hidden - are equally reliable, and after proper installation can be used for a long time. At the same time, their cost is not very high, and the appearance (except for hidden ones) favorably distinguishes the entire structure of the doors. Although you can do the installation yourself, it is recommended that you contact the masters so that they carry out the installation, adhering to the standards as much as possible. In some cases, the doors are already equipped with such parts, in particular for Finnish products, this can greatly facilitate the work.

    The process of tapping door hinges, installing door hinges

    Hinges on bar doors are usually not fastened using the tie-in method. This method is used in the process of installing interior doors. First of all, a universal door hinge must be selected, which will correctly fit into the slot cut out for it.
    For added convenience, you should put the canvas, as shown in the photo - on a long edge. In this case, the keyhole should be at the bottom. To correctly mark the contour of the location of the hinge, it is necessary to attach it to the door leaf, and then circle it with a pencil. It is recommended to temporarily fasten the part with self-tapping screws so that it does not slip.
    The universal door hinge can be cut using a special construction tool - a milling cutter. If there is no such device, you can use a regular sharpened chisel and a hammer. The loop is circled around the contour with a knife. The depth of the incision should be 2-3 mm. If forged hinges for home doors are mounted, and the contour has slightly rounded sections, this task can become much more complicated. As the radius decreases, the level of complexity of the work is increased.
    Rectangular hinges are best mounted using a chisel, and rounded products must be installed with a router. Having attached the loop to the chosen place, it is necessary to fix it so that it sits very tightly in this recess. There shouldn't be any gaps. While holding the part, a few holes are drilled with a drill into which the screws will be screwed. In this case, cracking of the canvas should not occur.
    Then, with the help of self-tapping screws, each universal door hinge is fixed. The heads of the fasteners must be deeply recessed into the wood, and not peek out above the part. In the case of using detachable loops, which are shown in the photo, both halves are folded together and then applied to the box rack. The rest of the insertion process is identical to that described above.

    Varieties of door hinges "butterfly"

    Recently, a special type of loop has become popular - the "butterfly". During the installation process, it is not necessary to use the tie-in method. As a result, the installation process is much easier than in other cases. This model got its name due to its appearance - if the part is expanded, then the open parts will resemble butterfly wings. If you add them together, then one part will be nested in another.
    There are various types of door hinges that are shaped like a butterfly. They are designed for conventional doors and structures with an additional bend. Installation is quite simple, but difficulties can arise even with minor errors. For example, due to defects in the design of the loop or web, deviations from the plane occur. As a result, the installed universal door hinge does not allow the leaf to close well.
    Sometimes the hinges on interior Finnish interior doors prevent parts of the hinges from fully aligning with each other after closing. Errors also lead to the fact that after installation, closing the door, you can pull out the screws. The whole structure will begin to spring strongly. Ordinary hinges on a defective home or office door can result in the need to further deepen the seat for this part at a certain point. However, if damaged butterfly loops are used, more serious problems will appear. In order not to violate the integrity of the canvas, it is recommended to use plastic or cardboard linings. Hinges on interior home doors will be raised and fold without difficulty.
    If you use such pads, then the installation process will be a little more complicated, and this will become a significant problem, you should choose other hinges in which both parts are slightly apart at a slight angle. This will eliminate the use of linings. It should be borne in mind that after the completion of the installation work, the door installed with butterfly hinges is very difficult to remove. To do this, the parts will have to be completely unscrewed.

    5 /5 (1 )

    The classic interior becomes so thanks to the details, a rather important of which is the door. You can buy already finished antique furniture in the salon, restore the old one or make the existing one old. Truly antique items cost a fortune, but just old ones can lose their functionality. There remains the option of artificial aging.

    Peculiarities

    A door that looks antique can be made on your own or you can purchase a product stylized antique.

    Features of such products:

    • Such a stylistic decision has no analogues, while modern styles are more typical.
    • They create a special atmosphere. Antiques are associated with respectability. That's why pseudo-antique things are so popular.
    • material individuality. If natural wood is used, the uniqueness of its texture is emphasized.
    • Illusory - create an effect that is not really there.
    • Symmetry and proportionality are the main features of the classics.
    • The high cost does not become an obstacle for connoisseurs of taste. In addition, any model can be reduced in price by choosing a different material or by refusing decorative inserts, columns, pilasters.
    • Accessories should not only fulfill their function, but also be an element of decor.

