Top dressing of tomatoes in open ground. Top dressing of tomatoes (personal experience)

Like all berry plants (and tomatoes belong to the nightshade family), tomatoes need to be fed during the period of growth and fruiting. To increase yields, you need to know what fertilizers for tomatoes are best used, how to feed tomatoes in different periods of growth, how cultivation in open ground differs from greenhouse cultivation.

It is necessary to start caring for plants from the moment the seeds are planted:

• monitor soil moisture;
• prevent diseases;
• apply fertilizer in the right amount at the right time.

During the whole time, you need to watch the plants in order to notice the deficiency of nutrients in time.

Fertilizers for young seedlings

If you start germinating seeds at home or in a greenhouse, the first step is to soak them for 10 minutes in a 5% salt solution. That's 1.5 tablespoons of salt per liter of water. Thus, the seeds are disinfected. Then washed and transferred to clean water to swell for 15 hours (approximately).

The procedure is required to be carried out shortly before sowing into the soil

The next step is soil preparation. If it is purchased in a store, then processing is not required. If used garden soil, then the best way it will be good to pour it with a solution of potassium permanganate. After that, the earth should stand for a couple of weeks. It's too early to plant seeds.

A small amount of complex fertilizer for tomatoes in liquid form or an organic solution diluted to a minimum is added to the garden soil. When the seedlings germinate, you can begin to observe what color the foliage is, how the shoots develop.

After 2 - 3 weeks, you can feed the tomatoes again natural fertilizer. For example - an infusion of herbs.

Seedlings can be planted in the ground after 1.5 months. The signal will be the first ovary of flowers. Some gardeners remove it to datelet the plant get stronger. Cloudy weather will be the most favorable for transplantation.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field

If autumn fertilization activities garden plot were not carried out, then 2 weeks before the proposed relocation of the seedlings, it is necessary to dig up the soil with compost or apply part of the mineral fertilizers so that they have time to dissolve. These are phosphorus and nitrogen.

Fresh manure must be prepared. Fill the bucket a third with manure and top up with water. Then take one part of the infusion and dilute in 10 liters of water. For 4 - 5 days, pour the liquid into the soil so that the soil bacteria begin to digest it.

Video: How to properly feed tomatoes

If fertilizer for a tomato was applied in the fall, then in the spring you can limit yourself to watering with an organic nutrient mixture or a small amount of urea. This is the best way to feed tomatoes for a good harvest in the future.

Needs of tomatoes for mineral fertilizers

In addition to nitrogen fertilizer for tomatoes, potassium will need to be applied. But this is later - about a week after landing. Top dressing of tomatoes potash fertilizer is very important, since this element affects the number of fruits and their ripening. The best way to feed tomatoes is potassium magnesia or ash. In the first case, the fertilizer of tomatoes occurs with potassium sulfate. In the second - a natural supplement, which, in addition to potassium, contains trace elements - sulfur and magnesium.

Tomatoes do not like chlorine, so potassium chloride cannot be used as a mineral fertilizer.

Phosphorus fertilizers are best applied in the fall so that they have time to dissolve and go into a form accessible to plants. In the spring, it is necessary to fertilize the soil with phosphorus 2 to 3 weeks before planting seedlings in the ground. The dry mixture is scattered and dug up with the ground.

Phosphorus affects root growth and nitrogen uptake, so you need to know that these two elements must be in the soil at the same time.

The best phosphate fertilizer for tomatoes is superphosphate. It can be combined with organic. This is more beneficial than simply fertilizing tomatoes with manure, which has a lot of nitrogen and potassium, but no phosphorus.

The need for nitrogen in tomatoes is greatest at the stage of growth of shoots and foliage. How to properly feed tomatoes and how to prepare top dressing can be found on the fertilizer bag.

If a certain amount of a substance is given in the instructions, and the gardener uses organic matter for root dressing in parallel, then the amount of the mineral mixture should be reduced so as not to damage the root system of plants

During fruit set and ripening nitrogen supplements should be stopped. It's potassium's turn. Feeding tomatoes with potassium accelerates the ripening of fruits and affects the duration of fruiting.

Video: We fertilize tomatoes to increase yields

Professional gardeners recommend choosing one kind of fertilizer than feeding tomatoes throughout the entire period of growth and fruiting. And then - according to the situation. It can be diluted or mixed, foliar dressings can be used. It is useless to look for the best fertilizer, since the algorithm of action is the same. Small differences exist in the concentration of additional substances. It is better to focus on the composition of the soil in the garden.

Signs of a Nutrient Deficiency

Lack of nutrition can be determined by the appearance of shoots, leaves, fruits. Looking at what stage it arose.

With a lack of nitrogen in the soil:

• shoots are weak;
• the leaves are small and light;
• ovaries may fall;
• fruits are small.

In order to notice the lack of nitrogen in tomatoes in time, it is necessary to observe plants that consume nitrogen in large quantities - peas, beans, potatoes, cabbage. If their leaves began to turn yellow from below, then soon the turn will reach the tomatoes.

With a lack of water in the soil, plant nutrition is disturbed. Cold cloudy weather has a bad effect on the absorption of nitrogen. The lack of phosphorus slows down the growth of plants when the root system is poorly developed.

It looks like a lack of nutrients in a tomato

Phosphorus deficiency:

• foliage turns red or purple;
• delayed fruit ripening;
• elongate and blacken the roots.

On tomatoes, the lack of phosphorus is immediately reflected, so it is urgent to decide how to feed the tomatoes so that the phosphorus deficiency does not affect the yield. Basically, these are foliar top dressings in parallel with watering. This method quickly helps to save the situation.

In the open ground clay soils deficiency is more common. Acidic soils also prevent plants from absorbing phosphorus, so chalk or dolomite flour should be added to feed tomatoes.

Potassium deficiency:

• leaves turn yellow at the edges;
• spots on the leaves;
• roots turn yellow.

It appears on heavy soils, marshy and peaty. Fertilize tomatoes by spraying - the most fast way. At the same time, it is necessary to organize watering with a potassium solution.

Micronutrient deficiency

Lack of at least one important element can negate the efforts of gardeners. With a deficiency of magnesium, boron, calcium, copper, sulfur or iron, certain signs appear on the leaves of plants:

• magnesium - the leaves darken and die;
• sulfur - the foliage turns pale and turns yellow;
• boron - fruits of irregular shape appear;
• calcium - the fruits die off starting from the calyx;
• copper - the leaves are folded on the sides;
• iron - the leaves dry at the edges and die;
• zinc - spotted leaves.

In addition, with a lack of trace elements, plants are susceptible to disease. Weak shoots cannot resist the action of pests and die. There are situations when, with a complex deficiency, it is impossible to determine what to choose for feeding tomatoes. There is only one way out: start with feeding on the sheet. Preferably complex mixtures.

