Black spot on roses: how to fight? How to process and treat

How disappointing when, wanting to cut a bouquet of fresh fragrant flowers, you approach a rose bush and notice black spots on the leaves of a rose. And the point is not only that the aesthetic appearance of such a bouquet can no longer be given. The rose bush may simply die.

The disease starts from the bottom of the plant and gradually rises up. The spots increase, unite. Leaves turn yellow and fall off. Bushes can remain completely bare. Flowers also lose their attractiveness. Buds are formed less and less.

If measures are not taken to save the bush, it dies within two to three years.

Black spot on roses is an insidious fungal disease caused by the fungus Marssonina rosae.

Black spot on roses, fortunately, can be cured if you take action immediately, when the first signs of the disease are detected. In flowers, as in people, it is easier to prevent a disease than to deal with it.

What measures can be taken to prevent the development of rose disease - black spot?

  • when buying, choose varieties resistant to black spot;
  • collect and burn the affected leaves so that fungal spores do not fall on other bushes;
  • correct pruning roses increases the resistance of plants to black spot;
  • do not allow the soil around the bushes to grow with weeds;
  • spray rose bushes infusion or horsetail;
  • in rainy weather, sprinkle the ground around the bushes with ash and treat the leaves with special preparations (Rovral, Fitosporin, Gamair).

Black spot of roses - treatment

If, nevertheless, the plant is sick, then do not be discouraged. It is possible to cure it. What do I need to do:

  • carefully collect and burn diseased leaves;
  • carry out therapeutic spraying of the bush with special preparations.

How to treat spotted roses?

In addition to black spotting, the rose suffers from several more types of spotting. Treatment is the same for all types of diseases. Specialized stores offer a huge selection of drugs for the treatment of these insidious diseases. But, guided by the reviews of gardeners, we recommend that you try a very effective treatment, which consists in alternating spraying the bush with drugs of different effects.

In the first week, spraying with preparations containing mancozeb, such as Gold, Profit, is used.

A week later, spraying is carried out with preparations containing triazole (Skor, Topaz).

In total, no more than three such courses are repeated.

Inspect bushes frequently for signs of disease. It is always easier to prevent a disease than to fight it. The rose will thank you for your attention and care with a lush blooming view.

Rose, like a real queen of the garden, requires constant attention. Except proper watering, timely top dressing, summer, spring and autumn pruning, they must be protected from various diseases and prevent the invasion of pests.

Among the many problems in the first place is the black spot of rose leaves. It is impossible to get rid of this disease; every year it manifests itself on rose bushes to one degree or another.

What kind of disease is black spotting?

The cause of this disease is Marssonina rosae, a fungus that can be found anywhere and everywhere where roses grow. For the time being, he can be at rest until the certain conditionshigh humidity ambient air, accompanied by a low temperature. In such an environment, the spores of the fungus begin to become more active and infect the leaves of roses. At the same time, they are carried to other bushes with drops of water from rain, when watering or with dew.

The disease contributes to:

  • A dense planting of rose bushes when the wind cannot dry the leaves after watering, dew or rain.
  • High doses of nitrogen in the soil, which are applied in the form of top dressings. This reduces the immunity of the plant, since nutrition for any plant must be balanced. Lack or overdose weakens roses. If a lot of nitrogen has been added to the soil, then phosphorus and potassium must be added.
  • Wrong spring.

The first signs of the disease are manifested by the appearance of dark uneven spots on the leaves of the rose, which quickly cover the entire leaf plate, after which it curls, dries up and falls off.

Together with the leaves, dormant spores of the fungus also go into the soil.

If in spring and early summer the black spot of roses does not manifest itself in any way, then in the middle of summer it can hit all rose bushes and, believe me, this is not a very beautiful sight. Plants stand completely naked. It comes to the fact that there is not a single leaf on the bushes. Of course, roses will grow foliage again, but at the same time they expend their energy on growing new leaves when it is necessary to prepare for winter. Therefore, not all plants come out of hibernation, and the cause here may be just such a disease, and not freezing of the rose.

