What to plant next to each other. Where is it better to plant peas, next to which crops

Spring comes, the sun warms the earth, a hot time for the gardener comes. These days, it is very important to plan the useful area of \u200b\u200byour site and distribute it under the beds occupied different cultures. Today we will try to optimize your planting together by talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Some plants, as it turns out, are friends, help each other and protect from various pests, while the latter, on the contrary, cause mutual inhibition of growth and even death. But we are primarily interested in getting excellent harvest. So, the compatibility of vegetables in the beds is a very important and relevant issue.

Is spring site planning necessary?

Indeed, why redraw your garden every year, if you can once and for all build and plant cucumbers on one, tomatoes on the other, and so on? This is convenient, but somewhat irrational. Each plant requires its own set of microelements, and it turns out that the bed, which has been used for planting the same crop for many years, is oversaturated with unclaimed elements. Or, on the contrary, devastated by the most important to her. Therefore crop rotation is necessary. However, in a small area it is sometimes difficult to provide a full replacement, mixed plantings are forced to be used, and therefore for proper organization they need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds.

What can be the beds

We are used to the fact that our land is divided into neat rectangles, each of which grows one crop. However, there are a lot of options, and in order for your garden to be as productive as possible, you need to know the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. These can be narrow beds according to Mittlider, which require the introduction of a large amount of mineral and organic fertilizers, as well as high and multi-tiered beds. The latter are quite complex in arrangement, but they are the best suited for growing several crops. In this case, you should also be concerned about the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in the same garden, because the close proximity of plants allows them to influence each other.

compacted beds

Sowing several crops on the same bed allows you to save a lot of space and at the same time get a good result. At the same time, we must remember: it is a little easier to observe the compatibility of vegetables and flowers in one garden than to plant several at the same time. fruit crops. Here it is already necessary to take into account the difference in the growing season. However, back to the bright flower-fruit beds. Why use such a technique, is it just for beauty? It turns out not. For example, marigolds planted near tomatoes perfectly protect bushes from various pests. Other flowers serve as tasty traps for insects. Plant nasturtium in the garden - all aphids will focus on it, not paying attention to garden vegetables.

and fragrant herbs

And the greenery in the beds has long been proven, they do not compete, do not interfere with each other, but at the same time you save a lot of space and get a nice variety for your table. Herbs planted next to the fruit bed will give the vegetables a delicious taste and will protect them from insects. Rosemary repels beetles that attack beans, cabbage pests do not like thyme, aphids are afraid of onions and garlic. Oregano, like marigolds, is a reliable protection for everything fruit plot from uninvited guests.

Every gardener, even if he does not have professional knowledge, should have an idea of \u200b\u200bwhat the compatibility of vegetables and herbs in the beds is. For this, not so much is needed. So, fast-growing lettuce, radishes and other spring vegetables and herbs can be planted between pumpkins and melons. By the time the powerful stalks of the pumpkin have grown, the radish crop will have already been harvested. If you plan to plant shade-loving greens such as spinach, then choose tall plants that will provide reliable protection. For example, it could be corn. Sunflowers grow well next to corn, plants do not compete with each other.

We discussed a little general issues, will now jump directly to garden plant species. We will consider the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. How to plant this or that species, the neighborhood with which will bring him more benefit than harm, and much more.

Favorite peas: what to plant next to

This is a plant that gardeners do not like for its creep. However, it is worth considering the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds - and the disadvantage turns into a virtue. The fact is that it gets along well with corn, and its powerful trunks will be an excellent support. Thus, you will collect two crops from one bed and save yourself the trouble of tying up tender peas. But you can go even further and unify the garden bed by planting it around the perimeter with beans or carrots, lettuce, radishes, parsnips or turnips.

What else is compatible with peas? It can be planted among cucumbers, such a neighborhood will benefit both cultures. Eggplants and melons love peas, in addition, if potatoes grow in your garden, then be sure to scatter peas over the planting, its roots will enrich the earth with essential trace elements. But onions and garlic should be planted away from peas, such a neighborhood is useless at all.

Beauty Carrot

We continue to consider the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. Leading agrotechnical companies give advice to gardeners, recommending planting carrots along the edge of a bed with tomatoes and peas. It goes very well with various herbs. It's sage and rosemary. Therefore, you can make prefabricated beds with fragrant leafy greens and plant them with carrots. Or vice versa. But dill and parsley need to be moved away from carrots, such a neighborhood leads to a deterioration in the growth and development of the root crop.

Green onion

This is the first spring source of vitamins, which is loved and grown on every garden plot. However, today we are talking about the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. The list of plants with which the onion is "friends" is quite large. These are almost all the most important garden crops: beets and bell peppers, tomatoes and carrots, lettuce and broccoli. Onions are very well compatible with spinach, potatoes and cabbage. However, for planting to please you, avoid its proximity to beans, sage and peas.

bell pepper

A capricious culture that doesn't grow so well in our climate zone as in more southern areas. However, this can be slightly corrected by choosing the right neighbors. First of all, you need to remember that it cannot be planted on the same bed with beans. But the neighborhood with tomatoes, on the contrary, is very well tolerated. Do not forget to plant greens and fragrant herbs in order to make the most of the compatibility of vegetables in the beds. About ten different herbs can grow in the garden at the same time. Basil and coriander, onions and spinach go well with peppers.

Lettuce, a precious source of vitamins

Another plant that eloquently shows the compatibility of vegetables can count a dozen fruit crops, which from such a neighborhood will only grow even more magnificently. These are asparagus and beets, sunflowers and tomatoes. Experienced gardeners recommend planting lettuce along with white and Brussels sprouts, carrots and corn, cucumbers. Given that lettuce grows in a low, curly carpet, it helps conserve moisture by preventing the liquid from evaporating so quickly. Cucumbers love this neighborhood very much.

There are many ways to get off different plants on one bed. If this is an ordinary bed on a flat surface, and not a multi-tiered structure, then, in addition to interspecific competition, you need to consider the size of the plants. The central part of the garden can be occupied by sunflowers or tall tomatoes, cucumbers, then you can place onions and peas, eggplants. Or put peas on corn, and plant lettuce around. All these plants complement each other well.

Potato

Often it is this crop that occupies a significant part of the garden, which means that you need to carefully consider the compatibility of vegetables in the garden. Photos of garden plots by professional gardeners very often show the classic combination of potatoes and legumes. Indeed, beans and peas are perfectly weaving along a potato planting, primarily benefiting by enriching the earth. Although the harvest of legumes will also not be superfluous. Potatoes go well with white cabbage and broccoli, corn and eggplant, garlic, lettuce and onions.

The friendliest neighbor - eggplant

Indeed, its compatibility with other vegetables in the garden is fantastic. He has no enemies, he complements almost any culture well. However, if we talk about the health and quality of growth of the eggplant itself, then experts advise planting it next to potatoes and legumes, in particular beans and peas. Leafy vegetables are excellent neighbors for eggplant. Experienced gardeners recommend planting basil and lettuce, spinach next to the blue ones.

This begs the question: "In what order should vegetables be planted so that the garden bed is as efficient as possible?" We offer a scheme that is used by German farmers. They arrange a bed for planting root crops very wide, about 1 meter. In this case, the potato is located in the center ( early varieties can be planted in two rows, and later - in one). On the one hand, eggplant is planted in a line, and on the other, head lettuce, kohlrabi and cauliflower. All these vegetables can be alternated in one row. Two rows of spinach are sown along the edge of the bed, and the distance between them and other crops is sown with lettuce and radish.

Will take place as crops mature. The green umbel of lettuce appears first, it shade other slowly growing crops and save them from the scorching sun. Lettuce ripens first, then spinach, then radishes. About a month later, it's time for the head lettuce and cauliflower. Thus, the bed is gradually emptying, leaving room for the growth and development of eggplant and potatoes. Now it’s clear how to use the compatibility of different vegetables in the beds. How to plant correctly - will tell you personal experience, and for the first time, use the finished scheme.

