What distance should be between potato beds. Distance between potato rows. Distance between tubers

Distance between rows

For example, you can plant not tubers, but shares, or the so-called cuts, cuts: it turns out profitable and excellent planting material.

Make holes with a shovel.

Tubers develop on stolons that are in the ground.

1. When planting in holes, the distance between holes is at least 60 cm, the distance between rows is up to 1 meter (for spacious and sunny germination of seedlings).

Potatoes need to be planted at a distance
There are plenty of recommendations for the distance between potatoes, but everyone determines this distance for their site empirically. Because it depends not only on the variety of potatoes, but also on the quality of the soil. It is usually advised not to discharge potatoes in a row, so that during hilling a single earth mound is created along one row on both sides - this is convenient and takes less time than hilling each bush separately. Therefore, the distance between potatoes should be from 25 to 35 centimeters. Well, the distance between the rows has to be chosen based on the convenience of moving along them, this is about 50 centimeters.
At the dacha, they never bothered with potatoes - there is a lot of trouble, little sense. In the village they hired a peasant with a horse to make furrows. Then the same man was hired to spud potatoes. He himself already knows the distance so that the horse passes and does not crush the potatoes.
It is recommended to plant tubers in the holes with sprouts down. This must be done in order to form a better spreading, which will contribute to greater ventilation and illumination of the resulting bush. After this procedure has been completed, and all the rules have been followed, with the help of a rake, you should cover the potatoes with earth from above.
More often you can find a landing where the gaps between the bushes will be twice as large. You can also find the following method for calculating the correct distance between the bushes. Here, the total weight of the potato must be divided by the entire area on which you plan to plant it. In this case, the figures obtained will be a real reflection of the yield. You can even find data when the distance between the holes is one meter (for row proximity of 70 cm). But this method gives the smallest yield.

If a ridge planting option is used (beds are formed), then two rows are placed in one bed. In such a situation, the rows are placed at a distance of 19-26 cm. Summer is coming, which means it's time to plant potatoes. it cultivated plant considered one of the most common in gardens and areas of our country. The distance between the rows of potatoes is very important for the future harvest. At the same time, do not forget that the distance between the potatoes should also be taken into account. These parameters play an important role in the formation of tubers. Therefore, this article will be devoted to these issues.

To do this, the tops of the tubers are cut off, and immediately the cuts are dipped into a basin with wood ash and laid out on plywood with their eyes up.

On average, 15 centimeters deep.
The more the potato stalk is covered with earth, the more stolons are formed, and therefore the harvest awaits us huge. Of course, if the land is suitable and the climatic conditions.

2. Naturally, we put one medium-sized potato in the hole (when laying more than one tuber, the plant thickens and does not receive proper nutrition).

25-30

Spacing between tubers

Some potatoes are planted under the plow: in the furrows made by the plow they put potatoes at a distance of 20-25 cm. We always plant potatoes under a shovel, and, as we say, "under the heel". This means that when you throw the previous row, the far mark from your heel will serve as a guide for the next row. Usually it comes out 60-70 cm row by row. We put 2 potatoes in the holes, as a result, in a row, potatoes are obtained after 30-35 cm. It is easier to weed later, there is enough land for hilling potato bushes.

Approximately 60 cm. But we plant densely in a row. Potato to potato.

As you can see, such a seemingly ordinary process as planting potatoes can be a certain degree of complexity. Incorrectly planted tubers can significantly reduce the yield of an entire plantation. Therefore, before embarking on the process itself, you should first familiarize yourself with the nuances that relate to this issue.

It should be noted that, as in the situation with the distance between the rows, it is necessary to take into account the plant variety:

Each subsequent two rows are separated by a groove having a width of one shovel. The walls of this groove should be sloping.

To get a good potato harvest, when planting it, the distance between the rows, as well as the distance between the tubers, should be taken into account. It is necessary to start planting potatoes only when the soil temperature reaches up to 8 degrees at a depth of 10 cm. Often these conditions occur in May (during a dry and warm spring, planting can be done already at the beginning of this month).
Do it in advance, in March. And in May or earlier - for the southern regions - they are already planting potatoes. The saved tubers are put into food, the benefits of such methods are obvious.

And with the earth that you take out of the next row of holes, you fall asleep.

When the bird cherry blossoms, they start planting potatoes.

3. Planting depth is 25-30 cm, the main crop of potatoes is formed not in the hole, but in that aboveground part of the soil that you will create during agrotechnical work by cultivating a fertile soil layer (the procedure of "hilling up" - creating a layer of earth above the soil level ).

(twenty five - thirty) Every year I plant potatoes under a chopper, I make holes half a palm deep, the distance between the holes is 30 cm, and the distance between rows is 70 - 75 cm, but usually you won’t run around the garden with a ruler, so on the first row I measure the distance between holes, and then I fill the holes each against each other, and I measure the aisles with the size of my foot, I have size 37, it turns out I measure the distance between the rows with my feet.

40-50 centimeters, always in different ways, how we set up the plow :)

In the video, the agronomist tells how to plant potatoes correctly: when to plant, which planting scheme to choose depending on the type of soil; considered different schemes landing.

Early varieties are best planted at a distance between bushes from 25 to 30 cm;

The best distance between two adjacent rows for potatoes is determined by its variety:

Video "How to plant potatoes"

You should know that well-sprouted tubers can be planted a little earlier - at a temperature of 5 or 6 degrees in the soil. Some gardeners claim that such planting, on the contrary, contributes to a higher yield.

plodovie.ru

Potatoes should be planted when the bird cherry blossoms. You need to plow the land, make holes and throw potatoes. The distance between the rows must be kept 70-75 cm, and between the holes in the row - 40 cm. When shoots appear, you need to remove the grass. When the seedlings become higher, you need to spud.

On average, there are 4-5 bushes per m².

With a shovel, deepenings of at least 10 cm are made, in which last year's tubers warmed up with eyes are placed and sprinkled with earth.

4. When planting, it’s not at all bad to throw a little into the holes wood ash and humus to create fertile conditions for the germination of tubers.

centimeters

indasad.ru

What is the distance between rows when planting potatoes?

Ludmila

At such a distance that the potatoes have room to grow and you have how to process it. If you plant under a shovel, then the distance along the shovel is 40-50 cm between tubers in a row and 60-80 cm between rows. If you will spud with a plow, then wider, if with a chopper manually, then you can make row spacings smaller.

psv.at.ua

We plant potatoes according to the Dutch technology - in double rows. Between rows 30 cm, between pairs 90. We spud a couple together, from different sides, do not touch the middle. Between potatoes in a row 20 cm. Between double rows, I plant beets, corn, cabbage, sunflowers.

love

It must be understood that the main goal pursued by this method of reproduction is to obtain a healthy planting material for future seasons. In this case, you can not expect a high result in terms of yield, since small-sized tubers will be obtained.

UMA NMA

Late varieties need to be planted at a greater distance - from 30 to 35 cm.

Evgeniya Taratutina

Early ripe varieties need to be grown at a distance of 60-75 cm;

Svetlana Nosacheva

Potatoes are usually planted on a flat surface. But with heavy or waterlogged soils - on the ridges (beds). This allows the soil to warm up better, and also improves its aeration.

Elena Smelik

First you need to plow the ground, then make holes, throw a little manure or fertilizer into them and throw potatoes on top. Then take the earth with a shovel and cover the holes. The size between the pits should be at least 50 by 50 centimeters.

Natasha

When shoots have appeared, remove the grass with a chopper.

Olesya

The distance between rows must be maintained 70-75 cm, and between holes in a row - 40 cm.

Nikolai Parkhomenko

5. Planting is preferably not carried out in overdried soil, plus timely watering and weed control are necessary.

At what distance should potatoes (potatoes) be planted from each other?

Milli88

Andrey0817

Today, many people plant potatoes under a plow or walk-behind tractor, where the distance in the rows is greater (1 m-1.5 meters).

They always planted after 60 cm, but I really liked the previous method.

Potato seeds are formed in berries that grow on tops after flowering. But this does not happen on all varieties of potatoes. Or you can buy ready-made seeds from seed companies. Having collected the first crop of potatoes from seeds, it is necessary to sort it and store it until the next planting season. In the second year, such nodules are planted separately, and they are monitored, as a result of which the most productive, resistant to diseases and pests, beautiful potato bushes are selected. During the third and fourth years, the selection of planting material is carried out in the same way. Only in the fifth year can you start mass growing potatoes, waiting for a normal harvest.

lady v

These figures are for tubers having a standard size for planting (with egg). When using smaller tubers, the above distances must be reduced. The optimal distance will be about 18-20 cm. For very large tubers, the distance can increase significantly and even be 45 cm.

Praskovya55

Late-ripening varieties should be planted in a row, the distance between which should be no more than 90 cm (minimum 70 cm).

Aleso

You need to start planting by determining the distance between the rows. To do this, do the following:

Barambulechka

The standard way to plant potatoes looks like this:

Then later, when the seedlings become taller, you spud.