    Kinds

    All semi-antique doors can be conditionally divided into:

    • Input(perform the function of protection against thieves and external influences; they are subject to increased requirements for heat and sound insulation, strength).
    • Interroom(the main function is to create privacy and separate zones of different purposes). They must be aesthetic and fit into the overall design of the apartment or a separate room.

    By type of opening and closing doors can be:

    • sliding;
    • folding;
    • hinged.

    Sliding systems are less appropriate in a classic interior. But if there is a need to install them (there is furniture next to the opening or the entrance to another room is blocked), you should choose metal profiles in the color of bronze, brass, silver or gold.

    folding are also practical in terms of space saving. The narrow canvases that make up such a door can be a great addition to the classic style.

    The most acceptable in the classics will look swing doors. They can be left, right or pendulum. If the room is large and the doorways are wide, you can install a double door. Since symmetry is important in a classic interior, the doors should be the same in width.

    Remember the details - the loops in this case may not be hidden, but overhead. As an independent element of decor, they can also be of a certain shade, with scuffs and even rust imitation.

    According to the type of construction, models can be:

    • framework;
    • with inserts (panels);
    • deaf;
    • glazed;
    • arched.

    As inserts can be: glass, mirrors, stained glass, specially processed wood with metal, plastic and leather lining. Glass can be: standard, frosted, tinted, with drawings. Patterns or picturesque images are used as a drawing.

    Depending on how the surface of the door is finished, there are:

    • canvases covered with plastic, film, enamel or paint;
    • with a transparent coating (varnishes);
    • with laminate, natural or artificial veneer finish;
    • upholstered in textiles, leather and leatherette.

    materials

    The main ways of processing a door for its aging are:

    • chemical(with the help of alkaline compounds that act on the soft tissues of the tree);
    • mechanical(consists in the formation of chips, cracks with the help of special tools);
    • thermal(using a torch or blowtorch).

    Usually aged doors are combined - when the frame is made of one material, and the insert is made of another.

    Insert (panel) can be:

    • flat - that is, smooth, without protrusions;
    • volumetric - with milling around the perimeter;
    • type-setting - from several docked lamellas.

    It is more practical to use MDF as a panel, as a wood panel can dry out and damage the frame.

    The effect of aging on plastic is unattractive, as the material can warp and change color. Metal and MDF have a homogeneous structure. Mechanical methods of material processing cannot be applied to them. But you can use the finish of the film, plastic or veneer.

    Wood is the most suitable material option for all of the above processing methods. This is a material with a pronounced structure. Moreover, the structure is emphasized not only by the bulge, but also by the color (growth rings look especially bright against a light background).

    Hardwoods - oak, beech, walnut - are durable, but expensive. Soft breeds - birch, pine - are less dense, but more affordable in price.

    Historically, craftsmen were the first to manufacture. Subsequently, handicraft production was replaced by mass machine production. Doors from massive and monolithic have become light and multi-component.

    Today, for pseudo-antique doors, the most practical material is MDF, covered with veneer or film. Used veneer of dark and light oak, mahogany, walnut, wenge, maple, rosewood. The film imitates the texture and pattern of wood, and it can also be colored.

    Fashion for retro

    Aged doors are classic and, judging by the trends, will always be in demand.

    There are several reasons why this happens:

    • Classic doors are synonymous with wealth. Wealthy people will always strive to emphasize their status. And people who do not have the opportunity to purchase such expensive things and who are the majority will use stylized doors. In addition, there are a lot of such options on the market, different in colors, shape, decor and material. Moreover, the door is the hallmark of an apartment or room, by which you can judge its owner.
    • Antique doors create a special mood. Office premises, shopping centers, and almost all premises in which a person spends most of his time, are decorated in modern style, high-tech and the like. Therefore, having crossed the threshold of his house, a person wants to relax, feel comfortable.

