Diseases of peach trees. Peach leaf curl - control measures. Video “Proper care of peach”

Peach is a tender tree that is afraid of frost, various pests and, of course, diseases. One of the most typical and dangerous is peach leaf curl. What it is and how to deal with it, we will tell you further.

Did you know? It is not known for certain where the peach spread throughout the world. Researchers have determined that the closest species to it is the wild peach Prunus davidiana Franch, which is found near Beijing (China). But it is believed that the plant penetrated from northwestern India to Persia, from where it then spread throughout Europe. In Italy, the peach first appeared in the middle of the 1st century. Now actively cultivated in warm parts Eurasia and America.

What is peach leaf curl?

The disease is considered the most common and is among the leaders in the frequency of damage to peach trees. It appears on shoots and young leaves. Moreover, if the leaves are already 2 weeks old, their chance of contracting the disease is minimal. Most often they get sick at the age of 5 – 8 days.

The disease manifests itself in the form of bubbly swellings on the leaves. At first they are light green in color, then become amber-red and then brown. A waxy coating appears on them, where the fungal spores ripen.

The bubbles become brittle, and the leaves themselves thicken, dry out, turn black and crumble. First the lower ones, then in the middle of the shoot. As a result, several leaves remain on its tip, and it looks like a brush. As a rule, one- and two-year-old shoots are affected.

The branches themselves are also affected by the disease. They become yellowish, thicken, bend, and eventually dry out completely. Internodes become thicker and shorter. Accordingly, on next year a tree that has no shoots from last year does not bear fruit.

With severe damage, the buds die off already in the first year of infection, without bearing fruit. If they manage to form, they also turn out to be deformed.

Did you know? The source of infection is the spores of Taphrina deformans, a marsupial fungus. Tree infection occurs once a year, in the spring. The spores penetrate inside the buds, as well as into cracks and wounds of the shoots, from which gum begins to ooze. Affected leaves become a breeding ground for new spores, which disperse throughout the tree bark, where they overwinter, and begin a new cycle of infection in the spring. Taphrina deformans mainly affects fruit trees, but most often nectarines and peaches.

If you do not spray your peach against curl in time, you may have a completely bare tree in your garden as early as May. It is weakening and may not survive the frosts of next winter.

Preventive measures against curliness

The first and main preventive measure to combat curliness is choosing the right place to plant peach. It must grow by sunny side, dry place and at a considerable distance from other trees.

Important! The rapid spread of the disease contributes to high humidity air, low temperature environment, sudden temperature changes. That's why spring period is the most dangerous for the peach tree.

Among preventive measures the most popular is treating peach with copper sulfate (1%), Bordeaux mixture (3%) or fungicide. Of the latter, they recommend “Skor”, “Hom”, “Raek”.

Preventative treatment carried out 2 times a year. First - in autumn after trees shed their leaves. Second - in the spring before the first leaves appear. Although some experts recommend repeating after the first spraying 4 to 5 days later.

Important! Spraying is done in calm and dry weather. Otherwise, the wind will carry the solution to neighboring plants, bypassing the peach, or the rain will immediately wash it away.

How to fight the disease? Preparations to combat leaf curl

Treating a tree for this disease is very complex and time-consuming, so it is recommended to pay sufficient attention to preventive methods immediately after planting.

And an important place among them is occupied by sanitary and preventive work.They involve cutting or complete removal affected shoots, which must be immediately collected and burned outside the site.

If these events are held in the fall, all the leaves that have fallen from the tree should be burned along with them. In the spring, those shoots that clearly show signs of the disease are pruned.

Did you know? There is still no consensus among gardeners about when it is more effective to prune in the spring: in May, when infected shoots are visible, but the spores have not yet spread throughout the tree, or in early spring, when removing frozen and dried shoots.

In addition to treating peach with Bordeaux mixture, the use of fungicides is effective in treatment. Most often it is recommended to use “Skor” because it is non-toxic and therefore safe for the environment and gardeners themselves.

For one hundred square meters of land you need 2 ml of the drug (1 ampoule), which must be dissolved in 10 liters of water. The therapeutic effect lasts up to 5 days, and the preventive effect lasts up to 10 days.

