January. Why do trees die "for no reason" after winter or summer? Why do trees die. How to save fruit trees The apple tree has dried up, and a new sprout has come out from the root

The main reason is verticillium wilt.

IN last years cases of sweet cherry diseases with verticillium have become more frequent, which leads to early drying out of both individual branches and the tree as a whole.

On young trees (3-7 years old), the disease begins in the spring, the apical buds of bouquet twigs turn black and do not bloom one or two weeks before flowering, withering of the inflorescences is often observed. When carefully examined on the tree trunk, in the forks and on the skeletal branches, you can find subtle depressed stripes and spots of a rusty-brown color. different size. Such spots can from time to time be separated from the living tissue by cracks from which the gum flows. The disease is active. If preventive measures are not taken, the tree may die during the growing season.

In trees older than 7 years, the disease turns into an acquired form: necrotic lesions form on the bark of the trunk and scedate branches. The bark around it cracks and exfoliates from the tree species in the form of continuous longitudinal strips, forming depressions from which gum flows abundantly. Uniformly growing wounds completely cover the affected part of the plants, mushrooms settle on them. Trees slowly dry out over 10-15 years.

Problem Solving

To prevent early drying of the cherry, you need to make the following requirements. On the site where it grows, you can not grow nightshade, vegetable, gourds, strawberries, sunflowers, in other words, plants that are very affected by verticillium wilt - they can be a source of infection.
The soil for cherries should be breathable. Sweet cherry does not tolerate languid clay soils, saline and "alkaline lands, with a close level of occurrence are also undesirable ground water that worsen the aeration of the root system. Based own experience, I plant trees in the fall, with all this I place the root neck at a depth of 4-5 cm from the surface of the earth. I perform formative pruning of trees in the summer (end of May-August), when the development of microbes is inhibited highest temperature air. Cutting tool disinfect with 10% substance blue vitriol, formalin or carbolic acid. I certainly cover the sections with garden pitch or alkyd paint.
In order to protect trees from sunburn and frost cracks, which contribute to the development of verticillium wilt, in autumn and in winter-spring time I spend whitewashing the trunks and bases of skeletal branches with a 20% lime substance with the addition of a 2% solution of copper sulphate. I clean the gum ulcers and cover them with clay and mullein putty (1: 1), also adding a 2% solution of copper sulphate to it. After heavy rains in August-September and first leaf fall, I spray with 1% Bordeaux liquid or cuproxate. In October - two more treatments with the same products with an interval of 15 days.
In the spring, to disinfect the apical buds, on which the pathogen overwinters, I spray the trees with 3% Bordeaux liquid or cuproxate. Immediately after the end of flowering, during the period of intense infection with leaf diseases, I spray with polychoma (40 g), cuproxate (35 ml), radomil (40 g) or polycarbacin (40 g). In late July - early August, I repeat spraying with the same products. Reduced complex protective measures it is also effective in the early drying of apricots and other fruit trees.

Cherry is the name of a fruit and tree from the Rosaceae family, belongs to the genus Plum. the oldest

Unfortunately, often gardeners have to observe a rather gloomy picture. On the apple tree, suddenly, as if for no reason at all, the leaves turn yellow, dry and fall off. The fruit tree, which until recently had a lush green crown, withers literally before our eyes. It is important not to waste time, to correctly determine the cause and help the apple tree. About what factors can lead to the drying of foliage and branches, as well as how to eliminate them, will be discussed in this article.

Causes

So, if the trouble did happen, and you observe wilting leaves, you need to start by determining the causes of this phenomenon. And there are a lot of them.

The factors due to which the apple tree dries can be divided into several groups:

neglect of agricultural technology, improper care of the fruit tree;
attacks of harmful insects;
disease damage;
lack of trace elements, insufficient or untimely feeding.

Mistakes in care

Many novice gardeners and summer residents consider the apple tree to be a very unpretentious culture. Like, the main thing is that the seedling takes root, and then things will go by themselves. This point of view is fundamentally wrong.

Of course, there are wild varieties of this tree that grow in forests and fields without receiving any care. However, the fruits of such "free" apple trees do not differ good taste. The apples on them are very small, sour, astringent.