Registrar

As the seedlings appear and grow, they are sprinkled with earth using special devices or an ordinary hoe.

You can follow a lot of wisdom, but still Special attention allocate to the land, an exhausted land will not produce a good harvest. So fertilize the land, change the planting site, plant legumes

It is not necessary to walk with a tape measure. It's okay if you add or reduce a little. You can estimate the length of the foot (43-44 size).

The distance when planting potatoes is determined primarily by the planting method.

PRAVDA911

Previously planted through a spade bayonet in a row and 70 cm between rows, and now in a square nesting way 70 by 70.

chacha777

Potato shoots from seeds are very thin and weak. If you have a well-equipped greenhouse in which you can create everything the necessary conditions according to heat and lighting, then sowing can be started from mid-March. But for the most part, gardeners germinate seedlings in room conditions, where temperature fluctuations and insufficient lighting are possible, therefore, in this case, it is necessary to grow potatoes with seeds after the twentieth of April, when warm weather comes stable weather. It is necessary to choose a well-lit place and fence it off with a film to a height of 50 - 60 cm. In the resulting fence there are low (about 10 - 15 cm) boxes in which plastic pots about 10 cm in diameter. Pots are filled with a nutrient mixture, which is prepared from one part of garden soil and one part of humus, sand is also added. Garden land is not taken from last year's planting of potatoes or tomatoes, the best option there will be soddy soil.

rumba08

The distance that is observed for the rows is not of particular importance when choosing the distance between the bushes. This parameter is directly dependent on the characteristics of the soil composition. If the soil is fertile, it has a lot nutrients, then the planting should be carried out more densely, since the possibilities of the soil will allow the bushes to form normally and give an excellent harvest in terms of taste and volume. With low soil fertility, gardeners recommend planting tubers at a greater distance from each other, so that in the future the bushes have enough opportunities to form a crop. Planting potatoes in a row is usually carried out according to the 30x80 cm scheme. Here you should make an adjustment for the plant variety. Early potatoes form less dense haulm, so they can be planted more densely with smaller row spacings. Some gardeners claim that the simultaneous planting of early and late varieties will give a better harvest.Mark the entire plot; Dig a bed or plow with a walk-behind tractor. Then when it blooms, pick off the flowers.

They dug up the earth (plowed).

bolshoyvopros.ru

How to plant potatoes?

We throw potatoes into a hole that is the size of half a shovel. The smaller the layer on top, the faster it will rise. Sprouts preferably up. Do not take sick potatoes, you can cut the large ones into two halves, but so that the eyes are present on the halves. Before throwing a potato into a hole, put some peat first

sds

How many potatoes to put in a hole? Do you cut potatoes? Distance between holes, rows? What are the tips? Is it worth processing potatoes with anything? How deep to plant? Maybe there are some secrets?

If you sit under a tractor, then the distance between the rows will be 1-1.5 meters. In a row, the distance between potatoes is small, 20-30 cm.

I plant 70*30. Just right..

Askhat Mukhametzyanov

Before sowing the seeds, they must be heated for 10 - 20 minutes at a temperature of about 40 ° C, and then soaked in warm water. To do this, the seeds are kept in a warm place for half an hour in a damp cloth, which should not dry out. Next, the seeds are planted with tweezers in pots, the earth in which should be well moistened. The boxes where the seedlings will germinate are covered with glass or film on top. Usually shoots appear in 7 - 9 days. After the bulk of the seedlings appear, it needs to be fed. To do this, use urea in a ratio of 10 - 15 g per 10 liters of water. Before the plants are planted in the ground, it is necessary to start hardening, by carrying out ventilation and lowering the temperature to 15 - 20 ° C. By the time it is time to transplant the plants into the ground, good seedlings will already have 5-6 leaves sprouting, and their height will be about 15 cm. The twentieth of May will be a good time for planting, although if the weather is already steadily warm, then you can before. The distance between the rows should be 60 - 90 cm, and in the rows themselves, the seedlings are planted every 25 - 30 cm. In order to get larger tubers, it is necessary to place potatoes as rarely as possible. When planting young plants, it is necessary to carefully push a clod of earth out of the pot so as not to damage the roots. They are located in furrows or holes, which must first be well filled with water.

Common potato planting pattern

Rows should be oriented north to south. This will give the bushes more sunlight. Although in this situation it is possible to be guided by the capabilities of your site or garden and determine the distance by eye.

Marking is done with a marker (in this case, it means a shovel, stick, etc.). They draw a shallow furrow. These furrows are followed by further planting;

Dig holes in a row a spade bayonet wide (naturally) and half a bayonet deep (25-30 cm). You can pour a little mineral fertilizer into the hole and put a potato (one) with sprouts up. Sprinkle with earth when digging the next row. Width between rows 50-60 cm.

Wait for the tops to dry and dig.

dolphanics

Take as many potatoes as you need for landing.

When we first planted potatoes on dug up manure sandy soil, the size of the potatoes grown in the fall brought us into a pleasant stupor. The bucket held no more than 10 - 15 tubers. A clean, pinkish large potato. For another two years, high yields remained, and then the wireworm appeared and the size of the tubers began to decrease every year.

Correct answer:

Nikolai Sosiura

If you are planting under a plow, the distance between rows is also 60-80 cm. My family and I plant potatoes every year. Dad dug a hole, and we, sisters with buckets, threw 2-3 potatoes each. But dad dug holes, then the first row ended at the place where he stood digging and throwing closed the previous holes with potatoes. I think about 20 cm, then to chop and water them.

Follow-up care after planting consists of regular watering every 2 - 3 days and feeding with complex or nitrogen fertilizers, as well as hilling and weeding. It is also necessary to carry out timely treatment against powdery mildew and the Colorado potato beetle.

The tubers are planted in holes. The correct depth for them is from 7 to 10 cm. At this depth, the potatoes warm up best and germinate quickly.

If we dealt with the distance between rows in the previous paragraph, then the question of the optimal distance between tubers remains open.

A cord is pulled along the first groove between the wedges, which will act as a guide;

This is how potatoes are planted using the "old-fashioned" method under a shovel.

A lot depends on the soil. If the soil is pressed after autumn, be sure to dig it up. You can plant in holes, you can make ridges. You can put a handful of manure and superphosphate (several granules) in the holes, you can cut grass, it will rot and the potatoes will receive additional moisture when it is not enough. It is possible to make the distance between the rows 70 cm, or less. It will depend on the climate in your area. When the tops close the rows, less moisture will evaporate. Planting potatoes is also determined differently when a leaf on a birch tree is about a coin. You can spud potatoes, some do not spud. Then she will be born large, but there will be less of her. You choose.

Large cut with a knife into pieces.

Igor75

Plant potatoes

Nothing to dig and spud!

If planted under a shovel, then the distance between the rows and in the row is approximately 40-50 cm.

The figure shows a diagram of how to properly plant potatoes and you should not reduce the distance if you want to harvest a good harvest in the fall.

Between rows 60-70 cm, and the row is dense. It is so convenient to spud, and the potatoes do not degenerate. Have a rich harvest!

Sprouted stems should be covered with earth on top. This procedure will need to be repeated in a week. This will allow the formation of strong stems, which will positively affect the yield. If the planting dates were later, then the depth of the hole increases by 3 cm (especially this rule applies to dry periods).

Most often in the literature one can find the statement that one square meter about 6 bushes should be planted. If we take just such a number of plants, then in the case of a row spacing of about 70 cm, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the bushes of 26 cm. In practice, in order not to run with a ruler, this distance practically corresponds to a segment of one and a half width of an ordinary shovel. You should be guided by the diameter of the hole dug with such a shovel (it is approximately 25-27 cm).

The tuber can be planted directly under the stretched cord. But this is a very laborious process that will take a lot of time;

If desired, you can cut the potatoes into pieces so that "eyes" remain on each.

We planted potatoes like this: we dug a series of holes with a bayonet shovel half a bayonet, then threw a little humus into them, because the ground was sandy there. They put potatoes in the holes. Passing the next row, the earth was thrown into the holes of the first row. Large tubers, if any, were cut in half, making sure that the eyes were equally in each half. The distance between the holes was made approximately 50 - 60 centimeters, the same distance between the rows. It is not necessary to plant densely, it will be inconvenient to weed and hill up, and the yield will decrease. When the seedlings are 10 centimeters, weed for the first time and lightly spud. Then hilling will have to be repeated.

Summer is coming, which means it's time to plant potatoes. This cultivated plant is considered one of the most common in gardens and areas of our country. The distance between the rows of potatoes is very important for the future harvest. At the same time, do not forget that the distance between the potatoes should also be taken into account. These parameters play an important role in the formation of tubers. Therefore, this article will be devoted to these issues.

Distance between rows

To get a good potato harvest, when planting it, the distance between the rows, as well as the distance between the tubers, should be taken into account. It is necessary to start planting potatoes only when the soil temperature reaches up to 8 degrees at a depth of 10 cm. Often these conditions occur in May (during a dry and warm spring, planting can be done already at the beginning of this month).