“Abiga-Peak” is also used at the rate of 40–50 g per 10 liters of water. It must be used 4 times with breaks of 2 weeks.

Important! Experienced gardeners know that peach is a finicky plant that requires strict adherence to the rules of caring for it, special climatic conditions. He reacts no less sensitively to various drugs. If you make a slight mistake with the dosage or the period of spraying, the tree can shed all its foliage and fruits, slow down their development, or even dry out.

Folk remedies to combat frizz

As already mentioned, chemical treatment of peach with fungicides and Bordeaux mixture is the most effective methods fight the disease. But some gardeners try to use chemicals at the very last resort, trying with all our might to cure the plant folk remedies.

Yes, it is recommended to use spraying with tobacco infusion. A kilogram of dried tobacco or tobacco dust is poured into 5 liters of boiling water and left for 3 days. The infusion is filtered, diluted 1:2 with water and sprayed on the affected trees 2 times with an interval of 2 weeks.

Considered effective emulsion,prepared from 90 g of slaked lime and 350 g of softened clay, diluted in 10 liters of water. First, you need to dilute the clay with water until smooth, and then, stirring thoroughly, add slaked lime. The solution must be without sediment.

It must be used immediately, without leaving it for next time. But the expected effect will only be obtained with regular spraying of trees. This rule also applies to other folk methods.

But most often the mushroom turns out to be resistant to folk decoctions. Therefore, if you do not want to use serious preparations to treat the tree, in addition to pruning peach leaves affected by curl, it is recommended to spray with 1% Bordeaux mixture, a harmless Biostat product, which contains: essential oils, as well as special mixtures.

For example, a mixture of lime and ground sulfur in a ratio of 1:2 or a solution of colloidal sulfur suspension (1%). In this case, spraying is recommended to be carried out at air temperatures above 25°C. But remember, if folk remedies do not give a visible result, do not neglect treating the peach with fungicides.

Growing a peach tree in the garden is a labor-intensive process. But before you start purchasing fungicides (Delana or Strobi) for chlorosis, take a closer look at which diseases and pests of peach and nectarine are the most dangerous and common, and also study the instructions for using the drugs.

Why do leaves curl and then crack and fall off? There are other cases: raised red spots appear on the leaves of a tree, or the tree suddenly begins to turn yellow and shed its leaves. All this, including yellowing and shedding of leaves, does not happen by chance and, as a rule, is only the first sign of the presence of a particular disease. To be sure to know what to do if they are cracked and curled yellow leaves, you need to clearly understand the whole variety of peach diseases. This way, when the threat manifests itself, you will already know its face.

Clusterosporiasis

How does peach clasterosporiosis manifest itself? Initially, you may notice small brown spots with a border appear on the leaves of the tree. raspberry color. When the affected part of the plant turns red, bursts and dies, a hole forms in its place. That is why the peach disease clasterosporiasis is often called perforated spot.

This disease can harm not only the leaf plate of the peach, but also its shoots. Orange spots form on them, and as a result the entire branch dies. This leaf disease occurs in damp weather or due to winds, which are carried by the causative agent of the disease - a fungus. Spraying the tree with copper oxychloride during the period of bud swelling will help you get rid of the disease.

Leaf curl

Treatment of peach against diseases and pests (for example, chlorosis) may also be necessary in the case of leaf curl. Initially, reddish swellings appear on the leaf plate, which are then covered with a white coating. The causative agent of the disease is a fungus that spreads from tree to tree during the long rainy spring. Such a misfortune poses a serious threat to the garden peach: if you do not treat it with a fungicide (for example, “Delan”) in time, the leaves affected by the disease will fall off, and the plant itself will first lag behind in development, and then simply die. The main control measures include pruning the affected parts of the tree. After removal, they all must be burned.