"Domesticated" apple trees are bred primarily to obtain a crop of a certain quality. Therefore, a tree spends a lot of energy on the formation of fruits.

And caring for a garden fruit crop requires a very competent and attentive throughout the life of a tree.

So, what mistakes in care can lead to the fact that the apple tree dries up literally before our eyes:

In regions with frosty winters, the fruit tree must be properly prepared for it. If the trunk of the plant is not wrapped and protected from frost, there is a risk of formation of so-called frost cracks in it. They arise due to the fact that the moisture constantly contained in the wood fibers freezes and expands in volume. As a result, the capillaries of the trunk and the fibers of the cortex are damaged or torn.

In severe frosts, the superficial roots of the fruit tree can also be damaged.

Often it is the freezing of the roots and trunk that is the reason that a previously strong and healthy apple tree suddenly withered after the winter.

Unsuitable soil can provoke a gradual drying of the fruit tree. In this case, individual branches begin to wither and die, and then all the leaves fall from the tree. Apple trees do not tolerate sandy and clay soils. It is also undesirable to plant a tree in soil with a high percentage of crushed stone and gravel.
The root system of the apple tree may suffer due to excessive soil moisture or the close passage of groundwater. In this case, the oxygen supply of the root system is disrupted. Constant high humidity over time, it also leads to rotting of the roots of the tree. The apple tree under such conditions is very weak, practically stops growing, and actively loses foliage.
When planting a seedling, you need to think in advance which plants and crops the growing apple tree will be adjacent to. Often cause poor development or withering of the tree is root competition.

At adult apple tree the roots are approximately twice as wide in diameter as its crown. Therefore, if other mature and powerful trees grow in the immediate vicinity, the apple tree may simply not have enough food.

Also in the root zone, thinning should be carried out regularly or complete removal weeds and grasses. Plants such as couch grass and timothy have a poisonous effect on the apple tree. You definitely need to get rid of them.
It is important to observe the timing of planting seedlings. Landing is carried out in autumn or spring, in a pre-harvested before winter landing pit. Young trees planted in summer have a very low survival rate. The branches and top of the "summer" seedling quickly turn yellow.
Excessive care and overuse of chemicals lead to chemical burns various parts tree. Very frequent and unreasonably abundant treatments with pesticides and insecticides do not benefit the tree at all. The apple tree itself begins to suffer from aggressive substances: its leaves, trunk, bark, shoots.
Incorrect pruning can cause weakening of the fruit tree. Particular attention should be paid to the processing of slices. Neglect of this procedure leads to infection of the culture with diseases, fungus and rot.
Cause of partial or complete drying apple trees can also become improperly grafted. This process requires some experience and skill. It is worthwhile to study all its nuances well before grafting a fruit crop on your own.
The leaves may dry out due to prolonged hot weather and dry air. The influence of this weather factor is especially noticeable if the apple tree is still young. Usually, only foliage reacts to dry air, and branches do not dry out.

Diseases and pests

Harmful insects And various diseases often settle in gardens and cause damage to plantings. Apple trees in this category of negative factors also have a lot of enemies. First of all, very young trees that have not had time to get stronger properly suffer. Also at risk are age-related, weakened apple trees.

Take a closer look at the fruit trees in the garden. In addition to the drying of foliage and branches, each disease or pest has a lot of its own specific features. A precise definition the reasons for the drying up of the tree will help to take the necessary measures and save the apple tree.

A very common and insidious disease is cytosporosis. The disease affects mostly mature or old trees with thick bark on the trunk and branches.

characteristic feature cytosporosis is the drying of individual sections of the bark, the rapid drying of the branches. On various parts of the tree, including the fruits, dark formations appear in the form of tubercles and dry growths.

If a young apple tree is affected, cytosporosis is difficult to notice for a long time. Unfortunately, the disease often leads to the death of the tree if the tissue damage is too deep.

Another terrible disease with a formidable name is black cancer. The disease is considered incurable, you can only prolong the life of the tree by removing the affected parts in a timely manner.