    • There are areas that use light pastel shades, and they have a calming effect on the human psyche and nervous system.
    • Despite the intricate appearance, they are very practical. Hardwood doors are durable, and treated with special impregnations, they can be used in bathrooms and rooms with temperature fluctuations. A wide choice of materials will provide you with pleasure for years to come.
    • Special processing techniques are available to people without special skills. This is a great opportunity for creativity, the manifestation of their individuality. A handmade thing is especially expensive.

    Manufacturers Overview

    The most popular (according to reviews and search queries on the Internet) manufacturers of classic-style doors made of solid wood and MDF are:

    • Sofia;
    • "Volkhovets";
    • "Alexandria Doors";
    • "Ocean";
    • "Europan";

    • Dariano;
    • matadoor;
    • "Alvero";
    • RuLes;
    • "Dera".

    Manufacturers who are confident in the quality of their products have long warranty periods. In addition, they provide delivery and assembly services.

    How to grow old with your own hands

    There are several ways to make a new or already used door aged:

    • brushing- removal of soft tissues of the tree. To do this, we evenly draw along the fibers with a special iron brush. The surface is then sanded and varnished. This is the most plausible method.
    • Patination. First, a dark layer of paint is applied, it should be even. Then light paint is applied and, after drying a little, certain areas are wiped with a rag. Sanded with sandpaper and varnished.
    • Craquelure. The purpose of this method is to create cracks. First, a craquelure varnish is applied to the wooden surface, then a bitumen-based composition, and then a contrasting acrylic paint. Cracks can also be highlighted with paint, but this must be done very carefully.
    • With the help of a stain. It is applied with a brush or sponge, lifts the fibers and makes them more embossed. It is applied in several layers, after drying it is rubbed with wax.
    • With the help of paraffin- initially dark paint is applied, then the necessary areas are rubbed with paraffin and the entire surface is painted with light paint. Paraffin is peeled off, the resulting pattern must be sanded and covered with stain.

    The door leaf must first be prepared. To do this, remove the hinges and handles, remove the glass. Using a building hair dryer, remove the paint and sand the surface. Chips are rubbed with putty. The surface is degreased.

    Such work does not require special skills. All that is required is the desire to create a unique door.

    Beautiful examples in the interior

    In its narrow sense, antique doors can mean doors made in one of the directions of the classical style:

    • Gothick style. A door in this style should be only natural shades, with a large number of glass inserts or iron linings, with forging. This is where the original pointed top comes in. The product should give the impression of strength and solidity. Due to their massiveness, such models are more suitable for exterior doors.
    • Baroque- characterized by an abundance of silver, copper, bronze and, of course, gilding. Decorated with ornate three-dimensional carving imitating modeling. Slopes can be columns or additional side panels. Cornices, porticos are installed above the door. The main feature of this style is the creation of the illusion of wealth and luxury. It is focused on large "palace" sizes, therefore, the doors are installed in large sizes.

    It is incredibly fashionable to include objects that have survived the centuries in a modern interior, although it is very expensive. But this is not a reason for frustration, because you can safely refuse to buy rarities in favor of self-aging wooden furniture in the house. For example, specially aged doors can easily give a room a mysterious archaism.

    Door aging methods

    To bring something alternative into the interior, the designers have developed a lot of options for artificially aging the door leaf.

    Preparatory activities

    No matter how different the ways to make the door archaic, the preparation for these works is the same. It includes:

    1. Dismantling the door leaf and removing fittings.
    2. Scraping off old paint or varnish with a rubber trowel after special heating with a building dryer.
    3. Puttying the surface in order to mask cracks and other defects.
    4. Grinding aimed at eliminating irregularities.

    Further actions depend on what you want to achieve by aging the door.

    Video: removing old paint as preparing a door for aging

    brushing

    Using brushing, you can change the pattern and color of the door leaf made of wood of almost any species, excluding maple, alder, cherry, pear and beech. The technology is based on the removal of the fibers of the top layer of wood with a brush with metal bristles and the use of black, orange, green, purple or red dyes that turn ordinary forest material into an exotic one.

