Covering a log house with siding: features of frame installation. Options for finishing the exterior walls of a house How to decorate the corners of a house outside

When developing a project for a private building, you must immediately decide what to cover the outside of the house with. After all, it is correct finishing facade will make the house not only presentable, but also warm, so you need to carefully select materials for its insulation and decorative design. Without a good finish, the house will look ugly and sloppy, and will not be protected from destructive external influences, such as moisture, active solar radiation, wind, thermal changes, etc..

On modern construction market There is a very large assortment of insulating and decorative materials from which you can choose the ones that suit every taste and financial capabilities.

Requirements for façade cladding materials

To prevent dampness from appearing in the house, to be comfortable and warm, and to make the house look aesthetically pleasing from the outside, cladding materials must meet certain requirements.

Based on them, it is worth choosing the right option. So, the cladding must have the following qualities:

Have low thermal conductivity to retain heat inside the house.
Be vapor permeable—condensation should not form inside the insulation layers.
Be moisture resistant - do not absorb or retain moisture inside the material.
Have absolute or increased heat resistance - the sheathing must withstand high temperatures, under their influence not to deform and not to ignite.
Be inert to chemical influences - do not change its characteristics when such substances come into contact with it.
Be protected from the influence of microorganisms and not serve as a breeding ground for insects and rodents.
Do not decompose or lose physical properties when exposed to ultraviolet rays.

In order for the cladding to be effective in all matters, it is necessary not only to reliably attach decorative material to the walls, but, following technology, to cover them with a whole system of layers, each of which will play its role.

There are two main systems for insulating a house, and the choice will depend on what material is planned to be used for decorative finishing and on the insulation used. In one of their systems, the insulation is attached directly to the wall using glue, in the other - along the created sheathing.

Plastering a house with plaster

When using insulation boards that have sufficient high density, for example, foam plastic, fiber cement or tightly compressed glass wool in mats, which will later be covered with plaster on top; lathing the walls is not necessary.

Most often, this principle is applicable on smooth brick or reinforced concrete walls. In this case, the plating is done as follows:

On the wall of the house at the height at which insulation will be installed and secured metal profile- a holder selected according to the thickness of the selected insulation boards. The profile is leveled to a perfectly flat horizontal level.
The walls are cleaned of dust and, before applying glue, moistened with water for better adhesion.
Next on insulation boards pre-diluted special glue is applied.

The first row of slabs is installed on a metal profile and pressed firmly against the wall.
The next row is installed on top of the first according to the brickwork system - in a dressing.
Having secured two or three rows of slabs with glue, each of them is additionally secured with dowel fungi.
Further work continues according to the same system to the very top. Then the insulation is installed on other walls in the same way.
When the layer of glue under the insulation has dried, it is necessary to glue all corners of the building, window and door slopes with corners with reinforcing mesh. They are fixed with the same glue, its excess is removed with a spatula.

After the corners have dried, the reinforcing serpyanka mesh must be secured to the entire insulated surface.
The surface on which the serpyanka sheet will be glued is coated with a thin layer of glue. A reinforcing mesh is fixed on top of it, smoothed with a spatula, and excess glue is also removed.
When the surface dries well, it needs to be covered with polymer plaster, a layer of 2-3 mm.
The final step will be the application decorative plaster, chosen in the appropriate design style of the building.

Sheathing a house using sheathing

An insulating facade system using lathing can be installed in one or two layers. The position of the frame bars will depend on how you plan to install the decorative cladding.

To install the sheathing correctly, it is better to first mark the wall. In this case, you need to take into account the width of the insulating mats.
Then bars or metal profiles are mounted on the surface of the walls.
If you are sheathing a wooden wall, then before laying insulation, you should attach a vapor barrier film to the entire surface of the walls.
Next, insulation mats are laid between the sheathing bars. If necessary, they are secured to the wall with mushroom anchors.

Having installed the insulating layer, they stretch it on top superdiffusion membrane, securing it to the sheathing bars with construction staples stapler.
Next, you can install decorative cladding material.

Another option for installing the sheathing is done slightly differently.

Markings are also made on the wall and hangers are fixed along it at a distance of 40-60 cm from each other. Their edge holders should protrude from the wall to the thickness of the insulation and wooden blocks that will be attached to them.

These elements will be fastening not only for the bars, but also for the installed insulation.
Insulation mats are marked and cut in those places where they will be placed on metal elements.
Then the insulation is mounted on the wall, and a diffuse membrane is stretched and secured on top of it.
Next, bars are installed in the hangers wooden sheathing, press the insulation tightly against the wall and secure them in metal holders with self-tapping screws.
Decorative sheathing material is also installed on top of this system, using the installed sheathing bars as guides.