Peanuts - exotic in our beds

Indeed, this crop is very rarely grown in the garden, but in vain. After all, agricultural technology is no more difficult than growing cucumbers, and you get a valuable and nutritious product. The compatibility of peanuts in the garden with vegetables is due to its high nutrient requirements. He gets along well with cucumbers, which also love high, warm and fertilized beds. In addition, any legumes can be planted with it.

Corn

A useful culture that is often undeservedly forgotten. However, it can serve as a natural support for trailing cucumbers, in addition, aphids do not like corn, which means that your cucumbers will be under natural protection. Curly legumes are also perfectly compatible with corn, they can be planted around the entire perimeter of the garden. These are beans and peas. She gets along well with melons and potatoes, zucchini and sunflowers. But the tomatoes are better planted away.

Tomatoes

A bed of tomatoes is not so conducive to the neighborhood, since voluminous bushes tend to capture all the free space. But you can use different ways planting, for example, arrange a high embankment in the center of the bed, on which to plant asparagus and basil, dill, lettuce, onion, parsley, spinach and thyme. Tomatoes love the neighborhood of legumes, so beans can be planted between rows. Carrots and melons will be an excellent option for planting in the nearest garden. But cabbage and corn should occupy another part of the garden.

Cabbage

As you already know, there are a lot of varieties of this plant, while at least white cabbage and cauliflower grow in every garden. It would seem that they can be easily planted on one bed, since you will remove the color one much earlier than its neighbor ripens. But in fact, they do not tolerate each other well, therefore, when planning a common garden bed, it is better to give preference to beans and celery, cucumbers. Fragrant herbs coexist well with cabbage, they help repel insects. These are sage and spinach, thyme, dill, onion. If landing white cabbage do not make it too thick, then in the aisles you can grow enough greens, as well as radishes.

Cauliflower

It does not grow well next to its closest relative, but it perfectly complements beds with beans and beets, celery and cucumbers, sage and thyme. Dislikes tomatoes and strawberries. Broccoli goes well with all of the listed plants, but it does not tolerate cauliflower at all, so you will have to create several beds for different types of cabbage. Brussels sprouts are one of the most tolerant and blend best in garden beds with other species. The only enemy is tomatoes, so tomatoes and cruciferous plants cannot be planted side by side under any circumstances. But dill and lettuce - please, you can add radishes and sage, spinach and turnips to the garden.

cucumbers

When planting this crop, make sure that there are no potatoes, melons and fragrant herbs, it is better to plant all the greens along with cabbage. Cucumber loves high warm bed, on which peas and beans, corn and lettuce, and radishes will grow well with it. As in the case of the previous example of a universal bed, we allocate the central strip for corn. It will become a support for cucumber, beans and peas, which can be sown not only mixed, but also together, in one hole. Along the edge of the garden bed can be planted with lettuce and radish, which will be harvested quickly enough.

How to combine incompatible

This question is especially relevant if you have a greenhouse. All vegetables love comfortable conditions, but a large greenhouse should not be empty, and it is occupied by a variety of fruit plants. To separate poorly compatible plant species, film canopies are used, which divide the greenhouse into certain sections. This helps to create a kind of microclimate.

Summing up all that has been said, I would like to note that planning mixed beds greatly helps to save space and significantly improves the quality of the crop. Soil resources are used more evenly, and the plants themselves serve as natural protection for each other from diseases and pests. It should be borne in mind that the planting pattern can be changed to suit the needs of your garden, we have given only general templates. But be sure to observe the compatibility of vegetables. This simple rule always gives excellent results and does not require any additional costs and investments. From one garden, experienced gardeners remove 11-15 kg of a variety of vegetables. Proper arrangement of plants in the garden also helps save resources, as less water and fertilizer are required. That, perhaps, is all regarding what the compatibility of vegetables in the beds is. A list of plants that are "friendly" and "not friendly" with each other is given at the beginning of our review in the form of a table. Use it - and a good harvest is guaranteed to you!

Cultures growing side by side influence each other, helping or hindering development. Compatible plants protect neighbors from pests, enrich the soil with mutually beneficial substances. Joint plantings of friendly crops make it possible to rationally use the area of the garden, grow more vegetables in one area and improve their quality.

What are the consequences?

Incompatible cultures suppress and inhibit the development of each other. They compete for water, food and sunlight, and promote disease and pests. This leads to soil depletion, a decrease in the quality and taste of vegetables, and their yield.

Plant features

Parsley is a biennial plant. In the first year, foliage and roots develop. In the second year, all the power goes to the development of shoots with peduncles and the ripening of seeds.

The spice grows better with sufficient light, in loose fertilized soil, loves good, but not excessive watering. Leaf and root parsley have their own characteristics. Leaf parsley has a thin and highly branched root. What is the difference between root parsley? With a fleshy cone-shaped root, it is more demanding on moisture and soil nutrition.

What can be planted next to it in open ground?

Garlic, onion. These plants saturate the soil with useful substances, after which they kill the pathogenic microflora.
Beans, peas. Legumes leave behind well-fertilized, nitrogen-rich soil.
Tomatoes, potatoes. Parsley loves phosphorus, which is often fertilized with nightshade. It takes root well in the beds where tomatoes and potatoes grew.
Pumpkin, zucchini. The roots of pumpkins and zucchini leave behind loose earth without pathogenic microbes, in which there is no risk of developing green infections.
Early white and cauliflower. After cabbage, enough remains in the ground organic matter to feed parsley.
Cucumbers, peppers. These vegetables belong to plants with a different root system than parsley, and will be good predecessors.
Mustard. Mustard renews and normalizes depleted soil. After mustard, the earth is suitable for any greenery, including parsley.

Umbrella (dill, celery, cumin, cilantro, fennel, coriander). The umbrella family has the same mineral requirements. After plants of its own species, parsley is deficient in nutrition, worsens appearance and taste of seasonings. In the place where umbrella plants grew, it is permissible to plant parsley only after four years.
Carrot. In addition to the fact that carrots belong to the umbrella family, its diseases are dangerous for parsley. spice plant It is affected by pests of carrots, which include carrot psyllid, celery fly, umbrella moth, carrot fly.
Other greens (sorrel, lettuce, basil). The root system of different greens consumes trace elements from the same soil level. Therefore, these plants will not be suitable precursors for parsley.

For root parsley, in addition to the listed crops, it is undesirable to choose other root crops with a similar type of structure and root nutrition as predecessors: beets, radishes, turnips.

What can be grown after greenery next year?

What is impossible?

What is not permissible to plant after this plant the next year?

Carrot. After parsley, conditions are created in the soil for the reproduction of pests of carrots, moreover, parsley as a predecessor can spoil its taste.
Greens, sorrel. It is not recommended to plant other greens after parsley, especially umbrella ones, because they belong to the same species and have a similar root system.

After root parsley, in addition to the listed crops, you should not plant other root crops - beets, radishes, turnips.

Is it permissible to grow in one place for several years?

Leaf parsley for greens can be grown in one place for several years. On the small areas for home use it reproduces by self-seeding. But with the constant cultivation of crops in one place, the land gradually becomes poorer, and the quality of greenery deteriorates. Under such conditions, parsley diseases are activated - rust, powdery mildew, white rot, cercosporosis. If the spice is damaged by diseases and pests, the place should be changed in accordance with the recommendations of the crop rotation.

When growing root parsley to obtain root crops, it is not recommended to plant it in the same place the next year. Root crops consume more minerals and deplete the soil more. A change of place is also necessary for the prevention of pests and possible diseases.