Usually planting potatoes is carried out on a flat surface. But with heavy or waterlogged soils - on the ridges (beds). This allows the soil to warm up better, and also improves its aeration.

You need to start planting by determining the distance between the rows. To do this, do the following:

mark the entire area;
marking is done with a marker (in this case, this means a shovel, stick, etc.). They draw a shallow furrow. On these furrows and carry out further landing;
a cord is pulled along the first furrow between the wedges, which will act as a guide;
the tuber can be planted directly under the stretched cord. But this is a very laborious process that will take a lot of time;
after planting potatoes in a row, to increase productivity, the soil should be mulched. Mulching is carried out with peat, which is poured in a layer of two to three centimeters.

If a ridge planting option is used (beds are formed), then two rows are placed in one bed. In such a situation, the rows are placed at a distance of 19-26 cm. Each subsequent two rows are separated by a groove having a width of one shovel. The walls of this groove should be sloping.

The best distance between two adjacent rows for potatoes is determined by its variety:

early ripe varieties should be grown at a distance of 60-75 cm;
late-ripening varieties should be planted in a row, the distance between which should be no more than 90 cm (minimum 70 cm).

Planting potatoes in a row is usually carried out according to the 30x80 cm pattern. Here, an adjustment should be made for the plant variety. Early potatoes form less dense haulm, so they can be planted more densely with smaller row spacings. Some gardeners claim that the simultaneous planting of early and late varieties will give a better harvest.

Rows should be oriented from north to south. This will give the bushes more sunlight. Although in this situation it is possible to be guided by the capabilities of your site or garden and determine the distance by eye.

Spacing between tubers

If we dealt with the distance between rows in the previous paragraph, then the question of the optimal distance between tubers remains open.

Most often in the literature you can find the statement that about 6 bushes should be planted per square meter. If we take just such a number of plants, then in the case of a row spacing of about 70 cm, it is necessary to maintain a distance between the bushes of 26 cm. In practice, in order not to run with a ruler, this distance practically corresponds to a segment of one and a half width of an ordinary shovel. You should be guided by the diameter of the hole dug with such a shovel (it is approximately 25-27 cm).

But when using such a planting scheme, the potatoes will grow quite densely. Similar option not very beneficial in terms of plantation yield. In practice, this scheme is rarely used.

More often you can find a landing where the gaps between the bushes will be twice as large. You can also find the following method for calculating the correct distance between the bushes. Here, the total weight of the potato must be divided by the entire area on which you plan to plant it. In this case, the figures obtained will be a real reflection of the yield. You can even find data when the distance between the holes is one meter (for row proximity of 70 cm). But this method gives the smallest yield.

It should be noted that, as in the situation with the distance between the rows, it is necessary to take into account the plant variety:

early varieties are best planted at a distance between bushes from 25 to 30 cm;
late varieties need to be planted at a greater distance - from 30 to 35 cm.

These figures are for tubers that have a standard size for planting (with a chicken egg). When using smaller tubers, the above distances must be reduced. The optimal distance will be about 18-20 cm. For very large tubers, the distance can increase significantly and even be 45 cm.

Common potato planting pattern

Tubers are planted in holes. The correct depth for them is from 7 to 10 cm. At this depth, the potatoes warm up best and germinate quickly. Sprouted stalks should be covered with earth on top. This procedure will need to be repeated in a week. This will allow the formation of strong stems, which will positively affect the yield. If the planting dates were later, then the depth of the hole increases by 3 cm (especially this rule applies to dry periods).

Also, the depth of the hole depends on the type of soil. For heavy soil, this parameter should be about 8 cm. In light soils, the depth of the hole should be about 10 cm. And for clay soils, the hole is made with a depth of 5 cm.

When choosing a depth, you should not clearly focus on the above figures, since you need to make an assessment of the size of the tubers themselves. Smaller potatoes need to be planted at a shallow depth, but for large ones, the depth should be greater. A deviation from the established figures by no more than 3 cm in any direction is allowed.

It is recommended to plant tubers in the holes with sprouts down. This must be done in order to form a better spreading, which will contribute to greater ventilation and illumination of the resulting bush. After this procedure has been completed, and all the rules have been followed, with the help of a rake, you should cover the potatoes with earth from above.

As you can see, such a seemingly ordinary process as planting potatoes can be a certain degree of complexity. Incorrectly planted tubers can significantly reduce the yield of an entire plantation. Therefore, before proceeding with the process itself, you should first familiarize yourself with the nuances that relate to this issue.

Video "How to plant potatoes"

In the video, the agronomist tells how to plant potatoes correctly: when to plant, which planting scheme to choose depending on the type of soil; different landing schemes are considered.

plodovie.ru

Motoblock or shovel - what is the best way to plant potatoes?

Everyone knows how to plant potatoes, at least theoretically. It would seem that it can be difficult in this process - dig a hole, throw a potato and cover it with earth, and then it will sprout by itself. Neither watering nor special care is required when growing potatoes, only weed and spud once. But even in such an obvious process, there are some wisdoms, without which you risk digging up potatoes much less than you expected.

Preliminary work: germination of tubers and soil preparation

How to plant potatoes to achieve a great harvest? Not every experienced gardener can give an accurate answer to this question, since a good result when growing potatoes with your own hands depends on many factors: planting time, row spacing, hole depth, planting material itself, climatic conditions, etc. But about how it is more convenient and faster to plant potatoes, disputes between gardeners do not subside.

Someone plants potatoes in the traditional way by hand, others prefer to use a walk-behind tractor or a special planter. How potatoes are planted using a conventional walk-behind tractor, the video attached to the article shows very clearly. Each method has its supporters and opponents, which option is more effective and easier - it's up to you.

The planting of potatoes begins, as a rule, when the first leaves the size of a coin appear on the birches, and the soil warms up to 6-8 degrees to a depth of 10 cm. Pre-sprouted and warmed potato tubers can be planted in the soil, the temperature of which is 4-5 degrees.

The earth should be slightly moist, crumble well and not stick to the shovel. Loosen the soil with a rake by 6-7 cm so that the surface is even and the lumps are small. Instead of digging and cultivating, it is better to prefer bayoneting with a pitchfork, lifting the layers of soil and leaving them in the same place. This method requires less effort than digging, and does not dry out the earth. If you plan to plant potatoes in a large area, you can use a walk-behind tractor and mill the earth to a depth of up to 10 cm.

Potato tubers should germinate within two weeks before planting. Removing thin sprouts white color, spread the potato tubers in a single layer on the floor so that the light falls on them. At the end of germination (preplant vernalization), thick green sprouts should appear on the potatoes, not necessarily big size. Tubers planted with sprouts develop and ripen two to three weeks earlier than unsprouted tubers. When preparing planting material, make sure that there is not a single spot on it. To increase productivity, you can dust the tubers cut along with wood ash.

Video about how to plant potatoes

Manual method of planting potatoes

To obtain straight rows, it is recommended to pre-mark the furrows, accurately keeping the distance between them, or to land on a cord. Row spacing is best left 70 cm wide, and from hole to hole should be about 26-30 cm (20 cm is enough for seed potatoes). If you make the row spacing smaller, it will be inconvenient to spud and weed.

Traditional manual planting of potatoes quite simple: one person digs a hole 8-10 cm deep with a shovel, the second follows him, lowering the tuber upside down into the hole and adding a handful of compost, humus or fertilizers (niter, urea). When digging next hole, the previous one is covered with earth. At the end of planting, the entire surface should be leveled with a rake, then moisture from the soil will evaporate less.

There is a special technique for planting potatoes in areas where ground water come close to the surface. To do this, ridges up to 15 cm in height are formed on the soil surface, with an intermediate distance of about half a meter. Potato tubers are planted in these ridges. With insufficient soil moisture, this method is contraindicated.

Using a walk-behind tractor or planter when planting potatoes

Many gardeners, in order not to bother their backs with a shovel, prefer to mechanize the process as much as possible by using a walk-behind tractor or a special planter. A planter is especially useful for potatoes if you grow potatoes using the Mittlider method: the holes are carefully cut at the same distance without disturbing the narrow beds, and the tubers are leveled with earth from above using a rake.

Planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor is done like this:

first, even planting furrows are cut, while deep loosening of the soil occurs;
sprouted potato tubers are placed sprouts up into the furrows every 30-45 cm (if the planting material is small, then make the distance smaller);
furrows are closed manually with a rake or motor cultivator.

When forming furrows, try to leave a distance of 50-60 cm between them, so that during the subsequent processing of potatoes (weeding, loosening, hilling and harvesting), the wheels can pass freely without damaging the buried tubers.

Video about planting potatoes with a walk-behind tractor

Proponents of mechanical planting argue that the use of a walk-behind tractor improves the yield, since the cultivator loosens the ground better than a conventional shovel. Which landing will be more effective and give the most top scores you will only learn from personal experience.

orchardo.ru

Learning to grow potatoes

Springtime, as usual, takes many by surprise.

