Do I need to prune lilies after flowering and dig up bulbs for the winter? Lilies - dig bulbs for the winter or leave in the soil

Lily - the brightest garden flower with a dizzying aroma that is the pride of any garden plot or park. Today we will talk about caring for lilies in the fall, preparing for winter.

perennial lilies different types can be found in every front garden or flower bed, and even in a flowerpot. The richness of the color palette, the shape of the flowers and the height of the plants allow you to choose lilies for any style of landscape design.

unpretentious bright flowers perfectly tolerate the harsh Russian winter and delight with flowering all summer.

Some plant heads are dug up and stored in a cool place until spring. Other lilies are left to winter under the snow.

The gardener begins to take care of the winter period in the life of a lily in the summer. Preparation begins from the moment the last buds on the flower wither. Various varieties and hybrids have different flowering periods in open field, but by mid-August, all lilies are already losing their flower petals.

Do I need to dig up plant bulbs in the fall?

It is not necessary to do this annually. The bulbs overwinter well in the soil. Sometimes it is necessary to cover the soil where the flower is planted for insulation with sawdust, peat or spruce branches.

The exception is capricious oriental lilies and tubular. They can winter in the soil only in the south of our country and in middle lane under cover. In regions with a harsh climate (north, Siberia), the plant is dug out of the soil after the first frost and stored in the basement until May.

Asian lilies and lily Marlene hybrid(the famous multi-flowered lily) do not require such care. Bulbs are removed from the ground only once every 4-5 years, when it is time to transplant the plant to a new place.

The lily is dug up in early autumn, the bulbs are pickled in a fungicide solution and dried. Children are separated from the mother plant. store planting material until spring in moss or slightly damp sawdust, in a dark and cool place.

Autumn top dressing

After flowering, the lily must be fed phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. They contribute to a better ripening of the bulb and the accumulation of substances necessary for a successful wintering.

For 1 sq. a meter of soil area is taken:

• 30-40 g of superphosphate (or 20 g of double superphosphate);
• 35 g of potassium magnesia or potassium sulfate.

The introduction of top dressing contributes to the receipt of nutrients and nutrients to the bulbs.

Fertilizer powder is scattered around the flowers, the earth is slightly loosened to a depth of 4 cm and the flower garden is watered abundantly.

Instead of superphosphate and potassium magnesia, special fertilizers can be used to autumn feeding bulb flowers. AT garden shops sell the corresponding mixtures under the brands of Kemir, Fertik.

Nitrogen fertilizers and manure are not applied under lilies in autumn. Nitrogen contributes to the active growth of greenery, which is not necessary in autumn.

For supporters of organic farming, it is recommended to add to the soil:

• bone meal rich in phosphorus,
• wood ash containing potassium.

Both powders consume 100 g per square meter.

Only ash obtained from burning wood or grass (hay, fallen leaves) is suitable for fertilizer. Ash from paper, polyethylene, plastic is poisonous!

2-3 weeks after fertilizing, the soil around the plants is shed with a Bordeaux mixture. You can buy it ready-made in the store or make it yourself from an aqueous solution of lime and copper sulfate.

Bordeaux mixture has a disinfectant effect and destroys pathogens of fungal diseases, pests. Fluid consumption - at least 10 liters per 1 sq. m.

Plants that are not planned to be dug up for the winter should be processed.

Pruning lilies in autumn

Do not rush to trim the lily after flowering. For some time after flowering, nutrients are drained from the stem and leaves into the bulb and photosynthesis continues. For the gardener, the protruding stem also serves as a guide to the place where the lily grows.

So that protruding unsightly “sticks” do not spoil the look of the flower garden, fast-growing annual flowers are planted around the lily (fragrant tobacco, asters, dahlias Cheerful guys). Annual greenery will hide faded lilies.

We cut the plant on time, otherwise we can harm it.

Starting from the end of September, with the onset of the first cold weather, we cut the stems with secateurs.

The height of the pruning of a lily wintering in the soil is 5-10 cm. The tops of the plant are not left in place, but burned. This measure will destroy pests that may be hiding in the leaves and stem of the lily.