    After brushing, the door looks mottled, because dark and light areas appear on it contrasting with each other

    Brushing is done as follows:


    Video: how to make wood look older with cracks

    Patination

    They resort to patination, trying to give an ordinary wooden product a more interesting look with the help of a plaque that emphasizes the beauty of the carving.

    Initially, patina was a greenish oxide film on a blue or green copper product. And now this is the name of any plaque that eventually appears on metal or wood, as well as the effect of aging furniture.

    To create a film on the surface of wood, acrylic paint or a special varnish of brown, gold, red and green shades is used.

    To this end:

    1. The door leaf is put in order with a rag and sandpaper.
    2. The wood is treated with a primer.
    3. When the door dries, a base coat is applied to it - a coloring matter of a suitable, for example, green shade (patina).

      Patina allows you to make the color of the wood more interesting and uneven.

    4. After 24 hours, the initial layer of paint is sanded with sandpaper and treated with color again.
    5. Paint with a golden or bronze tint is smeared or sprayed onto certain sections of the door, specifically increasing the degree of aging of the door leaf.

      Some sections of the door are covered with golden paint, which makes the impression that the door is old is enhanced.

    6. To give the color juiciness, the wooden surface is treated with a matte or glossy varnish.

    Video: decorating the door with patination

    Scuff formation

    Wanting to nobly age the door, they create scuffs. Their appearance is achieved by means of wax or paraffin.

    The door is treated with a viscous substance as follows:

    1. The door leaf is covered with dark paint and dried for two days.
    2. Wax is smeared on separate sections of the door. They don’t try to make any drawing - the viscous composition is applied randomly.

      Wax will make some places of the wooden product brighter, which will make it seem that other parts of the door are frayed.

    3. The wood is re-stained, but for this, a composition is used that is several tones lighter than previously applied.
    4. Wax is carefully scraped off the canvas, under which places are hidden, treated only with a dark coloring emulsion.
    5. They wait for several days for the canvas to dry completely, and then rub it diligently with sandpaper.
    6. The old look acquired by the door is emphasized with a stain that can highlight the texture of the tree.

      The door can be processed not only with simple, but also with colored wax

    Video: how wax creates scuffs on wood

    Stain processing

    For painting the door with a stain or, in other words, blackening, they take it, wanting to add several decades to the age of the door in an easy way. The problem is solved step by step:

    1. Solid wood is kept in a place that is well ventilated for several days, thereby allowing the material to get rid of dampness.
    2. The wooden canvas is rubbed with sandpaper, moving along the fibers.
    3. In order to find out how well a wooden product can absorb the composition for blackening, a special test is carried out: the stain is applied to a board made of the same wood as the door. Often after this they come to the conclusion that one layer of a special agent will not be enough.

      To determine the number of layers of stain, the agent must first be applied to a test board

    4. Using a brush, rag or sponge, stain is applied to the wooden door with quick movements. Until the composition has had time to dry, it is distributed over the surface with a dry and soft rag, removing excess. Usually the product is treated with stain in 2-3 steps.

      The stain is smeared on the wood with quick movements, working with gloves

    5. After waiting for the surface of the door to become completely dry, sanding is performed with a piece of coarse cloth. First, the rags are drawn along the wood fibers, and then diagonally.
    6. A door with a dense layer of stain is treated with varnish or wax.

      Stained doors look quite picturesque

    Blackening is most often carried out with a water-based agent, which contributes to better absorption of the composition and its uniform spread over the surface, but, unfortunately, slows down the drying process of the material. True, this minus is almost not taken into account, since, penetrating into the pores for a long time, the stain with water content forms a clear relief on the wood.

    Video: what happens to wood after staining

    Crackling

    An interesting way to age a door leaf is to streak it with cracks. The technique is called crackling and involves the use of a special kind of paint through which you can see which coating was applied to the surface first.

    Unlike a conventional paint and varnish composition, the composition for creating crackle (a pattern of fine cracks on the glazed surface of ceramic products) dries faster. Contacting with a simple paint, a special agent draws water out of it, thereby forming a slippery surface on which the varnish or other coating is wrinkled.