Someone understands that they should start getting in shape before the summer season, but time is running out, and someone forgets that he has a garden that needs to be looked after.

Moreover, different vegetable and fruit crops have their own characteristics of growing, watering and harvesting.

In order to collect a quality crop every summer and autumn, you need to take care of it in advance, caring for the plants.

With this topic in mind, today we will talk about potatoes and how to grow potatoes from seed.

We will answer questions on how to grow potatoes from seeds and how potatoes are planted with seeds

All gardeners know that potatoes reproduce, as a rule, in a vegetative way. For this, the tubers presented in the villa of the thickened stem are used.

Since in these very tubers there is a sufficient amount organic matter, it is more suitable for the formation of new plants than potato seeds.

However, planting potatoes with seeds is done no less often; this method seems more convenient to many gardeners.

At the same time, you must be clearly aware that growing potatoes from seeds will not lead to a large yield.

From seeds you will get small tubers, which later will need to be stored from potatoes grown in the traditional way.

Remember also potato seeds, the price of which is very reasonable today, germinate more slowly than tubers.

In order to speed up the process of their germination, many gardeners even use various additional measures, such as heating or treating with different solutions.

Then, perhaps, the process of growing potatoes with seeds will be more effective.

We grow potatoes with seeds: the correct planting of potato seeds is their price

If you decide to plant potatoes with seeds, then it is better to start doing this in the spring. To do this, the seeds you have selected must be soaked in water so that they can germinate. After two or three weeks, the first sprouts of your seeds will already appear. Then you can start gradually planting the germinated seeds. Just do it very carefully, without damaging the sprouts, because sometimes they do not take root precisely because of a careless attitude towards them.

Having begun to prepare the seeds for planting in the spring, by the middle of summer they can turn into lush and strong bushes. Sometimes potato bushes grown from seeds, paradoxically, look much stronger and healthier than their tuber counterparts. After all, when planting potato seeds, in other matters, like other crops, the most important thing is the right approach and attentive attitude. And you should not worry at all about where to buy potato seeds. Now floral and garden shops a lot in every city. The main thing is to decide on the variety.

How and where to buy potato seeds and is it possible to get potato seeds by mail?

Potatoes planted in the spring from seeds can be safely harvested in the month of September. If you did everything right, then it is likely that individual tubers will not even fit in your palm, and there will be no small potatoes at all. Although, if such come across, leave them for seeds.

If you don't know exactly how to grow potatoes from seed, read the relevant literature or search the internet for information. It will be quite useful for a novice gardener to re-read tips on how to plant potato seeds, the price of which can also be found on the Internet.

In the event that you still have not decided where to buy potato seeds, there is a decent Alternative option- receiving potato seeds by mail. To do this, you need to go to the appropriate online gardening store, place an order for the variety you need and wait for the potato seeds to be delivered to you by mail. Today it is fast and convenient, and the price is not too different from ordinary stores.

In any case, be aware that planting potato seeds is like any other vegetable or fruit crop, requires attention, responsibility and accuracy. If you dream of getting a good harvest, put some effort into it, and then nature will certainly thank you!

Read also:
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Conditions for a good, large harvest
Growing seedlings of cucumbers
Planting and growing carrots
Growing bell pepper
Growing green onions
Growing onions
Agrotechnics of cauliflower
Table beet harvesting and storage
Miracle garden - how to grow plants in a greenhouse
When is the best time to start planting vegetables in your garden?
Soil preparation for sowing
How to choose a good plant nursery
Cultivation of cucumbers in open ground. Practical Tips experienced gardeners.
How to grow cucumbers in a greenhouse
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On the benefits of home gardening
Planting an apple orchard
spice cultivation
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How to stepson grapes

udec.ru

Proper planting of potatoes

If the stem-forming ability of tubers is increased by any methods, then they are planted sparsely. Planting density also depends on the fertility of the soil. Large tubers are planted with a row spacing of 80-90 cm, smaller ones - 60-70 cm, in a row after 25-30 cm. On fertile soils, planting should be denser than on poorly cultivated ones without applying a sufficient amount of fertilizer.

Landing site preparation

When planting small tubers, the background of organic and mineral nutrition should be 15-20% higher. Before planting potatoes, it is necessary to outline in advance the rows where the tubers should be planted. Marking is usually carried out with a special marker resembling a rake with wooden teeth. The first pass of the marker is made along a stretched cord from the edge of the site. The last prong of the marker is led along the cord. During the reverse course, the extreme prong is followed by the trace outlined by the opposite prong. Landing can also be carried out under the cord, but this is less convenient and takes more time. To maintain the correct distance in a row, pre-measured sticks are used.

Prevention from diseases and pests

To protect against fungal diseases, wells can be watered with a solution before planting. blue vitriol(1 tablespoon per 10 liters of water), and to protect against the bear - add 1 teaspoon of crushed eggshells mixed with a small amount of vegetable oil.

After that, 0.5 kg of compost or humus is added to each well, or a spoonful of ground bird droppings, also 1-2 tablespoons of wood ash. The fertilizers introduced into the wells are mixed with the soil and covered with a layer of earth 2-3 cm, and then the tubers are planted at the desired depth with their tops and sprouts up. After planting potatoes, the area is leveled with a rake.

Planting depth. Potatoes should be planted as shallow as possible, covering the tubers to the same depth. The maximum soil layer above them is 8 cm. With such a shallow planting depth, the tubers heat up better and germinate quickly. In Holland, a trendsetter in potato growing, potatoes are planted so that the top of the tuber is at ground level. A comb is formed above it. A shallower planting can lead to greening of the new crop tubers again.

Potato grower V.R. Gorelov from the Kemerovo region suggests that seed tubers should not be buried in the soil, but laid out on a slightly loosened surface and covered with mounds or rolls of mulch 10-12 cm high. Mulch can be a mixture of humus with straw, peat, compost or a mixture of rotted sawdust (60%) and sand (40%) filled with a full dose mineral fertilizers with micronutrients. This mixture is especially effective on heavy, clay soils. When the plants reach a height of 20-25 cm, you need to add additional mulch so that the tubers do not turn green.

This mulch allows the roots to develop freely. It retains moisture and air, contains nutrients, regulates temperature in hot and cold weather, provides drainage around the roots, and suppresses weeds. Under the mulch near the soil surface are collected earthworms, which loosen and cultivate the soil, turn organic matter into precious humus. If green needles are added to the mulch, then the plants will suffer less from the Colorado potato beetle, wireworm and other pests, as well as from certain diseases.

V. R. Gorelov, with this method of growing potatoes, received twice the yield. Harvesting does not require much effort, as the soil does not hold tubers. Almost all of them rise with the tops almost clean.

Mulch can be used for several years. When landing on next year the overwintered roller of organics is moved apart and seed tubers are laid on the soil. If the mulch is not enough, then small holes are made in the soil and the tubers are covered not with a continuous roller, but with separate mounds. At the same time, the distance between the tubers is increased to 40 cm, because then the tops develop more powerful.

This method requires making a large number organics (up to 800 kg per hundred square meters), however, a high and healthy potato crop pays for all costs.

sad-dacha-garden.com

Traditional and unusual ways of planting potatoes

The beginning of May in our area is the traditional time for planting potatoes. So it's time to think about how to plant it this time, because in recent times new, original ones have been added to the usual methods - there is plenty to choose from.

Traditional ways of planting potatoes

There are three usual methods: smooth landing, ridge and in trenches. Moreover, this is just the case when an arbitrary choice does not give the best results, because each of the options is intended for very specific conditions and in others it simply may not justify itself. Only the basic requirements remain common: to arrange plantings in the direction from south to north, so that the plants are illuminated evenly and receive a sufficient amount of light; keep distances. Also, do not forget about fertilization (I usually use ashes and compost); it is useful to add onion peel to the holes or trenches, which protects the plantings from the Colorado potato beetle.

Between rows of tubers:

for early varieties - 60 cm
for late varieties - 70 cm.

Between tubers in a row:

for early varieties - 25-30 cm
for late varieties - 30-35 cm.

It should be borne in mind here that the distances are indicated for tubers of standard planting size - about the size of a chicken egg; I often plant with small tubers - for them, of course, the distance in the row is proportionally reduced; the distance between rows does not depend on the size of planting tubers.

The optimal planting depth is:

on light soils - 10-12 cm
on heavy and loam - 8-10 cm
on clay soils - 4-5 cm.