Powdery mildew

To the most dangerous diseases Powdery mildew should be attributed to garden peach. This disease is dangerous not only for the leaves of the plant, but also for the shoots and even the fruits. All of them are covered with a light coating, slightly reminiscent of a cobweb. Colonies of these fungi are carried by the wind, especially during the hot summer, and therefore your plant even after effective treatment“Delan” can become infected again.

fight with powdery mildew recommended by removing affected shoots, branches, fallen leaves and fruits. This way you will prevent the disease from spreading further. High efficiency The treatment of wood with “Topsin” or “Topaz” also shows. For greater effect, you can also spray the plant with insecticides in June.

Moniliosis of stone fruits

Moniliosis of garden peach is also considered dangerous. This disease appears during the growing season, but infection occurs already at the flowering stage of the tree. The twisted flowers of the plant turn brown and fall off. But this is just the beginning. As the disease develops, it causes the wood to dry out and penetrates the ovaries and fruits, causing them to die. The disease can be treated with timely pruning and burning the affected parts of the tree. Remove fallen fruits from under the plant. Control measures include preventative spraying of the tree with Bordeaux mixture.

Fruit rot

This peach disease primarily affects fruits. They gradually become covered with gray spots, and as a result you get a completely rotten fruit. Interestingly, if the fruits come into contact with each other, you definitely cannot avoid further infection. The disease can only be prevented if you carry out preventive treatment of the plant before it blooms.

Tree pests

Aphid

Due to the appearance of a frequent guest called aphids, it is mainly not the peach leaves that suffer, but the shoots. The insect literally sucks the plant juices out of them, which leads to the drying out of entire parts of the tree. And the leaves curl and fall off over time. It is best to combat an aphid infestation at an early stage, since with further development of the disease, only strong pesticides can save your peach.

Weevils

Ticks

Fruit moth

It is also recommended to spray the tree against fruit moths. It is a gray narrow-winged butterfly that overwinters under the bark in the same way as mites. In spring, this pest becomes more active and begins to eat peach shoots along with its core. Because of this, development fruit tree slows down because the shoots begin to wither and die, and the reason for this is precisely the fruit moth.

To avoid purchasing “Delan” and other fungicides to combat it, promptly remove fallen leaves and fruits from under the tree, and also trim off dying parts of the plant.

codling moth

Such a pest can easily survive the winter under the bark of a tree, under fallen leaves or on damaged parts of shoots. It is dangerous not only because it actively eats peach shoots, ovaries and even young seeds, but also because it is a carrier of various fungal diseases. Buy a high-quality fungicide to control the codling moth.

Effective prevention

In order not to study measures to combat certain diseases of your garden peach (for example, chlorosis), you need to know what preventive procedures will prevent the occurrence of diseases and pest invasions. You can prevent chlorosis and other ailments by following these recommendations:

Before flowering, cut off dried branches;
after pruning, the shoots are burned;
with the arrival of spring, you need to take care of spraying the tree with chemicals;
when the fruits form and ripen in July, it is very important to apply complex fertilizers and water the tree well.

In order not to treat shoots from chlorosis or powdery mildew on garden peach, preventive measures are necessary.

Video “Proper care of peach”

From this video you will learn how to care for peach in the garden to get a rich harvest.

There is no such thing as too much information, right? In addition, I have devoted more than 30 years to the peach and have long found it common language, we are true friends.

It’s easy for you, a southerner, to say, another gardener colleague of mine will say.

Maybe so, but not entirely. You need to know the character of the peach, it will come in handy in any climatic zone. It is also important that in terms of frost resistance, the peach is really far from a weakling. According to my observations, in severe cold years, apple trees, apricots, and grapes suffered more often, but not peaches! Another thing is that this tree does not tolerate careless handling.

Peach has its own difficult character. It’s as if he’s saying: “I give you, gardener, bliss, just take care of me properly.”

Peach is a very fast growing breed. At correct landing and proper care can bear fruit within a year, although it is officially believed that it begins to bear fruit only in the third year.

Peach also has disadvantages. There are only two of them, but which ones... This is the curling of the leaves and the drying out of the branches (and sometimes the tree itself). First -

main disease of peach. It is widespread wherever this crop grows. Because of this, the fruits appear ugly and fall before they have time to ripen. You can fight all this only with the help of annual rejuvenation.

The branches should be systematically thinned and shortened, that is, conditions should be created that promote good lighting of the space inside the crown. Its most correct form is with an open center.