Shelter lilies for the winter

After pruning, it's time to cover the lilies. The operation is carried out when the daytime air temperature no longer rises above 0 degrees. Flowers can be covered:

• wood shavings;
• peat;
• humus;
• fallen oak leaves (it is believed that oak leaves have disinfectant properties).

Humus that has lain for at least 3 years, in addition to the protective function, provides additional nutrition to the plant.

Shelter with coniferous branches step by step:

Slightly loosen the soil around the bush and fill the place where the bulbs are with a layer of humus.

Top with pine or spruce branches.

On a note! Coniferous branches repel rodents and pests, create reliable protection for the flower from frost. Snow easily lingers on such a shelter and provides additional and reliable insulation.

The layer of shelter should be from 7 to 20 cm, depending on what frosts can happen in this area. In the spring, with the advent of heat, the shelter should be removed. Do this gradually so as not to damage the lily sprouts with recurrent cold weather.

Video: preparing lilies for winter

Do lilies need to be watered in the fall?

Since the beginning of September, lilies do not need watering. Too much moisture in the soil can cause the bulbs to rot. If the weather is rainy in autumn, arrange around the flower garden drainage grooves and often loosen the ground, giving the roots access to air.

In the south of our country, autumn is hot and rainless. In this case, 1-2 waterings in September - early October will be useful.

When to dig up non-hardy varieties of lilies?

Bulb digging begins after the first frost.

In the middle lane, Moscow region right time- mid-October. In the Leningrad region, lilies are removed from the ground a week - ten days earlier.

In the Urals and Siberia soil temperature drops to critical levels for flowers already in mid-September. It is impossible to be late with the harvesting of the bulbs.

In the southern regions of Russia the climate allows even heat-loving varieties of lilies to be left in the ground.

Define exact time for digging up heat-loving varieties of lilies, observing the weather in a particular area will help. Within the same region, the temperature difference can reach 10 degrees, which must be taken into account in gardening.

Preparing lily bulbs for winter

Lilies are dug up with a pitchfork, retreating from the stem 12-15 cm and immersing the tool to a depth of 25-30 cm.

The bulbs of the plant extracted from the soil are cleaned from the ground, the roots and stems are cut off. The baby is separated from the adult bulb. Planting material is inspected, scales of bulbs are removed from dark spots(beginning of rot) and mold.

After inspection, the bulbs are kept in a fungicide solution to kill pathogens. Use:

• saturated pink solution of potassium permanganate;
• drug Maxim;
• fundazol.

Processing time - 30 minutes. After that, the lilies are dried in the air. Before storage, you can powder the sifted onions wood ash.

Store lilies in a cool and dark place, at a temperature not higher than +10 degrees. Planting material is wrapped in newspaper, wrapped in moss or dipped in sawdust. To prevent the bulbs from drying out, moss or sawdust is lightly sprinkled with water during the entire storage period. You can cover the boxes with lilies with a damp coarse cloth that allows air to pass through (burlap, darnit).

From proper care for lilies in autumn, preparation for winter, their magnificent flowering next year depends. Do not be lazy and complete the autumn work to the fullest!

Dahlias are a perennial crop, but tubers cannot be left in the open field for the winter, as they cannot stand low temperatures. After the first autumn frosts, plant stems should be spudded so as not to damage the growth points with frost. After the stems are beaten by frost, you can dig up dahlias. Depending on the region, this time falls on the end of September-beginning of October.

The tuber of this plant grows quite large, so special care must be taken when digging. Digging up the plant is better with two people. From all sides, you should dig a flower, remove it entirely from the soil with the root and let it dry. Do not pull on the stems - this can damage the plant and rot can subsequently develop at the fracture site. After that, it is necessary to cut the stems of the plant with secateurs at a distance of 15-20 cm from the root collar and tie tags indicating the name of the variety or its characteristics - in this case, there will be no confusion when planting.