Prevention of black spotting of roses

Any disease is easier to prevent than to treat for a long time. Everyone knows this, but not every rose lover uses prevention methods in his flower garden. First of all, it is necessary to focus on the fact that not all roses are equally susceptible to this disease. When buying, you must choose those varieties of roses that are most resistant to this disease.

All fallen leaves should be immediately removed from under the rose bushes so that the spores of the fungus remain as little as possible in the soil.

Before sheltering for the winter, roses should be treated in autumn against black spotting with preparations containing copper.

At autumn pruning roses must be burned. It is not worth the risk and put the waste of diseased plants in a compost heap, so as not to produce an infection on the site.

Getting by without chemicals?

It will help reduce the risk of rose diseases such as black spot black spot and periodic spraying of plants with preparations with copper or natural infusions.

When wet and cool weather sets in, it is necessary to prepare roses by cutting out all the small shoots going inside the bush. Remove weeds and till the soil under the roses wood ash, and spray the leaves with a solution of Fitosporin, Gamair, or Alirin B.

Good results are obtained when spraying rose bushes with compositions from natural products:

  • mullein infusion;
  • husks of garlic or onions;
  • infusion of field horsetail;
  • dry wood ash;
  • nettle infusion with dandelion.

Treatment of roses from black spot with a concentrated infusion of mullein is in early spring while there are no leaves yet. After the earthen pile is moved away from the rose bushes and the shelter is removed. While there are no leaves, there is nothing to burn, but the shoots will survive. Just pour all the shoots from the watering can. In order to prevent such treatment, it is advised to carry out several times during the summer. But in summer, the infusion is diluted with water 1:10. The procedure is not entirely pleasant, given the outgoing aromas, but effective according to many rose growers.

Infusions or decoctions of onion or garlic peel use undiluted when the color of the liquid resembles weakly brewed tea. Spraying is carried out at any time, either in spring or summer.

Black spot rose preparations

after hom treatment

If the natural infusions of the decoction are of no use, heavy artillery enters the battle in the form chemicals containing mainly copper and fungicides. As a preventive measure, when the weather worsens, plant immunity support can be applied. To do this, they process roses with such means as Tsiovit, Epin, or Epin-Extra.

If black spot appears on roses, treatment is carried out until it disappears, every 10-12 days. And in order for the plant not to get used to one drug, they need to be changed or alternated. Large selection:

  • Oksikhom;
  • Profit;
  • Ridomil Gold;
  • Phytosporin;
  • Abiga Peak;
  • Thiovit-Jack;
  • Topaz or Skor and many others.

Naturally, before using this or that drug, you must carefully read the attached instructions.

The treatment of roses with preparations is carried out until the leaf plate is completely wetted early in the morning or in the evening, when the rays of the sun can no longer burn the leaves.

After all, each drop acts like a lens, increasing the risk of getting burned hundreds of times. If the weather is cloudy, you need to count on at least 3-4 hours before the rain. If there are few bushes, you can make a shelter in the form of an umbrella over each so that the drug does not wash off with rain.

Usage preventive measures it may well protect plants from such a disease, and you will not have a question - black spot of roses and how to deal with it.

Leaf spot is a common ailment of many ornamental plants. In this article, we will tell you why yellow, black, white, brown, rusty and red spots appear on rose leaves.

If your roses are spotted, then the flowers are sick or stressed because they grow in unsuitable conditions. Let's figure out what to do with it

Brown and brown spots on roses

Brown spots on rose leaves often indicate brown spotting (cercosporosis). However, they usually have a black border. This fungal disease is provoked heat and air humidity.

Dark- brown spots can also signal other fungal diseases of roses: septoria, pestalotia, phyllostictosis. According to the external signs of the spots, these ailments are very similar, so it makes no sense for beginners to puzzle over which disease attacked the rose, but it is better to stock up on fungicides.

black spots on roses

At the beginning of summer, especially if it is cool and rainy, roses may form on the leaves of roses. dark spots, which gradually merge and blacken. In these places, swellings of a rounded or oblong shape often appear.

This disease is called black spot. Its causative agent is a fungus Marssonina rosae. Over time, the affected leaves fall off, the plant's immunity decreases, flowering does not occur.