Again, small tubers should not be planted as deep as large ones (but in any case, deviations of more than 3 cm from the recommended parameters are not recommended). In this video, Doctor of Biological Sciences, Head of the Department of Potato Genetic Resources of VIR named after V.I. Vavilova Kiru Stepan Dmitrievich talks about how to determine the correct planting dates and how to plant potatoes correctly.

ridge planting

This is a method in which ridges about 15 cm high with a distance of about 70 cm between them are made in the area intended for planting potatoes, and then tubers are planted in them. This technology will be expedient where groundwater lies close to the surface, the soil suffers from waterlogging. The method will also be useful on heavy soils, which are quickly compacted, preventing air exchange. In practice, combs are sometimes used simply because there is a tractor))

For example, in the village where I had a dacha, everyone plowed plots for potatoes with a tractor. And since the tractor driver had necessary fixtures for hilling, planted in ridges - to minimize manual labor. I refused this idea, even though we have loams: in dry years, moisture leaves such ridges very quickly, and abundant watering is required. And where I live now, there is sandy soil at all - here even the beds have to be made with sides, because the earth crumbles. Yes, and moisture does not linger in such soil, so another method is more suitable for us.

Planting potatoes in trenches

These are, in fact, ridges on the contrary: on sandy soils that do not retain moisture well, as well as in arid climates, we do not raise the tubers above ground level, but, on the contrary, we deepen them, laying them in trenches laid taking into account all recommended distances.

Naturally, if you use this method in areas with high humidity or very dense soil, there is a risk that our potatoes will simply suffocate or rot in the damp soil.

Smooth fit

If you got a site on the southern slope, where the soil warms up quickly, and the soil is quite loose and moderately moisture-intensive, you can plant it using the “under a shovel” method. This is best done with two people. Rows of future plantings are outlined, then one of the participants in the process, moving along the intended line, makes small holes (someone simply lifts a layer of earth to lay a tuber under it, someone prefers the holes - then the soil from the next "landing point" is covered previous). The second one follows and lays out the tubers.

We once used this method when planting potatoes in the first year on newly plowed virgin soil. The tractor left behind huge layers of earth - it would not have been possible to depict any ridges or trenches there in any case. Somehow they broke large clods with a hoe, and put tubers under the shovel - just as they are, as it turns out. By autumn, the site had changed - thanks to loosening, hilling, there were noticeably fewer weeds, and there were almost no large clods left. The method paid off, I used it in the future.

Unusual ways of planting potatoes

Planting potatoes under straw

This method has become more and more popular in recent years. In principle, there are reasonable reasons for this: less effort is spent with this method of growing potatoes than with traditional approaches. There are also disadvantages, of course - but here one must understand the same thing as when choosing one of the usual methods: in different conditions the same option can give different results. In short, the essence of the method boils down to the fact that potatoes are covered with a thick layer of straw instead of soil, adding it as the shoots grow. According to reviews, the potatoes are large, clean, it is very convenient to clean it. Skeptics note that straw holds water worse than earth, which means that in a drought it will be necessary to water more often and more abundantly, and mice can also settle in the straw. But I think the discussion here is unreasonable - you need to try it to see if this method suits you or not. Planting under straw is good to use virgin lands: in this case, you won’t have to dig anything, but not a single weed will break through the straw, and next year you will get a plot that is already quite suitable for further processing. Apply this method and on heavy soils- firstly, again, it eliminates digging for planting, and secondly, if after harvesting the remaining straw is embedded in the soil, you can significantly improve its structure, loosen it. Alternatively, potatoes can be laid out not on a flat surface, but into small holes which helps retain moisture. Another option - instead of straw use cut grass(the only obstacle: by the time we plant potatoes, for example, we don’t have enough grass yet). Below you will see a short video about one of the options for using this method of planting potatoes: Another variation on the theme (my neighbors in the dacha experienced it and were satisfied with the result): the potato bush is covered with grass from above (the tops are not collected in a pile, as with ordinary hilling, but laid out in the garden). It is clear that this will require more space, but the harvest, according to reviews, pleases. There is no particular hassle: potatoes have grown - you cover it with newly cut grass and weeds so that only the tops of the shoots stick out. And then you dig the crop - or rather, you choose from the grass))

Planting potatoes under a black film

Option - for non-woven material (also black). The method is insanely simple: the film (material) is spread on the selected area (previously dug up and flavored with humus or fertilizers), its edges are securely fixed so that the wind does not blow it away, and cross-shaped incisions are made along the markings (can be in a checkerboard pattern, or in rows). Then it remains only to select the soil under each cut, forming a hole (the depth depends on the structure of the soil) and lay the tubers, sprinkling with the excavated soil. That's all - the technology does not provide for weeding or hilling. The method is used more often for planting early potatoes- it allows you to get a crop faster. They say that both the number of tubers and the quality are increasing. But the method is not suitable for all regions: in a hot climate, the earth under the film will overheat, and our planting material will simply “bake”.

Planting potatoes in boxes

It will require quite laborious preparation, but then care is minimized. Box-containers are being built (according to the principle of warm beds) from improvised material. Dimensions: height - up to 30 cm, width - 100-120 cm, length - at will and possibility. Passages between ridges - 50-80 cm wide. box, like warm beds, are filled with organic matter, and then tubers are planted in them in a checkerboard pattern (in two rows, after 30 cm). They say that potatoes with this method of growing yield many times more than with conventional methods, and care (hilling, weeding) is not required. The beds can be used for more than one year, if you add organic matter as the soil settles, and after harvesting, sow the box with green manure. And the following video shows how such boxes and the whole process of growing potatoes (to the result) may look like in practice:

Potatoes in barrels, bags, buckets ...

The essence of the method is that a certain container is installed in a well-lit place and filled with fertile soil, in which potatoes are planted. The method has options. Sometimes it is suggested to make holes in the containers on the sides and plant potatoes in them. Sometimes - spread out the planting tubers on a small "pillow" of soil, sprinkle with soil, and then add soil as the shoots grow (so, they say, you can even plant potatoes in several tiers, if the dimensions of the container allow). Here's a short video that shows what it might look like and what could come of it:

Potatoes in mounds

Here, instead of the usual long rows, the construction of hills, or mounds, is supposed. To do this, circles up to 2 m in diameter are marked on the cultivated soil. Holes are made around the circumference at a distance of 25-40 cm from each other and tubers are laid out in them. The planting material is sprinkled with soil, and then, as the tops grow, the potatoes are spudded, forming a hill. In the middle of it, you should definitely make a “crater” hole for irrigation. According to reviews, this method helps to get a fairly high yield from a small area. For myself, I have not yet found anything more convenient than the old grandfather's ways of growing potatoes, but perhaps this year I will try to plant a small experimental bed under the grass (for lack of straw or hay).

Perhaps you know other ways to plant potatoes? Or have you experienced one of the new methods in practice? Tell us in the comments - how do you plant potatoes, are you planning any experiment this season?

Zinaida Fedorova, Moscow

Thank you. Interesting article. I planted potatoes on a black film with the tops, planted in a trench and sprinkled with straw. I plant the rest of the potatoes in trenches with beans. I use ash everywhere. These methods give a harvest many times greater than planted in the usual way.

Galina F., Orenburg

Zinaida, is it possible to pour sand into the trench along with the ashes? Today I also planted potatoes in a trench, sprinkled sand and ash, now I think I added sand in vain. I just covered it with earth, because no straw.

svetlana glazyrina, Talgar

for heavy soils nice results gives the puff pie method. We dig a trench deep into the bayonet of a shovel, put any organic matter on the bottom, sprinkle it with earth and lay out the potatoes. We fill it with earth by 5 cm. the potatoes turn out to be very large and the earth is loose and nutritious due to rotted grass, so there is no need to apply fertilizer except for ash. This method was tested by me on heavy clay soil for 8 years and there have always been good yields and large potatoes

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Svetlana, thank you for sharing your technology! Heavy soils are really a problem: they are difficult to work with and the plants are uncomfortable in them, and your method allows you to successfully resolve this situation. Tell me, what is the approximate layer of organic matter (in thickness) that you lay in the trench? That is, after planting, the potato is approximately flush with the soil, or is it still a little buried? Or can it be varied - depending on soil moisture? I understand that your site is quite dry - that is, there are no problems with stagnant water, right? On heavy soils, waterlogging is not uncommon, and in this case, probably, something loose, not rotting for a long time, should be laid on the bottom of such a trench, as in the arrangement of warm ridges - to get drainage? In general, I think this method can also be suitable for poor dry soils - there are problems here, but your “layer cake method”, I think, can solve them.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

I used the same method last year. Organic layer cm 5 - food waste from the EM bucket, some ash. I deepened the tuber by 5 cm, I was afraid to put it closer to the surface. Covered with a mixture of soil, rotted hay and leaves. An experiment was carried out on a small piece; shoots grown up to 15 cm were laid with beveled mulch. Hay was added as it grew. The harvest surprised me, the potatoes are really clean, large, I have not seen mice, although many write about it. Variety "Adretta" and "Rozara" gave 25-26 tubers. "Veneta" and "Skarb" - 15 each. This year I will sow green manure early, and I stocked up on organic matter over the winter. There was no Colorado potato beetle, scab too, but most importantly, it was easy. And I turn to stationary beds.

svetlana glazyrina, Talgar

I dig holes deeper, and put 5 cm of humus on the bottom and put 2 potatoes on the sides of the hole and fall asleep with humus as well, as 15 cm grows, again I fall asleep with humus and add a spoonful of ash and 1 liter of chicken manure tincture, but after that I already spud ...