    Crackling forms a simple mesh pattern on the door

    Craquelure on the surface of the door can be one- and two-component. The first option is simple and can be applied at home, and the second is complex, which is why it is suitable only for craftsmen involved in the creation of rare items and the restoration of ancient art objects.

    One-component craquelure on the door is created step by step:

    1. The door leaf is dried and rubbed with sandpaper, eliminating minor wood defects.
    2. Two acrylic paints of contrasting colors are selected, the difference between which is clearly visible. One of the compositions should be darker, and the other lighter.
    3. With a roller or a wide brush, the first layer of paint is distributed over the wooden product. What it will be - light or dark - does not matter.
    4. As soon as the initial layer of the coloring matter hardens, a special varnish is applied to the surface to create a special pattern - crackle. If you want the wrinkles to be especially deep, the composition is smeared with a thick layer.

      To create a coating with crackle, you need to use a set of special paints and varnishes

    5. Without waiting for the first layer of coloring emulsion to dry, the door is painted again using a composition of a different tone and a brush with soft bristles that will not scratch the fragile crackle shell.

      The applied crackle becomes covered with cracks after some time

    6. Noticing that cracks appeared on the door, indicating the hardening of the crackle composition, the surface of the product is treated with a finishing acrylic varnish.

    When crackling, it is allowed to use more than two layers of coloring emulsion of various tones. Crackle is able to penetrate a large number of layers of paint, forming a fancy pattern.

    Two-component crackling, reminiscent of a long-cracked lacquer coating over a pattern (for example, painting), appears on the door as follows:

    1. The wooden product is degreased by wiping with white spirit, dried and polished, removing burrs.
    2. In several approaches, the surface is treated with shellac alcohol varnish, which improves the adhesion of all compositions to wood.
    3. After making sure that the door has become dry, a craquelure agent is applied in two layers. The second layer of a special composition is used after the first one has hardened.
    4. Dried craquelure, that is, a coating with cracks that have appeared, is painted over with oil paint or grated pastel.

    Video: how one-component craquelure turns a wooden product into an antique

    Chemical processing

    Chemicals are capable of giving a wooden piece of furniture an antique look: ammonia, alkaline products used for washing stoves, and copper sulfate.

    Aging a door chemically is only allowed if it is made of hardwood, i.e. ash, oak, poplar, beech, cherry and maple. In a word, tannins must be present in the material of the door leaf for processing with special chemicals.

    Thanks to chemical treatment, especially dark spots can be obtained on the door.

    Chemical treatment of the door includes the following steps:


    The chemical method to make a door an antique piece of furniture is dangerous to human health. They are allowed to be used only when it is possible to process a wooden product in the open air, observing all safety instructions.

    Video: alkali effect on wood

    thermal method

    Relief and rich dark color can be endowed with a wooden door through heat treatment. Burning with a blowtorch or gas burner is great for softwood products.

    The degree of influence of the apparatus is chosen, guided by personal considerations. The deeper the heat treatment is carried out, the more pronounced the effect of aging will be.

    Thermally aged doors will interest those who like the relief of wood

    To burn a wooden canvas, you need:


    Video: decorative firing of wood

    In order to own a truly cozy home, in which you can see the beauty, emphasized by the effect of antiquity that fits well into the environment, you need to decide in advance what the architectural style of the building and the design of the room will be.

    It’s hard not to agree with the fact that a dilapidated door with wrought iron details looks like an extra element in a high-tech concrete or glass room. No less strange, such a product will look in a room decorated in eco-design, cubism, constructivism, minimalism or Wright's style. They are created with clear lines and clash with any signs of pretentiousness characteristic of the past.

    Artificially aged wooden objects will not spoil, but will decorate the interior if it is decorated in the following directions:

    • the style of a Russian estate, where the stove stands in the middle of the house, surrounded by wooden objects, devoid of all sorts of frills;

      A room decorated in the style of a Russian estate can only be filled with simple, artless interior items.