Feeding with your own hands

On the suburban area or in your own household there is always something to feed the tomatoes so that there are many fruits. It can be manure from a cow, chicken droppings, waste products of other animals or birds - sheep, ducks, horses, rabbits.

It should be understood once that fresh organics in large quantities can burn the roots of plants. Therefore, it is necessary to pre-infuse and then dilute the slurry. This process takes a week.

The second option is to apply fertilizer for tomatoes in the fall. During the winter, organic matter is consumed by soil bacteria and becomes available to plants.

The third option is to lay a compost pit or pile. If you do this at the beginning of summer, then next year there will be something to feed the tomatoes in the spring for the harvest. For one square meter fertilizer for tomatoes consumed up to 8 kg.

Yeast is gaining popularity as a top dressing for tomatoes in the open field. To do this, they are bred in warm water and watered the soil, added to green manure. The goal is to provoke the growth of beneficial bacteria in the soil in order to improve its quality. To do this, a pack of yeast 200 g must be crushed into water, wait until the liquid begins to foam. Then one liter under each bush (the soil must be moist before watering with yeast).

With your own hands, it is not difficult to prepare green fertilizer for top dressing tomatoes. In summer, weeds are mowed or weeded. She can be put to work. Grass is poured into a large container by a third and filled with water. It takes 2 weeks for the fertilizer to set before fertilizing the tomatoes. Top dressing of tomatoes is carried out by watering or spraying.

If it is possible to carry out several dressings of tomatoes with whey or milk, this must be used. Sugar is often added to such mixtures - about 1 cup per 3 liters of milk. Tomatoes are very fond of such an additive and the fruits quickly gain weight.

Fertilization scheme

The scheme of feeding tomatoes depends on the type of soil on the site, the amount of precipitation, the presence or absence of organic matter for application to open ground. It just so happened that each gardener has his own feeding regimen, as well as the types of fertilizers. Someone uses exclusively mineral mixtures, someone mixes organic matter with complex fertilizers, someone prefers to grow bio-products.

You should not go to extremes - pour everything that is available under vegetables or use one type of additive for all occasions. There is a risk of losing crops and poisoning the soil. It's good if, after an excess of fertilizer, no one suffers from people.

Before deciding to feed tomatoes, you must carefully read the fertilizer manufacturer's instructions - how much substance is consumed per square meter. This is to protect people's health. When and how much fertilizer should be applied so that there is no excess. This is for plant protection.

No wonder one prominent scientist said: you can not hide the lack of knowledge with an excess of fertilizers. Or something like that. The result, and most importantly, the harvest will be deplorable.

For greenhouse tomatoes

Greenhouse tomatoes fertilize 4 times per season. The first time they are introduced: a solution of mullein and nitrophoska (as an option). For 10 bushes, 10 liters of water, half a liter of mullein and 1 tablespoon of nitrophoska are required.

After about 10 - 12 days, the second top dressing of tomatoes is done. 1 teaspoon of potassium sulfate (or other fertilizer without chlorine) and a tablespoon of prefabricated complex fertilizer are taken per bucket of water.

A feature of growing tomatoes in a greenhouse is the constant care and disinfection of the soil. When tomatoes grow for several years in one place, they are affected by diseases. Primarily - late blight. Various methods are used for prevention:

• sulfur checkers for processing the internal space of the greenhouse;
• copper sulfate 3% for soil;
• top dressing of tomatoes with the microbiological composition Fitosporin.

After watering with copper sulphate, the soil must be dug up and then watered again with a solution. The main part of fungal spores is found in the soil. To prevent the disease, it is necessary to annually remove old bushes from the greenhouse and burn them. Monitor weed growth. The procedure for preparing the premises for planting should begin in the fall. Before feeding the tomatoes, in September they carry out a complete disinfection of the walls of the greenhouse and the soil.

Step-by-step feeding of tomatoes is a traditional agricultural technique for caring for a plant, taking into account the phases of development. Indeed, many believe that tomatoes, like any other crop, in the process of their growth, development and maturation, need to be fed. Properly selected doses of mineral water, of course, satisfy all the needs of the culture in obtaining nutrients, but you need to take care not so much about the crop, but about the soil. Let's take a closer look at when and how to feed for a healthy crop and what soil fertility depends on.

Step-by-step top dressing of tomatoes depending on growing conditions

Of course, gardeners most often prefer such substances, after taking which the result is immediately visible. This is, for example, urea. After introducing it into the soil, the tomato bushes become lush, thick, beautiful, but the disease resistance and fruiting of the plant specifically suffer. Therefore, overfeeding tomatoes with nitrogen is not recommended, it is necessary more attention give other elements that the tomato lacks.

Top dressing of a tomato must be carried out competently, giving it the whole complex of microelements, and then you will get a plentiful and healthy harvest. You should also be aware that the composition and amount of top dressing also depends on where the crop grows - in a greenhouse or open ground.

With the traditional approach with the use of mineral fertilizers, the return on top dressing is significantly increased if they are used in phases of development and in a balanced way. A perfect illustration of this is the crops from the narrow beds of Mittlider. But you can do without them at all, gradually introducing the principles of organic farming. And since not everyone has switched to eco-farming, step-by-step instruction for feeding tomatoes will be useful to you.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse

A greenhouse is a completely different world than open ground. First, here you should take care of the soil in which the tomatoes will be planted. Light and fertile soil should consist of:

• sod land (1 part);
• humus (2 parts);
• sand (0.5 parts).

Add superphosphate and potassium sulfate (1 tbsp per 1 sq.m) in the fall, and urea (1 tbsp per 1 sq.m) in the spring.

Secondly, seedlings prepared for planting in a greenhouse must first (about a day before the process) be carefully fed with Epin-extra, which increases its resistance to pests and diseases, and improves the survival rate.

After the tomato seedlings have taken root in the greenhouse, foliar top dressing should begin. To do this, we recommend using Plantafol (approximately 1 tbsp per 10 liters of water). It is used in different proportions in different phases of development, in total it is necessary to carry out 4 top dressings:

1. 5-7 days after landing in a new place. During this period, phosphorus is important for the culture, so Plantafol is taken with its predominance in the composition (10:54:10).
2. Carry out similarly to the first.
3. For the third top dressing, Plantafol is used, which contains phosphorus, potassium and nitrogen in equal proportions. This combination will stimulate the flowering of the culture.
4. It is carried out when the fruit ovary begins in the tomato. In this case, Plantafol should have an increased content of potassium (5:15:45).

AT greenhouse conditions it is also recommended to carry out top dressing that contributes to the resistance of the tomato to diseases. The following solution is used: in a bucket of water, dilute 1 tbsp of calcium nitrate and 1 tbsp of Plantafol. Spraying is carried out twice a month.

