Planting tree seedlings in spring. Spring planting of fruit trees: rules and expert advice

When growing horticultural crops in the Moscow region and most regions of Russia, seedlings are usually planted fruit trees in the spring. This procedure is not burdensome for the gardener and guarantees the survival of almost any fruit and berry bushes and trees.

Planting dates according to the lunar calendar

The basis lunar calendar periods of changing the phase of the Moon are established, that is, synodic months. Many amateur gardeners actively use the lunar and lunisolar calendars to determine the best time to plant plants in spring or autumn in the garden.

To plant seedlings correctly and get healthy and abundantly fruiting fruit or berry crop, it is advisable to adhere to the deadlines indicated in the table.

Garden culture Planting days in March Planting days in April Planting days in May
Apricot, cherry and plum seedlings 1 and 2 28 and 29 2 and 3 29 and 30 3 and 4 30 and 31
Quince and pear seedlings 1 and 2 6 and 7 2 and 3 29 and 30 3 and 4 23, 27 and 28
Hawthorn seedlings 2 and 7 29 3 26 and 30 23, 27 and 28, 31
Seedlings of serviceberry, viburnum and sea buckthorn 6 and 7 25 and 26, 29 4 27 and 28
Gooseberry, raspberry and currant seedlings 7 28 and 29 3 25 and 30 23, 27 and 28, 31
Apple tree seedlings Landing is undesirable 2 and 3 25 and 26 29 and 30 3 and 4 27 and 28 30 and 31
Cherry seedlings 7 and 29 2 and 3 25 3 and 4 27

Optimal time for planting tree and shrub seedlings for the Moscow region

Climatic conditions on the territory of the Moscow region are moderately continental and are transitional from a mild European climate to a sharply continental Asian one. These features, combined with quality characteristics The soils in the Moscow region make spring planting of fruit and berry crops optimal. When choosing the timing of the event, it should be taken into account that the following types of soil predominate in the Moscow region:

  • low-fertility, soddy-podzolic soils that require regular fertilization;
  • loamy and clay soils with medium and strong podzolization - at higher elevations;
  • soddy-podzolic, marsh, sandy loam and sandy soils - at higher elevations.

The characteristics of the soil influence the degree of its warming up in spring period. However, regardless of the type of soil, planting berries and fruit crops must be carried out before sap flow and bud break, which increases the survival rate of the plant. Early spring planting is especially important for cherries, which, when planted in the autumn, very often freeze out. Apricots can only be planted in the third ten days of April, after sufficient soil warming and with minimal risk of return spring frosts. Such fruit plants, like apple, pear and plum trees, in the southern Moscow region can be planted not only in the early spring, but also in the fall, about a month and a half before severe frosts.

IN recent years the share of sales of planting material with a closed root system has increased. Such plants are not particularly demanding when it comes to planting time. permanent place, so they can be planted both in spring and early autumn. However, it is very important that the plant is grown in the container being sold, and not transplanted there immediately before sale.

In order not to delay planting plants in the spring, planting holes should be prepared in the fall, observing the required dimensions and distance between planting fruit or berry plantings.

Fruit tree seedlings: planting in spring (video)

Landing rules

In the first couple of years after planting in a permanent place young tree or the bush is used to feed substances that were introduced into the hole during planting, which suggests proper preparation soil and proper enrichment of it with necessary nutrients. Preparing the pit in the fall allows the soil to fully settle within winter period. The best survival rate of plants is observed in round pits with steep walls.

Medium sizes landing pit depend on the age and type of fruit and berry crop, as well as the structural indicators of the soil at the planting site:

  • the presence of cultivated soils with sufficient high level fertility involves preparing planting holes with a diameter and depth of 70-75 cm;
  • in virgin lands, the dimensions of the pit should be approximately two to three times larger than standard, which will ensure root system nutrition due to the laid fertile soil mixture;
  • in heavy and clayey conditions, as well as sandy soils the depth and diameter of the planting hole should be approximately 0.9-1.0 m.