The symptoms are very similar to black spot downy mildew. But with the last disease, the spots on the leaves of a rose can be not only black, but also reddish-brown, purple or violet.

Roses with glossy and leathery leaves are less susceptible to spotting.

white spots on roses

The most common cause of white spots on rose leaves is a fungus. Sphaerotheca pannosa, which calls powdery mildew. It affects not only leaves, but also buds, shoots, fruits of plants.

First, a white cobweb or powdery coating appears on the affected roses. Later it becomes brownish-gray. The spores of the fungus are formed throughout the summer and are carried by the wind over long distances. The leaves of diseased roses curl, the plants weaken and risk dying during wintering. Dampness, thickened plantings, excess nitrogen, calcium deficiency in the soil contribute to the development of the disease.

If small white spots and specks appear on the upper side of the rose leaves, then the reason for this may be rose leafhopper. it yellow insect(up to 4 mm long) is easy to spot. It hides in reverse side leaf along the veins, and if the plant is shaken, the cicada quickly jumps or flies away.

Cicadas eat away the flesh of the leaves and suck the juice out of them. They usually appear in very dry and hot weather. Help get rid of the pest systemic insecticides(for example, Aktar).

yellow spots on roses

Leaf yellowing is most often due to potassium and/or iron deficiency. In this case, the edges of the leaves turn yellow, and the veins remain green. Over time, young leaves become reddish-purple. Most of the elements are missing roses growing on sandy and peaty soils.

To save the flowers, they need to be fed. potash fertilizers(for example, potassium sulfate or potassium magnesia) at the rate of 1 tbsp. for 10 liters of water and 2-3 times per season foliar top dressing iron supplements or complex fertilizer Kemira Universal (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water).

Yellow-green mottling, which appears mainly on lower leaves, - sign rose mosaic virus. As a result, the leaves fall prematurely, the number of shoots decreases.

A diseased plant cannot be saved. It will be possible to avoid the disease if you carefully choose high-quality seedlings, and when pruning and grafting, disinfect the tool with a pink solution of potassium permanganate.

Red spots on roses

Bright purple and cherry leaves often appear in "sunbathing" roses. Plants that do not like bright light or are simply not used to it become covered with red spots - sunburn.

Such roses need to be shaded or transplanted to a new place.

Also, red spots on rose leaves may appear due to a lack of such important elements, how phosphorus, magnesium, nitrogen.

With a deficiency of phosphorus, plants must be fed with superphosphate (1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), magnesium sulfate or ash should be added to the soil to replenish magnesium, and spraying nitrogen-containing fertilizers on the leaves will help to cope with a lack of nitrogen.

Rusty spots on roses

The most common cause of orange spots on rose leaves is a fungal disease called rust. First, in spring, yellow-orange tubercles appear on the back of the leaves - places where spores accumulate. Over time, infected leaves turn yellow and fall off. In summer and early September, darker (rusty-brown) spots form.

contributes to the development of the disease high humidity, and dry weather, on the contrary, inhibits the spread of fungal spores.

How to treat fungal diseases of roses?

All leaves (including fallen ones) and stems with spots must be removed and burned, and it is desirable to cut the shoots at the level of 2-3 buds from the base. Alternately (with an interval of 7-10 days), treat the bushes with preparations containing mancozeb (Ridomil Gold, Profit) and penconazole (Topaz) or difenoconazole (Skor). Also, these funds can be used in early spring to prevent fungal diseases.

Bushes need to be processed in the evening. Before disinfection, it is worth watering the plant under the root. Even when the spots on the leaves of the rose disappear, you should continue to inspect the plants regularly, as there is a good chance that the symptoms may return.

With severe damage, plants are not subject to treatment. They need to be dug up and burned before the infection spreads to healthy specimens.

To prevent diseases of roses, the soil in the rose garden should be mulched with mowed chopped grass, and before each flowering, foliar top dressing should be carried out with a 0.3% solution of superphosphate extract and a 0.3% solution of potassium nitrate until the leaves are completely wetted. And in the spring, the bushes and the soil under them need to be sprayed with 3% iron sulfate.