After the tubers have dried, you should clean off excess soil from them, rinse well in running water and dry. Some flower growers recommend immediately dividing the bush and cutting off excess roots, but this procedure is fraught with complications and the death of all planting material. It is better to leave this work for the spring - before planting, inspect and cut out sore spots, cut off extra roots, and divide the tuber. All cuts must be sprinkled with wood ash, and the knife must first be disinfected with alcohol or by calcination.

How to store dahlia tubers

Before storage, tubers must be treated for infections. To do this, place them for 10-15 minutes in a strong solution of potassium permanganate, then dry for 7-10 days in the shade until complete drying. If there is no special place for storing dahlias, it is better to process the tubers in liquid paraffin - in this case they will not dry out, will not germinate ahead of time and will be well preserved even in room conditions. To do this, melt the paraffin in a water bath and dip the whole tuber into it, including root collar. In the spring, the sprouts that appear will easily break through a thin paraffin crust.

If there is a cold basement, dahlia tubers should be laid out in one layer in wooden boxes, sprinkle with dry sand or sawdust from coniferous trees. Before storage, you can powder them with wood ash. Optimal Humidity for storage of tubers should be within 55-60% and air temperature + 4-6oC. In winter, it is necessary to regularly check the safety of planting material, reject or isolate rotten or dried tubers.

To better store dahlia tubers, you should stop watering the plants 2-3 weeks before digging. Before storing, after processing the tubers, you should carefully evaluate the quality of the planting material and, without regret, discard dubious specimens with rot spots and signs of disease. You can use the following method: lower the tubers into a deep container of water. Those that remain on the surface are not suitable for storage.

By following these rules, you can successfully store dahlia tubers for a long time without experiencing disappointment.

Summer residents very often grow lilies on the site. This elegant flower is impossible not to love. But not many people know what the proper care of lilies after flowering should be. What should be done to save the bulbs until next year, and not buy new planting material every spring?

Asian lilies

From experienced gardeners you can hear opposing opinions on how to prepare lilies for the cold after flowering. Some argue that you can leave the plant as it is, it will cope with the impending frosts. Others are sure that only cleaning the bulbs for the winter indoors allows you to get new harvest. Such disagreements arise, obviously, when it comes to different varieties colors. After all, among the lilies there are really delicate varieties that need to be dug up or grown only in heated greenhouses.

Before deciding how the plant will overwinter, you need to create conditions for good growth and bulb development. The main mistake of novice flower growers is pruning after flowering, as soon as the plant has ceased to delight with bright opened buds. Under no circumstances should this be done. Only at first glance it seems that bare sticks, which do not look at all aesthetically pleasing against the background of other lush greenery, do not carry any important function.

In fact, the process of photosynthesis takes place in the stems. Without it, the normal growth of the bulb is impossible, since the underground part of the plant cannot receive the necessary nutrition on its own. Pruning lilies will stop development, it will not be able to overwinter and release new shoots.

Therefore, the owners of flowers will require minimal participation. After the petals fall, it is enough to remove the seed box, leaving the green mass intact. If you want the site to be beautiful, you can plant a row of decorative annuals in front, which will bloom after the lilies wither.

How to fertilize lilies in the second half of summer

Lily can not be called an easy-to-care plant. It needs systematic proper processing during the entire vegetative period. Lilies need to be fed periodically even after flowering. To form a strong quality bulb you need to use fertilizers based on potassium and phosphorus.
But mineral supplements Not needed. They give a short-term effect. The bulb needs a constant supply of nutrients while it is gaining strength.

After the lilies have faded, it is useful to fertilize with organic matter. But you can not use or compost. The active substances contained in them can cause burns and damage to the bulb. As a result, infectious diseases will begin to develop. As a result, the plant will completely die. As organic food you need to use special industrial solutions for gardeners. With it, the bulb will get stronger, useful substances will last for a long time. Thanks to organics, they are born flower buds, which will quickly grow in the spring.

When to dig up lily bulbs

How to dig up lily bulbs

The need to remove lily bulbs from the ground depends on the variety. There are some varieties that were bred specifically for areas with harsh winters. They can be left in the ground, previously covered with armfuls of fallen leaves. But most varieties are still not frost-resistant. They can only survive at positive temperatures, for example, in a refrigerator or a dry basement.