In order to reduce filtration rates, the bottom of the planting pit should be covered with a layer of clay with peat in a 50/50 ratio, the thickness of which should be approximately 10 cm. For garden plantings on low-growing types of rootstocks, the best areas are those with breathable soils, as well as chestnut loamy soils.

The top layer of removed soil should be mixed with 18-20 kg of rotted manure or 25-30 kg of peat, and also add 0.3 kg of superphosphate and 0.15 kg potash fertilizers. Regardless of the planting method, it is necessary to distribute the root system as evenly as possible throughout the planting hole. Immediately after planting, it is recommended to trim the aboveground part by a third, which will restore the balance between the root system and the crown.

Care after landing

Standard care for fruit and berry plantings involves the implementation of all basic agrotechnical measures:

  • crown care begins in the second year after planting the plants in a permanent place;
  • in the first years, fruit trees and berry bushes for good growth and full development, soil care in the tree trunk area is especially important;
  • at the stage of spring digging of the soil according to the projection of the crown, organic matter, phosphorus and potassium, as well as nitrogen fertilizers;
  • if the soil moisture is insufficient, it is necessary to carry out spring and autumn moisture-recharging irrigation;
  • any forming and pruning work must be completed before the buds begin to grow active growth;
  • even before the buds open, garden plants are treated with a 1% copper solution or a 2% solution iron sulfate;
  • in the conditions of late return frosts it is necessary to smoke or sprinkle the plants;
  • after rains and irrigation activities, it is important to loosen the soil in tree trunk circles, which helps to improve the supply of oxygen to the root system of cultivated crops.

How to plant a rose seedling (video)

The main concern of the gardener summer period is to fully ensure the increased need of fruit trees and berry bushes for basic nutrients and moisture, as well as protecting plantings from pests and diseases and removing weeds.

Spring is the most popular time for gardeners to plant vegetation. It is in spring that most plants are planted in open ground: from herbaceous annuals to trees and shrubs.

At what age can trees and shrubs be planted in spring?

In spring, young plants are usually planted and replanted. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling is, the faster it takes root.

If you intend to plant mature trees up to 2 m high on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing species that are 12-20 years old are the easiest to transplant.

Fast-growing species can be replanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees - up to 8-16 years, depending on the type. For shrubs, the maximum age for transplantation also depends on the specific species.

As for large sizes from 2 m and above, then best time For their transplantation - frosty winter days. In winter, the ground is frozen and the earthen lump of the tree does not crumble when dug up, which makes it possible to replant large trees without significant damage to the root system.

Planting a new garden

Let's say you're about to pawn new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a planting plan (scheme), you know which plants you will plant in what place, how to position them relative to each other and relative to the sun. The last question remains: “When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?”

There are some differences in planting deciduous and coniferous species. In addition, the planting time depends on what kind of seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.

Planting deciduous trees

For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with a ball of earth, there are no strict time limits for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care during the first time after planting.

However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system is the end of May - the beginning of June, when root growth is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because... in this case, damage to the roots is practically excluded.

Bare-root plants can be planted while they are at a stage of relative dormancy, i.e. The buds have not yet swelled and started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have shed their leaves and nature begins to fall asleep.

It is advisable to plant seedlings with bare roots immediately after purchase. If you need to postpone this event for a while, you can temporarily bury them in some shaded place: place them in a shallow hole at a slight angle and carefully cover the roots with soil.

Planting conifers

Conifers and evergreens They tolerate transplantation worse than deciduous trees. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at a later time. early dates, slightly earlier than deciduous ones.

Coniferous trees and shrubs should only be replanted with a closed root system. Be careful not to purchase conifer seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen clod.

In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, and were not transplanted into them shortly before sale.

If coniferous seedlings are grown in open ground, then they are then transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which subsequently, after planting the plants in a permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided many kilometers from the excavation site.