A copper-soap solution also helps a lot: 200 g of soap and 20 g of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water. Also, do not forget about regular pruning roses, thinning bushes and timely removal of all old and dry shoots.

Black spotted roses. How to identify the disease and cure the plant. How to prevent infection. How to protect yourself from infection (10+)

Black spotted roses

The material is an explanation and addition to the article:
Plant Diseases - Overview
The plant is sick. How to define a disease? Species, types, classification of plant diseases and pests. Treatment Tips

black spot- the same familiar disease of roses, like a cold for a person. It is very common, few varieties of roses are immune to this disease. The disease becomes apparent around July, but some species can get sick even in the spring.

Black spot is caused by spores of a fungus from the genus Septoria, Marssonina rosae, plants can become infected even with an infected pruner. Spores, when they hit the plant, populate the leaf and are visible as dark brown spots, then the fungus multiplies rapidly, the leaf turns yellow and dies.

Leaves and shoots must be destroyed by burning, because the spores can easily overwinter in the soil and re-infect the plant in the spring. Everyone who has planted roses in their area should take care and be kind to them, because this plant is very delicate.

Try to choose the most resistant varieties of roses, because some varieties are genetically predisposed to this disease, and it will be difficult for you to fight it. The place where your roses are planted also matters - in dense, shady places where moisture will evaporate longer, you should not plant bushes, where the disease will spread faster.

  • An effective method of combating fungal and bacterial diseases, including spotting different nature

pruning

We all know that prevention is better treatment. Let's start with the fact that the first preventive measure is pruning. A properly pruned rose will be stronger and more disease resistant than a rose with emaciated and damaged stems. Non-adapted varieties should also be treated according to the following scheme: the first time - as soon as the leaves have blossomed and after about a week, before flowering, with Oxychoma solution or blue vitriol.

In rainy and cool weather, you should find time to trim the bushes, remove weeds and fill the ground around the rose, as well as treatments with biological products such as Alirin B, Gamair, mancocerb-, penconazole- and triazole-containing preparations to preserve your delicate garden decoration. Leaves are almost completely shed from a black-spotted bush. Most roses cannot survive the attack of this enemy, grow a new "hair", and die.

After the end of winter, with the onset of a warm spring, we often assure ourselves that the rose is just still in “hibernation”, a little more, and it will delight us with its leaves, later with flowers. But, in fact, the bush, most likely, was sick. This fungus kills many more roses in winter than in summer.

Treatment Methods

Treatment for black spot infection - removal of all infected shoots, leaves and other parts of the bush, spraying with copper-containing fungicides, it is advisable to alternate them. There are 3 types of drugs: systemic, contact and contact-systemic. Contact and systemic contact - copper sulfate, hom, active copper, that is, all copper-containing "drugs", they destroy fungal spores, but these drugs do not always help in the fight against black spot.

Systemic and contact-systemic "drugs" - acrobat, mts, ordan, profit gold, fundazol, fast, tend to treat the plant from the inside, penetrating through the tissues. But you can not use the same fungicide, because. mushrooms tend to get used to it. It is for this reason that drugs should be alternated and not overdone, they should be used no more, no less, but as indicated in the instructions.

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Fungal disease of roses powdery mildew in the photo

With a fungal disease of roses, powdery mildew appears on young leaves, shoots and buds; there is a thickening and curvature of them.

As you can see in the photo, powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish bloom, which is a mycelium and sporulation of the fungus:

Powdery mildew on roses
Powdery mildew on roses appears as a whitish bloom (photo)

The causative agent of the disease overwinters in the form of mycelium in the kidneys. The development of the disease contributes to excessive nitrogen fertilizer, lack of calcium in the soil, drying out of the soil, too light sandy or, conversely, cold damp soils.

The disease develops especially strongly with insufficient lighting and high humidity. A sharp change in temperature, drafts, drying out of the earth and other conditions that disrupt the normal life of plants reduce their resistance to disease. Tea and hybrid tea roses with more delicate foliage are especially affected.