Types of decorative cladding

Modern materials make it possible to create an imitation of brickwork on a wooden wall, or vice versa - to transform a brick house into wooden frame. For this purpose, claddings such as siding made from different materials, wooden lining, block house, thermal panels, ceramic or stone tiles and others. It is necessary to find out in advance how each of the skins is attached and what it looks like in the end - this will largely determine which insulation system to choose for it.

Clinker thermal panels

Clinker thermal panels are one of the modern materials for insulation and decoration of facades.

They have appeared on the construction market relatively recently, and have already gained wide popularity. This is not at all surprising, since they have many positive qualities.

One of the main advantages is that this material performs two functions at once: insulation and decorative cladding.
The panels perfectly imitate brickwork, and are produced in a variety of colors, so they can be matched to any style and taste.
They give the surface absolute neatness and aesthetics.
This type of cladding is convenient and relatively easy to install on the wall.
Thermal panels can be used to cover any surface - wood or brick.
The light weight of the panels makes it possible to do without additional strengthening of the foundation of the old building.
Since the materials have a low percentage of water absorption, the façade can be washed from sludge with water under high pressure.
The tightness of the panels on the wall does not allow cold air to penetrate to the wall of the house.

Thermal panels have a polyurethane foam or polystyrene foam base onto which clinker tiles are pressed. The warm substrate increases the thermal insulation qualities of the panels by two to four times, and creates an optimal vapor permeable microclimate for the walls, which allows you to preserve the material from which the house is built for more long term.

The structure of the panels is a layer of insulation and decorative tiles “like brick”

Clinker tiles protect the insulation base from external factors such as wind, precipitation, and direct solar ultraviolet rays.
Clinker panels are very securely attached to the wall and can last without repair work 45-60 years without losing its original appearance.
The panels are assembled into a single plane using existing locking joints (tongues and grooves), which ensures tight adhesion.

Straight, wall thermal panels and corner elements for them are produced, which facilitate the task of decorating the corners of the building, making them absolutely neat, no different from general view walls

Thermal panels are reinforced with plastic guides that prevent deformation and mechanical stress facing material.

Installation of thermal panels

Before you begin installing the panels on the wall, it is necessary to inspect it for various bulges, significant depressions and chips, which can greatly affect the quick installation. Therefore, it is necessary to bring the surface of the walls to a perfectly smooth state.

When installing panels on surfaces that have large unevenness, such as walls log house, a lathing made of wooden beams is installed on them.

In this case, it is very important to correctly calculate the location of the sheathing elements so that the fastening of the panels is successful. Each of the panels to be fixed must have at least three sheathing bars to create the necessary rigidity of the sheathing.

The diagram clearly shows the places of fastening to the wall or sheathing and the dimensions of the panel itself and the protruding locking ridges.

After the wall surface is completely covered, the seams between the individual tiles are filled with a special grout. This completely isolates the insulation from external influences and gives the wall design the appearance of natural brickwork.

Video: facing a house with clinker thermal panels

Covering a house with siding

Another fairly popular way to transform a facade is. It is produced in various types, imitating wooden and stone wall coverings.

It is made from different materials using two technological processes- monoextrusion or coextrusion. The first of them is the molding of siding panels from a homogeneous mass, and second - manufacturing two-layer elements. The top layer of material is protective from external influences, and the bottom layer is the basis of the panel.

Truly high-quality siding has a whole range of advantages:

It is resistant to mechanical stress such as impacts and scratches, while at the same time having good elasticity.
The material is fire-safe and resistant to thermal extremes. High performance material allow it to be used in various climatic conditions.
Siding is not susceptible to the formation of colonies of microorganisms or damage by insects.
On quality material UV rays do not have a serious impact, so it does not lose its original appearance for many years. The service life of siding is about ten years.
The panels provide reliable protection for the building walls from wind and precipitation.
The material does not require special care and can be easily tidied up with a stream of water under strong pressure. The surface itself does not absorb dirt.
Siding sp is special to give any facade an aesthetic appearance. Numerous shades and the possibility of combining them open up great possibilities for design solutions.
The material is non-toxic and therefore harmless to human health.
In addition, compared to other materials, siding is quite easy to install and affordable.

Types of facade siding
Saydi ng For cladding facades, they are made from vinyl, aluminum, thin steel, cement-cellulose mass and based on wood raw materials.
Aluminum and steel siding is mainly used in industrial facilities, but is also used for finishing private homes. The material is produced in a variety of colors, so it will perfectly decorate any facade of the house.

The facing material from wood fibers and their connecting components is made by pressing raw materials under high pressure, and then covered with protective paints. This siding is also well suited for cladding the facades of private houses.

Fiber cement siding - great for covering plinths
A cement-cellulose version of the cladding material is most often used for cladding the basement sections of a building.

