Tuberous and bulbous plants in the garden. Perennial bulbous plants

BEGONIApotted plant

Begonia "Sugar Candy", Begonia "Fireglow"

tuberous begonias, Hybrids groupLorraine

Group hybridsElatior

Decorative flowering potted begonias are used as temporary indoor residents. The most spectacular flowers (10-15 cm in diameter, bloom in summer and autumn) in tuberous begonias. Plants of the Lorraine group, or Cheimantha, bloom in December. Hybrids of the Elatior group bloom all year round.

TYPES AND VARIETIES

Tuberous begonia is grown from tubers planted in the spring. tuberous begonia (Begoniatuberhybrida ) - 30 cm. It has fleshy stems on which large and spectacular male flowers. Examples: " Guardsman" (red) " sugarCandy" (pale pink) tuberous begonia" Pendula" - thin hanging stems. Flowers 5 cm in diameter. tuberous begonia" Multi-flora" - straight stems. Flowers 5 cm in diameter. Hybrids of the Lorraine group bloom profusely in white or pink flowers 3 cm in diameter. The most famous variety - " GloiredeLorraine" . Hybrids of the Elatior group have large flowers with a diameter of 5 cm. Examples: " fireglow" (red) " Elfe" (pink).

BEGONIA CARE

Reproduction methods - Tuber species - by dividing the preserved tubers. Other species - stem cuttings
Transfer -
Features of care - Usually discarded after flowering, but tubers can be used for propagation
Temperature - Moderate room temperature; in winter not lower than 13°С
Light - Bright place, but not in direct sunlight
Watering - Abundant watering during flowering. Let the topsoil dry out between waterings. Outside of the flowering period, the soil should be constantly moist.
Air humidity - Spray the air around the plant regularly, but not the leaves

A characteristic feature of bulbous and tuberous flowering plants is the formation of an underground vegetative storage organ - a kind of "pantry" nutrients. It will serve as the basis for the development of the same plant or another that will replace it in the next growing season.

A typical sign of this group of plants is an annual vegetation cycle; in its course, the plant creates its ground and underground organs, flowers, seeds. Each such cycle ends with a period of vegetative dormancy. The beginning of one stage is simultaneously the completion of another passing one. The development of the vegetation cycle in individual genera and species proceeds differently in time. However, this is always a one-year cycle, that is, ending within twelve months, although its beginning and end do not have to coincide with the beginning and end of the calendar year. If we keep track of time according to the calendar, then we would have to consider almost all species of this group as biennial plants, since their vegetative cycle is similar in time to the cycle of a group of biennial flowers, such as pansies, daisies and forget-me-nots. The fact is that biennial plants are also essentially annual plants, only their vegetation cycle captures, albeit partially, two calendar years.

Daffodils are usually planted in flower beds along with perennials. They can form independent groups. Their combinations with other spring bulbous flower plants are also possible. Pictured: Narcissus 'Urania' growing in moderate partial shade

The beginning of vegetation in individual genera of bulbous and tuberous plants is different and is always associated with certain favorable conditions. climatic conditions that stimulate him. However, a new cycle can begin only after the complete completion of the previous cycle. And gardeners need to reckon with this moment. We must not forget about this when forcing plants.

The beginning of the vegetation cycle in bulbous and tuberous plants also, as a rule, does not coincide in time with the formation of their terrestrial parts. This feature is also feature the whole group. If in most perennial plants a new growing season begins with biological and physiological changes in the terrestrial vegetative parts, in bulbous and tuberous plants, significant changes first occur in the underground organs, from which their terrestrial parts grow only later.

Only in the first year of his life generative reproduction bulbous and tuberous plants behave like most others. Them life cycle begins with the germination of seeds and the formation of the first vegetative organs, but soon the laying and development of an underground storage organ (bulbs or tubers) occurs, which becomes the main organ of the whole plant. From the moment of its formation, bulbous and tuberous plants begin to differ from other plants and become, in their biological and morphological structure true representatives of their group. In this initial phase, the most sensitive and vulnerable in the life of a plant, genetic changes sometimes occur. In the course of its further life, the signs and characteristics of the plant stabilize and we already encounter any significant changes very rarely. Reproduction of a variety, which is essentially a combination of vegetative offspring of one parent plant, occurs already in a vegetative way, in which the signs and properties of this culture are preserved.

Bulbous and tuberous plants are bred for two purposes: to decorate the garden (its decorative and design task) and to cut flowers (utilitarian and economic purpose). Some flowers are more suitable for decorating the territory, others look more spectacular in a bouquet. An example of plants that are much more beautiful in a vase than in a flower bed are gladioli, and therefore their place is in the economic part of the site. If there is none, then these plants can be planted where they do not violate harmony and do not spoil general form garden.

Plants planted in the decorative part of the garden are intended to decorate it for a long time, so cutting flowers is inappropriate there. This applies primarily to tulips, lilies, daffodils and many other species, as well as snowdrops, white flowers, hazel grouses.

A rare and valuable property of many types of bulbous and tuberous plants is their simple forcing, which is possible even in the most critical winter and pre-spring months, when most other plants stop flowering due to lack of light. But even at this time, bulbous and tuberous crops in houses, gardens and parks are able to give us a flower - the long-awaited news of the upcoming spring.

Growing bulbous and tuberous flowers in pots

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Some crops originating from tropical and subtropical regions cannot be grown outdoors in our climatic conditions. However, we can grow many of them in flower pots(Agapanthus, Amaryllis, Amorphophallus, Cyclamen persicum, Eucharia, Gloriosa, Haemanthus, Hippeastrum, Scilla violacea, Vallota). However, those that grow in our flower beds will not fall into the circle of such plants: they are planted in pots only for forcing.

Breeding bulbous and tuberous plants in pots, we must not forget that they also have the rhythm of alternating periods of vegetation and vegetative dormancy. If conditions for dormancy are not created for them at the appropriate time (limiting or completely stopping watering, lowering the ambient temperature, etc.), then the plants will not be able to complete the vegetation cycle that has begun and, for the most part, will not bloom. Conversely, during the growing season, such home flowers require more water and minerals.

In summer, most potted plants can be kept on balconies or moved to a sheltered area in the garden. They are prepared for the onset of vegetation dormancy by limiting watering. Species that are free of leaves at this time can begin to be watered after the appearance of new leaves or flowers. Every year, after the end of the period of vegetation dormancy, it is recommended that the plants be transplanted into a new land.

Assortment of bulbous and tuberous plants. Part 1

Assortment of bulbous and tuberous plants. Part 2

The use of bulbous and tuberous plants

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There are the following ways to use bulbous and tuberous plants:

Decorative plantings in gardens,

outdoor plantings for cutting,

Breeding in vegetative vessels,

Forcing, early and late.

Decorative plantings in gardens

Bulbous and tuberous flowers are often planted in gardens in combination with other ornamental plants. Unfortunately, their placement, layout and combination in groups are not always carried out correctly, and therefore the desired optimal aesthetic effect is often not achieved. In principle, it is necessary to take as a basis the following task: to achieve that ornamental garden was the likeness of a natural formation, concentrated on a small area. The garden is a piece of wildlife at the doorstep of our house and should be treated with care and attention.

The beauty of tulips can be appreciated only when a lot of these plants are planted. Variety "Maytime" from the lily group is suitable for garden decoration and for cutting.

We must not forget that from an aesthetic point of view, the most impressive, perfect alpine slides, mountain lawns, flower walls, water and swamp corners, nature creates itself, on the basis of its own laws. These natural natural formations not only give a person aesthetic pleasure, but also meet the natural needs of plants. Therefore, in nature, we will not meet next to such flowers that do not fit together. We will not see plants lined up in symmetrical rows so that, say, behind a line of fading tulips, already yellowing snowdrops stand in a strict row, and all this against the background of roses just beginning to turn green. Such a picture cannot give the desired decorative result. It is a mistake to believe that by supplementing such spring flower beds with rows of gladioli, marigolds or any other flowers that are dear to us, even if it is orchids, we will achieve some kind of exceptional effect. Indeed, in nature, even the most common nettle grows in a group, and does not line up at all. And although this plant, which is unwanted in the garden, is a weed, but take a closer look, in early spring with its bunches of germinating stems it looks very decorative, as, indeed, at the time of flowering, and even in late autumn, when frost burns it, and dead stems are covered inium crystals.

Therefore, if we have the opportunity to use aesthetically valuable ornamental plants Let's look at nature first. We will also try to create in our gardens beautiful, harmoniously coordinated plantings in terms of color and contour, which will not spoil their surroundings, but, on the contrary, will improve it, make it more expressive.

Self-group planting of bulbous plants

Group planting with symmetrical or asymmetrical placement of plants should have become the basis of our garden. Plants of the same species, planted in groups, not only caress the eye. Thus are created and optimal conditions for their development: they do not compete, trying to stretch upwards, they receive water and nutrients from the soil in equal doses, mutually shade the roots on hot days, and support each other during heavy rains or winds, due to which they require less maintenance. Together, without human help, they create an appropriate microclimate for themselves even on a small site, i.e. certain type natural conditions for them. In bulbous and tuberous plants, this ability is more pronounced than in any other group of flowers.

This is understandable, since bulbous plants and most tuberous and naturally grow in groups. As a result vegetative propagation storage organ around the mother plant, after a few years, a community of daughter plants will arise, forming a more or less dense and even merging mass of representatives of the same species. And in smaller species with a small leaf surface, those that have grown from seeds are added to the vegetatively arisen individuals. In most plants of this group, the seeds are bare, without "wings" or special membranes. They crumble near the mother plant and begin to develop independently. In larger or more intensively vegetatively propagating bulbous plants, the seeds are equipped with flight devices, due to which the wind can carry them over a long distance, where their new colonies will subsequently arise.

In some lilies that need abundant light, the stem of the mother plant “travels” before blooming, deviating from the bulb, which makes it possible for the bulbs grown on it to gain living space. So lilies provide sufficient lightening and the necessary supply of nutrients for the development of new individuals. Such differences in the biology of individual species of the same group of plants are not a whim of nature, but a consequence of its thousand-year development. Therefore, we should take this point into account when breeding such plants in the garden.

Fritillaria imperialis "Lutea Maxima" is a crop that should be immediately planted singly in a permanent place. Its bulb has a specific smell and contains a poisonous alkaloid that penetrates the entire plant.