Elena, Volgodonsk

I lay 10 cm of organic matter, after filling the potatoes with earth, there remains about a hollow indentation. The small hole is gradually filled with grass and earth, as it equals the level of the soil, I fold the grass and earth with a roller on both sides of the bushes, I make ridges up to 40 cm high. We do not have stagnant water ,

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Thank you for the article. This year they planted in 4 ways. 1st traditional (whole potato in a hole) 2nd (half of a potato with ash) 3rd grandfather's method (sprouts from potatoes), 4th (under mulch). We are waiting for the results, I wonder which of these methods will bring more yield.

Olga Mikhailova, Minsk

Elena, then share the results, okay? You get an experiment, the results of which may be of interest to many. The opinion of someone who has tried this or that method himself is always helpful. It's probably quite warm in your area, isn't it? We are still far from planting potatoes, it seems ... There is still snow in places, the earth has not thawed at all in some places, and the forecast promises a cold snap again: ((

Tatiana, Sudislavl

We have also planted potatoes. I don’t know what will happen, but I did it this way - I loosened the earth and covered it with straw.

Nikolai, Saratov

Olya, have you tried planting like this before? Or the first time? Did you deepen or just spread out the tubers? What is the layer of straw in cm? From what I saw with this method with my dad, some of the tubers turned green, but exactly where the layer was less than 10 cm when the straw was squeezed between the palms. And one more thing ... Where the straw was rotten, dark, we got excellent potatoes. Where yellow and shiny - not very.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

I ask for advice, there is no straw yet, but the neighbor is engaged in woodworking and there is a lot of sawdust, can I use them instead of straw? The soil is sandy.

Nikolai, Saratov

Nikolai, I had no experience of growing potatoes under sawdust. I use them for mulching strawberries and berries / I cover the soil with fermented food waste spread on it, because. I do not use manure and mineral fertilizers either. In any case, sawdust is just not conifers. And yet they must be stale, stubborn. The ground warms up under the sawdust for a very long time. Today I dug a bunch, and under it was a lump of compressed snow.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

I'm worried that there could be a high temperature under the sawdust if they start to sizzle. Sawdust of course mostly pine. Why not conifers? There is no information in the comments what to do after harvesting with mulch - digging or composting.

Olga Valerievna, Vladimir

Your thoughts, Nikolai, I understand. Time runs, landing soon, and questions without exact answers. coniferous sawdust resinous, apparently because they are not liked. They rot for a long time, if not helped, then up to 10 years. high temperature you will not wait, moisture and organics are needed for rotting / I do not consider urea treatment /. Fresh sawdust is very difficult to shed with water, and even form a crust. If you plant under sawdust, then why dig after? It may be better to use biologics in situ after harvest. Maybe you have another option to mix sawdust with last year's leaves, grass, food waste? But it is necessary to try, even if only on a small piece.

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

Today, my husband and I decided to experiment: we planted 10 pieces of sprouted tubers in bags: the rotted grass of the last year was at the bottom, then they took the earth, mixed it with purchased soil, added ash. The bags were placed on boards. Although not a landing day for potatoes, we will wait for the result.

Leonid, Bratsk

And we will wait for your stories about how the process is going on)) It’s a bit cold here ... I planned to plant potatoes tomorrow or the day after tomorrow, but today I was digging the ground - my hands would get cold in the evening. It froze last night, and today it is not hot - just above zero. Do you additionally cover your bags from the night cold?

Nikolai, Saratov

Nikolai, do not fall asleep with fresh sawdust, you will be left without a harvest. Fresh sawdust is suitable only for bushes, so that moisture is preserved and weed control. Sawdust must be given time to burn out, only then they are suitable for incorporation into the soil, mainly where heavy soils

Zulfira, Ufa

Thanks to all. I will plant traditionally. I think after hilling, so that the earth does not warm up strongly from the sun, it is possible to sprinkle sawdust with a thin layer. "Use biologics in situ after harvest." - for me unknown procedure. Usually in the winter I slowly do digging with a shovel with a flip of the top layer.

tatiana, eagle

Potatoes were planted on May 1, which is too early for our region (they promise frosts down to -6 degrees) according to a new technology for us - for pea hay. I kept the planting material in a box with wet sawdust - very bearded, strong sprouts turned out. The aisles were covered with cardboard and covered with sawdust. I got these recommendations from N.I. Kurdyumov’s books “Smart Garden in Details” and “Smart Garden in Details”. Wonderful books, accessible and understandable, and even written with great humor. I got a lot of new knowledge, which is reinforced on this site of summer residents. Now we will wait for shoots and, I hope, a good harvest.

Zulfira, Ufa

do you have a photo of the results? Or, what happened in general?

tatiana, eagle

I can say one thing - that we will plant only in this way, this autumn we increased the area for planting potatoes. All summer long they ate their own potatoes, usually they started buying the very first fresh potatoes on the market, and this year they ate theirs!!!

The photo shows only the beginning of the harvest, this is the bottom layer, which was on the ground and partially in the ground. It should be enough for the winter, but given the fact that we want to get birds, we are thinking of buying 2-3 bags, just in case. And regarding planting under straw - some pluses. No need to spud, there are very few weeds, and most importantly, they have never been treated with anything from the Colorado potato beetle, they only collected it once every 2-3 days, there were very few. They made one mistake when planting, they buried it a little in the ground, but they had to put it on top, so the potatoes are not very clean. When the tops sprouted, we tilted it and put another layer of straw, another row of potatoes grew at the inflection - we are simply delighted with this planting method. Many came locals also want to learn from the experience. It was a very rainy summer, almost everyone's potatoes rot, but we don't!

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

I planted it like that, I agree with you 100%, then I stopped because there is no hay. ((It’s convenient to get potatoes during the season to eat, opened it, took as much as needed and closed it back, and it grows further))

tatiana, eagle

Zulfira, and this year my experience with planting under the grass turned out to be unsuccessful ((Digging in the spring did not have enough strength or time - a lot of uncultivated land. Therefore, I decided to experiment: I walked along the selected patch with a chopper to level and slightly loosen the soil, spread out the germinated tubers, sprinkled with ashes and covered with dried grass.From the pros: under the grass, the soil remained moist, and the potatoes actively formed roots; weeds did not grow at the same time)) From the minuses: potato sprouts also could not find a way out for a long time, and when it rained , the tops of the sprouts, still under the grass, began to rot. In general, when the potatoes planted at the same time in the soil had already risen, and had not even appeared from under the grass, I became worried. Well, after I discovered the rotting shoots, I generally decided not to wait any longer - I removed the tubers from the grass and planted them in the traditional way - in the ground. After a couple of days, the seedlings were already green)) But I really liked to fill up the aisle with grass. I start spudding potatoes early, and spud more often than recommended. But on loose sandy soil, this causes problems: the ridges crumble. In addition, the moisture from them quickly leaves, it is necessary to water. This year, after listening to smart people here on the site, I began to dump mowed and weeded grass into the aisles. The result is great! Moisture is preserved, weeds do not grow, the soil does not crumble - there were practically no green tubers, unlike last year's planting. Plus - additional nutrition for potatoes and favorable conditions for earthworms. Here! :)))

Zulfira, Ufa

the mistake was that you covered it under dried grass!! and for reference, seedlings of potatoes planted under straw or hay appear later than those planted in the ground))

Marina, Nekrasovskoe

We laid out cardboard between the rows, and on top of the sawdust, despite heavy rains, the paths remained in excellent condition, I hope that they will be preserved next year. Marina, I am adopting your experience, we will also put weeded grass on top. We were lucky with hay, outside the village “collective farm fields are all around, everything around is mine”, there is a lot of hay, then they burn it anyway. There is not enough money for fertilizer, so the hay is without chemicals.

Ludmila Kovalenko, Moscow

In fact, there are much more options here) I have many experimenters among my summer residents. So they tried it in different ways, and everyone has their own opinion on this matter. Who praises the straw and categorically opposes the grass, who safely harvested the crop under the grass ... Some say that it is enough to spread the tubers on the surface and cover with grass, others argue that it is imperative to cover the soil first ... I asked many people who and how they plant, what gets results) And there is no unanimity on this issue. The trick is that any non-traditional technology must be adapted to oneself, to one's own conditions. What has been tested for generations in a particular area works in any weather and any circumstances. And some novelties need to be adapted. Including timing, by the way. Straw is a good thermal insulator. Therefore, if you plant potatoes under straw on unheated soil, seedlings will be later: it still pulls from the ground, and the straw keeps this chill. And if it's about late boarding when the soil is already warm, then there is no tangible difference.

Olga Valerievna, Vladimir

We planted on May 2 in the Tver region. Is it colder here? The seedlings were different, from 5 mm to 7 cm (I set them for distillation at different times). planted in high beds onion peel, shells and ash, piled up with straw and covered it with it. Let's hope!