The degree of risk can be reduced by direct transplantation of conifers directly from soil to soil, and in the shortest possible time. The best time to dig coniferous seedlings from the soil – the period before the beginning of the growing season, i.e. early spring. And the sooner you plant them in a permanent place, the greater the likelihood that the plants will successfully take root.

What else affects the disembarkation time?

If your region has harsh winters with little snow or your site has clayey, highly compacted soil, then spring planting of trees and shrubs is recommended.

Since if you plant in the fall, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root before winter. Moreover, heat-loving species should be planted only after late spring frosts have passed.

When to cook pits

Pits and soil for planting trees and shrubs can be prepared 2-3 weeks in advance. But it is best to prepare them in the fall, especially if the soil on your site is not light, i.e. clayey or loamy.

To do this, dig holes of the required size; if necessary, the excavated soil is mixed with sand and poured back into the holes. Over the winter, the soil in the hole will settle to just the right level. In late autumn they bring into the pits organic fertilizers, and in the spring they loosen the soil and apply mineral fertilizers.

The spring planting period is short

There is no point in delaying the spring planting of trees and shrubs, because... the time for its implementation is very limited. As soon as the ground thaws, plants can begin to be planted in the ground. But only until the moment when active bud growth begins. And this period lasts only about 3 weeks and in temperate latitudes it occurs in mid-April - early May.

Well, if you are suddenly late with spring planting, don’t worry, most plants can be planted both in spring and autumn. And, by the way, in the fall the period of possible planting lasts much longer - 1.5-2 months.

If you dream about flowering trees spring and a rich harvest in the fall (which, however, will have to wait a couple of years), then planning a wonderful orchard You should start by studying the rules for choosing and the nuances of planting fruit trees. Today Elena Mironova, leading designer of the Bastet studio, will talk about the most important, in her opinion, moments.

General director and leading designer of the Bastet studio. She studied interior design at the International School of Design. Has been involved in interior design for more than 10 years. Considers work to be a calling. Loves non-standard complex tasks, requiring full dedication and concentration.

Should I plant in spring?

It's no secret that spring, like autumn, is a traditional time for planting work. However, gardeners have divided opinions about when it is best to plant fruit trees: some argue that the optimal time for planting is autumn, while others say spring.

Of course, both options are possible if the most important condition is met: the seedlings must be in hibernation (as is known, the hibernation period in plants lasts from the moment the leaves fall until the buds open).

But still, for Central Russia with its cold winters it is preferable spring planting. It is also supported by the fact that young trees are much less likely to freeze, unlike those planted in the fall, and that in the spring, young seedlings are not such a tasty prey for rodents as during the first autumn frosts and snowfalls, and the fact that Trees planted in spring will have more time for growth and development for the whole warm season.

Of course, spring planting also has cons: a strict upper time limit (if a seedling is planted too late, it will be problematic to get it out) and frequent, unlike autumn, watering. However, when choosing a planting time, there is one simple rule: the further north your site is, the more arguments in favor of spring planting and vice versa.

Should be planted exclusively in spring heat-loving plants, such as: cherries, plums, sweet cherries, apricots, cherry plums, and non-winter-hardy varieties of pears.

As practice shows, seedlings with closed root system(with a voluminous lump of earth): gardeners are less likely to damage the roots when planting, and such plants can be planted until mid-June. Seedlings with open root system, on the contrary, it is necessary to plant strictly before the buds begin to swell and without delaying too much - it’s better immediately after purchasing, so that the tree does not have time to dry out.

Planting fruit trees in spring: where to get seedlings?

This is the second, if not the first question that arises.