In gardens, bulbous and tuberous plants are best planted in small independent groups among the lawn or combined with perennials. Despite the fact that many crocuses, tulips, daffodils, blueberries look very decorative and as a component of the lawn, that is, when they are freely scattered throughout the grassy area, nevertheless, this method of breeding them is not recommended. The lawn must be cared for, mowed, and bulbous crops take a very long time to complete the growing season and form a new storage organ. Any premature damage to their leafy parts will result in reduced flowering in the coming year. Yes, and the flowers themselves need cultivation - digging, fertilizer.

From an aesthetic and practical point of view, it is more profitable to make separate groups from only one species or variety. It also looks better and more diverse forms of landing. When the early-flowering bulbous plants complete their growing season, the vacated areas can be filled with summer or tuberous begonias, pelargoniums, etc.

The appearance of bulbous flowering plants is quite spectacular when they grow at the edge of paved paths or driveways, built of loose tiles or stones and not having a border. You can also, if this does not interfere with the passage, take out some tiles or stones at the edges and temporarily take the vacated squares or rectangles of the earth under bulbous crops. After the completion of their growing season, such flowers are replaced with annuals, or simply the removed tiles are put back in their place. But even with such a fit, symmetry and repetition should be avoided. Groups of bulbous plants are usually placed on an area occupied by one, two or more tiles, and if the road is wide enough, they create a flowering "oasis" in the middle. However, this method can only be used where the road passes through an area overgrown with grass.

Gladiolus hybridus "Black Jack" refers to beautiful varieties with red flowers, of which there can be about two dozen on one stem. Flowers arranged in a spiral

In all of the monoculture plantings mentioned above (from plants of the same species or variety), taller, early flowering bulbous plants can be mounted along with biennials (pansies, forget-me-nots, daisies), which (before the bulbous crops sprout and after they bloom) will decorate these small flower beds. Other bulbous plants, such as hyacinth (Muscari armeniacum), are also used as replants for taller bulbous plants. This kind, which timely landing grows already by autumn and covers the ground with beautifully outlined leaf rosettes, undeservedly underestimated. Its juicy blue inflorescences, resembling clusters, remain on the plant for 4-5 weeks and in April - May complement well color scheme garden. Hyacinth can also be used as a substitute for poorly wintered pansies or forget-me-nots. It reproduces intensively vegetatively and generatively, so it is not difficult to grow a sufficient number of bulbs.

Combined plantings of bulbous plants and perennials

Another possibility of using bulbous and tuberous plants in the garden is their combination with others. decorative species, especially with perennials. Placing bulbs in a flower garden where perennials grow opens up unlimited possibilities for decorating the site. In addition to the commonly used spring bulbous plants, the pride of all rock gardens and flower beds, there are many very interesting and unpretentious summer crops that will help diversify the flora of perennial plantings, in order to create successful combinations of plants, you need to know in detail the features of their appearance, size, color of flowers, flowering time and growth conditions. Proper placement of individual cultures will save us from troubles and surprises. For example, we do not have to wonder why a beautiful bulbous plant 20 cm high perishes in dense two-meter thickets of larkspur or similar tall perennials.

The genus Crocus includes about 80 species of natural saffron. Decorative varieties This plant arose mainly on the basis of two species - Crocus vernus and C. chrysanthus. The picture shows one of the bred varieties of C. vernus "Qeen of the Blues"

Joint plantings of bulbous and tuberous plants with perennials are also associated with some problems. At the time when spring bulbs are supposed to be dug up and harvested, most perennials enter the most important phase of the growing season, and at this point it is risky to touch their root system and start collecting bulbs. In this case, there are two possible solutions: to refuse the collection and to rely on next year something will grow, or plant only crops that do not need to be carried out this operation. An annual collection is necessary for garden crops of tulips, hyacinths, and also for crocuses so that rodents do not destroy them. Therefore, we must try to provide these plants with at least the most basic conditions for a respite until next spring directly in the place of growth. As for crocuses, the main thing here is to protect them from rodents. Tulips and especially hyacinths, if left in the ground during the entire period of vegetation dormancy, are susceptible to various fungal and bacterial diseases, the spread of which is promoted by elevated soil temperature and moisture. Therefore, we advise you not to water the places where the bulbs are located after the end of the growing season without great need.

You can protect the surface of these places with "pads" of finely rooted creeping perennials (Thymus, Aubrieta, Cotula). Most undersized perennials well protect the soil during the summer from excessive overheating and dampness. In addition, after the end of the growing season of bulbous crops, empty spaces form in the flower beds, and this is ugly. When the next spring comes, the sprouts of the bulbs will calmly break through the creeping perennials without damaging them. The given combination with creeping or later germinating perennials fully justifies itself and is beneficial to all types of bulbous plants that live in summer beds and flower beds during their vegetative dormancy.

Those bulbous and tuberous plants that, under our conditions, cannot winter in the ground, must be dug up and collected annually, and planted again in the spring. They also include anemone or anemone (Anemone coronaria), buttercup (Ranunculus asiaticus) and Ixia speciosa, which finish their vegetation in the summer, but can grow again in autumn. Leaving them in the ground for the winter means deliberately destroying these plants.

Another problem that arises when perennials are combined with bulbous and tuberous plants is the fertilization of plantings. Plants with underground storage organs need a high dose of mineral nutrients and especially nitrogen, which is contraindicated in perennials, as it causes them to overgrow, often reducing flowering intensity. In these cases, some compromise has to be made. Cultivation becomes just as difficult - digging, spraying, etc.

Since in flowerbeds with perennials we will never be able to provide bulbous crops with optimal conditions for development, we will have to come to terms with the fact that after a while many of them will disappear, and plantings will have to be renewed. This happens with many more tender and capricious perennials. For many years, only the most hardy species or species with an increased ability to reproduce are reliably preserved in their places. From the point of view of the longevity of individual plant species, a lot depends, no doubt, on the location of the site, the nature of the soil and other external conditions, which sometimes differ sharply even on two neighboring garden plots as well as plant care.

Bulbous and tuberous flower plants in combination with perennials, it is also better to plant in groups. One by one, they will get lost among perennials and will not be as beautiful as asymmetric groups freely scattered throughout the area. The number of plants in each such group depends on the size of the species, the nature and size of the flower bed. At least in each group there should be at least three flowers of the same species or variety, including such unusual ones as, for example, Eremurus (Eremurus), hazel grouses (Fritillaria), ornamental onions (Allium), etc. decorative effect from scattered groups is very significant.

Combined plantings of bulbous plants and ornamental grasses

Bulb crops planted in the "steppe" corners of the garden along with ornamental grasses look attractive. The effect of such a combination is achieved not only due to the texture and color contrasts obtained by the correct placement of species and varieties. In this case, there is indeed a natural combination of two groups of plants that are close to each other and geographically. After all, the steppe regions of the Earth are the birthplace of not only a number of ornamental grasses, but also many species of bulbous plants.

Colchicumx hybridum "Waterlily" is an excellent terry culture of colchicum, which can be placed in rock gardens and along the edges of flower beds. This plant can be planted in the steppe corners, on the lawn, not far from ornamental trees, however, in the latter case, one must always take into account the size of the foliage that appears in spring

Planting bulbous plants in rock gardens

Small bulbous and tuberous plants, which do not have too high habitat requirements, are often used for planting in rock gardens, flower walls. There they are usually placed among proliferating carpet perennials. In this environment in the spring they appear in all their splendor, bringing fresh colors to the still not fully awakened world of mountain vegetation.

For planting in rock gardens, low species and varieties of the following genera of bulbous and tuberous plants are recommended: Allium, Chionodoxa, Crocus, Cyclamen, Erythronium, Galanthus, Incarvillea, Iris, Ixiolirion, Leucojum, Muscari, Narcissus, Ornithogalum, Platycodon, Puschkinia, Tulipa.

The species Muscari armeniacum and its "Heavenly Blue" culture are among the most resistant bulbous plants that can be planted from August until frost. The plant does not require care and can grow in one place for several years.

Planting for cutting flowers

In the household part of the garden, along with vegetables and berries, you can plant flowers for cutting, intended for decorating vases. Here, small, not yet flowering onions are usually grown to a flowering state. In the decorative half of the garden, over time, certain species and varieties gradually die off or weaken, and we have the opportunity to create a certain reserve of bulbous plants on the beds for household purposes, from which we will draw a new one as necessary. planting material.

The following species and genera of bulbous and tuberous flowers are recommended for cutting: Acidanthera, Allium, Anemone coronaria, Camassia, Crocosmia, Dahlia, Endymion, Eremurus stenophylus var. bungei, Fritillaha meleagris, Gladiolus, Hyacinthus, Hymenocallis, Iris, Ixiolirion, Leucojum, Liatris, Lilium, Muscari, Narcissus, as well as all tall varieties of the genus Tulipa, with the exception of the so-called botanical tulips.

Only those plants that have grown from fully developed bulbs and tubers are suitable for cutting. Only they give quality flowers and are still capable, with a properly cut cut, to form a new storage organ, a new bulb or tuber.

Flowers should be cut early in the morning when they are fresh and well supplied with water. In all bulbous and tuberous plants, with the exception of dahlias and anemones (anemones), it is necessary to cut off plants with fully developed and well-colored, but not yet opened buds. The flower should open already in the vase. By cutting off blooming flowers or even those that have stood a little on the vine, we deprive ourselves of the opportunity to observe the most beautiful phase of its development and in vain shorten its life in a vase.

The color of flowers blooming in water is somewhat lighter, which, however, is not a defect. In addition, the transportation of buds and manipulation with them is easier, the flowers do not fade and do not suffer from mechanical damage. When placing spring species of tulips, daffodils, hyacinths in a vase, it must be borne in mind that both the flower and its stem in water increase in size by about one third. For most species, it is appropriate to use special preparations that prolong the life of a cut flower in a vase, but it is important to follow the prescribed dose, especially for bulbous flowers. If you do without such a drug, then you should replace the old, biologically devalued water with clean water every day, and slightly shorten the end of the leg. Water in cut flower vases should be cold, but not icy.

Dahlias and anemones are recommended to be cut off already blooming, but not overstayed. Single-stemmed flowers (tulips, lilies, gladioli) are cut in such a way that at least the main part of its leaf surface is preserved on the remaining plant, which is necessary for the development of a storage vegetative organ. If we want to get good planting material for future vegetation, then the leaves of the plant should not be damaged too much. The underground organs of all the species listed above reach their maximum development after the end of flowering. Each extra cut leaf reduces the size and quality of the collected planting material, and with it the quality of flowers in the next year.