A mandatory technique is pruning affected, dry branches.

This operation is best carried out in the spring when 2-3 leaves appear and in the summer when dried branches are detected. It is also equally important to completely collect and destroy affected foliage. early spring.

And, of course, you can’t do without spraying. It must be done correctly and in a timely manner, otherwise the leaves begin to grow poorly, the fruits fall off, and eventually the tree dies.

I personally spray once, during the period when leaves begin to fall, with a solution of urea (300 g per 10 liters of water), twice in the spring, during the period of bud break, with a 1% solution copper sulfate and once before flowering and three weeks after the solution wood ash, nettle and tomato tops. This is what is called a mandatory program.

Changing of the guard

Now about drying.

It also appears all the time, a very unpleasant phenomenon. You don’t want your enemy to one day see the dried peach to which you devoted so much care and effort. But how can we avoid this? Late and frequent watering at the end of summer and autumn.

We must remember, like the Lord's Prayer, that the lack of good drainage causes protracted growth of shoots, delays the ripening of wood and impairs the winter hardiness of the tree.

To avoid excessive soil moisture, peach should be planted away from beds with vegetables and any greenery. I strongly recommend not to use any mineral fertilizers, no matter what the market sellers say. “Mineral water” acts like a drug on the soil and on the peach. It is necessary to explain what will happen if someday you reduce the “dose” or even decide to give up on them?

On your own summer cottage I have six peach trees, and they are all six varieties different periods maturation.

They are small in size, I don’t let them grow as they want. They are planted in different years and have been bearing fruit for five years. Every year I change two seedlings. To do this, I raise “recruits”, choosing two-year-olds - the best of the best. Thus, in five years the entire composition changes.

Of course, good agricultural technology can further extend their life.

But I don’t see much point in this. In my nursery I plant peach seeds in summer, autumn, and winter. After a year or two, depending on the growth of the rootstock, I budding. This has already been written about many times and in an accessible form.

I don’t want to be original, but I will say that the budding process itself is simple, but it requires attentiveness, composure and caution. It is necessary to carefully and thoughtfully prepare the instrument and determine the time of grafting.

High survival rate is obtained when budding at the end of summer. Its duration is determined simply: if in your area (say, September 1) the air temperature during the day drops below 10°, then the procedure must be carried out before the tenth of August.

How to grow a peach

An important condition for growing peaches in regions with a “capricious” climate is the choice of frost-resistant varieties (for example, Novoselkovsky, Loika). And, of course, correct agricultural technology.
Landing - in the sun
To plant peach, choose a sufficiently lit place, protected from COLD northern winds, ideally - about south wall buildings. Vasily Grigorievich advises planting peach in early spring, when the soil is ripe (late March - mid-April). But landing hole(60-100 cm in diameter) is best prepared in the fall: mix the top fertile layer with 10-25 kg of humus, add mineral fertilizers(100-300 g each of nitrogen, phosphorus and microfertilizers). When planting a seedling root collar They are left at ground level, or they can be buried 3-5 cm.
Seasonal care
At the end of April - beginning of May, the tree is fed with a solution of mullein (1:10) or ammonium nitrate (per 1 square meter of trunk circle: 2-3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water with the addition of 3-5 tablespoons of phosphorus and potassium fertilizers). For young trees, this dose should be reduced by 2 times. When caring for a peach, it is important to water it periodically, especially during dry times. Water consumption rate per one young tree
— 10-15 l, per adult
- 30-40 l.
After watering, the soil is mulched with sawdust and peat.
For the winter
With proper care and preparation for winter, a peach can successfully pass the “cold and frost test.”
To increase frost resistance at the end of August - September, you can feed the plants potash fertilizers(30-50 g per tree).

At the end of October - beginning of November, the soil is dug up under the trees and watered well (moisture-charging irrigation) so that the water penetrates to a depth of 1 m.
To protect the bark from sunburn and frost damage in the fall, it is necessary to whiten the trunks and the base of the skeletal branches of adult trees.