The most common one is vinyl siding
The most popular and affordable is vinyl siding. It is widely used for finishing private buildings, and it justifies itself with a long-term operational period and other positive qualities. Since this material is purchased and used more often than others, it is worth considering in more detail.

Vinyl siding
This type of siding is produced in the form of stacked panels-strips that have a perforated edge through which they are attached using nails or self-tapping screws. In addition, the strips have a latch lock for connecting adjacent panels to each other.
The material is available in the form of one, two or three “boards”, which simplifies and speeds up the installation of siding on the wall.
The pattern of the siding can also be different. Often this is the usual “lining”, but other types are rapidly gaining popularity, for example, “ship plank” or “herringbone”. The surface of the material can imitate the texture and color scheme different materials. Panels can be mounted horizontally or vertical position, but for everything to go well, you need to foresee the location of the sheathing bars in advance.
At the production stage, vinyl siding is often coated with paint containing titanium dioxide, which keeps the surface in its original condition for many years and gives any color a pastel softness. At the same time, you need to know that bright shades of the material indicate the absence of this component, so such coatings lose their original color much faster.
Installation of siding panels
Installation work for installing siding horizontally begins from the bottom of the house. Adjacent panels are overlapped and secured with a lock. The panel is secured to the sheathing with nails along the top, through special holes.
When installing, you should strive to minimize the number of vertical joints. If the dimensions of the wall do not allow this (longer standard sizes panels), use a special joining profile, installing it strictly vertically from the bottom to the top of the wall.
During the installation of siding on the walls, additional decorative elements are installed, which will give the facade completeness - external and internal corners, soffits, ebbs, window and door slopes, etc.
Video: installation of facade siding
Block house
The block house is made of natural wood and is a board with a semicircular surface. A house sheathed with this material imitates a log house.
On the flat side of the block house board there are two longitudinal groove, which are designed to relieve stress from the load and improve ventilation. In addition, for convenient installation, there is a groove on the lower edge of the panel, and a tenon on the upper edge.
Block house panels are available in several standard sizes - from 3 to 6 m in length, from 20 to 45 mm thick and from 99 to 220 mm wide.
For the manufacture of this cladding material, they are mainly used conifers, such as pine, spruce, larch. With proper processing and quality raw materials, this wood will serve for many years as facade cladding. Wood is naturally endowed with excellent qualities, which man has skillfully used to build and decorate housing.
What are the main advantages of this facade material:
— ecological cleanliness, characteristic natural wood;
- lightness and strength;
- resistance to high and low temperatures;
— ease of installation;
- the ability to “breathe” - this creates a special comfortable microclimate in the house;
- affordable price compared to solid logs.
The material is easily attached to the sheathing of the insulation system and is perfect for finishing not only facades, but also interior walls.
Installation of a block house
The first thing that needs to be done is to adapt the wood to the conditions in which it will be attached to the facade. To do this, the panels of the block house are laid out on a prepared base, for example, spread polyethylene, and left for a day.
Each panel should then be completely covered with the first layer of antiseptic.
After it dries, as a rule, all the flaws of the material appear, such as roughness and unevenness. They must be removed using sandpaper.
A second layer of antiseptic must be applied to the leveled surface. There are similar products on sale that already contain dyes - they will help protect the wood from exposure to ultraviolet rays. If such processing of the material is used, then it no longer needs further painting or varnishing.
The block house is attached to the sheathing, starting from the bottom of the house wall. The first panel is laid with the tongue facing upward - this is done to prevent water from getting into the groove of the panel during precipitation.

In places where you have to screw the board right through, the self-tapping screw should be recessed and disguised. As a composition for covering such holes, you can use wood glue mixed with fine sawdust. You can close the hole with a dowel, the cut of which is leveled and tinted to match the color of the panel.
Installation continues using the tongue-and-groove system along the entire plane of the wall. The material is secured with self-tapping screws to the sheathing.

At the corners, the panels are joined through installed corner boards or through a cut at an angle of 45 degrees.
If it is necessary to lengthen the panel, two of its segments are connected with a block of the same width as the boards themselves. It is secured with reverse side, and then seal the joint with the mentioned mixture of glue and sawdust.

Video: cladding the facade with a block house
It should be noted that, in addition, a metal and vinyl block house is produced, which imitates the shape, texture and color natural wood. Its cost is usually lower than that of panels made from natural quality wood. Artificial material will last a long time and will also decorate the facade well, but it still cannot replace the warmth and beauty of the texture of natural wood.
There are other materials for cladding the walls of a private house - it is simply impossible to talk about them all in one article. Follow the publications of our portal - each type of facade finishing will definitely be given special attention.

How to properly close the corners of a log house when insulating the log house in a bowl or in a paw? Improper execution of this stage of work will lead to a lack of living comfort (drafts, heat loss, dampness, etc.).