Growing in pots

Currently, portable mini-gardens are becoming more and more common. We are talking about ceramic or any other containers of various sizes and shapes, where slowly increasing tree species, undersized perennials or alpine plants. Such miniature gardens become interesting addition not only in public places, but also on spacious balconies, terraces, paved courtyards, etc.

The bottom of such a container - a vegetation vessel - is first recommended to be covered with drainage material (crushed brick fragments, flower pots etc.), and then fill it with earth of the appropriate composition. It is desirable that a thin layer of peat be poured between the ground and the drainage, which will ensure regular movement of water from the drainage space to the ground. This will greatly simplify the care of plants, in particular, their watering.

To diversify the vegetation in such vessels, they also place blooming in spring bulbous crops. Bulbs or tubers are planted in the usual way at the appropriate time among other flowers. Just do not give them a place at the edge of the container, where the roots can suffer as a result of temperature changes in winter time. We fill mini-gardens with small groups of plants or even single plants. Bulb crops do not fertilize or feed. After the end of flowering, the bulbs are supposed to be taken out, otherwise their growing foliage will obscure the rest of the plants.

Forcing bulbous crops

When forcing, early and late, only perfectly healthy bulbs are used. maximum dimensions. Before planting, they are stored at temperatures up to 20 ° C. Distillation is carried out in medium-sized containers or in boxes, from where the flower, before it begins to bloom, is transplanted into decorative pots or bowls. Anemones (Anemone coronaria) and daffodils grow well if the depth of the growing vessel is at least 20 cm. For the roots of other species, a layer of earth of 5-8 cm is sufficient. It is absolutely unnecessary and aesthetically undesirable to use large dishes for one plant. A group planting of 3-10 plants of the same species or variety looks much more spectacular. To create compositions from various species, plants are used, the forcing of which was carried out in boxes. Only after that they are already connected together. Plants in mixed plantings should bloom at the same time, because when they fade, the appearance of a decorative bowl becomes unattractive. New ceramic containers are pre-soaked for 48 hours in a sufficiently large amount of water before use.

Hyacinthus orientalis "Delft Blue" is used for planting in small groups in rock gardens and perennial beds in conjunction with other spring bulb flowers. Larger groups of these plants planted on the lawn also look spectacular.

At home, for all types of bulbous and tuberous plants, late forcing is recommended, that is, in February - March. Early forcing is applicable only in those cases where a special heat treatment of the storage organs was carried out in compliance with strict agricultural practices. During forcing, bulbs and tubers do not need additional nutrition. They get everything they need from their stocks.

Of the species recommended for forcing, only anemones need to be fed, and even then after the appearance of leaves and until the end of flowering. Do this after 10-14 days, using fertilizers for indoor plants. Anemones and springweeds (Eranthis) are placed in a bright place immediately after the leaves appear. Other species must first grow to a height of 5-10 cm in a dark room.

For forcing plants, you need a light, non-sticky earth with a sufficient content of sand. In pots or boxes, it should not be wet, and therefore it is necessary to ensure a good outflow of water. Most species are planted in early October (planting depth is given in the attached table). For good rooting, the plant needs medium humidity and temperature, usually between 2°C and 8°C. At lower or higher temperatures, the storage organs will not take root properly, resulting in flowers of poor quality.

Rooting is carried out in a special room (raised, drained and sufficiently insulated nursery or in a damp basement). After planting, the plants should be watered abundantly. In the basement, boxes with planted bulbs and tubers are covered with sawdust or peat so that the earth does not dry out in them. From time to time, the moisture content of the substrate should be monitored.

In the nursery, this concern disappears, but there the planting material must be protected from rodents and cold. To do this, pots with bulbs and tubers are covered with other inverted pots of the same size and sprinkled with a layer of earth at least 15-20 cm. When the surface of the earth outside freezes, the entire nursery is covered with foliage or sawdust.

AT warm room for the distillation itself, well-rooted plants with developed sprouts (except for anemones and vernes) are transferred. The forcing itself takes place at various temperatures(see table, page 332), but always on full light. Its time also depends on the species, variety and many other factors (the table indicates the approximate number of days, the necessary or another plant to form a flower). During this period, the plant should be watered sparingly. Abundant watering (twice a day) is needed only for daffodils. It is also necessary to control the air temperature during rooting and especially during forcing itself (the optimal one is given in the table). High air temperature is especially dangerous. It leads to drying of the buds, thinning of the leaves (they become like paper), and sometimes complete inhibition of color formation (for example, in crocuses). Plants after forcing retain their beautiful view only in colder rooms.

After forcing, bulbous and tuberous plants are no longer suitable for re-forcing, but they can, with the exception of tulips, be used for planting in the garden. After the end of flowering, plants are usually left in the same container until the end of the growing season. Then, at the appropriate time, they can be planted in the garden. While growing in a pot or bowl, the plant needs regular feeding.

Tuberous and bulbous plants in the garden

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Development conditions

Most bulbous and tuberous plants need a sunny location. They can put up with light shade, but a permanent shadow is not suitable for them. In open sunny places, such crops bloom earlier, although less for a long time, than in slightly shaded ones. However, the development of the whole plant and the formation of a new underground storage organ in sunny places proceeds much more intensively than in plants of the same species and variety grown in partial shade. In semi-shaded areas, only anemones are placed - Anemone blanda, tuberous begonias - Begonia × tuberhybrida, cyclamens - Cyclamen, hinodoks - Chionodoxa, vespers - Eranthis, kandyks, or dog's tooth - Erythronium, checkered hazel grouses - Fritillaria meleagris, snowdrops - Galanthus, white flowers - Leucojum , some types of lilies, blueberries - Scilla sibirica, etc. Some of the listed species need light shade and cannot tolerate the sun.

Bulbs and tuberous plants grow well in any garden soil, but most of all they are suitable for sandy-clay, water-permeable, neutral or slightly alkaline soil, with sufficient humus and nutrients. These plants do not tolerate heavy and wet soils, as well as obviously dry, sandy or rocky places.

Where bulbous and tuberous plants are grown, organic residues should never be added to the soil, with the exception of alkalized peat, the only sterile substrate of organic origin. It is also unacceptable to plant these plants in flower beds and flower beds fertilized with fresh manure of any domestic animals.

Tuberous and bulbous plants suitable for forcing

Site preparation, fertilization and proper planting principles

The place for planting any bulbous and tuberous flower plants is recommended to be pre-treated to an appropriate depth. If plants are planted in autumn, then such processing with digging and loosening of the soil is carried out 10-14 days before planting. The optimal depth for species with large bulbs is 20-25 cm, i.e., to the depth of a shovel. It must also be remembered that root system of these plants is often located under the bulb or tuber, and the ground must be prepared specifically for the roots. Digging, it is cleared of all weeds and especially diligently extract the roots of perennial resistant weeds. Timely preparation of the soil allows the top layer of the earth to settle a little before planting, and it is possible to correctly determine its depth only in the settled earth.

Crocus vernus "Pickwick" produces 2-4 flowers per bulb. For the winter, it does not need shelter, and during the growing season it requires a sufficient amount of moisture.

For species planted in the spring, the ground is prepared before the onset of winter, leaving it to freeze. Sawdust, sand, ash, coarse alkalized peat or an artificial lightening substrate are added to heavier soils, then it becomes lighter. Drying and excessively light soils are "weighted" by introducing well-aged compost mixed with heavy earth into them.

Before planting, you can add combined fertilizers containing all the main components - phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen. For crops with a short growing season, 100 g of combined fertilizers are recommended per 1 m 2 of planting area, and for species with a long growing season (gladiolus, lilies), which will receive another top dressing during their growth, 50 g will be enough. Fertilizers are applied for one to two weeks before planting. It is important to distribute them evenly. When planting, they are mixed with a layer of soil above the planted bulbs so that the fertilizers are gradually washed off to the roots. For some more delicate horticultural crops, such as Erythronium, Cyclamen, Begonia, it is recommended to apply only repeated nutrient watering during the growing season.

Before planting, the flower garden or flower bed must be carefully, but slightly leveled. The loosened earth must not be trampled or leveled too hard, so that the results of laborious digging are not wasted. In small flower beds, it is advisable to work while standing on the path, and in larger ones, use a wide board, then the gardener's weight will be distributed more evenly and the surface will not be compacted.

Planting depth varies by plant species, but should generally be three times the height of the bulb or tuber (with a few exceptions). The term “planting depth” refers to the thickness of the soil layer above the storage organ, and not the distance from the bottom of the hole or furrow to the surface. It follows from this that smaller bulbs of the same species should be planted smaller than massive ones. On heavy clay soils, in the same way, they reduce the corresponding planting depth by 2-3 cm, and on obviously light ones, on the contrary, it is increased by the same 2-3 cm. planted 2-4 cm deeper.

The distance between plants and their placement is determined by the specifics of the species, the purpose of planting and the gardener's intentions. On the decorative flower beds asymmetrical groups should be planted. In the economic part of the garden, where the flowers are intended for cutting or younger bulbs and tubers are brought to the desired condition, planting in rows is advisable.

Bulbs and tubers are usually planted in holes or grooves. You can place them at the bottom of a deepened flower bed in a special way. The latter method is considered the most optimal. They do it this way: in the place where the flower garden is laid out, a layer of earth is removed to an appropriate depth, the bottom of the formed depression is loosened and the bulbs are placed on it, slightly pressing them into the soil. Then the landing site is again carefully covered with the earth chosen from here.

This method allows you to most accurately maintain a uniform depth, it is especially suitable for planting small groups of plants. With the most common method, planting with a planting vane, it can be difficult for the bulbs to sink evenly deep into the ground. Most often, this is the cause of unfriendly germination, uneven development of individual plants of the same variety. As a result, plantings grow at different heights, and, most importantly, do not bloom at the same time. When planting in furrows, a uniform depth can already be achieved with greater accuracy.

Growing tops of bulbs and tubers should always be directed upwards when planting. If they turn upside down, they will germinate later, at different times, and will be weakened. The tubers of some species with such a planting are not able to germinate at all and die (for example, Anemone coronaria). Therefore, the storage organs should be slightly pressed into the ground, and then carefully covered with earth and then make sure that the larger bulbs do not “fall over” on their side. When planting is completed, the surface of the flower bed is slightly leveled and immediately thoroughly watered.

Watering should be plentiful enough so that moisture penetrates to the storage organs, but not excessive, otherwise the top layer of soil can be “carried”. In the latter case, after the surface has dried, a hard crust forms on it, which prevents the plants from breaking through to the light and can adversely affect the condition of the bulbs. In dry weather, watering can be repeated. During the rooting of plants, it is also necessary to ensure that field mice do not appear, which for some species are very dangerous pests. By the way, sometimes in such cases, an ordinary domestic cat is a much more reliable assistant than the most expensive or most poisonous chemicals.