Lilies should be dug up no earlier than a month after the end of flowering. Approximately this period falls on the first half of August. The main signal that it is time to store the bulbs is the complete wilting of the leaves and stems. When the green part is no longer left, the bulb has nowhere to draw strength from for further growth.

The process of preparing lily bulbs for winter storage goes like this:

• before digging up the bulbs, cut off the dead stems;
• the bulb is taken out along with a clod of earth, so as not to damage the annual roots located almost at the surface;
• the earth is gently shaken off, while examining the bulb for damage, rotten roots, dry scales; if any of these are found, the bad parts are immediately removed;
• then the bulbs are washed in running water;
• in order to reduce the risk of fungus and infections, the bulbs are soaked for half an hour in a solution of potassium permanganate or another disinfectant;
• after disinfection, the bulbs are thoroughly dried in the open air, avoiding contact with sun rays.

How to store lily bulbs in winter

In order for the plants to rejoice with flawless buds with a vein, it is not enough to care for lilies immediately after the flowering process. The main condition for good plant growth is the proper storage of bulbs during the cold season.

The best place for wintering would be an unheated cellar. The bulbs are put in boxes, sprinkled with a mixture of peat, sand and sawdust.

The second option is to store them in boxes, covering them with a layer of moss or a piece of burlap. If this is not possible, you can put them in a bag with the same substrate and send them to the bottom shelf of the refrigerator.

How to cover lilies in the beds

If we are talking about varieties that can overwinter in the beds in this region, then it is also necessary to properly prepare the lilies for frost. The best cover for bulbs is good layer soft fluffy snow, at least 10 cm. But there is always a chance hard frosts before such a layer falls out. in this case, in autumn, the place where the lilies are planted is covered with needles, foliage or peat. The needles are the best. Under it, slugs do not remain to winter, which in the spring can destroy the young shoots of the plant. In severe frosts, the layer of snow can be increased independently.

In the spring, you should not miss the moment when it's time to remove the shelter. Harvesting too early can cause seedlings that have hatched to be damaged by overnight frosts. But it's also not worth the hassle. Due to the lack of sunlight, sprouts reaching for the light will turn out to be thin and frail.

Caring for lilies after flowering is quite simple. Do not cut the stems, feed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers, cover or dig up the bulbs.

Low-growing varieties are suitable for flowerpots and borders, from tall plants various shades can make a wonderful composition for a flower bed. Choosing the Right Plants different terms flowering, they will delight your eye all summer.

Autumn is coming, and the florist has new worries: how the plants will endure the winter and whether they will be just as beautiful next year. Anxiety is in vain, with proper care, lilies will winter well. Use our tips, and next summer your flower beds will become even more magnificent and brighter.

Should I cook or not?

If a novice florist asks his friends if lilies need care in the fall and preparation for winter, he will receive a variety of answers. Some carry out this work very carefully, others will say that nothing needs to be done, the bulbs will winter well anyway. In part, this statement is true: nature has endowed its creatures with great vitality, you can do nothing to help your flowers survive the cold season.

You can also not water, loosen or feed them - the bulk of the plants will still survive. Just don't be surprised when next year instead of pompously flowering bush you will see some stunted flowers. How you take care of your pets is how they will thank you.

For those who prefer to contemplate a multi-colored flower bed without any effort, it is better to immediately abandon the lilies and plant more hardy flowers.

If you want to enjoy a bright, lush bouquet, spare no effort in preparing the plants for winter.

Even if you live in an area where there is no severe frost, protect the bulbs from mice and spring flooding.

When to start preparing lilies for winter?

Spring, summer or autumn? A good grower starts this work already at the time of landing. Determine how deep they are ground water if they are close to the surface, when the snow melts, the bulbs will be in the water and may rot. In this case, arrange drainage or plant flowers in high beds.

Do I need to dig up lilies for the winter?

If you don't live in the far north, many varieties of lilies overwinter well in the ground. Asian hybrids, Martagon, Royal and Dahurian lily adapted to frosty climates, and shelter will help them survive extreme cold. Of course, if you have a very rare plant valuable variety , and even in a single copy, it is better not to risk it and keep the bulb at home.