The peach is a delicious fruit, but it takes a lot of work in the beginning to get it. good harvest. Peach diseases and pests keep the gardener in suspense throughout the growing season. Peaches grown far from their home countries with warm climates are susceptible to many diseases. We will tell you about the most common tree diseases and protective measures.

What diseases affect peach

All fruit crops are affected by one set of diseases, but each species is predisposed to some of them. And just like plums with moniliosis, peach is affected by curling, more often than other diseases.

Other expected peach diseases:

fruit rot;
powdery mildew;
Clusterosporiosis;
moniliosis

The year-round complex is aimed at preventing diseases, exterminating pests and increasing tree productivity. If you maintain the agronomic calendar, you can prevent an outbreak of the disease even in unfavorable summers. Look at the photo: peach diseases and their treatment require strong medications and protective clothing for the worker.

Clusterosporiosis or leaf hole is a fungal disease. When development begins, punctures appear on the leaves, then purple spots appear, the tissue in the circle falls off, and a leaf with holes appears. At the same time, the spores spread to the entire above-ground part of the plant. Sometimes an overdose of copper-containing fungicides gives the same signs on the leaves. If it is a peach fungus disease, it will progress quickly.

When the disease manifests itself, folk remedies cannot defeat it. It is necessary to use fungicides, such as Skor, Kristalon or Delan, in a double dose, if you follow the instructions.

may spoil the development of peach on the coast of the Black and Sea of Azov. For middle zone this disease is typical for melons and berry crops. At first, the leaves of the tree stand as if sprinkled with flour. Later, the leaf becomes deformed and the shoots become thinner. The taste of the fruit changes. The fight against powdery mildew is carried out with the help of Topaz, fresh mullein mash, and cutting out infected shoots. Colloidal sulfur is effective against powdery mildew.

Compliance with growing technology, preventing peach diseases and fighting them, as in the photo, will keep the garden healthy.

Leaf curl disease is the most dangerous

Overwintered fungal spores germinate into shoots and leaves in early spring, having overwintered on last year's plant debris. The causative agent of leaf curl disease invades the leaf. The first sign is the formation of red bubbles on the leaf blade. But if the leaves have already hung on the tree for 2 weeks, the disease is powerless.

The fungus invades the plate 5-8 days after birth. The leaves are destroyed and fall to the ground along with the mature spores. Young branches of fresh or annual growth and their wood are damaged. This year's buds are deformed, and there will be no harvest next season.

How to treat peach leaf curl disease? Immediately! As soon as you see the first signs - young leaves, still green, begin to swell, you must immediately apply copper-containing fungicides in the recommended dose. In this case, you need to start immediately sanitary pruning, cutting, pinching leaves until the disease has taken over the entire crown.

Experts and practitioners say that among peach varieties, some are more resistant to leaf curl:

Redhaven;
In memory of Rodionov;
Bagrinovsky;
Morettini;
Simferopol early.

How can you combat leaf curl on peach using folk remedies? The key to eradicating disease is speed. There are not many effective drugs. If the disease is detected at the beginning, you need to manually remove the leaves, cut off the branches on which they were attached, and be sure to burn them.

Pollinate the tree with a mixture of sulfur powder and fluff lime, spray with 1% colloidal sulfur, but only on a hot day, so that the temperature is above 25 degrees. You can use the drug Biostat. For the second treatment, prepare a 3-day infusion of tobacco dust. You can spray with a mixture of slaked lime and clay slurry, applying it to the leaves after each rain wash or fall. Practitioners warn that if fresh galls appear, you need to switch to fungicides.

Preventive methods to combat peach curl begin in the fall. It is during this period that it is necessary to clear the garden of winter tenants. As soon as the air temperature has dropped to 10-5 degrees, it is time for prevention:

Inspection and sanitary treatment of the trunk and broken branches.
Free the trunk circle from all residues, burn the leaves and branches, loosen the soil or lay fresh manure over the entire area, without digging, let there be a crust. This is a supplement for 3 years.
In the spring, treat the buds with copper fungicide, and then prune. Then treat with Topsin M, but before the leaves appear.