Care during the growing season

As soon as the plants have sprouted, the surface of the flower garden is again loosened and weeds are pulled out. Loosening is especially necessary after top dressing with saltpeter, which leads to waterlogging of the soil and the formation of a crust.

In general, during the growing season, the surface of the soil should be regularly loosened, preventing weeds from overgrowing, and, depending on the need, watered. It is advisable to do this in a cool morning or, even better, before evening. During the day, when the air is very warm, especially in hot summers, watering can cause defects in some species on the underground and aboveground parts of the plant. This primarily applies to hyacinths, tulips, begonias and some other more delicate species. When watering, preference should be given to soft rain or at least slightly warmed water over cold, well water. Tap water should be allowed to stand for several hours before watering, preferably in the sun and in a wide open container so that active chlorine can evaporate. It is especially important to keep this in mind when rare, chlorine-sensitive species, such as hyacinths, are planted.

After watering, as well as after heavy rain, the surface of the earth must be loosened, breaking the hard crust. Otherwise, excess water vapor will accumulate under it, which can cause steaming and damage to plants, especially in the final phase of the growing season. Young, still relatively soft and mostly unprotected storage organs are at this time very susceptible to infections. Decreased transpiration (moisture loss by evaporation) in plants at the end of the growing season and the associated reduction in their water intake from the soil will further increase the resulting soil damming. High daytime temperatures create in wet and warm soil an ideal environment for the violent reproduction of all pathogenic fungi and bacteria. And often, when collecting bulbs or tubers of outwardly healthy plants, we extract from the ground only rotten or badly damaged remnants of once very high-quality storage organs. Therefore, about a month before the natural end of the growing season, it is recommended to stop watering all bulbous and tuberous plants altogether. Although the storage organs still continue to increase in size, at this time, the maturation of their tissues mainly occurs; plants no longer need a lot of soil moisture. Both bulbs and tubers begin to prepare for a period of vegetative dormancy.

Iris reticulata is a showy early flowering plant suitable for rock gardens, dry walls, perennial beds and lawn plantings. Its bulbs are not afraid of frost, however, during the period of vegetation dormancy, they do not tolerate soil jamming. Pictured: two cultures of this plant - purple "J. S. Dijt" and blue "Joyce"

All processes referred to by the general concept of decay are caused by the activity of pathogenic fungi or bacteria that infect individual parts of plants and spoil them. In many cases, infestation can be prevented by properly cultivating the soil to ensure optimal soil activity. In healthy, biologically active soil, harmful microorganisms usually do not multiply enough to cause serious damage to plants. However, by improperly cultivating the soil, a person often violates its natural biological balance, thereby contributing to the spread of pathogens. Therefore, the cultivation of the soil must be carried out with skill, taking into account its condition, as well as the requirements of the crops grown.

Most garden soils are not provided with sufficient nutrients necessary for the optimal development of bulbous and tuberous plants. Gardens with humus-rich, well-maintained, cultivated soil have a better supply of nutrients than those with extensive farming. In light sandy soils, as a rule, there are fewer nutrients than in clay or sandy-clay soils. Bulbous and tuberous plants consume a lot of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus during the growing season. Therefore, these substances must be added annually to all types of soil in the form of artificial industrial fertilizers.

Hyacinthus orientalis "Bismarck" is a delicate and demanding plant that needs constant care. Therefore, great attention is paid to the preparation and cultivation of the soil before planting. In the ground where this hyacinth will grow, it is recommended to add compost. During the growing season, the surface of the soil around the plants should be loose

In addition to the basic fertilizers before planting, bulbous and tuberous flowering plants also need additional fertilizing with nitrogen or combined fertilizers during the formation of new storage organs.

All types of plants planted in the spring are supposed to be fed twice: a month after germination and during flowering. The second top dressing is not needed for those species that have a short growing season. This applies to plants such as Anemone coronaria, Ranunculus, etc.

They do not feed dahlias at all during the growing season, since with more high content nitrogen in the soil, they bloom worse.

Frost-resistant bulbous crops that remain in the same place for several years must be fertilized annually with appropriate doses of nutrients. By applying combined fertilizers in the fall, we give the plants the main portion of nutrition, and spring dressing nitrogen is carried out in the same way as in those species that are supposed to be dug up and collected annually.

Immediately after fertilizing, the plants are watered abundantly so that the nutrition dissolves faster and gets to the roots. Watering, carried out 1-2 times, is repeated two to three weeks after top dressing, which prevents the formation increased concentration minerals in the soil layer above the roots, as this, especially when using saltpeter, can cause burns of the underground part of the stems. Each watering should be plentiful, but at the same time correspond to the ability of the soil in our garden to absorb water.

In crops bred in the decorative part of the site, faded flowers are immediately removed. The abandonment of the testicles severely disrupts the development of vegetative storage organs. Flowers should be broken off directly under the petals or removed with a pedicel under the lowest flower so as not to damage the plant itself.

Preventive plant care

An important part of the care of bulbous and flower bed plants is their protection from disease.

Immediately after the appearance of ground organs, it is necessary to inspect the plants and remove from the flower garden those of them that have signs of disease in order to prevent infection of the rest. Such selection is carried out during the entire growing season. Signs of some diseases, in particular fungal diseases, appear at the initial stage of plant development, while others, usually of bacterial and viral origin, appear later.

However, regardless of the season or growth phase, individuals with signs of infection must always be eliminated. This rule is especially important to observe when planting tulips and gladioli; in these plants, the viral infection appears only on flowers.

In addition to culling selection, it is also recommended to observe another rule for caring for bulbous and tuberous plants, namely, to carry out preventive preventive spraying of plantings in a timely manner. chemicals. And although their use in gardens is not a simple matter, nevertheless, some crops need at least 3-4 sprayings. At the same time, it must be said that not all chemicals used for plant protection belong to the group of toxic substances.

All gardeners have access to fungicides, preparations against fungi: they are not poisonous and, subject to minimal precautions, can be used without any fear. Unfortunately, we still have almost no suitable spray preparations against bacterial diseases. And the greatest difficulties arise when using insecticides - products designed to kill insects that suck and eat plant tissue.

Using chemicals to protect plants, we must remember that there is no all-powerful drug against all diseases. The breadth of action of individual drugs is different.

Working with funds chemical protection plants, it is necessary to observe not only the rules of personal hygiene and self-protection recommended by the manufacturers, but also strictly adhere to the instructions regarding the concentration of drugs and the method of their application.

Dahlia pinnata "Tartan" belongs to the group of ornamental dahlias by the nature of its flowers.

Cleaning plants and their wintering

With the death of the ground parts, bulbous and tuberous plants pass to the phase of vegetative dormancy. During this period, amateur gardeners are advised to adhere to the following principles:

Annually harvest plants that do not winter in the soil, which include the following genera and species: Acidanthera, Anemone coronaria, Begonia×tuberhybrida, Canna, Crocosmia, Dahlia, Freesia, Galtonia, Gladiolus, Hymenocallis, Iris×hollandica, lxiaf Oxalis, Ranunculus, Tigridia , as well as those that need summer storage - hyacinths, garden and tender crops of botanical tulips and crocuses.

Other genera and species, including botanical tulips from the groups Tulipa kaufmanniana, T. eichleri, T. urumiensis, T. tarda, T. biflora, T. turkestanica, T. praestans, can be left in their places for several years.

Daffodils, lilies, colchicum are supposed to be taken out of the ground in 3-4 years, when the overgrown plantings become thickened.

Bulbs and tubers are harvested before the ground parts of the plants completely die off. They do it this way: the storage organs are carefully dug out of the ground, the stems, and also the leaves, if they remain, are immediately separated at the bulb or tuber itself. It is very important to observe this order of work, because this is how you can keep the storage organs in good condition. The only exception is dahlias. They are supposed to leave about 10 cm of all old stems, which are only cleaned of the remnants of dried leaves.

The removed material is shaken off the ground, placed in fruit boxes or on shelves in a thin layer and stored in a well-ventilated area. Drawers are usually equipped with legs, which ensures free air circulation between them. In the sun, the species harvested in autumn only dry out. At the same time, they must be protected from evening dew and cold.

Immediately after drying, which lasts about a month at home, the tubers and bulbs are again well cleaned, removing the remains of old dead storage organs, and then stored (lily bulbs, with the exception of Lilium candidum, are not supposed to be dried).

During harvesting, during cleaning and during storage, care must be taken to ensure that the harvested planting material does not begin to deteriorate. All storage organs with signs of disease are recommended to be immediately separated so that they do not infect the rest. If there is no warehouse equipped with fans that suck out moist air, then it will be necessary, especially in the first phase of drying, to maintain more low temperature, not higher than 20 ° С.

To suppress fungal diseases, it is recommended to carry out preventive preventive etching of all material. Before starting this work, it is necessary to clear the storage organs from the earth by washing them. This is done as follows: tubers and bulbs are placed in a rare sieve and immersed in a bowl of water. After washing, rinse them with clean water. Finally, having treated the planting material with stain, the liquid is allowed to drain and the plants are left to dry for open space. After that, they are again placed in the storage room.

With all these manipulations with bulbs and tubers, we must remember that we are working with living material, which, in this outwardly calm state, undergoes internal changes, and their course largely depends on the storage conditions and care of the gardener. In short, the quality of storage determines the quality of the future vegetation.

reproduction

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Under natural conditions, bulbous and tuberous flowering plants reproduce both vegetatively and generatively. Unlike most other plants, in representatives of this group, vegetative propagation refers to the main method of natural reproduction. Horticultural crops of many species can generally only be propagated vegetatively.

generative reproduction

Seeds under normal conditions, it is advisable to breed only natural species. Although large-scale production also practices seed breeding of a number of plants whose vegetative propagation is unproductive (this applies to anemones, begonias, cyclamen, freesia, etc.), nevertheless, it cannot be recommended for individual horticulture: the offspring of horticultural crops obtained in this way from these plants happens to be uneven.

seeds natural species it is supposed to be sown in a nursery or on a sowing plot in a nursery. The soil there should be lighter and better cultivated than in normal flower beds and flower beds. For seeds of many species, the optimal sowing depth is 1-2 cm. Sprouted plants remain on the sowing plots for 2-3 years. Species wintering outdoors are sown exclusively in autumn, since their seeds are not able to germinate without freezing, and the rest - in spring.