Another thing - American, and Oriental hybrids, they are more tender and can die even when good insulation . Those who have a greenhouse can grow these varieties there, and if this is not possible, in the fall you need to dig up the bulbs and store them indoors.

IMPORTANT! Some varieties, such as Asian hybrids, need to be dug up not only to protect against the cold, but also to heal the plant. In the summer, their bulbs produce many babies, which during the winter will grow so tightly to the mother bulb that it will be impossible to separate them.

In the spring, they will begin to take a significant share of the water and nutrients intended for the main plant. The lily will begin to weaken, grow poorly and bloom. The rhizomes of such varieties in the fall must be dug up and freed from the children, and then decide whether they will winter in the ground or indoors.

Care

Step-by-step care for lilies in the fall and preparation for winter:

pruning

In autumn, you need to cut off the above-ground part of the plants, leaving the stems 10 cm long. When is the best time to do this?

In the middle of summer, there are no more flowers, only empty stems remain, which are difficult to mistake for a decorative element.

Maybe remove them immediately after flowering?

ATTENTION! Do not make such a mistake, trust nature, which does nothing in vain. If the stems and leaves were not needed by the plant, they would die back in the summer.

After flowering, the bulb accumulates the nutrients necessary for the development of the plant in next year and photosynthesis takes place in the aerial part. You need to cut the stems when they begin to dry out naturally.

top dressing

The lilies have faded, and the plant begins serious job for bulb formation. Feed the plant, now it really needs nutrients. A good rhizome is formed if immediately after flowering and in early September, add potash and phosphate fertilizers , and lilies do not need nitrogen at this time. You can use this recipe:

Take 5 liters hot water and dissolve in it 1 teaspoon of superphosphate and potassium salt. Pour in 0.5 l warm solution under each bush, and the next day loosen the ground.

How to cover lilies for the winter?

Do I need to cover lilies for the winter? This question is asked by many beginner gardeners. And the answer is extremely simple. Cover the bulbs with leaves, sawdust, or straw to keep the bulbs from freezing during frosty winters.

ATTENTION! The best option- needles, slugs, for which young shoots are a favorite delicacy, will not crawl into this prickly shelter. Mice and other rodents also do not like sharp needles. The thickness of the mulch layer is about 10 cm, cut stems will serve as a measure.

Keep in mind that snow is also an excellent insulation, if the snowdrift above your flower bed is expected to be high, the mulch layer may be small, if the snow barely covers the ground, bury the plants thoroughly. This work is best done in late autumn, when the topsoil begins to freeze slightly.

Moisture protection

In warm regions, Oriental hybrids can also be left for wintering in the ground, but some features of these varieties must be taken into account.

You can perfectly warm the plants, the winter will not be frosty and very snowy, and the lilies will still die or get sick.

The reason is not that the bulbs were cold, but that they do not tolerate excessive moisture, melt water just flooded them.

Do you want these hybrids all year round were in open ground - take care of this when landing. Arrange for plants high bed or special mounds, into the wells put sand under the roots, and sprinkle them on top of the onion. The entire underground part will be, as it were, in a sand bag, which will remove excess moisture from it.

How to properly prepare lilies and others bulbous plants for wintering in the open field, you can watch this video:

Wintering in the ground bulbs of tender varieties

You can also try leave in the soil for the winter Oriental hybrids and in more frosty regions, but you need to warm them very carefully.

Cover the bed with peat before frost. When the ground freezes, cover it with a thick layer of foliage, needles or sawdust, and put a film on top that will protect against melting spring waters. In the spring, remove only the film and leaves, and peat will serve as fertilizer.

IMPORTANT! There is no guarantee that tender bulbs will overwinter without loss.

When to open lilies?

It is important not only to cover the lilies in time, but also to remove the insulation in time. This should be done immediately after the snow melts in the flower bed. If you dig up the snow and open the plants too early, the bright spring sun will provoke early development sprouts and can be damaged by frost. If you are late with the cleaning of the mulch, due to the lack of light, the aerial part of the plants will grow and develop poorly.

bulb preparation

You decided not to risk it and keep the lily bulbs at home.