At the initial stage, the disease manifests itself by the formation of many black spots on the leaf plates. After a while, branches and large shoots begin to dry out. Multiple extensive black ulcers on the trunk and bark of branches speak of a serious and advanced degree of the disease. Rot develops on the apple tree, why the tree soon dies.

Scab often affects fruit crops. Brown and brown spots Over time, the leaves dry up and fall off.

If there is a coating of gray or white color with dark patches, this is a sure sign of powdery mildew infection.

Fungal disease affects the foliage, bark, young shoots, buds and fruits of apple trees. If the disease began to actively develop during the flowering period, then the color and ovaries for the most part will dry out and fall off.

The period of greatest activity of this fungal microorganism is the beginning of June. At this time, sap flow is still quite active in the tree, young juicy shoots are developing.

Insect pests are also frequent unwanted guests on garden plot. Their vital activity causes considerable damage to plantings and leads to loss or a significant decrease in the amount of the crop.

voracious aphid actively eats young leaves and shoots. This insect is in tandem with ants. The latter feed on the sugary liquid that aphids secrete in the process of life. Therefore, ants often carry larvae and adult insects closer to the location of the anthill. In the future, workaholic ants tirelessly climb the trunk to collect the nutrient composition from the bodies of these pests. Outwardly, aphids look like very small, oblong green rashes. It does not affect the branches and trunk, but settles on young leaves, sucking juices out of them and actively laying eggs.

With extensive damage to the crown, the tree is greatly weakened, the growth of young green branches stops, the foliage turns yellow.

caterpillars they love to feast on the leaves and fruits of apple trees. They are quite easy to spot even with the naked eye. Exists a large number of species of this insect. The main task in the fight against them is the destruction of adults and larvae located on the crown.
leaf roller, attacking apple trees and actively multiplying, gradually destroys foliage. A sign of defeat by this pest in the first place is the darkening of the leaves on one side or along the entire edge. Then the leaves begin to curl into a tube, darken completely and fall off. In a cocoon from a rolled leaf, the insect actively lays larvae and moves to healthy shoots.

The appearance of cobwebs on twigs and leaves is a signal that the tree has attacked mite. The insect itself is very difficult to see. Yellowing and falling leaves will tell about his further activities.
May beetle larvae live in the soil and feed on young plant roots. If they settled in the ground under an apple tree, it is likely that young growing roots will be actively eaten by them. Usually, when the larvae of the May beetle attack, the apple tree normally blooms in the spring. However, after the color crumbles and almost all the foliage turns yellow in July-August.

In addition to insects, some animals that dig holes and passages in the upper layers of the soil can cause harm to the apple tree. For example, moles or mice can damage young tree roots, thereby weakening the entire plant.

Their presence on the site can be judged by the presence of minks, earthen mounds, and areas with loosened soil.

nutritional deficiency

The last negative factor weakening fruit trees, is the lack of essential nutrients. This may be due to the characteristics of the soil, insufficient or untimely top dressing. Or it is due to the introduction into the soil of substances that are not at all necessary for a fruit crop.

In particular, apple trees react sharply to a lack of sulfur, magnesium, and iron. The last element is especially important for the development of young seedlings. For top dressing several times a season use soluble complex fertilizers. The introduction of ammonia fertilizers significantly strengthens the immunity of the fruit tree. Nitrogen-containing preparations stimulate the development of the root system. It is also important to combine root and foliar top dressing.

How to save a tree?

A set of measures to save a tree depends on the specific reasons that led to yellowing, drying of foliage, drying of branches and bark.

If we are talking about gross errors in the growing process, proper care should be immediately provided to the culture.

Much attention must be paid to preparing trees for wintering. At the end of autumn, to protect the apple tree from freezing, abundant mulching of the root zone is carried out. The trunk is wrapped with spruce branches or covering material. After snow falls, a snowdrift is thrown around the trunk. All these measures will help to avoid the very detrimental effects of severe frosts.

Sanitary pruning branches should be carried out regularly. An important point in this process is timely and correct handling all cuts.

With excessive soil moisture, you will have to resort to transplanting a seedling or draining the soil. If long time the weather is hot, dry, it is important to provide the fruit tree with regular sufficient watering. Do not allow the growth of grasses and weeds in the near-stem zone. Regular weeding and loosening the soil will significantly strengthen the tree and contribute to more active growth and development.