Tulips from the "Darwin hybrid" group look especially beautiful when planted in large independent groups

Before sowing and during the first growing season, fertilizers are not applied to the soil, but then, in the fall, and then the following spring, young plants are fed in the same way as adults. For 2-3 years, most bulbous species will have small bulbs that need to be transplanted one or two more times, and then grown for another year or two, or even three years. With each transplant, the bulb is immersed deeper and deeper into the ground to provide it with appropriate temperature conditions and required amount moisture. Of course, bulbs of species that do not winter in the soil are harvested annually.

Vegetative reproduction

Vegetative propagation refers to the main method of natural propagation of bulbous and tuberous plants.

Species with an annual bulb, in addition to it, annually form a greater or lesser number of daughters (tulips, irises, hazel grouse). Daughter bulbs grow different in size, but some of them are always flower-bearing. Species with a perennial bulb produce fewer daughter bulbs, and they have to be grown at least within one year to a size that ensures flowering. In this group, daughter bulbs appear only on large parent bulbs. In practice, some bulbous species are used artificial way vegetative propagation by injuring the lower, basal part of an adult bulb (hyacinths, blueberries) or separating scales from it (lilies, hazel grouses). Then, in a room with favorable climatic conditions, on the wounded places or on the separated scales, after some time, small daughter bulbs will develop: they can grow to flower-bearing sizes within 2-4 years.

Species with corms annually form a certain number of flowering daughter corms (colchicums, crocuses, montbrecia). Sometimes, along with one substituting underground organ, they also have many small tuber buds, which are also vegetative reproductive organs (gladiolus, acidantheria, ixiolyrions). Most of these tuber buds are not capable of producing flowers the next year, but they can be grown.

Colchicums are spectacular ornamental plants, the advantages of which are that most of them bloom in autumn. The picture shows Colchiсum byzantinum var. cilicicum with light red flowers

Tuberous species form daughter tubers only in rare cases when the plant itself reaches its maximum size. In this case, in fact, it is not daughter tubers that arise, but the division of the parent into two or more substitutes (dahlias, anemones, eremurus). Therefore, in most tuberous species, only the generative method of reproduction or the artificial vegetative method is used, which is cuttings from young stems (dahlias, begonias).

Small storage organs and young plants of all bulbous and tuberous plants are recommended to be grown using the same agricultural techniques as when caring for adult plants, only giving them more attention. Growing tubers and bulbs are supposed to be planted with even more care and caution than adults, who are easier to tolerate possible care errors. With regard to growing bulbs, it is necessary to strictly observe all the rules of feeding, chemical protection, ensuring the water regime and general care.

Tulipa kaufmanniana "Heart's Delight"

Bulbs and tubers are underground pantries, thanks to which the plant survives the winter cold or periods of drought. These organs, saturated with reserve nutrients, allow the plant to quickly form shoots after a dormant period. If plants with thickened rhizomes, roots and tubers are also included in the bulbous group, then there will be much more of them.
However, we attributed ferns with rhizomes to deciduous plants. We attributed to bulbous and tuberous those houseplants that are stored in winter in a very special way, and then, after a short period of germination, they quickly bloom and bloom. They are planted, as a rule, in early spring, and the pot is immediately placed in a warm place.
In most cases, the above-ground parts of these blooming in summer plants die after the growing season. This process can be stimulated by reducing watering from August. The reserves of nutrients in the underground "pantries" are quite enough to "hibernate" for several years.
The conditions for wintering bulbous and tuberous plants are very simple: the temperature is not higher than 15 ° C, but without frost, in a dry substrate, such as sand, peat or earth.

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Corm perennials are very popular with gardeners. First, they do not need to be planted every year. Secondly, all tuberous flowers are exceptionally decorative. True, caring for them is not as simple as for plants propagated by seeds or shoots, but it's worth it!

Photos and names of tuberous plants are brought to your attention on this page. You will also learn in what conditions you need to grow corm flowers and how to propagate them.

Tuberous perennials: corydalis, gladiolus, crocosmia

Corydalis (CORYDALIS). The smoke family.

Perennial tuberous corydalis are mostly low (10-30 cm) plants with a tuber growing in broad-leaved forests of the temperate zone. The leaves are green, often bluish, appear in early spring and die off by the end of May, that is, these are typical ephemeroids. The flowers are collected in a brush at the top of the stem, bloom in May, in June - bear fruit, form self-sowing.

Types and varieties:

Most other species are grown corydalis hollow (C. cava) with delicate, repeatedly divided leaves and lilac flowers.

Corydalis Marshall (C. marchalliana)- predominantly with creamy yellow flowers.

Corydalis Haller (C. halleri)- pinkish-purple flowers.

Corydalis large bract (C. bracteata)- large light yellow flowers.

Growing conditions. Shady places with loose forest soils.

Reproduction. Seeds (sowing freshly harvested) and tubers. Planting at the end of summer to a depth of 5-7 cm. Planting density - 25 pcs. per 1 m2.

Shady areas are suitable, among shade-loving forbs, in plantings of the "natural garden" type.

Gladiolus, skewer (GLADIOLUS). Iris family.

The name comes from the Latin gladus - "sword" and is given by the shape of the leaves of this plant. There are about 200 species in the genus, all of them tuberous-bulbous.
Flattened corm, lives one season. It is renewed due to tuber-bulb-children.

Perennials with xiphoid leaves, erect stem, bearing at the top an inflorescence spike with 10-30 funnel-shaped flowers.

There are thousands of varieties of these tuberous plants, but they are divided into 5 groups:

• by flower size (giant - flower diameter more than 14 cm, large-flowered - 11-13 cm, medium - 9-11 cm, small - 6-9 cm, miniature - less than 6 cm);
• according to the color of the variety are divided into 13 classes (white, green, yellow, orange, salmon, salmon pink, red, raspberry, pink-lilac, purple, chestnut, smoky, brown);
• by flowering time stand out early (blooming from the end of July), medium (from mid-August), late (from the end of August). One peduncle blooms for about 10 days.

According to the arrangement of flowers in the inflorescence, groups are distinguished: single-row, double-row, regular, bilateral, spiral.

Pay attention to the photos of these tuberous flowers: gladioli, among other things, differ in the shape of the petals: they can be simple, corrugated, folded and dissected.

Types and varieties:

Gladiolus hybrid (G. xhybridus), which is mainly grown by flower growers, was created as a result of complex hybridization involving African species. Types of gladiolus of temperate flora are rarely used, as they have small, quickly fading flowers.

But types like gladiolus tiled (G. imbricatus), can be used in "natural garden" type flower beds.

These tuberous garden flowers best grown in separate flower beds. But lower varieties can be used in mixborders.

Crocosmia, Montbretia (CROCOSMIA=MONTBRETIA). Iris family.

They are perennial tuberous flowers with narrow sword-shaped leaves and funnel-shaped orange-yellow flowers. Height 50-60 cm. middle lane Russia grows mainly cultivars. They have small (2 cm) corms, which form numerous underground stolons, and young plants grow on them.

Known varieties:

Star of the East- with pale orange flowers.

"Chees Madgest"- with orange-scarlet flowers.

"CitroneLLa"- Lemon yellow flowers.

Growing conditions. Wind-sheltered sunny sites with loose, rich, well-drained soils. For the winter, it is necessary to cover with spruce branches or fallen leaves of oak, maple, it is possible to use a thin non-woven covering material.

Reproduction. Seeds, children - in the spring. Seedlings bloom in the 3rd year. Planting density - 16 pcs. per 1 m2.

Corm flowers: crocus, colchicum, liatris

Below are photos and names of tuberous flowers of the Iris, Aster and Colchicum families.

, saffron (CROCUS). Iris family.

Small (10-15 cm) corm plants with a goblet flower and narrow leaves with a white stripe, collected in a bunch. About 90 species are known to grow in the mountains Southern Europe and the Caucasus.

Species and varieties. Spring flowering (bloom in April):

Crocus spring (C. vernus) and its varieties:

"Jeanne D" Arc, "Vanquard", the earliest "Nigro", etc.

Crocus aureus (C.chrysanthus), variety "Saturnus".

Crocus light yellow (C. flavus), variety "Largest YeLLow".

Crocus Tomasini (C. tomasinianus), variety "LiLac Beauty", etc.

Autumn flowering (bloom in September):

Crocus beautiful (C.speciosus), k. Pallas(C. pallasii).

Crocus hill (C. vallicola).

Growing conditions. sunny areas with sandy or stony soils, ordinary garden soils can also be used, but without organic fertilizers.

Reproduction. Corms - children after the end of flowering. Dig up every 4-5 years for rejuvenation. Planting density - 36-40 pcs. per 1 m2.

Use in rockeries, mixed flower beds, gravel gardens. Interesting for forcing. Varieties of crocuses fade very quickly (after 5-6 days), therefore, to prolong the flowering effect, different varieties are combined in one group.

Colchicum, Colchicum (COLCHICUM). Colchicum family (lily).

About 70 species of this genus grow in the damp meadows of the Mediterranean, the Carpathians, and the Caucasus. They have an oblong corm, large, elongated lanceolate leaves are formed in spring, they die off by early summer. At the end of summer, a lilac-purple flower (15 cm high) appears with fused petals, narrowed at the bottom into a long tube, and funnel-shaped at the top.

Species and varieties. About 20 species are grown in culture, most often autumn-blooming:

Colchicum splendid (C. speciosum) and autumn (C. autumnale).

Also spring blooming colchicum brandushka (C. bulbocodium = Bulbocodium vernum). known numerous varieties autumn-blooming colchicum.

Growing conditions. Sunny areas with rich, moist, alkaline soils.

Reproduction. Bulbs - children (in August), seeds (seedlings bloom in the 5-6th year). Planting density -12 pcs. per 1 m2.

As you can see in the photo, these tuberous plants are used in mixed flower beds, in the foreground of mixborders, near the water. Pickup is possible.

Liatris (LIATRIS). Aster family (composite).

A rhizomatous perennial from the dry grasslands of North America. Stems do not branch, erect, 50-80 cm high, leafy.

Types and varieties:

Liatris spikelet(L. spicata), varieties:

Alba, Kobold- wet soils.

Liatris membranous (L. scariosa)- dry soils.

Liatris bushy (L. pycnostachya)- dry soils.

Growing conditions. Sunny (or on the east side of the house) areas with rich, loose, moderately moist soils.

Reproduction. Seeds (sowing in spring), seedlings bloom in the 2nd year. The division of the bush (spring). Tuberous rhizomes grow rapidly, so the bush is divided every 3-4 years. Planting density - 12 pcs. per 1 m2.