The process is carried out immediately after the log house is ready or at the time of construction. The “bowl” type retains heat better compared to the “claw” type, which is more susceptible to cold and dampness.

Features of closing and insulating corners for different types of felling

The choice of material for insulating corners chopped into a bowl depends on the type of wood used in construction. To seal timber structures, the following are used: natural moss, jute fabric, flax batting, etc. It is important to use the same material that is laid on the crowns. You should not use different insulation materials, so as not to cause defects due to the difference in the thickness of the sealant. logs (untreated or rounded) must be insulated with jute or linen rope, the twisted structure of which will ensure complete elimination of cracks.

Constructing a log house using the “bowl” method is a labor-intensive process that requires more building material than the “in the paw” option. The Canadian type is now popular, characterized by the presence of a fat-tail protrusion in the recess and a trapezoidal shape. During the shrinkage process, the logs form super-strong joints with the insulation. As a result, the penetration of cold and drafts into the room is completely eliminated. This construction option is much more expensive than a simple (rounded) bowl.
Log houses with crowns in a bowl or Russian corner are not covered external finishing, in the end zone the wood breathes and therefore lasts longer. To seal, use caulking of the corners with a rope, which is pushed into the gaps using special tools. The material is hammered in using a mallet, which is used to hit the caulking blade. While working you need to pay attention special attention joints of corners with ceiling and floor. Especially below, where sources of dampness are located. If a wild log house is being built, it must also be caulked.

Insulation of a log house in the paw

Log cuts that form a paw lock or a German corner are more susceptible to rapid rotting and environmental influences. Therefore, it is more difficult to properly insulate corners.
1. The process should be carried out more carefully than for the bowl.
2. The cracks are sealed at the time of construction of the log house, the corners are sealed more tightly.
3. For a beginner, it is better to assemble crowns using a stencil to draw each end of a beam or log.
4. An incorrectly supplied element is immediately replaced.
To insulate the log house, jute fabric, folded several times, is used in the paw. Birds love to take away the tow, and the moss turns into dust over time. Features of closing and insulating corners when different types felling depends on the work area: inside or outside. During construction capital house It is mandatory to use these two options. TO external elements you need to be more careful.

Layered insulation is used if the log house is intended for exterior finishing. Caulk and sealant are a universal combination, most suitable for rounded logs.

Insulation for external cladding

In modern construction, an interesting method of insulating a log or timber frame is used if the external cladding of the building is planned. You need to cover the corner with a foil membrane or secure it with a furniture stapler.
When externally insulating the outer surface of a house, before finishing with siding, the following is used:
1. Basalt insulation.
2. Foamed polyethylene.
3. Fiberglass materials.
4. Foam plastic.
5. Extruded polystyrene foam.
Non-flammable insulation and metal siding raise fire safety wooden house. Before the outer cladding, sheathing, insulation and a hydro-windproof membrane are attached to the surface of the log house. This layer-by-layer structure is called a thermal insulation cake.

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Finishing the internal corners of the log house

Grinding the corners of the frame outside and inside is always carried out before starting other work in order to prevent freezing of the wood, interaction with moisture and rotting. During the treatment, the remaining bark is removed and the cracks are filled. The equipment used is a machine with petal attachments and a grinder. The process begins from the edges, moving towards the joints. Needed individual means protection due to large quantity dust. After completing the work, the log house is left for a day to dry.
A simple way to finish the internal corners of a log house is to install a pair of vertical edged polished boards. They must be tightly closed to avoid a gap, resulting in an even vertical angle. Less commonly, the board is installed at an angle of 45° to each wall. Internal surfaces are treated in different ways, for example, lining, plastering, plasterboard. Used as insulation mineral wool, polystyrene foam, isoplat (pressed flax fiber).

What happens if you don't close the corners

If you ignore the stage of insulating the corners of the log house, in addition to the lack of comfort during your stay, there is guaranteed to be a distortion of the shape of the structure, which will become askew over time, dampness and elements of rotting wood will appear. What happens if you don't close the corners from the outside? External insulation allows you to more effectively maintain comfort in the house compared to internal insulation, and therefore is more important. If you cut a corner of logs or beams without sufficient experience, then there is a high probability of defects appearing after construction, in particular large gaps during shrinkage. The situation is corrected with the help of wedges. They are cut from the same type of wood as the log house.
Mistakes when sealing corners will also lead to serious problems. For external insulation, you cannot use polyurethane foam, which will accumulate moisture over time and cause dampness in the wood. When choosing sealants, you should not use silicone or acrylic types due to the high likelihood of peeling or cracking. You should pay close attention to the internal and especially external corners, since they become the paths for cold penetration if the insulation is improper.