Spray young leaves with Champion. In the future, if swelling appears, a 10% mullein infusion will cope with them. A neglected garden will be free from diseases within 2-3 years.

This is the answer to the question of how to treat peach for leaf curl. The scheme is used in private gardens in Ukraine. System processing allow you to get rid of major fungal diseases even in warm rainy years.

The basic principles of disease control are the ability to grow a healthy, strong tree. Then it itself will resist diseases and pests. To do this, you need to find a light slope, with a barrier from the northern slope. The peach does not tolerate any shading. He loves fertile soil, regular watering and deep standing groundwater. If there is thaw in winter, the tree will wake up. The roots will withstand winter cold of +25 degrees for 3-4 days, and 35-38 degrees for several hours. Whitewashing trunks and manure in tree trunk circle will help reduce the risk of frostbite.

Selection of drugs against peach curl - video

Determine by appearance plants about the imbalance of nutrients used to be something mystical for me. True, about ourselves nutrients, such as nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium, I knew at the school curriculum level.

Honestly, I really wanted to be such a “wizard” that I could walk through the garden, look at the twigs, leaves, flowers and say what this plum or apple tree is missing, so that there would be harvests every year, and everything in the garden would smell fragrant, like in heaven corner.

But I'm not a wizard, I'm just learning. Indeed, in practice, determining exactly what element a plant lacks is sometimes very difficult, but one must strive for this, because if the plant receives balanced nutrition, then diseases will not attack it, and pests, if they attack, will harm the healthy plant less is applied than to a weakened one.

Nitrogen

Nitrogen is one of the main elements of plant nutrition. When there is a lack of nitrogen, plants stop growing. When there is an excess of nitrogen in the soil, plants, on the contrary, begin to rapid growth, and all parts of the plant grow. The leaves become dark green, too large and lumpy. The tops begin to "curl". Such plants do not bloom for a long time and do not bear fruit.

U fruit crops the resulting fruits do not ripen for a long time, have a pale color, fall off too early, and the fruits remaining on the branches cannot be stored. Excess nitrogen also provokes the development of gray rot in berries garden strawberries, tulips. Tulips are generally clean nitrogen fertilizers try not to fertilize: only complex or phosphorus-potassium. Nitrogen fertilizers cause tulips to rot, first the buds, then the above-ground part of the plant, until the bulbs are damaged.

Fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizers, either organic or mineral, should be done only in spring and early summer, when all plants are in a phase of rapid growth.

Fertilizing with nitrogen is very effective after short-term spring frosts or drop in temperature. Such fertilizing helps plants, especially early flowering ones, such as weigela, to quickly cope with stress, recover and begin to grow.

Fertilizing with nitrogen in mid- and late summer significantly reduces winter hardiness. perennial plants, and also contribute to the accumulation of nitrates in vegetables. Late ones are especially harmful nitrogen fertilizing young garden.

For example, in apple trees with an excess of nitrogen, young shoots grow at the end of summer, which, when night temperatures drop, are affected by powdery mildew; such apple trees may not survive the winter.

Nitrogen fertilizers: urea, ammonium nitrate, sodium nitrate, potassium nitrate, ammonium sulfate. Also on sale wide choice complex mineral fertilizers, which contain phosphorus and potassium along with nitrogen. The packaging always indicates the percentage of a particular substance.

Phosphorus

Phosphorus, like nitrogen and potassium, is the main element of plant nutrition. Lack of phosphorus affects, first of all, on reproductive processes: flowering and fruiting.

In the spring, with a lack of phosphorus, buds do not bloom for a long time, roots and new young shoots do not grow. Plants do not bloom for a long time, buds and flowers fall off, flowering is very sparse, fruits also fall off quickly; berries, vegetables, fruits have a sour taste.

In apple and pear trees, with a lack of phosphorus, young growth on the branches is very weak: young branches are thin, short, stop growing very quickly, the leaves at the end of these shoots have an elongated shape, they are much narrower than healthy leaves. The angle of departure of leaves on young shoots becomes smaller (they seem to be pressed against the branch), the lower old leaves become dull, bluish-green, sometimes they have a bronze tint. Gradually, the leaves become spotted: dark green and light green, rather yellowish areas appear throughout the leaf blade. Almost all of the formed ovary falls off. The rare fruits remaining on the branches also fall off early.