Perennial tuberous plants: aronnik, vatochnik, trillium

Aronnik (ARUM). Aroid family.

Original perennials with a tuberous rhizome. These are mainly plants of the Mediterranean, where they live in dry sparse forests. The leaves grow in early spring, they are arrow-shaped, in mid-May small inexpressive flowers appear, collected in an inflorescence-cob, covered with an oval veil. Bedspreads are white, with a dark edge or dark red. Bright red fruits-berries adorn plantings in August.

Types and varieties:

Aronnik spotted (A. maculatum)- cover white.

Aronnik orientalis (A. orientale)- coverlet greenish-white with interception.

Aronnik elongated(A. elongatum)- with a velvety dark red coverlet.

Aronnik Korolkova (A. korolkovii)- the coverlet is elongated, greenish, higher than the leaves.

Growing conditions. Shaded areas with well-drained, neutral, rich forest soils without stagnant moisture, under a canopy of trees, which provides shelter for the winter with leaf litter. Collecting litter is not recommended. Perennial does not need frequent transplants.

Reproduction. Seeds (sowing only freshly harvested) and rhizome sections with a renewal bud (in summer, after the leaves dry out). Landing is shallow (3-5 cm). AT suitable conditions form self-seeding. Planting density - 3-5 pcs. per 1 m2.

Veterinarian (ASCLEPIAS). The gossamer family.

Tuberous milkweed (A. tuberosa) steppe plant. Srednerosly (50-80 cm) bush of strong unbranched shoots covered with oval hairy leaves. The flowers are small orange-yellow in paniculate inflorescence.

Growing conditions. Sunny areas with garden soils and normal moisture. For the winter, cover with spruce branches.

Reproduction. Seeds (sowing before winter) and dividing the bush (in spring and late summer). Planting density -5 pcs. per 1 m2.

Trillium (TRILLIUM). Triyalium (lily) family.

These bulbous flowers are naturally found in forests. East Asia and North America. They have long been known in culture, but due to the difficulties of reproduction in gardens, they are still rare. However, the attractiveness and longevity of trilliums make flower growers spare no effort in growing them. Trilliums have a vertical tuberous rhizome, from which a stem 20-40 cm high leaves with a whorl of three leaves and a single flower above them. A trillium has only three - three leaves, three petals, three sepals.

Species and varieties. Most often cultivated:

trillium gleson (T. glasonii) and Kamchatka (T. camtschatcense).

Trillium grandiflora (T. grandiflorum) and upright (T. erectum).

trillium snowy (T. nivale)- all of them with white flowers.

At trillium wavy(T. undulatum) The flower is white with a pink center.

Red-brown flowers are characteristic of trillium green (T. viride), Trillium Small (T. smallii).

Growing conditions. Trilliums are shade-loving plants that grow well only on loose, fertile forest soils with moderate moisture and shelter for the winter with leaf litter of broad-leaved species.

Reproduction. Reproduction of trilliums is difficult, as they grow very slowly. The division of the bush is carried out at the end of summer. Seeds sown before winter germinate only in the 3rd year, and the seedlings that appear bloom in the 4th-5th year. Planting density - single.

Corm perennials: arizema, simplocarpus, tigridia

Arizema (ARISAEMA). Aroid family.

Graceful, effective exotic plants, mainly growing in tropical forests. But a few species from the forests Far East and North America grow well in central Russia, where they even form self-seeding. These are perennials with a tuberous rounded rhizome, from which a stem with dark green leaves and an inflorescence-cob grows. The cob is covered with a curved veil with stripes. At the end of summer, the plants are decorated with bright red berries.

Types and varieties:

Arizema Amur (A. amurense) and powerful (A. robustum) distinguished by a greenish goblet-shaped veil located under the leaves.

Amaryllis
Amaryllis. This genus belongs to the Amaryllis family, which includes a great many excellent flowering plants, most of which are equipped with bulbs. Some of them can be successfully distilled and are therefore described in the appropriate place. Different kinds with irregular corollas of flowers, formerly attributed to the genus Amaryllis, are distributed by the latest botanists to other, newly established genera. In the genus Amaryllis, there is only one A. Belladonna (beauty amaryllis, fig. ON), which has several varieties. This amaryllis is not one of the most outstanding houseplants, but deserves attention for its fall bloom.

His homeland is the foothills of the Cape of Good Hope. A fully developed bulb reaches very large sizes; its shape is pear-shaped. In summer, it is in a state of complete rest, but in autumn an ​​arrow appears about 45-50 cm tall, carrying an umbrella of 4-8 flowers, often pleasantly smelling. These flowers are a little fewer flowers a small variety of the common white lily and are very similar in shape to it. The color of the flowers of the main species is pale pink, but in varieties it is bright red, purple and white. Numerous large dark green leaves appear simultaneously with flowers or after them and develop slowly throughout the winter and spring, then dry up, and the bulb again plunges into a state of complete dormancy.

The culture should correspond to the described way of life of the plant. Toward the end of the resting period, in August, the bulbs should be planted one or more together in appropriately sized pots in sandy soil (preferably equal parts clay sod, leaf and sand) and then placed in a sunny window in a ventilated room. Before the appearance of flower buds, watering is the most moderate. Faded bulbs are removed for the winter in a cool, but frost-proof room and kept moderately humid. As soon as the leaves begin to die off, watering is gradually completely stopped; at the end of growth, the bulbs are taken out of the ground, cleaned and kept completely dry until new landing into the ground in August.

Much more interesting for culture in rooms are large-flowered amaryllis, which modern botanists attribute to the genus Hippeastrum (Fig. 111), but which continue to be called amaryllis in gardens. These plants with long time ago enjoy the favor of lovers indoor floriculture; Recently, varieties and hybrids have appeared with huge flowers of various shades of red, sometimes with white stripes on a red background and vice versa. These excellent garden varieties owe their origin to cross-fertilization between different original species, of which only one, H. vittatum (striped amaryllis), is still cultivated in large numbers. Flowers of all varieties have the shape of a funnel, composed of six petals. Species and varieties of the genus Hippeastrum do not have a period of complete rest, although they belong to the number of bulbous plants; they have only a temporary suspension of growth. Their flowering time is winter and summer.

Some of the most beautiful and graceful varieties of Amaryllis (Hippeastrum), with large upright flowers, are quite demanding in cultivation and require a lot of heat; ordinary varieties belong to the most grateful houseplants.

The first thing you should pay attention to when growing amaryllis is the earth. For all varieties without exception, it should be nutritious, heavy, best of all - composed of equal parts of leaf, greenhouse and sod land, with an abundant admixture of coarse sand. The second circumstance that should not be overlooked in the culture of amaryllis is that during the suspension of growth, the bulbs never lose their roots. In summer, plants are kept by an open window or on an outdoor windowsill, watered abundantly and protected from too hot sun. When the growth of dense, belt-like leaves ends in autumn, watering is reduced and then, even before the onset of cold nights, the pots are moved to a cool room with an average temperature of about 8 °, where they are content with any place, even not very bright. This is the beginning of their dormant period, which, however, as mentioned above, is never complete, since the roots do not die off. Therefore, watering should be continued; but so moderate that the ground was dry rather than wet. To do this, it is best to pour water occasionally on pallets and completely stop watering on the surface of the earth for this time. Those varieties in which the leaves die off are kept drier than those in which the leaves remain fresh. Pots with young bulbs that are not yet able to give color can be left in a cool room until late spring; the same bulbs from which flowering can be expected should be transferred to a warmer room after rest. By doing this sooner or later, the hobbyist can speed up or delay the appearance of the flowers as desired. If the bulbs rearranged in a warm place continue to be kept completely dry, then the flower arrows will not slow down to appear. In order for the formation of flowers to proceed normally, the plants are not given water until the arrows reach 6-9 cm in height; only then begin to evenly water with heated water. Flower arrows develop quickly, while leaves appear either simultaneously with flowers or after flowering. If you resume watering the bulbs too early, i.e. at the time when the flower arrows are just showing, then the leaves will begin to grow, and the flower arrows will not develop. The later the bulbs are moved to a warm place (for example, in February or March), the flowers will develop more successfully. However, it is quite possible to achieve much earlier flowering: the translator of this book has some specimens of amaryllis in bloom every year at Christmas.

At the end of flowering, the second period of culture begins. The bulbs are transplanted at this time, for which they are taken out of the pots, shake off all the old earth from the fleshy roots and remove all spoiled roots with a sharp knife. New pots should be clean and spacious enough that the roots can fit without being too tight. When transplanting, it is necessary to ensure that the bulbs sit in the ground no deeper than two-thirds of their height. After transplantation, amaryllis is watered and placed on the windows of warm rooms. AT good weather window vents are kept open, and in June the pots can be completely exposed to the air.

There is another way to culture amaryllis, which differs from the one described mainly in the time of transplantation. Bulbs are transplanted into fresh soil when they want to force them to resume growth after rest. At the same time, the earth is used quite wet, and the roots are handled very carefully. After transplanting, the plants are placed, if possible, in the warmest place and do not water until the flower arrows appear. Flowering occurs a month and a half after transplantation. In summer, the bulbs are watered several times with liquid manure fertilizer (mullein). In August, watering is gradually stopped and the bulbs are put to rest. Otherwise, the content of amaryllis by this method is similar to that described above.

Most amateurs make a big mistake in the culture of amaryllis, which is that they do not give the bulbs a rest at all, continuing to keep them warm in winter and watering them abundantly. Although plants from such improper care and do not die, but their continuously developing leaves are painful and short-lived, while flowers appear extremely rarely.

For reproduction of amaryllis in the room, children can serve, growing in many varieties in fairly large numbers near the old bulb. You can separate the baby only when it develops several of its own roots, which usually happens after a year or a year and a half. However, it must be noted that old bulb grows and blooms the more successfully, the sooner the children are removed from it; it is best to do this when transplanting.

Tuberous hybrid begonia
Begonia hybrida (tuberous hybrid begonia). Various varieties reached in last years, due to its outstanding qualities, especially widespread. Currently, they should be ranked among the best flowering plants for pot and soil culture. The metamorphosis that took place with these plants under the influence of culture is striking: from the original species, which had almost no decorative value, with long grassy stems, small pointed leaves and drooping four-petal flowers, varieties with strong, but low growth, large beautiful leaves and upright large flowers (Fig. 112).

Rice. 112. Simple tuberous begonia with erect flowers.