Resistant to powdery mildew are varieties of roses that have dense glossy leaves type "Gloria Day".

For the treatment of powdery mildew on roses, when the first signs of the disease appear, it is necessary to spray the bushes with Topaz, Pure Flower, Fundazol or Skor. At temperatures above 22 ° C, it is possible to spray with "Grey colloid" or "Thiovit Jet". If necessary, to combat this rose disease, treatments are repeated as young growth and powdery mildew spots appear on them.

Rust of roses in the photo

With this disease of roses in flowers, the affected parts of the shoots are bent and thickened. In spring, orange dust appears on the stems at the opening buds and at the root neck. These are spring sporulation of the fungus - the causative agent of the stem form of rust. The fungus overwinters in tissues of plants infected with previous years. The disease develops more intensively in years with a warm and humid spring.

Rust fungi not only take away nutrients in a plant, but also greatly disrupt its physiological functions: they increase transpiration, reduce photosynthesis, make breathing difficult and worsen metabolism.

In rose rust disease, small, red-yellow pads of summer spores form on the leaves on the underside in summer, which can give several generations and infect new plants.

In the second half of summer, winter sporulation begins to appear on the underside of the leaves in the form of small rounded black pads.

Look at the photo - if this rose disease has severely affected the plant, the leaves turn completely yellow and fall prematurely:

Affected parts of rose shoots (photo)
In case of rose disease, rust on the leaves on the underside in the summer forms small, red-yellow pads of summer spores (photo)

The spread of rust fungus spores occurs with air flow, water, and planting material.

To protect roses from this disease, one-way nitrogen fertilization should be avoided. In autumn, it is necessary to remove and burn the affected foliage, and in early spring (before bud break), spray the plants and the soil around them with iron sulfate (1-1.5%). The soil under the bushes should be loosened and mulched to reduce infection.

For the treatment of rose rust, it is necessary to carefully and timely cut off the shoots affected by the stem form of rust, from the moment the buds open, re-spray the plants with Bordeaux mixture (1%) or its substitutes (“Oksihom”, “Abiga-Peak”, “Hom”, “ Copper oxychloride”, “Ordan”).

Rose leaf disease black spot in the photo

Rose disease black spot is also called marsonine by the name of the fungus - the causative agent of the disease. In the second half of summer, dark brown, almost black, spots form on the leaves. different sizes. The leaves turn brown and often fall prematurely. Spots may also appear on the green bark of annual shoots.

Plants with prematurely fallen leaves sometimes begin to grow again, as a result of which they are greatly weakened and next year bloom poorly.

Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of the rose spot disease, which forms radiantly growing bands.

As can be seen in the photo, with this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots:

With this disease of roses, radiance is clearly visible at the edge of the spots (photo)
Under the skin of the leaves, the mycelium of the fungus develops - the causative agent of rose spot disease (photo)

This disease of rose leaves is more pronounced with a dense planting, in shaded places, with poor ventilation of the site.

Measures to combat this disease include:

  • proper agricultural technology that increases the resistance of plants;
  • careful collection and fall of the affected leaves and burning them;
  • spraying plants during the growing season with preparations containing copper, which are used in the fight against rust.
  • for the treatment of this disease of roses, it is recommended to use for spraying a special preparation(Skor for protection of roses), which is a systemic fungicide with preventive and curative action.

Treatments should be started at the first signs of the disease and repeated after each rain or heavy dew.

These photos show how to treat rose disease black spot:


Rose bacterial cancer disease in the photo

With bacterial cancer of roses, growths of various sizes are formed on the root collar and roots of plants. Sometimes they are barely noticeable, but often reach several centimeters in diameter. The growths have an uneven tuberculate surface. They consist of soft tissue, first white, then brown and decomposed by bacteria in the soil.

There are also hard lignified growths that grow every year. The aerial part is less often affected - trunks and branches, mainly in climbing and standard remontant roses. Here tuberculate nodules and tumors of various sizes are formed.

Cancer-causing bacteria infect many plants belonging to different families. Infection occurs through wounds on the roots of plants, from the soil, where bacteria can persist for a very long time.