If the root system is attacked by rodents, special poisons are used.

Preventive measures

Few will argue with the fact that it is better to prevent any troubles than to disentangle their consequences. This approach is quite fair with respect to caring for fruit crops. Feasible and timely preventive measures taken will increase the chances that the apple trees in the garden will remain unharmed, strong and give good harvest. And this, you see, is the most optimal and desirable option.

Do not leave fallen leaves, branches, fruits under the apple tree. The near-trunk area should be cleared of plant debris. In the process of treating diseases, all affected areas of the tree must be removed. With black cancer, this is the only way to deal with the disease.

Cut and sawn branches, foliage and affected fruits should be removed from the site as soon as possible or burned.

The tool that was used to remove the infected parts of the tree should preferably be disinfected. You can treat it with chlorhexidine or ignite it on fire.

Birds can be of great help in the fight against insect pests. It would be useful to place a couple of birdhouses on the garden plot. In winter, bird feeders can be equipped. Dead bark should be removed from the tree trunk in a timely manner. Insects often settle in the gaps and cracks between the dried areas, rot or fungus forms.

An important preventive measure is the treatment of the crown with copper preparations, Bordeaux mixture and complex broad-spectrum insecticides. Do not forget about the regular and timely feeding of fruit trees.

At the first stages of mastering the process of growing your garden, it is very difficult to delve into all the nuances and tricks. The following are some tips for those who have taken up gardening not so long ago and do not yet have sufficient experience in this matter.

If there clear signs the fact that the apple tree froze during the winter cold, you can help it "thaw". To do this, gardeners water the tree warm water with dissolved micronutrients. Set aside pruning until the buds open. Often those branches that seemed to be dead, nevertheless awaken. If the buds have not formed, the branches will have to be removed.
If there is a high occurrence of groundwater in the area with plantations and there is no way to transplant a tree, you can maintain its dwarf size. So it will be possible to save the apple tree and at the same time unload the weakened root system.

After a winter with severe frosts, the apple tree can be sprayed with a solution of heteroauxin. This composition stimulates the growth of young shoots, promotes wound healing after pruning.
During the fight against aphids, do not forget about her fellow ants. It will require the extermination of anthills throughout the site. Otherwise, the aphid will almost certainly return to the garden again.
Oversaturation of the soil with nitrogen has a negative effect. The introduction of this substance should be carried out according to the instructions and recommendations on the package. Excessive and frequent application of ammonia makes the plant very attractive to aphids and other pests.
It is worth remembering that chemicals cannot be used if apples ripen on the tree. If there is an extreme and urgent need for this, you will have to abandon the use of fruits and subsequently destroy the crop.

Careful high whitewashing of the tree saves from fungus and mold on the trunk. It is also a barrier to many non-flying insects.
Very old fruit trees can dry out on their own due to age. You can support a perennial apple tree by fertilizing, timely removal of dead branches, cleaning the trunk from dried bark.
If the foliage dries up mainly on the top of a young apple tree or seedling, then the reason for this is the defeat of the root system. Weakened roots cannot deliver nutrition to the upper parts of the plant. In this case, you should carefully examine the near-trunk zone for the presence of holes and underground passages of rodents and moles.

Other factors that led to root damage may be groundwater or freezing of the soil in severe frosts in winter.

Often, the larvae of the Maybug cannot be dealt with quickly. The fact is that they can live at a depth of up to one meter. Insecticide solutions simply do not reach all individuals deep in the soil. But it is known that the larvae of this insect really do not like ammonia. If you cultivate the soil in the near-trunk zone of the apple tree, the insects will hastily leave the unfavorable place. Pharmaceutical solution ammonia prepared in the proportion of 50 g of the drug per 8-10 liters of water.

See the next video for tips on caring for an apple tree.