The use of Italian Plantafol is beneficial for private traders, as it eliminates the rather laborious calculations of fertilizer doses required for a particular development phase. Of course there is, successful experience the use of mineral waters in our country - for those who are interested, be sure to find and study the adaptation of the Mittlider agricultural technology to our preparations, the author is Ugarova T. Yu. “Family vegetable growing on narrow ridges". There are convenient tables of step-by-step mineral supplements and there is no point in rewriting them.

During the growing season, top dressing of tomatoes must be carried out as follows, observing the sequence of top dressing:

1. The period of color formation. You can choose store complex fertilizers, in this case, you should look at the growth phase for which one or another type of fertilizer is applicable. Or you can use folk methods: bird droppings / mullein (0.5 l) + superphosphate extract. Irrigation dosage - 1 liter in each well. To prepare the extract, take a maximum of 1.5 tablespoons of crushed fertilizer, pour 10 liters of it hot water and last for days.
2. The second time it is desirable to feed the plants when the second tomato brush blooms. Here, simply complex fertilizer is used, the dosage is observed according to the instructions.
3. It is carried out during the period when the third brush begins to bloom in the tomato. Complex fertilizers are also suitable - 1 tablespoon per 10 liters. Each plant needs to consume about 2 liters of top dressing.

But in the process of feeding, there is an important rule: in no case should you overfeed tomatoes - an excess of some elements also harms the plant, as well as their lack.

The problem that occurs most often is that a powerful vegetative mass prevents the fruits from growing and developing. If all of a sudden this happened, and the tomato bushes resemble thickets, emergency measures should be taken to help the fetus directly. For this, it is recommended to treat the culture with an extract of superphosphate - 1 liter for each plant. The extract concentrate for this purpose is increased - they take 3 tablespoons of fertilizer, instead of one.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field

The most essential nutrients for culture open soils- this is nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium (NPK), at different periods of development, it needs certain microelements to one degree or another.

With the development of tomato fruits, phosphorus is needed, so it is especially important to add it to the soil even when seedlings are still growing. To do this, when planting seeds in a box, they use soil with the addition of superphosphate - 1 tsp per kilogram of land is enough. Nitrogen and potassium can also be added here, but in very small quantities - 1/7 tsp is enough for 1 kg of soil.

Then the tomatoes must be fed in the process of transplanting from the box into open ground. During this difficult period, the tomato needs potassium, which promotes the ovary and ripening of the fetus. Before digging a place for planting a tomato, organic matter is added to the soil - about 5 kg, 1 tablespoon of superphosphate, 2 tablespoons of potassium sulfate - all this per square meter of area.

Tomatoes also perceive fertilizers such as humus and compost well - they are best applied directly to each well before planting a bush. But manure for open ground can only be added when digging the earth after harvesting, i.e. in the fall, since the introduction of manure into the soil in the spring will contribute to too intensive growth of foliage, to the detriment of the fruits.

In the period from planting to fruit formation, three main root (i.e. soil) top dressings are produced:

1. Carried out at the very beginning of flowering plants. As a top dressing, watering is carried out with the following solution: for 10 liters of water, you will need 0.5 liters of any infusion from organic fertilizer (chicken manure, green grass, mullein). Also during this period, an extract of superphosphate is introduced into the soil.
2. It is carried out when the flowering of a tomato appears on 2 brushes. They are fed with organic matter (exactly the same as in the first case), only 1 tbsp of complex mineral fertilizer is added to the infusion.
3. When the third brush begins to bloom at the tomato, they are fed simply with complex fertilizer - 1 tbsp is diluted in 10 liters of water.

As for foliar top dressing (i.e. spraying tomatoes), they must also be carried out, according to the following principle:

• before the formation of the fetus. During this period, tomatoes are sprinkled with infusion of urea (1 tablespoon of urea + 1 g of potassium permanganate is diluted in a bucket of water);
• After the formation of the fetus. It is recommended to spray with a solution prepared using potassium sulfate, potassium nitrate, potassium magnesia (1 tablespoon of any of them per 10 liters).

For foliar top dressing, the rule applies: the procedure should be carried out in the early morning, or in the evening, when the sun is still or no longer scorching. So top dressing will last longer on the leaves, nourishing them. Root and foliar dressings are best alternated.

Foliar top dressing of tomatoes with iodine

AT recent times as a top dressing for a tomato, such a simple preparation as iodine is used. It is he, according to gardeners, that contains components that stimulate the faster formation of ovaries on the bushes and the development of the fetus. In addition, iodine also affects the number of ovaries, which become more with such top dressing.

There are two options for solutions using iodine in the composition:

• Plain iodine solution. Preparation is not difficult: 3 ml of iodine is diluted in a bucket of water. Dosage must be observed! For accuracy, you can use a syringe. Watering with iodine solution is carried out at 0.5 liters for each bush.
• Solution with serum and iodine. Whey is mainly used as a preventive measure against late blight, which affects tomatoes. For 9 parts of water, take 1 part of whey, mix well. After that, iodine is added - at the rate of 20 drops per 10 liters. Tomatoes are sprayed with this solution, not watered. The procedure is carried out 2-3 times a month, preferably in the evening, in calm, clear weather.

2-3 days after iodine treatments, it is important to shed the garden bed with some "live" preparations (EO, compost tea, weed infusion) in order to revive the microflora in the garden. But more on that later, but now let's move on to fertilizers for tomatoes without chemicals.

Folk remedies - the best organic fertilizers for tomatoes

Of course, it is best, if possible, to use as a top dressing for tomatoes. natural remedies , whose action is not inferior in efficiency to store-bought fertilizers, and in terms of "usefulness" they are clearly superior. True, the preparation of nutrient solutions according to folk methods takes more time and effort. But they are definitely worth it.