Zulfira, Ufa

The bags were not closed, because There were no promised frosts, and the potatoes were well covered with earth. I will unsubscribe about how the process is going, and what came of our idea.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

In the village where we live now, potatoes are planted no earlier than May 9th. So far no one has planted. Two days in a row was very strong wind, rain with hail, worried that all the hay would scatter, but everything is in place. Today it’s just it's raining, we think, for the benefit of our future harvest.

Zulfira, Ufa

Zulfira, in our area / east of Kostroma / is planted en masse also at this time, but under hay and straw - from May 2-3. And there are frosts here in early June. My 90-year-old dad says that earlier, at the time of his youth, they always imprisoned at the beginning of June. In 1943, my father was drafted, fought, and never returned here. But he bought a house after the death of his mother, 9 km from his native nest. He has been living here for half a year, and on May 11, the eldest son is to bring him from Moscow. Last year he told a lot, his head is bright, including about potatoes. From the age of 16 before being drafted, he was a foreman on a collective farm. The May landing was connected with the May weekend, i.e. people have chosen a time when they are free from work.

Tatiana, Sudislavl

Tatyana, thank you, you are probably right about the landing time associated with the holidays, relatives could also come to help. In these parts, they have not even heard of planting under straw, they come to look at our dunes and are very surprised, I even assume that they are twisting a finger at their temples. I am very glad that your dad is alive, congratulations on the upcoming VICTORY DAY! Health, health, health!!!

Many people think that planting potatoes is a simple matter, but in order for the harvest to please, and the work not to be wasted, it must be done correctly. The result depends on many factors: the quality of the seed material, soil characteristics, planting technology.

The amount of harvest depends on the correct planting of potatoes

Preparing the seeds

Choice good seeds- half the battle. Procurement of planting material begins at the stage of autumn harvesting:

vegetables are sorted, separating smaller ones for planting, large ones, left for eating;
it is preferable to choose seeds from those bushes where the number of potatoes was maximum;
the optimal size of the tuber, with a diameter of 4-5 cm, approximately the size of a chicken egg;
you can take a little larger, they will ripen earlier, and the harvest on them will be a little more.

Potatoes that are too large can also be used as seed material, but certain varieties will end up with many small fruits, and the overrun will be significant.

Some gardeners believe that the lack of planting material can be filled by using cut potatoes into several parts. This option has the right to exist when there are not enough small-caliber seeds. In this case, after cutting, the parts must be dried in the sun, sprinkled with ash. But the result will please if the weather is dry and warm. A rainy spring can ruin all planting material: since the surface without skin is easily exposed to diseases, becomes infected with a fungus, and rots.

When buying seeds at retail outlets, you should not chase after super-elite varieties. They will give a good harvest, provided that agricultural technology is properly organized, but the most productive are the elite categories. It would be useful to familiarize yourself with the quality certificate, if the potato claims to be varietal, the seller must have this document. Otherwise, there is a risk of buying infected seeds, from which you will not only not wait for the harvest, but also the soil will have to be rid of pests and diseases for several years.

Potatoes for planting should not be too large

Before boarding

About a month before the potatoes are planted, they should be taken out of the cellar to “wake up” the tubers. Here, too, the process must be approached correctly:

the root crop is dipped in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection and put in boxes for germination in one layer;
for a week, planting material is kept at a temperature of at least 20 degrees;
in the future, it will be correct to lower the temperature to 10 degrees;
you should not keep a container with seeds in a dark place, then the sprouts will not stretch out, but will be strong and strong;
during this period, it must be periodically moistened with water and turned over.

Humidification is alternated with spraying with a solution of ash and a mineral complex of fertilizers. This will make it possible for the seed material to become healthy, saturate with nutrients.

When sprouts of at least 1 cm appear, you can start planting. Tubers should first be treated with copper-containing preparations to prevent early phytophthora.

Tip: Potatoes can be pickled to avoid infection of seeds. The solution is prepared from the calculation: boric acid(20 g) per 10 liters of water. Then the seeds are immersed in the liquid for a few seconds.

Suitable for planting tubers with sprouts of at least 1 cm

Site preparation

Well, if the soil in the garden is light loamy and sandy, drained peat lands and forest soils are perfect. heavy and acidic soils culture suffers worse. Acidity undesirable, potatoes grow worse on it, get sick more often, and pests attack weak plants. In this case, manure and lime will help improve the composition of the earth.

Rotation must be taken into account. A vegetable should not be planted earlier than 3 years after its previous planting. Good precursors for culture are:

cabbage;
carrot;
beet;
leafy vegetables.

It is especially important to prepare the ground:

The area intended for potatoes is cleared of tops and the remains of previous plants. To prevent diseases and pests from spreading, it must be burned.
It is necessary to fertilize the land with rotted organic matter: 3-4 kg of manure per m / sq.
Dig deep into the soil under the shovel. Large clods of earth do not need to be broken, melt water and the rains will do it themselves, but the earth will not cake and will be soft and fluffy.
With the onset of spring, add complex nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium fertilizers.
It is imperative to loosen the earth or dig it up again using a shovel to a depth of 10 cm.
If the site is located in a lowland, it is important to provide drainage to drain excess water.

The plot for potatoes should not be located in a damp place

When to plant

Landing time is a tricky issue. Depend on the area weather conditions, timing of culture maturation. You should not rush, it is better to wait for stable warm weather, but you don’t need to let the earth dry out too much either. Here you need to find the golden mean:

Folk wisdom advises planting a root crop when small leaves appear on the poplar and birch.
The best planting option is considered if the soil has warmed up to a depth of 10 cm to 10 degrees, and the average nighttime indicators also do not fall below.

If the tubers have sprouted, their sprouts are strong, then when the soil warms up to about 6 degrees, potatoes can be planted. Experienced gardeners they assure that the harvest only benefits from this.

A strong potato sprout can withstand temperatures not lower than +6 degrees

Landing technology

What should be considered when planting potatoes? First of all, the space between the rows. Usually the recommended width according to the scheme is 80x35. If you plant more often, then problems will arise:

the stems will darken each other, begin to stretch;
they will be poorly ventilated, and this is a direct road to late blight;
high-quality hilling will not work, as a result, some tubers will be open and turn green;
sufficient aeration of the soil will not be achieved.

But if there is little land, it is allowed to shorten the gap if early ripening varieties are used on fertile black soil: their tops are not very powerful and high, so 60 cm is enough between rows.

The quality of the crop depends on the distance between the tubers, Usually the average recommended width between the holes is 35 cm. But here, too, there are options:

small non-standard tubers are allowed to be planted at a distance of 20 cm;
an early variety allows a width of 26 cm (you can use a shovel as a guide: this is about one and a half bayonet);
late varieties and large tubers prefer planting at a distance of at least 30 cm;
if you plant potatoes on heavy soils large sizes, then the space should be increased to 45 cm.

Potato bushes should not be located close to each other

The depth of the holes also matters, the optimal depth of the root crop under the shovel is not less than 7 cm, but it makes no sense to plant more than 10 cm. Here, soil features also play a role, as does the size of potatoes:

large seed material should be properly planted deeper, small, higher to the surface;
for light fertile land, 10 cm is quite acceptable;
on dense clayey areas seeds are not buried deep, 5 cm is enough.

With any scheme, the rows should be even, and the depth should be the same. It is good if a pinch of fertilizer, ash and humus is added to the hole during planting. It is necessary to plant potatoes with a sprout down, a layer will remain under the tuber loose earth, then the bush will turn out sprawling, it will be well ventilated and illuminated.

After laying the seeds, they are covered with earth and leveled with a rake, mulched with peat.

If you plant potatoes, taking into account all the subtleties, then in the fall you can wait for an unprecedented harvest. Over time, experience and secrets of success will appear, then every year the result will please more and more.

Kira Stoletova

Knowledge of the characteristics of plant cultivation allows you to easily get bountiful harvest. How to correctly determine the distance between the rows of potatoes during planting? Let's analyze the most effective schemes.

Why determine the distance between rows

Root crops are easy to plant, which allows them to be grown both in large farms, as well as in small cottages. Farmers try to achieve the maximum return from each square meter.

The distance between potatoes during planting is a criterion that affects the volume and quality of the finished product. Subject to the rules, it turns out to distribute wisely usable area site. A well-thought-out bed provides easy access to each bush and does not complicate care.

Increasing or decreasing the category negatively affects the yield. Excessive planting density leads to the fact that each plant receives less nutrients, so the bushes grow weak and do not please with an abundance of fruits. An excess of free space is also dangerous: the culture goes to the tops, and the potatoes become huge and small.

On the crest

This is one of the main landing options. According to the method, the seeds are planted according to the scheme of 30 x 70 cm. The zone is carefully dug up, after which identical grooves are marked with twine and laid to a depth of 50 mm to 100 mm.

Pour 1 tbsp into each trench. l. ash and 0.5 shovels of humus. Tubers are placed on top, after which they are covered with soil. It is important to achieve a noticeable "ridge" on both sides, resembling the letter "M". The final height ranges from 0.25 m to 0.3 m.