“Why don’t the trees that have lived on the site for many years bloom and dry up? Why did plums and cherries bloom, but suddenly withered and withered? What's up with evergreen rhododendrons(photo on the left. 10 years old without the slightest problem) and conifers? Where did the strange spots on the leaves suddenly come from? - You ask us in great excitement, sending us many photographs with withered branches, cankers on the trunks, twisted leaves, etc. But what can I say, many wild trees (for example, birches) have not blossomed in the forests, which will now dry up. Look, some of the birches were covered by July 1 (1), and a very large number (for example, 2) dried up. And such affected plants, in some places 30 percent! When did it happen? I follow these things closely, but this has never happened before.

Here (on the right in the photo) stands a cherry tree without leaves, which had been fruiting for 15 years before that. What is going on?

I explain briefly: The last two summers have been inferior. Eternal rains and +12 did not give the plants the opportunity to properly spend the warm season: gain green mass, accumulate nutrients for the future, strengthen immunity to diseases and pests, as well as strengthen the bark for difficult wintering. From the abundance of rain, many trunks cracked and harmful fungal spores got there. Those fungal diseases that plants easily overcame before have now eaten into the trunks and branches and began their destructive work.

Then, after a cold and wet summer in 1616, a problematic winter came. In December, all the snow melted (!) and two-week frosts from -25 to -35 degrees froze the soil by almost half a meter! It should be noted that in winter, under the snow, we always have near zero, the soil does not freeze (and can even be easily dug up if necessary). Plants are rooted in such a moisture-permeable environment and “drink” water all winter as needed (for example, conifers and rhododendrons). Standing in the frozen ground, they simply quietly dried up under the influence of the winds and the sun, and it was possible to help them only by covering them with a dense covering cloth.

The long, very cold spring of 1717 did not give the plants strength, but rather took them away. Therefore, they met the summer either dead or withering.

What we do urgently:

To awaken the living, but sleeping, we pour over the roots hot water 50 degrees with a spoonful of nitrogen (carbamide, urea and the like) per watering can 5-7 liters.
All victims can be sprayed once with "Epin" - good stimulant(just don’t get carried away with it, otherwise plant the plants like a drug), and spill “Kornevin” along the roots, let the victim root system grow new roots.
Be sure to spray all fruit trees (at least once a month) antifungal drugs(there are a lot of them, you can alternate different ones, just don’t pour on the leaves Bordeaux mixture, burn it!).
Keep aphids on hand (for example, Iskra-bio or others) in time to destroy the pests that have arrived.
From spring to mid-summer we feed the plants nitrogen fertilizers or spread in trunk circle manure. Plants starve in our poor soils.
We give complex fertilizers (we use Fertik).
After mid-summer, we exclude manure-nitrogen top dressing and strengthen plants potassium and phosphorus fertilizers. Otherwise, your plants will not stop growing, will not become stronger by winter and will easily die.
From all sorts of spots on the leaves, powdery mildew(on phloxes, gooseberries, red maples, roses. If clematis began to wither, incomprehensible spots appeared on the bushes, etc.) we use a mixture of drugs Maxim + Topaz. Read the instructions, feel free to mix, and, without being afraid of the bright red color of the solution, spray the plants on the leaves and needles. When dry, the plants will not have noticeable staining, but will be protected from fungi.

The climate is changing, we must be prepared for the fact that some plants will no longer survive in our country. For example, plum trees in our area are dying en masse, and, for example, rocky junipers that were not killed before are now easily “burning”, etc.

We will adapt, learn to live in new conditions, try to help the plants and gardens around us survive. Now we just need to be more attentive to what surrounds us and not be lazy!

It is annoying when, despite all the efforts made, fruit trees get sick and bear fruit poorly. Often such a nuisance happens with cherries: the tree dries up at the tips of the branches, loses its ovaries. Let's figure out why the cherry dries, and what to do to save the tree.

The reasons for the drying of a fruit tree can be very diverse - from improper care and violation of the irrigation regime to incorrect pruning and the development of fungal or infectious diseases. However, most often the cherry dries precisely because of the disease - fungal pathology. If small characteristic spots appear on the leaves of the plant, measures must be taken immediately, as the infection is rapidly spreading, covering not only the foliage, but also the ovaries, flowers and berries.