There are several really effective remedies that will give tomatoes everything they need to get healthy and bountiful harvest:

• Mullein. The basis of its preparation is fresh cow dung, which is currently not so easy to get. Manure is diluted with water (1 to 3) and left for a week, after which the mullein is ready. For direct watering of plants, mullein is bred: 1 liter of fertilizer per bucket of water. Irrigation dosage - 1 liter per hole. It is not worth overdoing it with mullein - top dressing is carried out no more than 2 times during the entire growth period.
• Infusion based on chicken manure. Too effective remedy, the preparation of fertilizer is similar to the first option. Before watering, the fertilizer is also diluted, only in a different proportion: a bucket of water requires ½ liter of infusion. In order for the tomatoes to better accept top dressing, they should be poured a little with plain water before the procedure.
• Wood ash. In its composition, it is very similar to a complex fertilizer, which combines calcium, sodium, magnesium, potassium, the lack of which the culture most often experiences. Dry ash is brought into the holes when planting tomatoes, and the beds are also sprinkled with it. But most effective top dressing will be a solution of ash. For root and foliar dressings, it is prepared in different ways:
  • For spraying, the ashes are boiled in water for half an hour. Dosage based on 100 g per liter. After the solution has cooled, it is still diluted with water - 2 liters of plain water should be used per 1 liter of concentrate. In order for the infusion to linger longer on the leaves, a little laundry soap or other adhesive is added there.
  • For irrigation, the ash is diluted in water at the required concentration. Do not insist, watering is carried out immediately.
• Herbal infusions. This is perhaps the most affordable top dressing for an ordinary summer resident, since there is no need to look for and buy raw materials - it grows right on the site. The richer the composition of weeds for infusion, the better. All of them contain different trace elements: nettle - iron, potassium; dandelion - calcium; alfalfa - phosphorus, etc. The principle of infusion is based on the fermentation of grass in water, while 2 parts of weeds are taken for 1 part of water. The container where the preparations are made must be tightly closed. Thus, 10 days must pass, after which the fertilizer for tomatoes is ready. Immediately before watering, the concentrate must be diluted with water as 1/10. Each bush will be quite enough 1.5 liters. You should not get carried away with herbal infusions - we recommend feeding them tomatoes no more than 2 times a month.
• Yeast. Despite the fact that they do not contain any nutrients, they can serve as a plant growth stimulator - they activate soil biota. In this case, both fresh yeast (diluted in water and immediately watered) and dry yeast (dissolved in water and insisted for several hours before watering) can be used.

Of course, you can prepare a complex solution (as many summer residents do), for example, based on herbal, where to add manure, ash, superphosphate and something else “useful” for tomato. Such top dressing will be replete with all trace elements and nutrients, but there is a risk of overdoing it and “overfeeding” the tomatoes, which means accumulating nitrates in them. So let's look at the problem of plant nutrition from a different angle.

Why You Shouldn't Feed Tomatoes

Properly grown seedlings and a bed rich in organic matter generally almost do not need top dressing. We did not come to this immediately, of course. At first, they also stuffed the earth with chemistry. Gradually came the understanding that mineral supplements and errors in agricultural technology make dependent plants.

Think for yourself, because they simply have nowhere to go from the garden and have to absorb excess minerals. Here salts accumulate in tissues and fruits. There are more pests on such plants - soft tissues bite easier. Yes, and the fruits are stored worse. Do we need such food?

Now, if we see leaf chlorosis, then we don’t grab onto bags of fertilizers, but immediately pull out the plant and burn it, because. in 99% of cases, it is affected by a viral infection, and it cannot be cured. The rest of the time, we replenish the beds with organic matter, water with weed infusions and occasionally with EMs. That is, we do not feed tomatoes, but soil workers - beneficial microbes and earthworms. We cherish them and cherish them. It is the active microflora that feeds our vegetables, not chemistry.

Ancient wisdom says: “A fool grows plants, a smart one grows soil”

Plants feed not at the expense of humus and minerals accumulated in the soil, but with the active participation of biota. These invisible cohabitants of plants, digesting food for themselves with the help of enzymes, supply nutrients in plant-available form. By replenishing the beds with organic matter and preserving the soil structure, we feed our microbe helpers (bacteria, fungi, etc.) and soil animals (earthworms, etc.). That, in fact, is why it is not necessary to feed tomatoes, but to grow fertile soil and increase plant immunity.

Step-by-step feeding of tomatoes still resonates with adherents of traditional agricultural technology. Perhaps such care will be popular for a long time, but one should not forget about the dosages and quantities of fertilizers - overfed plants will not give a bountiful harvest. And remember that, first of all, it is not the plants that need to be fed, but the earth, so that a favorable microflora develops in it, which will provide the tomatoes with all the necessary antibiotics and nutrition.

How to feed tomato seedlings you need to decide looking at the seedlings themselves. If it is green and stocky, then it has enough of everything and you can wait with top dressing until the seedlings are planted in the ground.

If you see that the leaves turn yellow and fall off or the seedlings look frail (although there is enough light), it does not grow well, then it's time to feed. Most likely the soil for seedlings was poor in nutrients.

But know that overfeeding is also detrimental to tomatoes, like underfeeding, you do not need to feed the tomatoes “just in case”.

Feeding tomato seedlings

At obvious signs"Starvation" of tomato seedlings, we give her Agricola for seedlings (according to the instructions), this is a complex fertilizer, except for it, you can not add anything. Many gardeners for the entire time of growing seedlings on the windowsill only occasionally water it with a weak solution of potassium permanganate and that’s all, they don’t add anything else and bring the seedlings to planting in the ground in looking good. The type of seedlings largely depends on whether it has enough light and how good the soil was taken for growing.

Often gardeners ask how to feed tomato seedlings after picking? We know that often after picking for better root formation, many amateurs water seedlings with Kornevin. But this is not a top dressing, but a biostimulating drug for plants, which causes increased root growth. There is no need to apply any fertilizer immediately after picking.

Feeding tomato seedlings with yeast

Let us clarify that it is better to feed tomatoes with yeast after planting them in a permanent place in a greenhouse or open ground.

Such top dressing is carried out only 2 times per season, otherwise there will be solid greenery, to the detriment of fruit formation. Yeast is fed to tomatoes in June, when it is necessary for the plant to gain strength and grow thick stems and good roots.

To prepare a working solution, you need to take 1 kg of baker's yeast in a briquette, dilute it in 5 liters of warm water and let it brew for a day. To feed the tomatoes, 0.5 liters of this solution is added to a bucket of water and watered under the bushes. One plant consumes half a liter of solution. It's just a yeast feed. Many gardeners add infusions of herbs and chicken manure to this top dressing to enrich its composition. Any top dressing is applied to moist soil, so the tomatoes must first be watered.

The result of such top dressing will be visible within a week. The saying "grows by leaps and bounds" is confirmed in practice.

Another recipe for yeast nutrition: put 100 g of live yeast and half a glass of sugar in a 3-liter jar. Pour warm water almost to the top and put in a warm place for fermentation. Before the end of fermentation, the jar sometimes needs to be shaken. Use the resulting "mash" to feed tomatoes at the rate of 1 cup per 10 liters of water. Feed with such fertilizer once at the rate of 1 liter under a bush.

How to feed tomatoes after planting in the ground

After planting tomatoes in a permanent place in open ground or a greenhouse for 2 weeks, refrain from any top dressing, let the plants adapt to new conditions. Further, what top dressing to use to get the maximum yield is up to you. We will give only a few tips.

Nitrogen fertilizers strongly stimulate the growth of green mass, to the detriment of fruit formation. Therefore, being zealous with them at the very first feeding is not the most good decision. It is better to give preference to phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Most the best option for tomatoes - ash or potassium sulfate. Potassium chloride is better not to take - chlorine has a depressing effect on tomatoes.