What the appearance of a wooden house will be, first of all, depends on its decoration. Many owners of wooden buildings prefer to sheathe the house with a variety of finishing materials, which simultaneously decorate, insulate and protect wooden walls from unfavorable factors. However, the cladding of a log house has some difficulties, the reason for which is the corner joints of the log house. The corners interfere with the installation of the sheathing, without which it is impossible to frame the house. Finishing the corners of a wooden house outside and inside the room causes the greatest difficulty when carrying out finishing works. How to properly finish corner joints, and how to sheathe corners without damaging wooden structure? We will talk about this in the article.

The finishing of the corners of the log house, as well as the entire house, begins after the initial shrinkage process, about a year after construction.

Directly finishing the corners inside and outside a wooden house can be done after performing the following work:

grinding;
protective treatment;
insulation.

Grinding

If in the future it is planned to cover the outside of a house made of timber with clapboard, siding or other material, you can adopt the following insulation method: the corner is completely covered with foil, the shiny side out, the foil can also be secured with a furniture stapler.

The view at the corners is not very presentable, but this does not matter, because the top of the house will be covered decorative cladding, which will completely hide the insulation.

Other possible options insulation of external corners:

basalt insulation;
fiberglass;
polystyrene foam;
foamed polyethylene.

External corners cannot be insulated using polyurethane foam, which accumulates moisture and contributes to dampening of the wood.

Features of finishing external corners

Regardless of what kind of lumber, timber or logs the house is made of, there are two main ways to connect corners:

“into the bowl”, after the junction there is a certain piece of log;
“in the paw”, beams or logs are cut without leaving any residue.

When using this method of cutting corners, a very beautiful form of connection is obtained, which can be decorated in an original way, for example, painted different elements logs in contrasting colors.

With a corner connection without any residue, insulation becomes of particular importance, since in this option, the corner remains without protection and in the absence good insulation lets in the cold.

Typically, this method of cutting a log house is used if the cladding of the log house is planned in the future. Closed corners, chopped without residue, become warmer and more airtight.

However, if you cladding a log house that has not undergone complete shrinkage, the cladding may become deformed. At the same time, corners should not be left open for a long time. The ends of logs can crack under the influence of precipitation and sunlight.

You can cover the pre-caulked corners with a regular board. If you fix the board rigidly, then when the log house settles, the logs may hang and cracks may appear. To avoid this, it is necessary to make a vertical slot 2 cm long in the board and, when screwing it to the corner joint, screw the self-tapping screw into the very top point slots.

A board nailed in this way will not interfere with the natural shrinkage of the house. If over time the length of the slot turns out to be insufficient, you can unscrew the screw and screw it again to the top point.

After the shrinkage processes are completed, the corners can be sheathed with clapboard or siding. Cladding corner joints chopped into a paw does not cause any particular difficulty, since the corner is cut without leaving any residue, it will not interfere with making the sheathing in the usual way.

In another way, this angle is called “warm”, and this is no coincidence. With this type of cutting, the corners allow less cold to pass through, making the house warmer. But from the outside of the building, the logs protrude outward; often the ends are of unequal length, which does not allow the frame to be installed correctly. The question arises: how to sheathe the corners of a log house in this case?

In some sources you can find advice: gradually cut down the protruding structural elements, and fasten them with staples to strengthen them. However, as a result of sawing off the ends, which are elements load-bearing structure and give strength to the house, the building may lose stability and weaken.

If pins were not installed during construction, then for a weakened structure, even the slightest effort is fraught with destruction. Therefore, you should think carefully before making such a decision.

The cladding of a log house must be done in such a way as to keep all corners intact. When installing the sheathing, it is necessary that the distance from the wall of the house corresponds to the length of the protruding elements.

If the ends have different lengths, they are filed so that they form a straight line. It is quite possible that in this case the frame will recede greatly from the wall, then the dimensions will have to be equalized using thick bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm.

You can use alternative option, which involves mounting the frame separately for the wall and separately for the corner. In this case, the corner frame is an independent structural element and is made in four planes. The presence of additional corner elements will increase the consumption of material, but in its finished form such a structure looks very impressive.

Finishing the internal, as well as external corners of the log house, begins with the obligatory grinding and caulking of the joints. Often, especially if the corners are cut “into a bowl,” they look very beautiful, and you don’t want to hide them under the trim, but on the contrary, you want to emphasize their beauty.

To highlight the smooth outlines of the lines, it is enough to place a jute or linen rope on top of the caulk. Internal corners connected in a claw fashion do not look as impressive, but they can also be beautifully decorated with decorative rope. For the same purpose, you can use contrasting paints, covering the joints and ends of the logs with them.

If there are wide gaps at the corner joints of the logs that are unlikely to be closed with rope, you can decorate the corner using two edged polished boards. They need to be tightly connected to each other so that there are no gaps and an even vertical angle is obtained.