    • Art Nouveau, paying close attention to the smallest details and bringing architecture closer to the fine arts;
    • alpine style (chalet), based on a combination of brick, wood, painting and parquet;
    • baroque, striving for grandeur and pomp, that is, for the use of luxuriously finished wooden furniture, especially those that have gilding;
    • Victorian and Gothic styles, which are characterized by an ensemble of stone and wood and dark colors - brown and black;

      A room decorated in the Gothic style loves darkness, that is, it needs wood, which was specially given a black tint.

    • classicism, which emphasizes the expansion of space, an abundance of rich decorations, harmony and noble tones of decoration;
    • rural style (country), the differences of which are considered soft colors, unpainted wood, brickwork and decorative plaster;
    • rococo, characterized by an abundance of curved forms, gilding, artistic carvings, mosaics and natural wood;

      The rococo room is reminiscent of royal chambers, as gilded furniture is placed in it.

    • German style, which requires furnishing rooms with lacquered, gilded or unpainted products with curved lines, because it is characterized by sentimentality and convenience.

    This does not fit into the generally accepted idea of ​​\u200b\u200bantique wooden things, but, according to the designers, antiques go well even with the industrial-urban loft style that made itself known in the 1940s in Manhattan.

    The main idea of ​​the loft style is the predominance of light and unlimited space, combined with minimalism and quirkiness. If in one room with open pipes and electrical wiring, shabby brick walls and old wooden furniture there are modern appliances, mirrors and posters, then the effect is truly amazing.

    Brick wall and aged wood in the same room look organic

    Judging by the description of styles, for each of them the aged door must be selected individually.

    Table: relationship between interior style and door aging technique

    StyleAppropriate door aging method
    Russian estateBrushing, waxing, heat treatment
    ModernCracking, waxing
    ChaletWaxing, brushing, heat treatment
    BaroquePatination, crackling
    ClassicismBrushing, waxing
    CountryBrushing, applying stain or wax, heat treatment
    RococoCrackling, patination
    GothicChemical treatment, stain application
    german stylePatination, waxing
    LoftBrushing, staining or waxing

    Video: old boards as an element of loft style

    It may be hard to believe, but technological development encourages society to be actively interested in antiques. Increased attention to them is not purposeful, for example, an artificially aged wooden door is especially chic and radically changes the atmosphere in the room.

    In old houses, entrance and interior wooden doors are usually very durable. They are distinguished by high quality factor and reliability, since in their manufacture they used wood from high-quality material (oak, etc.). Many owners are in no hurry to replace such doors with new metal or plastic ones. How to paint an antique door?

    If the design of the house is made in the old style and furnished with antique furniture, then the most suitable option for painting its door is painting with the effect of antiquity.

    To answer this question, you need to familiarize yourself with the tips and recommendations for carrying out such work. Now it has become fashionable to paint antique doors, especially since new paintwork materials have appeared and technologies have become available for doing such work on their own. If the design of the apartment is made in the old style and it is furnished with antique furniture, then the most appropriate way to paint the doors is the so-called aging.

    This process consists of the following components:

    First of all, it is necessary to remove the old paint or varnish to the main surface of the tree with a spatula.

    1. Unscrew the hinges, locks, latches and handles (if any on the doors). This work must be done slowly, otherwise chips may result, the processing of which will take additional time.
    2. The entire surface of the door must be cleaned of dirt and dust. This is done with a sponge dipped in soapy water.
    3. First you need to remove all the old paint or varnish to the main surface of the tree. To do this, the doors are set in a horizontal position (for example, they are placed on two benches) and the old coating is removed using a grinder or skins. If the doors are large, then the work can take a long time, especially if it is done manually. First you need to use a large skin, and then gradually switch to fine emery.
    4. After that, you need to sand the very surface of the wooden door.
    5. If there are depressions or cracks (slits, scratches) on it, then they must be puttied and, after the trimming layer has dried, sanded. For putty, mastics and other similar materials are used, matched to the color of the base layer of wood. The work is done with a rubber or plastic spatula.

    You can remove the old layer of paint with special solvents that are applied with a brush.