Of the microfertilizers, the most necessary for tomatoes are boron and magnesium. Boron is needed during flowering so that the flowers and ovaries do not fall off. To do this, it is enough to spray the leaves and flowers 1-2 times with a solution of boric acid at a concentration of 1 g per 1 liter of water and the problem will be solved (unless, of course, the temperature in the greenhouse is 40 degrees every day). Boron also contributes to an increase in sugar in fruits.

Oh, and organic fertilizers. Infusion of mullein, bird droppings, weeds (preferably nettles) are only beneficial, but also in moderation and only before fruit set, after that organics do not need to be applied in any form, active growth of the vegetative mass at this time is no longer needed.

After fruit set, we use the following top dressing for our tomatoes:

Pour 2 liters of ash with 5 liters of boiling water, stir well, then after cooling, bring the volume to 10 liters and add 10 g of boric acid powder + 10 ml of iodine (bottle) to it. Infuse this solution for a day. Next, the resulting infusion is diluted 10 times. Feed 1 liter under a bush.

It is best to use all the same for feeding tomatoes at all stages of growth. folk remedies and not chemistry. Feed your plants with herbal infusions, ashes, mulch with compost and humus. Maybe a little less fruit will grow, but they will be much tastier and sweeter than the “chemical” ones. Although the results of the labors of gardeners using natural dressings are sometimes very impressive, their yields are simply magnificent!

Let's share in the comments the recipes of our dressings, after which good harvests are obtained. If you have photos, then attach them to the comments. Have a good harvest!

To give tomatoes good harvest gardeners must properly feed them with fertilizer throughout the growing season. “Feed” tomatoes with fertilizers as necessary, both organic and mineral, observing the optimal balance of top dressing in the open field after planting tomato seedlings. To ensure full growth of the fruits, the root system of tomatoes needs mandatory feeding.

As background information recall that the fruits of tomatoes should ideally contain about 94% water, 0.6% fiber; 1% protein, 4% carbohydrates, vitamins A, C, PP and others, as well as a number of organic acids. In Russia, this type of nightshade began to be eaten since the 18th century, but widely and everywhere, growing tomatoes even in the northern regions in greenhouse conditions. Thanks to high content in ripe tomatoes of vitamin C, as in citrus fruits; phosphorus, iron and especially potassium, they will be correctly included in the diet of patients with metabolic syndrome, with and even with gastrointestinal diseases and digestive disorders.

To give tomatoes big harvest good fruit containing the whole complex of vitamins, minerals and fiber, you need to know and observe the agricultural technology for the use of various mineral fertilizers and organic dressings. Tomatoes, in turn, are quite demanding on the nutritional characteristics of the growing soil, do not forget about this when planting seedlings in open ground in spring.

Fertilizing the soil in the fall for the future planting of tomatoes

Fight for the harvest next year starts in the fall of the previous one, so ideal option will determine in advance the area for tomatoes in the summer cottage, taking into account the predecessors (potatoes, eggplant, or), after which it is irrational to plant tomatoes, primarily due to the accumulation of related diseases and pests. It would be nice to know in advance the data on the fertility of the soil in which you are going to plant seedlings in the spring. Since this is not always feasible, experienced gardeners believe that you can’t spoil porridge with oil, especially in the pre-winter period, and fertilize by eye with organic fertilizers (mullein, bird droppings, compost), because by spring everything will decompose in the ground and become excellent top dressing for tomatoes.

In autumn, to improve the structure of the soil, it is better to introduce potash and phosphate fertilizers, combining this with deep digging of the site. In heavy clay and loamy soils, peat and rotted sawdust should be added.

Soils with hyperacidity you need to “deoxidize”, limestone chips, fluff are suitable for this purpose ( slaked lime) and dolomite flour, as well as lighter deoxidizers: chalk and wood ash.

If in the fall, for some reason, the plot for tomatoes was not fertilized, then digging it up in the spring before planting them, you can only add ripe humus, but not fresh manure. Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field in spring can take place in three stages:

1. The first feeding of tomatoes occurs at the end of the second week after they are transplanted into open ground.
2. The second - foliar top dressing of tomatoes, stimulating the formation of a fruit ovary, is carried out during flowering.
3. The third top dressing is at the stage of formation of fruit ovaries.

The total amount of top dressing dictates the state of soil fertility. Poor sandy soils They ask for feeding every 2 weeks. There is no need to fertilize fertile black soil at all.

It is enough to carefully observe the process of vegetation of tomato bushes, appearance which will indicate an overabundance or lack of nutrients. For example:

• excess nitrogen - too lush greenery, and a lack - the color of the foliage turns pale - the timing of flowering and fruiting will be postponed.
• Phosphorus imbalance: foliage becomes clearly purple tone- flaw; leaves turn yellow and fall off - excess.
• The branches and leaves of a tomato dry out - there is not enough potassium, and become covered with matte spots - potassium is in excess.
• If the leaves of tomatoes growing in the open ground began to curl, it became necessary to feed potassium and nitrogen in careful doses, excluding phosphates.

When choosing a fertilizer dosage for tomatoes, you must strictly follow the instructions and your own assessment of soil fertility. The "gluttonous" root system of tomatoes will use the maximum possible amount of fertilizers applied to the soil, not at all caring about the consequences, which can harm, first of all, the quality of tomatoes. Experienced gardeners know that it is better to underfertilize than to overfertilize tomatoes.

Fertile soils initially have a sufficient set of macro- and microelements, but impoverished soils are in dire need of their harmonious periodic replenishment by applying appropriate fertilizers. This is true not only for the cultivation of tomatoes, but also for the rest. vegetable crops your garden.

The main among the soil macro-and microelements affecting the yield are: nitrogen, potassium, calcium and phosphorus - the most demanded various types nightshade plants. Nitrogen contributes to the proper development of nightshade seedlings before the formation of buds. The baton of nitrogenous compounds with the onset of the period of formation of fruit ovaries is picked up by potassium and regulates the juiciness of tomatoes. Phosphorus is extremely important for the vegetation of tomatoes, the lack of which the leaves of seedlings and developed bushes will respond with a purple hue. Without a sufficient level of calcium, it is not necessary to talk about a high-quality root system and strong stems. Full calcium filling is the protection of tomatoes from diseases. But all these elements must be in balance, only then will the best fertilizers for tomatoes be obtained.

Organic fertilizers have been known to mankind and gardeners since time immemorial and are valued for their naturalness, safety and environmental friendliness. These include manure-humus, mullein, bird droppings, wood ash, peat, silt and compost. In the process of their decomposition, mineral elements and carbon dioxide, which is so necessary for plant photosynthesis, are released.