It will be possible to return parsley back to the same place in four years.

Planting on one bed

Is it possible to plant greens next to cilantro, carrots, garlic, strawberries, onions, sorrel, cucumbers?

What is possible?

Important! When planting root parsley with other root crops and bulbs, it is necessary to maintain a sufficient distance between the rows of plants so that there is room for the development of root crops.

What is impossible?

Umbrella. Parsley does not get along with plants of its own species - cilantro, celery, cumin, dill.
Cabbage. Parsley can protect cabbage from slugs if planted along the edge of the bed at a sufficient distance. But the cabbage itself does not like parsley, so you should not plant it between the rows.
Sorrel. Parsley and others spices badly affect the growth and development of sorrel.
Cabbage salad. Salad is not friendly with parsley, it is better to avoid this neighborhood.

Parsley grows well on the edge of the beds. So she gets enough sunlight, and her smell protects the main crop from diseases, slugs and ants.

Parsley is friendly to most plants and doesn't require much hassle to grow. The spicy scent repels pests, making it a useful garden companion. By following the simple rules of parsley compatibility with other crops, you can avoid soil depletion, reduce plant disease, improve the taste and yield of this famous spice.

Beets were brought to us, back in the days Kievan Rus from Byzantium. It contains many useful substances: carbohydrates, vitamins, minerals, trace elements, organic acids, amino acids, fiber. In the southwestern regions of Russia, in Belarus and Ukraine, the plant is called beetroot or beetroot. This crop is grown everywhere, and not one garden can do without it. To get a rich harvest, you need to take into account some points, and most importantly, find out with what to plant beets in one garden, and with what it is not recommended. So about all this further in the material.

Beet (beet)

Features of growing beets

The plant is unpretentious and cold-resistant, which grows well on loose, rich in organic matter, soils. Beets do not tolerate thickened seedings and shaded areas. Seeds of this culture begin to germinate at temperatures above 4 degrees, shoots can endure short-term frosts down to -0.5-1 degrees, and adult root crops - up to -2 degrees. Optimum temperature plant growth and development - 15-25 degrees. At temperatures below 8 degrees, their growth practically stops.

Please note: If the summer is cold and damp, then already in the first year of life, flower-bearing stems appear, which drastically reduces the yield.

Compared to other plants, beets are fairly drought tolerant. Temporary lack of moisture in the upper layers of the soil transfers, thanks to a powerful, deeply penetrating, root system.

During long dry seasons, the root crop requires watering, but excess moisture and proximity ground water are unfavorable for him. So, in such conditions, beets should be planted on ridges.

Where are beets grown?

The most suitable for it are loamy soils, with a neutral or slightly acidic reaction, well seasoned with organic fertilizers.

Planting beets

The plant's need for trace elements is not very great and, as a rule, is satisfied by their reserves in the soil. Moreover, however, a lack of iron, magnesium, manganese - leads to chlorosis of plants, and a lack of copper - to decay.

Reference! Table beet does not tolerate repeated crops.

Burak can be sown both in spring and autumn before winter. For the second option, at the end of October-beginning of November, special cold-resistant varieties should be selected that do not shoot for a long time.

In the spring, beets are sown one to two weeks later than carrots.

With what to plant beets in the garden?

In order to start p, you should consider several factors:

Root systems need to be compatible with each other. Ideally, they should be located on various levels soil;
There must be habit compatibility;
You need to make sure that the requirements for the composition and acidity of the soil are the same.

You can plant beets with the following crops:

Attention! A good result can show - growing beets, along the edge of the beds, with other crops (friendly). The main thing is that they do not shade the root crop.

What to plant with beets?

Also noticed by gardeners that you can plant beets with various varieties cabbages (broccoli, kohlrabi, cauliflower, as well as daikon, asparagus and beans) that are well compatible with this crop.

Spinach, grown together with beets, is able to stimulate its growth.

Attention! As a compactor of beet plantings, they showed themselves perfectly: different varieties lettuce, parsley, dill, marjoram, coriander.

Also, it works great on cucumbers, potatoes and cabbage beans.

Beets can be grown next to carrots

Is the fit too tight? Then the carrots can easily take root and not interfere with each other.

Also, it is well compatible with garden strawberries.

Neutrally interacts with tomatoes.

What can't be planted?

Due to the ability of beets to accumulate nematodes in the soil, beets are not recommended to be planted after the following crops:

As an undesirable neighbor, which can negatively affect the planting of beets, are:

weaving beans;
rhubarb;
corn;
potato;
mustard;
chives.

Attention! The corn will greatly shade the beets, which will make them lack light. The fruits will develop poorly, remain small.

Growing beets in one place should be carried out no more than once every three to four years.

Video: Growing beets along the edge of the garden

Conclusion

As a result, it is worth saying that beets are a very useful root crop. It is useful both in raw and boiled form - in which it loses little useful substances.

But moreover, this culture cannot be used by people who have stomach problems. For starters, you should consult your doctor. And also, it is dangerous in diabetes, for the reason that beets can increase blood sugar.

In the spring, when the location of the ridges in the garden is just being planned, it is necessary to choose the right compatible crops in order to plant them nearby. After all, almost every gardener was faced with insufficient harvesting for unknown reasons. And the reason for this behavior of vegetables is the incompatibility of plants planted together. So with what to plant peas in one garden?

Conditions for growing peas

Peas are the most common vegetable in the legume family. Its feature is quite high content protein, according to this indicator it is equivalent to meat products. Truth, human body absorbs vegetable protein much faster and better. In addition, each pea contains great amount useful minerals and vitamins.

To cultivate a crop, you need to choose a well-lit place in your garden away from drafts. For growing a plant, plots of land near a fence or wall of a building are perfect. The legume tolerates partial shade well, but for higher yields, its stems and leaves must be lit from all sides.

To achieve good harvest peas, you must follow a few rules for its cultivation:

plant seed material in well-moistened soil;
water in a timely and plentiful manner;
choose slightly alkaline soil for planting;
consider the compatibility of peas with other crops.

Pea cultivation

Cultural compatibility: what is it?

According to experienced gardeners and agronomists, some crops cannot be planted side by side, as the neighborhood can lead to their death. For example, a tomato can suppress a cucumber, beans have a detrimental effect on onion. At the same time, it is necessary to take into account favorable conditions for some plants, for example, peas will be friends with potatoes or carrots. Growing vegetables this way has a number of advantages:

Rational use of the land area.
Obtaining sufficiently high yields due to the compaction of plantings of vegetables, different ripening times.
Thanks to a rational approach, vegetable crops can be obtained from early spring to late autumn.
Farming plants with similar care and nutrient requirements will help reduce soil depletion in any one element.
co-cultivation compatible plants increase their productivity.

Are peas compatible with other crops

Most gardeners cultivate peas without allocating a separate place for them under the ridge. As usual, it is planted on the same ridge along with other vegetable crops.

Important! It turns out that peas are able to saturate the soil with nitrogen, which is extremely useful for growing crops nearby.

What to plant next to peas

Because the root system legume has a rather impressive length, it is able to get various nutrients from the depths of the earth, part is given to plants growing in the neighborhood. So with what can you plant peas in one garden?

Bean neighbors in the garden can safely be: cucumbers, carrots, potatoes, radishes, corn, beans and herbs.

Peas and strawberries - crop compatibility in the open field

Strawberries are harmless crops. After all, its root system is so small that it does not interfere with the development of the roots of neighboring plants. Therefore, by planting peas next to this berry, you can achieve high yield both cultures.