The indicated distance when planting potatoes makes it easier to weed the plants from weeds. Under the boletus, the culture is safe from drying out in the heat and does not rot during the rains. The main advantages of the method:

early disembarkation;
rapid development of healthy bushes;
sun warming;
increase in productivity by 25%;
ease of cleaning.

Under a shovel

This is the simplest and most proven method of growing root crops. The distance between rows of potatoes should not be less than 70 cm, and the spacing of tubers from each other should be slightly more than 25. At the same time, attention is paid to the number of shoots on specimens: the more roots, the longer the distance.

Technology requires compliance optimal temperature. It is important that the soil has time to thaw and warm up to 8 ° C. During early work, waterlogging and freezing of crops is possible, late planting threatens with loss of moisture and precious time for formation.

in the trenches

For arid regions, this method is relevant. The distance between the rows of early potatoes should be standard - from 70 cm to 80 cm. In autumn, ditches are dug 300 mm deep. Organic fertilizers are laid at the bottom:

ash;
manure;
compost;
wet hay.

After a few months, the nutrient pad will settle, after which the tubers are planted. Seeds are placed in holes at a distance of 0.3 m from each other, crushed from above with loose soil. If you apply fertilizer in the fall, then during the entire development season, additional dressings will not be required. The surface is mulched and then watered.

The method is not popular in less hot regions, because there is a possibility of waterlogging the crop. To prevent this from happening, it is recommended to dig grooves around the edges to drain moisture.

in a container

What distance is needed when planting potatoes in boxes? Passages from 60 cm to 90 cm are kept between the boxes, which need to be mulched. The height of the structure should reach standard 300 mm, and the width should be up to 1 m. The container is filled with fertilizers according to the scheme:

straw;
manure;
priming.

In one box, no more than 2 rows are made, the tubers are planted in a checkerboard pattern. The interval from one bush to another is 30 cm. Thanks to the technique, the plants receive a sufficient amount of ultraviolet light and retain nutrients, which allows increasing yields.

planting depth

There is another important factor, influencing the maximum return from plants. Depending on the variety and size of the seed material, the optimal distance of the depth of the potato is calculated. Small specimens have an insignificant supply of nutrients, so professionals plant them in holes up to 12 cm.

Huge tubers have enough energy, which allows you to easily overcome planting over 100 mm. Dutch hybrids are grown in high beds - 0.2 m. Domestic selection not ready for such experiments.

In addition to calculating the distance of a potato bed, farmers do not always guess with depth. The germinated material is planted in holes that do not interfere with the processes. To prevent rotting, when planting in parts, a minimum deepening is allowed.

Be sure to ensure the same depth of planting potatoes over the entire area of \u200b\u200bthe plot.

For different types soils have their own requirements. For clay, incorporation up to 7 cm is suitable, and loamy and heavy soils require holes up to 10. In sandy lands, it is advised to place more than 11 cm in the hole. Knowledge of the features allows you to retain moisture and heat, and also provides natural aeration of the roots.

Distance between tubers

Having determined what distance is needed between the beds of potatoes, it is easy to deal with the gap between root crops. According to technology, per 1 sq. m plant about 6 pcs.

If the row spacing is 70 cm, the distance between the holes will be 25 or 30 cm. Professionals call this indicator the width of the shovel bayonet. This scheme offers a dense planting of bushes, which is not suitable for all farmers. A decrease in yield is possible, it will not be very comfortable to care for the bushes.

If the tubers are located 60 cm apart, it is important to correctly calculate the usable area. Not always the numbers obtained will allow you to get the maximum return. With a considerable distance (up to 1 m), the tops develop well, but few tubers form.

It depends on the varieties what distance to choose between potato rows and root crops. For early varieties, a distance of up to 30 cm is relevant. Late options are always planted over a large gap - from 35 to 45 cm.

If there is no proper care for the crop, the correct distance when planting potatoes will not save you from crop loss.

Crop rotation in the garden makes it possible to prevent the weakening of root crops. Potato beds are planted where friendly plants grew last season. Recommended crops include:

cucumbers;
beets;
carrot;
salad;
cabbage.

When choosing the optimal distance between the rows of potatoes, you need to remember that the line with furrows has a direction from north to south. Thanks to this trick, the sun will illuminate the bushes throughout the daylight hours. If you change the side, part of the culture will begin to languish from the heat, and part will starve from the lack of the sun.

An important period in the development of crops is flowering. At this time, the plants provide thorough watering. The lack of moisture affects the volume end products. Stagnation of fluid near the furrows and holes is the cause of rotting.

A rich harvest is the merit of an attentive agrarian. Knowing the distance between the rows when planting potatoes, it is easy to avoid common cultivation mistakes.

We plant potatoes on a rope. The distance from one tuber to another is about 35-45 cm. But they didn’t specifically measure between the rows, but it turns out like this: we plant a row of potatoes, dig the next row, filling the potatoes and dig the second row idlequot ;. And in the third row we plant tubers again. Well, in fact, it comes out about 60 cm.

There are two methods of planting potatoes that most use on small areas. This landing is discharged and compact. In the first case, if space permits, potatoes are planted in rows, and the distance between the rows is greater than the distance between the bushes in the row. The first is 25-35 centimeters, the second is from 50 centimeters. This makes it easy to later process potatoes - weed and hill up, creating the very hills in which most tubers will form. The second method of landing in a limited space in groups. On a small area, 6-8 potatoes are planted almost closely, then a meter recedes and a bunch is created again. The space is used more economically, although the yield may be slightly lower. However, this method is ideal for summer cottages when potatoes are grown not for storage, but for cooking immediately after digging.

We plant like this : if potatoes early variety, then the distance between the tubers is 25 cm, we measure the first row with a centimeter and then plant it equal to the first row, and the distance between the rows is 60 cm, but if we plant potatoes of late varieties, then the distance between the tubers is 35 cm, we also measure with a centimeter and equal to the first measured row, and the distance between rows is 70 cm.

Planting depth of tubers is 8-10 cm.

In general, the distance can be different. It all depends on the required landing density and the availability of landing space. We usually use a distance between rows equal to 1-1.5 times the length of the metal part of the shovel. And between the bushes 0.5-1 length.

I plant early potatoes in the dacha in the combs. The distance between the ridges is 70-80 centimeters, between plants 30-40 centimeters. I plant later varieties just solid in the field. Between rows 60-70 centimeters, between plants 40-50. With dense plantings, potatoes must be watered so that the plants have enough moisture, be sure to loosen and spud. If the care and land is good, those potatoes will grow with denser plantings, only it will be more difficult to process them.

When we planted potatoes, as a rule, we made a small distance between the tubers, about thirty centimeters. Here, between the rows of potatoes, we retreated more. About seventy centimeters, well, about twice as much as between the tubers

25 centimeters between tubers is too little. The roots and tubers of potatoes will not have enough nutrition with such a close planting and the harvest will be appropriate - small potatoes.

At least 30 - 35 centimeters should be the distance between the tubers, and between the rows - 1 step (70 - 80 cm).

The distance between the rows of potatoes and individual tubers depends on the method of planting this beloved crop. Here, for example, with such an unconventional method of planting as slidequot ;, the distance between the tubers is only 20-25 centimeters. When landing in the barrel the distance between the tubers is at least half a meter, and between the rows - up to one meter.

The photo shows a method of growing potatoes in straw. The distance between the tubers is 30-50 centimeters, and between the rows - up to seventy centimeters.

Landing tape method a distance of 110 centimeters is left between the ribbons, and at least thirty centimeters between two rows in the ribbon.

We often use the traditional method of growing potatoes, in which the distance between the tubers is up to seventy centimeters, and between the rows - at least a meter, so that the bushes can be well hilled.

And another point: early potatoes are planted more often than mid-season and late varieties.

We follow the following rule in the country: the rows are located at a distance of seventy to eighty centimeters (usually seventy) from each other, the distance between the tubers in a row when planted under a plow is about forty to forty-five centimeters. When planting under a shovel, pits are dug to the width of the shovel, the distance between the pits is close to each other (the distance between the tubers is approximately the same: 40-45 cm).

Usually when we plant potatoes on a plot, we measure the distance from hole to hole in steps, usually we measure two steps from one hole to another, we also do it with rows, we also separate the distance from one to another row in two steps. The most important thing is that the holes and rows are not crowded.

Gardeners already have a trained eye, and of course, before planting potatoes, they mark out their site and for this they make grooves, along which they subsequently plant potatoes.

And in order to increase the yield, after planting, the holes with potatoes are sprinkled with a small layer of peat a couple of centimeters.

The correct distance between rows with potatoes is seventy-five centimeters for early potatoes. And ninety centimeters for late varieties of potatoes.

But the planting density will directly depend on the size of the potato tubers. Small tubers should be planted after twenty centimeters, and large ones after thirty centimeters.

The depth depends on the soil, and can be from six to ten centimeters.