You can also close gusset using one board installed vertically at an angle of 45 degrees to both walls. But such finishing is used much less frequently.

Regarding finishing of internal corners timber house, then it is not particularly difficult. A house made of timber has flat walls with even corners, which can be sheathed with any material: clapboard, block house, imitation timber.

The corner connections of a log house are the most difficult areas and always cause difficulties when processed by non-professional craftsmen. Not only the appearance of the house, but also how comfortable its residents will feel depends on the quality of their finishing.

If you want your wooden house to be warm, cozy and beautiful, entrust its finishing to the Master Srubov company. There are no impossible tasks for our specialists; we can easily cope with the most complex finishing and implement any interior solutions.

Our company employs not only experienced craftsmen, but also qualified designers who will offer you various design options for decorating your home.

You can contact us by phone or send us a message. You will find all our coordinates in the section.

Calculate the cost of painting and insulating your home right now

Finishing siding on a log house: features, recommendations and our experience

If you are the (hopefully) happy owner of a log home, then you know that these homes are special, and when protecting such a home from the weather with “vinyl armor,” this must be taken into account.

In this article we will look at what are the main differences between siding a house made of round timber, and what you should pay attention to.

Why decorate a log house with siding?

A wooden house, in addition to its undeniable advantages, has a number of disadvantages.

It's cold in the house

A log house, like a log house, is made up of “crowns” - horizontally stacked tree trunks (logs or beams).

Because of this, the thickness of the wall is uneven: in the middle of the crown it is maximum, in the place where the crowns are connected to each other (between the logs) it is minimal.

Heat is like water: it flows where there is the least resistance. Therefore, the thermal conductivity of the wall is determined by the thermal conductivity of the “coldest” section.

In a house made of logs, there are exactly the same number of such areas as the number of crowns that make up the wall. The thicker the log, the fewer crowns. The thinner the more.

If we take the most common thickness of a log house log (25 cm), it turns out that a wall 2.5 m high will consist of 14 crowns (including a bowl in each crown).

Even if your log house was made by masters of their craft, it is still impossible to achieve perfect contact between the crowns. To reduce heat loss in the cracks between the logs, the house is insulated with inter-crown insulation and the cracks that formed during the shrinkage of the house are caulked.

But, whatever one may say, it is impossible to completely solve the problem of cracks. That's why log house, like timber, lose heat much more than, for example, frame.

If a house loses heat, then it must be insulated, otherwise it will only be warm inside in the summer. And the simplest and effective way to insulate a log wall means installing insulation on the outside and covering it with siding.

The house has "lost its appearance"

Log - very beautiful material. Of course, there will be people who disagree with this, but there are fewer of them than who agree.

A new and fresh log house looks great: golden-yellow trunks, natural wood pattern pleasing to the eye.

But if the house has stood for 20-30 years, then its appearance is no longer so pleasing: somewhere it has turned black, somewhere it has turned green, somewhere dust has eaten into the wood.

When a tree is alive, it is covered with bark, and its vital forces help fight external influences. But when it is cut down and “stripped”, it becomes defenseless to the changing seasons, rain, sun and dust.

Therefore, the old log house no longer looks so festive and pleasant, and is not pleasing to the eye. I want to cover it with something.

Once again, vinyl siding comes to your aid and solves this problem quickly and easily.

Exterior cladding increases the lifespan of a home

A tree deprived of natural protection quickly becomes unusable. And if you want your log house to last you longer, you will have to help it.

In order to increase the service life of a log house, you need to take care of it: treat it with special compounds on the outside, caulk the cracks, and immediately remove fungus and mold.

It's not the most enjoyable job, and it takes time and effort.

Another option is to encase your home in “vinyl armor,” which will protect it from the elements and UV rays.

The main advantage of such protection is that you don’t have to take care of it: just trim it and forget it.

In addition, if the cladding is professionally installed, it will provide everything necessary conditions: protection from external influences and proper ventilation outer surface.

This will make your home last longer.

Why do some people think that a log house cannot be sheathed with siding?

Among amateurs wooden houses, as well as log house builders, there is a widespread opinion that a log house cannot be sheathed with siding.

They usually say that “the log under the siding does not breathe, so it rots.”

And this is true if the people who install the siding do not understand the technology.

Properly installed siding provides all the necessary ventilation for any house: log, timber, aerated concrete or frame.

In order for the house to “breathe”, it is necessary to observe technology: order and correct fastening membranes and insulation, as well as a ventilated gap under the siding.

From our experience working with vinyl panels since 2009, we can responsibly declare: a log house properly covered with siding does not rot and lasts longer.

What is the main difference between the walls of a log house when finishing with siding?