Peas and strawberries

Zucchini compatibility

Peas will get along well on the same bed with zucchini. As you know, zucchini needs a huge amount of nutrients. And who, if not peas, will help in obtaining them and get them to the very depths of the soil.

with cabbage

Cabbage is a great neighbor for many garden plants. That is why for its landing you can find a piece of land on any personal plot. And by planting peas and cabbage on the same ridge, you can achieve amazingly high yields of both crops. And also plants of the cabbage family protect the roots of legumes from putrefactive diseases.

with potatoes

According to agronomists, it is necessary to throw a pea into the hole along with potatoes. After all, peas contribute to the yield of potatoes, so from planting one bucket you can get up to eight buckets of crops.

Important! In addition to increasing yields, peas protect potatoes from the Colorado potato beetle. This will eliminate the use of chemicals.

with carrots

One of the most beloved neighbors of peas is carrots. With the help of tops, it is able to repel various insect pests.

With beets

Peas and beets are excellent "friends". And of course, they can and should be planted on the same ridge. Such a neighborhood will eliminate the need to tie up a legume. It will be perfectly supported by a fairly high beet tops.

Planting peas with beets

with garlic

But from garlic legume best to plant as far away as possible. After all, under his influence, peas will grow very slowly, and the amount of the crop will become very small.

With tomatoes

Tomatoes get along very poorly with plants of the legume family. Such a neighborhood will adversely affect the development and productivity of both plants.

with corn

With corn, you can plant all climbing plants, as it will become an excellent support for them. For example, peas can be sown along the perimeter of a ridge with corn.

But in addition to plants that are useful and compatible with peas, there are many that cannot be planted next to it. These plants include onions, garlic and tomatoes.

Corn next to peas

Peas with cucumbers in a greenhouse

After planting cucumbers in a greenhouse, it often turns out that there is free space. Cultivating a lot of cucumbers is not always convenient and correct, and most gardeners simply do not need so many. That is why it is necessary for them to choose the most convenient neighbor who will not interfere with the growth and development of the vegetable.

It's no secret that cucumbers are voluminous plants that take up a lot of space. After all, their vines can reach three meters in length. AT greenhouse conditions they must be tied to the trellis, as the humidity in the greenhouses is too high and they will start to rot. Due to the garter of cucumbers in the greenhouse, a lot of free space is freed up.

Important! Before choosing a neighbor for a cucumber, you need to carefully study what kind of moisture and feeding the future neighbor needs. Needs must match exactly.

One of the most suitable crops for cucumbers is peas and other legumes. Their needs are absolutely identical, it is thanks to this that you can get a huge crop of greens.

Compatibility of beans with other plants

The ideal compatibility of plants is the ability of each of the companions to suppress each other's diseases, drive away insect pests, and also attract the insects they need with their data.

Important! During the laying of the garden, it is necessary to place vegetable crops so that plants of the same family are as far apart as possible. Otherwise, they will simply destroy each other.

The best companions for beans will be: sunflower, cucumbers, corn, cabbage of all kinds, strawberries, tomatoes and zucchini.

But next to fennel, garlic, onions and peas, beans should not be planted. Since these plants inhibit bean bushes during growth, preventing it from developing properly.

Growing vegetables together is sometimes necessary to designate planting sites for seeds that germinate long enough. For example, in a bed of carrots, rows of carrots can be identified with lettuce seeds planted along the edges of each row.

The best neighbor for all garden crops is cilantro or coriander. They prevent the growth and formation of only fennel.

On a note! Cilantro is the only plant that can fight fennel.

Carrots just need to be planted next to onions. It turns out that carrots can repel pests that destroy onions. Conversely, onions repel carrot pests. For carrots to develop well, they must be sown between rows of radishes. After all, the radish ripens before it begins to form the root of the carrot. This condition is great for growing root parsley.

Blackcurrant planted in the garden will get rid of the invasion of mice and other rodents.

In no case should you use seeds for sowing collected from mixed beds.

Cucumbers will not give a good harvest if they are planted in the same bed with basil.

Near the peas, you can plant a lot of different cultivated plants. And which of them contributes better growth plants are up to the gardener to decide. The article shows that peas are well compatible with other crops.

The compatibility of plants with each other is probably the most topical issue gardeners, because our harvest will depend on the proximity of plants to each other.

Now there is such a science as allelopathy. It's funny, but in Greek, this word means joint suffering. Those. in fact, it is the science of how plants can mutually influence each other - oppressing some and helping others. It turns out that in nature, plants behave in the same way as people.

Below I give an excerpt from the book of B.V. Bublik - a well-known agronomist in Russia on organic farming - "Melange Garden"

Watermelons. Watermelon is a good companion for potatoes, oat root. Corn and peas improve the growth and taste of watermelons. Contribute to the growth of watermelons sow thistle and gauze.

Eggplant. Helps eggplant grow healthy amaranth (of course, in small quantities). The beans keep the Colorado potato beetle away. The space between the eggplants (rather extensive) can be successfully used for a salad. It is useful to surround the eggplant with basil. Tarragon and thyme can help in the fight against flea (in a pinch, infusions).

Okra. Okra is a strong, tall plant, the stem is fibrous (okra is one of the types of jute), and okra bushes can be left in the garden in the winter, and peas can be planted in the spring to the finished trellis. It is good to plant peppers, eggplants, melons, cucumbers with okra.

Peas. Peas are a great company for almost all vegetables (potatoes, tomatoes, carrots, turnips, radishes, cucumbers, corn, beans) and aromatic herbs. The exception is all sorts of bows and gladioli. Cabbage plants prevent root rot in peas. Lettuce, spinach and even eggplant grow well in the shade of peas.

Melons. Potatoes inhibit the growth of melons and can cause them to wilt. The close proximity of cucumbers is harmful to melons - they can mutually pollinate, and both will become bitter. Help melons grow radishes and gauze.

Cabbage. Although different types of cabbage (cabbage, broccoli, cauliflower, Brussels sprouts, kohlrabi) grow and develop differently, their problems and their behavior in phytocenoses are similar. Cabbage butterflies are driven away from cabbage by celery, thyme, hyssop, wormwood. The neighborhood of aromatic herbs (dill, chamomile, mint, sage), various types of onions (turnips, shallots, batun, chaivis, leeks), and beans are useful for cabbage. Compatible cabbage with potatoes. This is some kind of mysticism, explainable only by allelopathy (this time - “good”): such a tight, tasty and clean cabbage, as planted between the rows of potatoes after hilling, simply did not have to be seen. "Not to your liking" cabbage strawberries and tomatoes. She herself oppresses the grapes. Cauliflower "does not like" the neighborhood of cucumbers and beets, as well as tall plants that shade it.