It is better to apply a number of organic fertilizers before winter in autumn so that their organic structure is completely decomposed, which will improve the soil structure, its friability and drainage capabilities. Folk forms of fertilizers can also be classified as organic, for example, yeast mash, which is prepared from a mixture of: 10 liters of water, 10 grams of yeast, a small amount of sugar or old jam, which after mixing must be kept in a warm place for several days and used as a root after fermentation top dressing after watering early in the morning or in the evening.

Manure, mullein, bird droppings in dilution with water are fermented, for urgency yeast can be added. The fermented slurry is diluted with water in proportions of mullein and manure 1:7, and bird droppings 1:20, and after watering, each plant is fertilized under the root.

Herbal mixtures of weeds or an infusion of chopped nettles, chopped beforehand, are poured with water and insisted for several days in warm weather. As soon as the fermentation stops and the solution brightens, it can be used in a tenfold dilution with water as a liquid root dressing only for tomatoes in open ground.

Mineral fertilizers are inorganic compounds, which contain the chemical nutrients necessary for plants, in the form of various mineral salts.

Depending on what nutrients they contain, fertilizers are usually divided into simple and complex. Simple mineral fertilizers contain any one mineral element of plant nutrition.

This type includes phosphorus, nitrogen, potash and mineral fertilizers. Complex fertilizers contain two or more main nutrients at the same time. Mineral fertilizers for tomatoes are produced at chemical enterprises, they have convenient and durable packaging, on which all the information and even instructions for use for plant nutrition are written.

Mineral salts such as ammonium sulfate, ammonium sulphate, carbamide provide the soil with nitrogen, but will acidify it excessively. It turns out that when they fertilize nightshade plants, which are harmed by excess acidity, it is necessary to add lime to the soil after applying this series of fertilizers.

An important source of nitrogen in early dates growing tomatoes is urea. The most used mineral fertilizer is superphosphate, which can saturate the soil with phosphorus, which is easily absorbed by the root system of tomatoes and peppers, but direct contact with the roots of the powder of this fertilizer can burn them - you need to take care of the soil layer.

Complex fertilizers for tomatoes

Such fertilizers are best purchased in a production blend, where several different mineral salts are combined in a balance at an accurate dosage, useful plants when applied correctly. Gardeners approve of the mineral complex: "Kemira", "Mortar" and "Universal".

Experienced gardeners are able to complete various mineral fertilizers themselves: double, triple - according to the number of combined elements. For beginners, such creativity can turn into the fact that plants can receive some elements in excess from such combinations, others in deficiency, and the difference between them can result in a failure to assimilate the third element. When growing tomatoes in open ground, urea, nitrophoska, calcium nitrate and potassium monophosphate are most often used.

Instructions on how to properly feed tomatoes in the open field?

The frequency of application of fertilizers during the growing season of tomatoes correlates with the state of soil fertility, but usually at least 3 times per season, and according to objective indications, more is possible. Moreover, such dressings can be foliar and root. It is desirable to alternate them.

Foliar top dressing of tomatoes

Foliar top dressing of tomatoes is appropriate while the fruits of tomatoes are pouring, because they transport nutrients faster when sprayed through the leaves. For example, pale leaves indicate a significant lack of nitrogen, and the best and fastest way to deliver it to the plant is by spraying with an aqueous solution of urea.

Spraying time - early in the morning or after sunset, so that the nutrients are absorbed optimally. The fertilizer solution must be at least +22°C.

Root nutrition of tomatoes

Tomato root nutrition is dosed watering liquid fertilizer right under the root of the plant. It should be carried out after watering for better transportation directly to the root system. This fertilizer should be applied under each plant.

So, the agricultural technique of feeding tomatoes is quite complicated, it requires compliance important rules, compliance with the terms of feeding, only the best fertilizers for tomatoes, and most importantly, a competent selection of types of fertilizers, both organic and mineral.

For the normal development of seedlings, and then abundant fruiting, tomatoes constantly need moisture and nutrients. Great amount minerals to be spent on the growth of the vegetative mass, and how much chemical elements fruits contain: salts of potassium, phosphorus, magnesium, sodium, calcium, in small amounts sulfur, chlorine, there are traces of iodine, iron, copper, zinc, fluorine.

Tomatoes grow quickly and respond well to top dressing.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the greenhouse

Often, beginner gardeners have a question about how to feed tomatoes in a polycarbonate greenhouse. In fact, there is no difference, a greenhouse made of polycarbonate, glass or film - no. Tomatoes are grown under a roof, protected from rain. What material protects them from precipitation and cold is not important to us. Top dressing in any greenhouse is the same.

Recall that we bring the first nutrition for tomatoes into the holes when planting seedlings. Classic recipe soil preparation for tomatoes:

• 200-300 g ash, 20-25 g ammonium nitrate, 25-30 g potassium sulfate, 50-60 g superphosphate

We give the seedlings a rest for two or three days, then we carry out a garter to the trellis. Then we take care as usual - after abundant watering around the tomato bushes, we loosen the soil so that a crust does not form, and if the soils are poorly cultivated, poor (sandy and sandy loamy), we mulch with humus. If the soil is well developed, it is enough to mulch the bushes with straw.

Feeding should begin two weeks after planting seedlings. The root system during this time increases approximately two times, the tops - two to three times.

Important: after planting seedlings, the first watering should be carried out with a solution of phytosporin. Don't forget that prevention is always more effective than treatment. It is necessary to dilute 1 tbsp. spoon (15 ml) of phytosporin per 10 liters of water, pour 1 glass per bush after watering, repeat every 5 days 3-4 times. Watering can be combined with fertilizing tomatoes.

The first top dressing can be carried out with organic matter, because the tomato bushes continue to gain vegetative mass, and the need for nitrogen is still significant. The classic recipe: mullein diluted with water in a ratio of 1:10 or chicken manure 1:20. Organics need to be insisted for at least a day, only then water the tomatoes. The consumption of the solution is 2-3 liters per bush.

Principles of feeding tomatoes

Gardeners have different points of view on the frequency of feeding tomatoes.

Some believe that you need to feed 3-4 times per season:

1. Two weeks after planting seedlings.
2. Before flowering.
3. With the appearance of ties.
4. As the crop matures.

But since the development of tomatoes does not always occur evenly, some gardeners rely on weekly alternation of dressings:

After the first root dressing, a week later - foliar, with a complex of trace elements, a week later again root, etc. Thus, an alternation of root and foliar dressings is obtained, each approximately once every two weeks.

In fact, not everything is so concise and simple here, the frequency of top dressing depends on the weather (temperature, humidity), and on the speed of tomato ripening, and on unexpected diseases. If the plants are weakened by diseases, root fertilizing should not be increased, but reduced, reducing their concentration by half. And foliar feed enrich with growth stimulants.

Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field

Top dressing of tomatoes in the open field differs from top dressing in greenhouses in that we cannot control the temperature and moisture content of the soil (precipitation). When growing a tomato in a greenhouse, we water it as needed, as the earth dries out, and, according to a certain scheme, we apply top dressing.

Tomatoes in open ground are in more severe conditions, if prolonged rains begin, nutrients need to be applied more often, since a significant proportion of them are washed out with sieges. In addition, there is the problem of foliar top dressing. The fertilizer application schedule for tomatoes is shifting, adjusting to weather conditions.

Foliar top dressing of tomatoes

Meaning foliar feeding it is difficult to overestimate tomatoes - nutrients enter directly into plant tissues, this is especially important when the weather is damp, rainy (spray immediately after rain), when the seedlings are weak and the root system is not able to provide the bush with all the nutrients.

First of all, foliar top dressing allows you to make up for the lack of potassium, boron, magnesium, zinc, copper.

To prepare foliar top dressing for 10 liters of water, take:

• 1 g of potassium permanganate, 1 g of boric acid, 2 g of magnesium sulfate, 2 g of zinc sulfate, 0.5 g of copper sulfate

If you have no desire to make such mixtures of trace elements, you can feed the tomatoes with ready-made complex fertilizer.

In total, during the growth of tomatoes, 3-4 foliar top dressings should be carried out, with an interval of 10-15 days. The first foliar top dressing is carried out 10-15 days after planting the seedlings. Subsequent with an interval of 15 days when the ovary is formed.

Spray in the evening or at cloudy weather to avoid burning the leaves.

During the mass flowering of tomatoes, it is imperative to spray with a solution of calcium nitrate: 1st. dilute a spoonful of saltpeter in 10 liters of water. This will protect the tomatoes from blossom end rot. But the drug Kalbit S is more effective than calcium nitrate - if possible, purchase it - it contains a calcium chelate complex (in a form more accessible to plants). Do not mix fertilizers containing calcium with fertilizers containing phosphorus. The interval between spraying these drugs should be at least four days.

Root top dressing of tomatoes

Based on the fertilizers that you have in your arsenal, you can make various recipes for dressing tomatoes and peppers. Each is designed for 10 liters of water, and the consumption is up to 1 liter of solution per bush:

• 1 recipe: 1 liter of mullein infusion, 15 g of nitrophoska (1 tablespoon)
• 2 recipe: 0.5 l of chicken manure solution (1:20), 20 g of superphosphate, 5 g of potassium sulfate
• 3 recipe: 1 l of mullein infusion, 20 g of superphosphate, 1 glass of ash
• 4 recipe: 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complex multi-component fertilizer
• 5 recipe: 1 tbsp. spoon of potassium humate, 1 tbsp. a spoonful of complex multi-component fertilizer
• 6 recipe: 2 tbsp. spoons of ash, 20 g of superphosphate, 0.3 g of manganese sulfate (on the tip of a knife)
• 7 recipe: 1 liter of green fertilizer, 2 cups of ash, 2 g blue vitriol(1/3 teaspoon)
• 8 recipe: 1 liter of green fertilizer, 2 cups of ash, 2 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate, 2 g of copper sulfate (1/3 teaspoon)

Need to choose more suitable option and carry out root feeding no more than 1 time in two weeks, based on the principle: “It is better to underfeed than to overfeed”.

Look for signs of a mineral deficiency or excess

If the tomato leaves have curled inward and blossom end rot has appeared on the fruit, they are deficient in calcium. Spraying the bushes with a solution of calcium nitrate will help correct the situation.

If with reverse side the leaves turned purple - a clear lack of phosphorus. Be sure to include superphosphate in top dressing (up to 3 tablespoons per bucket of water).

If the leaves of tomatoes are pale, light green, the bushes do not grow, most likely, there is a lack of nitrogen - it is enough to feed with mullein (1:10). But if the tomatoes grow vigorously, gain a large leaf mass, but delay flowering - this is an excess of nitrogen, most likely you overdid it with organic matter. Eliminate fertilizing with mullein and all nitrogenous fertilizers (urea, ammophos, nitrophoska, etc.), include only phosphorus and potassium in fertilizers.

Tomato leaves can also turn yellow from excess phosphorus! Therefore, do not feed thoughtlessly, write down in a notebook what and how much feeding was carried out.

Most of all, tomatoes need potassium - with its deficiency, the leaves begin to dry out, and the fruits acquire a green-red variegated color - the coloring is uneven. But an excess of potassium is also harmful - the leaves become covered with dull spots, wither and fall off.

Complex fertilizers for tomatoes

Why do we need multi-component complex fertilizers at all, where everything is in one bottle, because they are many times more expensive than one-two and three-component ones!

Indeed, for the first time it is not difficult to dilute a couple of spoons of superphosphate, a handful of ash, etc. in a bucket. But such compound fertilizers have three significant drawbacks:

• you need to weigh all the components and measure accurately, which is especially difficult when it comes to microdoses of 0.5-1 g
• powdered fertilizers are dusty and many of them are very toxic, for example, when measuring copper sulfate, you need to use a respirator so as not to inhale toxic dust.
• the exact composition of the fertilizer is not always known, for example, for ash we can only assume the amount of nutrients, since a variety of plant residues usually go into the furnace

If we use multicomponent complex fertilizers, we know what we feed - the manufacturer indicated exactly which minerals are included in the composition and attached instructions for use - how much to dilute and how much solution to pour under a bush or per 1 m2 of land. Fertilizers for tomatoes, peppers and eggplant are calculated according to the needs of these particular crops.

Attention: most complex multi-component fertilizers for vegetables contain high doses of nitrogen - be careful! Compare nitrogen composition and consider the NPK ratio if you applied a large amount of organic matter to the soil for tomatoes. It is better to use fertilizers designed for feeding tomatoes, peppers and eggplant.

Fertika Kristalon for tomatoes NPK 8:11:37+5mg + micro - for tomatoes, peppers and eggplants, outdoors and greenhouses. Composition: 8% nitrogen, 11% phosphorus, 37% potassium, 4.5% magnesium, 10% sulfur, 0.027% boron, 0.04% copper, 0.15% iron, 0.06% magnesium, 0.004% molybdenum, 0.027% zinc. Application: for tomatoes in the greenhouse 10-20 g / 10 l of water with each watering, for tomatoes in the open ground 10-20 g / 10 l of water 1 time in 2 weeks. For spraying: 10 g per 1 liter of water, repeat after 7-10 days. This is one of the most the best fertilizers for tomatoes (successful NPK formula - little nitrogen, all minerals are taken into account).