The surface of the log house is uneven. Of course, if your house is not built from a gun carriage, hewn on both sides. But then it will be more suitable for you, because the walls made of carriages behave like a timber house when installing siding.

The surface of "round timber" is entirely made up of waves, and this distinguishes it from other materials. It is more difficult to attach insulation and membranes to it than to a flat surface.

There are no more differences. Everything is the same: films, frame, panels and accessories.

Features of installing siding on log walls

Due to the unevenness of the wall, there are a number of features for installing the frame and insulation if the walls of your house are insulated.

Let's look at the most basic features so you know what to look for when you order siding for your home.

Installation of the frame on a log wall

Due to the wavy surface of the wall, installing the frame on which the vinyl panels will be attached becomes more difficult.

The logs in the crowns of your log house can be of different thicknesses or have convex and concave areas in the most unexpected places. This leads to the fact that the frame has to be aligned with the most “protruding” crown.

As a result, it may happen that one log in the middle of the wall will become a supporting one and will determine the passage of all the sheathing posts.

If the house is insulated, this is not so noticeable, because the insulation will partially hide the unevenness of the facade.

The next factor that complicates the alignment of walls is the presence of log outcrops (they are also remnants, they are also corners).

If in the case, for example, frame house, we first set the corners, and then align all the other frame posts with the corners, but here we simply do not have outer corners due to the protruding ends of the logs.

The only way to level a wall in a vertical plane is to align the outer boards on the wall, secure them and push off from them as a base.

Bypassing siding of log outcrops (corners, remnants)

Another difficulty with the cladding of a log house lies in these very remnants of logs: in order to make a warm corner with a strong lock, the logs are adjusted to each other in a special way.

There are about 30 forms and names of these castles, and we are not so well versed in log construction to consider them all. And there are construction methods in which there are no corners:

But most castles have one obvious property in common: when the logs are placed one on top of the other, cross-shaped joints are formed at the corners of the house, which cannot be sawed off to level the facade.

Such angles complicate siding and lead to higher prices for materials and work.

To get around the corners of a log house when installing siding, we use three methods.

Method number 1. Box on the corners

With this method, we make a box in which the takeout is completely hidden.

In this case we use:

external on the side of the wall;
external on the corner of the box.

It turns out that for such a walk we will need three external and two internal corners on each corner of the house.

Many customers do not like this method, because the house becomes bulky in appearance.

Method No. 2. Walking along the surface of the log

In this case, we go around all the outlets, as if covering them with siding from the outside.

For one corner we need:

internal angle between the wall and the extension;
external from the wall side;
external from the corner side;
internal between perpendicular extensions;
external on the second extension from the corner side;
external from the side of the second wall;
internal between the second extension and the second wall.

This bypass method is the most material-intensive, but it has its advantages.

For example, a house sheathed in this way retains an appearance close to the original: the cross-shaped corners are preserved.

In addition, this covering allows you to make the stems less bulky and conspicuous.

Method number 3. Preserving raw corners

In some cases, customers ask to preserve the stem without covering it with siding.

We approach the corner along the wall and finish the siding with J-profile. The stems are left as they were, and the customer usually paints them in a color that matches the color of the panels or roofing.

The disadvantage of this approach is that the corners of the log house continue to be exposed to the environment, and they are not protected by vinyl.

Another disadvantage is that the corner remains cold, and if the walls are insulated, then heat will flow away there.

But from the point of view of material consumption, this method is the most economical.

Method number 4. Sheathing "flat"

If the ends of the logs do not stick out very much, then sometimes they can be hidden with a frame so that from the outside it will not be clear whether there were corners or not.

In this case, after the cladding, the house looks as usual: no boxes or leftovers.

Insulation of a log house under siding

If a log house is insulated during finishing, then the “pie” of this insulation is no different from the standard “pie” that we use on other houses.

First, the log house is covered with a vapor barrier, and it is mounted closely, enveloping each crown.

Then hangers are mounted on the vapor barrier, on which the frame will be attached.

After this, insulation is placed on the hangers, which is then pressed against the first layer of the frame.

In some cases, the customer believes that without a vapor barrier the house will “breathe” better. People who read construction forums, where users varying degrees advancement share tips.

We have nothing against sharing construction experience, but we ask you to take into account that anyone can write an intelligent and confident post on the forum: a professional with 20 years of experience, or just a person who does not understand anything about construction , but likes to give advice.

And you won't be able to distinguish one from the other. So be careful and listen to those who are responsible for their recommendations with money.

In addition to insulating walls, remember that heat leaks through corners and openings: windows and doors. And, of course, through the roof or ceiling in a cold attic.

So, even insulated walls do not always guarantee that the house will become warmer. Heat is like water, it flows away where there is less resistance, remember?

And if you decide to insulate a log house under the siding, approach this task comprehensively. Better yet, turn to professionals.