    You can also use more modern materials to remove old paint, such as a special gel or liquid that can be bought on the construction market or in stores of a similar profile. These products are applied to the surface of the door with a roller or brush. If an aerosolized chemical is used, it is sprayed onto the surface of the wood for a few minutes. If the layer of old paint is thick enough, then this procedure is carried out several times. Exfoliated paint is removed with a spatula.

    Some use in such cases a building hair dryer or a blowtorch. But this method cannot be applied if the doors have glass inserts. They must first be removed and only then thermal paint removal should be used. It is better for inexperienced people not to resort to such methods, since when using, for example, a blowtorch, scorch marks may remain on the wood, which will negate all the work. In this case, you will need to follow the safety rules.

    Often, after removing the old coating, it turns out that the wood of the door has an uneven color in the form of light and dark places. To even out the color scheme, you can use special bleaches for wooden structures. They are diluted in a ratio of 1:3 in water and applied to the tree with a roller.

    After this treatment, the paint is easily removed from the surface of the door. Then it is polished with a fine sandpaper and cracks and depressions are puttied.

    Antique door painting technology

    This work consists of several stages:

    1. First, to get the desired color, practice on any wooden board, cover it with stain. After the desired color scheme is obtained, you can transfer the process to the door: the entire surface of the object is covered with stain.
    2. For this, a special tampon is made: a piece of cotton wool is wrapped in cotton. When working, stain is added to it so that the liquid cannot leak out. The tree is covered with several layers until the desired color density is obtained. The next layer of stain is applied only after the previous one has dried. If there are glass inserts on the doors, then they must be pasted over with a protective masking tape.
    3. To give the door an old look, it is necessary to artificially make scuffs in its corners, near the keyhole and at the handles. There are two ways to achieve this.
    4. The first method is called brushing. To do this, with the help of metal brushes, the entire surface of the door is treated, thus removing the upper, softer layer. A rougher relief surface remains. Using toning, you can achieve the effect of "patina". With the second method, scuffs can be created using paint of different tones.
    5. Then, with a brush or roller, cover the entire surface of the door with a colorless varnish, in several layers. Sometimes, after this operation, the hairs of the tree remain upright. To remove them, these places are polished with fine sandpaper.
    6. A few more layers of colorless varnish are applied.
    7. Locks, handles and hinges are installed on the door, they are mounted in the proper place.

    Necessary materials and tools

    1. Wooden door.
    2. Putty (primer) for wood.
    3. Sander.
    4. Sandpaper (large and small).
    5. Gel or paint remover.
    6. Stain.
    7. Bleach for wood surfaces.
    8. Building hair dryer or blowtorch.
    9. Metal brush.
    10. Masking tape.
    11. Cotton wool and cotton fabric.
    12. Roller or paint brush.
    13. Rubber (plastic) spatula.
    14. Colorless varnish.
    15. Screwdriver.

    If you need antiquity on a new door, then all of the above technologies are applicable without changes. Only the pre-preparation process is excluded.

    It is possible to do such work on your own only with the phased implementation of all the above recommendations.

    - the task is quite on the shoulder even for a beginner.

    Do-it-yourself antique door is not such a difficult task when you know what you are doing and what result you want to achieve.

    We prepare the surface


    Before proceeding to the main stage of work, it is necessary to carry out preliminary preparation of the door, for which you will need to get rid of old paint or varnish on the doors with a spatula.


    After that, all overhead fittings are removed from the door, while it is better not to damage its surface. Then, if necessary, the resulting burrs and other irregularities are cleaned. In the future, if there are cracks or other depressions and scratches on the surface of the doors, they must be puttied, and then, after waiting for drying, sand them.

    As a putty, you can use mastic or similar materials, choosing them to match the color of the door. For work, a spatula made of non-metallic materials is used. Sometimes, after removing the old door covering, it becomes clear that the doors have an uneven color. A special bleach for wood helps to correct the situation. As a rule, it is diluted in water in a ratio of 1 to 3 and applied with a roller to the surface of the door. After that, it is necessary to remove all dust and dirt from the surface of the door with soap, sponge and water.

    Aging methods


    There are several ways that designers use to age items. Knowing them, you can easily age any wooden doors that you have with your own hands.