Fertika Universal 2, composition 12% nitrogen, 8% phosphorus, 14% potassium, 2% magnesium, 8% sulfur, 0.2% iron, 0.1% boron, 0.1% copper, 0.2% manganese, 0.01% molybdenum, 0.1% zinc. Application rate: 40-50 g per sq. m under tomatoes when planting in holes. In the process of growing tomatoes in greenhouses and open ground: Spread 20-25 g of fertilizer evenly over 1 m2, lightly mix with the ground and water abundantly. Two top dressings with an interval of 2-3 weeks. Not the most successful fertilizer, to be honest it is only suitable for planting seedlings.

Fertika Lux, composition: NPK 16-20-27 + trace elements (Fe -0.1%, B - 0.02%, Cu - 0.01%, Mn - 0.1%, Mo - 0.002%, Zn - 0 .01%). 1 st. Dissolve a spoonful (20 g) of fertilizer in 10 liters of water. For feeding tomatoes in protected ground once a week, in open ground - 1 time in two weeks. Can be used, gives good results, suitable for foliar top dressing. Do not mix with organic!

Agricola for tomatoes №3. Composition: NPK 13-20-20 + MgO + trace elements. The consumption rate is 25 g per 10 liters of water, enough for 10-20 m2 of planted tomato ridges in a greenhouse or open ground. The manufacturer does not indicate the dosage of minerals, but the fertilizer is not bad, use only as an independent one.

Fertilizer Good Force No. 2 Vegetable for tomatoes, eggplants, peppers. Composition: NPK (3:2.5:6), trace elements Boron, iron, manganese, zinc, copper, molybdenum, cobalt; humic acids, vitamins: B1, PP; growth stimulant: succinic acid.

Aquarin Vegetable. Composition: 19% nitrogen, 6: phosphorus, 20% potassium, 1.5% magnesium, Trace elements,%: Fe 0.054; Zn - 0.014; Cu - 0.01; Mn - 0.042; Mo - 0.004; B - 0.02. Instructions: 1st top dressing 10-15 days after planting seedlings, 10-15 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water. During the fruiting period, watering every 7-10 days: 15-25 g per 10 liters of water.

Fertilizer Zdravven "Your Farm Tomatoes". Composition: nitrogen 15%, phosphorus 20%, potassium 15%, magnesium 2%, sodium humate 2%; trace elements boron 0.03%, manganese 0.04%, zinc 0.02%, copper 0.02%, molybdenum 0.005%. Without chlorine! Consumption rates for irrigation: 15 g of fertilizer per 10 liters of water, for spraying 10 g per 10 liters of water.

OMU Bogatyr for tomatoes, 300 ml - only for seedlings. Composition: nitrogen (N) 21 g/l, phosphorus (P2O5) 48 g/l, potassium (K2O) 72 g/l, Fe 60 mg/l, Cu 24 mg/l, Zn 50 mg/l, pH 3. Foliar top dressing: 1 cap (5 ml) per 1 liter of water. Root top dressing: 2 caps (10ml) per 1L of water.

Orton-vegetable for tomatoes, 20 g - complex water-soluble fertilizer with humate. Composition: NPK 7:19:21 + MgO + trace elements + 1.8% humic acids. Application: Dissolve 20 g of fertilizer in 10 liters of water. Water the plants 2-3 times per season during the periods of bud formation, flowering and fruiting.

How to prepare green manure for tomatoes

Fill a plastic barrel with a capacity of 20 liters for 3/4 of the volume with mowed grass: nettle, dandelions, goutweed, clover, casting vegetables, tops, pour water, cover with a transparent film, and leave to wander in the sun for 7 days. Important: use only healthy cut leaves!

Strain the fermented green manure. It is concentrated, you need to use it after dilution with water: 1 liter of green manure per 9 liters of water.

Feeding tomatoes with boron

Boron is necessary for all flowering and fruiting plants, vegetables and berries - it increases the number of buds, flowers, improves the nutrition of the ovaries, and helps to increase the yield and improve its quality (increases sugar content).

Boron can be applied with watering and as a foliar top dressing. When spraying, boron is absorbed several times faster: after watering, wait a week and a half for the result, and when spraying, 2-3 days.

Of course, the result of feeding with boron is noticeable only when there were acute signs of its shortage: the tops of the bushes in tomatoes acquire a light green color, as with a lack of nitrogen. But do not confuse the two deficient conditions: with a lack of boron, the most upper leaves, the tip of the escape. The leaves are twisted, deformed, petioles become brittle, growth points die off. If the fruits have already formed, they grow crooked, covered brown spots. This is already a difficult stage, this should not be allowed to happen.

To prevent boron deficiency, spraying should be carried out boric acid at the rate of 1 g of acid per 1 liter of water, or 10 g per 10 liters of water.

Boric acid should be poured with a small amount of boiling water, stirred until completely dissolved, then brought to the desired volume with water. The resulting solution should be warm.

Do not spare boron, dilute a large volume and spray not only tomatoes, but also cucumbers, as well as all berry crops: strawberries, currants, gooseberries, raspberries.

• It is necessary to spray with boron during the mass flowering of tomatoes. But, once - you do not need to repeat top dressing. One spray is enough!

Top dressing of tomatoes (tomatoes) with iodine

Feeding tomatoes with iodine is not only additional nutrition, but also protection of vegetables from late blight and other fungal and bacterial diseases.

You can spray with iodine every two weeks, the first time starting with the planting of tomatoes in greenhouses (made of polycarbonate, glass, film) or open ground. It is important that spraying be at temperatures above 18 ° C and in cloudy weather, or in the evening.

To protect tomatoes from late blight, dilute 5 drops of iodine in 10 liters of water. Measure iodine with a pipette or syringe, do not increase the dose.

There are recipes for spraying tomatoes with iodine and whey - this is a completely useless undertaking. Whey contains beneficial microorganisms (lactic acid bacteria, lactobacilli, etc.) and the purpose of whey spraying is to populate beneficial microflora on vegetable leaves so that they displace pathogenic microorganisms, for example, pathogen powdery mildew. But if you add iodine to whey, you will kill them, the meaning of the whole idea is lost. For the same reason, it is impossible to combine spraying with iodine and phytosporin. You will have to choose one.

But you can and should add low-fat milk to the iodine solution! Only for a different purpose - so that the solution sticks to the leaves better, add a glass of milk to a bucket of water.

There is another option for using iodine on tomatoes, it is only suitable for growing tomatoes in greenhouses - hanging vials of iodine. For one greenhouse 3 m long, at least 6-8 vials of iodine are needed. Remove the lid, hang the vial between the bushes. Iodine vapors disinfect the air in the greenhouse and prevent phytophthora pathogens from roaming. Important: you can’t stay in a greenhouse for a long time, where jars of iodine are suspended, you can get poisoned by its vapors.

To feed tomatoes with iodine in the open field, you need to take 10 g of iodine per 10 liters of water and pour half a liter of solution under each bush.