For points on how to prepare lilies for wintering, you can read here:

1. In autumn, when the stems and leaves begin to die, cut off the dried above-ground part plants.
2. Dig up the lilies and carefully shake off the roots from the adhering earth.
3. Thoroughly rinse bulbs in water room temperature , separate diseased rhizomes and burn them to destroy the infection. In healthy specimens, cut off damaged roots and dry scales.
4. For disinfection half an hour hold the bulbs in a weak solution of potassium permanganate, fundazol or karbofos.
5. Dry the rhizomes in a ventilated place protected from sunlight. Do not rub or heat the bulbs, it is better to spend extra time drying naturally than to damage the buds and roots.

ATTENTION! Do not overdo it, your task is to rid the bulbs only of surface moisture, and the scales and roots should remain juicy.

If you have carefully completed all the steps preparatory work, the bulbs are ready to survive the winter at home. It remains to properly save them, and in the spring you can plant healthy strong rhizomes in the ground. They take root well and sprout quickly.

Wintering at home

The main task of the grower when storing lily bulbs indoors is choose the right place for their wintering. You need to follow two basic rules: the room should be cool with a temperature slightly above zero, and with normal humidity. If the latter condition cannot be met, a dry place is preferable.

In this case, so that the bulbs do not dry out, you can cover them with damp moss or a cloth. In a room that is too humid, it is more difficult to store them, the rhizomes may become moldy or begin to develop sprouts.

In a refrigerator

You can put the bulbs in a bag with wet peat and put on the bottom shelf of the refrigerator. In this case, try not to store fruits in the same refrigerator, they release ethylene, which is harmful to lilies.

In the garage, basement, cellar

This method of storage is acceptable if the room is sufficiently thermally insulated, and in severe frosts the temperature in it does not fall much below zero.

Pour into the bottom of a box or container a layer of wet peat or sand, lay out a layer of bulbs and cover it the same material. You can make several of these rows, and cover the top layer with wet burlap.

On the balcony or loggia

If the house has absolutely no suitable place for lilies, arrange storage on the balcony.

For this, any box with thermal insulation is suitable, for example, the body of an unusable refrigerator.

It is better to install it near the wall of the building, its warmth will provide additional protection from the cold.

IMPORTANT! Watch the weather, in a severe cold, the bulbs can freeze.

Craft lovers can improve the design. Install a thermometer and some incandescent bulbs inside. If the temperature begins to drop dangerously, turn on the lamps, they will serve as heaters.

Have you bought bulbs in winter?

Not only do-it-yourself lilies winter indoors. Sometimes you have to save the bulbs that you have in the winter. Try not to keep them warm and immediately remove to the same places where the planting material, harvested in the fall, lies.

Lilies of resistant varieties can be buried in the ground and buried with a deep layer of snow, but for winter conditions this work is too laborious. Better prepare for similar situation and in the fall, dig a shallow hole, covered with a lid. Strengthen the walls from shedding, and put poison from rodents, who will definitely like this warm apartment.

IMPORTANT! Don't forget to arrange drainage so as not to flood the bulbs in the spring.

Fold the planting material to the bottom, insulate from above cardboard boxes, sawdust or peat, close the lid, put a film on top and throw it with snow.

winter care

Do not leave the bulbs unattended, periodically check their condition. If the roots and scales begin to dry out, moisten them if mold appears, dip in a concentrated solution of potassium permanganate. In the spring, inspect the bulbs again, discard diseased specimens. Before planting, trim the roots, leaving a length of 5 cm.


Not only in one article, but in a whole book, it is impossible to give comprehensive recommendations on how best to help lilies survive the cold season.

It is necessary to take into account the variety, and the growing region, and the climate, and the forecast for next winter, and the soil, and many other conditions.

Take our advice as a basis and watch your pets.

Over time, you will begin to understand them, select the most suitable ways for your conditions to prepare plants for winter. The most important thing is to love flowers, then they will give you magnificent bouquets and a great mood for many years.