Potato. Many plants can make a useful company for potatoes: beans, beets, corn, lettuce, radishes, coriander, nasturtium, flax, tansy, catnip, horseradish, amaranth. But the potato has an affectionate "companion" - the Colorado potato beetle. Therefore, we single out among the possible neighbors those who can help the potato in this trouble. Well protects potatoes from the Colorado horseradish beetle. But horseradish is extremely aggressive - its roots can stretch many meters deep and wide, and it can grow from any piece of root. There is no such organization of joint planting of potatoes and horseradish that would save the garden from clogging with horseradish. Something similar can be said about tansy with catnip. They are also expansive (they tend to expand their territory) and cannot be planted along with potatoes. But infusions of tansy and catnip can be successfully used against the beetle. An infusion of catnip contains the poison nepetakton, which is detrimental to the larvae. Delphinium infusion has the same property. Legumes provide some protection against the beetle. Seeds of peas and beans (and even heat-loving beans) can simply be thrown into the hole when planting potatoes and then, as it were, forgotten about them. Repel the beetle (unfortunately, slightly) coriander, nasturtium, flax. They can be sown at random, but it is still better with south side rows: they will cover the soil near the potato bushes and protect the roots from unwanted overheating. Marigolds are also unpleasant for the beetle, but they are allelopathic enough to be good company for potatoes. Since the beetle finds potatoes by smell, basil can be confusing. In the fight against the beetle, you can use trap plants. If there is extra seedlings, you can plant eggplants on potatoes - rarely, bushes after 20. Beetles are lured by this plant, which is more tasty for them, and it is easier to collect them here. Datura and belladonna (Belladonna) are even more graceful in this role. Female beetles lay their eggs on these nightshades, and the larvae literally find themselves in a trap: the leaves are deadly poisonous for them, and they are unable to change the plant, and they don’t want to. True, the creation of these traps is a rather troublesome task: to prepare seeds, in right time and sow them in the right place (or even better, grow seedlings), and then protect yourself from self-sowing. If the garden is not flooded with pesticides, then birds - titmouse, finches, robins, thrushes, nuthatches, orioles can provide significant assistance in the fight against the beetle. Effective in the fight against the beetle, an infusion of walnut leaves is available (and recommended by many manuals). But the yuglon poison contained in them is very resistant, unlike the nepetacton or the curare-like delphinium poison. Of course, if we “live alone”, then you can water the garden with juglone. But then it's even "better" to sprinkle with DDT.
Another serious misfortune for potatoes is late blight. A plant that can help potatoes in the fight against late blight is garlic. Not only by itself, as a neighbor, but also as a source of raw materials for the infusion. Some plants, on the contrary, help late blight. Weaken the ability of potatoes to resist the disease growing in the neighborhood of raspberries and, of course, tomatoes. Sunflowers, pumpkins, zucchini, and cucumbers can all be home to late blight, although they don't suffer from it themselves.
Potato promotes the growth of cauliflower, broccoli, cabbage, Chinese cabbage, bow. Apple trees and potatoes have a bad effect on each other: ripening apples inhibit the growth of potatoes, and that (in retaliation, or what?) Prevents the absorption of phosphorus and nitrogen by apple trees. Bad in the neighborhood with turnip potatoes and pumpkin.

Onion. Luka is good in company with different type cabbages. He also likes onions, strawberries, tomatoes, lettuce, savory and (in small quantities) chamomile and petunia. Perennial bows (batun, chayvis) are good in circles near roses. The neighborhood of carrots and potatoes is especially useful for onions. Brilliant company - borage, thistle, nettle. Bad - peas, sage, beans, gladios. Bow drillers don't like it.

Carrot. All kinds of onions, garlic, oat root are good with carrots, dill and anise are bad. Flowering (seed) carrots attract beneficial insects. It is not necessary to plant carrots near an apple tree - both carrots and apples will be bitter.
Oat root. The oat root repels the onion fly, so its seeds can be mixed with carrot seeds (also repelling the onion fly) and sown in rows interspersed with onions.

cucumbers. Cucumbers are very good together with corn. Corn protects cucumbers from bacterial wilt, and together they drive away ants. The neighborhood of beans, peas, radishes, kohlrabi, cabbage, lettuce, celery, cauliflower, sunflowers favorably affects cucumbers. You can sow a few radish seeds around the cucumber hole and forget about it. Let it grow and bloom for itself, let harmful insects (cucumber beetle, for example) scare away, useful insects attract. Some weeds add energy to cucumbers: quinoa, gauze, sow thistle, tansy. The neighborhood of tall plants that give a light shade is useful for cucumbers. Shiritsa sacrificially entices the caterpillars that gnaw the roots.

Parsnip. An infusion of parsnip leaves and roots is an excellent spray against many insects. It is both a repellent and an insecticide (it can not only repel, but also kill insects). Parsnips themselves have almost no problems with pests and diseases. Parsnip is frost-resistant and can overwinter in the soil. Flowering (in the second year) parsnips are attractive to beneficial insects. He is a good companion for radishes. Peas and other legumes help him grow.

Pepper. Pepper is good with basil - they render mutual services to each other. Pepper gets along well with okra, which shelters the fragile stems of pepper from the wind, and the fruits from the sun. Aphids from pepper can be repelled by onions, tansy, coriander, catnip, marigolds. You can use nasturtium as a trap. It is advisable to avoid proximity to beans, which, like peppers, are affected by anthracnose (black soft spots appear on the fruits).

Tomatoes. When creating companies with tomatoes, one must keep in mind both potato (and tomato too) enemies: the Colorado potato beetle and late blight. The beetle, however, is not so scary. He attacks tomatoes rarely, in case of obvious provocation. To do this, for example, you need to plant tomatoes next to potatoes - then the beetle will easily move from drying potato tops to tomatoes. Or is it necessary that it’s just unlucky and during the drying of potato tops on potato beds a steady wind blew from the tomatoes. Late blight is worse. When are created ideal conditions for late blight epiphytosis - it inevitably comes. Of course, something can be achieved by prevention, for example, by blowing through the “bottom”. But more often you have to resort to spraying - garlic infusion or biological products (phytosporin, EM-5, etc.). Tomatoes are compatible with carrots, parsley, onions, garlic, chaivis, borage and many flowers, in particular, with space. Garlic protects tomatoes from spider mites. Basil improves the growth and taste of tomatoes, increases their resistance to diseases, and repels the horned worm. Stinging and deaf nettles improve the taste and growth of tomatoes (you can make an infusion of nettle tops to feed tomatoes). In small quantities, amaranth is useful. Tomato leaves contain solanine, and an infusion of the leaves can be used to protect roses and gooseberries from black spot. Root secretions of tomatoes are harmful to apricots. Do not plant corn and tomatoes next to each other.

Beet. Beets grow well with onions, carrots, lettuce, radishes, and any cabbage except cauliflower. She is not harmed by some shading, which, for example, Brussels sprouts can give. Curly beans and mustard are unpleasant for beets as neighbors. Sprinkling beets with infusions of mint or catnip, you can rid it of a flea. The flea, however, brings beets only "cosmetic" damage. Worse with aphids. If aphid colonies have appeared on the beets, they can cause noticeable damage to it. Infusions of mint and catnip are suitable against aphids, but more effective is a decoction of rhubarb leaves or garlic infusion. Especially carefully it is necessary to look after the beets, growing next to Brussels sprouts, adored by aphids more than all vegetables. By the way, some birds like aphids - sparrows, titmouse, finches, nuthatch.

Celery. Celery grows well with leeks, tomatoes, cabbage, bush beans. Earthworms like to gather in the roots of celery: to encourage them, you can sow celery in a circle, creating a semblance of a house for the worms. Celery loves shade. In it, it grows more fragrant.

Soy. Like all legumes, soybeans loosen and enrich the soil. Suppresses weeds. Grows well with many plants, in particular wheat. Corn benefits greatly from the company of soy. Soy repels corn bugs. Volatile substances released by soybean leaves stimulate the absorption of phosphorus by corn. And with the help of nodule bacteria, soybeans feed corn with nitrogen.

Pumpkin. Pumpkin grows well with corn. The radish planted around the hole helps the pumpkin fight pests. Good in this role and nasturtium. Contribute to better growth of gauze, quinoa, sow thistle (of course, not in debilitating quantities).
Beans. Beans are good with a little celery. It grows wonderfully with cucumbers, intertwining with them to mutual pleasure. Useful beans in strawberries. She helps corn, pumpkin. The radish company is mutually beneficial. Carrots help beans grow. A wonderful pair is formed by beans and savory. Both have an improved taste, pests do not find their way to them. curly beans bad with beets, kohlrabi, sunflowers. All onions and gladioli oppress the beans.

Garlic. Unusually good garlic in a companion garden. It repels slugs, all kinds of caterpillars, even moles. Garlic makes an excellent universal infusion, effective in the fight against aphids, spider mites, late blight. It saves cucumbers, radishes, spinach, beans from some fungal diseases. Mistresses have long been putting garlic cloves in grain, flour, and cereals. It is good to surround fruit trees with garlic, protecting them from borers, and roses, protecting them from black spot. Garlic grows magnificently in the company of many plants (even with a very allelopathic vetch!). An irreplaceable neighbor for strawberries, which suffer more than others from slugs. And only peas and beans with garlic are bad - it inhibits their growth.