    The easiest way is brushing. This method is widely used in many workshops that are engaged in the artificial aging of wood products. The method got its name from the English word "brush", which means "brush" in translation. As the name implies, the main brushing tool is a brush.


    Using a metal brush, the uppermost fibers of the wood are removed from the surface of wooden objects, due to which well-defined annual rings appear. A similar effect can be observed on old and worn boards, but with the help of brushing, you can achieve this look in just a couple of hours.

    However, the worn wood itself does not look very impressive, and therefore, after brushing, the surface needs to be improved. The item must be polished. This is the only way to get rid of burrs and other irregularities, and after that you can apply the top decorative layer of paint, varnish or stain.

    It is important to remember that not all woods are suitable for brushing. The ideal raw material is pine, oak or larch. It is better not to brush with maple, beech and birch household items, since their fibers are not so pronounced. Also, this method cannot be used for products made using MDF.

    Patina


    Doors can be given color using patina. Patina is a special decorative paint that allows you to achieve the effect of antiquity. It is great for aging any rough wood surfaces. But how to make aged doors with patina?

    The process of applying a patina is called patination. Before starting work, you need to choose a paint that matches the color of the furniture. After that, the surface is covered with a patina once, it is allowed to dry, and then another layer of paint is applied again. The second and subsequent layers should be thinner than the previous ones.

    By the way, for repeated layers, you can use a patina of brighter shades (in the same color range), as long as the color of the paint applied by another layer is not too light or bright. After all, a too bright wood surface will look like new, reducing the whole effect of antiquity.

    After applying the final layer of patina and completely drying the wooden surface, they proceed directly to the aging process. Artificial scratches and abrasions on wood are created using ordinary fine-grained sandpaper, popularly referred to as "sandpaper". In the process, it is important to achieve the effect when the bottom layer begins to show through the top layer, creating the effect as if the front door had been painted several times before. The degree of wood aging when using this method must be controlled independently, bringing the wood surface to the level of aging you need.

    Wax


    Another method of aging wooden surfaces is to create artificial scuffs using wax applied to wood. When using paraffin, you can rub individual parts of the door, but first they must already be ready "antique".

    The whole process of aging a door using wax takes place in several stages:

    • Wax application.
    • Painting in a lighter shade than the main color.
    • Drying.
    • Scraping paraffin with a spatula.
    • Surface grinding.
    • Toning with varnish or stain.
    • Final wax treatment.

    Thanks to this method, it is possible to achieve a real effect of aging, your interior doors will gain a second life, attracting attention with their unique beauty.

    wood stain


    Another method that has gained wide popularity for aging doors is their pre-treatment with stain. With this method, the doors are first treated with the main layer of stain. A prerequisite - the stain must be based on water. After that, it is necessary to apply a soft and (required!) Clean sponge, thanks to which the previously applied stain is washed off. It is important to apply it not to the entire surface, but only to the central one, distributing it to the middle part of the door, and leave the border, corners and cracks untreated.


    When painting hard-to-reach places, use a brush. When the wooden surface of a door made of, for example, pine , dried, the last layer is applied to the surface, but already using a stain based on white spirit or other similar compounds. Then again you need to let the door dry.

    The effect of aging can be achieved by filling the wood pores of the treated door with a special alkaline primer using a brush or sponge. This must be done to fix the color on the wooden surface of the door. At the end of this procedure, the wooden surface of the product is rubbed with antique wax, for this it is necessary to use only special metal brushes. The result is the necessary texture and the desired effect of antiquity.

    The three methods considered for creating antiquity on wooden doors are also suitable for metal ones. They can also be aged with a brush, paint and patina. In addition, very often designers age metal doors using decorative elements. Among them are forging elements, lattices, stamped metal forged leaves and flowers, peaks, bunches of grapes and others. Chasing and casting can transform the appearance of any door and endow it with attractiveness and features of noble antiquity.

    If you have aged a new door, it will be useful to know how to install them correctly. This will help you installation instructions for interior doors and video " Do-it-yourself door installation".

    Video

    This video is about simulating the aging of a tree:

    Watch the video, which demonstrates the application of patina to the door:

    A photo






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