Modern tuberous begonias in all their forms are the product of the art of hybridizing gardeners. Many English, Belgian, German and French gardeners have been and continue to breed hybrid varieties of begonias. At the St. Petersburg exhibitions of recent years, one could admire excellent varieties of tuberous begonias bred by St. Petersburg amateurs. The tuberous begonias, imported from their homeland (America), although they bloomed lightly and profusely, the flowers themselves were, as already mentioned, very small in size, and therefore an attempt was made to achieve their increase by cross-pollination between different original species. In 1882 Begonia Martiana gracilis appeared in the trade; opened in S. Louis de Potosi. This species, which has a dense upright growth, round tubers, fleshy leaves with a metallic sheen and erect pink flowers, emerging from the leaf axils, is undoubtedly the most beautiful of the main species. He contributed a lot to obtaining new outstanding varieties.

In recent years, tuberous begonias have been brought to an extremely high degree of perfection; the wildest expectations of the growers were exceeded, for there was no example of a plant genus being able to transform itself to such an extent in such a comparatively short time. AT modern form tuberous begonias are plants of outstanding beauty. There can be no doubt that these plants will forever remain among the favorites of all persons involved in the culture of flowers.

Rice. 113. Terry tuberous begonia.

The arrows emerging from the leaf axils carry several flowers of a noble structure. These flowers are unisexual; on the same arrow there are both male and female flowers. Men's are more numerous than women's and at the same time they are the most beautiful. Coloring of flowers from the most gentle pink to fiery and dark red; white and yellow colors are less common. Flowers the best forms reach at good care 18 cm across. Recently, excellent terry varieties have also been bred. Of these, forms with upright flowers and correctly arranged petals are especially good. On fig. 113 shows a plant with double flowers, and in fig. 114 - a separate flower of one of the newest terry varieties, M-me la Baronne de St. Didier life size. In terms of the size of the flowers, the nobility of their structure and the beautiful character of the terry, this variety has not yet been surpassed. The doubleness of flowers occurs, as you know, due to the transformation of stamens into petals; so begonias only male flowers are terry. As a rarity, there are specimens in which all flowers are terry, in other words, female flowers do not appear on them.

Until recently, however, all begonias had one drawback, which, however, is characteristic of many other plants that have flowers of a noble shape and bright color: they did not have a fragrance. The newest acquisition in the field of begonia culture are varieties with a pleasant smell.

Rice. 114. Terry begonia flower M-me la Baronne de St. Didier (life size).

The ancestor of all such varieties is Begonia Baumanni. According to the Revue horti-cole, the named species was found in Cochabamba (Bolivia) by Dr. Sell, who sent in 1886 the first seeds of it to a certain Mr. Bauman in Bolweiler (Alsace). The latter brought plants out of these seeds, and the new kind was named after him. At home, fragrant begonia forms giant tubers, reaching the size of an average melon and weighing up to 450 g. Its leaves are not oblique, but round and reniform; flowers, unfortunately, small, pink; their scent is subtle and pleasant. By crossing this species with giant non-scented varieties, rather large-flowered varieties have been bred in recent years, which have a pleasant smell and carry their flowers, like the parent species, high above the leaves. One of these plants is shown in Fig. 115.

At present, great success has been achieved not only in the development of new beautiful varieties but also in the ways of culture. Previously, the opinion prevailed that tuberous begonias for good growth and flowering requires maintenance in hot greenhouses. Soon, however, they became convinced that the simplest care gave incomparably more favorable results, and this served as an impetus for the popularization of tuberous begonias.

Rice. 115. Fragrant tuberous begonia.

In order to become worthy of wide distribution, a plant must, in addition to beauty, satisfy some other conditions, among which are undemanding maintenance and the ability to bloom profusely and for a long time. All these conditions are met by tuberous begonias. In addition to the fact that they are quite suitable for planting in flower beds and flower beds both in the sun and in semi-shaded places in the garden, it is difficult to find best plant for decorating flower boxes, as well as for potted culture. Potted specimens like to stand in the hot season in the air; due to strong growth and abundant flowering, the soil in pots is quickly depleted, so in the summer it is necessary to transplant the plants several times in oily, slightly sandy greenhouse soil, not forgetting to apply liquid fertilizers. Watering should be strong.

The translator of this book uses a slightly different soil in the culture of tuberous begonias: 3 parts of fatty greenhouse soil are mixed with 2 parts of light fibrous heather or peat and 1 part of sand. This mixture, when transplanting plants, is poured into pots very loosely and is not crushed; to besiege the earth, it is enough to knock the bottom of the pot two or three times on the table. Experience has shown that, under this condition, the growth of begonias is much more luxurious than in denser soil.

In late autumn, when the tuberous begonias have reached their highest stage of development, there is a delay in their further growth; this means that they begin to prepare for rest, i.e., for that state into which the vast majority of bulbous and tuberous plants fall annually. As soon as the first signs of stunted growth are noticed, watering is reduced for begonias and, finally, after the leaves and segmented shoots fall off, they completely stop it. When the earth is completely dry, the tubers are removed from the pots and kept dry in the winter in a room inaccessible to freezing. At the same time, a small percentage of tubers disappear over the winter; this phenomenon is inevitable. It is necessary, however, to periodically review the tubers in order to remove diseased or rotten ones in a timely manner. Begonia tubers can be stored dry for a very long time, until May, you can also bring them to life as early as January; in this way we are able, within certain limits, to hasten or retard the onset of flowering. The tubers to be distilled are planted in pots filled with sandy heather soil. At the same time, only the lower part of the tuber is immersed in the ground, while the upper part is left above the ground: this facilitates the germination of young shoots. Subsequently - during transplantation - the tubers are deepened into the ground as a whole. Pots are placed on the windows of living rooms, evenly watered and protected from strong sunlight. Begonia tubers planted in the ground usually start growing not immediately, but after a more or less significant period of time; but as soon as the first roots and first buds appear, the leaves begin to unfold quickly one after another, and after a few weeks even the smallest tubers develop strong shoots covered with beautiful leaves and flowers. Therefore, tubers that do not show signs of life for a long time should not be thrown away: as long as the tuber planted in the ground is hard and dense to the touch, there is no reason to doubt its health, even if it made it wait twice as long for the appearance of new growth than the rest.

An extremely interesting and rewarding activity is the removal of tuberous begonias from seeds. Best time for this - February and early March. Begonia seeds are very small; it is best to sow them on pieces of peat cut in the form of thin layers. These layers are placed on pallets and covered with glass, then placed on the window. warm room and protect from the sun. In order not to move the seeds from their places, watering is carried out on pallets, from where the peat absorbs the necessary amount of moisture. At average temperature around 12°, the seeds germinate no later than two weeks later. Small roots are well attached to the coarse fibers of peat, and therefore the seedlings do not fall when sprayed with a spray gun, as often happens if the sowing is done in finely sifted soil. Therefore, the use of peat makes it possible not to hurry too much with the dive of the seedlings; this can be safely postponed until the size of the seedlings allows you to pick them up with your fingers. Planting is carried out in not particularly finely sifted soil and is repeated every two to three weeks until the development of the plants allows them to be planted singly in small pots. With very good care, begonias sown in February - March bloom in June - July and manage to form rather large tubers before the rest period.

Simple (non-double) begonias are reproduced from seeds almost constantly. If seeds are collected from exemplary specimens, then only a small percentage of seedlings turn out to be of lower value than the plant that produced the seeds. Unfortunately, the situation is much worse with double varieties: in these varieties, the stamens of male flowers, turned into petals, are sterile, and therefore female flowers, in order to produce seeds, must be fertilized with pollen from male flowers of non-double varieties. Therefore, of the plants obtained from such seeds, only 10 - 15% have good, densely double flowers, while the rest give poor simple or semi-double flowers. The best of the terry varieties can only be accurately reproduced by cuttings, which, although they take root and bloom, in most cases do not form a real tuber, but only a tuber-like thickening, and almost always disappear in winter.

Canna Crozi

Rice. 116. Cannes Crozi.

Some Petersburg amateurs successfully practice a very ingenious way of obtaining seeds of terry varieties. This method is based on the property of terry begonias - to give in the fall, when abundant flowering somewhat deplete plants, semi-double flowers, from which it is possible to collect some pollen. If the female flowers of densely double varieties are fertilized with this pollen, the resulting seeds often produce over 90% of plants with double flowers. In order to get not quite double flowers as early as possible, those specimens from which they want to collect pollen are planted in leaner soil and do not give them fertilizing watering in summer, but water all the time only with clean water.

mutually fertilize common varieties medium dignity, both simple and terry, is not worth it, since the offspring of such plants are only in rare cases worthy of culture. good results can only be expected from the mutual fertilization of outstanding varieties.

Sappa (canna), inbiraceae family. Ancient types and varieties of garden cannes have long been known as beautiful perennials for leaf groups. They have strong tuber-like rhizomes that develop into herbaceous stems in spring, often over 2.5 m tall, covered with large oval green, red or occasionally striped leaves.

Rice. 117. Orchid-colored cannes.

The stems bear at the top a panicle of rather insignificant red or yellow flowers with an irregular corolla. In recent years, beautifully and profusely flowering varieties have been bred, quite worthy in their qualities to take a place on the windows of an amateur. There are two beautiful groups flowering varieties cannes: cannes with flowers reminiscent of hybrid skewers (Gladiolus), known in the trade under the name Crozy cannes (Cappa Crozy, fig. 116), after the name of the French gardener who first bred them, and recently appeared orchid-colored cannes (fig. 117) , which can be considered an improvement on the first group and whose flowers really resemble the flowers of some orchids. These large-flowered varieties are colored in all sorts of shades of yellow and red; in some varieties, these colors are arranged on the petals in beautiful spots and patterns. Crosi cannas have an irregular corolla and the petals are not particularly wide, while the newest orchid cannas have wide and rounded petals, and the shape of the corolla approaches the correct one.

Rice. 118. Canna rhizome, cleared of earth.

The culture of these beautiful plants, blooming in summer and possessing, in addition to flowers, decorative foliage, quite simple. Resting rhizomes are planted in pots from February to April. Before planting or later, when new growth appears, the rhizomes can be cut into several pieces (see Fig. 35), and care should be taken that each piece of rhizome is provided with at least one eye or sprout. The surface of the cuts, which emit a viscous, sticky juice, should be sprinkled with coal powder. For planting, nutritious, rather heavy soil is used (2/3 greenhouse and Ouse clay, or turf with manure in half, with an abundant admixture of sand). Pots are taken so close that the rhizomes can hardly fit in them. The planted tubers are placed as warmly as possible, they are watered with heated water, at first moderately, and with the advent of strong sprouts more abundantly. To gradually accustom cannes to the air, they use warm spring days and open the window, and later the entire window. At the beginning of June, the plants are placed on outdoor window sills or planted from pots in balcony flower boxes, where they develop luxuriously. Instances remaining in pots should be fertilized abundantly throughout the summer and, as the roots grow, transplanted into larger pots. With the onset of autumn, the plants are again rearranged to the windows, they often bloom here, under the protection of glasses, until deep winter.