Spices
Here we will talk about herbs that are good both on the table and in the garden. They add taste and aroma to food, plants - energy and resistance to pests and diseases, soil - fertility, vegetables - harvest, garden - beauty.

Basil. If we talk about spices in our gardens and start not with basil, God will not forgive. What other herb is so beautiful - what does it taste, what does it smell, what does it look like?
And yet, basil is interesting not only from a culinary and aesthetic point of view. It also carries some "social" burdens. Drives away the horned worm from tomatoes and corn. Keeps ants away. A crushed basil leaf is the best (and most enjoyable) mosquito repellant. Basil grows very well with sweet pepper, poorly with rue. Adds energy to neighboring plants. Repels aphids and ticks from them. Embarrassing Colorado potato beetle. Disperses flies in the kitchen.

Oregano and marjoram. Oregano (mother) and its cultural analogue marjoram are good both in the kitchen and in the garden. They have a persistent pungent smell, reminiscent of the smell of thyme. All plants near oregano and marjoram are good: both growth and taste improve. The neighborhood with them is especially useful for cabbage: they drive away the cabbage butterfly.

snakehead. The snakehead (Turkish mint) owes its name to the seeds - black, flattened, with two white specks. It, like basil, attracts and shelters beneficial insects, protects plants from pests. As for his behavior in companies, we can say that observations of the snakehead for ten years have not yet given reason to believe that someone is ill with him.
Due to the "ankles" snakehead can give support and favorable shade to cucumbers.

Hyssop. Not everyone likes the camphor smell of hyssop, so it may seem out of place in salads. But for the treatment of various diseases of the respiratory system - chronic cough, bronchitis, bronchial asthma - it is indispensable (used as an infusion). For this alone, you can find a place for him. It is to find it, because hyssop, unfortunately, is expansive and over time it can become larger than we would like. Hyssop attracts bees and repels many pests. Increases grape yield. It is bad for radishes and radishes near hyssop.

Coriander. Coriander has a lot of virtues. It is very useful for anise: it improves seed germination, improves growth, increases the size of umbrellas. Promotes the growth of cumin rosettes (in the first year). Well repels aphids from the plants she adores. It blooms luxuriously and attracts a lot of beneficial insects.
Coriander is a good neighbor for almost all plants. He only oppresses

fennel. And rightly so this "bully", from which it is bad, consider, to the whole garden.
And finally, the most important advantage of coriander (from a social point of view): it can be sown anywhere (and at any time). And in the garden with wintering coriander, you can plant and sow any crops directly on the "stubble", without digging: the soil is so carefully "plowed" by its roots.

Mint. Mint is a favorite of the convivial garden. Its strong, pungent odor repels pests. In the neighborhood with it, the growth and taste of cabbage and tomatoes improves. Flowers attract beneficial insects. Mint gives a unique aroma to lamb meat, egg, pea, potato dishes. One trouble with mint is a tendency to unrestrained expansion of the occupied area. So it is necessary to choose a place for her with some caution. It is more difficult to “string” mint in the garden than to start it on the window: dig up the rhizomes in a deep enough autumn, put them in a box, cover them with soil by 3-4 cm, carefully water and feast on them all winter.
Mint is suitable for fungicidal solutions.

Borage. Borage (borage) stimulates the growth of many plants, especially strawberries. Just keep in mind that the borage bush grows over time and must be cut off or removed altogether if it begins to strongly obscure other plants. Increases in its presence the resistance of plants to diseases. Borage is also known as an indispensable tool in the fight against cabbage caterpillars.

Parsley. The role of parsley in an intensive vegetable garden is significant. The neighborhood of parsley gives health to tomatoes and improves their taste. Parsley rosettes cover the soil well under tall plants and enliven the flower landscape. It is useful to “ring” whimsical roses with parsley.
Blooming second-year parsley provides shelter and food for a host of beneficial insects. You can keep the "extra" flowering parsley bushes in the garden, but, in order to avoid self-seeding, send them to the compost heap when the seeds begin to ripen. Usually the parsley that gave the seeds dries out.
From carrot flies, which can bother parsley, as well as slugs, you can protect yourself with leeks. A wonderful, technologically compatible company. In summer, leeks cover the parsley from the sun. Both cultures (at least partially) remain to winter in the ground. They should be covered with light mulch, opened early in the spring and cut early greens from both.
The joint planting of parsley and leek is organized as follows. As soon as work in the garden becomes possible, parsley is sown in ribbons 5-6 cm wide with row spacing of 30 cm. And after a couple of weeks, 10-week seedlings of leeks are planted in the aisles - and the bed is formed. Until the parsley sprouts, you need to keep the bed clean, let the soil warm up, and then mulch and no longer bother with a chopper until next spring. You may need to pull out weeds that have broken through the mulch from time to time.
Parsley is chock-full of vitamin E. It's hard to name a dish that it could spoil. And among the Caucasians, famous for their longevity and "agility", a table is simply unthinkable without fragrant parsley sprigs.

Watercress. This herb is an even more obligatory spice on the Caucasian table than parsley. The ease of growing watercress is beyond anything imaginable. It is enough to scatter the seeds, and you may not have time to sprinkle them - they sprout so quickly. But seriously, it takes him two or three days to germinate.
As a culture for companies, watercress does not deserve good words. It oppresses (and this is not a folklore, but a scientific fact!) the shoots of many cultures, even the wiki that knows how to hit back. It is bad in the neighborhood with him and the plants that have already appeared. So it is necessary to sow watercress separately

Ruta. Rue is at odds with basil. And roses and raspberries are a good protector from pests. The only trouble with rue is that its leaves can burn the skin when it is in bloom. If trouble happens, you need to wash your hands with soap and grease with vegetable oil.
Ruta grows well with almost all flowers, vegetables, shrubs and trees. At the compost heap and around the household yard helps to get rid of flies.
Rue has an unusual, but very useful property: if your beloved cat likes to scratch your favorite furniture, then you need to rub the places accessible to the cat on the furniture with rue leaves. And the furniture will be intact, and the cat "will not work."

Dill. About dill, right, everyone knows everything. But there is one misconception, which, when discussing the sociable properties of plants, it must be said. Usually dill grows anywhere, self-seeding. Some gardeners do not even sow it at all, but manage with shoots of carrion, carefully bypassing them when weeding. This is what you shouldn't do. Many plants (especially potatoes, carrots, tomatoes) do not like the neighborhood of dill. It significantly inhibits their growth, reduces the yield. Reduces significantly, clearly. It is strange that many gardeners do not see this.
Dill also has friends. In the neighborhood with him, cabbage grows better and tastier. Not bad for onions, lettuce, cucumbers. Cucumbers are especially useful shade from dill. Dill umbrellas are very tempting for beneficial insects.

Fennel. Folklore is unknown to plants - friends of fennel. But this does not mean that he has no place in the garden. It attracts and harbors so many useful insects that it can compete with such "temptors" as tansy, angelica (angelica), goldenrod. It can only yield to katran, but katran blooms for only two weeks, and fennel for several months. It blooms even after the first frosts, when the fennel's brother, dill, has already drooped under the onslaught of cold. This refers to the dill sown for the fall, and not the dill of the spring "call" - this has long since gone cold.
It is necessary to sow fennel in the garden, it is very necessary, only a place for it - a ruffy one - should be chosen isolated, without neighbors.

Sage. Sage is indispensable near cabbage - cabbage gives taste and juiciness, but pests do not like it. Sage with carrots is good (the carrot fly cannot stand it). But sage is contraindicated for cucumbers.