The development of the disease is facilitated by high soil moisture, abundant manure fertilizer, damage to the roots, alkaline soil reaction.

When transplanting plants with an affected root neck, they must be destroyed, and the growths on the lateral roots should be cut off. To treat this disease of roses, after pruning, the roots are immersed for 5 minutes in a 1% solution of copper sulfate, and then washed in water and dipped in a liquid mixture of clay and sand. Avoid excess manure fertilizer, kill insects that damage the roots, do not dig the soil near the bushes.

Look at the photo of rose cancer treatment:


Fungal disease burn branches of roses in the photo

Branch scorch is a fungal disease in which, on the branches, reddish spots appear at first, later darkening in the middle; red-brown edging persists for a long time. Growing, the spots ring the branches. Above the affected area, tissue influxes may form. Sick branches usually dry out in late summer.

The development of "burn" contributes excess moisture under winter cover.

To avoid severe damage to roses, the shelter should be removed earlier in the spring. Sick and frosted branches must be cut and burned in a timely manner.

As shown in the photo, in the treatment of this disease of roses, plants should be sprayed with preparations containing copper, as in the fight against rust:


Proper agricultural practices (timely fertilization, loosening and watering) contribute to reducing the harmfulness of the disease. It is necessary to achieve good maturation of wood until the end of the vegetation of plants.

For the winter, plants with already fallen leaves should be covered, if possible, in dry weather, so that increased humidity is not created under the shelter. Before shelter, unripened shoots with green leaves are removed, and the plants are sprayed with a 3% Bordeaux mixture or a 1.5% solution of ferrous sulfate.

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease of roses in the photo

Cytosporosis is a fungal disease that is ubiquitous. Roses are affected by a number of ornamental shrubs, as well as pome and stone fruit trees, nuts.

Cytosporosis is also called infectious drying. In some years, it leads not only to the drying of individual branches, but also to the death of plants. Bushes weakened as a result of freezing, drought, sunburn, untimely pruning, etc. are especially susceptible to this disease.

First, the causative agent of the disease settles on dying individual sections of the cortex. On the entire area of ​​the affected bark, large, clearly visible orange-red tubercles-pycnidia of the fungus appear, protruding from under the skin.

Look at the photo - with this disease of roses, cracks form on the border of the affected and healthy tissue:


The causative agent of the disease first moves up through the tissues and vessels of plants, and after the branches dry up, down, killing the cells adjacent to the zone of its distribution with its toxins.

The disease of cytosporosis should be considered as a secondary phenomenon associated with a general weakening of plants, therefore, when choosing control measures, it is first of all necessary to protect the bushes from mechanical and other damage.

Also, regularly carry out activities that increase the viability of plants - timely and proper pruning, fertilization, tillage, watering, protection from sunburn, increasing winter hardiness, cutting and burning branches with signs of disease, capturing up to 5 cm of the healthy part of the branch.

Early spring spraying of roses with a 1.5% solution of copper sulfate on the "sleeping" buds and 3% Bordeaux liquid on the green cone to some extent restrains the spread and development of the disease.

Trimming bushes in optimal timing protects roses from the appearance of cytosporosis.

Gray rot on roses (photo)

From the gray rot of roses (botrytis), mainly buds with pedicels, the tops of young stems and leaves suffer - in wet weather they are covered with a gray fluffy coating.

First of all, this disease garden roses attacks weakened plants, and most often - with white and light pink flowers. The buds on roses affected by botrytis do not open, rot and fall off. Small brown spots appear on the petals, the leaves turn yellow and also fall off.

Foci of infection persist in plant debris in the form of mycelium, which forms spores in spring. The spores are then dispersed by insects and the wind. Therefore, an undesirable "neighbor" for roses is, for example, garden strawberry, very susceptible to botrytis.

Gray rot appears on roses with dense plantings, or if the rose garden is watered late in the evening, when the rose leaves do not have time to dry before night.

How to deal with gray mold of roses on personal plot? Control and prevention measures for this rose disease are the same as against other fungal diseases.