Faded cannes begin to gradually water less and less; then, when all the leaves are dry, the plants are taken out of the pots, the earth is shaken off the roots, all the stems and roots are cut off at a distance of about 2.5 cm from the tuber (Fig. 118), the tubers cleaned in this way are put in boxes, covered with barely damp sand and put for the winter in a basement inaccessible to frost or a cool pantry. The earlier the time of rest came for the tubers, the earlier in the spring you can bring them back to life.

Rice. 119. Colchicum automnale speciosum.

In addition to the method of propagation of cannas by division mentioned above, they can also be propagated by sowing seeds. Large, hard seeds are placed for a week in warm water and then plant them singly in small pots, where, with sufficient heat and moisture, they will soon germinate. Many varieties of cannes produce seeds easily if exposed to air during flowering; if they are left on the window for the whole summer, then artificial pollination is necessary to obtain seeds. Hobbyists can start breeding new varieties by producing cross pollination between outstanding varieties.

Colchicum (colchicum, autumn). Belongs to the lily family. Recently, in Holland, they began to cultivate in large numbers a beautiful form of the common autumn plant (Colchicum automnale), often found in damp meadows in Central Europe and the Caucasus, namely C. automnale speciosum (Fig. 119). The bulbs of this variety are traded in bulk every year in autumn. The best of them reach a weight of 340 g and contain a large amount of reserve nutrient material necessary for the development of flowers. These bulbs are planted in pots with any kind of soil, or placed in bowls filled with wet sand, or, finally, simply placed on windowsills without any utensils. Here they quickly develop one flower after another, with each bulb producing from 10 to 30 or even more pale pink flowers. Our drawing (Fig. 119) represents an unplanted bulb in bloom. Colchicum leaves grow only in spring and, moreover, only in specimens planted in the ground, while unplanted bulbs shrink and lose their strength after flowering. Bulbs planted in a timely manner in sandy light soddy soil with an admixture of humus can bloom a second time the next autumn, provided that they are given proper rest in a cool room where they are kept quite humid.

Crinum
Crinum (crinum). The beautiful bulbous plants belonging to this genus from the Amaryllis family are among the most grateful for room culture, especially since they never remain without leaves and therefore can serve as a decoration for the room all year round. The leaves of all krinums are green, large, long and wide; flower umbrellas are very elegant. The homeland of the krinums is the Cape of Good Hope, tropical Asia, America and New Holland.

Species of outstanding beauty: Crinum Yemense, with satin white and C. Kirkii, with large white purple-striped flowers. Also very good for keeping C. amabile, C. asi-aticume C. Balfourii, C. erubescens, C. giganteum, C. purpurascens and some others in rooms.

Krynum bulbs are very large and produce many fleshy roots. Therefore, they are cultivated in large pots, in the soil, composed of nutritious sod in half with leaves, with an abundant admixture of sand. Old specimens are transplanted after a year. Care is not difficult.

In winter, the plants are kept quite dry, but not quite, but in the summer they are watered abundantly; it is best to put them in the summer months in a slightly shaded and wind-sheltered area of ​​the garden or on a balcony. Plants in bloom are very beautiful.

Reproduction - children of bulbs.

Cyclamen (alpine violet, dryakva). Well-known beautiful plants with kidney-shaped, usually elegantly painted leaves and peculiar, delicately colored flowers, often emitting a pleasant aroma. Persian cyclamen (Cyclamen persicum) is highly valued as a grateful and profusely flowering indoor plant in winter. This species has been in culture for several centuries and has formed many varieties. Motherland Persian cyclamen, contrary to the name, not Persia, but the island of Cyprus, Syria and Palestine.

Among lovers of flowering plants, Persian cyclamen is as common as primrose. Despite the sharp external differences, these two plants belong to the same family - primroses (primulaceae). From the flat, disc-shaped, half-submerged tuber of the Persian cyclamen, a large number of long-petiolate, almost always beautifully mottled leaves grow, which, in free-standing specimens, are distributed evenly in all directions, so that the whole plant takes on the appearance of a hemisphere. summer among leaf petioles flower buds are formed on tubers, sometimes in hundreds. They develop very slowly at first, but from September they outgrow the leaves, and then beautiful flowers bloom above the latter, to which the turned and sometimes spirally twisted petals give an original and interesting look. The larger the flowers and the purer and brighter their color, the more they are valued. Those involved in breeding new varieties pay the main attention to these two qualities. White color quite pure is rarely found, while red shades form a full range, starting with the most delicate pink and ending with the darkest purple and fiery red; there are also white flowers with red and red with light spots. Even terry varieties have been bred, but they are inferior in beauty and grace to ordinary ones. Some varieties have a somewhat sharp, but nevertheless pleasant smell. So far, efforts to obtain new varieties with a more subtle and noble aroma have, unfortunately, not yet led to any results.

Nearly all commercial horticulturalists produce large quantities of Persian cyclamens every year for sale, such as the one shown in our figure (Fig. 120). You should buy only such plants, the tubers of which rise above the ground, and not buried in it, and, moreover, well-rooted, that is, bred in pots, and not transplanted into pots from beds. We also recommend that when buying, pay attention to the leaves: they should not be dangling or tied with a washcloth to sticks, but should sit firmly on the tuber and hold on without the help of any kind of support. In addition, you should not buy plants that bloom already in August, as they fade very soon. You should choose specimens that only open their first flowers in October, with a large supply of buds.

No matter how good and healthy the purchased plants are, they mostly disappear from inexperienced lovers. The reason is the fact that although cyclamens bloom throughout the winter, they are just as difficult to tolerate. high temperature like primroses. Therefore, they should be kept in a cool room, for example, in a bright room with a temperature of 6-10 ° or in the cool window greenhouse described above (see Fig. 6). In such a room, cyclamens bloom extremely profusely and for a long time, developing flower after flower, sometimes 20-30 at a time. At this time, plants should be given occasionally weak liquid fertilizer and keep them moderately moist. When watering, the jet of water should be directed as close as possible to the edge of the pot so as not to soak the tubers. If this precaution is not observed, not only the buds, but the tuber itself can easily rot, which will entail, in the first case, the cessation of flowering and illness, and in the second, the final death of the plant. It is advisable to water the cyclamens from a pallet, as this eliminates any chance that could lead to rotting. Withered flowers and yellowed leaves should be carefully torn off along with the stems.
After flowering, in late spring, the rest period begins for cyclamen. Professional gardeners tend to discard faded tubers, preferring to breed new ones from seed; amateurs often cultivate their plants for many years, bringing them to bloom every year. To do this, proceed as follows: watering the faded plants is gradually stopped, why the leaves turn yellow and dry, and by June the tubers remain naked; then they carry the pots into the garden and put them under some thick bush. Due to the fact that the roots of cyclamen do not die off, but remain viable, plants should be watered from time to time so as not to bring the earth to complete drying. With the onset of the rainy season, that is, in September, the tubers begin to show signs of life again; then they are brought into the room, transplanted into a greenhouse or soddy soil in half with some kind of humus, that is, leafy, heather, woody or peat, mixed with sand, put on a window illuminated by the morning sun, and begin to evenly water.

Persian cyclamen

Cyclamens are propagated by seeds. You can get the seeds yourself from flowers that bloom closer to spring, but for this they must be fertilized. It is impossible to get pollen from the anthers with a brush due to the special structure of the flower, and therefore they proceed as follows: they fold their fingers, as if for a click, and give the middle finger a few light and frequent clicks on the flower stalk to shake it quite strongly; pollen is released in the form of a cloud and fertilization takes place. For the described operation, choose a time around noon on a clear, sunny day. The fertilized flower fades quickly, its stalk bends strongly and hangs over the edge of the pot, and after a few weeks a round box filled with hard seeds ripens. They should be sown in August, in pots or bowls, and kept evenly moist and very warm. Under these conditions, seedlings are shown after 4-6 weeks. They are rearranged on the windowsill and shaded from the midday sun. Seedlings very quickly form small, at first perfectly round tubers. When the second or third leaf appears, the seedlings dive; secondary picking is done in winter, and in spring the seedlings have time to develop so well that they are seated one by one in the smallest pots. From now on, professional gardeners put cyclamens in greenhouses, as close as possible to the glass, where the plants reach their full development; the amateur has only a window sill at his disposal. Here he educates his young plants, transplanting them during the summer several times as they develop (young cyclamens do not rest in summer) and maintaining increased growth all the time with uniform watering, shading, spraying and fertilizer, without abusing, however, the latter. However, it should be noted that cyclamens grown in a room never reach such perfection as those bred in a greenhouse. Along with the Persian cyclamen, some lovers bring up the European cyclamen (Cyclamen europaeum), better known as the alpine violet (Fig. 121). This plant is found wild throughout the Alps and settles in places where a calcareous subsoil lies under the upper humus soil layer. The European cyclamen is smaller and more delicate than its oriental relative and, with good care, becomes very elegant. It is quite worthy of breeding both for its good looks and pleasant aroma, and for the late onset of flowering, which occurs when the Persian cyclamen has long faded, namely in July and August. Flower lovers often bring back from their travels in the Alps flowering plants, but in most cases without a real tuber, but only with its adnexal processes, and in this case the plant is doomed to an early death. The fact is that with a thick humus soil layer, the tubers of this alpine violet sit very deep in the ground, so it is extremely difficult, and sometimes completely impossible, to dig them out. Such deep-seated tubers are completely unsuitable for pot culture. Tubers should be collected in places where the thinnest layer of humus lies on top of the limestone rock, since under these conditions the tubers do not give shoots, but only small elevations on which leaves and flowers develop. Such tubers are taken out together with the earth surrounding them and tied with moss, leaving the flowers and leaves free. Packed in this way, cyclamens endure a journey of several weeks, and the moss surrounding the ground must be periodically moistened with water. Upon returning from a journey, the plants should be planted as soon as possible singly in pots appropriate to the size of the tubers. In this case, the earth is used the same as for the Persian cyclamen, but finely crushed pieces of limestone or chalk are added to it.