Lily is a plant that has long won the love of flower growers. Many colors, shades and shapes of buds delight their owners. There are up to 100 species of this flower in the world, and there are more and more hybrids and varieties every year. In our country, lilies grow throughout the territory, whether it is Kamchatka or Krasnodar region. Lilies are grown not only to decorate the backyard, but also for the purpose of doing business, which brings considerable income to its owners.

Variety of popular plant

There are both wild types of lilies and artificially bred ones. Breeders of the world divide lilies into 9 species forms:

• Wild (curly, Dahurian, saffron);
• Asian hybrids;
• Hybrids Martalon;
• Snow-white hybrids;
• American hybrids;
• Longiflorum hybrids;
• tubular lilies;
• Eastern hybrids;
• Interspecific hybrids (LA, OT, OA hybrids).

On the household plots most often grown wild lilies, which do not require careful personal care. They only need to be transplanted to a new place every 3-4 years, dividing the bulbs. If these lilies grow for a long time in one place, then they thicken with young plants, bloom little and become weak. These types of lilies easily tolerate severe frosts and do not require soil cover for the winter, much less digging out bulbs.

Asian hybrids

Asian hybrids are also common in garden plots our country. These hybrids were bred in Europe, but in their genetic chain they have all the same wild-growing relatives. Moreover, this type of lily has up to 40 varietal colors and shapes. Allocate:

• undersized;
• Tall;
• With simple inflorescences;
• With terry buds.

The only difference between Asian hybrids and other species is their lack of; aroma. In care, they are not whimsical, they grow in lit places, periodically require seating, the bulbs overwinter excellently in the soil. Only in the most severe frosts is it necessary to add more snow to the place where young bulbs grow. Asian hybrids reproduce most often by division or by young baby bulbs.

LA - hybrids

LA - hybrids - lilies, bred by crossing langiflorum - hybrids with Asian hybrids. This variety is distinguished by large flowers with a unique aroma, which are formed up to 10 pieces on one peduncle.

There are several types of LA - hybrids:

Early varieties blooming in the first half of summer;
Medium varieties, the flowering of which occurs in the month of July;
Late varieties blooming in August-September.

Flower buds of Asian hybrids are large, bloom for a long time, suitable for cutting and arranging bouquets. But the beauty of these plants requires special attention. Plants are susceptible to various viral diseases, do not tolerate sudden temperature changes in the atmosphere and do not survive in winter at sufficiently low temperatures.

If in the southern part of Russia these plants can be preserved in the soil in winter by covering the bulbs with an additional layer of soil, mulch or spruce branches, then in Siberia it is worth digging up the bulbs and storing them in the basement or in the refrigerator.

OT - hybrids

crazy beautiful plants with huge flowers and an indescribable aroma. OT - hybrids obtained by crossing Oriental lilies and tubular lilies. But for all their royal beauty, OT - hybrids are not popular with amateur flower growers. They are too finicky to grow. For planting, you need to choose places that are sufficiently lit with good light nutrient soil. FROM - hybrids do not tolerate excess moisture, drought, severe frosts. And as a result, the bulbs of these lilies must be dug up on winter period, they should never be left in the soil, they are subject to freezing.

Caring for OT and LA bulbs - hybrids

It is necessary to dig up plant bulbs from the soil before the first frost. It is best to do this in warm, dry weather, at noon.

After the bulbs are dug out, they should be dried in the sun, shake off the excess earth and put in a box in rows, sprinkling the layers with dry peat or moss.

Bulbs damaged or with traces of rot should be cleaned and treated with dry potassium permanganate powder. Such specimens are best stored separately and planted away from healthy plants.

It is best to store the bulbs in a cool place where there is no solar or electric light. The temperature must not exceed +7 °C and the room must be dry. In this way, the bulbs are stored until the onset of warm spring days, with the onset of which they are again planted in the ground.

Tip for beginner flower growers - you need to start your acquaintance with lilies with varieties of Asian hybrids that are less whimsical.

Subject to proper care, lilies give their owners a powerful, bright, long-lasting bloom, pleasing the eyes and creating a holiday for others.