Interesting facts about rose diseases

Speaking about diseases of roses, we can highlight several interesting facts:

  • You can determine how resistant roses are to diseases by the leaves: if they are dense and shiny, covered with a wax coating, the variety is resistant. The fact is that wax prevents the penetration of infection into the leaf, which means it prevents infection.
  • Absolutely disease-resistant varieties do not exist. Even those varieties that are marked “disease-resistant” in the catalogs lose this valuable quality after 5-6 years, as the diseases adapt to changing conditions and mutate like the flu. Therefore, old varieties of roses can only be found in amateur gardens, but not in flower farms and on city streets.
  • Gray rot, for example, multiplies especially quickly in wet weather, and given that many gardeners plant roses thickly, the soil under the plants does not dry out quickly enough after rain or watering.
  • Leaves that do not dry out for a long time or cool nights, dew in the morning favor the defeat of black spot. Powdery mildew, and from pests - spider mite On the contrary, they like dry and hot weather. Therefore, roses growing at southern walls or fences are particularly susceptible to these pests.
  • Flower growers can to some extent influence the development of diseases and the appearance of pests, as well as predict their appearance. Strong, well-groomed plants get sick less often and weaker, more intensively resist pest settlement.

Watch the video "Diseases of Roses", which shows all the main plant diseases and methods of dealing with them:

How to treat roses for diseases: effective remedies

All flower growers, without exception, are interested in how to treat roses from diseases. The most effective remedies for rose diseases include the following drugs.

Alirin-B - biological preparation based on beneficial microorganisms isolated from natural sources. Effective against powdery mildew flower-decorative and other plants.

"Gliocladin"- analogue known drug"Trichodermin". Effective against a wide range of fungal diseases such as Fusarium, white and gray rot, late blight, root and stem rot, black leg and keel of cabbage.

"Gamair"- a drug designed to protect against a wide range bacterial diseases: bacterial leaf spot, bacterial blight, bacterial canker.

"Topaz"- a systemic fungicide for the protection of ornamental, pome, stone fruit, berry, vegetable crops and vine from powdery mildew. This preparation for the treatment of roses against diseases can be used as a protective, curative and exterminating agent also against rust. The drug is available as an emulsion concentrate.

As a fighter for high degree Powdery mildew lesions "Topaz" are used in elevated concentrations(up to 10 ml), carrying out 2 sprayings with an interval of 7 days.

The drug provides reliable protection against powdery mildew even against a high infectious background. Topaz is non-phytotoxic and does not leave stains on treated leaves and fruits. As a prophylactic, it reduces the number of treatments, as it works for 40 days. The drug responds modern requirements human safety and environment. It is quickly absorbed by plants, which reduces the risk of washing off the drug by rain.

In order to avoid the emergence of resistance to powdery mildew pathogens, it is recommended to alternate Topaz with contact copper-containing preparations and colloidal gray and not use more than 4 times per season on the same crop.

"Topaz" compatible with most pest and disease control products used in gardens. Speed ​​of influence - in 2-3 hours after spraying.

And how else to treat roses from diseases and to prevent infections in the garden?

"Pure Flower"- a new drug for the protection of flower and ornamental crops from diseases (fungicide).

Mode of application: necessary rate the drug in a special container is dissolved in a small amount of water. Then, with constant stirring, bring the volume of the working solution to 5 or 10 liters. The working fluid is prepared immediately before use and used completely on the same day. The term for the safe exit of people for manual work is after 7 days. Speed ​​of influence of a preparation: in 2 hours after processing.

The period of protective action: with preventive treatments - 7-15 days, in conditions of intensive development of diseases - 7 days.

Therapeutic effect of the drug: within 4 days from the moment of infection. Amateur gardeners are not recommended to mix this preparation with other means of protection when spraying plants.

"Pure Flower" is an analogue of the drug "Raek".

"Fundazol"- systemic preparation and protectant planting material to protect against a range of diseases.

When using the drug, fill the container for dressing the planting material with water by 1/3, then pour the required amount of the drug, mix thoroughly and add the remaining amount of water.

Spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 am) or in the evening (6-10 pm), evenly wetting the leaves. The working solution cannot be stored!