That's all.

June 13, 2017
Specialization: facade finishing, interior finishing, construction of summer houses, garages. Experience of an amateur gardener and gardener. We also have experience in repairing cars and motorcycles. Hobbies: playing the guitar and many other things that I don’t have time for :)

How to finish the corners of the walls so that they turn out smooth, durable and beautiful? Previously, I was often interested in this question, but now, having gained experience, I myself will tell you how corners are finished - external corners inside and outside the building. I am sure that this information will help beginners cope with the task.

Finish options

The difficulty of finishing corners lies not only in the fact that they must be even. The fact is that these sections of the walls are often subject to shock loads, so it is necessary to provide them with sufficient strength.

Currently, there are several ways to solve this problem. The choice of method depends on the type of wall decoration, which can be as follows:

Option 1: plastered or plasterboard walls

If the walls are plastered or covered with plasterboard, then special plaster corners are usually used to finish the corners. They come in two types:

Aluminum perforated. Used for finishing flat areas;

Arched. Made of plastic. Their main feature is increased flexibility, which allows them to be used for finishing curved surfaces;

The corners are glued with plaster or putty at the stage of rough finishing of the walls. During their installation, be sure to use a level. This allows you to install them strictly vertically or horizontally.

It must be said that this solution applies both to interior walls, and for facades. But, most importantly, this finishing of the outer corners of the house allows not only to level them, but also to protect them from mechanical damage.

Price:

Please note that all prices are current as of Spring 2017.

Option 2: finished with PVC clapboard

IN lately PVC (polyvinyl chloride) lining, which is simply called plastic panels, is very popular. Most often this material is used in the following rooms:

Bathrooms;
Kitchens;
Hallways.

If the walls are finished with plastic, the corners can be decorated in the following ways:

Using profiles. This is the simplest method, the essence of which is to use corner profiles. They are installed on the lathing using a level, just like plaster corners.

As a rule, profiles are fixed to the sheathing using a stapler. Then the panels are simply inserted into special grooves;

By bending the panels. To bend plastic panel with your own hands, you need to cut its inner side along the fold line. It is even advisable to cut a thin strip, as shown in the photo diagram above.

Before bending, it is advisable to heat the front side, for example, using a hairdryer.

Price. The price of guides for PVC panels starts from 25-30 rubles per 3 m (standard length).

Option 3: finished with wooden paneling

Not so long ago, when finishing walls with clapboards, the boards for corner joints were cut and adjusted. At the same time, the remaining cracks were filled with putty. Nowadays, you can purchase a special wooden corner to decorate corners.

You can secure it to the lining using window nails. The only thing is that it is advisable to bite off the nail heads so that they are invisible.

It must be said that in this way you can finish not only external, but also internal corner joints.

Price. Price wooden corners on average is about 50 rubles per linear meter.

Option 4: facade finished with siding

Many beginners are interested in how to decorate the corners of the house on the facade? As I said above, perforated plaster corners can be used for wet facades.

If the facade is sheathed with siding or other facade panels, you should use special additional elements, which are usually sold complete with panels.

Such corners perform several functions at once:

Provide fixation of panels;
Design the joint of the panels;
Protect the ends of the panels from mechanical loads;
Serve as guides for siding.

In fact, installing siding corners is similar to installing guides for PVC lining. They are also mounted on the sheathing, but not with a stapler, but with self-tapping screws. In this case, a level must be used.

Option 5: wooden walls

At first glance, there is no need to decorate the corners of a wooden house from the outside, since they themselves look quite attractive and are quite durable. However, not everyone knows that the ends of lumber are the areas that are least resistant to moisture and rot.

To protect them, special sealants and impregnations are used for the corners of a wooden house.

Price. Below are the most popular formulations and their costs:

You can use compounds for the ends of lumber not only outside, but also inside a wooden house.

Option 6: wallpapered or finished with liquid materials

Above, I have already talked about the rough method of finishing plastered walls. Finally, let's look at how it's done decorative finishing such walls.

So, there are two most common ways to solve this problem:

Decorative overlays. Finishing external corners in an apartment involves PVC installation or polyurethane corners.

These products can be made to look like wood or even look like an expensive baguette. The latter are usually made of polyurethane. They look rich and are used in classic interiors;

Decorative stone. In this case, the corners are covered decorative stone, which can be made of plaster, cement or even natural stone.

It must be said that this method can be used not only for interior walls, but also for the facade.

The instructions for installing decorative corners require removing the finishing coating in the area where they adjoin the wall. This is especially true for heavy polyurethane linings.

Price. Below is the cost of some materials for decorating corners:

Conclusion

Now you know what methods and materials are used to decorate the corners of a house outside and inside. Additionally, watch the video in this article. If you have any questions on this topic, you can contact me in the comments.