Sometimes gardeners in the spring notice that the cherry in the garden has dried up. This is explained simply: the tree did not move away after the winter, having suffered from severe frosts. And the regime of soil moisture may be disturbed - felt cherries are considered capricious cultures in this matter.

Another explanation for why the cherry dries up lies in the lack of fertilizer: the tree simply does not have enough nutrition to form a crop, and it has no choice but to get rid of unripe fruits.

And the last, most unpleasant moment is infection with moniliosis. You can recognize the disease by the characteristic blackening of the ovaries. If you do nothing and do not fight the spread of the disease, it may well deprive you not only of the harvest, but of the entire cherry orchard.

How to save a tree

Complex fungicides are used to combat fungal infections. When the first alarming symptoms appear, these preparations should be abundantly treated with all the affected trees, otherwise the dried plants will inevitably die. The same applies to insects - for their destruction, there are insecticides of complex systemic or contact action that are safe for the crop. It will also be useful to mechanically destroy pests.

If the tree turns black due to a violation of the watering regime, try to adjust it. Cherry does not like soil with close groundwater, so you should carefully choose a place for planting a cherry seedling. Optimal mode watering for a tree - 1 time in 2 months, using 3 to 5 buckets of water for each plant.

In order not to provoke a lack of nutrition, fertilize on time: in the fall, the tree needs organic fertilizers, in spring and summer - mineral (in specialized stores you can find complex preparations designed for stone fruits).

But the success of the treatment of moniliosis will completely depend on how quickly the disease was noticed. To combat it, use the drug "Horus".

Prevention

So that you don’t have to frantically search for an answer to the question of what to do to save the garden if the cherries dry up in it, try to follow the rules of agricultural culture. Do not neglect the obligatory preventive treatments, do not forget to cover your cherries for the winter, protecting them from the cold, apply all the necessary fertilizers on time, water them properly and trim the branches.

Many summer residents are concerned about the question of why raspberries dry. It is known that raspberries are a low-hardy crop. In Siberia, raspberries (and blackberries) winter well only under snow. In addition to freezing, it suffers from aging and drying up of tissues. To save the crop, you need to take action: water, protect from the cold, replace the variety, transplant raspberries, cut and properly care for.

When do raspberries dry?

Raspberry stalks dry in autumn and winter, when the temperature jumps and can drop sharply when cold winds blow on bare shoots.

5 reasons why raspberries dry

In autumn, with a sharp change in weather: early snow, which then melts, rain with snow.
In autumn, with a sharp drop in temperature to 20°C.
In places with little snow, if winter is accompanied by strong winds.
During thaws, as well as from strong winds when the shoots thaw and the soil remains frozen.
With early snow melting, as a result of strong wind drying of both shoots and soil.
In spring, drying occurs due to low humidity and strong winds.

The most affected are:

weakly ripened shoots,
new plant with weak roots (especially if the plants were not watered immediately after the soil thawed),
old bushes.

How do raspberry shoots dry?

If the raspberry bushes dry, they grow late and slowly, the entire shoot dies or a significant part of it - up to 100%.

The outer integumentary tissues may crack along the entire length of the stem (or partially),
the exposed cambial zone is green but dry;
the buds are also green, but dry, do not develop.
The wood of the shoots does not turn brown, as happens when it freezes.

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What to do if raspberries dry?

1. Water

Raspberries are an exceptionally moisture-loving crop; irrigation is important in agricultural technology.

Raspberries are watered often - as the topsoil dries up.
Raspberries should be watered especially often immediately after planting and in spring, regardless of temperature.

2. Replace variety or transplant

If the withering happens systematically -

replace the variety
or choose another site.

Varieties of large-fruited raspberries with thornless shoots suffer more from drying out.

Of the large-fruited varieties, varieties were resistant to desiccation. Beauty of Russia And burly . More about Top 30 large-fruited varieties raspberries read in

Of the varieties with prickly shoots, they proved to be resistant old varieties of Altai selection , from large-fruited - yellow giant And Phenomenon .

3. Trim and shape

If the case is episodic -

in the spring, as early as possible, the bushes are watered to accelerate regrowth.
After watering, the unrestored aerial part is removed,
form new shoots
raspberries should be watered in dry weather and fed with complex fertilizer.

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