Thyme. Thyme grows not only in the garden. He creeps into wild nature, on sunny slopes. It is better to propagate it not by seeds, but by dividing the rhizomes.
Young leaves and shoots are used like any other edible herb. Dried thyme makes an excellent tea. Fragrant bath with a decoction of thyme. You can grow thyme in any corner of the garden. It is a weak eater, grows slowly and does not compete with anyone for light or nutrients. Improves the taste of vegetables, repels pests, attracts bees, hoverflies and other beneficial insects. An excellent companion for eggplants, potatoes, tomatoes.
Some crops can be sprayed with thyme decoction: it masks the “native” smell. Information about cabbage is contradictory: the neighborhood with thyme is useful for cabbage itself, but the smell of thyme does not frighten its pests. Good "carpet" of thyme under roses, anise, corn.

Chaivis. Also called spring onion, chives, chives, this fragrant onion is good because it delivers a tender, non-roughening feather from snow to snow. Decorates salads and various dishes. The taste of his feather is softer than the feather of a turnip.
Chaivis is good in companies with carrots, tomatoes, roses, grapes. A circle of chaivis around an apple tree will protect it from scab, and around a rose - from black spot. But, like garlic (and all onions in general), it is a poor companion for peas and beans. Chaivis infusion can be prevented powdery mildew on cucumbers and gooseberries.
You can easily plant chaivis on the windowsill for forcing fresh herbs in winter: with the onset of cold weather, dig out the required number of bunches, cut them 4-5 cm from the beginning of the roots, hold for 3-4 weeks in the cellar, simulating hibernation, then separate the bunches, easily trim the roots , hold them in hot water and put in a box. It is necessary to collect greens by cutting the whole plants at a level of 4-5 cm above the ground. And in no case do not pinch the feathers - the remaining parts will turn yellow, and the plant will hurt.

Technological crops
Technological here are called crops, often called green manure. It so happened that plowed green fertilizers were always called green manure. And the "fertilizing" function of these crops is far from the most important. More important functions are the protection of the soil during the off-season from rain and wind, the improvement of soil structure, the growth of biomass for compost and mulch ... In the first place is, of course, loosening the soil.

Vika. If suddenly there was no buckwheat in the world, then Vika would not have to ask “My light, mirror, tell me ...” - she would undoubtedly be the best technological culture.
The main and invaluable advantage of the wiki is the creation of amazing soil. It not only loosens and adds organic matter to the soil. By fixing free nitrogen, it enriches the soil with nitrogen compounds available to plants. There is a lot of phosphorus in the tissues of the wiki.
When the vetch blooms, all kinds of pollinating insects swarm around it. It provides shelter for ground beetles (ground beetles) and spiders. It is not necessary, of course, to endure a careful attitude towards the ground beetle to a similar to her kravchik, capable of cutting more than one strawberry bush “under Kotovsky”. Kravchik is noticeably lobaste than the ground beetle and has a shearing apparatus resembling the "claws" of a snowplow. Fortunately, the fight against the kravchik is not difficult: it is enough early in the morning or late in the evening to pour boiling water over its mink (with a fresh ejection of soil).
Beds sown with winter vetch can be planted in spring under heat-loving crops. Bearing in mind the allelopathic nature of the wiki (including the “post-mortem”), it must be planted in the soil 3-4 weeks before planting and allowed to “ferment”. The soil will become loose, structural, rich nutrients. It should only be taken into account that, while ripening, the vetch “shoots” the seeds for many meters around, and then they sprout for several years.
A vetch prone to lodging needs some kind of "nanny" for whose hem the vetch could hold on. Usually, for this, it is sown with oats (spring) or rye (autumn). As already mentioned, vetch is allelopathic, but don’t put your finger in your mouth with oats and rye either. Of course, the vetch would grow better without these neighbors, but then it would die and rot. However, if the winter vetch is embedded in the soil in the spring, then there is no need for support.
There was a case when barley was sown in the spring to the winter vetch, which was left without support (there was no rye at hand). Vika allowed him to climb, catch up with her (she grows slowly), and then crushed her. To death. She didn’t take away the light - the barley was already higher, she didn’t starve - the “food” in the soil would be enough for both of them, but simply poisoned with root secretions. At that time I had heard a lot about allelopathy, but I did not think that it was so serious. Now I understand that the cultures that support vetch are sown with it at the same time and manage to gain the necessary strength to resist it. But young barley plants did not cope with vetch.
There was another confusion. Once I gave way to peppers a bed with vetch already in the days of planting peppers, losing sight of the “ruffiness” of vetch. The vetch embedded in the soil did not have time to clear itself, and the peppers stood in vain until the fall - they did not even grow decent tops.
It is a pity that such a valuable plant is so aggressive. If we take into account that a vetch cut in bloom dies, then how much interesting companies could be created with it. But, in the end, Vika does not eat her bread for nothing. No plant can compare with her in creating and protecting the soil during the long off-season.

Buckwheat. It's a shame: such an unusual plant also has a serious drawback - buckwheat is incredibly thermophilic. Even +4 (plus!) degrees is enough for her to turn sour if not to droop. This greatly hinders the creation of companies with buckwheat (also, however, allelopathic). Just wait out the possible spring frosts(and this is right up to June), as September is already on the nose. But still…
Buckwheat can be sown in any clearing formed in the summer. It suppresses weeds well, enriches the soil organic material, transfers phosphorus from forms inaccessible to other plants to available, lures bees, hoverflies and wasps from all around with nectar-rich flowers.
Excessive thermophilicity of buckwheat is fully compensated by its "agility". She manages to reach the required size and bloom well, even when sown after potatoes. And after garlic, peas, lettuce - give ripened seeds. This is very important, because buckwheat seeds cannot be obtained without the hassle.
Buckwheat is a good neighbor for cabbage. The buckwheat carpet around the cabbage camouflages it, confusing butterflies, scoops and moths, and the cabbage becomes tastier and cleaner.

oats. A harmless-looking culture. But if you sow oats in the former raspberry forest, you can get rid of the inevitable raspberry growth.
Oats are very good as a technological crop. Sown at the end of summer, it will have time to build up a fairly rich biomass, loosen the soil and cover it for the winter. Until spring, the remains of oats will be washed out, get rid of harmful secretions, and the bed, enriched and loosened, will be ready.
accept any culture without digging.
An interesting incident took place. A neighbor, inclined to look at the land, once, after harvesting potatoes, sowed oats for grazing geese. And in the fall, pulling out a bunch of oats, she was amazed: “Is this my land?” So lumpy, beautiful, brownish, stuffed with earthworms, unrecognizable was the soil in a lump.
Oats are good as a "pioneer". If it is sown first on virgin lands or fallows, then the soil will be cleared of caterpillars of the May beetle, etc.

Wheat. Wheat is allelopathic, but not as prominent as rye. She can’t do anything with poppy seeds, bindweed, and bodyak that are harmful to her (rye would cope with them “on her left”). Chamomile helps wheat grow (in very small quantities). Close-growing tulips and sorghum are harmful.
Wheat straw is often used as mulch. Clean, bright, it is incomparable on strawberries.
By the way, English name strawberry is simply a "straw berry". This is how strawberries and straw “grown together”!
It is necessary, just in case, to avoid embedding straw (even former mulch) into the soil. It’s better to let it rot in a heap for a year, the harmful secretions will stop - then please. It has been established, for example, that if lettuce roots come into contact with straw that rots in the soil, the plant dries out. Such straw reduces seed germination (and yield) of corn by about half.