Alas, the choice of seedlings in large nurseries - both in variety and quality - is wider in the fall. In the spring, nurseries mostly sell off autumn leftovers, which means that the likelihood of choosing a strong and healthy tree, and of the desired variety, is significantly reduced. But there is no need to be discouraged. If the idea of ​​planting a garden of fruit trees did not suddenly occur to you (you have been nurturing it for some time), then you can purchase planting material in the fall, or even arrange at the nursery for the staff to reserve trees of the required varieties for you in the spring.

But it’s better not to buy seedlings from large garden hypermarkets. Alas, in such places everything is focused on the number of sales, and often at the time of purchase, plants that seemed healthy (but in fact were simply overfed with fertilizers) begin to wither and die literally after a few days.

What to look for when purchasing?

If you still choose seedlings yourself, you should remember the following:

  • the seedling must be smooth and without flaws;
  • it should not show any signs of disease;
  • if the seedling is sold in a container, the roots should not grow through drainage holes;
  • any damage to the roots is unacceptable. Dried roots also indicate that the plant is not viable;
  • earthen lump - again, not overdried! – must be the same volume as the crown of the tree;
  • leaves on the seedling should be completely absent.

How to plant?

When thinking about planting fruit trees, do not forget that planting plan should not contradict the general concept landscape design plot. It is not at all necessary to place all the trees in one place; you can picturesquely “scatter” them around the site. But to take into account all the nuances, it is better to consult with an experienced landscape designer.

And of course, the planting plan should be thought out in advance. Here it is important to keep in mind the composition of the soil, the lighting, and the distance between trees (at different types and fruit varieties, both the crown and the root system grow differently, which must be taken into account, otherwise mature tree may interfere with neighbors).

The landing algorithm itself is easy to find on the Internet or other sources. Let us dwell separately on some nuances spring plantings, which gardeners often forget about.

  1. Never use fresh manure for fertilizer - it will burn the root system of the plant. The best option here is last year’s manure, fermented or compost. You can also use store-bought manure-based fertilizers.
  2. When you cover the roots with soil, do not forget to straighten them, and also shake the seedling periodically so that voids do not form under the roots.
  3. The roots should not remain on the surface, but you should not deepen the plant too much. The best option, When root collar The seedling (the place where the plant trunk meets the roots) is at ground level.
  4. It is better to fix the support for the seedling until the plant is planted, so as not to damage the roots. Just drive it into the bottom of the hole, and then place the tree so that the support is on its northern side - this way it will also protect the tree that is not accustomed to bright sun young tree bark. Remember that the upper limit of the support should be below the beginning of the growth of the branches.
  5. If the place chosen for planting the tree is damp, add a mound of soil before planting to prevent rotting of the roots.

The most important The thing to remember is that skill comes with experience. Of course, you are unlikely to get by completely without mistakes, especially if you are planting a garden for the first time. In this case, before starting work, it is better to consult with experienced gardener or a landscape designer, which is even preferable: a specialist will examine your idea from all sides and find weak spots in it that you most likely do not notice yourself.

In any case, even if you have no one to consult with, do not under any circumstances give up the dream of your own orchard. Draw a planting plan on paper, write down separately everything that may be important, carefully analyze your plan again and go for it! You will definitely succeed.

Planting fruit trees in spring video:

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Every year gardeners ask themselves: when is the best time to plant fruit trees and berry bushes , autumn or spring. Each season has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Let's take a closer look why is it better to plant trees in autumn when and how to land on your summer cottage.

Each plant has its own favorable time for transplanting and planting in a new place.

Let's figure it out what fruit trees can be planted in autumn and why.

When all the harvest has been harvested from the garden bed, it’s time to start planting seedlings. This is an important time, the main thing is to plant the plants on time.

The main advantage of autumn planting is the reasonable price of seedlings. It is more profitable to buy seedlings in autumn: large selection freshly dug seedlings, affordable price, quality material easy to distinguish.

Plants are often sold with leftover leaves and fresh roots (which indicate a healthy plant). In the fall, some gardeners, along with seedlings, often display the fruits inherent in this variety, which is very important for buyers.