"Skor to Protect Roses" from black spot, ornamental and fruit crops from a complex of diseases. It is a systemic fungicide of preventive and curative action. The contents of the ampoule must be diluted in water.

Spray with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, evenly wetting the plants.

Consumption of working fluid: on a rose - up to 1 liter per plant; on the flower plants and ornamental shrubs- up to 10 liters per 100 m2.

Do not store working solution! Release dates for handmade: 3 days. Compatibility with other pesticides is impractical. The period of protective action is 7-14 days. Exposure time: two hours after treatment. Not phytotoxic. Cultures are tolerant to the drug. There is no resistance. Not dangerous for bees (grade 3). Toxic to fish, do not allow to enter the aquatic environment.

"Copper oxychloride"(wettable powder) - one of the copper-containing drugs to combat diseases of vegetable and fruit crops.

When using the contents of the package (40 g) dilute in 10 liters of water. It is necessary to spray the plants with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, preferably in the morning (before 10 o'clock) or in the evening (18-22 o'clock), evenly wetting the leaves. In the recommended doses, the drug is not phytotoxic. The period of protective action is 7-10 days.

The drug is dangerous for bees and fish, do not treat during flowering. Do not allow to enter watercourses.

These photos show effective means for the treatment of diseases of roses:







How to spray roses for diseases: the best drugs

Not sure how to spray roses for diseases to protect flowers? Then use the following drugs, which are considered among the best.

"Abiga Peak" is a copper-containing fungicide of contact action, designed to combat a complex of fungal and bacterial diseases on vegetable, fruit, ornamental and flower crops, vine and medicinal plants.

Apply the drug during the growing season by spraying plants.

The 50 g package is designed to prepare 10 liters of working solution for the treatment of 100 m2.

The contents of the vial are preliminarily dissolved in 1 l of water and, with thorough mixing, brought to 10 l with water - a working solution for spraying is obtained.

Spraying is carried out prophylactically or when the first signs of the disease appear. Plants are processed, evenly covering shoots, leaves and fruits with a working solution.

Attention! All solutions should be prepared in plastic, glass or enamelware.

This preparation against diseases of roses provides reliable protection of plants from diseases even under adverse weather conditions. The composition of the drug includes an adhesive that allows the active substance "Abiga-Peak" to be firmly held on the treated plant surface.

Very important!"Abiga-Peak" is compatible with almost all known modern insecticides and fungicides. Easy to use, non-toxic. The drug does not produce dust when preparing a working solution. Cooked but due weather conditions unused solution can be stored for a long time.

"Abiga Peak" beneficial effect on the quality of the products grown. With its application, a good maturation of young shoots is observed.

The best means to combat rose diseases are shown in the photo:


"Thiovit Jet"- a means to combat diseases of flower and fruit crops.

How to use: dissolve the norm of the drug in a small amount of water, then, gradually stirring, add water up to 10 liters. Processing should be carried out with a freshly prepared solution in dry, calm weather, ensuring uniform wetting of the leaves.

"Thiovit" has good adhesion, has a contact effect and an active gas phase; practically non-toxic to birds, bees, fish.

The advantages of the drug are that it is both a fungicide, an acaricide, and a trace element; provides reliable plant protection for 7-10 days; can be used for preventive spraying, has good compatibility with other pesticides.

"Sulfur colloidal" mainly used to control powdery mildew and various types herbivorous mites on flower crops. It shows efficiency only at air temperatures above +20 ... + 22 ° С, since sulfur vapors work.

Mode of application. When preparing the working fluid, the preparation is first stirred in a small amount warm water to a creamy state, and then water is added, mixing the composition well (it is better to soak the drug the day before, 2-5 hours before processing).

The term of the last treatment before harvesting is 3 days.

For humans and warm-blooded animals, the drug is not dangerous. "Sulfur colloidal", as a rule, does not burn the leaves.

However, many varieties of gooseberries shed their leaves after processing. Therefore, do not use sulfur to control American gooseberry powdery mildew and do not spray roses near this shrub.

Remember! Before treating rose diseases, you must carefully read the instructions for using a particular drug.

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