Rye. Here is another culture ready to "talk to the mirror". But it is not without a defect: it has a high allelopathic activity. In front of my eyes, she literally wiped off the face of the earth shoots of beets, lettuce, spinach, oat root, carrots. I used to be surprised at the cleanliness of the rye fields. And it was necessary, it turns out, to be surprised at the weed that survived in this field.
However, recently my friends struck me with an unusual (and unexpected) picture. As is customary in Ukraine, their potato plot was framed by strips of beets. After harvesting the potatoes, they sowed the plot with rye. By the end of autumn, she managed to wave almost to her knees - an emerald, and nothing more. But - almost a meter wide strips of rye near the beets looked like they were watered with roundup - undersized, withered. Mature beetroot did to rye what spring-grown rye did to young beetroot. Truly "mutual suffering"!
Rye has one valuable (if not priceless) quality: it kills the unattainable root nematode. It is enough to sow rye in the fall and plant it in the soil in the spring - the nematode will disappear.
If rye is left for grain, then it is very useful to have a small amount of chamomile in this bed - the ear will be fuller.
A small amount of rye will save strawberries from black rot, and onions from some fungal diseases. Rye flour helps to fight cabbage pests: powdering cabbage with flour dehydrates the caterpillars.
Finally, we must recall the main, integumentary function of rye. Together with and without vetch, it covers and binds the soil in the difficult autumn-winter period. If there is no need for seeds or grains of rye, in the spring you can plant it in the soil or remove it (along with the roots, just in case) into the compost heap. In the heap, this nitrogen supplement is more appropriate than in the soil (due to the “post-mortem” allelopathy).
With the help of rye, you can clear a plot littered with wheatgrass. It is enough to grow rye on it for two seasons in a row.

Chumiza. Chumiza (Italian millet) is my random find. The first time it was sown out of pure curiosity and - came to the court. It penetrates the entire arable layer with powerful root "balls". In one year, the soil becomes unrecognizable - granular, richly fertilized with roots.
An unusually productive crop. Ears can reach the size of a “rocking chair” of cattail (ocheret). Grain is an excellent feed for chickens. It is known that hens accustom chickens to different foods gradually - for example, they “pay attention” to earthworms only in the second week. So, they include chumizu in the diet of chickens from the first day.
The most valuable quality of chumiza, however, is its extraordinary ability to clear litter. In the neighborhood with her, only her closest relative, mice, survives. All other weeds are suppressed - even bindweed, which fears neither God nor the devil.
Chumiza has one defect - it is thermophilic. She has to give the garden for the whole summer. However, not in vain. Builds soil, kills weeds, provides straw for mulch and millet for chickens - quite a few...

Flowers

Only a few, the most popular flowers are considered here.

Marigold. Marigolds (tagetes) are just like that: all the fuss around them is to throw the seeds at the right time and in the right place, and then throw them into the compost heap in time or plant them in the soil. But in companies they are not so simple.
On the one hand, marigolds are an excellent means of combating root nematodes. Their roots attract the nematode, but it cannot reproduce in their environment. Dead end! Moreover, not only the roots are effective, but also the plants themselves embedded in the soil. Marigolds protect beans, cabbage, tomatoes, roses from pests. Do not like the Colorado potato beetle, aphids.
On the other hand, they are quite allelopathic, in particular, they inhibit the growth of beans and cabbage, which are protected from pests. Just like in the well-known rhyme "I will not let anyone offend my sister Lida ...".

Calendula. Calendula is a very widespread flower in our country. And he deserves it. It blooms profusely (if cut regularly) and for a long time, until severe frosts, it blooms, amusing the eyes for both us and beneficial insects.
Unfortunately, calendula is vulnerable to aphids. Well, let it serve as a trap, and the branches affected by aphids - a nitrogenous additive for the compost heap.
Calendula is easily sown, in addition to the will of the gardener. She should not be allowed this: she is a little allelopathic. Inhibits, for example, corn, watermelons, melons. In general, calendula is useful in some companies, because its pungent smell makes it difficult for pests to find their "breadwinners". It gives abundant biomass.

Space(kosmeya). You want to find something good in every plant, but you don’t even need to look in space. Just a perfect plant. Beautiful, graceful, harmless, with abundant but sparse, feathery foliage and pretty, unpretentious flowers. Cosmos is prone to self-seeding - and thank God. Let him grow where he pleases. It is attractive to bees and other beneficial insects that find nectar in flowers and shelter in branches.
Fragile branches can break under their own weight - also good: you can stick a branch into moist soil and a new plant will grow in a week.
Cosmos can be sown at any time in any suitable place - for living mulch, for shade-hungry plants, for a bouquet. This is also such a flower that the more you cut, the more it grows. It is useful to pinch a young seedling - then the cosmos branches more strongly.
It sounds paradoxical, but - clog the garden with space, and it will become more alive in every sense of this capacious word.

Linen. Linen, of course, is a technical culture, but in the garden, flax is flowers, and therefore it is described here.
Flax was mentioned when listing plants that help potatoes in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. The beetle does not like the tannin secreted by the leaves and the smell of linseed oil in the ripening seeds. Flax is also good in company with carrots.
However, you should not get carried away with flax. Embarrassing the Colorado potato beetle is a sacred thing, but it is not necessary to sow flax anywhere - it is allelopathic.
There is decorative linen, red-leafed. He has larger flowers, he blooms until the frost, but there is no information that characterizes his behavior in companies.

Nasturtium. Aphids love nasturtium. Direct hint: you need to sow nasturtium next to crops that suffer damage from aphids, lure aphids into this trap, and then remove the lashes infected with aphids into a compost heap.
If you need nasturtium on its own, you can spray it with soapy water.
But other pests, such as the cabbage whitefly, do not like the smell of nasturtium. Nasturtium also protects beans, cucumbers, pumpkins. Many beneficial insects hunt for the nectar of nasturtium flowers.

Sunflower. The sunflower is described here for the same reason as flax. In the garden, it is not an industrial crop, it is grown mainly for fun.
So here's to the fun. The husk of sunflower seeds is poisonous, inhibits the growth of any plant, and it is not necessary to litter it in the garden. However, the sunflower itself is not a gift to neighbors.

Beans, pumpkins, cucumbers, corn, soybeans - these are all the crops that are good in the company of a sunflower. It is especially bad for tomatoes and potatoes. Moreover, it oppresses neighbors not only because it is allelopathic. It creates a thick shadow. In addition, it is reputed to be a glutton even among plants - strong eaters and literally eats up neighbors.
And, nevertheless, it is necessary to plant a sunflower in the garden, and not only for the sake of tradition. Attractiveness to bees, it can surpass even buckwheat. But the place for it must be chosen carefully enough, keeping in mind both the allelopathic nature and the gluttony of the sunflower. And to rarefy the shadow cast by him - break off the lower 6-7 leaves.

Zinnias. Zinnias are just as easy to grow as marigolds, unless they need to be cut more often - for the benefit of them and for the bouquet. The bush, with regular cutting, branches strongly and blooms powerfully. Cut flowers stay fresh for a long time.
Zinnias attract all sorts of beneficial insects. Their cheerful coloring is also cute for the gardener.
You can sow zinnias anywhere and for the sake of beauty, and for the "convocation" of beneficial insects, and for shading plants that need protection from the sun. They are completely harmless, not allelopathic. They bloom quite quickly, they have time to give flowers, even if they are sown after harvesting potatoes.
By the way, zinnias make an excellent cover crop. The plant is strong, does not shrink from frost, like buckwheat and even oats, stands with leaves all winter and holds snow well in winter and melt water spring.

Chrysanthemums. Chrysanthemums require some fiddling. And they cannot be grown on vegetable beds: the rain washes away poisonous compounds from their leaves that inhibit the sprouts and growth of other plants. Moreover, they are even "disgusting to themselves": they do not grow well in the place where they grew before.

The article is taken from the site: http://derevnyaonline.ru/community/264/3052, based on the book by B.V. Bagel "Melange garden" by elsa27