Planting in the fall requires a minimum of care for seedlings in a summer cottage. Sometimes one watering is enough, then autumn weather and rains will create favorable conditions for seedlings.

The root system continues to grow, despite the fact that a dormant period has begun. Root growth continues until the soil temperature drops to +4 degrees.

The main thing is to plant the seedlings in time so that young roots have time to form before the onset of stable frosts. These new roots will begin to grow with the onset of spring, even 2-3 weeks earlier than the seedlings planted in the spring.

A significant plus of autumn planting of trees and shrubs in autumn– lack of other work in the garden and in the garden; in the spring there will be a lot of them.

In regions with warm winters It is better to plant in the fall, the ground does not freeze to the depth of the roots, young trees are not in danger of freezing and hypothermia.

Disadvantages of autumn planting

Ice, strong wind, snowfall and others weather conditions young seedlings can be damaged.

Main disadvantages:
-- severe frosts can harm fragile trees.
-- rodents can damage seedlings in late autumn and winter.
-- young seedlings can simply be stolen while you are away from the dacha.

Video - Compatibility of fruit trees

Which trees and shrubs take root well when planted in the fall?

From fruit trees we can distinguish winter-hardy varieties of pears and apple trees.

Also take root well:

Chokeberry, currant, raspberry, gooseberry, honeysuckle, walnut, chestnut, birch, coniferous trees.

Avoid landing winter-hardy varieties trees and shrubs.

Apple trees, pears, apricots, plums, peaches, cherries, cherries, almonds.

Do not plant seedlings in the southern regions that were grown in northern regions, they will not tolerate frosts that are not typical for their homeland.

The optimal period for planting trees and shrubs is the end of September and all of October. In warm weather it can last until mid-November (southern regions).

Every year the weather is changeable and planting dates in autumn depend largely on weather conditions.

Important to remember: The guideline for planting and transplanting seedlings is the dormant period of plants, which begins after the end of leaf fall.

Video - When is the best time to plant seedlings of fruit and berry trees?

It happens that it was not possible to plant in the fall. Do you still have seedlings or purchased seedlings are not subject to autumn planting– what to do in this case?

Storage in a cool and damp room (basement).
- Digging into the ground.
- Snowmaking

Digging into the ground - Properly buried trees will be well preserved and will survive the winter. Dig a ditch 30-40 cm deep and wide in the direction from west to east. North side the groove is vertical, and the southern one is inclined at an angle of approximately 45 degrees. Place the seedlings at a distance of 15-25 cm from each other, the roots are directed to the north, and the crown to the south. Fill the ditch with soil, stamp it down and pour plenty of water. Before frost, sprinkle with dry soil, sawdust or fallen leaves.

Snowmaking – seedlings are stored outside. Well-packed young trees overwinter under a sufficient layer of snow, which does not allow the temperature to drop for normal plant storage.

Basement storage

At low basement temperatures from 0 to 10 degrees, seedlings are stored well until spring if well-moistened roots are dipped in sand, peat or sawdust. The relative humidity in the basement should be 87-90%. During storage in the basement, seedlings must be watered once every 10 days.

Video - How to preserve seedlings until spring

When purchasing seedlings, pay attention to their external condition. Seedlings may have immature shoots if they were dug up before natural leaf fall.

Trees with numerous leaves may be unripe and overdried, since the main loss of moisture occurs through the leaves.

Fruit trees are light-loving, so choose southern sections for planting seedlings. You can plant trees in stages - tall ones to the north, low-growing ones to the south, and there will be enough light for everyone.

Also take into account the distance to buildings and communications from trees; it should be at least 4.5 m. When planting, you must know the size of the crown and root system. The roots of mature trees can cause damage even to the foundation.

Combine trees on the site correctly: Cherries grow well next to apricots. The nut oppresses all the trees that grow next to it. Do not plant apple and peach trees together. For more information about the compatibility of fruit trees, see .



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