In stone fruit crops, such as plums, cherries, peaches, and apricots, the lack of phosphorus is more noticeable. At the beginning of summer, young leaves are dark green in color. Gradually, their veins begin to turn red: first from below, then from above. The red color covers the edges of the leaves and petioles. The edges of the leaves curl down. Apricot and peach have red dots on their leaves. Due to a lack of phosphorus, young plantings of peaches and apricots may die in the first year. In mature stone fruits, the fruits remain greenish and fall off. The pulp of even ripe fruits remains sour.

In berry crops, such as currants, gooseberries, raspberries, honeysuckle, blueberries and other shrubby or herbaceous perennial crops that give us tasty berries, with a lack of phosphorus in the spring, bud opening is delayed, very little growth is formed on the branches, and even that quickly stops growing , the leaves gradually become reddish or red-violet. Dried leaves turn black. The set fruits quickly fall off, and early leaf fall is possible in the fall.

Phosphorus is added to the soil in spring or autumn when digging the soil; in summer it can be carried out foliar feeding(by leaves) liquid fertilizers or aqueous solutions of mineral fertilizers from June to August. Flowers bloom for a long time with such fertilizing.

Fertilizers containing phosphorus: superphosphate, double superphosphate, bone meal, phosphate rock. Complex mineral fertilizers containing phosphorus: ammophos, diamophos (nitrogen + phosphorus); ammophoska, diammofoska (nitrogen + phosphorus + potassium) and many others.

Potassium

Potassium is the third main element of plant nutrition. With its deficiency, the winter hardiness of plants sharply decreases.

Plants suffering from potassium deficiency experience problems water balance, What, in turn, leads to drying of the tops.

With a lack of potassium, the edges of plant leaves begin to bend upward, and a yellow rim appears along the edges of the leaf blade, which gradually dries out. The color of the leaves from the edges begins to change from bluish-green to yellow, gradually the leaves, for example, of an apple tree become gray, brown or brown, and those of a pear gradually turn black.

Thus, if potassium fertilizing is not applied in time, necrosis from the edges of the leaves spreads further to the leaf blade, and the leaves dry out.

Often trees grow normally in the spring, but signs of potassium starvation begin to appear in the summer. The fruits ripen extremely unevenly, the color of the fruits is pale and “dull”. The leaves stay on the branches for a long time and do not fall off, despite autumn frosts.

In stone fruit crops, with a lack of potassium, the leaves are initially dark green, then begin to turn yellow at the edges, and when they die completely, they become brown or dark brown. In apricots and pies, you may notice wrinkling or curling of the leaves. Yellow dots of dead tissue appear on them, surrounded by a red or brown border. After some time, the leaves become holey.

In raspberries, with a lack of potassium, the leaves become wrinkled and slightly curled inward; The color of raspberry leaves appears gray due to the light shade of the underside of the raspberry leaves. Leaves with torn edges appear. A red border appears on the edges of strawberry leaves, which then turns brown.

If there is enough potassium, the crop ripens smoothly, the fruits are very tasty and rosy, the leaves fall on time in the fall, the plants are fully prepared for winter and overwinter very well.

At the first signs of potassium deficiency, you can water or spray the leaves with an aqueous solution of potassium fertilizers.

Potash fertilizers: potassium chloride, potassium sulfate (potassium sulfate), as well as complex fertilizers that contain potassium, for example: ammophoska, diammofoska.

In practice, most often there is a lack of not just one specific battery, but several at once.

With a simultaneous lack of phosphorus and potassium, you cannot immediately tell from the plants that they are starving, but at the same time they grow very poorly.

With a lack of nitrogen and phosphorus, the leaves become light green, become hard, and the angle between the leaf and the shoot becomes acute.

With a lack of all three main nutrients - nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium - plants not only grow poorly, but also bear fruit poorly. Fruit crops' shoots freeze in winter. Therefore, it is very important to apply complex fertilizers in order to compensate for the lack of one or another nutrient in a timely manner.

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